Here are the most recent Bodice Instructions: Bodice Block Front - Imperial Version th-cam.com/video/oRHWXw6qMr4/w-d-xo.html Bodice Block Front - Metric Version th-cam.com/video/2ubak0HM2HY/w-d-xo.html Bodice Block Back - Imperial Version th-cam.com/video/EW8qaMgnV-o/w-d-xo.html Bodice Block Back - Metric Version th-cam.com/video/aW4mRJNRke4/w-d-xo.html
I’ve just discovered your website and channel. Your instructions are hands down the best I have ever read on fitting and drafting patterns. So clear, and you answer all the questions that others don’t. As a woman with a non-standard figure, I am very grateful! Thank you for your excellent advice 🙂
You're a godsend! I have always struggled with woven fabric but this solves my problems. And thank you for explaining how you came up with the new bodice - I have learnt so much!
Hello Zohra, I uploaded the amended Bodice Front yesterday and the amended Bodice Back should be up in a few days. Good luck with it! I know that I almost didn't believe I could have well-fitting comfortable clothing, but I now do!
I made test fit blocks from instructions off dennic chunman lo, Helen Armstrong and Antonio donnanno but I haven't had a better fitting garment in my life. Thank you so much ❤️
Hello Hira You are very welcome. I must mention though that these instructions under which you left this comment did have some mistakes. I have noted that in the information section under the video. I uploaded new instructions recently - March 2022. In this video your side length would have ended up too short..... Although you ended up with a better fit, you might get even a better fit.... If you just watch the beginning of the newer instructions you can get an idea of the issues and fix them in your block if necessary.
@@Dresspatternmaking Thank you so much, I had read your info box mentioning about the side seam length so I had kept that in mind while drafting , I drafted it in November but I used the pattern recently and everyone complemented me on the fit so I wanted to thank you ❤️
Muchas gracias, excelente explicación. Quiero probar este método. Nunca he determinado la caída de hombro de esta manera. Siempre tomaba una medida estándar de 4 centímetros. Para la altura de sisa tomaba la mitad de la medida de hombro a partir de los 4 centímetros de la caída de hombro. Sinceramente me gusta mucho su método y definitivamente voy a probarlo. Super agradecida 😀
Hello Fatima I'm really sorry Fatima, but this is an old version of my instructions - I have revised and improved the system.... My videos on Bodice Block Essentials explains that in detail. You will get a better outcome with my instructions dated March 2022. I'm sorry about this - I am trying to make that obvious, but it's not always working. (If I delete the video or make it private I lose all the likes and comments and that afffects my TH-cam ratings).
Thanks WillemstadArtGroup. Had to look Cucacao up (not sure how to put the cedilla under the letter C). Looks gorgeous. I live by the sea too, and it's just as picturesque here.
Bonjour Maria, votre travail est merveilleux ! Sa richesse tant en qualité qu'en quantité est époustouflante. Le souci de l'esthétique très présent à travers des illustrations très techniques que ce soit sur votre site ou vos vidéos les rend encore plus agréables. C'est un vrai bonheur ! Depuis que j'ai découvert votre site, je n'ai jamais trouvé d'autres réflexions, ni de propositions, concernant le sujet sur lequel portent vos travaux et recherches. Cela me fait toujours penser que votre méthode était tout simplement révolutionnaire. Qu'en pensez-vous ? Merci pour tout ce travail très pertinent que vous partagez ! Hello Maria, your work is wonderful! Its richness both in quality and quantity is breathtaking. The concern for aesthetics very present through very technical illustrations whether on your site or your videos makes them even more enjoyable. It is a real happiness! Since I discovered your site, I have never found any other thoughts, or proposals, concerning the subject on which your work and research relate. It always makes me think that your method was just revolutionary. What do you think ? Thank you for all this very relevant work that you share!
