Love it bro, setup my innovative marine ext 100 this week as well. “I sent you a donation on a recent livestream to tell you”. I went with 2 reef brites and 3 ai primes and built my own custom brackets! I’m excited to see your full setup right along mine!
Alex, you may have all this sorted, but for what it's worth, I moved up from a 250l to a 1400l tank, and the best thing I did was proper auto water change and auto top-off. For auto-top off, I put a 100l tank in my garage, slightly higher than the sump, and it gravity feeds through a standard float valve. The 100l tank is fed from RO/DI, but crucially (a) it has a Auto Aqua Smart ATO triggering to start and stop filling and (b) a Reeffactory meter to warn if TDS goes above zero. It is therefore entirely hands off for ever. 100l is a big enough batch to mean the poorer quality water at the start is not an issue. For autowater change, I have two Reeffactory Large Dosing pumps, and I just pump in 3l and and out 6l every day. They are strong enough to deal with the tanks being on different floors if needs be (just don't put 1t of seawater in the attic without checking structures!). I mix a batch of salt water (800l tank in the garage) at 1.05 salinity (i.e 2x normal) and it keeps me going for 8 months or so. For backup, the power to the auto-water change pump is protected with a DD Skimmer Guardian, which cuts the power to the incoming Reeffactory pump if normal levels are exceeded, cheap flood insurance for £60. I have a auto-shut off valve/sensor on the RO-DI inlet. Finally I have a Reeffactory salinity monitor as a third level of backup, as if you are going to this level of automation, and dosing Kalk, you need to know quickly if something has gone wrong. And limiting the RO/DI tank to 100l through a very slow running float valve means nothing bad can happen too fast. Overkill, maybe, but each of the safety backups has been called on already at least once!
@reef dork Hi Alex, just watched your linked video on previous 4' tank costs - enlightening! It would be great to see a cost comparison for this LPS/Softy based tank, given the change of lighting and pumps etc. etc. Cheers, Rich.
Looks nice. Have you considered using small self adhesive cable trunking (the type that the cover clips onto the base) instead of the cable tie fasteners and cable ties to hold the power head cables. It’s hard to find in black but I used it on my RS 250. Gives it a cleaner look.
What would you think about a tubed pump, with a pipe or hose going from one end of the aquarium to the other? This in order to avoid diminished flow after the corals are growing or if the hardscape is changed. Have seen videos of various streaming pumps showing that the flow propagates best when it goes along the aquarium glass, and of course without obstacles. So guiding the pumped water to it‘s destination would make sense to me, if the goal is circulating it from one extreme to the other of the tank, to make sure that it gets flushed through. I have done this, coupled the exit of a „Power Filter PF 1000“ to a tube that I passed through the substrate to the other end of the tank. Hiding the tube was easy because I had a Jaubert system with over 10cm of substrate. I see guidig vs. not guiding the flow in an analogous way to free space radio or optical communications vs. coax cable, waveguides, and fibre optics. Free space communication works too, but you need more power, and it might get blocked by a bird. Another solution cold of course be using a canister filter, like in freshwater setups. I found on a forum that coupling more of these in series on the same tube is possible, resulting in higher flow.
That's weird - just double checked and mine is working for both ears of the headphones, but someone else has said the same as you! I've probably pressed a setting button somewhere - will have a look :-)
@@ReefDork I have 5.1 surround maybe something to do with that. Not sure. Also great video! Glad to see you trying out the Red Sea LEDs, their shimmer looks good, shame about the blue light though
Hey Alex how’s the light bleed? I have an older style tank with a canopy and I realized that going with a system like this is going to bathe the living room with light and blind us viewing from the couch
Nice! Regarding the power bricks for the lights; is there a way to install/hide them in the hanging kit (provided the roof/cables can handle the weight)?
You probably could - the pendant isn't mega strong but I'm sure it'd take a few extra kilos. You'd then need an extension from the brick to the plug but that'd be easily doable.
