Good luck! EDIT/CORRECTION: In the video I mention that ball-valves have to be straight, but there are actually angled ball-valves if you'd prefer a ball-valve and need an angled output. 01:18 - Choosing replacement valves 09:04 - How to replace the valves 16:14 - Summary of the process, tools, and cost
Great video (without the music). Thank you for doing this. My old valves don't show any threads so I'm wondering how they are attached. Any ideas on how to find out?
Thanks Aaron! There are so many different configurations out there that it's hard to say. Generally, the four common joints I came across for washing machine valves were threaded into an adapter (like mine), compression, push-to-connect, and soldered (also sometimes called 'sweated'). If the joint is visible, here are a few things that I used to check to see if it's one of those four (If you have a valve box on the wall like mine, you might need to remove the faceplate to be able to see the joint between the valve and the pipe unless it's already exposed like mine were). For threaded, if they're screwed in, there will usually be an adapter on the pipe that the valve is screwed into, which is one of the most obvious giveaways that the valve is screwed on. If the valves are mounted flush to the box, the threads and adapter may be just below the box in the wall and might not be visible though. The faceplate might need to be removed as I mentioned. Compression joints usually have a large nut that's slightly larger in diameter than the pipe as it's screwed on over the pipe. I found this to be an easy identifier for this type of joint - Google 'washing machine compression valve' and you'll see the nut I'm talking about. The push-to-connect usually have a distinctly larger collar where the pipe is pushed into the valve that makes them stand out - you can also Google 'push to connect washing machine valve' and you'll see the collar. If the valve is soldered on, the pipe will go inside of the valve at the joint and can be an easier way to identify soldered joints. This is usually the case as well for valves that can be both soldered or threaded - the threads are still visible on the outside of the valve, but the pipe will go inside of the valve at the joint. If you look closely (and it's not too dirty) the solder can sometimes be visible too - usually a silver or dark grey color that's a little different than the copper pipe. Be sure to turn off the water and drain the lines in the house to be safe when working with the valves, though. I'm also not a pro so it might be helpful to give one a call if needed. Super long reply, but hope it helps!
Great, clear as bells. Now, please provide a Time Machine so I can go back and convince the First Plumber to provide the extension (like yours) so I don't have to remove drywall (like me). I'm subscribed!
15:38 right here is why if I was to build my own house, the laundry room would be a 10’x10’ sized room; yes big….but other things end up in laundry area beside the 2 machines. Also c Gives a good owed room for drying rack (so not hanging over and in bathtub/shower), along w/ everyone’s worst laundry thing to do…..iron those clothes; or steam them. Especially if steaming/ironing drapes etc….need along and big area to make life just a bit easier for ya. But seems like in today’s houses, the “laundry room” just barely big enough for washer, dryer, and 1 shelf above the units, if lucky ya might get 2 shelves YIPPEE! Lastly, for any Service Tech (or Homeowner) needing to do some “service work” (dad joke, and bad one at that 😅🤦🏼); having room to maneuver things and get job done is so so SO SO NICE! Cheers✌🏻
A suggestion... Replace any water valve with 1/4 in valve. Think of this - If there is a leak and you immediately need to turn the water off...1) Hear or see leak, 2) run and find leak, 3) turn valve, turn valve, turn valve, turn valve...... That type of valve works well on outdoor faucets, always replace with 1/4 in turn off value. It take just a 1/4 in turn and the water is off....So replace them is my suggestion. Also, another factor that makes turning the water off quickly is the limited space for you turn the valve. I would replace them if you fear another leak.
Thanks for removing the background music. Now we could hear what you are talking. ❤
Top tier stuff. Many thanks for the information!
This is much better edited than your other video- remember, I'd much rather hear you than any music.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave some input!
Good luck!
EDIT/CORRECTION: In the video I mention that ball-valves have to be straight, but there are actually angled ball-valves if you'd prefer a ball-valve and need an angled output.
01:18 - Choosing replacement valves
09:04 - How to replace the valves
16:14 - Summary of the process, tools, and cost
Thank you so much for the video minus the music!!! 😃Really thankful for the details here!!!
