When scanning, a repetitive pattern like the fixture table you have the part on will confuse the software. If you covered the holes with a towel, or something with non-repetitive texture, it wouldn't be as likely to have problems. Scanning tires is kind of the same thing, it can get lost. If you want to avoid the issue entirely, but also increase the accuracy, tracking dots are necessary. I know nobody likes using them, but they do make a difference. The Einstar does a great job with large parts like a full car scanning at 1.5mm. You can still make out part numbers at that resolution on a lot of parts like mufflers, control arms, etc. I typically use the texture mode even though I don't use the texture. I think it improves the tracking. I also always turn the quality indicator on. You can quickly eliminate the incorrect data by selecting it and deleting it, then start scanning again and it will realign to the existing scan data. Just correct the problem if it was caused by a repetitive pattern before you continue.
Holy crap! A guy that truly understands metrology, reverse engineering, and design for purpose. Truly top notch info. Einstar needs to engage you to review their other models.
It would be nice to have an undo option, but just by deleting with the shift it takes you one second and you choose what to delete, and the undo will delete everything of the last 30 seconds, and maybe you have good parts that delete too. I prefer to choose with the shift using the lazo, and keep scanning again.
Excellent info. Much appreciated. I'm just now learning my Einstar and you're right; you're very much on your own to learn its patterns. But that happens pretty quickly and I'm really happy with the quality. This thing is well worth the price and very useful.
They now have an undo button. Also you can delete part of scan by selecting it. Also, new version also has texture alignment, which if you have gaffer tape with hand written numbers or letters, it can use that for alignment. Of course you could also use reflective markers and 3D scanning spray.
I've been looking at a number of these reviews of these entry level scanners, and finally found yours. My full time job, I use Creaform Handyscan and Faro arm, and have often wondered about the accuracy of some of these $1000 scanners. Yours answered my question. I'm actually more impressed then I would have expected, especially for the money. I completely agree with your assessment of this unit. Definately wouldn't want to use it for high end engineering / reverse engineering, but looks like it would work well for some work with not as high specifications. I reverse die blocks, and have clearances of typically 0.1 to 0.2mm cutting clearance, so wouldn't work for that, but would work great for some home projects or even less critical die components. (raw castings is a good example) Thanks for the great info.
Yep, Its great for the price. It struggles on small parts. The software is lacking but apparently the new update is great, I havent tried it yet though.
I looked at the Creaform to augment our FARO Scan Arm with the HD scanner. Passed on it due to the target requirements. I can’t get anybody to use the scan arm as it is. Probing is just too easy, plus FARO supplies a calibration plate that isn’t hardly big enough to calibrate the full scan envelope in both directions, so that’s a headache. These guys don’t even know the pain of the little red line ES scanner from back in the day. I’m thinking about checking welding fixtures and doing warpage studies on parts without dragging out 100lbs of portable CMM. Pretty exciting.
@ I started with the red line laser on a edge arm. I’ve traveled all over the country with that damn thing. I just flew with this einstar scanner and man it all fits in a tiny harbor freight case. I may do a comparison soon with the einstar and a new faro blue laser of the same part at the same time, possibly with and without targets.
Nice video, good walk through of using the Einstar. Slight correction: Design X _does_ allow you to compare two mesh bodies using "Mesh Deviation" function. You're right, however, that the Accuracy Analyzer will not.
You should checkout the new Creality hybrid scanner. It has both NIR (near infrared) and 7 line laser scanning. It is the first consumer metrology grade scanner. As it is right now at release, it’s accurate to 1 thousand of an inch(0.02mm). At $1500US it’s a bit crazy, as the equivalent professional metrology grade hybrid 3d scanner is ten times the price. Please buy one and do a follow up comparison, the exactly the same way as this video. Great video! I was about to buy an Einstar scanner until the Creality Raptor 3d scanner was released. 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🍀☮️
problem with the raptor is the FOV and the amount of markers you need, also every maker costs you some surface detail, i would get a used einscan HX, more expensive but sooo much better also NIR mode on the raptor is shit, creality otter is way better at that so only the laser mode is good for something but only small stuff
@@austrian_s60r64you would need markers for the EinscanHX in laser mode too. The only difference is the HX has cross lasers and better software but cost much, much more. I used NIR mode to scan a mobile AC last week to add duct work for the input and output air. Wasn’t that bad. Some tracking losses (feature mode) but no ghost capture date. Worked out fine.
True. The problem I find with that is there is usually data misaligned somewhere you don't see or notice until later. This particular case I could have deleted that one section.
For your base model using the Creaform Black Elite Scanner did you use targets to help the alignment of the scan data or was that done using just features? Must say I'm very impressed by the accuracy of the Einstar scanner when put alongside a much more expensive option.
Watching now. FYI brightness is expsoure of the actual scanner not those LEDs. Those LEDs only turn on if you are scanning in texture more. Otherwise they are off.