Hello Laurence Lovely to hear from you again and thanks for your positive comments. I have been quite unwell for a few months, and as my eyesight was affected I haven't been doing any computer work at all - not even answering comments very often. My eyesight in better now and I should be able to get back to creating content again from early next year. I have a lot of content planned, but I do first have to go back and amend the mistake in my Bodice Block Instructions. (Although I can at this moment go back to doing computer work again I am taking the rest of this year off for me, to spend all my time doing patternmaking and sewing. During the three months early in year when I created the Bodice Block Essential videos, I had no time at all during those months to do any patternmaking or sewing. The instructions I create are VERY time intensive. It becomes a problem if I spend all my time creating instructions but don't have any time for patternmaking!). I do appreciate that you see the value of my work; that it is seen as unique. I have put a lot of time into thinking of how to make drafting blocks easier for those who don't have Standard Figures. I also think my (planned) upcoming series of videos on drafting dresses will also be as helpful for those with Non-Standard Figures. I am quite excited when I think of how much I have to share, but on the flip side there is a lot of work involved. (And actually, I am making about 20 dresses to show very specific examples to cover a range of different issues, finishes and information). Hope you have a lovely Christmas! Cheers Maria
Hello! Thank you for these videos! I am trying to draft a block using your standard block measurements but I do not see a measurment for the J-K side bust depth on any of your charts. May I ask what the standard side seam bust depth is for your size 12 block and size 14 block? Thank you!
hi i enjoyed your videos they make perfect sense you say you have a pdf of the body block can you post a link so i can buy them as i have a very large bust and small back and would prefer to have it written down so i go at my own pace yours make so much sense in using upper bust measurement as my difference between by upper bust arc and my bust arc measurement is 15 cm so always struggled with a fba before thankyou for making it easier to understand hope when i get around to doing my body block it fits as good as yours looks
Hi SexxySuee1. Good luck with making your block.... I am unfortunately very behind on a lot of things and being sick for a few weeks hasn't helped. There is a mistake in my instructions in these Bodice Block videos - see in the Description of this video. Basically your armhole will be a bit lower than it should be (and your side seam will be a little shorter than the measurement you start with. I will be at some point redoing the instructions to fix the mistake. I was hoping to get the Bodice Block Step-by-Step instructions book out soon, but would like to get both the updated video and those written instructions up together. I will let you now when that happens. This shouldn't really shouldn't make a difference to the FIT of the block, but it won't be the best block to use as the base for all your patterns. If you want to make a start you could draft this to test for fit, or you might want to wait until I've redone the instructions. The problem there is that I put up a questionnaire and more people so far have said that they'd prefer me to work on a drafting a pattern video before redoing the Bodice Block videos.
Thank found your instructions on your website will try and make a block off those and test on my mannequin will look foward to new video and instructions when you can will also buy you a ko fi on your website whilst awaiting new video and pattern drafting instructions thank you
@@sexxysuee1 Hi Susie…A year ago I made TH-cam videos on drafting the bodice block. They are still valid and work pretty well for most women - (at least women with larger bust cups) however they are only in Imperial mm, not metric. Those videos and the written instructions on my website are the same sytem. The reason I ‘refined’ my system is that I found that women with small (patternmaking) bust-cups were running into difficulties. If you watch all the Bodice Block Essential videos (6 parts), they will explain the differences in my original system and my new system. I know that might be a lot of time, but they do contain a lot of useful information and might make it clear to you whether you could just use the older instructions or wait for me to fix up this latest version. And thanks for the coffee!
Good day, thanks much I do enjoy ur tutorials. I am experimenting making a dress using the individual block information. The shoulder to waist length have over 3 inches difference between the back and the front.nso I add darts at the front to ensure the same distance for the side seam. The dart ID large so I wanted to move an inch to the shoulder. Isn't this going to make the front longer than the back by an inch hence the front won't be at the true waist as measured? Any suggestions?looking forward to your feedback
Firstly, let me start by saying, in case you haven't seen it in the description section under the video, there is a mistake in these new videos of mine. I revised my instructions from the original but ended up making a mistake. I haven't yet had to the time to redo the video, and so you will end up with the sides seams a bit shorter than they should be (back and front equal length, but shorter than they should be), if you use these instructions. Regarding your other questions: If you move some of the side seam dart into the shoulder correctly, using the principles of dart manipulation, it will not affect anything else. Having said that, even if you side seam dart is really large, there is no need to move some of it into the shoulder for the Block. The Block is used as the starting point, and you do your dart manipulation when you draft patterns. Regarding the difference between your Full Length Front and Full Length Back, if f you have taken your measurements correctly, and you have followed the instructions, then there shouldn't be an issue with it at all.
