You heat up the parts. You season the metal with the frog lube then let cool and wipe off completely. I’ve done this for years and I’ve never had an issue. Don’t use it like a regular lube and leave a bunch of it on.
I use it on all my firearms and 3 gun rifle. If you follow the directions.. and heat it like you said. Never had an issue. Not even on rifles that have sat for 6 months after being lubed
Exactly. His reference of a “light coat” indicated the problem. You have to wipe it completely off after heating, applying the frog lube and letting it sit. Basically the gun should appear dry but feel slick.
Yup so far this guy does not know how to use the product. You clean it, then heat the parts, the pores of the metal open and you apply the FrogLube. Let it sit for about 45 min, then wipe it off. Then as you shoot your gun, it heats up, and the FrogLube starts to work. The people that have problems with it, don't know how to use it. I've used it for the past 3 yrs and never had a problem, EVER.
Huge commendation to you for being so willing to give frog lube a second chance. I would never put that much thought and effort into a lube, if it lets me down it gets dumped. I use G96 on everything and have no complaints - in fact, it cracks me up that it smells like very strong bubblegum.
I use the Froglube Extreme on AR-15, AR10 bolt carrier groups after cleaning with MPro-7 without problems I use the Froglube paste on the exterior metal components (ie., barrels, receivers). Apply, then wipe excess off.
I have run the original paste and clp in my 1911 since new following the instructions. Put away dirty for a year, don't ask, cleaner with some frog lube solvent. Easy to clean, works like a champ! Recently converted to it with my revolvers, works great! I love it
Froglube has gummed up enough of my firearms that I threw it away. I have switched back to MILITEC-1 on my rifles and Mobil-1 20-50 (aircooled motorcycle oil) based on the recommendation from Scott at Sig Academy, for all my pistols. I know enough about the 1911 that if I have any questions or concerns to go no further than Joe Chambers.
I was an avid believer and treated all my guns with it. Ran great for a while until I went back to the guns I didn’t shoot frequently. Gummed up over time-nothing with tight tolerances worked well after being Froglubed. Way too needy and not worth the extra attention. Went back to KG4, now giving EWL a shot.
I have used the frog lube wipes. I see you did not have them to test. Might be worth finding some to try. I can control how much is applied a bit better with them. I really only use them for surface protection of finger prints and rust prevention. Love your show.
Froglube works good enough for a desert environment. Use it on all my firearms. Admittedly, our winters are like summers for a lot of people. The temperature probably helps a little honestly, but I’m also a lower volume shooter.
Low Volume civilian shooter here. Frog lube works great for me. I do as they suggest and heat up the gun, apply, let cool and then wipe down completely. I don't ever add extra lube and leave it sitting anywhere. When i lived in South Dakota i knew i could always pull my guns out, no matter how cold it was, and they would function well. Now here in Arizona, the cold worry has mostly left, and it works great. When i shoot, i will wipe down with a clean rag and toss back in the safe. No need to apply any more lube for me. The FL sticks around and does it's job. This has been my experience with bolt guns, pistols, and a couple AR's. If you use it as they say, and never just dump liquid somewhere on your gun and use it, it should function well for most people. I think you run into issues when you dump it on and leave it sit. When using FL you have to remember it is not like other petro based clp and it does not need to have a liquid layer ANYWHERE on the weapon. This excess liquid is what gums up and causes the issues. I cannot speak for high volume shooters, but for a low volume shooter/hunters this is the best product i have found and have no intentions of changing anything.
One of the main issues is contamination with petroleum base lubes and not following the proper application and cleaning instructions. I have applied it as recommended without failure on AR 15's, 1911's and so forth.
Great answer: “The BEST WAY to use FROG LUBE” You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer (NOT a heat gun), frog lube (paste is best), gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of “clean cotton” tee shirt, Field strip gun 1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best, use a nylon bristle brush {lead solvent/oil/etc. (if you have to use a pick now & then for stuck grit, use it){ leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub/brake clean to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & only oil "inside" of barrel, wipe it out, "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs” after cleaning them) " {re-inspect for cleanliness} 2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply (with cotton tee shirt squares or “gun” q-tip swabs) "very sparingly" , just enough frog lube to just cover any area (should turn to liquid from heat). {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole & channel, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also,wipe it off very well. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it. 3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two on all the separated & cleaned parts. Now, rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can off , with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun tapered "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt. 4.) Leave none behind, ( some people do, It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake it'll gum-up later when the gun heats up, not good) 5.) Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( then do the outside of slide & barrel, it will look GREAT ,also well protected) 4.) Do this with each part, the slide rails on grip/body, ) the outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.{ no frog lube inside there} Metal guide rod if spring is removable, (not the spring itself) every where on the "outside" of the barrel, “only”. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere !!!! Your DONE !! The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to. After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open). You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
I like Militec. I was given a bottle more than a decade ago, when the Army was testing it. Later, it was taken out of inventory with the armorers emphasizing that CLP was the only authorized lube for the M4. I kept buying it. After a heat cycle and a wipe down Militec leaves a dry lube on the finish of the internals. It even cleared up some issues on problem SAWs. Good stuff. As for non toxic lubrication, has anyone tried just using vegetable oil? As far as smelling great, you couldn't do better than bacon grease, am I right?
Good video. There are definitely 2 frog lube camps and both are screaming polar opposite things. I have used frog lube on my armalite ar15 and I for the first time recently I was having light primer strikes. Gun was fairly clean, maybe 500 rounds through it previously, then put in the safe and brought out to shoot and light primer strikes. Nothing felt tacky but I don’t know what else to blame this one. Wiped it down and put 2 drops of Lucas gun oil on my trigger mech. And the gun ran flawless through 500rounds that day. I, like you, want the frog lube to work but I’m having trouble fully believing in it.
Could it be poor quality of the shock buffers? The CZ Shadow 2 comes with a similar shock buffer installed & a couple of spares & my experience after close to 1000rds is....hardly any wear at all & no impact on performance of the slide in any negative way at all.... it too is supposed to eventually be replaced with a new fresh buffer.
Please give it a shot!! It is definitely worth it. After trying probably 12-15 different lubes over the years, I have settled on slip2000 for almost everything.
Someone else already said it but the Shadow 2 comes with shock buffers installed and they must be made of a different material. I am still on my first one at a few thousand rounds. It looks a little beat up, but does not cause any failures like yours did. I think the CZ ones fail by ripping off and getting stuck in the action during recoil.
Spartan accuracy oil and carbon cleaner is by far the best I have used and does not gum up. Also non toxic and safe. Frog lube is a good product but think it’s done.
All plastic gun holster suck will turn a 1000 gun to hafe why it takes blueing to metal and distroy s ur gun use leather not plastic I ruined there nice gun blueing scratch s to metal they sux
I use it on my pistols, bolt guns, AR's, and my AK. I heat like the directions say to.. let sit for 15 minutes and wipe of the parts. I have never had any issues. Some of my pistols sit for 6 months.. and still no sticking or gummy stuff. But slip2000 seems to be good too.
When I first used Frog I loved it. After my guns sat a bit and I went to the range I hated it, every one of them stopped working because it had gummed up.
Been using Frog Lube for 2 years I have the paste and liquid CLP it gets tacky after sitting no matter what i do. I clean my guns prior to and after the range so i just deal with it. I won't buy it again... my ccw and shotguns have been stripped and coated with good ol petroleum products.
I've used it for years on my glock, AR,and various other guns. I've never had it get sticky, but I did have it harden up in the bottle I've have for about 4 years. Shaking the bottle fixed it though and I used it again. I've never had a problem, AR and glock haven't had a malfunction since I started using FrogLube. I just 'season' the metal as recommended 2 or 3 times and wipe of between applications then leave it alone. I do add a couple drops before running my AR and then wipe off when I get home, really helps keep it easy to clean.
You're doing it wrong. “The BEST WAY to use FROG LUBE” You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer (NOT a heat gun), frog lube (paste is best), gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of “clean cotton” tee shirt, Field strip gun 1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best, use a nylon bristle brush {lead solvent/oil/etc. (if you have to use a pick now & then for stuck grit, use it){ leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub/brake clean to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & only oil "inside" of barrel, wipe it out, "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs” after cleaning them) " {re-inspect for cleanliness} 2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply (with cotton tee shirt squares or “gun” q-tip swabs) "very sparingly" , just enough frog lube to just cover any area (should turn to liquid from heat). {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole & channel, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also,wipe it off very well. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it. 3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two on all the separated & cleaned parts. Now, rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can off , with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun tapered "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt. 4.) Leave none behind, ( some people do, It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake it'll gum-up later when the gun heats up, not good) 5.) Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( then do the outside of slide & barrel, it will look GREAT ,also well protected) 4.) Do this with each part, the slide rails on grip/body, ) the outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.{ no frog lube inside there} Metal guide rod if spring is removable, (not the spring itself) every where on the "outside" of the barrel, “only”. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere !!!! Your DONE !! The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to. After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open). You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
I have used FrogLube for 4 years now since I bought my first handgun at 21. My wife and I took a pistol course with two glock 19's where we shot over a thousand rounds in a day. Both guns worked great, and they had not been cleaned in weeks without being shot before hand. But I have always heated the guns up put the Frog Lube on let the gun cold and wiped off the excess and then put a couple drops of the CLP where it needs to be. I am LE and I use it on my backup g43. I ran it through the qualification course no problems. But my duty Glock 17 I dont use FrogLube because we're required to clean them every quarter when we shoot at the range and I don't want to mix the cleaners.
Ehh..that frog lube..too much gum up..would you stake your life on something that has multiple tales of jamming up weapons?? Have you tried mil-comm? Mc2500 oil on your inners and tw25b on your slide..also the Wilson combat Ultima lube..I dig the universal..it's a petroleum mix..in my opinion after going on a gun oil shopping spree to find the best in my opinion (wife put a stop to that btw) these are the two best I've found..also I stay away from anything that says..clp..lubes are lubes and cleaners are cleaners..ok maybe it's just me but I don't want an oil on my gun that has a cleaning agent in it..let each do what they do best.
