Uh. Dude? I feel really dumb right now. Those white plastic cutting boards you can buy everywhere including dollar stores? There are your plates. Double them up with a heat gun. Hell, you can even slip a layer of glass in there as well. I am going to the stores tomorrow.
Check with some plastic companies, they may know how to make a more dense recipe for plastic,that surpasses the milk carton plastic and make plates for you , if your tests show promising,you could sell the heck out of them and after the initial start up cost,the parts for you,would be relatively cheap.
Have u tried or thought about the compression characteristics of something that's in mom's cabinet??? CORN STARCH....the harder it's hit ...the harder it gets
I see lots of potential. Try making several thinner layers and sandwich several of them with wire mesh between each layer; then heat it up and compress the whole thing so the mesh layers are embedded in the plastic. You could also add some steel wool between each mesh layer; I think this will considerably add to the stopping power because as a bullet pushes through the mesh, the mesh (and steel wool) will pull the plastic tighter around the bullet as well as help hold the plastic together.
Soda bottle plastic (pete) is stronger than the milk jug plastic but you can't melt it down so my idea is to let's say cut and straighten out 100 soda bottles (the middle parts not the tops or bottoms) and place those together, sanding both sides of the soda plastic on each one and resin them together then resin them to the hdpe to be like a strike face. I used to shoot my 10 pump bb gun at bottles back in the day and still remember how the plastics differ in strength, I've been thinking about making plates since 2016 and done tons of research on it, now if only I had the money to waste lol!!!! I've been looking up units of weight (giggapascals and psi) for materials that could make the perfect armor and found a lot of information I mean the brainstorming was off the charts lol!!!!! Look for the strongest adhesives and materials with tensile strengths over 8000 psi, materials with the hardness measured in gigapascals like diamonds but harder & yes there are things out there on the market just as strong/harder then diamond then think shear thickening fluid as a wrap around cover for the plate (polyethylene glycol and reptile calcium or silica ... Nano tech ) & wow!!! I'm in the zone lol!!! I've been looking into graphene and metal foams and carbon fiber nanotubes and a shit load of stuff that would help me out in my quest. I think you should look up the bear suit guy here on TH-cam, his name was troy hurtubise, a Canadian inventor who created not just a invincible bear suit but a ballistics armor even stronger than the bear suit, the man was a composite genius before he died back in 2018.
This concept would be a great way to provide armor plating to a structure or vehicle. This could be used in walls, doors, floors, of buildings and vehicles to create a light weight, armor plating.
Once while using jb weld on a plastic radiator manifold, i added just plain aluminium oxide powder to help it stick to itself. That might be a bad description, but the point is that it worked, extremely well. Maybe, if you pulverized your milk jug plastic beforebaking it, you could add a measured amount of aluminum oxide powder or even metal filings/chips from drilling and grinding wirk to help make a mire cohesive mixture, as well as layering it with fiberglas.
Hey James, thanks again for another interesting video! The performance difference between the HDPE and wrapped HDPE plates was indeed pretty interesting. I'm looking forward to the performance of the HDPE after annealing though. Do you have any video footage of how the plate performed that you tested for me? (2 porcellain tiles and 1/2" polycarbonate plate) I would be interested in seeing how much the ceramics shattered and how it stood up overall.
Yeah plastic annealing kinda blew my mind! That raises more questions for me, because plenty of company's don't anneal there plastic after they form it because of the extra run time it takes. Some do, and it shows great results when it's properly applied. The fact that most of the plastics I use in these builds could be annealed to bring up impact resistance Is worth trying! Yeah your plate was going to be on my new bullet resistant glass video because I use a lot of polycarbonate in that video, however now that I have a focus in improving ceramics for ballistic tests (another test video coming up soon!) I'll be apart of that video. It handled real good brother.
@@fadedjate7230 high density polyethylene. Common everyday plastic. Milk jugs, laundry detergent jugs ect tend to be made of it.think grocery bags too. U can Google the hdpe code and look for it on items and ull be surprised how many.
I quit wearing BA. There are so many obese folks out in public the advantage I gain in less weight is worth it. Keep eating those Krispy Kremes and I'll always have an abundance of cover. Thanks y'all!🤠🇺🇸⚔🇮🇱🍺
Great video. Can I offer this: lamination is the key. For example; perforated (1/16th) holes stainless steel 1/8th sheet. Then your milk jug material 1/2 inch followed by thin aluminium sheet, Then 3 layers of 1/8th thick fibreglass, Kevlar and carbon fibre backed thin sheet of titanium. Bulletproof!
@@Techthisoutmeow I have noticed... After each failure I cut the HDPE plate into pieces and re-heat it...each time the plate gets stronger. I found used HDPE...milk jugs, shampoo bottles,Ect..to be stronger than the NEW HDPE I purchased online. The NEW sucked until about the third use ?? Will be glad to send ya a pound to test yourself.
@@ucdan5 Yes, multiple reheats. I would melt it down, put in press for 24 hours, take it out and shoot it. With each Reheat I found the same product got "harder"...or tougher you mite say. I have noticed no change after reusing it 4 times. WITH THAT SAID...Did I unconsciously heat it longer...Hotter...cool it slower...press it tighter ?? ...I wasnt very Scientific in my process...as far as repeating exact steps. That;s one reason I posted what I found. I hoped others would chime in with their findings. Wish I had a warming/cooling box like his...I think cooling too fast hurts it.
