This has the be one of the best channels for learning this kind of content! Great teacher, good tips, the length of the videos are just the right length, and he has a good sense of humor. I had to tell my wife, "I bet his wife was behind the camera" at 2:50s we both laughed.
Always appreciate the explanations on using different products for different situations. They say the devil is in the details. That’s why I keep coming back to these videos. Do it right the first time & save money at the same time.
Thank you for so much excellent advice. Thanks to your suggestions I've quickly "graduated" from using smaller taping knifes to 14 inch trowel and hawk, this has made my kitchen and partial basement renovation so much easier and actually fun.
Really good video Ben. I've been watching you for well over a year and just refinished a bathroom. It's these final little finishing touches that really make the job seem WOW at the end. I'm DIY and it wasn't my first rodeo but I still didn't realize to use spackle instead of just mud for these. Core Viewer! Keep up the great work.
I think the phrase you are looking for is solids by volume or solids by weight. I couldn't find either measurement for drywall mud, but Dap DryDex is 77% solids by weight. Most high quality latex paints are 30-35% so I'd guess all purpose drywall mud is about half way in between, around 55-60%.
I keep finding myself back on your channel over others. Very informative and made in a great way that doesn't make me wanna skip portions of the video. Keep up the awesome work!
That’s why I use the pink stuff as a final finish coat. It goes on totally smooth and sands easy. If you put it on right there’s virtually nothing to sand. And as you say after you paint the first coat and see all the defects its the perfect fix for that. Especially if you are remodeling a room and just patched a dozen nail holes. There are always dents and divots. With the pink stuff I can take a beat up old wall and make it look new again.
Drydex is for small holes and dents. Mud is for taping. Cost is the difference. Mud has to be sealed before painting. Drydex doesn't. It sands just as easy. And it dries faster. When the sealer coat goes on, the mud is put away. It's that simple. I would use Drydex for small mud & tape hole patches, to patch repair holes in gyproc. It dries faster and can be top coated after final sanding
The first big patch job I did was my kitchen ceiling. It was horrible. I swore off ever using the pink stuff. I still need to redo everything. I wonder if I was really using spackle!
You can add PVA to dry wall ready mix mud. Yes it works for filling defects in walls with out pulling out.Easy to sand, nicer to work with, than spackle.
Love this channel. I didn't hear anything I didn't already know in this video. I just wanted watch Mr relatable Ben. He's gotta be the nicest most relatable tradesman on TH-cam. Stay golden ponyboy :)
Two tricks : if you pull the Drydex straight, it digs some out, but if you slice the knife sideways a bit, it leaves the hole fuller, not always requiring a second coat. As you work, the tub is losing moisture, so before capping it, pour it full of water, and dump the water out before capping, and it will be perfectly workable next use.
I gave up on Dry-Dex, then came back to it. Its great for small repairs if you can let it dry for a few days, as a professional painter I prefer quick setting mud and all purpose but I always keep a small tub of it around. Major plus is that is sands easy and smoothly.
one mistake i've seen and done myself, is attempting to fix a finished drywall surface- new board or repair, with the drydex, prior to priming. It doesn't sand as easily as drywall mud, so you can end up with a weird irregular surface where you touch up with drydex over mud, and then sand. I do the same, sand out the mud, prime, have a look with some good lighting, do any little touch ups with drydex prior to top coats.
Dude, I have always loved your skate content, and I listened to your nine club episode just recently. I needed to sparkle the wall, and was checking some clips and found your video. This was very helpful.
I used quickset for deficiencies on my last project and it turned out well. I’m planning on doing the same on a big ceiling I’m doing next. Hopefully it turns out as well
Maybe the moisture content (added) in(to) drywall mud can be likened to milk in your cereal? You're really in it for the cereal and you only need enough milk to wet the flakes. Too much just gets in the way and forces you to drink that sloppy concoction when all the flakes are gone.
oh nice...I use the same method in filling up little holes and dings. I just came up with it through trial and error and also found that it provides the best finish. This is especially critical when filling in holes/dings on a newly laid skim coat. Because I found that whenever I tried to press the compound into the hole, I run the risk of compressing the mud. And when I try to sand after, the compressed mud will standout from the surrounding mud
To anyone interested...I had to patch several cut - outs in my walls that were made from running wire from my basement to the top of the basement stairwell (which is pretty far) my basement has 10 foot ceilings. I cut some scrap sheetrock of the same thickness just roughly close to the size of the hole, placed the scrap over the hole, traced it with a pencil and cut out along the pencil line. I then used a hot glue gun around the edges of the patch and pressed it in with a flat piece of wood across it so it ended up exactly flush with the rest of the wall. In summary, the patches are so solid that I could probably punch it and it would break the rest of the wall around it. The best part is, no wood strips of screws to cover up, and the seam is so small that it looks like a pencil line drawn on the wall. You could probably just wipe a very small amount of spackle on the seam. I doubt it would ever crack because its solidly adhered to the sheetrock around it. Just be careful of the hot glue...wear gloves so you dont burn your fingers, and keep in mind, the working time of the glue is very short...if you mess up you can reheat it with a hair dryer of heat gun. If you need to pull it back out, drive a sheetrock screw into it and pull with pliers. This worked so well and so quick with nearly zero mess. I'm sure this would probably work great to patch ceilings too.
I'm interested to hear what this looks like in 5-10 years. There are hangers that use construction adhesive on the studs and only a handful of screws per sheet. I guess it's a similar idea to the hot glue, but less 'scalable' and more working time with the adhesive. But, if it works, it works. Good for you!
Sounds like not a bad idea honestly but if I showed up at a customers house and started hot gluing drywall into the wall I would expect to be promptly kicked out.
....just a little note to add...if you are uncomfortable or not quick enough getting the patch in place before the glue cools off, just fit the patch in the hole, drill some small holes along the seam, and you can press the hot glue gun tip in the holes and squeeze the glue into the seam. This works good too. If you get any glue on the surface to be painted you can usually pick it off with your fingers or you can lightly sand it off.
I don't like to use premixed filler. The Aussie brands tend to swell a tiny bit when the first coat goes on and remains a visible repair to the trained eye. I like to use a dry powder filler (I like the Parfix brand from Bunning) that when mixed goes off like cement. I dab those little dings with my finger.
I was just thinking about this today and wondering whether I should buy some spackle when I have half a bucket of drywall mud. Now I have the answer. Thanks!
When filling little defects like that I often use dap dynaflex. It doesn’t need to be primed to avoid having that hazy look after a topcoat. It’s hard to find all the little defects you patched when the patch and walls are white.
