Will buy one today, putting new chain on this week. After 35 yrs of using grinder to cut chain, pressing link with skinny vise grips to set link, using two 3lb hammers on each side to smash the rivets, I think it's time I graduate to one of these!
Great tool! If one has a digital caliper, a good way to know if you've got the plates pressed to the correct point is to measure across the width of a few "factory" staked links. When the pressed master link is in the correct position, its width should be the same.
Yes that is a great way to measure the rivet for sure. That said you won't find these in many tool boxes. If you have the caliper then use it, if not you can still get the job done with a little patience. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgear I think this is a very important bit of information and worth editing the video to include it . A master link is the most important part of installing a chain properly ,and, riveting it on improperly could cost someone there life . imaging pulling out with safe distance in front of a semi and your chain falls off and you get smoked . I came to this video to make sure I was doing it properly this comment By Kenneth Mitchell is worth re editing the video.
Excellent tutorial. I followed this and nailed it the first time. And it's a really well engineered and well built tool. I highly recommend it. No more clip type master links for me!
Thanks Van. I was using my tool the wrong way when trying to press the plates together. I was doing it separate at each rivet instead of the middle. Instructions are kind of shit. You do a much better job explaining. Thank you.
I used to break and link chains back in the 70s at the age of 15 by only using a hammer, a nut and a pin, total cost near nil! To cut the chain to the right length it's easy just put side to side the old chain with the new one and you have the right size. Use a chain link because it's MUCH MUCH more convenient when you want to remove the chain, I do this way so I leave it overnight in oil the I leave it drop the oil and I put the chain back, no expensive toll needed!
I would not recommend doing this on a high horsepower bike. You need to use a proper rivet and tool to peen the rivet to ensure it will not fail. - Van
Just ordered this tool, two master links, my chain and new sprockets from you guys last week and am waiting on it to come in. You guys make the greatest how to videos I've ever seen! Thank you so much. I'm very mechanical and do all my own work but this will be my first chain and sprocket replacement.
@@sportbiketrackgear I’d have to agree with you on this statement. It is simple to use, had a good instruction pamphlet in colour without the obligatory hard to understand Chinese translated to Swahili then back to English instructions lol. I say good job making this tool. Works like they should.
I like this video. I think a good way to reduce the trial and error adjustments in pressing the outer plate would be to use vernier calipers and measure the width of an existing link on the chain. Assuming the rivet link is the same spec. of coarse.
some chains come with a spacer for this. I saved mine. when it comes to spreading the end of the pins this is where the DID chain tool is genius. you can't over do it. you just tighten it until it touches and you will have a perfectly flared pin to exact specs
@@blue03r6 what Garber is saying is not flaring the rivets but pressing the plate. That's what I do Bob. Use a caliper and a lot of times plates will all be a little different but if you measure the width of multiple existing plates you will get a good measurement for the plate your pressing. I could never do it by eye. Then it affects your rivet etc.
"BIG TIP" when riveting the link and you put the fitting on with the ball bearing, wind down the inside pin on the tool until it touches the back of the ball bearing adapter - IF YOU DONT DO THIS IT WILL JUST PUSH THE BALL BEARING INTO THE ADAPTER.
I wish I read this before doing my ZX10 chain, I had that exact thing happen. Had the center pin backed off 3 - 4mm, lined up and started winding the outer screw then heard a nasty crunchy sound as the magnet behind the ball pushed through the back of the adapter and met its demise against the center pin :(. Now trying to find where to get a new adapter piece from in Australia
FAULTY PART UPGRADE: the original PBR Rivet Tip (for hollow pin connectors) was a chrome ball pressed into the rivet tip head - they generally failed after the first use because it just pushed into the head and broke the rear magnet. The new "PBR Hollow Nose Rivet Tip" is one molded piece still with a magnet at the rear, so if you have broken one upgrade it with Motion Pro Part No: C080470L
Hi Van, I'm happy you haven't had a problem with your rivet head because it looks like you have one with chrome ball which means not all of them were faulty. Anyway I'm just letting people know Motion Pro admit there was a problem with the original rivet head and have fixed the problem. Motion Pro make excellent tools and the PBR tool is great so if you are unlucky enough to have a problem just replace the rivet head. 👍
If you use the master link to connect the old chain with the new, you can put the bike in neutral and use the old chain to pull the new chain over the sprockets.
Hey! Van, I just ordered my pro chain pbr tool on the STG web-site...Thanks so much for your video's on the subjects that cover my 400 cc 2019 Ninja...you da man Van...oh! and not to forget to plug for the camera man who has been doing a great job on the vid's...you should make sure he gets a raise in pay...
I just ordered this tool for my new chain after watching your video on how to use it. You do a great job with step-by-step instructions and explanations on how to use the tool. Thanks for the videos and ride safe!