@@bubbaonpc how long would you heat it and how would you cool it slower? Reduce the oven temp I assume? And how many gallons of milk would you use at a time?
Cool vid! Showing how you did it with the shooting, how awesome and complete. Gotta love that ingenuity and hey, you're recycling! Lol. I subbed, I've seen a couple of your other vids in the past and like them and this was so well done and so worth my interest in your whole channel. Such a great experiment and your dad is cool, what a beautiful variety of some real classics and a man of taste. I was drolling at that table of guns, OMG, lol.
Can you get it liquid enough to knead in loose fiberglass? I think you can buy loose fiber that's normally used as an additive for concrete. Or maybe just impregnate fiberglass cloth with the plastic instead of resin.
22:00 You could probably do that much more consistently with a candy hook, maybe a refinement worth investigating? Have you considered trying putting a little curve to the plates to assist with deflecting and also helping with a slight increase in effective thickness? On deflection, what about steel on the face side to help round 'skate' where the HDPE may cause them to bite in? With that mold at 24:40 if you used some all-thread rod I think you guys call it, you could make quite a powerful and cheap clamp using the jackscrew principal. ( 4x 1/2 inch UNF will give you TONS of pressure where that furniture clamp is doing maybe a couple hundred pounds at best.)
I’m gonna try this soon, but I want to try it in a different order, 7075 aluminum first, fiberglass and resin wrapped ceramic tile, the milk jug material wrapped in resin and fiberglass maybe with the threading rotated 90 degrees, if there’s enough room in the back maybe 6061 aluminum and then wrap the entire thing in resin and fiberglass again. I feel like there might be some potential but I’m also worried about it being too thick but who knows might be worth it.
Initially, I was SO onboard with the concept(s), BUT then when ALL the continuous rounds were being fired into SMALL LITTLE conceptual “models”, I can’t/don’t believe a TRUE reading can be made with so many rounds fired due to the ALREADY-weakened samples. Checking AFTER EACH round fired makes more sense to me..
Isn't it more easy to use a pottery kiln (or build one) and just put all the plastic in the form and let the kiln heat up to above the melting point but without setting it on fire. Also you can order boron carbide plates online and you can put those in a matrix of Kevlar and epoxy. That will make some sturdy stuff. Greetings, Jeff
You could try putting the fibreglass in the centre of the plastic 🤔 this is genius you deserve an award for thinking of it super lightweight and cheap you could make a vest molded to your body stab and bullet proof
Currently Russia is making a level 5 suit for they're soldiers their future armor is made of the same stuff actually they're using the little beads like for necklaces and hair. But yeah this is awesome and this guy is great good job man.
it would be cool to laminate the fiberglass with the plastic and create a plate about 1/2" thick with multiple layers of the laminate and see how that performs
I did a version of this, th-cam.com/video/uAUh3DspOgs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=6iivj670SCt0UgNF if you care to take a look. I even did full sized hdpe laminated nylon later on my channel.
I have a Mosin and that round is powerful to say the least. I also have a paratrooper. If you have resources beyond calculation and research develop R & D and test test test then you can truly create products, it requires a large budget. But for now I purchases certified plates, but it is interesting to see home made plates like yours. You didn't try aircraft grade titanium sheeting? Its super lightweight and stronger than the steel.
Im guessing crazy people think alike. Im also building my own Armor, your videos have been priceless. Your my research and development. Can i make a suggestion, combine all the things that work in layers. Maybe imbed mosaic tiles in this. The tiles would crack but stay in place. Great vids.
I'm guessing 3D printed PLA would performs less well than HDPE. But I'm still curious to know how custom printed PLA, with Aramid might perform. It would be nice to have completely custom fit full upper body Armour.
and Nylon while he is at it. I know it's not likely to locate recycle nylon, but for the Science of the test we MUST know! Nylon has a lot of "give" like UHMW, HDPE, & PTFE (teflon).
Hey man, how about putting a layer of ceramic in the middle of your jug mold to press the ceramic in the middle of your jug melt? Just a thought. I'm thinking a layer on the outside too or maybe an initial layer of steel. You're doing a great job and I appreciate your sharing of knowledge.
One thing people dont really consider is that your plates SHOULD have a bit of a minimum weight to them. As important as weight savings is, your plates help weigh your carrier down and help to keep it in place and not shift around when youre removing and reindexing magazines. By all means, keep developing lighter and light weight armors but they should be at least heavy enough for balance and carrier placement.
Try mixing in sand with the plastic and use multiple sheets of thinner metal spread oit before and after the plastic and a ceramic plate in the front inside of hardened epoxy
What about trying to achieve "skirting out" consistently if the angle is not 90° i.e. deflecting as many rounds safely vs trying to absorb all that energy?
Replace the ceramic tile with some real shit alumina or even carborundum tile, then try it with 54r, alumina tiles are quite cheap actually. This thing is an astonishing performer already, usually people would withdraw from gunfight after their plates getting shot once or twice (and that's what plates do, give you time and extra chance to retreat), and standards are made upon this principle, so you can say the homemade milkjug boi successfully surpassed NIJ III standards. That being said, if someone's getting shot with that much amount of .223 and 7.62x39 and 12ga, he should really, really bugger out.