It’s a Cost benefit analysis and case of diminishing returns you could spend $2000 to get 0.1 accuracy or $78000 more to get down to 0.02accuracy . It comes down to what your scanning 4 thou off plus or minus is 0.2mm off actual so if your looking to scan a dash for a 3d caddy or foot well or bumper you’re probably pretty good with cheapy. Have you seen the creality raptor? That has 7 blue laser lines for 1500. The guy “Payo” has a few vids on that and the otter. I swore to never buy Chinese stuff if I can avoid (due to monopolist approach and potential to be a major adversary in the next few years) But when the next closet scanner is $8000us plus. For the peel scanner it’s hard to go past. I’m in Australia so we pay 70% more on exchange rate so it’s 2300 vs 13000AUD plus duty and import fees landed. I’m debating on ordering the creality raptor and hope I don’t get burned - use it for learning and establish time of use. Ie if I use every day vs 1 per month. If use lots and getting paid fir use then worth getting a handy scan black elite limited.
What's happened is the fabrication table has seen symmetry and decided it's in a different place. Put a few markers on the table randomly and go again. Use hybrid mode with features and markers You can scan alot easier than something like a revopoint scanner so I don't miss the undo button at all. It is a pleasure to use in my opinion 👍
It's not bad. Certain parts it can really be a pain and I have to use targets. For the price I think it's pretty excellent. I have never used the revpoint scanners as they didn't appeal to me.
There is a new software out. I think at the time you made the video it was already live. With this version you can rewind the scan. But it takes a lot of time rewinding. Be patient..
Looking at your ghosting issue, where it created doubled up geometry, maybe your fixture table is causing the issue, as the fixture holes are perfectly symmetrical in all directions. 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🍀☮️
Hello, I purchased this scanner a while back but I haven't purchased a laptop yet to use with the scanner. Do you have any suggestions about which laptops would be a good choice? Thank you
High end gaming laptop with 64gb with NVIDIA gpu or a Gaming Laptop with a 3000 Nvidia gpu with 16gb and do the point cloud merging on a powerful desktop PC with 64gb ram. Or buy a CR Otter. 16GB ram should be enough and a IGPU is working too. But it could reduce scan fps.
Translation If you compare the accuracy of the scanner at the beginning of work and after 1 hour, as it heats up, you will be surprised at how large the error is. As an Einstar owner, I am very disappointed with this scanner, especially after buying the Ender. Yes, Creality has bad software, but Einstar's software is not perfect either - you won't be able to scan a car in 0.2 resolution, the algorithms won't be able to build a mesh. But Ender with its terrible software can do it, and the accuracy of Ender according to my measurements is ultimately higher than that of Einstar.
I use it for all sorts of things. Cars and motorcycles are primarily what I work on / build so that's about it for me. You can go to my other videos and see the type of work I do.
@@cgbyrobert Some parts are 3d printed as a prototype and then machined. Alot of the scan data is then modeled into something usable and not 3d printed. Im designing new front brakes for my honda racebike right now and 3d printing the caliper mounts. Once the design is finalized the model will be sent off to be printed in aluminum.
@@TMBchopshop wow so one can actually get things printed in aluminum! Very cool. I'm just into visual effects myself but is thinking about building a camper van. This could be handy.
When you say you have to delete and start over again because you don't have a return button, you are wrong in that, if the scanner makes something wrong and creates something that is not there, you just need to press and hold Shift down and mark the area (with the lazo) that is wrong with the left click of the mouse, and delete that area, and once done, you can keep scanning.
@@ARTpocalypseStudio I understand that and I use it often. The problem is usually it places data over the good data and I'm selecting so much to delete its usually easier to start over. Not always but usually.
When scanning, a repetitive pattern like the fixture table you have the part on will confuse the software. If you covered the holes with a towel, or something with non-repetitive texture, it wouldn't be as likely to have problems. Scanning tires is kind of the same thing, it can get lost. If you want to avoid the issue entirely, but also increase the accuracy, tracking dots are necessary. I know nobody likes using them, but they do make a difference.
The Einstar does a great job with large parts like a full car scanning at 1.5mm. You can still make out part numbers at that resolution on a lot of parts like mufflers, control arms, etc.
I typically use the texture mode even though I don't use the texture. I think it improves the tracking. I also always turn the quality indicator on.
You can quickly eliminate the incorrect data by selecting it and deleting it, then start scanning again and it will realign to the existing scan data. Just correct the problem if it was caused by a repetitive pattern before you continue.
This review feels like the most honest I ve come across
Holy crap! A guy that truly understands metrology, reverse engineering, and design for purpose. Truly top notch info. Einstar needs to engage you to review their other models.
Good breakdown, thanks for sharing. I agree, they really need to implement an undo function on the program
It would be nice.
