+Casually Cataclysmic Thank you much, I will say, I am not looking forward to the Chaos Warriors, 20+ of them on these bases is going to kill me for sure ;)
+Hooves of Doom So many, this was certainly a lengthy project. The real fun part of course is when I have to do my chaos warriors on these bases. Oh boy.
Great video Vince. I just finished my last Thundertusk and put it on one of these bases. The only step which I feel didn't work for me was the final airbrush of white over the ice. I felt it took away from the shine and depth which was created before (maybe I did it a little too heavy?) regardless I took a risk and air brushed some gloss varnish to bring the shine back it I think it came out alright. I'll post the finished product on PmP probably next month.
You are right, it does kill the shine, but that is intentional, as ice around it's cracks has a very fuzzy frosted look. That being said, yes, the key is to have very thin light lines so the shine and depth is retained in the other areas as a contrast. You were right though to use the gloss varnish, I have done the same things a few times when i didn't nail the airbrush part exactly myself, so well done. Look forward to the seeing the finished product.
Vince Venturella , so was the air brush frosting meant to only be around the cracks? or all of the ice? this may have been where I stuffed up lol. I did it on top of the whole ice
Absolutely love your work Vince, you are atleast 80% of the reason my painting has improved as much as it has. The thing i always struggle with is the colour theory (i try i just don’t fully get it still) I’m looking at creating an ice based army but i wanted to shift the colours to something closer to Rainbow Six Siege’s black ice wallpaper (if i could upload a photo i would) it’s more of a greener ice. Would you be able to suggest some colours/paints to get a similar effect? Thank you for all your hard work and teaching us all as much as you have! We are very lucky to have your content 😊
I was thinking this technique could be used to give my future vampire army a swampy look. But ... the thought of doing something like this for a ton of 20mm bases almost made me pass out.
I'm doing the edge of a beach base with an Octopus mostly on the sand (a shallow water base). Was going to use 2-part epoxy "bar top" resin, but would you recommend the Woodland Scenics Realistic Water instead for a shallow base? I guess I'll save the 2 part resin for deeper bases, I see this product says to pour 1/8" at a time...THANKS!😉
+Ehson T I would love to see that and welcome any other tricks our ideas you have. I didn't do this off of anyone else's technique, I just made this up through trial and error, so I am sure there is room for improvement.
I will advise to avoid the Vallejo crackle medium. I have had very little success with it. Part of the issue with the Vallejo is that it remains water soluble even after drying. The directions are to apply it between layers of paint, but any layers of water based paints [washes, highlights, etc...] over the crackle medium destroys the texture. There are better products available than the Vallejo crackle.
+Jon Kreher I agree, you have to basically use an oil paint over the top or varnish the heck out of the area, it's an interesting product, but not the best for sure.
Great video, just wish you would have shown how you pinned the horse statue and then attached to the cork. Did you just superglue it to the cork and then put snow on top of it? If so, is that a weak joint? Not sure how heavy the horse is and if cork holds up. Totally new to basing and appreciate additional detail/tricks. Thanks!
So when I was ready with the base done, I pinned the model in. I always pin every model, single pin up through the foot, then all the way down through the cork and the base. I use paper clips for the pins (larger grade clips) so it's very sturdy and strong. Hope that helps and thanks again.
When you drybrushed white over the crackle material, some must have gotten on the clear "ice" (the Woodland Scenics "Realistic Water" product). How did you clean and dry brush dullness/thin paint off the shiny water? A little alcohol on a Qtip or something?
So honestly, it did not, I was pretty careful, that being said, if it did happen, yeah, a little water and quick wipe would do it, worst case, some alcohol and a q-tip as you said.
@@VinceVenturella Pretty careful with dry brushing? Oh Vince, I just blend it all around like I'm putting blush or powder on my face...it's a make-up brush after all!!🤣🤣🤣 (kidding aside, "careful dry brushing never occured to me...I mask stuff off with Silly Putty when dry brushing...thanks for the extra tip!!😂🤣😂💙)!
They make those bases with that rough texture not only to have a pseudo-basing for those who don't care to do basing, but to provide a rough surface so that your basing materials will hold better to the base.
+Dominic Fawver Yep, I have tried those and vallejo. I like the WS better in the end. Obviously in this case, I didn't use them as it I wanted it completely flat, but they are a great product. In general I have been happy with most of the WS products I have bought.