I just received mine today and put it to use. It's great! One thing though: the main bolt (MP calls it the body bolt), HOLY SHIT was it in there tight when I first went to use it! I had to screw the handle in, put it on the floor with the handle facing the same direction I was turning it in, stand on it, then press down with all my weight to get it broken loose with the longest 17 mm wrench I have. So if you have the same problem, give that a shot to break it loose.
Great vid! Have you ever had to redo the master link after cracking a rivet? That's where I am finding myself now. My plan was to just use the extractor pin directly on the master link pins coming from the side that I was riveting. Not sure if I would need to file them in that case. Also what lubricant are you using on the tool?
Daniel Walsh Thanks for watching! I have ruined many rivet links in my time. Really the only way is to break the rivet link and start over with a new one. I usually use a lithium grease, either a spray on or other, which ever I have around.
do you like this tool over a DID chain tool? I like how the DID chain tool flares the pins. there is no guess work or need to measure them when done. if you tighten it down until it touches the side plate the flare will be in exact specs of any chain I've seen.
Thanks for the instruction and making my first chain replacement on the BMW G650GS a breeze. Your instruction gave me the confidence to know I was doing it right! Thanks a ton!
Thanks for the demonstration. The pins on my other chain tool twisted into a spiral. This looks like a far better tool! I'll definitely have to pick one up over the winter.
I love the Motion Pro line up of tools, the only downside I had with this specific tool is that the pushing rod for the Breaking portion, snapped, even though I followed every instruction to the tee, and exactly has you showed and it said in the instructions. So I gotta get another one of those push rods for breaking the chain, which I’m actually gonna order a couple of them just to have
I have the same chain breaker I haven't gotten a chance to put my chain on yet my question is so you press one at a time or both at the same time time awesome video sir
The Maxima Speedwax works good on the bodywork. For the other surfaces I use Formula 409 and maybe a little Maxima Suspension Clean. www.sportbiketrackgear.com/maxima-suspension-clean/ www.sportbiketrackgear.com/maxima-speed-wax-all-in-one-detailer/
All the chain tools I've used have bent the breaking anvil within seconds of tightening down, I ended up having to use a cutter to get the old chains off. This looks like it may be the only tool that wont bend the anvil immediately, I'll have to invest in one
Great Video, Van. Replacing chain on 125cc Honda Grom + factory spec aftermarket sprockets. Would I be an idiot to try and attempt chain replacement w/ this tool? Chain is 420. Shop owner said it would work fine but I’m suspect.
Per Motion Pro it will not work with a 420: "Innovative design will Press, Break & Rivet 520, 525, & 530 chains with one convenient tool" That said I have only used this to rivet 520 links. - Van
I ordered a spare rivet link just in case. Think about what happens if something goes wrong in the process and how long it will take you to get a replacement link. I think I paid about $10 for a DID X-ring link.
Was looking at this a few weeks ago due to the good price didnt know if it was good or not. Thanks for the review! Gonna have to pick one up for sure when I'm able to
We do not have the replacement parts available here but Motion Pro does direct. Here is a link the page on their site where you can find them: www.motionpro.com/product/08-0470 Scroll down the page to find the replacement parts. - Van
I'm very curious on what kind of adjusters you have on the bike? where you can adjust using your hands and with a very audible click to make sure you are adjusting each side the same amount, are those aftermarket or factory on the bike?
Hey Van, I was wondering, would 5ish millimeters be enough for the rivets to be pressed? They might be 5.2 or 5.3 mm. I just put on some new Vortex sprockets and chain up in Maine on my 07 CBR600RR, getting ready for some nicer weather to come to ride. I left them at about 5ish mm because it was really starting to take some force and it feels like that's where they want to stay. It looks like they could spread a little farther though. Should I try to get them to 6mm or just call it good? I would imagine there isn't much force if any exerted on the master link in the direction to push the side plate off anyway. And to me, it seems like the 5 to 5.5 mm I have should be adequate, but this is my first chain job and I'm not completely sure! Thanks.
I never measure the rivet personally. When riveting the link of I try to get it close to others that are permanent and even with one another. If you do some research you may find some specs out there for the rivet links. At the end of the day there is very little for on the side plate and it doesn't take much distortion of the rivet to ensure the plate will not come off. - Van
Thanks for another great instructional video. Unfortunately, black chain, black tool in a dark shaded area is very hard to see. Need more light in there. Your hands are perfectly exposed though!
Awesome! Thank you very much I just ordered that tool and same chain with sprockets, I'll be doing this next week. Question though, would you suggest pushing the wheel towards the front of the bike so you could always have the option to tighten the chain up or leave the tension bracket at somewhat middle for option to loosen and tension it in future?
Unless you are setting the wheelbase to get a race bike to handle I would recommend setting it to the middle for sure. This will give you the best blend of handling and range of adjustment as the chain stretches. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgear cool!! Tha k you very much, I haven't done any bike work before, this week I'll be replacing chain and sprockets, but your video is exceptionally detailed and well elaborated! Thank you very much!
