It’s really easy, just make sure you use the trick with the wire to push the pawls in when re-installing the freehub. Also apply a bit of thread lock to the axle end cap to prevent it coming loose as I found out when my axle became loose again.
Great video, better thank the hunt one (saying that the lads are very helpful). I had awful issues getting that seal to sit into the groove, I still think it's a bit tight when I tighten the end cap it seems to squeeze the seal and stop the wheel from spinning freely
Hey dude did you ever find a fix to this? I just got a new free hub and anytime it's tighter than finger tight the seal seems to bind up. I believe it is seated in the free hub groove and hubshell properly.
You can trap the pawls down in place with the seal to get the FH back on. As the freehub sides in, the seal is moved into position when you thread on the end cap. WAY easier than the thread trick. Once you've tightened up the end caps fully, check everything is in position.
I spun the freehub body anti-clockwise whilst putting it back into the shell and it went in no problem. Didn’t need to trap the pawls at all. I did have an issue where I didn’t have the seal properly in place in the shell which made it super draggy and caused the pedals to spin whilst I was wheeling the bike. Fixed by pushing the seal in all the way around.
I contacted Hunt and they advised to use grease, I don’t think oil would be suitable in a freehub unless you don’t mind cleaning and re-oiling every ride.
I have the hunt enduro wides. I put on my SRAM SX 12 speed cassette and i heard a grinding sound. Its between the cassette and hub. Do you know what would cause it ?
You need a spacer between cassette and freehub where the cassette hits the driver body ‘stops’. My chris king hubs had that with some cassettes. But I would go to the Hunt website’s chat help and discuss it with them. Good customer support
I think the thru axle "cover adapter" have 2 small holes in the flange face and you could put a small allen wrench (2mm?) and use that to tighten the adapter. Hunt shows this on this video, similar Novatec hub with easy QR-TA adapters; th-cam.com/video/RDBwUWBoNhI/w-d-xo.html IMHO, Hunts are often good value, looks good and works well in bad weather in GB and up here in Sweden. But, as with yours, all three of my sets have the assembled wheels come with poor attention to QA, various nuts or preload adjusters being too tight of loose, wheel not true but corrected spoke tension fixed it etc. One should be advised they need checks and buyer knowledge to make them last
I’ve had no issues with mine since, they are running perfect. I don’t remember seeing holes on the flange face, I’ll have a look when I take the wheel off next time. Thanks
It’s what Hunt wheels specifically advised me to use. I’ve never heard of machine oil being used in a hub and can imagine you would have to take it apart and re-clean too often.
Thanks. Really useful video. I was skeptical of doing this myself, but now I'll tackle the job myself
It’s really easy, just make sure you use the trick with the wire to push the pawls in when re-installing the freehub. Also apply a bit of thread lock to the axle end cap to prevent it coming loose as I found out when my axle became loose again.
Do hunt recommend grease for pawls ? Or could a light oil do? Then I’ll definitely get into all gaps?
Iv a creak on my hunt carbon gravel 35s I’m wondering if this could sort it? I must admit the free hub slips every other ride at least once
Great video, better thank the hunt one (saying that the lads are very helpful). I had awful issues getting that seal to sit into the groove, I still think it's a bit tight when I tighten the end cap it seems to squeeze the seal and stop the wheel from spinning freely
Hey dude did you ever find a fix to this? I just got a new free hub and anytime it's tighter than finger tight the seal seems to bind up. I believe it is seated in the free hub groove and hubshell properly.
I have the same issue too
You can trap the pawls down in place with the seal to get the FH back on. As the freehub sides in, the seal is moved into position when you thread on the end cap. WAY easier than the thread trick. Once you've tightened up the end caps fully, check everything is in position.
Good tip cheers 👍
I spun the freehub body anti-clockwise whilst putting it back into the shell and it went in no problem. Didn’t need to trap the pawls at all. I did have an issue where I didn’t have the seal properly in place in the shell which made it super draggy and caused the pedals to spin whilst I was wheeling the bike. Fixed by pushing the seal in all the way around.
That’s the issue I had with mine apart from the axle had actually worked itself loose, sorted with a tiny drop of loctite and had no issues since.
I thought the seal was gonna cause more drag 😅
Would you advise freehub oil instead of grease ?
I contacted Hunt and they advised to use grease, I don’t think oil would be suitable in a freehub unless you don’t mind cleaning and re-oiling every ride.
I thought this as all gcn videos say oil
I have the hunt enduro wides. I put on my SRAM SX 12 speed cassette and i heard a grinding sound. Its between the cassette and hub. Do you know what would cause it ?
Was the cassette and hub clean? Maybe grit has dropped into somewhere.
@@simplysingletrack4800 yep. I think its hitting tbe spokes
The cassette is hitting the spokes? You should get in touch with Hunt they are super helpful.
You need a spacer between cassette and freehub where the cassette hits the driver body ‘stops’. My chris king hubs had that with some cassettes. But I would go to the Hunt website’s chat help and discuss it with them. Good customer support
Did you find it difficult to pull the Freehub and axle off the wheel? Want to replace the Freehub on my Hunts and struggling to remove it.
It came off really easy! Which wheel set do you have?
@@simplysingletrack4800 I have the Trail Wide wheelset. I loosened everything and tried to pull the Freehub but it wouldn't budge.
@@alexanderchung404 I bought those today. How you like them?
I think the thru axle "cover adapter" have 2 small holes in the flange face and you could put a small allen wrench (2mm?) and use that to tighten the adapter. Hunt shows this on this video, similar Novatec hub with easy QR-TA adapters; th-cam.com/video/RDBwUWBoNhI/w-d-xo.html
IMHO, Hunts are often good value, looks good and works well in bad weather in GB and up here in Sweden. But, as with yours, all three of my sets have the assembled wheels come with poor attention to QA, various nuts or preload adjusters being too tight of loose, wheel not true but corrected spoke tension fixed it etc. One should be advised they need checks and buyer knowledge to make them last
I’ve had no issues with mine since, they are running perfect. I don’t remember seeing holes on the flange face, I’ll have a look when I take the wheel off next time. Thanks
Using lithium grease may not be the way to go. It can be very thick and easily gum up the pawls. Machine oil may be a better alternative.
It’s what Hunt wheels specifically advised me to use. I’ve never heard of machine oil being used in a hub and can imagine you would have to take it apart and re-clean too often.