Hi folks, astropixel peeper (see below) points out that the QE graph of the ASI1600MM Pro is relative whereas the QE of the ASI2600MM Pro is absolute, meaning that the ASI2600MM Pro has a higher QE after all. I stand corrected.
Stupendous comparison Wido. Your explanations were awesome especially with the quantum efficiency and full-well depth stuff. I love the my ASI1600MM but I will eventually have to get a newer monochrome. I did get an ASI2600MC for a portable setup and so far it is awesome. The one thing you might want to mention in a follow up video is the file sizes, the ASI1600 is 32 MB whereas the ASI2600 is 51 MB which means your processing will be a bit longer. Cheers Kurt
Thanks Kurt! Yes, I'm testing the ASI2600MM right now and I noticed the large size. Let's see how it goes with processing. Hope you'll get some nice pictures with that ASI2600MC Kurt, clear skies!
Great comparison! I got lucky last year. A local vendor happen to have a 2600mm that I was able to go snag. So while everyone waited for their pre-orders so ship, I had mine in hand. I pair it with my TS Photoline 130/910. All I can say is after more than a year of use this camera still amazes me. The zero amp glow, aps-c size/16bit sensor makes for some really great data, and pairing all that with Chroma 3nm Oiii and 8nm H-alpha filters does fantastic in my light polluted yard. When I can get to my friends bortle 2 dark site for some broadband galaxy imaging though, that’s where the scope/camera combo really shines.
There is a technical error on the video. The QE of the 1600MM is given in relative QE, therefore in the graph 1.0 is 60% and 0.9 is 54% absolute QE. The 2600MM has much higher efficiency and its graph is given in QE% as shown.
The QE graph comparison was particularly interesting. It does make the 1600s QE not seem quite as bad when you consider the entire range of visible light as opposed to just peak value.
@@peterfontein9227 agreed, that's the way I read it. Otherwise the QE would be 100% at around 550nm. Whole graph should assume that peak is at 60% QE. Which means 2600 is way better.
@@peterfontein9227 Yes, that's true, but all it means is that the 1600 requires a 50% longer integration time to achieve the same conversion rate between photons and electrons. BUT, since the full well of the 1600 is 40% of the full well of the 2600, then it only requires a total of 60% the integration time before it achieves full well even taking into account the lower quantum efficiency. But the extra full well depth and the ADC allows you to achieve a higher dynamic range, you might say. This is true, but the end result will be stretched and then finally compressed. Your computer ONLY has 8 bits of depth for each color. Any extra bit depth must be compressed. A pixel has 24 bits of depth, but this is deceiving, because it is comprised of 8 bits R, B, and G. Clearly the 2600 is a better sensor, it's hard to argue against that, but the 1600 is capable, we have all seen the results. But even the size of the chip isn't a be all and end all. If that extra size brings you more vignetting or more chromatic aberration, or more coma, then was the extra size worthwhile? Is the extra well depth something you will really be able to use? Is your imaging really limited by the quantum efficiency of the chip? Is cost a factor?
Thanks again for another great astro-gear review, Wido! Based on everything I've seen on your videos and some research I did myself, I'm sold on the 2600. Now, about convincing your wife to let you buy astro equipment... Got a video for that?! Great stuff here!! Thank you for the hard work and excellent information.
Very interesting video! Would love to see a direct comparison on the same target with the same scope and see potential differences in image quality! E.g. is the amp glow an issue with the 1600 when making calibration frames of good quality? It would be interesting if you can really see a difference in image quality, or if the higher price is basically "just" for the bigger FOV. Thanks again for your interesting video and the great explanations!
Hi Andreas, I have no issues calibrating out the small amount of ampglow on my asi1600MM Pro. It has been my best mono camera so far. I'm also curious about the image quality of the new 2600MM Pro, will definitely adress that when I get the chance to get a first light.