Hey I love your videos and you’ve coached me through some late nights on my own while husband sleeping (first time drywaller here! I wanted to fix the drywall hubby added more of a mess too due to water loss from leaking water heaters (2 were connected together because house used to be a duplex), impacting both bathrooms/ laundry room, our daughters room and our family room! Hubby was trying to do a “fast job” since he thinks we are going to tear current house down in a year to rebuild. Regardless, I just couldn’t handle looking at a “pregnant looking” wall w lots of grid and multiple seams showing through everyday while I do the family’s laundry everyday!). 😎 And it looks SO much better! 🤗 💃🏻 💙🤍 But I did make unfortunately a big dusty mess when I had a sand a lot of it (I mean, it was REALLY bad!!). I’m happy with the improvements and especially since texturing and painting with “Littlr Boy Blue” Sherwin Williams” paint in semi gloss. I mean I was a little OCD about it but that was also because the SW paint guy told me that the gloss was “going to highlight EVERY imperfection”……😬😱 (and, I’m an “ex manufacturing DEFECT engineer” from high tech semiconductor of about 7 yrs before I became full time mom / part time renovator! 😂 So I can’t HELP but totally analysis every different groove and then think deeply about how it became that way to begin with, for “future reference” 🤣 🤓). Anyway you were my TH-cam Angel for quite a few nights and there was something so calming about you I felt I could just give it try. And I did and since, I even used what I learned to improve another area too that we were working on and was pretty darn happy with it….esp since I accidentally got 15 min compound!!! whoops! So THANKYOU!!!! ❤️ 💙🤍 Wish you were Vancouver WA….which is where we live I would be like your shakedown and free laborer just so I could learn like that other carpenter you had on for an episode. That’s how I knew “for sure” I was watching someone who was indeed skilled and knew what they were doing enough for a veteran to learn new techniques also! I’d love to see some videos of maybe your kids or wife helping too because I want to teach my kids theses skills and I love how you have this way of making this stuff FUN (and funny!): it’s very non-intimidating this way for people like me and we really appreciate it. Also last thing rgd the subject at hand: When doing small holes are you adding texture also? If so what is your technique in doing so? Do you prime the repair, then texture (abs using what?), prime again, then do the paint on top (if size of the hole or repair would demand it in your opinion?)? I’ve read that is is ideal to prime mud before texture then texture, and prime again - all to ensure more even absorbtion of whatever you are adding on. I find it’s not that inconvenient for me to do and I’d rather have it be done the best to my ability I can vs it come out looking goofy simply because I was too lazy to add one layer of paint (of several anyway!). What are your thoughts on that? Would you also be willing to do a video where you are doing the texturizing also? Want to see your techniques and how it might change depending on size. You seem like a natural at this and for teaching. Ps you’d be the best wood shop teacher ever (if any schools still doing that! I’ve found few are. I actually almost got a job as an assistant to the one school I know who DOES teach shop - ironically he was my ex boss when I was in engineering and he hired me out of college. He since has “retired” and now teaching MS and HS “makers space” shop classes. Unfortunately I was the second runner up per the principal so I didn’t get the job, so I’m just sticking to learning and doing here at home and also on our 4 plex we own next to our house. My dad was a civil engineer and builder but unfortunately died at 45 when i was 10 otherwise I’d definitely be bugging him about all of this! But somehow I feel like maybe he is still watching over me and controlling my TH-cam (to help me find great teachers like you!). Not that U wanted to know all of this or anything but want you to know your work is apreciated (but would love to see more videos with kids helping out and maybe you can inspire a younger audience as well!). I’d say kids today (and people in general) definitely need more real world teaching and skills they can use and build their confidence in their own abilities to actually attempt to fix or build something themselves vs always relying on someone else.
Just replaced an exterior window sill where some muppet homeowner had used drywall mud to repair and build up severely rotted wood and then painted over. Made demo a breeze with chunks of rotted wood and drywall mud covered in black mold coming off by hand. Western WA coast with 80" of rain/year.
As a painting contractor, with textured walls in my area, I rarely use spackle. Holes in walls with a flat sheen paint is about the only place. With walls that are painted with low sheen eggshell or higher sheen I just use caulking for small nail pin holes. If you use spackle it sucks the moisture from the paint and leaves an unsmooth finish which will show really bad in the sheen of the paint. For filling nail holes in trim, years ago I used spackle or wood filler. Now I found Crawfords painters putty to work MUCH better. You can fill it with either your fingers or a small knife and it doesn't shrink hardly at all. If you fill it just right one or two passes with sand paper and its done.
Question, I'm about to do a small feature wall with a bunch of little spots of torn paper from command strips. Just wondering if there's a better way to prevent the mud from bubbling other than spending $30 on a litre of shellac or oil primer as a sealer since I'll barely use any of it
@@Blingdung if is just small pieces, cut out the loose paper and mud over the top. Some kind of drywall tape wouldn't hurt, again probably could do without if it's a small repair. Primer is best but I have done it many times without.
Love your videos, super informative! I have some plaster crown moulding with some hairline (and some bigger...) cracks that I would like to patch up and paint over. Would DryDex be the recommended material for repairing plaster cracks? Do I need to carve out the hairline cracks to get more DryDex material actually inside to fill up the crack? Thanks!
If you dont wait for paint to cure, The drydex sometimes absorbs the paints moisture and then when you cone back to sand it it feels like rubber and you have heck of a time tryna sand it off.
And then there is hot mud with all the different work times..............that is the same as dry wall mud?. You threw in Dyna Patch and I assume that is dry wall mud and you recommend using it for nail holes in trim not the pink stuff. I have prepared all my walls with the pink stuff, bought all new trim..............so I am hoping that you have guided me well. Thank you.
I’m currently finishing my garage walls (just drywall and taped/muded joints), and I have a bunch of little nail holes left over from where cabinets were removed. Would it be best to use the spackle to fill those and then prime and paint the drywall? Or do a broader cover with drywall compound, then prime and then spackle anything left over and then paint?