Hey John. Like you I used Break Free CLP for decades after the Corps. Lots of scrubbing and picks for cleaning. And of course never any failures or malfunctions. The downside of BF CLP is that it is a wet lube that collects particles, and leaks leaving a telltale stain. A few years ago when I was a dedicated Hornady product user, I tried their One Shot and One Shot Extreme. Not the One Shot case lube, which I still use. The One Shot and One Shot Extreme is a cleaner and lubricant. The cleaner liquifies any fouling, you just wipe it off with a rag. The lubrication is a dry lube and does not collect particles that I've noticed, and does not liquify and leak at body temperature. The only difference between the One Shot and One Shot Extreme cleaners is that the Extreme is rated for higher temperatures and friction for your semi auto weapons. 8 years of no issues and easier cleaning so far. I researched Frog Lube after a fellow shooter recommended it to me as a non leaking lube. Like you, I found far too many negative reviews. I have no desire to encounter a malfunction at a critical time, so I passed on trying it. All petro chemicals have to be stripped? Your AR is most likely assembled with barrel grease. There is no way to thoroughly clean that. When you do rapid fire and heat it up, that grease will seep and interact badly with the Frog Lube. Just my $.02 for what it's worth. Never thought I'd leave BF CLP, but this stuff is awsome. P.S. I never had numb lips after using BF CLP. That made me laugh.
Back when I was tacticool I bought into frog lube because it was the tactical thing to do. I’ve moved on to better things I’m no longer tacticool so I no longer use froglube. All jokes aside I really think a lot of people have the same story.
I didn't hear you say anything about heating up the parts with a hairdryer or whatever before you lubed it up ? I just pulled out my pistol that has bin in the safe for two years to see and I have no gum up or anything so idk and I half to say I only ever used the paste stuff
Used frog lube for about 18 months here in Fl. on 2 AR's 4 Glocks, a couple of Rem 700 and a Rem 870. No issues to date. All were stripped first using their cleaner, then heated with a heat gun prior to application. When I get back from a range trip, it's typically a wipe and store evolution. I've seen the bolts on the AR's start to get that "wet" look as they get heated up, my G17 always cycle smoothly and the Rem 700's (most likely to experience bad weather) still feel smooth. Admittedly, none of these weapons has been subjected to cold (under 32 deg) which was a common concern online when I began using it. So, for my personal experience, I have no concerns on it's use.
I run froglube on my pistols and ARs, my shotguns get gummy from it. I just wiped down my firearms and started using froglube with no issues except for shotguns being gummy. I wonder if different powders have different chemical reactions with froglube
Severyn26 is correct what ive done is completely stripped down my new gun completely degrease and warmed all metal parts on a cookie sheet applied frog lube never mix with breakfree clp or they will literally become a syrup like substance
And you dont need alot after the initial seasoning if u keep 1 micro fiber rag with some (not very much) frog lube you can just keep applying a thin coat after a basic field strip again do NOT mix at all with breakfree clp!!
I was interested in your recent evaluation of FrogLube. Candidly, I was not motivated to try it. Like you, I have used Break Free CLP for over 30 years and never had any reason to question it for any reason. I started to use it when living in SE Alaska where it rain 60 inches of rain a year and wanted to use a lubricant that would continue to function and protect well under very wet conditions. As I was often hunting or protecting from dangerous game in the bush, it was important to me to have a functioning weapon when needed. I can report that Break Free CLP never failed to keep all my weapons functioning and free of corrosion. I continue to use it until this day and recommend it to others when asked. Thank you for your work testing and reporting your findings. I consider you one of my very best go to resources as you always dispense relevant, accurate and useful information and recommendations. Keep up the excellent work.
I used FL on everything for a while. For the most part, I got a long well with it. I put some on my daughter's Cricket bolt before putting it away and the next time the girls got it out of the safe, it was almost like it was coated in glue. The rifle wouldn't function till it was all stripped off. For what it's worth, I did NOT strip the parts down to the bare metal finish before I applied it. Nor did I on any of my other guns but they didn't have a problem. My ARs run like a champ with it. I've quit using it though because I don't want to run the risk of this happening again. As of right now, I'm running Slip 2000 and Bestline engine oil treatment 50/50.
I used frog lube a bit... Its fine. But I prefer slip2k and aeroshell grease on my guns. I just prefer something that wont be a problem if I need to use a petroleum based lube for whatever reason. My agency let's us use Frog Lube if we want, but no one I know uses it. Our armored inspections don't include stuff like cleaning. It's our own responsibility. Our guns get inspected quarterly though, for common broken parts.
I wanted to like the froglube as well. I followed directions before and during application. It doesn't get real cold here in Alabama during the winter so when it gelled up on my truck gun and I had some light surface rust I was done with it.
Multiple issues with FL causing light strikes on guns that never had problems before or after. West German P226 shot in 40-50 degree rain was getting light strikes . Sprayed simple green in the firing pin block and it ran again for the rest of the day with only rain as lube haha. Winter time failure on my AR15 with similar outcomes. I used it for about 1-1.5 years with zero issue on all my guns and then everything started failing. I went Rand CLP and same thing. Fine for awhile and then progressive failure on multiple guns with oxidation. Fireclean has been the absolute worst. ALG Go juice is what I am using now and so far no problems at all.
I've used Wilson Shok-Buffs on full size 45ACP 1911's (Wilson, Baer, Brown, STI, Colt, SA) with no problem. On full size 9mm 1911's, I've had issues cycling a new round so it may or may not work on your 9mm Govt model depending on brand and ammo. The cycling problem went away when I removed the Shok-Buff. In 2014, Wilson published on its web site: Wilson Combat 9mm Pistol Break-In Instructions. "It states: A 9mm 1911 will not require a shok-buff. If you experience a failure to lock back on empty ... make sure there is no shok-buff installed ..." Chad from Ed Brown, said in December 2014 to not use a shok-buff on Ed Brown 9mm 1911's. This aligns with John McQuay's comments and suggestions.
Please excuse the late comment, I just "refound" your site. Having the same experiences with Frog lube, what I have found is it seems to work to apply more frog lube and wipe it as dry as possible. On 1911's I turn the frame upside down and apply the f/l to the main spring assy. then blow it out with air pressure. This is done with the pistol field stripped. I like the idea behind Frog lube and really want it to work, so I probably put up with a little more than I have to, but I also like the non toxic aspect.
frog lube works great if used correctly. however, in extreme environments or over the course of extreme circumstances, it is terrible. it gums up really bad and doesn't work so well without proper reapplication during long periods of time. there are plenty of synthetic lubes that are non toxic and work great if you're concerned with that even though every component of the cartridge minus the jacket is quite toxic... i used froglube for a short time in the marine corps cause a buddy had it. we used it the right way. we stopped cause if you don't have your magic lube with you, you have to borrow a buddies and then you're completely fucked. leave the food in the kitchen and the oil in the machines. mobile 1 synthetic is the best lube that i've used. weapon shield is pretty good too. mpro 7 (a previous lube designed by the guy who created weapon shield) and slip aren't bad. clp is epic crap. if all i did was shoot matches and didn't use a gun professionally and never went anywhere (ccw), then i'd use frog lube. but seeing as how guns are first and foremost for the real world and not for recreation or competitions and that is my primary use, i will never again use it.
Have been happy with Frog Lube over the last 5 plus years. Ran 3,000 rounds thought my Glock 17 after treating the gun and no re-application. End up cleaning the pistol after running frangible, “big” chunks of debris in the gun. Use it in my AR15s with no problems. Often run 150 to 200 rounds in a range session at least twice a month. Lube is like 9 vs .45 debate.
I might have to disqualify myself before I voice my experience. First, I did not fully clean my 1911's, I have 5. I just wiped them down really good. Used froglube, test fired a few of the guns, no issues, I was happy. Let some of the 1911's sit in the safe for several months, pulled back the slide and much to my surprise, it barely had enough spring energy to overcome the resistance of the froglube. I didn't waste any time cleaning all the froglube off the guns and relubed with my usual brands. Maybe not fair to Froglube but I had enough of it. Just my experience, not an opinion.
you're doing it wrong : “The BEST WAY to use FROG LUBE” You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer (NOT a heat gun), frog lube (paste is best), gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of “clean cotton” tee shirt, Field strip gun 1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best, use a nylon bristle brush {lead solvent/oil/etc. (if you have to use a pick now & then for stuck grit, use it){ leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub/brake clean to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & only oil "inside" of barrel, wipe it out, "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs” after cleaning them) " {re-inspect for cleanliness} 2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply (with cotton tee shirt squares or “gun” q-tip swabs) "very sparingly" , just enough frog lube to just cover any area (should turn to liquid from heat). {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole & channel, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also,wipe it off very well. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it. 3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two on all the separated & cleaned parts. Now, rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can off , with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun tapered "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt. 4.) Leave none behind, ( some people do, It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake it'll gum-up later when the gun heats up, not good) 5.) Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( then do the outside of slide & barrel, it will look GREAT ,also well protected) 4.) Do this with each part, the slide rails on grip/body, ) the outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.{ no frog lube inside there} Metal guide rod if spring is removable, (not the spring itself) every where on the "outside" of the barrel, “only”. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere !!!! Your DONE !! The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to. After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open). You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
I do all the weapons cleaning at our armory. It is important that you heat up the parts before you apply frog lube, then wipe off all excess. most people leave to much on! With that being said, I still hate the stuff. My dad swears by it... I like weapons shield for lube/protectant and regular hoppes 9 for solvent. Ive noticed a lot less wear on key parts using this product and use a lot less after first treatment. I run it in all platforms and have never found anything better and long lasting. you almost don't have to use any solvents to clean after shooting. OH and it also smells great lol.
Have used frog lube on my bolt guns for years. It works good on competition guns but when I take out my hunting gun it’s always sticky and jamming bolt up. Used it on pistols for short period but didn’t like it so stopped using it. It’s a product that is good when used correctly and with no other products. But what firearm owner doesn’t have other products hanging about
I like FrogLube. I don't use it for everything, but I like it for handguns and bolt rifles. A CCW gun especially because of the non-toxic composition. In a bolt rifle, it like that it has the consistency of a grease while cold. In the AR, I still prefer regular oil.
Paste. For the actual bolt, I'll warm it up a little with a heat gun and just wipe Frog Lube on it. I actually never bothered with the liquid because I have a couple of huge tubs of the paste and it's easy to apply in the situations I am using it for. If I want to lube inside the bolt rifle receiver, I'll just wipe some paste on the inside of the receiver with a finger.
