Excellent video, clear to see and to follow along with. This is just what I was looking for. I have a rear door actuator to replace, not a front door actuator like most other videos show. Thanks for taking to the time to make this and sharing how to do it!
I did it! I replaced the rear passenger side door lock actuator on my 2010 Accord - using your video, in about an hour and a half. And that's including stopping between steps to watch the next part of your video. I also noticed your trick of using electrical tape to hold down the foam anti-vibration tape. Thanks for making the video. It was the only one and the best one that I could find anywhere. When the actuator was broken, and I would get up to 9 mph, THE DOOR WOULD TRY TO LOCK ITSELF. Over and over. Problem fixed! -Jeff
Best instructional video ever. Finished back door; on to the front. Are there major differences with the procedure for the front door other than more electrical clips? Update: if you have an 08-09 accord, the part number is different than the 10-11 and it’s more expensive. However, the same back door actuator fits all years 08-11. Here is the part number for the passenger rear door: 72610-TC0-T12.
sunnyinanthem Thanks! Not sure about any differences on the front ones. Haven’t needed to do those yet, so post a comment if you have any tips. I think I’ll need to do them soon since I can hear them struggling to operate now.
Just did the front drivers side door. The panel and electrical clip removal process was nearly identical, except you’ll have to remove the tweeter panel in the top right corner, which is just clipped in. And there are just more wire clips inside the door. The removal of the actuator is a bit different and took me an hour to figure out. There is a blue cable that elbows into the bottom of the actuator and it was a bear to figure out how to remove it. You need to first remove the #10 bolt on the door that holds the window guide bracket so that you can maneuver around the window guide. The cable has a sleeve on it that slides over the end of the cable and it clips it to the actuator. Slide that sleeve away from the actuator over the cable and then the cable will slide out of the actuator. If done right it’s relatively easy but it is tough to figure out with low visibility. Also, it was harder to slide the actuator down off the lock rod because the rod flares at the tip. It takes a reasonable downward tug to get it off the rod. Also, be careful with the pin screw that holds the actuator in place from the inside of the door-use a standard size screwdriver on that one or you’ll strip it. By the way, I used an aftermarket actuator on the front door which was a mistake. It works fine but it sounds and feels a bit different when opening and closing the door and I’m wondering how long it’ll last. Should have spent the extra 30 bucks. Oh, and I finally turned off that auto lock feature (TH-cam instructions) which should save he actuators from now on. Let me know how it goes!
@@sunnyinanthem Good call on the differences with the front. I've made a quick video clip of the removal of that cable. (It IS very difficult to get a feel for what is supposed to happen when you can't see and can barely move.) th-cam.com/video/AsELi8-dqKI/w-d-xo.html
The original actuator on my 2009 Accord has 6 electrical connector pins, but the part from the dealer only has two pins. The part works fine though. The Honda part number is 72610-TA0-A01. It was for the right rear door lock actuator.
I have never removed this Gen of Accord door handle, but I need to. It doesn’t want to come off… maybe I need to remove the entire panel? I hope not. Anyway did you happen to notice this when yin removed the panel? Thanks.
To remove the inner door handle I think you will need to take whole panel off. Check the 4 minute mark. Fortunately it’s not much work taking the panel off.
I just discovered a little trick if it is the drivers(master lock) Just disconnect the lock wire and THen the FOB will work fine. The acuator will work again for a while longer. How much longer. I don;t know. TO be seen. . :-)
What was the problem before replacement? Lock/unlock not work, but you hear a sound under the dash? Not work with the key AND the door lock button?? Or just the key unlock/lock not working?
I used the key remote to try to unlock the doors but only the two doors in the back unlock but when I press the lock bottom none of the doors respond. Also when I use the lock panel on the driver side to try to lock/unlock none of the doors respond. What could be the problem sir? Please help
Wwjcd not sure exactly what could be the issue. It sounds like it could be a combination of things based on what you describe. But you should be able to tell when the actuators are failing by the way they sound (long, whining locking sound; instead of a crisp, sharp sound like when they're new). If the actuators sound bad you might start by replacing them and see if that does it. If not, there may be other electrical issues.
Got it direct from Honda dealer so I want to say it was about $80-90, but you may be able to find cheaper online from HondaPartsNow.com, JCWhitney.com, rockauto.com, etc...
Thanks for this, the part about using a power drill for the actuator-door screws was very helpful. To note for folks who have Civics without the small panel under the armrest with the window control, the entire trim piece comes off, and there's a philips screw under that. A bit different than the video but still 3 screws total on the inside door trim panel.