I completely agree with the "bugger out" thing. Honestly if I stop 3-5 rounds of the 7.62x39 or the .223 then I'm happy, which I did. I just always test to failure of the plate for peoples amusement, I think people want to see it pushed to the highest limit. In an gun fight I don't want to be superman, I would rather find a better position if I'm getting shot. Thanks for the suggestion on some new materials to try! I've heard of alumina ceramics before because I do some chemistry experiments from time to time, but I haven't heard of the other one. I'll look into both!
@@Techthisoutmeow Carborundum is the toughest bamf in ballistic ceramics and relatively light, and...yeah, the only downside is the pricetag, my idea is using the best materials you can find on personal protection equipment, and downgrade the quality a bit for vehicle, then replenish the quality with the quantity, e.g. PE confined mosaic porcelain tile+epoxyed fiberglass+aluminium backpanel for cars, and alumina+laminated UHMWPE for people.
Hey I dont have the time to try this but childrens play foam the little foamballs that stick to each other. If you can put it in a mold compress it and put some sort of outer layer to keep it compressed I swear it would stop rounds.
You mean my Guy Fawkes mask? That was my first attempt at a bullet resistant mask, you can find the build and test footage from years ago on my channel. It took quite a beating. I want to do a Japanese Oni mask one of these days, or a punisher style skull mask. Haven't finalized what I want to do yet, open to suggestions!
I love the recycled hdpe for body armor, this is revolutionary for me because I can't afford fiberglass fabric or resin, but I do have fiberglass tape, I have a question what if you embedded a layer of fiberglass drywall tape in between every couple of MMS if hdpe to strengthen the hdpe to at least stop most hand gun rounds, I'm looking for a "broke man's" body armor hopefully to even stop some rifle rounds, also I don't have access to resin, I'm wondering if tightbond 3 waterproof wood glue could be used in place of the resin for the fiberglass tape shell on the outside, I've seen the fiberglass tape and tight bond glue work as a backing on wooden long bow to improve the bows tensile strength which I have made in the past, could you try this and put it to the test? Also I just have a heat gun and that seems to work fine, that also allows me to weld one thin layer to another while the hdpe is in the mold and I'm currently trying putting the fiberglass tape in between layers, my question is if the heat gun with damage the hdpe plastic although it seems to be quite indestructible the way it feels but I don't currently have a firearm to test it. I'm planning on making a fuctional full body bulletproof batman suit. So I'm trying to learn as much as possible about ballistics and not putting out any money.
@@DavidSmith-vz9uu I used a HMWPE cutting board as my base and ceramic tiles glued to the board with liquid nails it stopped subsonic 300blk at pointblank range which is about the same as a .45 cal I'm not saying try this or trust your life to my word, it's a direction that you can explore and not break the bank
@@DrMookie that's pretty impressive, the ceramic definitely plays the big role in breaking up the bullet and the uhmwpe or hdpe catches the shrapnel like a glove and doesn't take the full force in as quite as a small area with the bullet being broken up by the ceramic, but having ceramic, hdpe, fiberglass, steel plates, all together work best just like in this video for diy bullet resistant armor, I've pretty much watched all the TH-cam videos on DIY for ballistics, that round you used is for Ak47 I believe, impressive, the cutting boards I didn't know would be made of uhmwpe, I only heard of them saying hdpe on the cutting boards, it is chemically the same polyethylene plastic but uhmwpe is usually woven into fabric and pressed together using just enough heat to fuse the fabric layers together without melting them into a block because resin doesn't adhere to any polyethylene like it does with kevlar or fiberglass or other composites and works the same way kevlar stops bullets except that it's about 40% stronger than kevlar!
During the folding and forming phase if you placed the steel plate in the middle and melded the plastic around it and then pressed it into your mold using a shop press and 2 tons of pressure, would that increase the performance???
Hi I'm from the UK firearms are not so much of an issue, but I'm wondering how stab proof is it as knife crime is a major issue here, really enjoyed your video
I think the HDPE is too thick to be practical for body armor, but might be useful as a composite component layered with other materials that can absorb and disperse the bullet's energy over a larger area. Used tire rubber would be good for spreading out energy, but you'd probably want something like a layer of hard and resilient metal ahead of it to deform the bullet as wide as possible first, and several layers of resin-bonded Dyneema, Kevlar, or other high tensile strength synthetics with the weaves going in different directions somewhere in the mix. Changing forward motion to lateral motion is the trick. Anything that can repurpose what we normally regard as trash would be wonderful. Have you tried anything with PETE plastic, which is cross laminated to hold the pressure of carbonated drinks? I don't think HDPE can even do that.
how about sheets of HDPE (cutting board) wrapped with your fibreglass in between the layers of other materials you use ie. fabric, hdpe, ceramic, hdpe, fabric, steel, fabric, hdpe, fabric, etc.
Maybe do a collab with Taufledermaus to answer some of your ballistic questions with slow motion camera work? EDIT: Just read some of the comments. You and Tau are aware of one another already.😅 Thanks.
Tech this out meow, I notice something that if it goes through the plastic without breaking it. I was wonder if you could test a 4x layers steel weave with soft clay in between it to with 2x or 4x layers steel weave behind the clay keeping it in place with the plastic keeping it inside. Like a sandwich or cake.
try shooting through a waterlogged 6 inch diameter cypress tree root with armor piercing ammo and see what doesn't happen. I had one stop 3 consecutive 7.62x54 187 gr. yellow tip with no penetration out the backside. Tree root protruding from creek.
melt it all the way and put the kevlar inside the plate with a thin aluminum front sheet. compressing it isnt whats effective, its the breaking up of bullet on hard surface before it passes through
You would get a better result I would imagine, the metal used was basic hot roll welding steel. It's very mild compared to a high carbon steel or an alloy steel. I wanted to try different metals, just haven't gotten around to it yet. I just finished a backyard pit forge, so we shall see! Make sure to subscribe
i made a plate using pine pitch glue and ceramic beads used for cooking i also made a plate with pitch glue and fiber tape its worth making before i make something patent worthy
One of the plates did have a ceramic outside, the problem with non-Newtonian fluid is finding one stable enough at a wide range of temperatures, but I have been looking into some.