@@sportbiketrackgear hey guys, so I've used the tool to replace chain and it worked wonders! Super easy to work. But I also changed sprockets, front went from t15 to t14 and rear stayed T45... question is... how much does one front sproket tooth decrease affect speedometer reading? Thank you in advance!
I do all this on the back sprocket. creates a nice work bench and prevents the chain from wiggling around. Nice video otherwise, your so damn strong, look at those biceps.
Amazing video brian thinking about buying this tool. 1 question though if i only want to change the rear sprockets will i have to change the chain or will i be able to use the same rivot that i opened and press it back again? Thanks again
You can not reuse rivet links, these need to be replaced each time you cut the chain. When changing sprockets if you are making a small change like 1-2 teeth you may be able to do that with the chain you have on the bike now. For example if your rear axle is towards the end of the swingarm and you want to install a rear sprocket 1-2 teeth larger odds are you will be good. - Van
I am not 100% sure what you are referring to. I think you are describing the chain breaking pin being used. If that is the case you need to break both of the rivets on the plate to break the chain. On the first rivet you want to break the rivet head but not push it too far through. On the second one you are able to push it all the way through. Once the rivet head is broken on both sides of the plate it will push through very easily. - Van
question for you van, I have a very stiff link in my did 520 chain. I am looking to replace the link with a new master link. you stated in this video by adding to a chain I can end up with binding. is there a way I can be okay to do this since I'm not adding more than one new link ? the chain only has 11,000 miles. thanks for all of the kick ass vids man
Is there any reason to keep the factory endless chain once you break and remove it? I can't imagine ever needing it because it would require going back to the original. sprocket setup but I hate to just throw away an otherwise good item for no reason. Can you master link a chain that started out as a factory endless?
Definitely made a mistake by buying this tool. Should have gotten the DID tool for my DID chains. I wouldn't need to worry about extra master links or measuring the stake penetration or the flare measurement.
So im going -1 front ,+1 on the rear sprocket, and im afraid i may need to go to a +2 in the rear sprocket. So i need to cut chain as loose as possible bc the sprocket size is going to get larger requiring more chain correct?
@@sportbiketrackgear Hello, I ask about the chain links that are not hollow, which are riveted like the originals. I think this tool you have has a tool for riveting solid chain links from the hard ones and I don't see any video on youtube where someone does it or explains it, thanks
If you're talking about the stock chain you only need to break it in one location as you're going to discard the chain anyway. With the replacement chain though you need to break both sides as Van said in order to get the plate off.
@@sportbiketrackgear good. My XR's chain and sprockets have seen much better days and need replacing so it's the perfect time for me to order the motion pro
Curious what your thoughts are on this tool vs the RK tool for someone that is only going to be replacing a chain every 2-3 years. Which one is more easier/forgiving for a first timer?
IMO this is the best tool for someone doing it for their first time. It is very simple to use, comes with great instructions and does everything you need regardless of the type of chain, etc.
We are recommending the Motion Pro PBR Chain Tool now. We have used this one on our project bikes for the last couple years and love it. It has also been a top seller for us with tons of great feedback. Here is a link to it on our site: www.sportbiketrackgear.com/motion-pro-pbr-chain-tool-08-0470/ - Brian Van
just bought the tool. your vid says threads are lubed. they are DRY. also, the anvil block is NOT labeled with any lettering.I followed the how-to vid to figure it out. thanks for the great video!
It depends on whether you're also planning a sprocket change or not - or if you got the bike used and don't trust what the last owner did. But yeah, if it's your bike and you've worked on it before, aren't making any other changes, then you should be able to use the same number of links as the old chain.
@@hungwasson1399, yes I bought the new Ninja 400 back in Nov.2019...and would expect to purchase a new sprocket (with the same amount of teeth) along with the new chain...I could do a dry run on length of old chain, and if it was to long then I would be doing double work...and if it was to long by not paying attention to Van The Man, he would laugh at me and that would be the learning curve...right...thks for answering my question...and if you are the camera man of his work, then please excuse my comment on your focusing of your camera video shots, it's just I wish to be able to see the workmanship of Van The Man when he is doing something along with his hands doing the job...later
If you are using the same gearing and want to keep the wheel base the same length you can for sure do that. Any changes to gearing and you need to set the chain length when you install it. - Van
I have riveted several DID ERV3 chains with this tool in the video. End of the day there is no real difference between the DID rivet links and other brands. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgear there is a difference in the shape and size of the ball on the end of the ribbit section of the tool I'm thinking.i have use 3 links and to get them to D.I.D specs of how flared it should be.this tool will cause the ribbit to crack if you actually take the ribbit to just the bare minimum recommended by them and it will split. I have tryed it 3 times and went painfully slow and measuring in between ever little bit pressing forward. I belive the chain I have is the 530 vx3 d.i.d..if I get the ribbit anywhere close to the minimum that's require it will split down the side.this is just my experience and is very aggravating. I have used this tool on other model did chains with out having this issue. The sheet I have specifies it to be flared between 0.224 inches and 0.236 inches. I havent been able to get close to that without it splitting so I'm not sure.