Do you do anything to protect the bases? I imagine if you use a matte varnish it might ruin the effect of the water/snow. Do you just leave them as is? Do you ever use a varnish on your bases? Do you always paint your minis separate from the bases and attach them after?
Nope, I just leave them. I don't varnish them. I don't really see any issue with them, and I don't move my figures with foam, I move them with magnets, so I don't see them get damaged. If they ever get dusty or anything, you can just dust them with a light, soft brush.
+john tailby I know and it's killing me. I am actually using the same sound equipment for both things, just for some reason, it is coming through strangely on these videos when I put them together. I am going to play around with it more and determine what is going on.
I give it a good long while. My rule of thumb is usually about 8 hours at minimum, assuming you are not in a rush, giving things a full day to dry can be good.
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Ahah, I was specifically looking for something like this, you really have videos for everything Vince, such a boss !
Happy to help. :)
That's a huge amount of effort to put into your bases, but totally worth every step. Beautiful.
+Stu Gibson Thank you sir, much appreciated.
Great video, can't wait to use this on some models
Have fun! :)
Thanks!
I have been on a realistic water spree since AOS started, might have to try this out. You did an excellent job, as usual.
+Casually Cataclysmic Thank you much, I will say, I am not looking forward to the Chaos Warriors, 20+ of them on these bases is going to kill me for sure ;)
These hobby cheating are the best tutorials out there. Thanks Vince.
+K-man Awesome Thank you sir, I am not worthy of such praise but I appreciate it.
My wife is going to love these for her Space Wolves.
Awesome tutorial, I never did ice in more than 20 years painting miniatures. Maybe is time to try it.
+Victor Ques (Neojarlaxe) It was fun to figure out and I do like the effect, give it a shot and tell me what I am doing wrong ;)
Awesome video Vince. So many cracks and strokes.
+Hooves of Doom So many, this was certainly a lengthy project. The real fun part of course is when I have to do my chaos warriors on these bases. Oh boy.
Nice (seemingly attainable) result! I definitely need something to distract from the fact that my frost sabers are actually fenrisian wolves. Thanks!
Glad I could help!
Nice work vince! Loving these tutorial videos and the Knights look great!
+AS I Thank you sir, I have more coming soon.
Here I am, discovering those videos after 7 years 🎉
Glad you like them!
Great video Vince. I just finished my last Thundertusk and put it on one of these bases. The only step which I feel didn't work for me was the final airbrush of white over the ice. I felt it took away from the shine and depth which was created before (maybe I did it a little too heavy?) regardless I took a risk and air brushed some gloss varnish to bring the shine back it I think it came out alright. I'll post the finished product on PmP probably next month.
You are right, it does kill the shine, but that is intentional, as ice around it's cracks has a very fuzzy frosted look. That being said, yes, the key is to have very thin light lines so the shine and depth is retained in the other areas as a contrast. You were right though to use the gloss varnish, I have done the same things a few times when i didn't nail the airbrush part exactly myself, so well done. Look forward to the seeing the finished product.
Vince Venturella , so was the air brush frosting meant to only be around the cracks? or all of the ice? this may have been where I stuffed up lol. I did it on top of the whole ice
Yes, you just very thinly follow the ice cracks, that creates the contrast ;) - something for next time then.
Vince Venturella haha lesson learned!
Absolutely love your work Vince, you are atleast 80% of the reason my painting has improved as much as it has. The thing i always struggle with is the colour theory (i try i just don’t fully get it still) I’m looking at creating an ice based army but i wanted to shift the colours to something closer to Rainbow Six Siege’s black ice wallpaper (if i could upload a photo i would) it’s more of a greener ice. Would you be able to suggest some colours/paints to get a similar effect? Thank you for all your hard work and teaching us all as much as you have! We are very lucky to have your content 😊
Shift toward blue/green or turquoise, aqua and then desautrate as normal with whites and such.
I was thinking this technique could be used to give my future vampire army a swampy look. But ... the thought of doing something like this for a ton of 20mm bases almost made me pass out.
+OnceBitten360 Swamp bases are actually pretty quick and easy by comparison, I added it to the list and I'll try to make it an earlier episode.
+Vince Venturella Yes, please make a swamp basing video!
+Joseph Matarazzo I am trying to find a mini for it, it's in the list for sure. :)
+Vince Venturella You could use the Glotkin for it!