I know I'm really late to hit comments and I see you have newer videos I'm going to check out but I can't help but wonder how much you could improve the performance by mixing long strands of Kevlar into the plastic during each of the remelting phases. Something similar to tiger hair fiberglass used in automotive repair. I think this would help hold the plastic in shape during impact if there's enough of it inside the plastic kind of like rebar in concrete. I think I would still wrap it in fiberglass or Kevlar afterwards aswell.
The material is acting as mass, shock absorbing and resisting when not wrapped. A bullet moving 1000fps, to move an equal mass out of it's way will have it's velocity halved in doing so. I think leaving the ends open allows the material to flow slightly and is less effective than if you had a fold over on the open ends. The plastic hit very hard probably acts as a fluid. Like squeezing ice between your teeth can make it flow, rather than shatter, because under pressure ice becomes plastic, but under extreme pressure it would become liquid. If the plastic were completely enclosed with no place to go? The only place the plastic could go was out the holes the bullets made in the container, at the same instant the bullet itself is trying to enter the hole. When applying the fiberglass outer shell, putting it in a bag and applying a vacuum might make a tighter, stronger bond. T6061 aluminum backing, which is tough and light would probably make a good goal keeper. I don't know if annealing the plastic will help but making it so the plastic Can't move out of the way of the projectile should make the plate much more effective. I hope this at least spurred some new ideas.
I've never tried bioplastics, I want to. but finding them in raw form is a bit tricky, I kinda just want to make some from scratch. But if I come across some I'll be sure to try them out!
For those interested in seeing recycled HDPE used as a laminate check out my newest version of these plates! th-cam.com/video/uAUh3DspOgs/w-d-xo.html
Uh. Dude? I feel really dumb right now. Those white plastic cutting boards you can buy everywhere including dollar stores? There are your plates. Double them up with a heat gun. Hell, you can even slip a layer of glass in there as well. I am going to the stores tomorrow.
Check with some plastic companies, they may know how to make a more dense recipe for plastic,that surpasses the milk carton plastic and make plates for you , if your tests show promising,you could sell the heck out of them and after the initial start up cost,the parts for you,would be relatively cheap.
@@bashkillszombies They could use nitrogen to inject the plastic.
Have u tried or thought about the compression characteristics of something that's in mom's cabinet??? CORN STARCH....the harder it's hit ...the harder it gets
What a fascinating experiment. I think you should keep going until you stop an AK47.
I swear to God, if you figure out how to make a level IV plate, you should be awarded a freedom medal
Add ceramic tiles in front.
I'm working on it, check back soon!
Lol.
You need to get a hydraulic press
Granite is actually harder however it is more expensive and heavier than ceramic..
Great work! Taofladermaus put your work on display. More than impressive.
The friction energy reduction is incredible
I see lots of potential. Try making several thinner layers and sandwich several of them with wire mesh between each layer; then heat it up and compress the whole thing so the mesh layers are embedded in the plastic. You could also add some steel wool between each mesh layer; I think this will considerably add to the stopping power because as a bullet pushes through the mesh, the mesh (and steel wool) will pull the plastic tighter around the bullet as well as help hold the plastic together.
Looks like I need some fiberglass and resin. BTW Taofledermaus sent me.
Your dad looks exactly like my friends dad from high school who taught us all how to shoot!!! He was a good man, I pray your dad is the same way
Soda bottle plastic (pete) is stronger than the milk jug plastic but you can't melt it down so my idea is to let's say cut and straighten out 100 soda bottles (the middle parts not the tops or bottoms) and place those together, sanding both sides of the soda plastic on each one and resin them together then resin them to the hdpe to be like a strike face. I used to shoot my 10 pump bb gun at bottles back in the day and still remember how the plastics differ in strength, I've been thinking about making plates since 2016 and done tons of research on it, now if only I had the money to waste lol!!!! I've been looking up units of weight (giggapascals and psi) for materials that could make the perfect armor and found a lot of information I mean the brainstorming was off the charts lol!!!!! Look for the strongest adhesives and materials with tensile strengths over 8000 psi, materials with the hardness measured in gigapascals like diamonds but harder & yes there are things out there on the market just as strong/harder then diamond then think shear thickening fluid as a wrap around cover for the plate (polyethylene glycol and reptile calcium or silica ... Nano tech ) & wow!!! I'm in the zone lol!!! I've been looking into graphene and metal foams and carbon fiber nanotubes and a shit load of stuff that would help me out in my quest. I think you should look up the bear suit guy here on TH-cam, his name was troy hurtubise, a Canadian inventor who created not just a invincible bear suit but a ballistics armor even stronger than the bear suit, the man was a composite genius before he died back in 2018.
7.62x36 SKS......what sorcery is this?
This is a great channel ALOT of ppl can't afford body armor....this is awsome for defense
This concept would be a great way to provide armor plating to a structure or vehicle. This could be used in walls, doors, floors, of buildings and vehicles to create a light weight, armor plating.