I know this video is a few years old now, but your video sold me on this tool. Great job on explaining the steps! I appreciate it!
You are more than welcome. Motion Pro did a great job with this chain tool. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgear❤😊😅
I still use this video and my PBR tool each time I buy a new chain. Thanks for making it!
You are welcome, happy to help out. - Van
Will buy one today, putting new chain on this week. After 35 yrs of using grinder to cut chain, pressing link with skinny vise grips to set link, using two 3lb hammers on each side to smash the rivets, I think it's time I graduate to one of these!
I'm still doing your previous method I been doing it for 15 years
Great tool! If one has a digital caliper, a good way to know if you've got the plates pressed to the correct point is to measure across the width of a few "factory" staked links. When the pressed master link is in the correct position, its width should be the same.
Yes that is a great way to measure the rivet for sure. That said you won't find these in many tool boxes. If you have the caliper then use it, if not you can still get the job done with a little patience. - Van
Thanks thats the info I was looking for . Makes much more sense than guessing if it on enough before riveting
@@sportbiketrackgear I think this is a very important bit of information and worth editing the video to include it . A master link is the most important part of installing a chain properly ,and, riveting it on improperly could cost someone there life . imaging pulling out with safe distance in front of a semi and your chain falls off and you get smoked . I came to this video to make sure I was doing it properly this comment By Kenneth Mitchell is worth re editing the video.
Every time. Great precision tool that really isn’t all that expensive for the use it gets in my toolbox.
@@sportbiketrackgear when i made the master link the same width as the other links it squeezed the o ring: it definitely shouldn’t be the same
Nice to see someone technically proficient with the tool, and the task. Very well done sir.
Thank you for watching and for the kind words. - Van
Excellent tutorial. I followed this and nailed it the first time. And it's a really well engineered and well built tool. I highly recommend it. No more clip type master links for me!
Thanks for watching and happy to hear it was helpful. - Van
Thanks Van. I was using my tool the wrong way when trying to press the plates together. I was doing it separate at each rivet instead of the middle. Instructions are kind of shit. You do a much better job explaining. Thank you.
You are welcome, happy to hear this was helpful. - Van
I love the fact you dont need to dremel away the pin in order to push it out, great video.
I am still using this tool today on Max's MotoAmerica Supersport GSX-R750. - Van
I used to break and link chains back in the 70s at the age of 15 by only using a hammer, a nut and a pin, total cost near nil!
To cut the chain to the right length it's easy just put side to side the old chain with the new one and you have the right size.
Use a chain link because it's MUCH MUCH more convenient when you want to remove the chain, I do this way so I leave it overnight in oil the I leave it drop the oil and I put the chain back, no expensive toll needed!
I would not recommend doing this on a high horsepower bike. You need to use a proper rivet and tool to peen the rivet to ensure it will not fail. - Van
Just ordered this tool, two master links, my chain and new sprockets from you guys last week and am waiting on it to come in. You guys make the greatest how to videos I've ever seen! Thank you so much. I'm very mechanical and do all my own work but this will be my first chain and sprocket replacement.
You are welcome! Thank you for the business and the kind words. - Brian Van
Changed a few chains in my time but I'm always happy to review a great video like this before doing another one. Thanks!
You are welcome and thank you for watching! - Van
I just got this tool and used it on my 2019 StreetBob while converting it to chain drive. It works great!!
This is the best chain tool I have ever used. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgear I’d have to agree with you on this statement. It is simple to use, had a good instruction pamphlet in colour without the obligatory hard to understand Chinese translated to Swahili then back to English instructions lol. I say good job making this tool. Works like they should.
I like this video. I think a good way to reduce the trial and error adjustments in pressing the outer plate would be to use vernier calipers and measure the width of an existing link on the chain. Assuming the rivet link is the same spec. of coarse.
some chains come with a spacer for this. I saved mine. when it comes to spreading the end of the pins this is where the DID chain tool is genius. you can't over do it. you just tighten it until it touches and you will have a perfectly flared pin to exact specs
@@blue03r6 what Garber is saying is not flaring the rivets but pressing the plate. That's what I do Bob. Use a caliper and a lot of times plates will all be a little different but if you measure the width of multiple existing plates you will get a good measurement for the plate your pressing. I could never do it by eye. Then it affects your rivet etc.
"BIG TIP" when riveting the link and you put the fitting on with the ball bearing, wind down the inside pin on the tool until it touches the back of the ball bearing adapter - IF YOU DONT DO THIS IT WILL JUST PUSH THE BALL BEARING INTO THE ADAPTER.