@@vandertxthere are 2 pieces attached to the actuator and you only showed the lock rod. Idk what the other one is called but you didn’t explain removing or reconnecting it. I found it to be quite difficult to remove and reconnect but I figured it out. I was upset because I came to this video specifically to see how you removed that piece.
@@ScagAteHerHmmm... interesting. It's been a while, but I don't know of any other components I had on mine besides the rod and the cables referenced at 7:58.
buttons key fob will not unlock or lock doors have to use regular key in door to lock and unlock is this an actuator issue does each door have an actuator? If so how do you know what one needs to be replaced if one door is not locked you do not get a beep ... check all doors all locked press button you will hear a beep and light on dash inside car will flash then you know car is secure. thanks excellent video I have a 2012 Acura TSX
Hi, how do I know which actuator is bad? My 2009 Accord sedan, the two back doors are occasionally not unlocked when I hit the driver side to unlock all four doors, only the two front are unlocked. Thus is that mean I need to replace the two on back or the front left is controlled all four?. Please help, thanks.
Steve Nguyen each door has it's own actuator inside the door. So if the two back doors don't unlock then they each will need a new actuator (not the driver's door).
I’m having an issue need help anyone I changed the actuator and everything works but when I go ahead and put the key to open the door it won’t open any advice
I'm getting ready to replace mine and I can't turn the key in the door... Wonder if the door lock cylinder is bad too... I recently had to replace that on my son's 2005 civic.
Wires747 the inside manual lever by the door handle worked. But the rocker switch on the door pad by the power window switches didn’t work, neither did the fob...those are controlled electronically, which is what pointed me to the actuator as the problem.
Wires747 no, a new actuator wouldn’t fix that. But the video shows how to disassemble the lever, cables and rods from inside the door, which may be where your problem lies.
What was the exact issue you had to replace the actuator? My rear drivers side door lock won't work if I use the drivers or passengers side door lock button. All the other doors seem to lock and unlock. Could this be the actuator for the rear drivers side? Thanks for your help.
Mastroz my locks were very slow to actuate and sometimes didn’t even work no matter which button I used, on the doors or on the fob, which pointed me to the actuators themselves. If your locks work fine with one button but not another then I would guess it is something else within the electrical system.
@@vandertx The back drivers door lock will not work with the fob or pressing the button within the car. I have to manually lock and unlock it. There other doors lock and unlock with keyfob or using the door controls. Do you think it's the actuator for my problem?
@@Mastroz1 If the inside lock lever on that door still operates the lock via the cables, but the fob or front door button won't do it, then yes it is probably the actuator. Do any other locks sound slow to operate or intermittent? Both of my rear door lock actuators started to go at the same time. Now my front locks are operating slow and noisy so I'll probably replace those next.
Quentin Vanderlaan do you mean by using my hand to unlock and lock the door? I can do that with no problem. Just can’t with a fob or using the drivers or passengers switch. I think the drivers side may be acting a little slow. The other side seems fine on the passengers side. Dealer wanted $66. I think it may be best to order one online instead. Maybe I’ll have to pick one up. All the other doors work. I don’t believe they are intermittent
I have a 2008 Honda Accord right hand drive and the front left actuator is bad which is the passenger side. Do you know if I got one from the USA which would be the driver side, will it work?
Jayouth11 I'm sorry I do not know if a U.S. part would work on Aus model but you're logic seems to makes sense. I wouldn't think the door lock actuator would care which side the steering wheel is on, but I'm not sure on that. Suggest you contact a dealer to confirm the right part.
Dealer was charging 400-500$ to fix this problem good thing I looked it up now I can do the job myself thanks for the video
Thks. Mine came broken😢
Thanks for this...replaced the front driver side door...a couple extra steps included but pretty much spot on! Great job!
Awesome video, very helpful, saved $200 in labor costs!
Excellent video, clear to see and to follow along with. This is just what I was looking for. I have a rear door actuator to replace, not a front door actuator like most other videos show. Thanks for taking to the time to make this and sharing how to do it!
I did it! I replaced the rear passenger side door lock actuator on my 2010 Accord - using your video, in about an hour and a half. And that's including stopping between steps to watch the next part of your video. I also noticed your trick of using electrical tape to hold down the foam anti-vibration tape. Thanks for making the video. It was the only one and the best one that I could find anywhere. When the actuator was broken, and I would get up to 9 mph, THE DOOR WOULD TRY TO LOCK ITSELF. Over and over. Problem fixed! -Jeff
Best instructional video ever. Finished back door; on to the front. Are there major differences with the procedure for the front door other than more electrical clips?