Just did a small wall repair job which turned out to be a nightmare the homeowner used drydex and put in the tape meanwhile the Spackle will still pink they requested i sand it and get back to work because they were in a hurry to paint good luck with that cuz now all the tape is falling and the pink pretty much removed majority of the spackle so all the tape is loose mind you he did not use joint compound at all and cut the drywall with a axe lol
Great Video's Ben!, I've watched them all. I'm currently starting my first drywall and mudding job, my garage..Lol. Being a newbie, I have some uneven butt joints, and half inch gaps, and a few extra holes in drywall,when I was looking for studs when I hung the drywall. I bought a bucket of lite all purpose and started mudding last night. This morning I found a lot of shrinkage and cracks, can I let dry and just put another coat over top of the cracks?, how long do I let dry before putting second coat on?, 24 hours?. Also with all these extra screw holes, do I cut the paper pulls off with an olfa knife from when I removed the screw?. One last question, when doing the unevn butt joints do I continue to feather out until flat before I put the tape on?....again great video's Ben keep them coming Read more
Hm. Fairly sure that I can mix Knauf Uniflott to about the consistency of your spackle? But I am not sure that stuff is available in Canada (or anywhere in NA) at all. It generally seems to be somewhere in between your all-purpose-mud and your quickset and then has some attributes that seem like none of your regular mud types have them? Like it can (supposedly) be used without tape (which generally does work out fairly well but isn't always the safest bet). I learned a lot from your videos - but when it comes to mud types, I feel like what we have here in Germany and what you're using are two completely different sets of stuff o.O
There's never an explanation on what kind of paint either can be put on in drywall mud videos on the internet. Will both work on flat paint and semi gloss or do you have to sand first?
If you have a large area, you can use a drywall primer before paint. Imperfections in the drywall/finishing work show much more with glossy paint. My dad's got 40+ years in drywall (framing-to-finishing) and always urges people to use flat/matte paint. (I wonder if that's to cover up mistakes? lol) If you pay attention when you're in buildings and houses, you'll see PLENTY of imperfections. Most guys don't think that last 15-20% to get the job flawless is worth it. A lot of people will point out the 1 spot that was missed and won't let it go until it's fixed. So it goes... You can call up a local painter and ask how he does it.
My question is, I'm a service tech, I do a lot of small repairs. Nobody has shown a good informational video on how to bring egg shell texture back, I can walk in after 2 coats of paint, and tell exactly where the super flat repairs are.
Egg shell is the sheen of the paint (somewhere in the middle of glossy vs flat). Perhaps you mean the bumpy texture that a roller leaves? Or perhaps the repair area appears more dull or even a different colour from the surrounding wall - possibly from no primer on the repair area? I am currious myself if he primes his repairs depending on the area and filling compound used.
@@tighep egg shell is the sheen, but it's also a texture I believe. Either way, the walls have an egg shell type texture. It's not orange peel, it's just from multiple years of roller texture. When I do a repair, I'll put 2 coats of Pro Mar 400 paint (it's what the company buys) and unless I get a heavy nap roller, it would probably take me a dozen coats to bring that texture back. So when you walk in, all the walls have kinda an egg shell texture, and then you have the super flat repairs I've done, and you can spot it from a mile away. Aside from doing a dozen coats of paint, I'd love to know how to bring that texture back as quick as possible and with as less coats as possible. I don't have all day to put a dozen coats on little spots.
@@tighep it really infuriates me after you spend all that time with repairing something and it's hard to match that texture. I've used spray cans of orange peel, and then sanded, it was close, but it's a different texture.
If you are talking about seeing the texture of the old roller vs the smooth new repair it is virtually impossible. The older houses with dozens of coats of paint end up having walls that look like the skin of an avocado. It sucks because all the modern paints have such small particulates to aid with leveling and flow. The only way I've been able to get close is to use an oil primer with a traditional sleeve(not a microfibre) to try to build up the paint texture. If you're stuck using latex try going back to the patches and dry rolling right before they flash off with a thick nap. My region switched to almost exclusive low sheen paints and it isn't as much of an issue anymore.
Can you use Spackle for other things? Would it work on wood? to sand the surface smooth? Wood putty I have the same problem, when I put it on. Maybe I am doing it wrong.
Thanks. That clarified it for me. Question: what do I use around the shower where the water has Deteriorated the drywall a bit? Thanks for all the great info
Be careful with water damage. If that area is in a splash zone or high moisture zone, you need to protect your drywall by tanking it with stuff like RedGard, or even better - use something waterproof like tile backer instead of drywall. It may be wiser to extend your tiled area a bit. If water could be a recurring issue, you need to address the root cause first, otherwise it will come back (and there could be worse damage hidden under the drywall). If it's on the ceiling, look into better ventilation to get rid of the extra moisture that is causing damage.
Why not use sparkle for big projects instead of drywall mud? Base on your explanation, it just seems superior and you can just add some water to make it easier to spread like drywall mud, right?
I have a question. I have dime size holes in my wall as well as drywall paper that is ripped. I watched the drywall paper repair video and saw that you used drywall mud for the paper repair. Silly question is can spackle be used to repair drywall paper similar to mudd?
I have a friend who insists on using spackle the pink stuff for taping his joints. He likes it but I would be afraid to follow his recommendations to do likewise.
Perhaps mixing a bit of wall color latex paint into a bit of Spackle to fill those little holes and blemishes would kill two birds at the same time. It would help get colors to match up on the sanded finish.
I wonder if this was created in response to that YT Short video floating around where the 'drywallers' called the joint compound spackle and everyone started throwing in their 2 cents about the correct terminology. It couldn't have been much more than a month ago. At any rate, thanks for another quality video.
@@vancouvercarpenter Buncha weirdoes... Good thing I'm safe from that wild talk here in Cleveland suburbia. :D It's so interesting how that kind of thing catches on and spreads.
As a Brit, I never heard of Spackle. Where does plaster sit in the list? We tend to have plaster walls over lathe. Not so much drywall in older houses.
Plaster is a lot closer to cement than drywall mud is. Plaster is nearly impossible to sand, extremely hard, but it gives you a superior wall finish. I've used a sawzall on plaster and the serrated blade comes out looking like a smooth butter knife after a few minutes. I view it as lite cement LOL
These terms don't mean the same things in Commonwealth countries as North America :( In North America, we have joint compound and plaster (including Venetian plaster and veneer plaster and plastic of paris), and they are both cementitious gypsum products with differing compositions. I think that you would call our "joint compound" a plaster, but I am not sure. Spackle clasically contains [some amount of] vinyl, comes pre-mixed (some joint compounds do, some do not), and is also vastly more expensive per unit volume. I think the UK has something called "Polyfilla" which is similar to Spackle(tm) but not exactly the same.