Hello Maria. I have doubts about the side seam; should it be perpendicular to the floor? Or does it have a certain forward lean, in the case that the quarter waist measurement is taken as a reference or point of balance? I thought about the possibility of tracing directly on the body with the help of chalk, ruler, etc. since here there is no variety of bra sizes. ¿Can the front waist measurement eventually be a different measurement than the back waist? For example, the front waist will be wider than the back waist. Thank you
Hi Quimera The slope of the side seam will vary depending on the different between your Upper Bust and Bust as it relates to the One-Dart Block. After adding in the side seam dart the slope from the dart down to the waist will depend on a number of thing; it's hard to explain that in a few words, but it will depend on the size of your side seam dart (which of itself depends on a few things including your shoulder slope), your full length front and your waist measurement. All of which is to say ... the size seam slope will be completely different for each individual figure. When you say there is 'no variety of bra sizes' - this method takes Bust Cups into account, not bra bust cups which are not relevant to the bodice block. In order to understand that you will need to watch the Bodice Block Essential series. In my original Bodice Block videos, I did use the Pattermmaking Bust Cup Sizes to draft the block, but that method does not get everyone a good result. I will not explain that here because it is all explained in detail in the Bodice Block essential vidoes. You could if you wish use waist arcs as well as bust arcs,, instead of dividing the waist measurement by 4.
Good morning ma'am , greetings from Nigeria! After making the sleeveless block and you want to turn it to a tube ! Do you still need to contour your patterns!! God bless
Hi there. I am unsure what you mean by turning into a tube. If you mean for making stretch garments, you need to make adjustments to the block. I have information on my website regarding turning woven blocks into stretch blocks. This consists of taking out the ease and removing the darts. When working with stretch you don't need to do contouring. Again, I'm not sure if this is what you mean as I don't understand the reference to a tube.
@@chisomlinda9687 Then yes, you have to do contouring. I have information on my website on contouring - about 7 pages under the Principles Menu: www.dresspatternmaking.com/principles/contouring
Hello Oyinkansola Sorry for the delay in answering, but I've been quite unwell for a while. I did start a PDF/Epub book, but then found there was an error in my instructions which means I have to go back and make some changes to the video before finishing the booklet. Then I got quite sick and I'm still not well. My eyesight has been affected, so computer work was not possible for a few months. I'm sorry but I won't be back working on this TH-cam channel or the booklet until next year - 2022. Although I'm now better, I am taking the rest of this year off for me to do some patternmaking and sewing, which I haven't had a chance to do for a while. So in a nutshell: there will be, hopefully early next year. Cheers, Maria
Hi Ngozi, I’m sorry but I thought I had responded to this comment. This is the Metric version; the one I published just before this was the Imperial version. I dod this because I had requests asking for metric versions. From now on there will be two versions of all my videos and booklets; one for Americans and the other for everyone else.
this tutorial is great, but I got lost during the dart transfer (pretty sure I did it wrong) and I didn't know where I'm supposed to mark that 0,5cm under the waist line. I don't even know how to explain it 😂 I'm going to study dart transfer today and hope I can fix it cause it already looks like it's gonna fit so much better on the upperbust than regular blocks
Hello Marina, I have uploaded the amended version yesterday of the Bodice Front yesterday. I don't know if you were aware there is a mistake in this video - I did put a note in the video description, but maybe not everyone reads that. The amended Bodice Back will be up in a few days.
Here are the most recent Bodice Instructions:
Bodice Block Front - Imperial Version
th-cam.com/video/oRHWXw6qMr4/w-d-xo.html
Bodice Block Front - Metric Version
th-cam.com/video/2ubak0HM2HY/w-d-xo.html
Bodice Block Back - Imperial Version
th-cam.com/video/EW8qaMgnV-o/w-d-xo.html
Bodice Block Back - Metric Version
th-cam.com/video/aW4mRJNRke4/w-d-xo.html
The best tutorial ever, explaining everything that no one ever bother to explain! What a sharp mind! Wishing you millions of subs and views!!💜💜💜
Thank you Linda.