Update: if you have an 08-09 accord, the part number is different than the 10-11 and it’s more expensive. However, the same back door actuator fits all years 08-11. Here is the part number for the passenger rear door: 72610-TC0-T12.
sunnyinanthem Thanks! Not sure about any differences on the front ones. Haven’t needed to do those yet, so post a comment if you have any tips. I think I’ll need to do them soon since I can hear them struggling to operate now.
Just did the front drivers side door. The panel and electrical clip removal process was nearly identical, except you’ll have to remove the tweeter panel in the top right corner, which is just clipped in. And there are just more wire clips inside the door. The removal of the actuator is a bit different and took me an hour to figure out. There is a blue cable that elbows into the bottom of the actuator and it was a bear to figure out how to remove it. You need to first remove the #10 bolt on the door that holds the window guide bracket so that you can maneuver around the window guide. The cable has a sleeve on it that slides over the end of the cable and it clips it to the actuator. Slide that sleeve away from the actuator over the cable and then the cable will slide out of the actuator. If done right it’s relatively easy but it is tough to figure out with low visibility. Also, it was harder to slide the actuator down off the lock rod because the rod flares at the tip. It takes a reasonable downward tug to get it off the rod. Also, be careful with the pin screw that holds the actuator in place from the inside of the door-use a standard size screwdriver on that one or you’ll strip it. By the way, I used an aftermarket actuator on the front door which was a mistake. It works fine but it sounds and feels a bit different when opening and closing the door and I’m wondering how long it’ll last. Should have spent the extra 30 bucks. Oh, and I finally turned off that auto lock feature (TH-cam instructions) which should save he actuators from now on. Let me know how it goes!
@@sunnyinanthem Good call on the differences with the front. I've made a quick video clip of the removal of that cable. (It IS very difficult to get a feel for what is supposed to happen when you can't see and can barely move.) th-cam.com/video/AsELi8-dqKI/w-d-xo.html
The original actuator on my 2009 Accord has 6 electrical connector pins, but the part from the dealer only has two pins. The part works fine though. The Honda part number is 72610-TA0-A01. It was for the right rear door lock actuator.
Thanks for the tip!
About to do this myself. Nice to see someone do a video without a bunch of rambling and taking forever to explain things. Great video. Thanks!
Matthew Bowman Haha, I know, right? I like to get to the point.
thanks bro saved alot of money!
G-Streezy88 glad to hear it!
Glad to hear it!
I have never removed this Gen of Accord door handle, but I need to. It doesn’t want to come off… maybe I need to remove the entire panel? I hope not. Anyway did you happen to notice this when yin removed the panel? Thanks.
To remove the inner door handle I think you will need to take whole panel off. Check the 4 minute mark. Fortunately it’s not much work taking the panel off.
Thank you, I'm sure you've saved me a frustration induced temperament. Yes, #3 Philips bit saves stripping out the screws.
Yep, it's important to have
My hero
Quick update, I bought an Actuator for my 2010 and now it's working! Thanks again for the great video :) Worked like a Champ!
Mastroz awesome! Glad to hear it
Do you gotta change all 4 or can you just change it on the door it don’t lock ?
Thanks again, I have to replace 3 doors worth, so they should all be simillar. Good time to add in some extra soundproofing.
Great video. Thanks!!
I just discovered a little trick if it is the drivers(master lock) Just disconnect the lock wire and THen the FOB will work fine. The acuator will work again for a while longer. How much longer. I don;t know. TO be seen. . :-)
Alexis Tudor what's the lock wire?
Helllp my door if frozen though it wont open same car exact issue any ideas?
ericadennett30 if it won’t open even if you unlock it manually from the inside then it sounds like a different issue
Great video thanks alot
What was the problem before replacement? Lock/unlock not work, but you hear a sound under the dash? Not work with the key AND the door lock button?? Or just the key unlock/lock not working?
It wouldn’t work with the fob buttons. The manual key and switch on the door pad still worked.
I used the key remote to try to unlock the doors but only the two doors in the back unlock but when I press the lock bottom none of the doors respond. Also when I use the lock panel on the driver side to try to lock/unlock none of the doors respond. What could be the problem sir? Please help
Wwjcd not sure exactly what could be the issue. It sounds like it could be a combination of things based on what you describe. But you should be able to tell when the actuators are failing by the way they sound (long, whining locking sound; instead of a crisp, sharp sound like when they're new). If the actuators sound bad you might start by replacing them and see if that does it. If not, there may be other electrical issues.
Outstanding video! How much was the door lock actuator?
Got it direct from Honda dealer so I want to say it was about $80-90, but you may be able to find cheaper online from HondaPartsNow.com, JCWhitney.com, rockauto.com, etc...
Alright thanks.