It would be nice to have an undo option, but just by deleting with the shift it takes you one second and you choose what to delete, and the undo will delete everything of the last 30 seconds, and maybe you have good parts that delete too. I prefer to choose with the shift using the lazo, and keep scanning again.
Excellent info. Much appreciated. I'm just now learning my Einstar and you're right; you're very much on your own to learn its patterns. But that happens pretty quickly and I'm really happy with the quality. This thing is well worth the price and very useful.
This is an absolutely amazing comparison. This gives me excellent confidence in buying one of these devices.
They now have an undo button. Also you can delete part of scan by selecting it. Also, new version also has texture alignment, which if you have gaffer tape with hand written numbers or letters, it can use that for alignment. Of course you could also use reflective markers and 3D scanning spray.
I've been looking at a number of these reviews of these entry level scanners, and finally found yours. My full time job, I use Creaform Handyscan and Faro arm, and have often wondered about the accuracy of some of these $1000 scanners. Yours answered my question. I'm actually more impressed then I would have expected, especially for the money. I completely agree with your assessment of this unit. Definately wouldn't want to use it for high end engineering / reverse engineering, but looks like it would work well for some work with not as high specifications. I reverse die blocks, and have clearances of typically 0.1 to 0.2mm cutting clearance, so wouldn't work for that, but would work great for some home projects or even less critical die components. (raw castings is a good example) Thanks for the great info.
Yep, Its great for the price. It struggles on small parts. The software is lacking but apparently the new update is great, I havent tried it yet though.
I looked at the Creaform to augment our FARO Scan Arm with the HD scanner. Passed on it due to the target requirements. I can’t get anybody to use the scan arm as it is. Probing is just too easy, plus FARO supplies a calibration plate that isn’t hardly big enough to calibrate the full scan envelope in both directions, so that’s a headache. These guys don’t even know the pain of the little red line ES scanner from back in the day.
I’m thinking about checking welding fixtures and doing warpage studies on parts without dragging out 100lbs of portable CMM. Pretty exciting.
@ I started with the red line laser on a edge arm. I’ve traveled all over the country with that damn thing. I just flew with this einstar scanner and man it all fits in a tiny harbor freight case. I may do a comparison soon with the einstar and a new faro blue laser of the same part at the same time, possibly with and without targets.
Nice video, good walk through of using the Einstar. Slight correction: Design X _does_ allow you to compare two mesh bodies using "Mesh Deviation" function. You're right, however, that the Accuracy Analyzer will not.
exceeded my expectations too , love the einscan , fantastic comparison vid
really good review and impressive result for a first try scan
Great info and comparison methodology. I would be interested in seeing a comparison of same day/conditions scan like you mentioned!
I'm planning on it, probably with a faro arm in a metrology lab. Just need to figure out what part to scan that I actually need to scan.
You should compare with marker alignment with the Einstar
Fantastic analysis. Thank you!
the end double scan error was from the two clamp bolt features, the scanner at some point mistook the left bolt area as the right one.
much appreciated the video. i am thinking of getting the scanner to reverse engineer commercial door hardware.
You should checkout the new Creality hybrid scanner. It has both NIR (near infrared) and 7 line laser scanning.
It is the first consumer metrology grade scanner. As it is right now at release, it’s accurate to 1 thousand of an inch(0.02mm).
At $1500US it’s a bit crazy, as the equivalent professional metrology grade hybrid 3d scanner is ten times the price.
Please buy one and do a follow up comparison, the exactly the same way as this video.
Great video!
I was about to buy an Einstar scanner until the Creality Raptor 3d scanner was released.
🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🍀☮️
problem with the raptor is the FOV and the amount of markers you need, also every maker costs you some surface detail, i would get a used einscan HX, more expensive but sooo much better also NIR mode on the raptor is shit, creality otter is way better at that so only the laser mode is good for something but only small stuff
@@austrian_s60r64you would need markers for the EinscanHX in laser mode too. The only difference is the HX has cross lasers and better software but cost much, much more.
I used NIR mode to scan a mobile AC last week to add duct work for the input and output air. Wasn’t that bad. Some tracking losses (feature mode) but no ghost capture date. Worked out fine.
There may not be a "undo" but thereust be a way to select and delete unwanted data as you're going
True. The problem I find with that is there is usually data misaligned somewhere you don't see or notice until later. This particular case I could have deleted that one section.
What the name of the reverse engineering software? I notice there is a Solidworks plugin.
@@bwfrench2616 geomagic design x
For your base model using the Creaform Black Elite Scanner did you use targets to help the alignment of the scan data or was that done using just features? Must say I'm very impressed by the accuracy of the Einstar scanner when put alongside a much more expensive option.
Just features. I'm also impressed.