Awesome video, you should send a sample to Demolition Ranch, Matt would love this
funny enough, I might be sending him something soon!
Awesome! I hope we get to see it on his channel. Keep up the good work brother, I can't wait to watch more of your videos
Once while using jb weld on a plastic radiator manifold, i added just plain aluminium oxide powder to help it stick to itself. That might be a bad description, but the point is that it worked, extremely well. Maybe, if you pulverized your milk jug plastic beforebaking it, you could add a measured amount of aluminum oxide powder or even metal filings/chips from drilling and grinding wirk to help make a mire cohesive mixture, as well as layering it with fiberglas.
Hey James, thanks again for another interesting video!
The performance difference between the HDPE and wrapped HDPE plates was indeed pretty interesting.
I'm looking forward to the performance of the HDPE after annealing though.
Do you have any video footage of how the plate performed that you tested for me? (2 porcellain tiles and 1/2" polycarbonate plate)
I would be interested in seeing how much the ceramics shattered and how it stood up overall.
Yeah plastic annealing kinda blew my mind! That raises more questions for me, because plenty of company's don't anneal there plastic after they form it because of the extra run time it takes. Some do, and it shows great results when it's properly applied. The fact that most of the plastics I use in these builds could be annealed to bring up impact resistance Is worth trying! Yeah your plate was going to be on my new bullet resistant glass video because I use a lot of polycarbonate in that video, however now that I have a focus in improving ceramics for ballistic tests (another test video coming up soon!) I'll be apart of that video. It handled real good brother.
What is HDPE?
@@fadedjate7230 high density polyethylene. Common everyday plastic. Milk jugs, laundry detergent jugs ect tend to be made of it.think grocery bags too. U can Google the hdpe code and look for it on items and ull be surprised how many.
@@fadedjate7230 HighDensityPolyEthylene a.k.a milk jugs
You are on your way man, this is great, I used to slump glass, annealing plastic? Amazing.
I quit wearing BA. There are so many obese folks out in public the advantage I gain in less weight is worth it. Keep eating those Krispy Kremes and I'll always have an abundance of cover. Thanks y'all!🤠🇺🇸⚔🇮🇱🍺
human shield tek, brilliant! lol
Great video. Can I offer this: lamination is the key. For example; perforated (1/16th) holes stainless steel 1/8th sheet. Then your milk jug material 1/2 inch followed by thin aluminium sheet, Then 3 layers of 1/8th thick fibreglass, Kevlar and carbon fibre backed thin sheet of titanium. Bulletproof!
man thi is some mad max fallout type stuff. i love it.
Ah-Haa ! Wrap in Fiber....Back to the shop.... 5 Stars Thumbs Up !!
Sweet! let me know how it does!
@@Techthisoutmeow I have noticed... After each failure I cut the HDPE plate into pieces and re-heat it...each time the plate gets stronger. I found used HDPE...milk jugs, shampoo bottles,Ect..to be stronger than the NEW HDPE I purchased online. The NEW sucked until about the third use ?? Will be glad to send ya a pound to test yourself.
@@bubbaonpc so you kept heating and cooling it over and over to make it stronger?
@@ucdan5 Yes, multiple reheats. I would melt it down, put in press for 24 hours, take it out and shoot it. With each Reheat I found the same product got "harder"...or tougher you mite say. I have noticed no change after reusing it 4 times. WITH THAT SAID...Did I unconsciously heat it longer...Hotter...cool it slower...press it tighter ?? ...I wasnt very Scientific in my process...as far as repeating exact steps. That;s one reason I posted what I found. I hoped others would chime in with their findings. Wish I had a warming/cooling box like his...I think cooling too fast hurts it.
@@bubbaonpc how long would you heat it and how would you cool it slower? Reduce the oven temp I assume?
And how many gallons of milk would you use at a time?
Who would have thought!! old milk jugs...great idea...good work...good for you...
My hands are itching so bad watching him handle that splintered fiberglass
I just found your video after having the same thoughts about HDPE absorbing bullet energy after having to cut and sand some. Amazing work!
Have you considered using a mix of the plastic and chopped glass fibers, instead of a wrap? Having it as a monolithic mold block might be useful.
Thank you
No problem brother! More to come soon
Cool vid! Showing how you did it with the shooting, how awesome and complete. Gotta love that ingenuity and hey, you're recycling! Lol. I subbed, I've seen a couple of your other vids in the past and like them and this was so well done and so worth my interest in your whole channel. Such a great experiment and your dad is cool, what a beautiful variety of some real classics and a man of taste. I was drolling at that table of guns, OMG, lol.
Can you get it liquid enough to knead in loose fiberglass? I think you can buy loose fiber that's normally used as an additive for concrete. Or maybe just impregnate fiberglass cloth with the plastic instead of resin.
22:00 You could probably do that much more consistently with a candy hook, maybe a refinement worth investigating?
Have you considered trying putting a little curve to the plates to assist with deflecting and also helping with a slight increase in effective thickness?
On deflection, what about steel on the face side to help round 'skate' where the HDPE may cause them to bite in?
With that mold at 24:40 if you used some all-thread rod I think you guys call it, you could make quite a powerful and cheap clamp using the jackscrew principal. ( 4x 1/2 inch UNF will give you TONS of pressure where that furniture clamp is doing maybe a couple hundred pounds at best.)