Frog lube is intriguing for the smell and the non toxic props since I will be teaching my kids to shoot in the near future, but I have a lot of guns and it seems as detail cleaning and changing my ways might be a hard buy. We shall see. I don’t get to shoot all that often right now so if I had a gummed up action that needs attention that would turn me off. We shall see.
I had the same issue on my ar15 with nib bcg. I do like it for most pistols that see regular cleaning... especially if I'm cleaning anywhere my kids may eventually be.
I am a LEO and my department tried switching over to frog lube. Lets just say when we did about an 80-90% failure rate happened. I have been an LEO for 10yrs and it was the first time I had a malfunction of my service weapon and back up as well. But the also just switched over to it. We did not clean our guns completely to get rid of the old stuff (hoppies 9) like you did. But then when they saw what was happening we all had to bring in our guns and they stripped our glocks down to its individual pieces and put it into an ultrasonic cleaner. Then they worked again. I think the concept is a really good idea of frog lube. But it needs to play nice with the other people in the pool or I don’t think it will ever be a big player. I know I won’t use it again till it can play lnice with everyone. Till then I’ll stick with m-pro-7 that does play nice.
No they switched to stupid Remington oil wipes. We had people so stupid in our department that took the glue spray to put up targets think it was rem action cleaner and sprayed their guns with it. So they are hoping using the wipes is idiot proof.
I have used frog lube for years and had no issues no gumming even after having sat for a year , even applied to a gun that has been petroleum based lubed since 1943, a 1911.Works great on my 226,1911s,rem700,ar15s,Winchester rifles and revolvers. Here in Oregon using other clp`s I have had guns that sat for a while get rust spots but with frog lube have had zero rust since I started using it just my experience.I use the frog lube clp on the actions and paste on high wear areas and external areas. Hope this info helps other folks using this product.
PASTE: initial treatment CLP: cleaning. EXTREME: lubricant You have to break clean all petroleum oil off parts. If it becomes sluggish it’s because it’s mixing with petroleum base lube.
The paste must be melted FIRST then applied …..and then “wiped completely off”. The heat produced by the gun THEN will not melt EXCESSIVE frog lube applied…. because you wiped it down!
I’ve found that petroleum lubes burn off worse than Froglube, but any lube will disappear at around 200 rounds. 1) Use the Solvent or Super Degreaser 2) Lube with the Extreme. You’re done. Works great and never gets sticky!
Not trying to bash any other lube companies, but I have seen many guns go down with other lube and be fixed with slip 2000!! And run 3-4 times as long with that oil in them. It's incredible stuff!!
Like others have said, you have to wipe it all off. What could possibly “gel up”? I’ve used it for 5 years (and nothing else) and never had a problem. Makes everything look and run like brand new.
I have used Frog Lube for several years and here are my opinions on it. First I would not use the paste on .22's, revolvers, or bolt actions because they take a while to really heat up and the paste stays gummy for a while slowing things down and making the .22's malfunction. Secondly, The previously mentioned firearms have worked great with the Extreme. Thirdly, AR's and center fired semi auto pistols have worked great with both but I lean towards the Extreme because it is easier to apply. While I started with the paste, even on the AR's, I did not have the same issues you experienced with my safe queens. The bolts did run a little slow (gummy) on the first round but then it was off to the races. Finally, I just wanted to say that I find your video's very honest, informative, and entertaining. Please keep up the good work and be safe.
I have always used Breakfree clp for years until they changed the formula. Fortunately, I had enough of the old clp to get by. I have since moved onto Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil and have had great results with it.
I have really not experimented much at all with other products. I use Breakfree CLP. I doubt it is the best, but it works fine and that's been good enough for me. I have thought about trying the slick2000 products, but haven't gotten around to it (if it ain't broke...).
You’re suppose to heat the components first with a heat gun or hair dryer to open the pores in the metal. Apply the frog lube while the components are hot. Let air cool, lube it if you want then go fire.
You never mention "seasoning " your gun per the FrogLube process. Have done this? If not, I understand your issues. The original Froglube CLP does not work well with high end, tight 1911s; Extreme does.
Gerry, FrogLube stated that “seasoning” is not necessary. Also, even with the “extreme” mixing with Petroleum products will cause the product to fail. This is according to their reps.
I run Frog Lube in my retro XM177e2 and Slip 2000 in my MK12 (for comparison purposes). I find that the Frog Lube paste works great! I've never had trouble with it gumming up and it's more pleasant to deal with. Also, it almost seems to have 'conditioned' my bolt carrier and bolt. Even after I clean it and before I reapply, the bolt is very smooth feeling whereas the bolt in my MK12 still has that rough phosphate feeling. I don't really have a dog in the fight though, I've frequently used motor oil from a dipstick (which also worked fine). It's all snake oil in my opinion, it's just that Frog Lube is minty snake oil and that's a nice touch.
Don't use frog lube on 1911. Slowed the hammer and got light hammer strikes. Thought it was springs so changed them had same problem them cleaned the frog lube off and worked just fine. Never used frog lube again. Did worse in cold weather and my 1911 was completely cleaned before it was lived. Used shock buffs in 1911 until started having trouble with slide locking back. Pull the slide all the way to the rear and look were the slide catch is in relation to the slide lock notch. Mine would lock back under recoil took it out never had trouble again.
I served 20 years in the Army, I spent time in the 82nd and time as a Ranger instructor. I have spent over 48 month between Iraq and Afghanistan. And while I was in I used Frog Lube religiously on my M-4 Carbine with no issues it works amazing in hot weather and sand doesn't seem to magnetize to it like the old CLP. I have never had a Failure to operate from Frog Lube. Albeit I have only used the paste kind. It also cleans the BGC well.
Thanks for your experience. How did the Armory handle the FrogLube? I assume it wasn't a unit level thing. Did they just not lube the M4 while it was in their custody?
@@8541tactical Army Infantry armors don't clean or lubricate our weapons unless maybe one has to go for major services. All cleaning and lubrication is done at the user level.
Interesting. In the Marine Corps we would have to slather CLP on the rifles before checking them in. The Armorers would periodically hose them down with CLP while they were in the Armory. You had to take a rag with you when you checked out your rifle or you would be covered in CLP before you got back to the company area.
@@8541tactical HaHaHa that's funny we had a bigger budget in the Army and had dehumidifiers in our arms room. When I was a 1SG I took over and anti tank company and the 1st thing i had my Cpt. order was a dehumidifier for the arms room.
Great answer: “The BEST WAY to use FROG LUBE” You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer (NOT a heat gun), frog lube (paste is best), gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of “clean cotton” tee shirt, Field strip gun 1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best, use a nylon bristle brush {lead solvent/oil/etc. (if you have to use a pick now & then for stuck grit, use it){ leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub/brake clean to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & only oil "inside" of barrel, wipe it out, "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs” after cleaning them) " {re-inspect for cleanliness} 2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply (with cotton tee shirt squares or “gun” q-tip swabs) "very sparingly" , just enough frog lube to just cover any area (should turn to liquid from heat). {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole & channel, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also,wipe it off very well. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it. 3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two on all the separated & cleaned parts. Now, rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can off , with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun tapered "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt. 4.) Leave none behind, ( some people do, It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake it'll gum-up later when the gun heats up, not good) 5.) Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( then do the outside of slide & barrel, it will look GREAT ,also well protected) 4.) Do this with each part, the slide rails on grip/body, ) the outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.{ no frog lube inside there} Metal guide rod if spring is removable, (not the spring itself) every where on the "outside" of the barrel, “only”. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere !!!! Your DONE !! The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to. After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open). You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
I've been exclusively been using froglube (the paste) for about 5+ years now, on my multitude of guns. I have (what I'd humbly consider) a high round count Beretta PX-4, (I don't have an actual bullet count, but I'd easily say 8-10k rounds, with it firing 800-1000 rounds in a weekend, every six months or so, not including the occasional weekend plinking fun.) that I alcohol washed, heated, and frog lubed from day one, and the gun still cleans up nicely, and runs flawlessly. I've watched my best friend spend HOURS trying to get his mutually high round count PX-4 clean of the carbon buildup. He exclusively runs Hoppe's, for both cleaning, and lube. No disrespect to Hoppes, but his clean up work is MUCH harder than mine. (*Pulls his Spikes Tactical built AR with the Nickel Boron BCG outta the safe, (where it's been for easily well over a year now due to the new over reaching/vague california anti-AR laws) and dry cycles it*) Nope, still cycles fine. I can move the BCG using my thumb in the indentation. I built this gun approx. 4 years ago, and it's never had a problem with gumming up, and it's exclusively been run on froglube. It does maybe a class once a year, and, up until recently, the once every other month' abusive range day, where I pass it around to my friends/family/kids. The ONLY issue I can think of, out of ANY of my guns, is that, on my muzzle brakes, I get, what I'd imagine, is a greenish looking dust (mold?) on them, if they sit without being fired too long. A quick wipe down removes this with no ill effect on the metal under it. And ONLY at the muzzle brakes. (my AR has a Ferfrans CRD, and it sometimes shows up in the inside of the CRD, and my Socom16 gets it in the muzzle brake ports.) I'm not a professional, nor a competitor, but just an avid shooting enthusiast, and I'm a military aircraft mechanic by trade. I hope this helps in your quest to study more reports on it.
5 years of use on all weapon types. The froglube and Nickel Boron always gums up unless it is heat treated and wiped completely off the bcg. My Sig 226 had full light primer strike failure due to me putting to much on the gun and prob not fully removing the oil properly from such areas. My Springfield XDS45 and 9mm both had the same failure to fire due to it gumming the fireing pins. Again my fault but it is what it is. I had to pull the pins and fully re-lube with my new understanding of how it works. Worked fine since. A buddy kept his pistol in his car 24/7 and had light rust issues where the gun touched the holster. He never wiped his gun down or cared for it for months on end. My Ruger SR556 is amazingly smooth and easy to clean with froglube and the piston takes seconds to clean compared to oil based clps. Same story will all my other guns; easy to clean and smooth even after sitting in the safes for months. Clean and wipe down dry and it works flawlessly.