Watching now. FYI brightness is expsoure of the actual scanner not those LEDs. Those LEDs only turn on if you are scanning in texture more. Otherwise they are off.
Thanks. Good to know
For a scanner that's 1/70 of the price it's indeed quite impressive.
We use an Einscan Pro 2X Plus. It produces quite good scans.
Great video! Are you using Geomagic software?
yes Geomagic Design X
It’s a Cost benefit analysis and case of diminishing returns you could spend $2000 to get 0.1 accuracy or $78000 more to get down to 0.02accuracy . It comes down to what your scanning 4 thou off plus or minus is 0.2mm off actual so if your looking to scan a dash for a 3d caddy or foot well or bumper you’re probably pretty good with cheapy.
Have you seen the creality raptor? That has 7 blue laser lines for 1500. The guy “Payo” has a few vids on that and the otter.
I swore to never buy Chinese stuff if I can avoid (due to monopolist approach and potential to be a major adversary in the next few years) But when the next closet scanner is $8000us plus. For the peel scanner it’s hard to go past. I’m in Australia so we pay 70% more on exchange rate so it’s 2300 vs 13000AUD plus duty and import fees landed.
I’m debating on ordering the creality raptor and hope I don’t get burned - use it for learning and establish time of use. Ie if I use every day vs 1 per month. If use lots and getting paid fir use then worth getting a handy scan black elite limited.
Great video! Thank you!
What's happened is the fabrication table has seen symmetry and decided it's in a different place. Put a few markers on the table randomly and go again. Use hybrid mode with features and markers
You can scan alot easier than something like a revopoint scanner so I don't miss the undo button at all. It is a pleasure to use in my opinion 👍
It's not bad. Certain parts it can really be a pain and I have to use targets. For the price I think it's pretty excellent. I have never used the revpoint scanners as they didn't appeal to me.
There is a new software out. I think at the time you made the video it was already live. With this version you can rewind the scan. But it takes a lot of time rewinding. Be patient..
Looking at your ghosting issue, where it created doubled up geometry, maybe your fixture table is causing the issue, as the fixture holes are perfectly symmetrical in all directions.
🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🍀☮️
Off by .003 in a grage kicks ass.
Hello, I purchased this scanner a while back but I haven't purchased a laptop yet to use with the scanner. Do you have any suggestions about
which laptops would be a good choice? Thank you
High end gaming laptop with 64gb with NVIDIA gpu or a Gaming Laptop with a 3000 Nvidia gpu with 16gb and do the point cloud merging on a powerful desktop PC with 64gb ram.
Or buy a CR Otter. 16GB ram should be enough and a IGPU is working too. But it could reduce scan fps.
@@Todestelzer Thank You
Hi, what software are using for reverse engineering?
Try Geomagic Design X
What fixture table do you have?
@@skrunsthestreets I built the table. The frame is 3x5 .250" wall and the top is 1.25" surfaced to .004" flat with 1/2-20 holes every 2 inches.
What software are you using to create the model
Geomagic Design X
Translation
If you compare the accuracy of the scanner at the beginning of work and after 1 hour, as it heats up, you will be surprised at how large the error is. As an Einstar owner, I am very disappointed with this scanner, especially after buying the Ender. Yes, Creality has bad software, but Einstar's software is not perfect either - you won't be able to scan a car in 0.2 resolution, the algorithms won't be able to build a mesh. But Ender with its terrible software can do it, and the accuracy of Ender according to my measurements is ultimately higher than that of Einstar.
I see a lot of car people demoing it. What do you use the models for?
I use it for all sorts of things. Cars and motorcycles are primarily what I work on / build so that's about it for me. You can go to my other videos and see the type of work I do.
But do you 3d print parts then? If so, how do you use it when it's fragile plastic?
@@cgbyrobert Some parts are 3d printed as a prototype and then machined. Alot of the scan data is then modeled into something usable and not 3d printed. Im designing new front brakes for my honda racebike right now and 3d printing the caliper mounts. Once the design is finalized the model will be sent off to be printed in aluminum.
@@TMBchopshop wow so one can actually get things printed in aluminum! Very cool. I'm just into visual effects myself but is thinking about building a camper van. This could be handy.
@@cgbyrobert Its not very cost effective yet but maybe one day. Im sticking to small parts because of this.
When you say you have to delete and start over again because you don't have a return button, you are wrong in that, if the scanner makes something wrong and creates something that is not there, you just need to press and hold Shift down and mark the area (with the lazo) that is wrong with the left click of the mouse, and delete that area, and once done, you can keep scanning.
@@ARTpocalypseStudio I understand that and I use it often. The problem is usually it places data over the good data and I'm selecting so much to delete its usually easier to start over. Not always but usually.
You just sold me on this scanner
So it's accurate . .02 mm...I't not made for microns come on.
:D
What software did you use to surface the scan?
@@PiotrSlabiak geomagic design x