Ive been running an XR30 gen 3 from 2015 at 25% 12 inches from the water surface 😂😂😂 still going strong 9 years or so later 💪🏽 wish they would send me a new one free ❤
Damn you are going fast, My Peninsula S700 is still empty. For lighting I use 4x XR30 G5 pros, 3 XR30 G6 Blues with G5 lenses and 2x AI Blade grows on my existing tank and everything will go over to the Peninsula S700 in about 6-8 months. For your flow check out Ocean Motions.
I’m trying to decide Red Sea Reef 50 led light or AI Prime 16hd reef. Want something app controlled and around 300$ just gonna keep some basic beginner corals.
I’m at the same stages now with my 525 well I filled mine with tap to leak test as I don’t own an RODI machine, NSW are going to come around & fill it up next week then start the cycle 🤞🏼🙏🏼 I’ve got two mp40’s & a reefwave 45 going on & hoping that’ll be enough , what mode do you run your mp’s on please ? I’ve got an MP10 I may run on the back wall if needs be or can always grab another mp40 later down the line, also been debating an LPS only too…. Look forward to seeing the next video 👍🏻
That's weird - just double checked and mine is working for both ears of the headphones, but someone else has said the same as you! I've probably pressed a setting button somewhere - will have a look :-)
@ReefDork Audio is coming out of R&L for me, but super quiet in the right. With very high quality headphones. If your headphones are lower quality, they likely don't pick up the lower sound volume (or it may just be REALLY hard to hear). Just sharing for troubleshooting purposes.
Tank looks awesome, however those power cables send by OCD into overdrive. Not sure if there is a way to hide those cables in a better way? OCD is my problem not yours and I salute you as a fellow reef geek (sorry dork)
Watch the top corners of the tank. I've seen three red sea still burst seams with the corner armor. Maybe the euro braced ones are fine. They need a class action lawsuit leveled against them. The tanks explode. Something is wrong with the silicone or flatness of the glass still. These minimal and silicone seam tanks over 25 gallons are a liability without euro bracing. Ask yourself. Do you need a rimless tank of you're going to throw a huge net lid over the top? Buy something euro braced. Save your floor and livestock
i am just confused whether is it my settings (maybe depending on the kelvins) or is it always that way. There is not much to screw up with settings if there is blue and white . Also fogot to mention that i love your videos and approach !
All those gadgets Alex! 😂 You will be on overload
😅
I’m enjoying the build so far
Looks perfect, hope you will keep us updated
RIP Wall paper
😂😂😂
😂😂😂😂LOL
The Philodendron is absolutely stunning
Mrs Reef Dork says thank you 😊
Love it bro, setup my innovative marine ext 100 this week as well. “I sent you a donation on a recent livestream to tell you”.
I went with 2 reef brites and 3 ai primes and built my own custom brackets! I’m excited to see your full setup right along mine!
Nice!
I love the coral when they are in moon mode
Beautiful !! which brand of aquascape peaces did you bought ?
It's from a UK company called RR Aquascapes
Alex, you may have all this sorted, but for what it's worth, I moved up from a 250l to a 1400l tank, and the best thing I did was proper auto water change and auto top-off. For auto-top off, I put a 100l tank in my garage, slightly higher than the sump, and it gravity feeds through a standard float valve. The 100l tank is fed from RO/DI, but crucially (a) it has a Auto Aqua Smart ATO triggering to start and stop filling and (b) a Reeffactory meter to warn if TDS goes above zero. It is therefore entirely hands off for ever. 100l is a big enough batch to mean the poorer quality water at the start is not an issue. For autowater change, I have two Reeffactory Large Dosing pumps, and I just pump in 3l and and out 6l every day. They are strong enough to deal with the tanks being on different floors if needs be (just don't put 1t of seawater in the attic without checking structures!). I mix a batch of salt water (800l tank in the garage) at 1.05 salinity (i.e 2x normal) and it keeps me going for 8 months or so. For backup, the power to the auto-water change pump is protected with a DD Skimmer Guardian, which cuts the power to the incoming Reeffactory pump if normal levels are exceeded, cheap flood insurance for £60. I have a auto-shut off valve/sensor on the RO-DI inlet. Finally I have a Reeffactory salinity monitor as a third level of backup, as if you are going to this level of automation, and dosing Kalk, you need to know quickly if something has gone wrong. And limiting the RO/DI tank to 100l through a very slow running float valve means nothing bad can happen too fast. Overkill, maybe, but each of the safety backups has been called on already at least once!
