Mastering Oil Painting: How To Choose The Right Drying Oils
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- Please watch: "Choosing the Best White for Your Oil Painting"
• Choosing the Best Whit... -~-
Learn to master oil painting by knowing which drying oils to use in your art. This live-streaming session of the Artist Materials Advisor explains the differences between cold-pressed, refined, stand (bodied), and drying oils. Understanding what each medium does can help you achieve successful oil painting techniques.
Comprehensive guide to drying oils: www.naturalpig...
To learn more: www.naturalpig...
For a listing of a wide range of drying oils: www.naturalpig...
#oilpaint #paintingtechniques #
The ultimate paint nerds. 🙂
You are right.
Thanks for all of these very detailed and informative videos. So awesome.
So appreciate all these videos--the only binge-watching I do! BTW I have found that lead white is just a little sticky for me straight out of the tube, but with just a drop of bodied oil is dreamy.
Thank you for your excellent videos. I admire the passion shown in your videos. As a mexican, I can add that Chia Oil stands between Walnut and Linseed Oil in fatty acid content and proportion. It would be useful to consider it as an art material. In itself, is an historic material. Artisans from the Guerrero province, practice a tecnique called 'Maque' which polimerise oil over wooden boxes of a variety or copal wood.
There are a wide variety of vegetable oils that may be used in fine art. However, none surpass the drying and physical properties of linseed oil.
Los felicito por la información disposición sencillez y don de gentes. GRACIAS
Gracias!
Wonderful to hear vermillion will be back
Fascinating, thanks!
I know I am going to watch this 20 times before I understand where all these oil type belong to me... Can I go somewhere to have a good chat about these things? A forum? Maybe you have a Discord channel?
You can join our Painting Best Practices website which features courses on artists materials and the painting best practices. This is a new website with a forum where you can ask questions. Go here: paintingbestpractices.com
Leonardo da Vinci used walnut oil as well as linseed oil! Im very happy with Rublev Walnut Oil. And am Ising safflower nd bit of clove oil for cleaning brushes ..Tiny windowless studio~
Thanks for sharing!
Hi, great talk about oils! So many oils! My question is: what is the best oil for a faster drying? I do a mix with white spirit and walnut oil (2 parts of ws and 1 part of wo) but maybe you can tell me a better way. When I'm working with oil my work is based a lot on adding and subtract. I'm a self-taught artist, so you can imagine how much this talk is important for me. Also, do you sell your material in Europe? Thank you so much!
For fsater drying do not use walnut oil. Use our aged, refined linseed oil for best overall results.
Hello, all problems related to cold pressed linseed oil you mention, as being slow drying, darker, varying in color, etc... are due to the presence of fatty acids in it (that reseacher Mr. Louis Velasquez refers as "mucilage"). To avoid that, the oil must be properly cleansed by some methods developed by this author. Prefereabily before it darkens (I think due to fatty acids oxidation). Once done, it achieves a similar- not harmful- tint color than the alkaly refined one. Even further, it reaches a perfect transparent (no tint at all) when exposed to hot summer sun for some few days. Also it has more wettness than hot pressed alkaly refined. Cold pressed and properly cleansed linseed oil, plus a quick exposure to sun, is the wonderful oil of the great masters, with absolutely no drawback.
The presence of free fatty acids in cold-pressed oil can actually hasten drying. The so-called mucilage is a mixture of many different substances, The substance that hinders drying are a class of anti-oxidants that are typically removed through a series of processes performed for modern, refined oil. Washing oil is one of these steps, but others are necessary to remove anti-oxidants, waxes, chromophores, etc. Keep in mind that when exposing oil to light and air causes the formation of glycerides and oxidatively polymerized oil. Chromophores and the presence of oxidized oil increases the potential of yellowing, even though the oil may appear lighter.
Will you ever make your paints and mediums available in Australia please?