You're doing it wrong: “The BEST WAY to use FROG LUBE” You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer (NOT a heat gun), frog lube (paste is best), gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of “clean cotton” tee shirt, Field strip gun 1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best, use a nylon bristle brush {lead solvent/oil/etc. (if you have to use a pick now & then for stuck grit, use it){ leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub/brake clean to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & only oil "inside" of barrel, wipe it out, "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs” after cleaning them) " {re-inspect for cleanliness} 2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply (with cotton tee shirt squares or “gun” q-tip swabs) "very sparingly" , just enough frog lube to just cover any area (should turn to liquid from heat). {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole & channel, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also,wipe it off very well. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it. 3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two on all the separated & cleaned parts. Now, rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can off , with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun tapered "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt. 4.) Leave none behind, ( some people do, It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake it'll gum-up later when the gun heats up, not good) 5.) Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( then do the outside of slide & barrel, it will look GREAT ,also well protected) 4.) Do this with each part, the slide rails on grip/body, ) the outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.{ no frog lube inside there} Metal guide rod if spring is removable, (not the spring itself) every where on the "outside" of the barrel, “only”. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere !!!! Your DONE !! The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to. After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open). You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
I've used Frog Lube for years and never had any malfunctions and never had any stoppages under hard use. The reason I stopped using it is while my weapons ran well, I noticed a lot of wear, and Frog Lube doesn't have anti-wear additives like synthetic oils or greases. I still use it on my son's Ruger 10-22 and AR-22 as I feel like it does a good job with the nasty 22lr ammo.
One guy use it for years no we're hardlee min.were ever other guns used one few months showed were gd bit not with FL. No wear. A must best evel sinse pettrion plus it's world best oil lube made
I was an early adopter of froglube paste. I had the the same experience as you it would jell or get almost like a grease. I stopped using it. Now I mainly run ballistol. I do however use the rest of my froglube paste on buffer and buffer springs. It really quiets them down and smooths out the whole cycle.
You're doing it wrong: “The BEST WAY to use FROG LUBE” You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer (NOT a heat gun), frog lube (paste is best), gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of “clean cotton” tee shirt, Field strip gun 1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best, use a nylon bristle brush {lead solvent/oil/etc. (if you have to use a pick now & then for stuck grit, use it){ leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub/brake clean to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & only oil "inside" of barrel, wipe it out, "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs” after cleaning them) " {re-inspect for cleanliness} 2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply (with cotton tee shirt squares or “gun” q-tip swabs) "very sparingly" , just enough frog lube to just cover any area (should turn to liquid from heat). {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole & channel, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also,wipe it off very well. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it. 3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two on all the separated & cleaned parts. Now, rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can off , with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun tapered "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt. 4.) Leave none behind, ( some people do, It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake it'll gum-up later when the gun heats up, not good) 5.) Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( then do the outside of slide & barrel, it will look GREAT ,also well protected) 4.) Do this with each part, the slide rails on grip/body, ) the outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.{ no frog lube inside there} Metal guide rod if spring is removable, (not the spring itself) every where on the "outside" of the barrel, “only”. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere !!!! Your DONE !! The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to. After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open). You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
No problems with froglube on my 1911. Sat for about a year and put 200 rounds through it. Been sitting for about 6 months after that. I should check it. Tried shock buff on my beretta. No problems but I also don't think it is doing much.
right way: “The BEST WAY to use FROG LUBE” You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer (NOT a heat gun), frog lube (paste is best), gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of “clean cotton” tee shirt, Field strip gun 1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best, use a nylon bristle brush {lead solvent/oil/etc. (if you have to use a pick now & then for stuck grit, use it){ leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub/brake clean to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & only oil "inside" of barrel, wipe it out, "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs” after cleaning them) " {re-inspect for cleanliness} 2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply (with cotton tee shirt squares or “gun” q-tip swabs) "very sparingly" , just enough frog lube to just cover any area (should turn to liquid from heat). {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole & channel, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also,wipe it off very well. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it. 3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two on all the separated & cleaned parts. Now, rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can off , with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun tapered "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt. 4.) Leave none behind, ( some people do, It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake it'll gum-up later when the gun heats up, not good) 5.) Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( then do the outside of slide & barrel, it will look GREAT ,also well protected) 4.) Do this with each part, the slide rails on grip/body, ) the outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.{ no frog lube inside there} Metal guide rod if spring is removable, (not the spring itself) every where on the "outside" of the barrel, “only”. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere !!!! Your DONE !! The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to. After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open). You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
On the "froglube" matter I can say that I have had a similar experience with it "gumming" up after letting the weapon sit for awhile. I had the same experience with "another" product called fire clean. Really gummed up my shotguns. Never was an issue in the things that I shot regularly but if I let a gun sit for a time it turned into a sticky mess. The "safe" stuff seemed to turn into a a sticky varnish, almost like what happens when you cook with vegetable oil and then leave the pan in the sink for a day or so before washing it. In the end it seems that the petroleum based lubricants, like breakfree clp, have been the most reliable but it would be nice not to be able to use something that isn't "toxic".
“The BEST WAY to use FROG LUBE” You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer (NOT a heat gun), frog lube (paste is best), gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of “clean cotton” tee shirt, Field strip gun 1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best, use a nylon bristle brush {lead solvent/oil/etc. (if you have to use a pick now & then for stuck grit, use it){ leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub/brake clean to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & only oil "inside" of barrel, wipe it out, "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs” after cleaning them) " {re-inspect for cleanliness} 2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply (with cotton tee shirt squares or “gun” q-tip swabs) "very sparingly" , just enough frog lube to just cover any area (should turn to liquid from heat). {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole & channel, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also,wipe it off very well. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it. 3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two on all the separated & cleaned parts. Now, rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can off , with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun tapered "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt. 4.) Leave none behind, ( some people do, It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake it'll gum-up later when the gun heats up, not good) 5.) Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( then do the outside of slide & barrel, it will look GREAT ,also well protected) 4.) Do this with each part, the slide rails on grip/body, ) the outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.{ no frog lube inside there} Metal guide rod if spring is removable, (not the spring itself) every where on the "outside" of the barrel, “only”. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere !!!! Your DONE !! The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to. After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open). You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
I hope not. The heat generated in the 1911 could be enough to change the properties of the polymer, but I would hope that they took that into design consideration.
As far as 1911 goes. I also run chip power 10 mags I've never had the problem you mention but I'm running them in a Dan Wesson Specialist in not sure if that matters on the mag.
They may use a stronger recoil spring. If they are using a standard wire spring, you will likely notice issues when the spring nears the end of its service life.
@@8541tactical not sure on the poundage. But it is the factory spring. And I haven't changed it. It also is not a flat wire its a normal round wire spring.
“The BEST WAY to use FROG LUBE” You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer (NOT a heat gun), frog lube (paste is best), gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of “clean cotton” tee shirt, Field strip gun 1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best, use a nylon bristle brush {lead solvent/oil/etc. (if you have to use a pick now & then for stuck grit, use it){ leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub/brake clean to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & only oil "inside" of barrel, wipe it out, "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs” after cleaning them) " {re-inspect for cleanliness} 2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply (with cotton tee shirt squares or “gun” q-tip swabs) "very sparingly" , just enough frog lube to just cover any area (should turn to liquid from heat). {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole & channel, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also,wipe it off very well. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it. 3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two on all the separated & cleaned parts. Now, rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can off , with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun tapered "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt. 4.) Leave none behind, ( some people do, It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake it'll gum-up later when the gun heats up, not good) 5.) Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( then do the outside of slide & barrel, it will look GREAT ,also well protected) 4.) Do this with each part, the slide rails on grip/body, ) the outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.{ no frog lube inside there} Metal guide rod if spring is removable, (not the spring itself) every where on the "outside" of the barrel, “only”. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere !!!! Your DONE !! The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to. After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open). You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
You heat up the parts. You season the metal with the frog lube then let cool and wipe off completely. I’ve done this for years and I’ve never had an issue. Don’t use it like a regular lube and leave a bunch of it on.
I use it on all my firearms and 3 gun rifle. If you follow the directions.. and heat it like you said. Never had an issue. Not even on rifles that have sat for 6 months after being lubed
Exactly. His reference of a “light coat” indicated the problem. You have to wipe it completely off after heating, applying the frog lube and letting it sit. Basically the gun should appear dry but feel slick.
Yup so far this guy does not know how to use the product. You clean it, then heat the parts, the pores of the metal open and you apply the FrogLube. Let it sit for about 45 min, then wipe it off. Then as you shoot your gun, it heats up, and the FrogLube starts to work. The people that have problems with it, don't know how to use it. I've used it for the past 3 yrs and never had a problem, EVER.
Huge commendation to you for being so willing to give frog lube a second chance. I would never put that much thought and effort into a lube, if it lets me down it gets dumped. I use G96 on everything and have no complaints - in fact, it cracks me up that it smells like very strong bubblegum.
I use the Froglube Extreme on AR-15, AR10 bolt carrier groups after cleaning with MPro-7 without problems I use the Froglube paste on the exterior metal components (ie., barrels, receivers). Apply, then wipe excess off.
I have run the original paste and clp in my 1911 since new following the instructions. Put away dirty for a year, don't ask, cleaner with some frog lube solvent. Easy to clean, works like a champ! Recently converted to it with my revolvers, works great! I love it
Froglube has gummed up enough of my firearms that I threw it away. I have switched back to MILITEC-1 on my rifles and Mobil-1 20-50 (aircooled motorcycle oil) based on the recommendation from Scott at Sig Academy, for all my pistols.
I know enough about the 1911 that if I have any questions or concerns to go no further than Joe Chambers.
I was an avid believer and treated all my guns with it. Ran great for a while until I went back to the guns I didn’t shoot frequently. Gummed up over time-nothing with tight tolerances worked well after being Froglubed. Way too needy and not worth the extra attention. Went back to KG4, now giving EWL a shot.
I have used the frog lube wipes. I see you did not have them to test. Might be worth finding some to try. I can control how much is applied a bit better with them. I really only use them for surface protection of finger prints and rust prevention. Love your show.
Froglube works good enough for a desert environment. Use it on all my firearms. Admittedly, our winters are like summers for a lot of people. The temperature probably helps a little honestly, but I’m also a lower volume shooter.