Yep, I have a decent sized ATO all setup and an AWC ready to go using 2 Ecotech Versas!
Will you be measuring the power usage of this aquarium? I'd be interested to see how it performs and how much power it draws
Probably not - I've made a video on that before th-cam.com/video/T5O0oVeWGb0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ephhH1kUNSsdRxFb
@reef dork
Hi Alex, just watched your linked video on previous 4' tank costs - enlightening!
It would be great to see a cost comparison for this LPS/Softy based tank, given the change of lighting and pumps etc. etc.
Cheers,
Rich.
Looks nice. Have you considered using small self adhesive cable trunking (the type that the cover clips onto the base) instead of the cable tie fasteners and cable ties to hold the power head cables. It’s hard to find in black but I used it on my RS 250. Gives it a cleaner look.
What would you think about a tubed pump, with a pipe or hose going from one end of the aquarium to the other?
This in order to avoid diminished flow after the corals are growing or if the hardscape is changed.
Have seen videos of various streaming pumps showing that the flow propagates best when it goes along the aquarium glass, and of course without obstacles. So guiding the pumped water to it‘s destination would make sense to me, if the goal is circulating it from one extreme to the other of the tank, to make sure that it gets flushed through.
I have done this, coupled the exit of a „Power Filter PF 1000“ to a tube that I passed through the substrate to the other end of the tank. Hiding the tube was easy because I had a Jaubert system with over 10cm of substrate.
I see guidig vs. not guiding the flow in an analogous way to free space radio or optical communications vs. coax cable, waveguides, and fibre optics.
Free space communication works too, but you need more power, and it might get blocked by a bird.
Another solution cold of course be using a canister filter, like in freshwater setups. I found on a forum that coupling more of these in series on the same tube is possible, resulting in higher flow.
Not something I've seen before, but normal powerheads have always done a great job for me!
@@ReefDork this Idea would be similar to something known as closed loops: th-cam.com/video/VEjz6tLUiH4/w-d-xo.html
Would recommend a Hellawrap Applicator tool for the cable covers from the lights. Really makes it neat. Really do enjoy your videos as a new reefer!
unsure why, but for some reason the sound on this one is coming out of my left headphone only? only noticed on surround sound. do you have the same?
That's weird - just double checked and mine is working for both ears of the headphones, but someone else has said the same as you! I've probably pressed a setting button somewhere - will have a look :-)
@@ReefDork I have 5.1 surround maybe something to do with that. Not sure. Also great video! Glad to see you trying out the Red Sea LEDs, their shimmer looks good, shame about the blue light though
@TomoBishBosh hmm, nobody's mentioned it before so I must've changed something - it filmed the intro in HD instead of 4k for some reason too.
@@ReefDork here is where it happened first
Hey Alex how’s the light bleed?
I have an older style tank with a canopy and I realized that going with a system like this is going to bathe the living room with light and blind us viewing from the couch
It's fine - I don't notice anything and my Mrs hasn't complained! I only run low intensity to be fair
Nice!
Regarding the power bricks for the lights; is there a way to install/hide them in the hanging kit (provided the roof/cables can handle the weight)?
You probably could - the pendant isn't mega strong but I'm sure it'd take a few extra kilos. You'd then need an extension from the brick to the plug but that'd be easily doable.
@@ReefDork yeah, and you could get away with just one cable and no issues with heat in the cabinet 🤔
I would of mounted the wires from joists. The fixings you have are good but thats a fair bit of weight.