Same here in the US, most houses built before the 60's have lathe and plaster walls, matter of fact right now I'm doing repairs on a kitchen ceiling in a home that actually has a weird transition method for the plaster work, instead of lathe and plaster this post WW2 house was built with walls and ceilings that have ⅜" drywall nailed up to the studs/joists and then the rough horsehair plaster over it then the finish plaster, it came as a total surprise to me when I started pulling down the water damaged plaster on the ceiling on this job, I fully expected to find the typical lathe boards under the plaster but instead the whole thing pulled down right to the joists, I looked at it and said to myself "Well that's not something you see everyday". The whole thing comes out to 13/16" thick, which there is no drywall in the same thickness so I had to screw 2×4's on the sides of the joists that stuck down far enough so when I screwed the drywall to them the surface was even with the original ceiling, then the typical drywall joint treatment which is pre filling the joints with mud then mud and tape, after that I skim coated everything to about 3 feet past all the joints to blend everything in so when the setting sun shines through the window above the sink and across the ceiling you'll never know I was there, today I'm actually sanding everything and will be priming tomorrow. I'm not a plasterer but I do use plaster to repair cracks in existing plaster walls, instead of trying to fix them with drywall mud like everyone else and just have the crack return in a year or two I take a medium size flat blade screwdriver and a light hammer and gouge out the crack into the rough plaster, then I mix up finish plaster (plaster of Paris) and knife it into the gouge making sure I keep it flush with the existing plaster surface because plaster is very hard and you don't want to try to sand it, then a thin skim coat with drywall mud about 4 feet wide (2 feet on each side of the repair) then sand and like the repair I talked about you'll never know I was there, I've used this method for 20 years now and I've never had a repaired crack in plaster return. You can't use just drywall mud to repair a crack in plaster, they have different rates of expansion and contraction over temperature changes, like steel and aluminum, which is why if you just use drywall mud to repair a crack in plaster it'll just come back in a year or two, there's multiple homes I've done using this repair technique that I frequent from them being owned by friends and family and I've never once seen a crack return after doing it that way, if I can't guarantee something I won't do it in the first place. I'd love to have someone who knows the trade teach me how to finish plaster but that's becoming a dying art anymore, there's people around who do it and there always will be but they're few and far between anymore. I have however learned a neat trick when it comes to working with plaster when I fix cracks, if you've ever worked with finish plaster then you know when you mix it according to the instructions it's thin and very little will stay on a knife when you're try to fill a crack, you have to keep dipping your knife in it and smearing it into the crack, and if you try mixing it up to the thickness of drywall mud it hardens before you can get 4 or 5 inches of the pre gouged crack filled and most of it goes to waste, however if you mix some white vinegar in the water before adding the plaster powder it acts like a retardant and greatly slows the drying time, this allows you to mix the plaster to a thickness more like drywall mud and it won't set up on you in 1 minute, it doesn't take a lot of vinegar, probably only about 2 or 3 percent of the amount of water you use, I don't actually measure it, I've just done it enough that I can eyeball the amount based on how much water I have in the container before I put the plaster in but if I have to say I'd guess it to be about 2 or 3 percent, it doesn't take much.
@@dukecraig2402 Great info, thx. For an education on plastering, check out the Plastering for Beginners channel on TH-cam. Very informative and also relaxing/zen, like Ben's drywall vids.
Hello VC. I have a door frame leading to my garage that the builder really hosed up. It literally looks like a dog chewed up the trim on the door jamb and the $)&(#*#)@@ builder just painted over it, leaving tons of divots and cracks in the wood. How would you repair this? With wood filler? Would you remove the paint first?
I hate Drydex, fine for a few holes here & there, but not worth a bucket of warm spit when repairing a suite or home full of holes, nicks, gouges, etc. Use a 6-8" knife, and a pail of CGC Red-Filler all purpose drywall compound. Yes, you do need to sand & skim more than once for more serious damage, but the sanding is easy. Coat with primer, top coat with finish paint, and you are ready for the finish coat. I also do this for a living, for a few decades.
The law of spackle is that it's always dried out when opening the container the 2nd time. So I now buy the smallest size and assume that I don't have any on hand.
You are an excellent teacher, and a kind-hearted human being, your friends, family, and viewers are lucky to have you!
Thank you! 😃
@@vancouvercarpenter , and yes, my mind did indeed go there. 🤣🤣
This has the be one of the best channels for learning this kind of content! Great teacher, good tips, the length of the videos are just the right length, and he has a good sense of humor. I had to tell my wife, "I bet his wife was behind the camera" at 2:50s we both laughed.
Your content is so ridiculously helpful, man. I can't count the number of times I've needed to refer to your channel for something. Thank you.
Always appreciate the explanations on using different products for different situations. They say the devil is in the details. That’s why I keep coming back to these videos. Do it right the first time & save money at the same time.
Thank you for so much excellent advice. Thanks to your suggestions I've quickly "graduated" from using smaller taping knifes to 14 inch trowel and hawk, this has made my kitchen and partial basement renovation so much easier and actually fun.
Really good video Ben. I've been watching you for well over a year and just refinished a bathroom. It's these final little finishing touches that really make the job seem WOW at the end. I'm DIY and it wasn't my first rodeo but I still didn't realize to use spackle instead of just mud for these. Core Viewer! Keep up the great work.
I think the phrase you are looking for is solids by volume or solids by weight. I couldn't find either measurement for drywall mud, but Dap DryDex is 77% solids by weight. Most high quality latex paints are 30-35% so I'd guess all purpose drywall mud is about half way in between, around 55-60%.
Yup. Solids.
This really helps me understand the difference between the two. Thanks!
I keep finding myself back on your channel over others. Very informative and made in a great way that doesn't make me wanna skip portions of the video. Keep up the awesome work!
That’s why I use the pink stuff as a final finish coat. It goes on totally smooth and sands easy. If you put it on right there’s virtually nothing to sand. And as you say after you paint the first coat and see all the defects its the perfect fix for that. Especially if you are remodeling a room and just patched a dozen nail holes. There are always dents and divots. With the pink stuff I can take a beat up old wall and make it look new again.
I do the same. I do alot of drywall repair( I'm a painter!). And found that spackle works best for pock holes when drywallers screw me! It works great
And you are correct about the sanding. I never sand it. I just pull it tight
Can you put tape with the pink one?
Drydex is for small holes and dents. Mud is for taping. Cost is the difference. Mud has to be sealed before painting. Drydex doesn't. It sands just as easy. And it dries faster. When the sealer coat goes on, the mud is put away. It's that simple. I would use Drydex for small mud & tape hole patches, to patch repair holes in gyproc. It dries faster and can be top coated after final sanding
Another very clear well spoken instructional video with great camera work. Thankyou !
With the colder temperatures in Canada I would think shrinkage is a normal occurrence. .
Buh-dum-tsssss
#TrueStory
That's what SHE said!
Also shrinks as it ages 😶
Are we talking about mud still?
The first big patch job I did was my kitchen ceiling. It was horrible. I swore off ever using the pink stuff. I still need to redo everything. I wonder if I was really using spackle!