Low Volume civilian shooter here. Frog lube works great for me. I do as they suggest and heat up the gun, apply, let cool and then wipe down completely. I don't ever add extra lube and leave it sitting anywhere. When i lived in South Dakota i knew i could always pull my guns out, no matter how cold it was, and they would function well. Now here in Arizona, the cold worry has mostly left, and it works great. When i shoot, i will wipe down with a clean rag and toss back in the safe. No need to apply any more lube for me. The FL sticks around and does it's job. This has been my experience with bolt guns, pistols, and a couple AR's. If you use it as they say, and never just dump liquid somewhere on your gun and use it, it should function well for most people.
I think you run into issues when you dump it on and leave it sit. When using FL you have to remember it is not like other petro based clp and it does not need to have a liquid layer ANYWHERE on the weapon. This excess liquid is what gums up and causes the issues.
I cannot speak for high volume shooters, but for a low volume shooter/hunters this is the best product i have found and have no intentions of changing anything.
Ok NOBODY burns 200 rounds in real world examples! Clean it and Frog lube it AGAIN.
Apply LIQUID frog lube and then “wipe off”!! The paste must be melted FIRST!
One of the main issues is contamination with petroleum base lubes and not following the proper application and cleaning instructions. I have applied it as recommended without failure on AR 15's, 1911's and so forth.
Great answer:
“The BEST WAY to use FROG LUBE”
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time.
Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer (NOT a heat gun), frog lube (paste is best), gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of “clean cotton” tee shirt, Field strip gun
1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best, use a nylon bristle brush {lead solvent/oil/etc. (if you have to use a pick now & then for stuck grit, use it){ leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub/brake clean to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & only oil "inside" of barrel, wipe it out, "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs” after cleaning them) " {re-inspect for cleanliness}
2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply (with cotton tee shirt squares or “gun” q-tip swabs) "very sparingly" , just enough frog lube to just cover any area (should turn to liquid from heat). {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole & channel, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also,wipe it off very well. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it.
3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two on all the separated & cleaned parts. Now, rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can off , with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun tapered "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt.
4.) Leave none behind, ( some people do, It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake it'll gum-up later when the gun heats up, not good)
5.) Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( then do the outside of slide & barrel, it will look GREAT ,also well protected)
4.) Do this with each part, the slide rails on grip/body, ) the outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.{ no frog lube inside there} Metal guide rod if spring is removable, (not the spring itself) every where on the "outside" of the barrel, “only”. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere !!!!
Your DONE !!
The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to.
After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open).
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
I like Militec. I was given a bottle more than a decade ago, when the Army was testing it. Later, it was taken out of inventory with the armorers emphasizing that CLP was the only authorized lube for the M4. I kept buying it. After a heat cycle and a wipe down Militec leaves a dry lube on the finish of the internals. It even cleared up some issues on problem SAWs. Good stuff. As for non toxic lubrication, has anyone tried just using vegetable oil? As far as smelling great, you couldn't do better than bacon grease, am I right?
mg556linked
Vegetable oils can oxidize overtime and go rancid. They also can cause issues when the gun gets hot.
Kind of sounds like the frog lube.
Good video. There are definitely 2 frog lube camps and both are screaming polar opposite things. I have used frog lube on my armalite ar15 and I for the first time recently I was having light primer strikes. Gun was fairly clean, maybe 500 rounds through it previously, then put in the safe and brought out to shoot and light primer strikes. Nothing felt tacky but I don’t know what else to blame this one. Wiped it down and put 2 drops of Lucas gun oil on my trigger mech. And the gun ran flawless through 500rounds that day. I, like you, want the frog lube to work but I’m having trouble fully believing in it.
Could it be poor quality of the shock buffers? The CZ Shadow 2 comes with a similar shock buffer installed & a couple of spares & my experience after close to 1000rds is....hardly any wear at all & no impact on performance of the slide in any negative way at all.... it too is supposed to eventually be replaced with a new fresh buffer.
My problems came after storage. Gummy and a paine to get off. Also attracted alot of dirt. Shooting in the dessert that's a big concern.
Have you tried Slip 2000 products?
I have not.
here is the link www.slip2000.com/slip2000_ewl.php
Please give it a shot!! It is definitely worth it. After trying probably 12-15 different lubes over the years, I have settled on slip2000 for almost everything.
Someone else already said it but the Shadow 2 comes with shock buffers installed and they must be made of a different material. I am still on my first one at a few thousand rounds. It looks a little beat up, but does not cause any failures like yours did. I think the CZ ones fail by ripping off and getting stuck in the action during recoil.
Spartan accuracy oil and carbon cleaner is by far the best I have used and does not gum up. Also non toxic and safe. Frog lube is a good product but think it’s done.
I have started using FlunaTec, love it.
I tried Seal1 and will never go back. Same basic idea just never gummy and everything cleans easier and easier as I go along.
i've heard that in (super) cold weather it has problems so maybe throw it in the freezer n see what happens
G96,,.....and DONE!
Rand clp has worked well for me. Bio based and no special needs like frog lube.
All plastic gun holster suck will turn a 1000 gun to hafe why it takes blueing to metal and distroy s ur gun use leather not plastic I ruined there nice gun blueing scratch s to metal they sux
Awesome I'm First.
I use it on my pistols, bolt guns, AR's, and my AK. I heat like the directions say to.. let sit for 15 minutes and wipe of the parts. I have never had any issues. Some of my pistols sit for 6 months.. and still no sticking or gummy stuff. But slip2000 seems to be good too.
When I first used Frog I loved it. After my guns sat a bit and I went to the range I hated it, every one of them stopped working because it had gummed up.
Been using Frog Lube for 2 years I have the paste and liquid CLP it gets tacky after sitting no matter what i do. I clean my guns prior to and after the range so i just deal with it. I won't buy it again... my ccw and shotguns have been stripped and coated with good ol petroleum products.
I've used it for years on my glock, AR,and various other guns. I've never had it get sticky, but I did have it harden up in the bottle I've have for about 4 years. Shaking the bottle fixed it though and I used it again. I've never had a problem, AR and glock haven't had a malfunction since I started using FrogLube. I just 'season' the metal as recommended 2 or 3 times and wipe of between applications then leave it alone. I do add a couple drops before running my AR and then wipe off when I get home, really helps keep it easy to clean.
I should also note I live in Texas and the cold is never a problem here lol
I hate froglube
You're doing it wrong.
“The BEST WAY to use FROG LUBE”
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time.
Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer (NOT a heat gun), frog lube (paste is best), gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of “clean cotton” tee shirt, Field strip gun
1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best, use a nylon bristle brush {lead solvent/oil/etc. (if you have to use a pick now & then for stuck grit, use it){ leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub/brake clean to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & only oil "inside" of barrel, wipe it out, "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs” after cleaning them) " {re-inspect for cleanliness}
2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply (with cotton tee shirt squares or “gun” q-tip swabs) "very sparingly" , just enough frog lube to just cover any area (should turn to liquid from heat). {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole & channel, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also,wipe it off very well. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it.
3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two on all the separated & cleaned parts. Now, rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can off , with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun tapered "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt.
4.) Leave none behind, ( some people do, It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake it'll gum-up later when the gun heats up, not good)
5.) Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( then do the outside of slide & barrel, it will look GREAT ,also well protected)
4.) Do this with each part, the slide rails on grip/body, ) the outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.{ no frog lube inside there} Metal guide rod if spring is removable, (not the spring itself) every where on the "outside" of the barrel, “only”. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere !!!!
Your DONE !!
The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to.
After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open).
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
I have used FrogLube for 4 years now since I bought my first handgun at 21. My wife and I took a pistol course with two glock 19's where we shot over a thousand rounds in a day. Both guns worked great, and they had not been cleaned in weeks without being shot before hand. But I have always heated the guns up put the Frog Lube on let the gun cold and wiped off the excess and then put a couple drops of the CLP where it needs to be. I am LE and I use it on my backup g43. I ran it through the qualification course no problems. But my duty Glock 17 I dont use FrogLube because we're required to clean them every quarter when we shoot at the range and I don't want to mix the cleaners.
What do you guys use rem oil or breakfree?
If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Motor oil.
Ehh..that frog lube..too much gum up..would you stake your life on something that has multiple tales of jamming up weapons?? Have you tried mil-comm? Mc2500 oil on your inners and tw25b on your slide..also the Wilson combat Ultima lube..I dig the universal..it's a petroleum mix..in my opinion after going on a gun oil shopping spree to find the best in my opinion (wife put a stop to that btw) these are the two best I've found..also I stay away from anything that says..clp..lubes are lubes and cleaners are cleaners..ok maybe it's just me but I don't want an oil on my gun that has a cleaning agent in it..let each do what they do best.
Hey John. Like you I used Break Free CLP for decades after the Corps. Lots of scrubbing and picks for cleaning. And of course never any failures or malfunctions. The downside of BF CLP is that it is a wet lube that collects particles, and leaks leaving a telltale stain.
A few years ago when I was a dedicated Hornady product user, I tried their One Shot and One Shot Extreme. Not the One Shot case lube, which I still use. The One Shot and One Shot Extreme is a cleaner and lubricant. The cleaner liquifies any fouling, you just wipe it off with a rag. The lubrication is a dry lube and does not collect particles that I've noticed, and does not liquify and leak at body temperature.
The only difference between the One Shot and One Shot Extreme cleaners is that the Extreme is rated for higher temperatures and friction for your semi auto weapons.
8 years of no issues and easier cleaning so far.
I researched Frog Lube after a fellow shooter recommended it to me as a non leaking lube. Like you, I found far too many negative reviews. I have no desire to encounter a malfunction at a critical time, so I passed on trying it. All petro chemicals have to be stripped? Your AR is most likely assembled with barrel grease. There is no way to thoroughly clean that. When you do rapid fire and heat it up, that grease will seep and interact badly with the Frog Lube.
Just my $.02 for what it's worth. Never thought I'd leave BF CLP, but this stuff is awsome.
P.S. I never had numb lips after using BF CLP. That made me laugh.
Breakthrough is the best oil and solvent I have found and it is safe. no harsh chemicals. Check it out!
I think the best thing for frog lube is for treating leather. As far as shock buffers go, I have 1000 rounds through a M9 no issues!
Back when I was tacticool I bought into frog lube because it was the tactical thing to do. I’ve moved on to better things I’m no longer tacticool so I no longer use froglube. All jokes aside I really think a lot of people have the same story.