They are available in Australia: Kadmium Art Supplies carries a complete line of our paints in Sydney.
hi from london ont
Hi!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I’ve gone through most of your videos, some 3 to 4 times. My brain doesn’t have the same capacity as George’s, although I strongly suspect he is a cyborg.
Shelly, Tatiana, can assure you I am not a cyborg.
@@RublevColours 🤔😂
@@RublevColours 🤣No he is not cyborg.
@@UncleJunior52 Excellent idea 🙌I think that is very possible these days.
How do I achieve thicker paint without more fillers? I dislike the more buttery consistency that today's tube paints seem to be going to. I like my pigments pure as possible and stay somewhat separate while mixing 2 or 3 colors. I like my mixed color to be less consistent and sometimes need to drag very dry paint for an affect. Do I need to make my own paint?
Have you tried Rublev Colours Artists Oils-the only oil paints without additives and fillers?
What if one adds a fast drying medium to titanium? Would that stop the yellowing skin from forming?
It is possible-we have observed this with titanium white in alkyd.
Why don’t expect to make your own oleogel?
Oleogel has simple ingredients, but the process of making it is complicated.
since there is a relatively big difference in the quality of paint film that is formed between oils, is there also a difference between bodied oils and natural ones? I seem to remember looking at an article that showed that cracking caused by zinc is drastically reduced if it was mixed in "standoil". I dont know if there is an overall positive effect on the film or if this was just mentioned in relation to problems regarding zinc. would bodied linseed oil give me a stronger paint film compared to just linseed oil?
thanks for these very informative segments btw!
I would be interested in the article you refer to because it does not correlate with the studies we have seen. Bodied oils tend to yellow less than non-bodied oils because there are fewer reactive sites for oxidative polymerization.
@@RublevColours I could only find the article i have read on cracking in regards to acrylic grounds which doesn't really relate on justpaint org
Unfortunately the bending test i referred to I could not find anymore, its been a year or two. But i remember it showing a noticeable reduction in cracking with zinc-titanium combinations. It might just be me confusing paint film strength with flexibility when in reality the term includes more parameters like hardness etc. Which is why the thought popped up if there is a difference better or worse.
Lead white isn’t a typically fast drying paint if it isn’t formulated as such?
I thought lead white was quite fast to dry. Lead is even used as drier..
Lead white (basic lead carbonate) is not a primary drier, and it is not used as a drier in oil paint. It can dry fast with the right drying oil, but typically it does not dry fast. Lead oxide or litharge is used as a drier in oil, but it is not a primary drier but rather a secondary or through drier.
Basic lead carbonate AKA lead white is a well drying pigment, but I'd say perhaps only fraction on the faster side of medium/average speed. Though lead, nowhere nearly as reactive as various lead driers. These can sometimes already be present in some productions of lead white, but are usually added after the fact. Winsor & Newton, (and I imagine others,) used to add lead driers to their lead whites. (Remembering W&N don't make lead whites anymore.) In more recent decades only adding these lead driers to their lead pigments and other driers to non lead pigments. They already had to put lead warnings on their lead colours, so one imagines no loss to put in the lead driers in these. If they put those same driers in other colours then they'd have to put warnings on those as well. So naturally they didn't. Though I can't speak for colours made in the first half of the last century.
@@RublevColours what do you mean by primary vs secondary drier?
I know lead carbonate is used as a drier in at least one old formula. But not sure how common. Doesn’t seem like it was very common.
I have experienced that lead white dries much, much faster than most all other pigments I have, not quite as fast as my cobalt teal walnut oil paint, but close.
@@erxfav3197 Primary driers are those that dry catalytically top down, whereas secondary or 'through driers' induce polymerization throughout the paint film. There are some old formulas with lead white as one of the driers, but these were not consdiered driers.
V F G
And the meaning?
@@RublevColours очень чертовски хорошо
@@oilpaints Thank you, but очень чертовски хорошо does not have the same initials in English.
@@RublevColours LOST IN TRANSLATION