You can add PVA to dry wall ready mix mud. Yes it works for filling defects in walls with out pulling out.Easy to sand, nicer to work with, than spackle.
Great channel. Now I have two favorite channels, this and Sarah n Tuned. You are such a good teacher and extremely articulate. Keep up the great work!
I got into construction installing drywall in may of 2019. I learned so much from your channel since then. Sincerely, thank you.
Are you a hanger? Or do you frame and finish, as well?
@@ItchyKneeSon started out hanging drywall then learned to frame and finish.
Love this channel. I didn't hear anything I didn't already know in this video. I just wanted watch Mr relatable Ben. He's gotta be the nicest most relatable tradesman on TH-cam. Stay golden ponyboy :)
very useful and helpful information and video are so entertaining, keep up the good work Ben you always do a good job.
Two tricks : if you pull the Drydex straight, it digs some out, but if you slice the knife sideways a bit, it leaves the hole fuller, not always requiring a second coat.
As you work, the tub is losing moisture, so before capping it, pour it full of water, and dump the water out before capping, and it will be perfectly workable next use.
Two nice simple, yet good, tips I'll use in the future. I'm a regular (non-professional) Drydex user! Thanks!
You’re always there when I need you! Thanks for your videos!
I gave up on Dry-Dex, then came back to it. Its great for small repairs if you can let it dry for a few days, as a professional painter I prefer quick setting mud and all purpose but I always keep a small tub of it around. Major plus is that is sands easy and smoothly.
one mistake i've seen and done myself, is attempting to fix a finished drywall surface- new board or repair, with the drydex, prior to priming. It doesn't sand as easily as drywall mud, so you can end up with a weird irregular surface where you touch up with drydex over mud, and then sand. I do the same, sand out the mud, prime, have a look with some good lighting, do any little touch ups with drydex prior to top coats.
Dude, I have always loved your skate content, and I listened to your nine club episode just recently. I needed to sparkle the wall, and was checking some clips and found your video. This was very helpful.
I like the 3M patch plus primer product instead of spackle for small repairs. It definitely paints nicely.
This. 3m's patch is the best on the market for interior. MD ready patch is my go to for exterior
I used quickset for deficiencies on my last project and it turned out well. I’m planning on doing the same on a big ceiling I’m doing next. Hopefully it turns out as well
This popped up at a good time I’m going to be painting my bathroom and I have some stuff to fix before I paint. Thanks for the information.
Maybe the moisture content (added) in(to) drywall mud can be likened to milk in your cereal?
You're really in it for the cereal and you only need enough milk to wet the flakes. Too much just gets in the way and forces you to drink that sloppy concoction when all the flakes are gone.
oh nice...I use the same method in filling up little holes and dings. I just came up with it through trial and error and also found that it provides the best finish. This is especially critical when filling in holes/dings on a newly laid skim coat. Because I found that whenever I tried to press the compound into the hole, I run the risk of compressing the mud. And when I try to sand after, the compressed mud will standout from the surrounding mud
Yup. That's exactly what happens.
To anyone interested...I had to patch several cut - outs in my walls that were made from running wire from my basement to the top of the basement stairwell (which is pretty far) my basement has 10 foot ceilings. I cut some scrap sheetrock of the same thickness just roughly close to the size of the hole, placed the scrap over the hole, traced it with a pencil and cut out along the pencil line. I then used a hot glue gun around the edges of the patch and pressed it in with a flat piece of wood across it so it ended up exactly flush with the rest of the wall. In summary, the patches are so solid that I could probably punch it and it would break the rest of the wall around it. The best part is, no wood strips of screws to cover up, and the seam is so small that it looks like a pencil line drawn on the wall. You could probably just wipe a very small amount of spackle on the seam. I doubt it would ever crack because its solidly adhered to the sheetrock around it. Just be careful of the hot glue...wear gloves so you dont burn your fingers, and keep in mind, the working time of the glue is very short...if you mess up you can reheat it with a hair dryer of heat gun. If you need to pull it back out, drive a sheetrock screw into it and pull with pliers. This worked so well and so quick with nearly zero mess. I'm sure this would probably work great to patch ceilings too.
I'm interested to hear what this looks like in 5-10 years.
There are hangers that use construction adhesive on the studs and only a handful of screws per sheet. I guess it's a similar idea to the hot glue, but less 'scalable' and more working time with the adhesive. But, if it works, it works. Good for you!
Sounds like not a bad idea honestly but if I showed up at a customers house and started hot gluing drywall into the wall I would expect to be promptly kicked out.
....just a little note to add...if you are uncomfortable or not quick enough getting the patch in place before the glue cools off, just fit the patch in the hole, drill some small holes along the seam, and you can press the hot glue gun tip in the holes and squeeze the glue into the seam. This works good too. If you get any glue on the surface to be painted you can usually pick it off with your fingers or you can lightly sand it off.
Thank you for the video Ben. Very good explanation. Cheers 🇦🇺
I don't like to use premixed filler. The Aussie brands tend to swell a tiny bit when the first coat goes on and remains a visible repair to the trained eye. I like to use a dry powder filler (I like the Parfix brand from Bunning) that when mixed goes off like cement. I dab those little dings with my finger.
I was just thinking about this today and wondering whether I should buy some spackle when I have half a bucket of drywall mud. Now I have the answer. Thanks!
When filling little defects like that I often use dap dynaflex. It doesn’t need to be primed to avoid having that hazy look after a topcoat. It’s hard to find all the little defects you patched when the patch and walls are white.
Thanks Ben, never knew the difference until now.
Hey I love your videos and you’ve coached me through some late nights on my own while husband sleeping (first time drywaller here! I wanted to fix the drywall hubby added more of a mess too due to water loss from leaking water heaters (2 were connected together because house used to be a duplex), impacting both bathrooms/ laundry room, our daughters room and our family room!
Hubby was trying to do a “fast job” since he thinks we are going to tear current house down in a year to rebuild. Regardless, I just couldn’t handle looking at a “pregnant looking” wall w lots of grid and multiple seams showing through everyday while I do the family’s laundry everyday!). 😎
And it looks SO much better! 🤗 💃🏻 💙🤍
But I did make unfortunately a big dusty mess when I had a sand a lot of it (I mean, it was REALLY bad!!). I’m happy with the improvements and especially since texturing and painting with “Littlr Boy Blue” Sherwin Williams” paint in semi gloss. I mean I was a little OCD about it but that was also because the SW paint guy told me that the gloss was “going to highlight EVERY imperfection”……😬😱 (and, I’m an “ex manufacturing DEFECT engineer” from high tech semiconductor of about 7 yrs before I became full time mom / part time renovator! 😂 So I can’t HELP but totally analysis every different groove and then think deeply about how it became that way to begin with, for “future reference” 🤣 🤓). Anyway you were my TH-cam Angel for quite a few nights and there was something so calming about you I felt I could just give it try. And I did and since, I even used what I learned to improve another area too that we were working on and was pretty darn happy with it….esp since I accidentally got 15 min compound!!! whoops! So THANKYOU!!!! ❤️ 💙🤍 Wish you were Vancouver WA….which is where we live I would be like your shakedown and free laborer just so I could learn like that other carpenter you had on for an episode. That’s how I knew “for sure” I was watching someone who was indeed skilled and knew what they were doing enough for a veteran to learn new techniques also!