Halfdollar 86 yup
I didn't hear you say anything about heating up the parts with a hairdryer or whatever before you lubed it up ? I just pulled out my pistol that has bin in the safe for two years to see and I have no gum up or anything so idk and I half to say I only ever used the paste stuff
Used frog lube for about 18 months here in Fl. on 2 AR's 4 Glocks, a couple of Rem 700 and a Rem 870. No issues to date. All were stripped first using their cleaner, then heated with a heat gun prior to application. When I get back from a range trip, it's typically a wipe and store evolution. I've seen the bolts on the AR's start to get that "wet" look as they get heated up, my G17 always cycle smoothly and the Rem 700's (most likely to experience bad weather) still feel smooth. Admittedly, none of these weapons has been subjected to cold (under 32 deg) which was a common concern online when I began using it. So, for my personal experience, I have no concerns on it's use.
frog lube is a waste just use 50w motor oil or grease.
I run froglube on my pistols and ARs, my shotguns get gummy from it.
I just wiped down my firearms and started using froglube with no issues except for shotguns being gummy. I wonder if different powders have different chemical reactions with froglube
Severyn26 is correct what ive done is completely stripped down my new gun completely degrease and warmed all metal parts on a cookie sheet applied frog lube never mix with breakfree clp or they will literally become a syrup like substance
And you dont need alot after the initial seasoning if u keep 1 micro fiber rag with some (not very much) frog lube you can just keep applying a thin coat after a basic field strip again do NOT mix at all with breakfree clp!!
I was interested in your recent evaluation of FrogLube. Candidly, I was not motivated to try it. Like you, I have used Break Free CLP for over 30 years and never had any reason to question it for any reason. I started to use it when living in SE Alaska where it rain 60 inches of rain a year and wanted to use a lubricant that would continue to function and protect well under very wet conditions. As I was often hunting or protecting from dangerous game in the bush, it was important to me to have a functioning weapon when needed. I can report that Break Free CLP never failed to keep all my weapons functioning and free of corrosion. I continue to use it until this day and recommend it to others when asked.
Thank you for your work testing and reporting your findings. I consider you one of my very best go to resources as you always dispense relevant, accurate and useful information and recommendations. Keep up the excellent work.
Thanks!
I used FL on everything for a while. For the most part, I got a long well with it. I put some on my daughter's Cricket bolt before putting it away and the next time the girls got it out of the safe, it was almost like it was coated in glue. The rifle wouldn't function till it was all stripped off. For what it's worth, I did NOT strip the parts down to the bare metal finish before I applied it. Nor did I on any of my other guns but they didn't have a problem. My ARs run like a champ with it. I've quit using it though because I don't want to run the risk of this happening again.
As of right now, I'm running Slip 2000 and Bestline engine oil treatment 50/50.
I used frog lube a bit... Its fine. But I prefer slip2k and aeroshell grease on my guns. I just prefer something that wont be a problem if I need to use a petroleum based lube for whatever reason. My agency let's us use Frog Lube if we want, but no one I know uses it. Our armored inspections don't include stuff like cleaning. It's our own responsibility. Our guns get inspected quarterly though, for common broken parts.
I wanted to like the froglube as well. I followed directions before and during application. It doesn't get real cold here in Alabama during the winter so when it gelled up on my truck gun and I had some light surface rust I was done with it.
Never had any of those problems with frog lube. I have used it for a few years on all my firearms...
Froglube slowed down my rifle in cold weather. It's really slick when fresh but slowed down in cold weather (40 and below).
Multiple issues with FL causing light strikes on guns that never had problems before or after. West German P226 shot in 40-50 degree rain was getting light strikes . Sprayed simple green in the firing pin block and it ran again for the rest of the day with only rain as lube haha. Winter time failure on my AR15 with similar outcomes. I used it for about 1-1.5 years with zero issue on all my guns and then everything started failing. I went Rand CLP and same thing. Fine for awhile and then progressive failure on multiple guns with oxidation. Fireclean has been the absolute worst. ALG Go juice is what I am using now and so far no problems at all.
I've used Wilson Shok-Buffs on full size 45ACP 1911's (Wilson, Baer, Brown, STI, Colt, SA) with no problem. On full size 9mm 1911's, I've had issues cycling a new round so it may or may not work on your 9mm Govt model depending on brand and ammo. The cycling problem went away when I removed the Shok-Buff. In 2014, Wilson published on its web site: Wilson Combat 9mm Pistol Break-In Instructions. "It states: A 9mm 1911 will not require a shok-buff. If you experience a failure to lock back on empty ... make sure there is no shok-buff installed ..." Chad from Ed Brown, said in December 2014 to not use a shok-buff on Ed Brown 9mm 1911's. This aligns with John McQuay's comments and suggestions.
Please excuse the late comment, I just "refound" your site. Having the same experiences with Frog lube, what I have found is it seems to work to apply more frog lube and wipe it as dry as possible. On 1911's I turn the frame upside down and apply the f/l to the main spring assy. then blow it out with air pressure. This is done with the pistol field stripped. I like the idea behind Frog lube and really want it to work, so I probably put up with a little more than I have to, but I also like the non toxic aspect.
frog lube works great if used correctly. however, in extreme environments or over the course of extreme circumstances, it is terrible. it gums up really bad and doesn't work so well without proper reapplication during long periods of time. there are plenty of synthetic lubes that are non toxic and work great if you're concerned with that even though every component of the cartridge minus the jacket is quite toxic... i used froglube for a short time in the marine corps cause a buddy had it. we used it the right way. we stopped cause if you don't have your magic lube with you, you have to borrow a buddies and then you're completely fucked. leave the food in the kitchen and the oil in the machines. mobile 1 synthetic is the best lube that i've used. weapon shield is pretty good too. mpro 7 (a previous lube designed by the guy who created weapon shield) and slip aren't bad. clp is epic crap. if all i did was shoot matches and didn't use a gun professionally and never went anywhere (ccw), then i'd use frog lube. but seeing as how guns are first and foremost for the real world and not for recreation or competitions and that is my primary use, i will never again use it.
Have been happy with Frog Lube over the last 5 plus years. Ran 3,000 rounds thought my Glock 17 after treating the gun and no re-application. End up cleaning the pistol after running frangible, “big” chunks of debris in the gun. Use it in my AR15s with no problems. Often run 150 to 200 rounds in a range session at least twice a month. Lube is like 9 vs .45 debate.
I might have to disqualify myself before I voice my experience. First, I did not fully clean my 1911's, I have 5. I just wiped them down really good. Used froglube, test fired a few of the guns, no issues, I was happy. Let some of the 1911's sit in the safe for several months, pulled back the slide and much to my surprise, it barely had enough spring energy to overcome the resistance of the froglube. I didn't waste any time cleaning all the froglube off the guns and relubed with my usual brands. Maybe not fair to Froglube but I had enough of it. Just my experience, not an opinion.
Thanks for the comment!
you're doing it wrong :
“The BEST WAY to use FROG LUBE”
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time.
Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer (NOT a heat gun), frog lube (paste is best), gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of “clean cotton” tee shirt, Field strip gun
1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best, use a nylon bristle brush {lead solvent/oil/etc. (if you have to use a pick now & then for stuck grit, use it){ leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub/brake clean to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & only oil "inside" of barrel, wipe it out, "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs” after cleaning them) " {re-inspect for cleanliness}
2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply (with cotton tee shirt squares or “gun” q-tip swabs) "very sparingly" , just enough frog lube to just cover any area (should turn to liquid from heat). {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole & channel, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also,wipe it off very well. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it.
3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two on all the separated & cleaned parts. Now, rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can off , with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun tapered "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt.
4.) Leave none behind, ( some people do, It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake it'll gum-up later when the gun heats up, not good)
5.) Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( then do the outside of slide & barrel, it will look GREAT ,also well protected)
4.) Do this with each part, the slide rails on grip/body, ) the outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.{ no frog lube inside there} Metal guide rod if spring is removable, (not the spring itself) every where on the "outside" of the barrel, “only”. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere !!!!
Your DONE !!
The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to.
After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open).
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
I do all the weapons cleaning at our armory. It is important that you heat up the parts before you apply frog lube, then wipe off all excess. most people leave to much on! With that being said, I still hate the stuff. My dad swears by it... I like weapons shield for lube/protectant and regular hoppes 9 for solvent. Ive noticed a lot less wear on key parts using this product and use a lot less after first treatment. I run it in all platforms and have never found anything better and long lasting. you almost don't have to use any solvents to clean after shooting. OH and it also smells great lol.
Have used frog lube on my bolt guns for years. It works good on competition guns but when I take out my hunting gun it’s always sticky and jamming bolt up. Used it on pistols for short period but didn’t like it so stopped using it. It’s a product that is good when used correctly and with no other products. But what firearm owner doesn’t have other products hanging about
I like FrogLube. I don't use it for everything, but I like it for handguns and bolt rifles. A CCW gun especially because of the non-toxic composition. In a bolt rifle, it like that it has the consistency of a grease while cold. In the AR, I still prefer regular oil.
Are you using the liquid or paste on the bolt guns?
Paste. For the actual bolt, I'll warm it up a little with a heat gun and just wipe Frog Lube on it. I actually never bothered with the liquid because I have a couple of huge tubs of the paste and it's easy to apply in the situations I am using it for. If I want to lube inside the bolt rifle receiver, I'll just wipe some paste on the inside of the receiver with a finger.
Frog lube is intriguing for the smell and the non toxic props since I will be teaching my kids to shoot in the near future, but I have a lot of guns and it seems as detail cleaning and changing my ways might be a hard buy. We shall see. I don’t get to shoot all that often right now so if I had a gummed up action that needs attention that would turn me off. We shall see.
I had the same issue on my ar15 with nib bcg. I do like it for most pistols that see regular cleaning... especially if I'm cleaning anywhere my kids may eventually be.
Great analysis as usual. Don't be afraid to include more handgun information. Thanks.