Good call. - Van
Do not do this it will break the tool there is a magnet in the back and it will bust all apart.ask me how I know.
I wish I read this before doing my ZX10 chain, I had that exact thing happen. Had the center pin backed off 3 - 4mm, lined up and started winding the outer screw then heard a nasty crunchy sound as the magnet behind the ball pushed through the back of the adapter and met its demise against the center pin :(. Now trying to find where to get a new adapter piece from in Australia
Thank you
Mine just came in. No idea how to use it so I’m watching this video 😆💯
Still my favorite chain tool. - Van
Watched the video as I did my first chain with my new motion pro tool and you made my life so much easier came out great thank you
Happy to hear it was helpful and thank you for watching! - Van
FAULTY PART UPGRADE: the original PBR Rivet Tip (for hollow pin connectors) was a chrome ball pressed into the rivet tip head - they generally failed after the first use because it just pushed into the head and broke the rear magnet.
The new "PBR Hollow Nose Rivet Tip" is one molded piece still with a magnet at the rear, so if you have broken one upgrade it with Motion Pro Part No: C080470L
I have had this same tool shown in this video for a long time with zero issues. We have riveted a lot of links on with this tool. - Van
Hi Van, I'm happy you haven't had a problem with your rivet head because it looks like you have one with chrome ball which means not all of them were faulty. Anyway I'm just letting people know Motion Pro admit there was a problem with the original rivet head and have fixed the problem. Motion Pro make excellent tools and the PBR tool is great so if you are unlucky enough to have a problem just replace the rivet head. 👍
Thank you! This video cleared up all questions I had about this tool!
I realized I DIDN'T know how to use this tool mid-project. lol
You are welcome, happy to help. - Van
I realized it when the masterlink fell off mid flight haha
If you use the master link to connect the old chain with the new, you can put the bike in neutral and use the old chain to pull the new chain over the sprockets.
Not a bad idea but I would still recommend pulling the front sprocket cover off to inspect the front sprocket if you are not replacing it. - Van
Hey! Van, I just ordered my pro chain pbr tool on the STG web-site...Thanks so much for your video's on the subjects that cover my 400 cc 2019 Ninja...you da man Van...oh! and not to forget to plug for the camera man who has been doing a great job on the vid's...you should make sure he gets a raise in pay...
Thank you for the kind words and the business! - Van
I just ordered this tool for my new chain after watching your video on how to use it. You do a great job with step-by-step instructions and explanations on how to use the tool. Thanks for the videos and ride safe!
I just received mine today and put it to use. It's great! One thing though: the main bolt (MP calls it the body bolt), HOLY SHIT was it in there tight when I first went to use it! I had to screw the handle in, put it on the floor with the handle facing the same direction I was turning it in, stand on it, then press down with all my weight to get it broken loose with the longest 17 mm wrench I have. So if you have the same problem, give that a shot to break it loose.
Just ordered this and a new chain and sprocket set, thanks for the help. ☝🏼
I just got mine in the mail today, haven't used it yet, but can't wait to!! Don, TX
+donwolfjr1 Super convenient tool!
+Sportbike Track Gear That's good!!!
Fantastic to find this as I research tools. I'm nervous about doing this but I'm going to give it a try.
STG is here to help out for sure. - Van
These videos are the best! I just might do my own chain replacement and when the time comes I know where I am going to buy the tools from!
+Josh A Thanks for watching! - Van
Just order this chain tool kit from you guys. Can't wait to use it!
Thanks for the order and let us know how you like it! - Van
No need to grind them down as it pushed them right through with no issues. - Van
Great vid! Have you ever had to redo the master link after cracking a rivet? That's where I am finding myself now. My plan was to just use the extractor pin directly on the master link pins coming from the side that I was riveting. Not sure if I would need to file them in that case.
Also what lubricant are you using on the tool?
Daniel Walsh Thanks for watching! I have ruined many rivet links in my time. Really the only way is to break the rivet link and start over with a new one. I usually use a lithium grease, either a spray on or other, which ever I have around.
just bought this tool, excellent review many thanks ✌
You are welcome and thank you for watching! - Van
Great review, great camera work, thanks.
You are welcome and thank you for watching - Van
Great addition to any toolbox
100% the best chain tool I have used. - Van
Awesome video man. I appreciate you reviewing that tool.
You are welcome and thank you for watching! - Van
Nice job! Thank you. Now I know how to use this tool.
bought the tool, great vid, helps us weekend wrenches a lot thanks
do you like this tool over a DID chain tool? I like how the DID chain tool flares the pins. there is no guess work or need to measure them when done. if you tighten it down until it touches the side plate the flare will be in exact specs of any chain I've seen.
@
blue03r6 You're the typical troll comparing a Toyota to a Ferrari without looking at the huge price difference!