I’d love to see some videos of maybe your kids or wife helping too because I want to teach my kids theses skills and I love how you have this way of making this stuff FUN (and funny!): it’s very non-intimidating this way for people like me and we really appreciate it.
Also last thing rgd the subject at hand:
When doing small holes are you adding texture also? If so what is your technique in doing so? Do you prime the repair, then texture (abs using what?), prime again, then do the paint on top (if size of the hole or repair would demand it in your opinion?)?
I’ve read that is is ideal to prime mud before texture then texture, and prime again - all to ensure more even absorbtion of whatever you are adding on. I find it’s not that inconvenient for me to do and I’d rather have it be done the best to my ability I can vs it come out looking goofy simply because I was too lazy to add one layer of paint (of several anyway!).
What are your thoughts on that?
Would you also be willing to do a video where you are doing the texturizing also? Want to see your techniques and how it might change depending on size. You seem like a natural at this and for teaching.
Ps you’d be the best wood shop teacher ever (if any schools still doing that! I’ve found few are. I actually almost got a job as an assistant to the one school I know who DOES teach shop - ironically he was my ex boss when I was in engineering and he hired me out of college. He since has “retired” and now teaching MS and HS “makers space” shop classes. Unfortunately I was the second runner up per the principal so I didn’t get the job, so I’m just sticking to learning and doing here at home and also on our 4 plex we own next to our house. My dad was a civil engineer and builder but unfortunately died at 45 when i was 10 otherwise I’d definitely be bugging him about all of this! But somehow I feel like maybe he is still watching over me and controlling my TH-cam (to help me find great teachers like you!). Not that U wanted to know all of this or anything but want you to know your work is apreciated (but would love to see more videos with kids helping out and maybe you can inspire a younger audience as well!). I’d say kids today (and people in general) definitely need more real world teaching and skills they can use and build their confidence in their own abilities to actually attempt to fix or build something themselves vs always relying on someone else.
Just replaced an exterior window sill where some muppet homeowner had used drywall mud to repair and build up severely rotted wood and then painted over. Made demo a breeze with chunks of rotted wood and drywall mud covered in black mold coming off by hand. Western WA coast with 80" of rain/year.
Shrinkage. 🤣
“I was in the pool!!”
As a painting contractor, with textured walls in my area, I rarely use spackle. Holes in walls with a flat sheen paint is about the only place. With walls that are painted with low sheen eggshell or higher sheen I just use caulking for small nail pin holes. If you use spackle it sucks the moisture from the paint and leaves an unsmooth finish which will show really bad in the sheen of the paint. For filling nail holes in trim, years ago I used spackle or wood filler. Now I found Crawfords painters putty to work MUCH better. You can fill it with either your fingers or a small knife and it doesn't shrink hardly at all. If you fill it just right one or two passes with sand paper and its done.
Question, I'm about to do a small feature wall with a bunch of little spots of torn paper from command strips. Just wondering if there's a better way to prevent the mud from bubbling other than spending $30 on a litre of shellac or oil primer as a sealer since I'll barely use any of it
@@Blingdung if is just small pieces, cut out the loose paper and mud over the top. Some kind of drywall tape wouldn't hurt, again probably could do without if it's a small repair. Primer is best but I have done it many times without.
@@srharris88 cool thank you. I guess sanding down a few bubbles if they show up isn't the worst either
Can you do a video on what to do about truss uplift? I have a problem with it every winter.
I am a professional painter and I hate drydex. I always use drywall mud and scim it twice if needed.
ditto
Same here, plus I can tint my mud so I can see patches on a primed wall or ceiling.
Thank you Ben. You are a big role model to me. I am trying to get my life together but it can be hard sometimes.
Love your videos, super informative!
I have some plaster crown moulding with some hairline (and some bigger...) cracks that I would like to patch up and paint over. Would DryDex be the recommended material for repairing plaster cracks? Do I need to carve out the hairline cracks to get more DryDex material actually inside to fill up the crack? Thanks!
This carpenter does more drywall patching and painting than anyone else :)
If you dont wait for paint to cure, The drydex sometimes absorbs the paints moisture and then when you cone back to sand it it feels like rubber and you have heck of a time tryna sand it off.
And then there is hot mud with all the different work times..............that is the same as dry wall mud?. You threw in Dyna Patch and I assume that is dry wall mud and you recommend using it for nail holes in trim not the pink stuff. I have prepared all my walls with the pink stuff, bought all new trim..............so I am hoping that you have guided me well. Thank you.
I’m currently finishing my garage walls (just drywall and taped/muded joints), and I have a bunch of little nail holes left over from where cabinets were removed. Would it be best to use the spackle to fill those and then prime and paint the drywall? Or do a broader cover with drywall compound, then prime and then spackle anything left over and then paint?
Just did a small wall repair job which turned out to be a nightmare the homeowner used drydex and put in the tape meanwhile the Spackle will still pink they requested i sand it and get back to work because they were in a hurry to paint good luck with that cuz now all the tape is falling and the pink pretty much removed majority of the spackle so all the tape is loose mind you he did not use joint compound at all and cut the drywall with a axe lol
Great Video's Ben!, I've watched them all. I'm currently starting my first drywall and mudding job, my garage..Lol. Being a newbie, I have some uneven butt joints, and half inch gaps, and a few extra holes in drywall,when I was looking for studs when I hung the drywall. I bought a bucket of lite all purpose and started mudding last night. This morning I found a lot of shrinkage and cracks, can I let dry and just put another coat over top of the cracks?, how long do I let dry before putting second coat on?, 24 hours?. Also with all these extra screw holes, do I cut the paper pulls off with an olfa knife from when I removed the screw?. One last question, when doing the unevn butt joints do I continue to feather out until flat before I put the tape on?....again great video's Ben keep them coming
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Hm. Fairly sure that I can mix Knauf Uniflott to about the consistency of your spackle? But I am not sure that stuff is available in Canada (or anywhere in NA) at all.