I been using ballistol for years and i didn't like froglube at all
I am a LEO and my department tried switching over to frog lube. Lets just say when we did about an 80-90% failure rate happened. I have been an LEO for 10yrs and it was the first time I had a malfunction of my service weapon and back up as well. But the also just switched over to it. We did not clean our guns completely to get rid of the old stuff (hoppies 9) like you did. But then when they saw what was happening we all had to bring in our guns and they stripped our glocks down to its individual pieces and put it into an ultrasonic cleaner. Then they worked again. I think the concept is a really good idea of frog lube. But it needs to play nice with the other people in the pool or I don’t think it will ever be a big player. I know I won’t use it again till it can play lnice with everyone. Till then I’ll stick with m-pro-7 that does play nice.
Did your department switch back to conventional oils or did they stick with the FrogLube?
No they switched to stupid Remington oil wipes. We had people so stupid in our department that took the glue spray to put up targets think it was rem action cleaner and sprayed their guns with it. So they are hoping using the wipes is idiot proof.
WOW. Just WOW.
LOL ya I know. Got some real good ones here.
So now I just take my guns home and clean them with mpro-7.
I have used frog lube for years and had no issues no gumming even after having sat for a year , even applied to a gun that has been petroleum based lubed since 1943, a 1911.Works great on my 226,1911s,rem700,ar15s,Winchester rifles and revolvers. Here in Oregon using other clp`s I have had guns that sat for a while get rust spots but with frog lube have had zero rust since I started using it just my experience.I use the frog lube clp on the actions and paste on high wear areas and external areas. Hope this info helps other folks using this product.
PASTE: initial treatment
CLP: cleaning.
EXTREME: lubricant
You have to break clean all petroleum oil off parts. If it becomes sluggish it’s because it’s mixing with petroleum base lube.
On all my 1911s frog lube works fine but in my ars it gummed up bad
The paste must be melted FIRST then applied …..and then “wiped completely off”. The heat produced by the gun THEN will not melt EXCESSIVE frog lube applied…. because you wiped it down!
I’ve found that petroleum lubes burn off worse than Froglube, but any lube will disappear at around 200 rounds. 1) Use the Solvent or Super Degreaser 2) Lube with the Extreme. You’re done. Works great and never gets sticky!
Slip2000 you have to check it out. It's non-toxic and works exactly like other oil. No special procedure, it just worksmic
Not trying to bash any other lube companies, but I have seen many guns go down with other lube and be fixed with slip 2000!! And run 3-4 times as long with that oil in them. It's incredible stuff!!
I have heard good things about slip2000
Like others have said, you have to wipe it all off. What could possibly “gel up”? I’ve used it for 5 years (and nothing else) and never had a problem. Makes everything look and run like brand new.
what happened to the followup? did you have any issues with this gun and frog lube? do you still use frog lube?
any user reports on Modern Spartan Systems Accuracy Oil? I'd like to see John check it out.
I have used Frog Lube for several years and here are my opinions on it. First I would not use the paste on .22's, revolvers, or bolt actions because they take a while to really heat up and the paste stays gummy for a while slowing things down and making the .22's malfunction. Secondly, The previously mentioned firearms have worked great with the Extreme. Thirdly, AR's and center fired semi auto pistols have worked great with both but I lean towards the Extreme because it is easier to apply. While I started with the paste, even on the AR's, I did not have the same issues you experienced with my safe queens. The bolts did run a little slow (gummy) on the first round but then it was off to the races. Finally, I just wanted to say that I find your video's very honest, informative, and entertaining. Please keep up the good work and be safe.
Thanks for the great comment!
Coconut oil and menthol
I have always used Breakfree clp for years until they changed the formula. Fortunately, I had enough of the old clp to get by. I have since moved onto Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil and have had great results with it.
Loved the smell of the old stuff. When we started getting the “new” formula, I thought it went bad. 😂
No... No to both. Cherrybalmz is the way to go for lubes.
I'm not never using it sounds like worthless crap
Honestly, I just keep going back to Ballistol…
I have really not experimented much at all with other products. I use Breakfree CLP. I doubt it is the best, but it works fine and that's been good enough for me. I have thought about trying the slick2000 products, but haven't gotten around to it (if it ain't broke...).
Rem oil and tetra gun grease....
FireClean ...
You’re suppose to heat the components first with a heat gun or hair dryer to open the pores in the metal. Apply the frog lube while the components are hot. Let air cool, lube it if you want then go fire.
Heating is optional according to FrogLube. Shooting will heat the weapon up far more effectively than a hair dryer.
8541 Tactical “heat gun” heating it while its apart seems to be best
You never mention "seasoning " your gun per the FrogLube process. Have done this? If not, I understand your issues. The original Froglube CLP does not work well with high end, tight 1911s; Extreme does.
Gerry, FrogLube stated that “seasoning” is not necessary. Also, even with the “extreme” mixing with Petroleum products will cause the product to fail. This is according to their reps.
I run Frog Lube in my retro XM177e2 and Slip 2000 in my MK12 (for comparison purposes). I find that the Frog Lube paste works great! I've never had trouble with it gumming up and it's more pleasant to deal with. Also, it almost seems to have 'conditioned' my bolt carrier and bolt. Even after I clean it and before I reapply, the bolt is very smooth feeling whereas the bolt in my MK12 still has that rough phosphate feeling.
I don't really have a dog in the fight though, I've frequently used motor oil from a dipstick (which also worked fine). It's all snake oil in my opinion, it's just that Frog Lube is minty snake oil and that's a nice touch.
Don't use frog lube on 1911. Slowed the hammer and got light hammer strikes. Thought it was springs so changed them had same problem them cleaned the frog lube off and worked just fine. Never used frog lube again.
Did worse in cold weather and my 1911 was completely cleaned before it was lived.
Used shock buffs in 1911 until started having trouble with slide locking back. Pull the slide all the way to the rear and look were the slide catch is in relation to the slide lock notch. Mine would lock back under recoil took it out never had trouble again.
I served 20 years in the Army, I spent time in the 82nd and time as a Ranger instructor. I have spent over 48 month between Iraq and Afghanistan. And while I was in I used Frog Lube religiously on my M-4 Carbine with no issues it works amazing in hot weather and sand doesn't seem to magnetize to it like the old CLP. I have never had a Failure to operate from Frog Lube. Albeit I have only used the paste kind. It also cleans the BGC well.
Thanks for your experience. How did the Armory handle the FrogLube? I assume it wasn't a unit level thing. Did they just not lube the M4 while it was in their custody?
@@8541tactical
Army Infantry armors don't clean or lubricate our weapons unless maybe one has to go for major services. All cleaning and lubrication is done at the user level.
Interesting. In the Marine Corps we would have to slather CLP on the rifles before checking them in. The Armorers would periodically hose them down with CLP while they were in the Armory. You had to take a rag with you when you checked out your rifle or you would be covered in CLP before you got back to the company area.
@@8541tactical
HaHaHa that's funny we had a bigger budget in the Army and had dehumidifiers in our arms room. When I was a 1SG I took over and anti tank company and the 1st thing i had my Cpt. order was a dehumidifier for the arms room.
Great answer:
“The BEST WAY to use FROG LUBE”
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time.
Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer (NOT a heat gun), frog lube (paste is best), gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of “clean cotton” tee shirt, Field strip gun
1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best, use a nylon bristle brush {lead solvent/oil/etc. (if you have to use a pick now & then for stuck grit, use it){ leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub/brake clean to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & only oil "inside" of barrel, wipe it out, "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs” after cleaning them) " {re-inspect for cleanliness}
2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply (with cotton tee shirt squares or “gun” q-tip swabs) "very sparingly" , just enough frog lube to just cover any area (should turn to liquid from heat). {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole & channel, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also,wipe it off very well. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it.
3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two on all the separated & cleaned parts. Now, rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can off , with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun tapered "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt.
4.) Leave none behind, ( some people do, It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake it'll gum-up later when the gun heats up, not good)
5.) Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( then do the outside of slide & barrel, it will look GREAT ,also well protected)
4.) Do this with each part, the slide rails on grip/body, ) the outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.{ no frog lube inside there} Metal guide rod if spring is removable, (not the spring itself) every where on the "outside" of the barrel, “only”. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere !!!!
Your DONE !!
The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to.
After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open).
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
When your done with test reclean the same way you did with this test and run a FireClean test.
That is a possibility.
At least if you're using fireclean you can fry some eggs in it for breakfast.
I've been exclusively been using froglube (the paste) for about 5+ years now, on my multitude of guns.
I have (what I'd humbly consider) a high round count Beretta PX-4, (I don't have an actual bullet count, but I'd easily say 8-10k rounds, with it firing 800-1000 rounds in a weekend, every six months or so, not including the occasional weekend plinking fun.) that I alcohol washed, heated, and frog lubed from day one, and the gun still cleans up nicely, and runs flawlessly.
I've watched my best friend spend HOURS trying to get his mutually high round count PX-4 clean of the carbon buildup. He exclusively runs Hoppe's, for both cleaning, and lube. No disrespect to Hoppes, but his clean up work is MUCH harder than mine.
(*Pulls his Spikes Tactical built AR with the Nickel Boron BCG outta the safe, (where it's been for easily well over a year now due to the new over reaching/vague california anti-AR laws) and dry cycles it*)
Nope, still cycles fine. I can move the BCG using my thumb in the indentation. I built this gun approx. 4 years ago, and it's never had a problem with gumming up, and it's exclusively been run on froglube. It does maybe a class once a year, and, up until recently, the once every other month' abusive range day, where I pass it around to my friends/family/kids.
The ONLY issue I can think of, out of ANY of my guns, is that, on my muzzle brakes, I get, what I'd imagine, is a greenish looking dust (mold?) on them, if they sit without being fired too long. A quick wipe down removes this with no ill effect on the metal under it. And ONLY at the muzzle brakes. (my AR has a Ferfrans CRD, and it sometimes shows up in the inside of the CRD, and my Socom16 gets it in the muzzle brake ports.)
I'm not a professional, nor a competitor, but just an avid shooting enthusiast, and I'm a military aircraft mechanic by trade.
I hope this helps in your quest to study more reports on it.
I’ve never had a problem with it. I only use it on my AR’s
Excellent video as always
5 years of use on all weapon types. The froglube and Nickel Boron always gums up unless it is heat treated and wiped completely off the bcg. My Sig 226 had full light primer strike failure due to me putting to much on the gun and prob not fully removing the oil properly from such areas. My Springfield XDS45 and 9mm both had the same failure to fire due to it gumming the fireing pins. Again my fault but it is what it is. I had to pull the pins and fully re-lube with my new understanding of how it works. Worked fine since. A buddy kept his pistol in his car 24/7 and had light rust issues where the gun touched the holster. He never wiped his gun down or cared for it for months on end. My Ruger SR556 is amazingly smooth and easy to clean with froglube and the piston takes seconds to clean compared to oil based clps. Same story will all my other guns; easy to clean and smooth even after sitting in the safes for months. Clean and wipe down dry and it works flawlessly.