Hell yah man thanks this was awesome
Glad you liked it, we're gonna have sweet chest inserts soon!
I’m gonna try this soon, but I want to try it in a different order, 7075 aluminum first, fiberglass and resin wrapped ceramic tile, the milk jug material wrapped in resin and fiberglass maybe with the threading rotated 90 degrees, if there’s enough room in the back maybe 6061 aluminum and then wrap the entire thing in resin and fiberglass again. I feel like there might be some potential but I’m also worried about it being too thick but who knows might be worth it.
I think HDPE would make a GREAT anti spall coating.
Just don't buy steel plates. Steel is good for targets, not armor.
Initially, I was SO onboard with the concept(s), BUT then when ALL the continuous rounds were being fired into SMALL LITTLE conceptual “models”, I can’t/don’t believe a TRUE reading can be made with so many rounds fired due to the ALREADY-weakened samples. Checking AFTER EACH round fired makes more sense to me..
Damn you got a big head and a even bigger brain! Keep up the good work love the ingenuity
Thanks man, there will be new content soon enough.
Curious about the efficacy of embedding fiberglass layers into the structure of the plate itself
Isn't it more easy to use a pottery kiln (or build one) and just put all the plastic in the form and let the kiln heat up to above the melting point but without setting it on fire.
Also you can order boron carbide plates online and you can put those in a matrix of Kevlar and epoxy. That will make some sturdy stuff.
Greetings,
Jeff
You could try putting the fibreglass in the centre of the plastic 🤔 this is genius you deserve an award for thinking of it super lightweight and cheap you could make a vest molded to your body stab and bullet proof
PET 1 is pretty tough too. It would be cool to have plastic safe room armor.
UHMW and HDPE are both slippery too, so they will lubricate the bullet as is tries to pass through. Keeping it from "moving" is a good idea though.
Currently Russia is making a level 5 suit for they're soldiers their future armor is made of the same stuff actually they're using the little beads like for necklaces and hair. But yeah this is awesome and this guy is great good job man.
Armor is such a limited field when you've got a material like that. There's a lot of things you could make out of that.
it would be cool to laminate the fiberglass with the plastic and create a plate about 1/2" thick with multiple layers of the laminate and see how that performs
I did a version of this, th-cam.com/video/uAUh3DspOgs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=6iivj670SCt0UgNF if you care to take a look. I even did full sized hdpe laminated nylon later on my channel.
I have a Mosin and that round is powerful to say the least. I also have a paratrooper. If you have resources beyond calculation and research develop R & D and test test test then you can truly create products, it requires a large budget. But for now I purchases certified plates, but it is interesting to see home made plates like yours. You didn't try aircraft grade titanium sheeting? Its super lightweight and stronger than the steel.
This dude is a genius if he can perfect this. God bless him!!!
Im guessing crazy people think alike. Im also building my own Armor, your videos have been priceless. Your my research and development. Can i make a suggestion, combine all the things that work in layers. Maybe imbed mosaic tiles in this. The tiles would crack but stay in place. Great vids.
Need to shrink wrap it or find some really good way to compress... some sort of heat shrink... maybe coat it with flex seal
This is the fun type of recycling
*Cries in Canadian milk bags*
Hahah, thats a good one. There are other items made out of HDPE though, just gotta look for them!.
I'm guessing 3D printed PLA would performs less well than HDPE. But I'm still curious to know how custom printed PLA, with Aramid might perform.
It would be nice to have completely custom fit full upper body Armour.
You should try some UHMW.
VERY intrested in more testing.
and Nylon while he is at it. I know it's not likely to locate recycle nylon, but for the Science of the test we MUST know! Nylon has a lot of "give" like UHMW, HDPE, & PTFE (teflon).
who would have guessed...the humble milk jug :-))
I would like to see alternate layers of HDPE and fibre glass, perhaps five of each and maybe 2mm of high carbon steel plate on the back.
Make a mini tank out of recycled milk jugs
I would love to make an armored vehicle one day!
Hey man, how about putting a layer of ceramic in the middle of your jug mold to press the ceramic in the middle of your jug melt? Just a thought. I'm thinking a layer on the outside too or maybe an initial layer of steel. You're doing a great job and I appreciate your sharing of knowledge.
One thing people dont really consider is that your plates SHOULD have a bit of a minimum weight to them. As important as weight savings is, your plates help weigh your carrier down and help to keep it in place and not shift around when youre removing and reindexing magazines. By all means, keep developing lighter and light weight armors but they should be at least heavy enough for balance and carrier placement.
Try mixing in sand with the plastic and use multiple sheets of thinner metal spread oit before and after the plastic and a ceramic plate in the front inside of hardened epoxy
Scientific Method?
What?, I got this!
Well done ✔
Thin plastic front for fragments,1/8 plate, 3/4 plastic annealed, 1/8 plate rear, thin plaits annealed rear. Or annealed plastic jacket
I guess wearing milk jugs should be very fashionable when SHTF 😂
What about trying to achieve "skirting out" consistently if the angle is not 90° i.e. deflecting as many rounds safely vs trying to absorb all that energy?
i enjoy your content, have u ever tried strips of tires? i know they are heavy but old tires are free. keep up the good work.
Add ceramic powder to the melted plastic for a composite that will have a higher bind strength than the previous epoxy based composites
HDPE is like water without surface tension. The fiber helps create that quality. The plastig behaves a lot like steel in the way it moves.