It generally seems to be somewhere in between your all-purpose-mud and your quickset and then has some attributes that seem like none of your regular mud types have them? Like it can (supposedly) be used without tape (which generally does work out fairly well but isn't always the safest bet).
I learned a lot from your videos - but when it comes to mud types, I feel like what we have here in Germany and what you're using are two completely different sets of stuff o.O
There's never an explanation on what kind of paint either can be put on in drywall mud videos on the internet. Will both work on flat paint and semi gloss or do you have to sand first?
If you have a large area, you can use a drywall primer before paint.
Imperfections in the drywall/finishing work show much more with glossy paint. My dad's got 40+ years in drywall (framing-to-finishing) and always urges people to use flat/matte paint. (I wonder if that's to cover up mistakes? lol) If you pay attention when you're in buildings and houses, you'll see PLENTY of imperfections. Most guys don't think that last 15-20% to get the job flawless is worth it. A lot of people will point out the 1 spot that was missed and won't let it go until it's fixed. So it goes...
You can call up a local painter and ask how he does it.
@@ItchyKneeSon I mean already painted drywall and then adding mud. Will mud adhere to flat paint better than semi gloss etc?
My question is, I'm a service tech, I do a lot of small repairs. Nobody has shown a good informational video on how to bring egg shell texture back, I can walk in after 2 coats of paint, and tell exactly where the super flat repairs are.
Egg shell is the sheen of the paint (somewhere in the middle of glossy vs flat). Perhaps you mean the bumpy texture that a roller leaves? Or perhaps the repair area appears more dull or even a different colour from the surrounding wall - possibly from no primer on the repair area?
I am currious myself if he primes his repairs depending on the area and filling compound used.
@@tighep egg shell is the sheen, but it's also a texture I believe. Either way, the walls have an egg shell type texture. It's not orange peel, it's just from multiple years of roller texture. When I do a repair, I'll put 2 coats of Pro Mar 400 paint (it's what the company buys) and unless I get a heavy nap roller, it would probably take me a dozen coats to bring that texture back. So when you walk in, all the walls have kinda an egg shell texture, and then you have the super flat repairs I've done, and you can spot it from a mile away. Aside from doing a dozen coats of paint, I'd love to know how to bring that texture back as quick as possible and with as less coats as possible. I don't have all day to put a dozen coats on little spots.
@@Chris.Rhodes Agreed. Could make an interesting video on how to match existing walls
@@tighep it really infuriates me after you spend all that time with repairing something and it's hard to match that texture. I've used spray cans of orange peel, and then sanded, it was close, but it's a different texture.
If you are talking about seeing the texture of the old roller vs the smooth new repair it is virtually impossible. The older houses with dozens of coats of paint end up having walls that look like the skin of an avocado. It sucks because all the modern paints have such small particulates to aid with leveling and flow. The only way I've been able to get close is to use an oil primer with a traditional sleeve(not a microfibre) to try to build up the paint texture. If you're stuck using latex try going back to the patches and dry rolling right before they flash off with a thick nap. My region switched to almost exclusive low sheen paints and it isn't as much of an issue anymore.
Thanks! I’ve been wondering this for years
Can you use Spackle for other things? Would it work on wood? to sand the surface smooth? Wood putty I have the same problem, when I put it on. Maybe I am doing it wrong.
“It shrinks?” Love the Seinfeld reference 😂
Thanks. That clarified it for me. Question: what do I use around the shower where the water has Deteriorated the drywall a bit? Thanks for all the great info
Be careful with water damage. If that area is in a splash zone or high moisture zone, you need to protect your drywall by tanking it with stuff like RedGard, or even better - use something waterproof like tile backer instead of drywall. It may be wiser to extend your tiled area a bit. If water could be a recurring issue, you need to address the root cause first, otherwise it will come back (and there could be worse damage hidden under the drywall).
If it's on the ceiling, look into better ventilation to get rid of the extra moisture that is causing damage.
@@GailyFix Good advice! Thanks!
Why not use sparkle for big projects instead of drywall mud? Base on your explanation, it just seems superior and you can just add some water to make it easier to spread like drywall mud, right?
Spackle seems to have some kind of hydrocarbon in it? It definitely is a lot different than drydex filling compound.
minus the smallest dings I've learned to avoid spakle. Rarely am I happy with the finish. It stands out
not even saying this cause youre a fellow Canadian, but you have the best videos on this stuff man
I have a question. I have dime size holes in my wall as well as drywall paper that is ripped. I watched the drywall paper repair video and saw that you used drywall mud for the paper repair. Silly question is can spackle be used to repair drywall paper similar to mudd?
I have a friend who insists on using spackle the pink stuff for taping his joints. He likes it but I would be afraid to follow his recommendations to do likewise.
Great info, been wondering about this for a long time
Could you do a video of painting trim and base board?
Perhaps mixing a bit of wall color latex paint into a bit of Spackle to fill those little holes and blemishes would kill two birds at the same time. It would help get colors to match up on the sanded finish.
Good comparison, Question: with spackle, is it necessary to use a primer paint before the final paint coat?
Yeah, I'm not a big fan of pull outs either. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
good video, as always - get that man a Puppers!
I wonder if this was created in response to that YT Short video floating around where the 'drywallers' called the joint compound spackle and everyone started throwing in their 2 cents about the correct terminology. It couldn't have been much more than a month ago. At any rate, thanks for another quality video.
It wasn't. I haven't seen that. Spackle is a Northeastern US term for joint compound I think.
@@vancouvercarpenter Buncha weirdoes... Good thing I'm safe from that wild talk here in Cleveland suburbia. :D
It's so interesting how that kind of thing catches on and spreads.
God bless the drywall finisher who wears black shirts to work.
As a Brit, I never heard of Spackle. Where does plaster sit in the list? We tend to have plaster walls over lathe. Not so much drywall in older houses.
Plaster is a lot closer to cement than drywall mud is. Plaster is nearly impossible to sand, extremely hard, but it gives you a superior wall finish. I've used a sawzall on plaster and the serrated blade comes out looking like a smooth butter knife after a few minutes. I view it as lite cement LOL
@@ArdFarkable Thank-you!
These terms don't mean the same things in Commonwealth countries as North America :(
In North America, we have joint compound and plaster (including Venetian plaster and veneer plaster and plastic of paris), and they are both cementitious gypsum products with differing compositions. I think that you would call our "joint compound" a plaster, but I am not sure. Spackle clasically contains [some amount of] vinyl, comes pre-mixed (some joint compounds do, some do not), and is also vastly more expensive per unit volume. I think the UK has something called "Polyfilla" which is similar to Spackle(tm) but not exactly the same.
