AEB-L Stainless Knife Part 2 : Heat Treat And Grind
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- Part two on an in depth look at what it takes to make a good knife from a piece of AEB-L stainless steel stock.
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Wow that turned out great. Very cool bro
Thanks man!
Very helpful vid, thanx FCF.
you bet, thanks for watching!
Really nice job on the bevels
Good info. I am local to Jantz supply and bought some more steel this week. Almost bought some ARB-L but wasn't sure how to HT it so I didn't. My heat treat oven is still in pieces that I need to put together.
Loved the video ,AEB-L is a steel I've wanted to try but never been to sure weather to or not as it has always sounded a little scare lol.I think you ment swedish steel.😊👍
You mean Swedish steel. In the straight razor community Swedish high carbon is regarded as very hard, while still being fine grained enough to take a very good shave ready edge.
Why dry ice? Why not Nitrogen? it's a lot colder. Isn''t dry ice sort of marginally effective?
Yeah that sounds right. AEB-L doesn't have enough carbon in it to necessitate a liquid nitrogen treatment. The negative 100° achieved with a dry ice slurry is sufficient for martinsitic transformation. Of course, this is not the case with most other stainless blade steels.
Nice video,
I have a question please?
When should we cover the types of tool wrap, wrapping the knife blanks in tool wrap to prevent scale for HT?
I think we should cover the types of tool wrap for all the stainless steels ?
steels that requires an abnormally high heat at extended time periods need some kind of atmospheric protection like the foil wrap, because of decarburization. Carbon steels don't require this kind of heart treating, so a foil wrap is not necessary, but some people use it to to avoid scale, as you mention.
@@FireCreekForge Thanks!
cold rolled aebl, put 40lp dumbelll on your plate and use air when you quench and you wont get those warps
Hi! Do you do any type of annealing? Or just profile your blade and go straight to HT?
The steel is annealed from the supplier
AEB-L IS ONE OF THE EASIEST STAINLESS STEELS TO HEAT TREAT AND ONLY NEEDS DRY ICE FOR CRYO.
Yep that's correct
@@FireCreekForge I've been making knives since 1992, but my two favorite steels are D2 and O1. Back in 1992 if you couldn't afford ATS-34 it was 440-C or D2 for stainless. AEB-L wasn't easily available that I remember. D2 with a 1000 degree temper gives you RC 60-61 hardness with good toughness without a cryo. 440-C without a cryo can only be treated to RC 57-58, but with liquid nitrogen you can squeeze 59 out of it. Once I acquired my own HT oven I strictly did D2 and O1 to 60 hardness with toughness. When AEB-L came along I treated it and I didn't use kerosene, I just laid my blades between two blocks of dry ice. It only needs to be taken down to -105 for 10 minutes and dry ice is -115.
I bought a 4x8 foot sheet of foil covered styrofoam at Lowes and built an ice chest with 4 inch thick walls just slightly bigger than the 10 lb blocks of dry ice that were available. I would HT my blades and put them in the freezer until I had my whole batch ready that included O1, D2 and AEB-L. I would take all the blades out of the freezer and lay them down between the blocks of dry ice and leave them there for a week. Still had 70% of the dry ice left after a week, but I would then start tempering cycles for the different steels. O1 and AEB-L went into the house oven at 425 for 2 hours 2x and the D2 would go into the heat treat oven for 2 hour 2x at 1000 degrees. Everything was right at RC 60-61 hard, the AEB-L was 62. They had a Rockwell tester at my job and I'd go out into the shop and use it. I did bend tests and found that the D2 and O1 didn't get significantly harder, but they got tougher and it was very hard to break them. Of course AEB-L has to have a cryo to get the best out of it, but leaving it in the dry ice for a week definitely made it harder.
Thought you might like to know.
@@MountainFisher thanks for the info!
@@MountainFisher So you would suggest D2 ?
@@dimmacommunication If you can HT properly. To temper at 1000 you have to let the oven cool down to room temperature after the initial Heat Treat at 1860 for 35 minutes. Clean the blades with alcohol or soap of choice.
Wrap tightly in stainless foil and place on rack edge up.
Don't just crank it up to 1860 first, take to 1200, 1450, 1650 and equalize at each temp for 10-10-10 minutes (or however long your oven takes +) then to 1860. I cooled with a high pressure air blast, but later learned to oil quench down to 1000 degrees and the air fan, but it takes practice and a slow oil. CAN BE DANGEROUS! Air blast or use plates with an air blast in between plates before trying oil quench. I had someone show me how to do an oil quench before I ever tried it and never did it alone.
To temper let the oven cool down while you clean up the blades and take off the foil. Oven must be less than 150 degrees before placing blades in oven edges up. Crank up to 1000 degrees for two hours then turn off oven and open door about halfway and let it drop to room temperature. I usually did this in the evening and in the morning I'd close door and repeat first step.
edit; I slow cool between tempers because D2 is an AIR COOL steel so the cool down needs to be as slow as possible without getting ridiculous.
Did I miss the temper cycle?
I didn't really show it, but did mention it..
In total I did two cycles on these at 325F
Can you get that steel hardness @62?
Yes, AEB-L can harden to 62 HRC. Most knife makers like to run it around 60-61.
Hahaha keep it up buddy!
thanks man!
Double quench it. Second quench at highest austenthising t. 170cx2. Cryo after first temper cycle. Get equilibrium
Never double quench any steel it adds extra stress
@@kinardoutdoortv873 nobody complained so far...besides, there's a hole book written on aeb-l/-h that overpowers your "never". There's like dozen ways u can ht aeb-l and 4 or 5 of them include double temp.... Just do it right with minimum delay between them (2 forges) and u'll be surprised...
@@alexgempfer937 maybe so but I’ve always been taught never double heat treat , temper is different from the quench . But the more u get steel to critical temp the more risk there is for failure . Not saying it can’t work just saying it’s extremely risky
@@kinardoutdoortv873 just for the sake of argument I'll post ht protocol I've used in a week time ( on holidays now)...if u r a knifemaker u can try it and run and test on it..works like a charm...similar can be done with viking/chipper/a8mod steel with great results...
@@kinardoutdoortv873 my bet on "double temper" ....
So you quench in oil then dry ice and mineral spirits ?
No, Aeb-l is an air quench steel, not an oil quench. He was bringing the temperature up after cryo
First )
thanks for watching