Could you please link where you got the part. I cannot find the part anywhere online.
I purchased directly from the local Honda dealer, but you may also find them on sites like HondaPartsNow.com, JCWhitney.com, rockauto.com, etc...
Anyone know the little plastic o ring that locks the latch into the door handle? Mine broke because it was so brittle and just shattered
Thanks for this, the part about using a power drill for the actuator-door screws was very helpful. To note for folks who have Civics without the small panel under the armrest with the window control, the entire trim piece comes off, and there's a philips screw under that. A bit different than the video but still 3 screws total on the inside door trim panel.
You skipped a step between peeling off the paper and unscrewing the actuator. That was the step I needed.
Not sure which step you’re referring to?
@@vandertxthere are 2 pieces attached to the actuator and you only showed the lock rod. Idk what the other one is called but you didn’t explain removing or reconnecting it. I found it to be quite difficult to remove and reconnect but I figured it out. I was upset because I came to this video specifically to see how you removed that piece.
@@ScagAteHerHmmm... interesting. It's been a while, but I don't know of any other components I had on mine besides the rod and the cables referenced at 7:58.
buttons key fob will not unlock or lock doors have to use regular key in door to lock and unlock is this an actuator issue does each door have an actuator? If so how do you know what one needs to be replaced if one door is not locked you do not get a beep ... check all doors all locked press button you will hear a beep and light on dash inside car will flash then you know car is secure.
thanks excellent video I have a 2012 Acura TSX
If the locks will operate manually but the fob or the rocker switch doesn’t work then it probably is the actuator. Yes, there is one in each door
Hi, how do I know which actuator is bad?
My 2009 Accord sedan, the two back doors are occasionally not unlocked when I hit the driver side to unlock all four doors, only the two front are unlocked. Thus is that mean I need to replace the two on back or the front left is controlled all four?. Please help, thanks.
Steve Nguyen each door has it's own actuator inside the door. So if the two back doors don't unlock then they each will need a new actuator (not the driver's door).
I’m having an issue need help anyone I changed the actuator and everything works but when I go ahead and put the key to open the door it won’t open any advice
I'm getting ready to replace mine and I can't turn the key in the door...
Wonder if the door lock cylinder is bad too...
I recently had to replace that on my son's 2005 civic.
thank a lot .. thanksssssss
i received mine for the driver door i presume its the exact same way to change it !?
I have not done the front doors yet on mine but I believe it is very similar.
What was the problem with this door? Did the inside door handle not work? Or the lock wouldnt respond with the autolock?
Wires747 the inside manual lever by the door handle worked. But the rocker switch on the door pad by the power window switches didn’t work, neither did the fob...those are controlled electronically, which is what pointed me to the actuator as the problem.
@@vandertx would this fix if the inside lever was not working?
Wires747 no, a new actuator wouldn’t fix that. But the video shows how to disassemble the lever, cables and rods from inside the door, which may be where your problem lies.
What was the exact issue you had to replace the actuator? My rear drivers side door lock won't work if I use the drivers or passengers side door lock button. All the other doors seem to lock and unlock. Could this be the actuator for the rear drivers side? Thanks for your help.
Mastroz my locks were very slow to actuate and sometimes didn’t even work no matter which button I used, on the doors or on the fob, which pointed me to the actuators themselves. If your locks work fine with one button but not another then I would guess it is something else within the electrical system.
@@vandertx The back drivers door lock will not work with the fob or pressing the button within the car. I have to manually lock and unlock it. There other doors lock and unlock with keyfob or using the door controls. Do you think it's the actuator for my problem?
@@Mastroz1 If the inside lock lever on that door still operates the lock via the cables, but the fob or front door button won't do it, then yes it is probably the actuator. Do any other locks sound slow to operate or intermittent? Both of my rear door lock actuators started to go at the same time. Now my front locks are operating slow and noisy so I'll probably replace those next.
Quentin Vanderlaan do you mean by using my hand to unlock and lock the door? I can do that with no problem. Just can’t with a fob or using the drivers or passengers switch. I think the drivers side may be acting a little slow. The other side seems fine on the passengers side. Dealer wanted $66. I think it may be best to order one online instead. Maybe I’ll have to pick one up. All the other doors work. I don’t believe they are intermittent
I have a 2008 Honda Accord right hand drive and the front left actuator is bad which is the passenger side. Do you know if I got one from the USA which would be the driver side, will it work?
Jayouth11 I'm sorry I do not know if a U.S. part would work on Aus model but you're logic seems to makes sense. I wouldn't think the door lock actuator would care which side the steering wheel is on, but I'm not sure on that. Suggest you contact a dealer to confirm the right part.