I'm doing the edge of a beach base with an Octopus mostly on the sand (a shallow water base). Was going to use 2-part epoxy "bar top" resin, but would you recommend the Woodland Scenics Realistic Water instead for a shallow base? I guess I'll save the 2 part resin for deeper bases, I see this product says to pour 1/8" at a time...THANKS!😉
Yeah, for something small like that, the woodland scenics is just fine, You generally only need the two part when you are going to something serious.
Really enjoyed as always. I might try something similar soon and let you know how it goes.
+Ehson T I would love to see that and welcome any other tricks our ideas you have. I didn't do this off of anyone else's technique, I just made this up through trial and error, so I am sure there is room for improvement.
I will advise to avoid the Vallejo crackle medium. I have had very little success with it. Part of the issue with the Vallejo is that it remains water soluble even after drying. The directions are to apply it between layers of paint, but any layers of water based paints [washes, highlights, etc...] over the crackle medium destroys the texture. There are better products available than the Vallejo crackle.
+Jon Kreher I agree, you have to basically use an oil paint over the top or varnish the heck out of the area, it's an interesting product, but not the best for sure.
Great video, just wish you would have shown how you pinned the horse statue and then attached to the cork. Did you just superglue it to the cork and then put snow on top of it? If so, is that a weak joint? Not sure how heavy the horse is and if cork holds up. Totally new to basing and appreciate additional detail/tricks. Thanks!
So when I was ready with the base done, I pinned the model in. I always pin every model, single pin up through the foot, then all the way down through the cork and the base. I use paper clips for the pins (larger grade clips) so it's very sturdy and strong.
Hope that helps and thanks again.
When you drybrushed white over the crackle material, some must have gotten on the clear "ice" (the Woodland Scenics "Realistic Water" product). How did you clean and dry brush dullness/thin paint off the shiny water? A little alcohol on a Qtip or something?
So honestly, it did not, I was pretty careful, that being said, if it did happen, yeah, a little water and quick wipe would do it, worst case, some alcohol and a q-tip as you said.
@@VinceVenturella Pretty careful with dry brushing? Oh Vince, I just blend it all around like I'm putting blush or powder on my face...it's a make-up brush after all!!🤣🤣🤣 (kidding aside, "careful dry brushing never occured to me...I mask stuff off with Silly Putty when dry brushing...thanks for the extra tip!!😂🤣😂💙)!
They make those bases with that rough texture not only to have a pseudo-basing for those who don't care to do basing, but to provide a rough surface so that your basing materials will hold better to the base.
Interesting, it only causes me challenges, but I am glad to know it has a purpose and is helping someone. :)
Very nice looking bases.
Have you ever used Woodland Scenics water effects? I have used it some of my models where I wanted to add ripples and such.
+Dominic Fawver Yep, I have tried those and vallejo. I like the WS better in the end. Obviously in this case, I didn't use them as it I wanted it completely flat, but they are a great product. In general I have been happy with most of the WS products I have bought.
Incredible Vince!!!!
+utubenoobie01 Thank you sir, much appreciated.
Loved this looks so real
+Sean Kavanagh Thank you, greatly appreciated.
Any tips for doing a ton of these on 25mm size bases?
hello, sorry if this was already answered , What stick are you using to mix your paints in your palette?
Do you do anything to protect the bases? I imagine if you use a matte varnish it might ruin the effect of the water/snow. Do you just leave them as is? Do you ever use a varnish on your bases? Do you always paint your minis separate from the bases and attach them after?
Nope, I just leave them. I don't varnish them. I don't really see any issue with them, and I don't move my figures with foam, I move them with magnets, so I don't see them get damaged. If they ever get dusty or anything, you can just dust them with a light, soft brush.
The sound on these hobby videos isn't as clear as on the G+ sessions is there any way you can use that sound gear?
+john tailby I know and it's killing me. I am actually using the same sound equipment for both things, just for some reason, it is coming through strangely on these videos when I put them together. I am going to play around with it more and determine what is going on.
+john tailby oooohhhhh, of course, it's just so comfortable.
Hey Vince. I know this video has been out a little while now. Did you pin the knights to that base, or did you glue them?
Pinned and glued. ONe horse hoof.
Hi, how long must I wait till I put the second clear layer of "water" on?thanks
I give it a good long while. My rule of thumb is usually about 8 hours at minimum, assuming you are not in a rush, giving things a full day to dry can be good.
Love the tutorial!
+Sebastien Blaue Thank you, much appreciated!