I just moved from using an asi294mc pro to the asi2600mm pro. As I was using an osc camera I had to get filters as well and went with the antlia lrgb sho 3nm filters. I have not yet put it to use as we have had nothing but rain and clouds. But I cant wait to get this setup going
Great video wido, what a different between those 2 ASI. I got my Skywatcher EQ6R Pro at home yesterday. But i discovered that longtitude screw is terrrible. i have to place it on 52 degrees. Tonight i do a trying outside on the moon how to remote it with EQ mod and stellerium on my laptop.
I am looking at mono Imagining and purchasing the 2600MM camera. I do have the ZWO6200MC camera that I use with my Redcat71 and Sharpstar PH140 This camera is full frame and works great with my scopes. The cost of the 2600MM is around £600 more than the Altair 26M camera that uses the same sensor. From what I have read the 2600 has suffered with leaking onto the sensor window. I think the latest models have this issue sorted. Anyway thanks for sharing.
Pounds? What is that? Hehe, just kidding. Yes, I did notice that Altair put out cameras at competitive prices in the UK. Hope you'll have some great results with that stellar setup. Cheers.
Very thorough and informative video Wido, well explained ! You forgot to mention that the 2600 is a beast of a camera compared to the 1600, I was very surprised how big it is when I opened the box a year ago 🙂
I still use my asi1600mm pro on the edge hd and decided on pairing the 2600 to an apo refractor for some wonderful widerfield images of the night sky. Take care!
Good Camera but I am going for the much cheaper Omegon 571MM (or touptek, risingcam). Missing the Tiltplate, the dew heater and compatibility with asiair (none of which I need) its one hell of a deal with local support.
Great review! Really useful and informative. I’m currently planning to switch across to mono from one shot color and am looking at getting the 2600mm pro. Curious whether you would still opt for the camera a year on from making this video?
Hi there, thanks! I really like the asi2600MM Pro, it produces high quality pictures. I also got my hands on the color version and got very good results across a couple of sessions. What you do need to take into account is that the asi2600 is a bit heavier, bigger and it needs at minimum 36mm sized filters to cover the sensor. The file sizes are about 50MB per picture, and it does take more time to stack and process the images. I really like the larger FoV, especially in combination with longer focal length telescopes. There's also a duo version which has an extra camera sensor for auto guiding. Clear skies!
Hi Aad, the general advise is to get a pixel size of around 1 arcsecond per pixel with any camera for deepsky. I think a focal length of about 700 would be ideal, and the lower the f/ratio is the better for deep-sky as it will take you less time to photograph deep-sky objects. I'm going to test it with my 480mm refractor, cheers!
Both are great cameras, but my 2600 blows my1600 away. But the price difference is significant, especially if you need to get the larger, more expensive filters to make full use of the 2600. For most people, I think price is the determining factor. If you can afford it, the 2600 is the way to go. If not, you'll still be very happy with the 1600.
Out of interest, what is it about the 2600 that blows the 1600 away? I can see from the specs it is better, but does it translate to significantly better images?
@@astromatt75 The fact that it's 16-bit vs.12-bit. That allows you to stretch the image a lot more, bringing out fainter detail. Also, my 2600 is a lot less noisier. My 1600 has a bit of amp glow, but my darks on the 2600 are clean and uniform. I'm tempted to do away with darks altogether with the 2600, but they do help on the margins. (Your results may vary on the amp glow.)
@@davewilton6021 Would 16-bit vs 12-bit ADU make much difference if always viewed on an 8-bit monitor, or does it not quite work like that? I like that it has no amp glow, but that said I’ve not had any issue calibrating amp glow out on any of my images. I was tempted to do away with darks on my other camera that has zero amp glow, but still need it to remove the red pixels.
@@astromatt75 The 16-bit allows you to stretch the image more without introducing noise. Your processing uses the full spectrum of values, even if the display does not. You can save the final image as 8-bit and it will look the same as a final 16-bit image on your monitor, but if you process the image at a lower bit depth, you have less flexibility before introducing noise and color banding.
Hi Wido, have you experienced any oil leak issues on the ASI2600 as other have? I was thinking about upgrading my camera or just getting a second to the ASI1600mm pro but from what I hear, the oil leak issue still has not been resolved and I am a little reluctant to drop that kind of money for something that will need to be fixed or replaced due to the known oil leak. Thanks again for sharing the great information.