Thanks for the instruction and making my first chain replacement on the BMW G650GS a breeze. Your instruction gave me the confidence to know I was doing it right! Thanks a ton!
Thanks for watching and we are glad to have helped!
I like to use digital calipers to measure the inside of the other links and match the distance to the master link
If you want to use the calipers to make sure you have the rivet compressed enough no reason not to. - Van
Thanks for the demonstration. The pins on my other chain tool twisted into a spiral. This looks like a far better tool! I'll definitely have to pick one up over the winter.
I love the Motion Pro line up of tools, the only downside I had with this specific tool is that the pushing rod for the Breaking portion, snapped, even though I followed every instruction to the tee, and exactly has you showed and it said in the instructions. So I gotta get another one of those push rods for breaking the chain, which I’m actually gonna order a couple of them just to have
Sorry to hear you had an issue with the breaker. I have used this a number of times over the years and really like this chain tool. - Van
Hey Logan does the kit come with a spare rod like the video says? or should I order a few spares at the same time?
@@Ormesy my kit did come with a spare
I have the same chain breaker I haven't gotten a chance to put my chain on yet my question is so you press one at a time or both at the same time time awesome video sir
After pressing the outer plate on you compress the head of the rivets one at a time. - Van
Another great video ! Thanks
You are welcome and thank you for watching! - Van
Outstanding explanation. Any tips on how to remove chain wax from surfaces where it doesn't belong?
The Maxima Speedwax works good on the bodywork. For the other surfaces I use Formula 409 and maybe a little Maxima Suspension Clean.
www.sportbiketrackgear.com/maxima-suspension-clean/
www.sportbiketrackgear.com/maxima-speed-wax-all-in-one-detailer/
Great video very informative & extremely helpful. Thanks a bunch
Btw motion pro pbr tool is incredible buy it people you won't regret it.
You are welcome and thanks for sharing your feedback! - Van
All the chain tools I've used have bent the breaking anvil within seconds of tightening down, I ended up having to use a cutter to get the old chains off. This looks like it may be the only tool that wont bend the anvil immediately, I'll have to invest in one
We sell hundreds of these per year now. This is still the best chain tool I have used. - Van
I bought one of these from them, they're fantastic. Super sturdy.
Thanks for sharing. Curious as to why there is a cut in the video when driving out the rivet at 3:15 ?
I most likely dropped an f bomb. - Van
Great Video, Van. Replacing chain on 125cc Honda Grom + factory spec aftermarket sprockets. Would I be an idiot to try and attempt chain replacement w/ this tool? Chain is 420. Shop owner said it would work fine but I’m suspect.
Per Motion Pro it will not work with a 420:
"Innovative design will Press, Break & Rivet 520, 525, & 530 chains with one convenient tool"
That said I have only used this to rivet 520 links. - Van
What in the jimminy cricket are the adjusters you're using for the chain slack? That looks so much easier to use! 😍
Those are the Lightech Chain Adjusters. These are available for most common sportbikes. - Van
I ordered a spare rivet link just in case. Think about what happens if something goes wrong in the process and how long it will take you to get a replacement link. I think I paid about $10 for a DID X-ring link.
Having an extra link is never a bad idea. - Van
Thank you for sharing your experience, very good lesson, I have exactly that tool made in USA, to change the chain on my bike F800GS. Grateful
Thanks for this Demo and I was wondering if you sell those mechanic shirt 👕 that you wear.
Thank a million.
Al
STG Max Van MotoAmerica Team Shirt
www.sportbiketrackgear.com/stg-max-van-motoamerica-team-shirt/
Damn good video sir, perfectly executed and described!
Was looking at this a few weeks ago due to the good price didnt know if it was good or not. Thanks for the review! Gonna have to pick one up for sure when I'm able to
+ShortyOnA636 I was impressed with this tool that's why we did this video. Nice tool at the right price. - Van
Congrats, this video is a seller!!!
GR8 VIDEO THANKZZZ FOR SHARING!!!
You are welcome and thank you for watching! - Van
good work Brian. why weren't the rivets ground down? The tool doesn't require it?
My pin/link split on the master using the pbr tool 🤦🏻♂️ while riveting on the new one...
We do not have the replacement parts available here but Motion Pro does direct. Here is a link the page on their site where you can find them: www.motionpro.com/product/08-0470
Scroll down the page to find the replacement parts. - Van
Mine didnt come with directions....thanks for doing this vid
Do you need the master link width to line up exactly with the other links? How do you know exactly how far to press it?
..I know it's nearly 5yrs old but I just spotted what you done at 14:16! I wont tell though 🤪 👍
You caught me, I pressed the plate on so I could rivet it in place. - Van
I'm very curious on what kind of adjusters you have on the bike? where you can adjust using your hands and with a very audible click to make sure you are adjusting each side the same amount, are those aftermarket or factory on the bike?
+Richard Li They are Lightech adjusters. STG carries them and if I'm not mistaken they have an install/review video.