Replace the ceramic tile with some real shit alumina or even carborundum tile, then try it with 54r, alumina tiles are quite cheap actually.
This thing is an astonishing performer already, usually people would withdraw from gunfight after their plates getting shot once or twice (and that's what plates do, give you time and extra chance to retreat), and standards are made upon this principle, so you can say the homemade milkjug boi successfully surpassed NIJ III standards.
That being said, if someone's getting shot with that much amount of .223 and 7.62x39 and 12ga, he should really, really bugger out.
I completely agree with the "bugger out" thing. Honestly if I stop 3-5 rounds of the 7.62x39 or the .223 then I'm happy, which I did. I just always test to failure of the plate for peoples amusement, I think people want to see it pushed to the highest limit. In an gun fight I don't want to be superman, I would rather find a better position if I'm getting shot. Thanks for the suggestion on some new materials to try! I've heard of alumina ceramics before because I do some chemistry experiments from time to time, but I haven't heard of the other one. I'll look into both!
@@Techthisoutmeow Carborundum is the toughest bamf in ballistic ceramics and relatively light, and...yeah, the only downside is the pricetag, my idea is using the best materials you can find on personal protection equipment, and downgrade the quality a bit for vehicle, then replenish the quality with the quantity, e.g. PE confined mosaic porcelain tile+epoxyed fiberglass+aluminium backpanel for cars, and alumina+laminated UHMWPE for people.
I would like a price tag on your revolutionary product.
Hey I dont have the time to try this but childrens play foam the little foamballs that stick to each other. If you can put it in a mold compress it and put some sort of outer layer to keep it compressed I swear it would stop rounds.
The Anonymous mask in the back though.
You mean my Guy Fawkes mask? That was my first attempt at a bullet resistant mask, you can find the build and test footage from years ago on my channel. It took quite a beating. I want to do a Japanese Oni mask one of these days, or a punisher style skull mask. Haven't finalized what I want to do yet, open to suggestions!
@@Techthisoutmeow whatever you do i support it! Keep being creative and bring new ideas to the youtube community.
For that video about the Vectran, what if you mixed that in with some kevlar as another variable, that armor held up pretty well imho
That composite fabric really surprised me! Sadly it's harder to find now in days, so if I can find more I will for sure do some tests like that!
I'm curious will those things float cuz if they float that's amazing bro I mean that's just so much better than armor that sinks
The 3 inch plastic PVC pipes are very good for shooting
I think that if you were to put the composite in between the layer of plastic that would help even more
The name of the game is effectively dissipating energy vs. the sharpness, hardness and weight of the round.
I wonder how it would fair if you had a layered stack of impregnated fiber glass sheets inside a wrapped plate of milk jug armor.
I love the recycled hdpe for body armor, this is revolutionary for me because I can't afford fiberglass fabric or resin, but I do have fiberglass tape, I have a question what if you embedded a layer of fiberglass drywall tape in between every couple of MMS if hdpe to strengthen the hdpe to at least stop most hand gun rounds, I'm looking for a "broke man's" body armor hopefully to even stop some rifle rounds, also I don't have access to resin, I'm wondering if tightbond 3 waterproof wood glue could be used in place of the resin for the fiberglass tape shell on the outside, I've seen the fiberglass tape and tight bond glue work as a backing on wooden long bow to improve the bows tensile strength which I have made in the past, could you try this and put it to the test? Also I just have a heat gun and that seems to work fine, that also allows me to weld one thin layer to another while the hdpe is in the mold and I'm currently trying putting the fiberglass tape in between layers, my question is if the heat gun with damage the hdpe plastic although it seems to be quite indestructible the way it feels but I don't currently have a firearm to test it. I'm planning on making a fuctional full body bulletproof batman suit. So I'm trying to learn as much as possible about ballistics and not putting out any money.
liquid nails
@@DrMookie yeah liquid nails could be a cheap resin substitute.
@@DavidSmith-vz9uu I used a HMWPE cutting board as my base and ceramic tiles glued to the board with liquid nails it stopped subsonic 300blk at pointblank range which is about the same as a .45 cal I'm not saying try this or trust your life to my word, it's a direction that you can explore and not break the bank
@@DrMookie that's pretty impressive, the ceramic definitely plays the big role in breaking up the bullet and the uhmwpe or hdpe catches the shrapnel like a glove and doesn't take the full force in as quite as a small area with the bullet being broken up by the ceramic, but having ceramic, hdpe, fiberglass, steel plates, all together work best just like in this video for diy bullet resistant armor, I've pretty much watched all the TH-cam videos on DIY for ballistics, that round you used is for Ak47 I believe, impressive, the cutting boards I didn't know would be made of uhmwpe, I only heard of them saying hdpe on the cutting boards, it is chemically the same polyethylene plastic but uhmwpe is usually woven into fabric and pressed together using just enough heat to fuse the fabric layers together without melting them into a block because resin doesn't adhere to any polyethylene like it does with kevlar or fiberglass or other composites and works the same way kevlar stops bullets except that it's about 40% stronger than kevlar!
During the folding and forming phase if you placed the steel plate in the middle and melded the plastic around it and then pressed it into your mold using a shop press and 2 tons of pressure, would that increase the performance???
Hi I'm from the UK firearms are not so much of an issue, but I'm wondering how stab proof is it as knife crime is a major issue here, really enjoyed your video
I wonder what a fiberglass, resin, and hdpe plate with 1/4" 7075 or 6061 aluminum back plate would stand up to. it'd be lighter than steel
Impressive sir!
