Been watching you for 5 days on color-I must have at least 30 pages of notes on stuff I NEVER LEARNED in college art classes. I'm like a sponge, LOL Thank you SO MUCH for your wonderful, well made videos and clear teaching style, you ROCK Jason!
Thanks for this, recently I’ve see TH-cam artists and read literature from Schmincke ,claiming Ultramarine blue was warm and Phthalo blue was cool. I almost lost my mind believing I had got this wrong for over a decade. Your explanation makes perfect sense and confirms my original instruction on this matter.
I hear split primaries being mentioned but nobody really explains it, although it’s fairly obvious this was a good breakdown of the idea, and it’s 7 years old. First of your videos I have stumbled upon. I decided I’m better off starting out (after using WAY too many colours for a while now) with a very limited palette of 3 single pigment colours, burnt umber and white. It is so much simpler to work with even if I can’t pull off every single colour match exactly. Working hard on values anyway.
So glad you raised the blue debate - That was always a psychological dilemma for me. As an artist I always new phthalo blue / cyan were the cool blues... but in my head they always "felt warm". Is that the Sunny days spent splashing around in the pool as a kid - I don't know.
Great explaination and demo Jason...so many will still think ultramarine is cool. I think the confusion comes in is due to.. French ultramarine is frequently used for its depth of hue. But apply a thin glaze of this blue and it will appear slightly violet. Thus the violet is where it confuses many... ultramarine is a warm blue as it is slightly biased towards red. You really explained this topic very clear and mixing the colors...helped a lot with the other colors....thanks so much. Valuable info...
Your color theory/ mixing tutorials are excellent. You’re a natural born instructor. Somehow you make this incredibly interesting 😊😊. Ty for putting out such quality tutorials. They’ve helped me immensely.
I watched many videos of yours and was so helpful for me. I loved the explanations in this video. It's make mixing the colours more easily to find the needed colour and to love the mixing more too 😄 Thank you so much 🌹
I’m a big fan of the split primary palette. Interesting to see/hear another’s take a it. Cheers Jason. Also digging the chilled vibes you had playing in the background...
Ok. I think I've just learned more about colour mixing in this 10 minute video than in the last year I have spent oil painting. Thankyou Jason. Very informative.
Hi Jason, your videos on colors are gems! Expecially this one: now color mixing is all clear (or....colorfully clear). You explain concepts so well! Thsnk you!
Fantastic idea.....split primary.....! I agree on the ultramarine being cool instead of warm: I suppose it is considered warm on the assumption that it is nearer to red on the wheel than phtalo blue but that does not mean anything: even reds can be warm or cool, so maybe it has got to due with relating the color red with fire, which is warm and that leads to the assumption that ultramarine is warm.
Thanks for bringing up the which blue is cooler question. I'm actually with robert gamblin (color man for his paint brand, and a good painter of course) and others considering the opposite to be our pick- thalo blue cool, ultra.blue warm. Landscape painters often pick your choice probably due to the yellow of sunlight is the warming factor which makes sense... maybe it's a video topic for me to do "which blue is cooler" to say why my pick, it doesn't really matter which blue although warm and cool theory is still very very important, anyway well done video "dude" i did the same one, practically, once but maybe wasn't so clearly explained took it down.
Hi Peter and thanks for the great comment! You're right that it depends on the style you work in as well as personal color perception as to which is which. Neither one is wrong or right. It's definitely a great topic for a future more in-depth video. :) Glad you enjoyed it.
All blue colours are cool. Some are cooler than others. It's a bit of an oxymoron to argue about warm vs cool blues. Our psychological perception depends on many factors ( tinting strength , relation with other nearby colours etc). In a simple desert landscape, with a pale ochre sand on the lower side and a blue sky above, phthalo plus a little white looks more sunny , while ultramarine plus white feels more like a cloudy day..( given a similar value for both ). I think that I agree with this video, that considers ultramarine on the cooler side of blues..
I recently discovered the violet thing after someone gave me a tube of magenta and a tube of cyan. It was so much brighter and striking than the ultramarine/red mix. I couldn't figure it out, but now it all makes sense! Thank you. I love your videos. On another note, I notice you sometimes complain that the true colour doesn't show on camera. You should do a white balance before you put your paint down.
Thanks for your terrific informative videos. On the subject of a warm and cool blue, the opposite problem actually exists for orange, but we rarely discuss this because a cool orange is not often considered. Colours can only "lean" towards a contiguous colour or adjacent colour on the wheel, if they lean any further than that then they've really moved into the next colour frequency. So the ultramarine/phthalo debate becomes a debate about which is warmer, purple or green, the answer is neither. It all comes down to subjectivity or context, you can't talk about blues being warm or cool in absolute terms, they're only cool or warm in relative terms. The temperature of blue is dependent on which other colours are juxtaposed with it. Because blue sits smack between two cool colours on the colour wheel, purple and green, therefore any variant of blue can only "lean" towards a cool colour, either purple/violet (cool) or green (cool). Blue can't lean towards a warm green because it sits on the cool side of green. Equally with warm purple because it's on the cool side of purple. If it leans across the wheel instead of contiguously, then it enters the realm of greys or colour mixes and is no longer a true blue. Therefore when viewed on their own all blues are cool, just as all oranges are warm. Blue can only truly appear cool or warm in context with other colours. The same is not true for red for example, because red borders with both a cool (purple) and warm (orange) so it can literally lean towards cool or warm. etc etc.