You're doing it wrong:
“The BEST WAY to use FROG LUBE”
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time.
Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer (NOT a heat gun), frog lube (paste is best), gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of “clean cotton” tee shirt, Field strip gun
1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best, use a nylon bristle brush {lead solvent/oil/etc. (if you have to use a pick now & then for stuck grit, use it){ leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub/brake clean to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & only oil "inside" of barrel, wipe it out, "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs” after cleaning them) " {re-inspect for cleanliness}
2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply (with cotton tee shirt squares or “gun” q-tip swabs) "very sparingly" , just enough frog lube to just cover any area (should turn to liquid from heat). {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole & channel, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also,wipe it off very well. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it.
3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two on all the separated & cleaned parts. Now, rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can off , with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun tapered "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt.
4.) Leave none behind, ( some people do, It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake it'll gum-up later when the gun heats up, not good)
5.) Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( then do the outside of slide & barrel, it will look GREAT ,also well protected)
4.) Do this with each part, the slide rails on grip/body, ) the outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.{ no frog lube inside there} Metal guide rod if spring is removable, (not the spring itself) every where on the "outside" of the barrel, “only”. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere !!!!
Your DONE !!
The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to.
After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open).
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
I've used Frog Lube for years and never had any malfunctions and never had any stoppages under hard use. The reason I stopped using it is while my weapons ran well, I noticed a lot of wear, and Frog Lube doesn't have anti-wear additives like synthetic oils or greases. I still use it on my son's Ruger 10-22 and AR-22 as I feel like it does a good job with the nasty 22lr ammo.
One guy use it for years no we're hardlee min.were ever other guns used one few months showed were gd bit not with FL. No wear. A must best evel sinse pettrion plus it's world best oil lube made
I was an early adopter of froglube paste. I had the the same experience as you it would jell or get almost like a grease. I stopped using it. Now I mainly run ballistol. I do however use the rest of my froglube paste on buffer and buffer springs. It really quiets them down and smooths out the whole cycle.
You're doing it wrong:
“The BEST WAY to use FROG LUBE”
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time.
Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer (NOT a heat gun), frog lube (paste is best), gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of “clean cotton” tee shirt, Field strip gun
1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best, use a nylon bristle brush {lead solvent/oil/etc. (if you have to use a pick now & then for stuck grit, use it){ leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub/brake clean to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & only oil "inside" of barrel, wipe it out, "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs” after cleaning them) " {re-inspect for cleanliness}
2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply (with cotton tee shirt squares or “gun” q-tip swabs) "very sparingly" , just enough frog lube to just cover any area (should turn to liquid from heat). {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole & channel, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also,wipe it off very well. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it.
3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two on all the separated & cleaned parts. Now, rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can off , with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun tapered "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt.
4.) Leave none behind, ( some people do, It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake it'll gum-up later when the gun heats up, not good)
5.) Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( then do the outside of slide & barrel, it will look GREAT ,also well protected)
4.) Do this with each part, the slide rails on grip/body, ) the outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.{ no frog lube inside there} Metal guide rod if spring is removable, (not the spring itself) every where on the "outside" of the barrel, “only”. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere !!!!
Your DONE !!
The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to.
After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open).
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
No problems with froglube on my 1911. Sat for about a year and put 200 rounds through it. Been sitting for about 6 months after that. I should check it. Tried shock buff on my beretta. No problems but I also don't think it is doing much.
right way:
“The BEST WAY to use FROG LUBE”
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time.
Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer (NOT a heat gun), frog lube (paste is best), gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of “clean cotton” tee shirt, Field strip gun
1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best, use a nylon bristle brush {lead solvent/oil/etc. (if you have to use a pick now & then for stuck grit, use it){ leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub/brake clean to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & only oil "inside" of barrel, wipe it out, "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs” after cleaning them) " {re-inspect for cleanliness}
2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply (with cotton tee shirt squares or “gun” q-tip swabs) "very sparingly" , just enough frog lube to just cover any area (should turn to liquid from heat). {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole & channel, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also,wipe it off very well. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it.
3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two on all the separated & cleaned parts. Now, rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can off , with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun tapered "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt.
4.) Leave none behind, ( some people do, It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake it'll gum-up later when the gun heats up, not good)
5.) Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( then do the outside of slide & barrel, it will look GREAT ,also well protected)
4.) Do this with each part, the slide rails on grip/body, ) the outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.{ no frog lube inside there} Metal guide rod if spring is removable, (not the spring itself) every where on the "outside" of the barrel, “only”. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere !!!!
Your DONE !!
The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to.
After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open).
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
On the "froglube" matter I can say that I have had a similar experience with it "gumming" up after letting the weapon sit for awhile. I had the same experience with "another" product called fire clean. Really gummed up my shotguns. Never was an issue in the things that I shot regularly but if I let a gun sit for a time it turned into a sticky mess. The "safe" stuff seemed to turn into a a sticky varnish, almost like what happens when you cook with vegetable oil and then leave the pan in the sink for a day or so before washing it. In the end it seems that the petroleum based lubricants, like breakfree clp, have been the most reliable but it would be nice not to be able to use something that isn't "toxic".
“The BEST WAY to use FROG LUBE”
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time.
Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer (NOT a heat gun), frog lube (paste is best), gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of “clean cotton” tee shirt, Field strip gun
1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best, use a nylon bristle brush {lead solvent/oil/etc. (if you have to use a pick now & then for stuck grit, use it){ leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub/brake clean to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & only oil "inside" of barrel, wipe it out, "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs” after cleaning them) " {re-inspect for cleanliness}
2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply (with cotton tee shirt squares or “gun” q-tip swabs) "very sparingly" , just enough frog lube to just cover any area (should turn to liquid from heat). {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole & channel, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also,wipe it off very well. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it.
3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two on all the separated & cleaned parts. Now, rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can off , with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun tapered "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt.
4.) Leave none behind, ( some people do, It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake it'll gum-up later when the gun heats up, not good)
5.) Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( then do the outside of slide & barrel, it will look GREAT ,also well protected)
4.) Do this with each part, the slide rails on grip/body, ) the outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.{ no frog lube inside there} Metal guide rod if spring is removable, (not the spring itself) every where on the "outside" of the barrel, “only”. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere !!!!
Your DONE !!
The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to.
After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open).
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
You had previously reported on the heat issues during that range trip. Could that have been a factor in the demise of the shock buffer?
I hope not. The heat generated in the 1911 could be enough to change the properties of the polymer, but I would hope that they took that into design consideration.
As far as 1911 goes. I also run chip power 10 mags I've never had the problem you mention but I'm running them in a Dan Wesson Specialist in not sure if that matters on the mag.
They may use a stronger recoil spring. If they are using a standard wire spring, you will likely notice issues when the spring nears the end of its service life.
@@8541tactical not sure on the poundage. But it is the factory spring. And I haven't changed it. It also is not a flat wire its a normal round wire spring.
Great review
“The BEST WAY to use FROG LUBE”
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time.
Hey I'll try to make this short best way for frog lube. NEEDED: hair dryer (NOT a heat gun), frog lube (paste is best), gun cleaning tapered "Q" tip if you have them {they don't leave fibers}, small pieces of “clean cotton” tee shirt, Field strip gun
1.) clean gun, one part at a time, with what ever you think gets it "clean" best, use a nylon bristle brush {lead solvent/oil/etc. (if you have to use a pick now & then for stuck grit, use it){ leave no "oil" when done} use something like gun scrub/brake clean to "finish" that dries clean & quick.( if you use oil, at all, small trigger parts sparingly "only" ! { clean & only oil "inside" of barrel, wipe it out, "as much as possible" (carefully/sparingly, do not to get "oil" anywhere else, not even guide rod “springs” after cleaning them) " {re-inspect for cleanliness}
2.) with supplies at hand, heat slide with hair dryer as hot as you can stand , inside & out ,{have glove to hold} immediately apply (with cotton tee shirt squares or “gun” q-tip swabs) "very sparingly" , just enough frog lube to just cover any area (should turn to liquid from heat). {outside of slide too}(well into the rails etc.) {keep it away from firing pin hole & channel, if your firing pin comes out easily, pull it, clean it , dry it, & use frog lube on it also,wipe it off very well. Do “NOT “ frog lube the firing pin channel , just clean & dry it.
3.) Let the frog lube sit for a minute or two on all the separated & cleaned parts. Now, rub off "EVERY BIT" & I mean "every bit" , you can off , with the cotton tee shirt squares & Gun tapered "Q" Tips. Always finish with the TEE shirt.
4.) Leave none behind, ( some people do, It doesn't work that way, rookie mistake it'll gum-up later when the gun heats up, not good)
5.) Try not to touch parts too much with your hands after done with each part.( then do the outside of slide & barrel, it will look GREAT ,also well protected)
4.) Do this with each part, the slide rails on grip/body, ) the outside of mags,(unloaded),{wipe out, mag well w/clean cotton square,alcohol.{ no frog lube inside there} Metal guide rod if spring is removable, (not the spring itself) every where on the "outside" of the barrel, “only”. Leave no hint of frog lube anywhere !!!!
Your DONE !!
The results are well protected , "slipperier than puppy poop" moving parts that don't get "GUMMED" "UP" , because there's no oil for powder residue to "STICK" to.
After you put it back together, & work the slide, fast , then locked back & release it, then fast again (sling shot "without" the mag in to lock it open).
You'll SHIT at the results , I mean it. It's a lot less work than it sounds, more efficient, cleaner procedure. After you do this once ,it will go a lot faster the next time. Hope you really do this according to what I wrote, especially if you have a Sig, or HK , Glock, CZ, etc. because what you thought you had, just got better.
How about a comparison of household motor oil? Regular 10w30 vs. synthetic 10w30?
Do you think there would be a noticeable difference?
I am actually considering a motor-oil rundown on one of the ARs. The problem with it on a handgun is it will destroy clothing.