Thanks! Working on some new stuff now, should be done soon. So check back
@@Techthisoutmeow oh I will thanks!
can you try this for front kevlar, this plastic then metal at the back. with this just eating up the metal and preventing rikochet...
We made plate armor out of aluminum beer cans by melting them ina cast ironnpan that could stop 9mm and 5.56. Pretty nuts.
That is nuts, how thick was it? any idea how heavy it was?
We are going to start seeing these blocks of plastic for sale on eBay soon... I hope. That way I don't have to collect so many jugs myself
Try embedding shredded fibers into the hdpe. ...and, or, melting the hdpe into an aluminum honeycomb substrate...
Question: can I use milk crates? How about handheld shopping baskets?
I think the HDPE is too thick to be practical for body armor, but might be useful as a composite component layered with other materials that can absorb and disperse the bullet's energy over a larger area. Used tire rubber would be good for spreading out energy, but you'd probably want something like a layer of hard and resilient metal ahead of it to deform the bullet as wide as possible first, and several layers of resin-bonded Dyneema, Kevlar, or other high tensile strength synthetics with the weaves going in different directions somewhere in the mix. Changing forward motion to lateral motion is the trick. Anything that can repurpose what we normally regard as trash would be wonderful. Have you tried anything with PETE plastic, which is cross laminated to hold the pressure of carbonated drinks? I don't think HDPE can even do that.
Embed the ceramics and metals within the HDPE. then wrap the HDPE I. Cross layers, so that it is entirely encapsulated In fiber glass.
Grind up your ceramic in the dust and mix it with it as your heating it up in the oven just a thought
how about sheets of HDPE (cutting board) wrapped with your fibreglass in between the layers of other materials you use ie. fabric, hdpe, ceramic, hdpe, fabric, steel, fabric, hdpe, fabric, etc.
Make some swiss cheese out of that milk....jugs. 😉
Maybe do a collab with Taufledermaus to answer some of your ballistic questions with slow motion camera work?
EDIT: Just read some of the comments. You and Tau are aware of one another already.😅 Thanks.
Tech this out meow,
I notice something that if it goes through the plastic without breaking it. I was wonder if you could test a 4x layers steel weave with soft clay in between it to with 2x or 4x layers steel weave behind the clay keeping it in place with the plastic keeping it inside. Like a sandwich or cake.
try shooting through a waterlogged 6 inch diameter cypress tree root with armor piercing ammo and see what doesn't happen. I had one stop 3 consecutive 7.62x54 187 gr. yellow tip with no penetration out the backside. Tree root protruding from creek.
melt it all the way and put the kevlar inside the plate with a thin aluminum front sheet. compressing it isnt whats effective, its the breaking up of bullet on hard surface before it passes through
What if you harden and temper the steel plates?
You would get a better result I would imagine, the metal used was basic hot roll welding steel. It's very mild compared to a high carbon steel or an alloy steel. I wanted to try different metals, just haven't gotten around to it yet. I just finished a backyard pit forge, so we shall see! Make sure to subscribe
@@Techthisoutmeow haha I’m in the process of making a small forge myself. And I did once I finished the video 👍🏻
we need to talk to that guy that makes the spider silk yeast and see if he can't make mycelium produce spider silk. (ThoughtEmporium)
i made a plate using pine pitch glue and ceramic beads used for cooking i also made a plate with pitch glue and fiber tape its worth making before i make something patent worthy
You should watch ZNA’s fiberglass plates. The plastic may not be necessary.
Include non-newtonian material behind a metal or ceramic insert?
One of the plates did have a ceramic outside, the problem with non-Newtonian fluid is finding one stable enough at a wide range of temperatures, but I have been looking into some.
I know I'm really late to hit comments and I see you have newer videos I'm going to check out but I can't help but wonder how much you could improve the performance by mixing long strands of Kevlar into the plastic during each of the remelting phases. Something similar to tiger hair fiberglass used in automotive repair. I think this would help hold the plastic in shape during impact if there's enough of it inside the plastic kind of like rebar in concrete. I think I would still wrap it in fiberglass or Kevlar afterwards aswell.
How about an HDPE/Fiberglass composite? Hydraulic press for compression and removal of bubbles
Do the blue barrels melt and mold the same?
The material is acting as mass, shock absorbing and resisting when not wrapped. A bullet moving 1000fps, to move an equal mass out of it's way will have it's velocity halved in doing so.
I think leaving the ends open allows the material to flow slightly and is less effective than if you had a fold over on the open ends. The plastic hit very hard probably acts as a fluid. Like squeezing ice between your teeth can make it flow, rather than shatter, because under pressure ice becomes plastic, but under extreme pressure it would become liquid.
If the plastic were completely enclosed with no place to go? The only place the plastic could go was out the holes the bullets made in the container, at the same instant the bullet itself is trying to enter the hole.
When applying the fiberglass outer shell, putting it in a bag and applying a vacuum might make a tighter, stronger bond. T6061 aluminum backing, which is tough and light would probably make a good goal keeper.
I don't know if annealing the plastic will help but making it so the plastic Can't move out of the way of the projectile should make the plate much more effective. I hope this at least spurred some new ideas.
Does this work with bioplastics?
I've never tried bioplastics, I want to. but finding them in raw form is a bit tricky, I kinda just want to make some from scratch. But if I come across some I'll be sure to try them out!