So I've got a 1600mm pro and a 2600mc pro. Going to keep the 1600mm but was thinking of upgrading the 2600mc to a 2400mc pro for the bigger pixels and larger sensor. Good idea?
Yes, I've been imaging at .5 with my 8" Edge HD and .7 focal reducer, it is interesting...my seeing is often not good enough for deep-sky to take advantage of that scale. Good luck!
Hi folks, astropixel peeper (see below) points out that the QE graph of the ASI1600MM Pro is relative whereas the QE of the ASI2600MM Pro is absolute, meaning that the ASI2600MM Pro has a higher QE after all. I stand corrected.
Stupendous comparison Wido. Your explanations were awesome especially with the quantum efficiency and full-well depth stuff. I love the my ASI1600MM but I will eventually have to get a newer monochrome. I did get an ASI2600MC for a portable setup and so far it is awesome. The one thing you might want to mention in a follow up video is the file sizes, the ASI1600 is 32 MB whereas the ASI2600 is 51 MB which means your processing will be a bit longer. Cheers Kurt
Thanks Kurt! Yes, I'm testing the ASI2600MM right now and I noticed the large size. Let's see how it goes with processing. Hope you'll get some nice pictures with that ASI2600MC Kurt, clear skies!
Thank you Wido. You have a talent for clearly presenting these technical details that make astrophotography so interesting.
Thanks a lot!
Hi Wido. Thanks for the comparison. Though it's not in my league love seeing the new products out there. Looking forward to your first light.
Yes, it's an expensive camera. Thanks for watching Perry!
Great comparison! I got lucky last year. A local vendor happen to have a 2600mm that I was able to go snag. So while everyone waited for their pre-orders so ship, I had mine in hand. I pair it with my TS Photoline 130/910. All I can say is after more than a year of use this camera still amazes me. The zero amp glow, aps-c size/16bit sensor makes for some really great data, and pairing all that with Chroma 3nm Oiii and 8nm H-alpha filters does fantastic in my light polluted yard. When I can get to my friends bortle 2 dark site for some broadband galaxy imaging though, that’s where the scope/camera combo really shines.
Great, that gives me hope Andrew, clear skies 😉!
There is a technical error on the video. The QE of the 1600MM is given in relative QE, therefore in the graph 1.0 is 60% and 0.9 is 54% absolute QE. The 2600MM has much higher efficiency and its graph is given in QE% as shown.
ah, relative output vs absolute output. I stand corrected, thanks. Pinned a message to this vlog and will mention this in future videos.
Wido, you can never have too much information 😁 Thank you for sharing.
Hahaha, well I got tired of listening to my self, but I hope the info is useful for folks who are considering either camera. Cheers!
The QE graph comparison was particularly interesting. It does make the 1600s QE not seem quite as bad when you consider the entire range of visible light as opposed to just peak value.
Yes, I thought so as well. Thanks for watching!
The QE curve of 1600 is misleading. It is relative to peak, which is set at 100%. But it is not 100% at peak.
@@peterfontein9227 agreed, that's the way I read it. Otherwise the QE would be 100% at around 550nm. Whole graph should assume that peak is at 60% QE. Which means 2600 is way better.
@@peterfontein9227 Yes, that's true, but all it means is that the 1600 requires a 50% longer integration time to achieve the same conversion rate between photons and electrons. BUT, since the full well of the 1600 is 40% of the full well of the 2600, then it only requires a total of 60% the integration time before it achieves full well even taking into account the lower quantum efficiency.
But the extra full well depth and the ADC allows you to achieve a higher dynamic range, you might say. This is true, but the end result will be stretched and then finally compressed. Your computer ONLY has 8 bits of depth for each color. Any extra bit depth must be compressed. A pixel has 24 bits of depth, but this is deceiving, because it is comprised of 8 bits R, B, and G.