Great walk through. I just ordered one.
Awesome! You won't regret it!
Hey Van, I was wondering, would 5ish millimeters be enough for the rivets to be pressed? They might be 5.2 or 5.3 mm. I just put on some new Vortex sprockets and chain up in Maine on my 07 CBR600RR, getting ready for some nicer weather to come to ride. I left them at about 5ish mm because it was really starting to take some force and it feels like that's where they want to stay. It looks like they could spread a little farther though. Should I try to get them to 6mm or just call it good? I would imagine there isn't much force if any exerted on the master link in the direction to push the side plate off anyway. And to me, it seems like the 5 to 5.5 mm I have should be adequate, but this is my first chain job and I'm not completely sure! Thanks.
I never measure the rivet personally. When riveting the link of I try to get it close to others that are permanent and even with one another. If you do some research you may find some specs out there for the rivet links. At the end of the day there is very little for on the side plate and it doesn't take much distortion of the rivet to ensure the plate will not come off. - Van
Thanks for another great instructional video. Unfortunately, black chain, black tool in a dark shaded area is very hard to see. Need more light in there. Your hands are perfectly exposed though!
These videos are tough to shoot for sure. Thanks for watching! - Van
Awesome! Thank you very much I just ordered that tool and same chain with sprockets, I'll be doing this next week. Question though, would you suggest pushing the wheel towards the front of the bike so you could always have the option to tighten the chain up or leave the tension bracket at somewhat middle for option to loosen and tension it in future?
Unless you are setting the wheelbase to get a race bike to handle I would recommend setting it to the middle for sure. This will give you the best blend of handling and range of adjustment as the chain stretches. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgear cool!! Tha k you very much, I haven't done any bike work before, this week I'll be replacing chain and sprockets, but your video is exceptionally detailed and well elaborated! Thank you very much!
@@sportbiketrackgear hey guys, so I've used the tool to replace chain and it worked wonders! Super easy to work. But I also changed sprockets, front went from t15 to t14 and rear stayed T45... question is... how much does one front sproket tooth decrease affect speedometer reading? Thank you in advance!
I do all this on the back sprocket. creates a nice work bench and prevents the chain from wiggling around. Nice video otherwise, your so damn strong, look at those biceps.
This is the best chain tool on the market for sure. - Van
Amazing video brian thinking about buying this tool. 1 question though if i only want to change the rear sprockets will i have to change the chain or will i be able to use the same rivot that i opened and press it back again?
Thanks again
You can not reuse rivet links, these need to be replaced each time you cut the chain. When changing sprockets if you are making a small change like 1-2 teeth you may be able to do that with the chain you have on the bike now. For example if your rear axle is towards the end of the swingarm and you want to install a rear sprocket 1-2 teeth larger odds are you will be good. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgear already ordered from you the set thanks
You can run that 1st pin all the way out in the chain will come apart
I am not 100% sure what you are referring to. I think you are describing the chain breaking pin being used. If that is the case you need to break both of the rivets on the plate to break the chain. On the first rivet you want to break the rivet head but not push it too far through. On the second one you are able to push it all the way through. Once the rivet head is broken on both sides of the plate it will push through very easily. - Van
question for you van, I have a very stiff link in my did 520 chain. I am looking to replace the link with a new master link. you stated in this video by adding to a chain I can end up with binding. is there a way I can be okay to do this since I'm not adding more than one new link ? the chain only has 11,000 miles. thanks for all of the kick ass vids man
Is there any reason to keep the factory endless chain once you break and remove it? I can't imagine ever needing it because it would require going back to the original. sprocket setup but I hate to just throw away an otherwise good item for no reason. Can you master link a chain that started out as a factory endless?
Definitely made a mistake by buying this tool. Should have gotten the DID tool for my DID chains. I wouldn't need to worry about extra master links or measuring the stake penetration or the flare measurement.
is it bad to do all this work while master link is on the sprocket instead of in the middle of the slack?
The master link can be on the sprocket or floating, up to you. - Van
So im going -1 front ,+1 on the rear sprocket, and im afraid i may need to go to a +2 in the rear sprocket. So i need to cut chain as loose as possible bc the sprocket size is going to get larger requiring more chain correct?
What grease do you use for the master and rivot links?
They supply a packet of grease in the rivet link package that you use during the install. - Van
Does that tool have to rivet hard solid pins?
Not 100% sure what you are asking here. Any rivet link will have hollow ends that can be crushed to hold the end plate on. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgear Hello, I ask about the chain links that are not hollow, which are riveted like the originals. I think this tool you have has a tool for riveting solid chain links from the hard ones and I don't see any video on youtube where someone does it or explains it, thanks
What chain adjusters are those?
Those are the Lightech Chain Adjusters. Awesome part, we have used them on several bikes now. - Van
Excellent video! Well done!! Thank you!!