Same here in the US, most houses built before the 60's have lathe and plaster walls, matter of fact right now I'm doing repairs on a kitchen ceiling in a home that actually has a weird transition method for the plaster work, instead of lathe and plaster this post WW2 house was built with walls and ceilings that have ⅜" drywall nailed up to the studs/joists and then the rough horsehair plaster over it then the finish plaster, it came as a total surprise to me when I started pulling down the water damaged plaster on the ceiling on this job, I fully expected to find the typical lathe boards under the plaster but instead the whole thing pulled down right to the joists, I looked at it and said to myself "Well that's not something you see everyday".
The whole thing comes out to 13/16" thick, which there is no drywall in the same thickness so I had to screw 2×4's on the sides of the joists that stuck down far enough so when I screwed the drywall to them the surface was even with the original ceiling, then the typical drywall joint treatment which is pre filling the joints with mud then mud and tape, after that I skim coated everything to about 3 feet past all the joints to blend everything in so when the setting sun shines through the window above the sink and across the ceiling you'll never know I was there, today I'm actually sanding everything and will be priming tomorrow.
I'm not a plasterer but I do use plaster to repair cracks in existing plaster walls, instead of trying to fix them with drywall mud like everyone else and just have the crack return in a year or two I take a medium size flat blade screwdriver and a light hammer and gouge out the crack into the rough plaster, then I mix up finish plaster (plaster of Paris) and knife it into the gouge making sure I keep it flush with the existing plaster surface because plaster is very hard and you don't want to try to sand it, then a thin skim coat with drywall mud about 4 feet wide (2 feet on each side of the repair) then sand and like the repair I talked about you'll never know I was there, I've used this method for 20 years now and I've never had a repaired crack in plaster return.
You can't use just drywall mud to repair a crack in plaster, they have different rates of expansion and contraction over temperature changes, like steel and aluminum, which is why if you just use drywall mud to repair a crack in plaster it'll just come back in a year or two, there's multiple homes I've done using this repair technique that I frequent from them being owned by friends and family and I've never once seen a crack return after doing it that way, if I can't guarantee something I won't do it in the first place.
I'd love to have someone who knows the trade teach me how to finish plaster but that's becoming a dying art anymore, there's people around who do it and there always will be but they're few and far between anymore.
I have however learned a neat trick when it comes to working with plaster when I fix cracks, if you've ever worked with finish plaster then you know when you mix it according to the instructions it's thin and very little will stay on a knife when you're try to fill a crack, you have to keep dipping your knife in it and smearing it into the crack, and if you try mixing it up to the thickness of drywall mud it hardens before you can get 4 or 5 inches of the pre gouged crack filled and most of it goes to waste, however if you mix some white vinegar in the water before adding the plaster powder it acts like a retardant and greatly slows the drying time, this allows you to mix the plaster to a thickness more like drywall mud and it won't set up on you in 1 minute, it doesn't take a lot of vinegar, probably only about 2 or 3 percent of the amount of water you use, I don't actually measure it, I've just done it enough that I can eyeball the amount based on how much water I have in the container before I put the plaster in but if I have to say I'd guess it to be about 2 or 3 percent, it doesn't take much.
@@dukecraig2402 Great info, thx. For an education on plastering, check out the Plastering for Beginners channel on TH-cam. Very informative and also relaxing/zen, like Ben's drywall vids.
Great explanation
One of the first subjects anyone should learn about drywall and it's not said enough. Too many mistakes are made using the wrong product.
What do you use on door trim? Wood filler or spackle? For nails i use wood filler but I have used wood filler for tiny dents in the trim as well
I like wood filler.
How to you fill casing seams?? On one by material
Why would you use pink spackle on a white wall when you could use white spackle? I don't get it!
Can you use spackle to repair torn drywall paper (after you have primed the spot)?
Can I use spackle as joint compound when adding a piece of drywall to a hole
Hello VC. I have a door frame leading to my garage that the builder really hosed up. It literally looks like a dog chewed up the trim on the door jamb and the $)&(#*#)@@ builder just painted over it, leaving tons of divots and cracks in the wood. How would you repair this? With wood filler? Would you remove the paint first?
I'd just replace the trim. Spackle will stick okay but if it's as bad as it sounds...
I use Sheetrock 20 or 45 for everything from small holes or gouges to patching holes and seems with tape.
Is this not not recommended?
Density, is the amount of solids to liquid.
Which one is considered to be more “strong” ? If it were you were going more 3d with it (for a textured art piece)
I hate Drydex, fine for a few holes here & there, but not worth a bucket of warm spit when repairing a suite or home full of holes, nicks, gouges, etc. Use a 6-8" knife, and a pail of CGC Red-Filler all purpose drywall compound. Yes, you do need to sand & skim more than once for more serious damage, but the sanding is easy. Coat with primer, top coat with finish paint, and you are ready for the finish coat. I also do this for a living, for a few decades.
Thanks for the video. You did not address the claim Spackle does not require a primer to prevent flashing.
It's a claim...not a fact😂
@@vancouvercarpenter So, you prime whether it's Drydex or taping mud -- even for small dents?
This is a great video so simple and descriptive 🙌🏽💯💯
Thank you!
Only problem with pink spackle is that it will flash when painted on so you need to prime over it.
I agree. But so many people believe the false advertising.
Solids. The word is solids
How would I patch up a diagonal cut in the wall with the two sides being offset?
which one should I use for cracks in walls, wall corners, and ceilings?
So not video related.
I have to mud and tape around exposed ceiling joists. What is the proper method.
Yeah I don't even bother with spackle anymore because you have to build it up anyway.
I am definitely a spackle man. Shrinkage??...I was thinking that way until u said something....it's u🤣🤣🤣
Can you link to your patreon? Can’t seem to find you on there...
www.patreon.com/user?u=10996150&fan_landing=true
I hope you find something worthwhile there :)
Can you use spackle as a small skim coat?
Can I tape the drywall with Drytex?or Spackle
Great video!
wish i'd watched this before my recent trip to home depot. Welp, back to home depot
@2:55 LMAO
The law of spackle is that it's always dried out when opening the container the 2nd time. So I now buy the smallest size and assume that I don't have any on hand.
I saw a video address this issue and all it took was a couple drops of water on top before closing it up. And ofc a bit of mixing upon opening next.
@@elle7037 Are you sure that wasn't joint compound?
@@allanwind295 it was a small spackle container like the drydex a drizzle of water, saran/plastic wrap the top and use the lid over the wrap
Both stuff take primer in small spots?