Clearly the 2600 is a better sensor, it's hard to argue against that, but the 1600 is capable, we have all seen the results. But even the size of the chip isn't a be all and end all. If that extra size brings you more vignetting or more chromatic aberration, or more coma, then was the extra size worthwhile? Is the extra well depth something you will really be able to use? Is your imaging really limited by the quantum efficiency of the chip? Is cost a factor?
Thanks again for another great astro-gear review, Wido! Based on everything I've seen on your videos and some research I did myself, I'm sold on the 2600. Now, about convincing your wife to let you buy astro equipment... Got a video for that?! Great stuff here!! Thank you for the hard work and excellent information.
Glad to help! Take her out to diner :-)
@@AstroForumSpace :-D
Very interesting video! Would love to see a direct comparison on the same target with the same scope and see potential differences in image quality! E.g. is the amp glow an issue with the 1600 when making calibration frames of good quality? It would be interesting if you can really see a difference in image quality, or if the higher price is basically "just" for the bigger FOV. Thanks again for your interesting video and the great explanations!
Hi Andreas, I have no issues calibrating out the small amount of ampglow on my asi1600MM Pro. It has been my best mono camera so far. I'm also curious about the image quality of the new 2600MM Pro, will definitely adress that when I get the chance to get a first light.
Very well explained…best explanation yet!
Thanks Jeffrey, glad you enjoyed it!
I just moved from using an asi294mc pro to the asi2600mm pro. As I was using an osc camera I had to get filters as well and went with the antlia lrgb sho 3nm filters. I have not yet put it to use as we have had nothing but rain and clouds. But I cant wait to get this setup going
Congrats! I have some standard zwo 36mm filters that I plan to try out. Hope those clouds will disappear at some point 😉
Great video wido, what a different between those 2 ASI. I got my Skywatcher EQ6R Pro at home yesterday. But i discovered that longtitude screw is terrrible. i have to place it on 52 degrees.
Tonight i do a trying outside on the moon how to remote it with EQ mod and stellerium on my laptop.
Hi Stefan, hope you had a good time yesterday. I replaced the altitude lever with a normal bolt, works a lot better.
@@AstroForumSpace can you give me a link
I am looking at mono Imagining and purchasing the 2600MM camera. I do have the ZWO6200MC camera that I use with my Redcat71 and Sharpstar PH140 This camera is full frame and works great with my scopes. The cost of the 2600MM is around £600 more than the Altair 26M camera that uses the same sensor. From what I have read the 2600 has suffered with leaking onto the sensor window. I think the latest models have this issue sorted. Anyway thanks for sharing.
Pounds? What is that? Hehe, just kidding. Yes, I did notice that Altair put out cameras at competitive prices in the UK. Hope you'll have some great results with that stellar setup. Cheers.
Great video, thank you for sharing the comparison. 🔭
Very thorough and informative video Wido, well explained !
You forgot to mention that the 2600 is a beast of a camera compared to the 1600, I was very surprised how big it is when I opened the box a year ago 🙂
The Asi2600 (aps-c) will vignette on an 8" SCT, especially with a focal reducer.
I still use my asi1600mm pro on the edge hd and decided on pairing the 2600 to an apo refractor for some wonderful widerfield images of the night sky. Take care!
Wido, enjoying your videos. Since you purchased the ASI2600, are you shooting dark frames?
I'm doing some tests right now. There's no considerable amp glow and with cooling, the dark noise is minimal. So it may be possible to ignore darks...
Good Camera but I am going for the much cheaper Omegon 571MM (or touptek, risingcam). Missing the Tiltplate, the dew heater and compatibility with asiair (none of which I need) its one hell of a deal with local support.
Hope you'll get nice images with that setup, clear skies 😉!
Great review! Really useful and informative.
I’m currently planning to switch across to mono from one shot color and am looking at getting the 2600mm pro. Curious whether you would still opt for the camera a year on from making this video?