I’ve just discovered your website and channel. Your instructions are hands down the best I have ever read on fitting and drafting patterns. So clear, and you answer all the questions that others don’t. As a woman with a non-standard figure, I am very grateful! Thank you for your excellent advice 🙂
THIS IS SO BLISSFULLY THOROUGH Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
You are so welcome!
Good morning teacher , thank you so much for this valuable knowledge . God bless you and your family . Srilanka .
You're welcome!
You're a godsend! I have always struggled with woven fabric but this solves my problems. And thank you for explaining how you came up with the new bodice - I have learnt so much!
Hello Zohra, I uploaded the amended Bodice Front yesterday and the amended Bodice Back should be up in a few days. Good luck with it! I know that I almost didn't believe I could have well-fitting comfortable clothing, but I now do!
Once again, thank you so much for your excellent videos!
Thanks Lorna.
I made test fit blocks from instructions off dennic chunman lo, Helen Armstrong and Antonio donnanno but I haven't had a better fitting garment in my life. Thank you so much ❤️
Hello Hira
You are very welcome.
I must mention though that these instructions under which you left this comment did have some mistakes. I have noted that in the information section under the video. I uploaded new instructions recently - March 2022. In this video your side length would have ended up too short.....
Although you ended up with a better fit, you might get even a better fit.... If you just watch the beginning of the newer instructions you can get an idea of the issues and fix them in your block if necessary.
@@Dresspatternmaking Thank you so much, I had read your info box mentioning about the side seam length so I had kept that in mind while drafting , I drafted it in November but I used the pattern recently and everyone complemented me on the fit so I wanted to thank you ❤️
Muchas gracias, excelente explicación. Quiero probar este método. Nunca he determinado la caída de hombro de esta manera. Siempre tomaba una medida estándar de 4 centímetros. Para la altura de sisa tomaba la mitad de la medida de hombro a partir de los 4 centímetros de la caída de hombro. Sinceramente me gusta mucho su método y definitivamente voy a probarlo. Super agradecida 😀
Hello Fatima
I'm really sorry Fatima, but this is an old version of my instructions - I have revised and improved the system.... My videos on Bodice Block Essentials explains that in detail. You will get a better outcome with my instructions dated March 2022. I'm sorry about this - I am trying to make that obvious, but it's not always working. (If I delete the video or make it private I lose all the likes and comments and that afffects my TH-cam ratings).
You are awesome, great videos. Greetings from Curaçao
Thanks WillemstadArtGroup. Had to look Cucacao up (not sure how to put the cedilla under the letter C). Looks gorgeous. I live by the sea too, and it's just as picturesque here.
Bonjour Maria, votre travail est merveilleux ! Sa richesse tant en qualité qu'en quantité est époustouflante. Le souci de l'esthétique très présent à travers des illustrations très techniques que ce soit sur votre site ou vos vidéos les rend encore plus agréables. C'est un vrai bonheur !
Depuis que j'ai découvert votre site, je n'ai jamais trouvé d'autres réflexions, ni de propositions, concernant le sujet sur lequel portent vos travaux et recherches. Cela me fait toujours penser que votre méthode était tout simplement révolutionnaire. Qu'en pensez-vous ?
Merci pour tout ce travail très pertinent que vous partagez !
Hello Maria, your work is wonderful! Its richness both in quality and quantity is breathtaking. The concern for aesthetics very present through very technical illustrations whether on your site or your videos makes them even more enjoyable. It is a real happiness!
Since I discovered your site, I have never found any other thoughts, or proposals, concerning the subject on which your work and research relate. It always makes me think that your method was just revolutionary. What do you think ?
Thank you for all this very relevant work that you share!
Hello Laurence
Lovely to hear from you again and thanks for your positive comments.
I have been quite unwell for a few months, and as my eyesight was affected I haven't been doing any computer work at all - not even answering comments very often.
My eyesight in better now and I should be able to get back to creating content again from early next year. I have a lot of content planned, but I do first have to go back and amend the mistake in my Bodice Block Instructions. (Although I can at this moment go back to doing computer work again I am taking the rest of this year off for me, to spend all my time doing patternmaking and sewing. During the three months early in year when I created the Bodice Block Essential videos, I had no time at all during those months to do any patternmaking or sewing. The instructions I create are VERY time intensive. It becomes a problem if I spend all my time creating instructions but don't have any time for patternmaking!).