Don W. ,Tx
+donwolfjr1 Thanks for watching!
+Sportbike Track Gear You're welcome, n appreciate the videos!!!
i keep breaking my jk chain masterlinks. any advice how not to do that?
Can you break just one pin all the way out so you don't need to break the second?
To get the plate off you will have to break both of the rivets on the plate. - Van
If you're talking about the stock chain you only need to break it in one location as you're going to discard the chain anyway. With the replacement chain though you need to break both sides as Van said in order to get the plate off.
How does this one compare with the old Jumbo one?
IMO they both get the job done. I really like this one and have had the same one for a long time now. Best selling chain tool we have ever had. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgear solid. Thank you bro!
Very good and useful video.
Greetings from SERBIA :)
+K_A_W_A Thank you for the kind words and watching! - Van
Great video, thank you!!!!
You are welcome and thank you for watching! - Brian Van
Does it work on an XR250 chain? I think it's 520 but I'm not sure
Yes this will work for 520, 525 and 530 chains. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgear good. My XR's chain and sprockets have seen much better days and need replacing so it's the perfect time for me to order the motion pro
Awesome video
Good video, thanks you for the info.
looks good but the reviews on other sites dont look too good so im not sure if I should buy it or not. Van have you had any problems with this tool
Thanks for the question! I have been using this tool for years and never had any issues.
Will it remove and rivit a stock r6 532 chain
chris vann just did it on my 15 R6 today. It did just fine, highly recommend this tool
no grinder needed???
Nope, you can break the chain with the tool without a problem. - Van
How to avail? Tnx bro
We have them in stock here at the shop now. Here is a link to them on our site: www.sportbiketrackgear.com/motion-pro-pbr-chain-tool-08-0470/ - Van
Curious what your thoughts are on this tool vs the RK tool for someone that is only going to be replacing a chain every 2-3 years. Which one is more easier/forgiving for a first timer?
IMO this is the best tool for someone doing it for their first time. It is very simple to use, comes with great instructions and does everything you need regardless of the type of chain, etc.
what is the difference between Motion Pro and Motion Pro Jumbo
We are recommending the Motion Pro PBR Chain Tool now. We have used this one on our project bikes for the last couple years and love it. It has also been a top seller for us with tons of great feedback. Here is a link to it on our site: www.sportbiketrackgear.com/motion-pro-pbr-chain-tool-08-0470/ - Brian Van
just bought the tool. your vid says threads are lubed. they are DRY. also, the anvil block is NOT labeled with any lettering.I followed the how-to vid to figure it out. thanks for the great video!
Can't you just measure the old chain and take out those links of the new chain and you would be good to good...?
It depends on whether you're also planning a sprocket change or not - or if you got the bike used and don't trust what the last owner did. But yeah, if it's your bike and you've worked on it before, aren't making any other changes, then you should be able to use the same number of links as the old chain.
@@hungwasson1399, yes I bought the new Ninja 400 back in Nov.2019...and would expect to purchase a new sprocket (with the same amount of teeth) along with the new chain...I could do a dry run on length of old chain, and if it was to long then I would be doing double work...and if it was to long by not paying attention to Van The Man, he would laugh at me and that would be the learning curve...right...thks for answering my question...and if you are the camera man of his work, then please excuse my comment on your focusing of your camera video shots, it's just I wish to be able to see the workmanship of Van The Man when he is doing something along with his hands doing the job...later
If you are using the same gearing and want to keep the wheel base the same length you can for sure do that. Any changes to gearing and you need to set the chain length when you install it. - Van
I didn't know Hulk rode motorcycles.
LOL
This is ASMR
run down the nut on the what?
This tool does not RIVET correctly with DID chains
I have riveted several DID ERV3 chains with this tool in the video. End of the day there is no real difference between the DID rivet links and other brands. - Van
@@sportbiketrackgear there is a difference in the shape and size of the ball on the end of the ribbit section of the tool I'm thinking.i have use 3 links and to get them to D.I.D specs of how flared it should be.this tool will cause the ribbit to crack if you actually take the ribbit to just the bare minimum recommended by them and it will split. I have tryed it 3 times and went painfully slow and measuring in between ever little bit pressing forward. I belive the chain I have is the 530 vx3 d.i.d..if I get the ribbit anywhere close to the minimum that's require it will split down the side.this is just my experience and is very aggravating. I have used this tool on other model did chains with out having this issue. The sheet I have specifies it to be flared between 0.224 inches and 0.236 inches. I havent been able to get close to that without it splitting so I'm not sure.
awesome tool. too bad trump decided to stop exporting everything out to the world. costs me almost 150 to buy this and i cant find a seller in europe
you are a fool, you might ask your markets to open up so we can export stuff to you.
yessss because i have that kind of power. i'm a single individual not a resell store. morron.
Awesome video! Thanks.
You are welcome and thanks for watching! - Van