Hi there, thanks! I really like the asi2600MM Pro, it produces high quality pictures. I also got my hands on the color version and got very good results across a couple of sessions. What you do need to take into account is that the asi2600 is a bit heavier, bigger and it needs at minimum 36mm sized filters to cover the sensor. The file sizes are about 50MB per picture, and it does take more time to stack and process the images. I really like the larger FoV, especially in combination with longer focal length telescopes. There's also a duo version which has an extra camera sensor for auto guiding. Clear skies!
@@AstroForumSpace thanks again! Really appreciate the advice and your thoughts on it. I definitely think it’s the camera I’ll go for 😄. Clear skies
Hola, Wido! Great comparison, and interesting video! By the way… are you going to sell the 1600?
Hehe. I'm keeping it for now as the back focus is different and it fits my EDGE HD 8. I'm becoming somewhat of a hoarder 😉. Cheers!
Im just thinking about the ASI 2600 price. You mentioned in the video approx. 2500$ but I see in EU over 3000 EUR. So it's US price? :)
Thanks Wido for the comparison and clear explanation. Is there also a best focal length or f number for this camara?
Hi Aad, the general advise is to get a pixel size of around 1 arcsecond per pixel with any camera for deepsky. I think a focal length of about 700 would be ideal, and the lower the f/ratio is the better for deep-sky as it will take you less time to photograph deep-sky objects. I'm going to test it with my 480mm refractor, cheers!
Both are great cameras, but my 2600 blows my1600 away. But the price difference is significant, especially if you need to get the larger, more expensive filters to make full use of the 2600. For most people, I think price is the determining factor. If you can afford it, the 2600 is the way to go. If not, you'll still be very happy with the 1600.
Thanks Dave
Out of interest, what is it about the 2600 that blows the 1600 away? I can see from the specs it is better, but does it translate to significantly better images?
@@astromatt75 The fact that it's 16-bit vs.12-bit. That allows you to stretch the image a lot more, bringing out fainter detail. Also, my 2600 is a lot less noisier. My 1600 has a bit of amp glow, but my darks on the 2600 are clean and uniform. I'm tempted to do away with darks altogether with the 2600, but they do help on the margins. (Your results may vary on the amp glow.)
@@davewilton6021 Would 16-bit vs 12-bit ADU make much difference if always viewed on an 8-bit monitor, or does it not quite work like that? I like that it has no amp glow, but that said I’ve not had any issue calibrating amp glow out on any of my images. I was tempted to do away with darks on my other camera that has zero amp glow, but still need it to remove the red pixels.
@@astromatt75 The 16-bit allows you to stretch the image more without introducing noise. Your processing uses the full spectrum of values, even if the display does not. You can save the final image as 8-bit and it will look the same as a final 16-bit image on your monitor, but if you process the image at a lower bit depth, you have less flexibility before introducing noise and color banding.
Hi Wido, have you experienced any oil leak issues on the ASI2600 as other have? I was thinking about upgrading my camera or just getting a second to the ASI1600mm pro but from what I hear, the oil leak issue still has not been resolved and I am a little reluctant to drop that kind of money for something that will need to be fixed or replaced due to the known oil leak. Thanks again for sharing the great information.
I think that issue is with asi2600mm cameras produced before october 2021.
Hi! What do you think about COLOR version ASI2600MM Pro? Better, worse, similar?
Different, it has a bayer matrix. See my video about mono vs color cameras for astrophotography
So I've got a 1600mm pro and a 2600mc pro.
Going to keep the 1600mm but was thinking of upgrading the 2600mc to a 2400mc pro for the bigger pixels and larger sensor.
Good idea?
Depends on your focal length, what telescope are you using? For deep-sky ap, I'll always try to get somewhere around 1 arcsec per pixel.
@@AstroForumSpace yes my HD9.25 at 1645mm or 2350mm would love the bigger pixels😊
The 2400 has some great specs...100k fullwell and >80% efficiency!
Yes, I've been imaging at .5 with my 8" Edge HD and .7 focal reducer, it is interesting...my seeing is often not good enough for deep-sky to take advantage of that scale. Good luck!
@@AstroForumSpace Thanks! Yeah I typically bin2x with my 1600
I miss the weight of the camera`s, if you have a weight limit that can be important.