I'm glad the video was helpful!
this version of the video is so much better without the distracting music. Thank you.
I can finally hear what you are saying ……
Great video (without the music). Thank you for doing this. My old valves don't show any threads so I'm wondering how they are attached. Any ideas on how to find out?
Thanks Aaron! There are so many different configurations out there that it's hard to say. Generally, the four common joints I came across for washing machine valves were threaded into an adapter (like mine), compression, push-to-connect, and soldered (also sometimes called 'sweated'). If the joint is visible, here are a few things that I used to check to see if it's one of those four (If you have a valve box on the wall like mine, you might need to remove the faceplate to be able to see the joint between the valve and the pipe unless it's already exposed like mine were). For threaded, if they're screwed in, there will usually be an adapter on the pipe that the valve is screwed into, which is one of the most obvious giveaways that the valve is screwed on. If the valves are mounted flush to the box, the threads and adapter may be just below the box in the wall and might not be visible though. The faceplate might need to be removed as I mentioned. Compression joints usually have a large nut that's slightly larger in diameter than the pipe as it's screwed on over the pipe. I found this to be an easy identifier for this type of joint - Google 'washing machine compression valve' and you'll see the nut I'm talking about. The push-to-connect usually have a distinctly larger collar where the pipe is pushed into the valve that makes them stand out - you can also Google 'push to connect washing machine valve' and you'll see the collar. If the valve is soldered on, the pipe will go inside of the valve at the joint and can be an easier way to identify soldered joints. This is usually the case as well for valves that can be both soldered or threaded - the threads are still visible on the outside of the valve, but the pipe will go inside of the valve at the joint. If you look closely (and it's not too dirty) the solder can sometimes be visible too - usually a silver or dark grey color that's a little different than the copper pipe. Be sure to turn off the water and drain the lines in the house to be safe when working with the valves, though. I'm also not a pro so it might be helpful to give one a call if needed. Super long reply, but hope it helps!
DUuuhh, thanks brother, should of seen this video first....than the other valve..Both great Videos(no music...) nice and Mahalo again
Great, clear as bells. Now, please provide a Time Machine so I can go back and convince the First Plumber to provide the extension (like yours) so I don't have to remove drywall (like me). I'm subscribed!
A time machine would certainly be nice haha. Thanks for watching and supporting the channel Douglas!
Fantastic video. THANK YOU!!!
••••Tip - slide a piece of cardboard under your appliance. You can then slide it straight out and about.
That sounds like a much easier way to move the machine around. Thanks for leaving the tip Patricia!
Absolutely great informative video ( without the music)
Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!
15:38 right here is why if I was to build my own house, the laundry room would be a 10’x10’ sized room; yes big….but other things end up in laundry area beside the 2 machines.
Also c
Gives a good owed room for drying rack (so not hanging over and in bathtub/shower), along w/ everyone’s worst laundry thing to do…..iron those clothes; or steam them. Especially if steaming/ironing drapes etc….need along and big area to make life just a bit easier for ya.
But seems like in today’s houses, the “laundry room” just barely big enough for washer, dryer, and 1 shelf above the units, if lucky ya might get 2 shelves YIPPEE!
Lastly, for any Service Tech (or Homeowner) needing to do some “service work” (dad joke, and bad one at that 😅🤦🏼); having room to maneuver things and get job done is so so SO SO NICE!
Cheers✌🏻
A little extra room can be a lot of help sometimes. Thanks for watching!
A suggestion... Replace any water valve with 1/4 in valve. Think of this - If there is a leak and you immediately need to turn the water off...1) Hear or see leak, 2) run and find leak, 3) turn valve, turn valve, turn valve, turn valve...... That type of valve works well on outdoor faucets, always replace with 1/4 in turn off value. It take just a 1/4 in turn and the water is off....So replace them is my suggestion. Also, another factor that makes turning the water off quickly is the limited space for you turn the valve. I would replace them if you fear another leak.
Came here because there was no music
Glad the music free version was helpful!
I am calling a plumber but I appreciate the video.
Thanks for watching!
note to self: fill several jugs of water before removing valves.
Thanks for watching!