Tanks looking great
How are you liking the Red Sea 160s now that you've had them going?
Would you consider buying or would you go for radeons?
They're great - really nice shimmer and the fans don't come on at 25%. I don't like Radions personally - the only other light I'd consider is Kessils.
How long have you been using your wavemakers for?
About 6 years so far
@@ReefDorknice are these the mp40s?
@@ItzAlfii yep
Ive been running an XR30 gen 3 from 2015 at 25% 12 inches from the water surface 😂😂😂 still going strong 9 years or so later 💪🏽 wish they would send me a new one free ❤
Damn you are going fast, My Peninsula S700 is still empty. For lighting I use 4x XR30 G5 pros, 3 XR30 G6 Blues with G5 lenses and 2x AI Blade grows on my existing tank and everything will go over to the Peninsula S700 in about 6-8 months. For your flow check out Ocean Motions.
I’m trying to decide Red Sea Reef 50 led light or AI Prime 16hd reef. Want something app controlled and around 300$ just gonna keep some basic beginner corals.
Both good lights, Red Sea shimmer better, AI better for me. Have a look at the Nicrew HyperReef gen 2 as well - that's a good budget option.
@ ok I’ll check that out too. I forgot to say it’s on a 20gallon tank
I’m at the same stages now with my 525 well I filled mine with tap to leak test as I don’t own an RODI machine, NSW are going to come around & fill it up next week then start the cycle 🤞🏼🙏🏼 I’ve got two mp40’s & a reefwave 45 going on & hoping that’ll be enough , what mode do you run your mp’s on please ? I’ve got an MP10 I may run on the back wall if needs be or can always grab another mp40 later down the line, also been debating an LPS only too…. Look forward to seeing the next video 👍🏻
Currently just expanding pulse, but I'll play around with it when I get the rock/sand/corals in...
@@ReefDork thanks fella, all the best 👍🏻
Coming together nicely Alex
That pendant is really neat, Maybe some sort of stainless steel brackets could be good instead of the aluminium. Easy job just laser cut and shaped
there is a cat in your sump! :-) @1:58 (also your voice is only in my left ear for some reason)
That's weird - just double checked and mine is working for both ears of the headphones, but someone else has said the same as you! I've probably pressed a setting button somewhere - will have a look :-)
@ReefDork Audio is coming out of R&L for me, but super quiet in the right. With very high quality headphones. If your headphones are lower quality, they likely don't pick up the lower sound volume (or it may just be REALLY hard to hear). Just sharing for troubleshooting purposes.
I wondered if it was because I was using a 7.1 headset, fairly decent quality but far from audiophile territory 🤣 steelseries sonar
@@theeastcoastreefer possibly - the other guy said he has 5.1 headphones! I use studio monitors so they usually pick up flaws...
Tank looks awesome, however those power cables send by OCD into overdrive. Not sure if there is a way to hide those cables in a better way? OCD is my problem not yours and I salute you as a fellow reef geek (sorry dork)
I think you need 2 gyres for flow
Just get the 3d printed flow directors. They exist nowadays.
Watch the top corners of the tank. I've seen three red sea still burst seams with the corner armor. Maybe the euro braced ones are fine.
They need a class action lawsuit leveled against them. The tanks explode.
Something is wrong with the silicone or flatness of the glass still.
These minimal and silicone seam tanks over 25 gallons are a liability without euro bracing.
Ask yourself. Do you need a rimless tank of you're going to throw a huge net lid over the top? Buy something euro braced. Save your floor and livestock
Why is no one mensioning that red sea’s light is very purple not blue ? Or is just me ?
I've seen others say that yeah - I didn't find that when I had the 90 but I'll see how these go
i am just confused whether is it my settings (maybe depending on the kelvins) or is it always that way. There is not much to screw up with settings if there is blue and white . Also fogot to mention that i love your videos and approach !
Sadly, the hanging kits on the lights always look AWFUL because of the power cables.
Get some sand in there
I say 5 month before he switches lights