I do appreciate that you see the value of my work; that it is seen as unique. I have put a lot of time into thinking of how to make drafting blocks easier for those who don't have Standard Figures. I also think my (planned) upcoming series of videos on drafting dresses will also be as helpful for those with Non-Standard Figures. I am quite excited when I think of how much I have to share, but on the flip side there is a lot of work involved. (And actually, I am making about 20 dresses to show very specific examples to cover a range of different issues, finishes and information).
Hope you have a lovely Christmas!
Cheers
Maria
The most important thing 👏
Muchas gracias por sus videos.
Mucho gusto. (O de nada?) Anque el castellano es mi primer idioma, hace muchos, muchos años que no hablo, me voy perdiendola y mi grammatrica es mal.
Simply great !
Thank you
You're welcome
Hello! Thank you for these videos! I am trying to draft a block using your standard block measurements but I do not see a measurment for the J-K side bust depth on any of your charts. May I ask what the standard side seam bust depth is for your size 12 block and size 14 block? Thank you!
hi i enjoyed your videos they make perfect sense you say you have a pdf of the body block can you post a link so i can buy them as i have a very large bust and small back and would prefer to have it written down so i go at my own pace yours make so much sense in using upper bust measurement as my difference between by upper bust arc and my bust arc measurement is 15 cm so always struggled with a fba before thankyou for making it easier to understand hope when i get around to doing my body block it fits as good as yours looks
Hi SexxySuee1. Good luck with making your block.... I am unfortunately very behind on a lot of things and being sick for a few weeks hasn't helped.
There is a mistake in my instructions in these Bodice Block videos - see in the Description of this video. Basically your armhole will be a bit lower than it should be (and your side seam will be a little shorter than the measurement you start with. I will be at some point redoing the instructions to fix the mistake. I was hoping to get the Bodice Block Step-by-Step instructions book out soon, but would like to get both the updated video and those written instructions up together. I will let you now when that happens.
This shouldn't really shouldn't make a difference to the FIT of the block, but it won't be the best block to use as the base for all your patterns. If you want to make a start you could draft this to test for fit, or you might want to wait until I've redone the instructions. The problem there is that I put up a questionnaire and more people so far have said that they'd prefer me to work on a drafting a pattern video before redoing the Bodice Block videos.
Thank found your instructions on your website will try and make a block off those and test on my mannequin will look foward to new video and instructions when you can will also buy you a ko fi on your website whilst awaiting new video and pattern drafting instructions thank you
@@sexxysuee1 Hi Susie…A year ago I made TH-cam videos on drafting the bodice block. They are still valid and work pretty well for most women - (at least women with larger bust cups) however they are only in Imperial mm, not metric. Those videos and the written instructions on my website are the same sytem.
The reason I ‘refined’ my system is that I found that women with small (patternmaking) bust-cups were running into difficulties. If you watch all the Bodice Block Essential videos (6 parts), they will explain the differences in my original system and my new system. I know that might be a lot of time, but they do contain a lot of useful information and might make it clear to you whether you could just use the older instructions or wait for me to fix up this latest version.
And thanks for the coffee!
Good day, thanks much I do enjoy ur tutorials. I am experimenting making a dress using the individual block information. The shoulder to waist length have over 3 inches difference between the back and the front.nso I add darts at the front to ensure the same distance for the side seam. The dart ID large so I wanted to move an inch to the shoulder. Isn't this going to make the front longer than the back by an inch hence the front won't be at the true waist as measured? Any suggestions?looking forward to your feedback
Firstly, let me start by saying, in case you haven't seen it in the description section under the video, there is a mistake in these new videos of mine. I revised my instructions from the original but ended up making a mistake. I haven't yet had to the time to redo the video, and so you will end up with the sides seams a bit shorter than they should be (back and front equal length, but shorter than they should be), if you use these instructions.
Regarding your other questions:
If you move some of the side seam dart into the shoulder correctly, using the principles of dart manipulation, it will not affect anything else. Having said that, even if you side seam dart is really large, there is no need to move some of it into the shoulder for the Block. The Block is used as the starting point, and you do your dart manipulation when you draft patterns.
Regarding the difference between your Full Length Front and Full Length Back, if f you have taken your measurements correctly, and you have followed the instructions, then there shouldn't be an issue with it at all.
@@Dresspatternmaking thanks for your feedback. Sorry to take up so much of your time writing 😆lol
Hello Maria. I have doubts about the side seam; should it be perpendicular to the floor? Or does it have a certain forward lean, in the case that the quarter waist measurement is taken as a reference or point of balance? I thought about the possibility of tracing directly on the body with the help of chalk, ruler, etc. since here there is no variety of bra sizes.
¿Can the front waist measurement eventually be a different measurement than the back waist? For example, the front waist will be wider than the back waist. Thank you
Hi Quimera
The slope of the side seam will vary depending on the different between your Upper Bust and Bust as it relates to the One-Dart Block. After adding in the side seam dart the slope from the dart down to the waist will depend on a number of thing; it's hard to explain that in a few words, but it will depend on the size of your side seam dart (which of itself depends on a few things including your shoulder slope), your full length front and your waist measurement.
All of which is to say ... the size seam slope will be completely different for each individual figure.
When you say there is 'no variety of bra sizes' - this method takes Bust Cups into account, not bra bust cups which are not relevant to the bodice block. In order to understand that you will need to watch the Bodice Block Essential series.
In my original Bodice Block videos, I did use the Pattermmaking Bust Cup Sizes to draft the block, but that method does not get everyone a good result. I will not explain that here because it is all explained in detail in the Bodice Block essential vidoes.
You could if you wish use waist arcs as well as bust arcs,, instead of dividing the waist measurement by 4.
Hi Maria
Am I going bonkers? Does the block include seam allowance or do we add that? Sorry. Many thinks
Blocks do you include seam allowance. You add the seam allowance when drafting patterns.
Good morning ma'am , greetings from Nigeria! After making the sleeveless block and you want to turn it to a tube ! Do you still need to contour your patterns!! God bless
Hi there. I am unsure what you mean by turning into a tube. If you mean for making stretch garments, you need to make adjustments to the block. I have information on my website regarding turning woven blocks into stretch blocks. This consists of taking out the ease and removing the darts. When working with stretch you don't need to do contouring. Again, I'm not sure if this is what you mean as I don't understand the reference to a tube.
@@Dresspatternmaking I meant strapless block
@@Dresspatternmaking I meant strapless block
@@chisomlinda9687 Then yes, you have to do contouring. I have information on my website on contouring - about 7 pages under the Principles Menu:
www.dresspatternmaking.com/principles/contouring
Please is there a pdf explaining this
Hello Oyinkansola
Sorry for the delay in answering, but I've been quite unwell for a while. I did start a PDF/Epub book, but then found there was an error in my instructions which means I have to go back and make some changes to the video before finishing the booklet. Then I got quite sick and I'm still not well. My eyesight has been affected, so computer work was not possible for a few months. I'm sorry but I won't be back working on this TH-cam channel or the booklet until next year - 2022. Although I'm now better, I am taking the rest of this year off for me to do some patternmaking and sewing, which I haven't had a chance to do for a while.
So in a nutshell: there will be, hopefully early next year.
Cheers, Maria
Is this different from your previous video?
Hi Ngozi, I’m sorry but I thought I had responded to this comment. This is the Metric version; the one I published just before this was the Imperial version. I dod this because I had requests asking for metric versions. From now on there will be two versions of all my videos and booklets; one for Americans and the other for everyone else.
this tutorial is great, but I got lost during the dart transfer (pretty sure I did it wrong) and I didn't know where I'm supposed to mark that 0,5cm under the waist line. I don't even know how to explain it 😂 I'm going to study dart transfer today and hope I can fix it cause it already looks like it's gonna fit so much better on the upperbust than regular blocks
Hello Marina, I have uploaded the amended version yesterday of the Bodice Front yesterday. I don't know if you were aware there is a mistake in this video - I did put a note in the video description, but maybe not everyone reads that. The amended Bodice Back will be up in a few days.
What's the update please?
I haven't had time to post regularly, but am hoping to start again soon.