Thanks for watching and for a great comment! I think you touched on the heart of the matter which is that it is really subjective to what how you paint. It doesn't really matter if one artist thinks Ultramarine is cool and another warm as long as they can mix the right color/value for that painting.
+Darren P. Thanks for the comment. I'm so glad you found the video helpful! I am definitely going to continue to create new videos. I've just been busy with a big project the last two weeks. :)
I am new to color mixing. I took notes. However, I thought that the cadmium lemon + quinacridone rose made a deeper orange than the mixture of cadmium yellow deep + cadmium red light. Maybe it was just the lighting. I still have a lot to learn, especially about “seeing” violet and yellow in colors to help me determine if they are warm or cool.
Yes, the colors on the video aren't that accurate. to be honest. The Cad Lemon + Quinacridone orange is "deeper" in the sense it has a lower value but the saturation (chroma) is less becuase the quinacridone is a violet red. The other orange was much purer and bright in terms of its color. Thanks for watching! :)
That's an excellent comparison! Yes, there are a lot of colors out there to choose from. It can be a challenge for new artists to choose what they need, so I'm glad my videos are helpful. Thanks! :)
I have literally never heard of ultramarine being considered a cool blue. It must come down to how people perceive them like you mentioned. How I look at it is that ultramarine mixes warm colors - warm greens and warm purples. Phthalo blue (green shade) mixes cool greens and cool purples. Therefore I definitely consider ultramarine warm and phthalo blue cool. Phthalo blue (red shade) on the other hand could be considered warm since has a similar tone to ultramarine. Would you consider the phthalo blue red shade a cool color?
Thanks for a great comment! Yes, it has a lot to do with your own perception and how you see and use color. There is no one objective answer. Personally, yes, I would consider Phthalo Blue Red Shade to be cooler than Phthalo Blue Green Shade, but warmer than Ultramarine. I can see both sides of the argument.
In Liquid Color no ultramarine makes a cooler blue since it has a purpler tone, pthalo Blue has a bit of yellow, which is warmer than Quinacradpne rose.
Have you tried any of the colors from Geneva? Right now, my palette consists of Lukas 1862 Ultramarine, Gamblin Manganese Blue Hue (looking into getting some genuine barium manganate so I can grind my own PB33), Quinacrodone Magenta PR122, and Strontium Yellow. I can get a really deep range of colors from those alone, but I would like a rich red for mixing oranges and certain shades of purples (I also generally prefer the traditional RBY palette for mixing "dirty" colors). I've thought of trying Cad Red Light or Pyrrole Red, but they seem too bright for what I'm looking for. Geneva's red, PR 264 "Pyrrole Rubine," is beautiful, but I'm not sure I'm ready to drop $58 on a nice red...
Thanks for watching! Great question. Cadmium Red Light is a wonderful rich color, but it won't give you good purples since it tends towards the warm (orangey) side. Pyrrole Rubine is very dark, and is a near clone of Alizarin Crimson. So it will give good purples, but less saturated oranges. I have never tried Geneva so I can't attest to their quality, but I do know that Rembrandt's "Permanent Madder Deep" is actually Pyrrole Rubine (PR264) and less expensive. You might actually do OK with the Pyrrol Red (PR254) since it is a pretty neutral red, or maybe Perylene Red (PR149) which Gamblin sells. You can always try a small tube of each to see what you like before investing in large tubes. :)
@@walcottfineart5088 Thanks for the reply! I picked up a tube of W&N Pyrrole Red (PR254, they call it "Bright Red") for $5 last week, and I actually love it very much; I can mix a dead-on Alizarin Crimson shade with the PR122, which kind of signals to me that I really might not need another red on my palette
You will get brown/neutral tones from a mix with all three primaries in it. Try mixing some orange and then add a little blue to it, just a touch and it should go brownish. And there's nothing wrong with adding burnt sienna and burnt umber to this split primary palette for convenience :) Thanks for watching!
Can this explain anything about why we might percieve something as more warm than cool? Violet 380-450 nm 668-789 THz Blue 450-495 nm 606-668 THz Green 495-570 nm 526-606 THz Yellow 570-590 nm 508-526 THz
As you said at the start: any red will be warmer than the warmest blue.. the question about whether ultramarine or pthalo is warmer can be looked at as is the yellow present in pthalo warmer than the red present in ultramarine. Now taking what you said about red, I would say that red is warmer than yellow in general and therefore, ultramarine is warmer. Also.. you say that Ultramarinegoes towards the cooler side of the wheel... but, does that mean the wheel goes from getting cooler (at violet) to immediately becoming the warmest possible (at red) ?
Thanks for the great comment! I have thought about that exact way of looking at it myself, but came to the conclusion that yellow is warmer than red and therefore to me Phthalo Blue is warm. LOL The important thing to remember with art is that warm and cool is relative. Painting is a series of relationships so as long as you keep that in balance, the temperature of an individual color by itself isn't all that important. Thanks for watching! :)
Walcott Fine Art oh I see ! See I just thought of red as the warmer because if I was making an orange from red and yellow, I don’t think I’d ever add more yellow to make it warmer. Clearly this is just a personal thing
BTW, Blue Ridge sells two types of Thalo Blue: RS (Red Shade)pBlue 15:1warm and Thalo Blue GS (Green Shade) pBlue 15:3 cool. I got the Thalo Blue RS , I already have Blue Ridge Ultramarine Blue: p Blue 29, which Eric Silver describes as warm?? We'll have to see when my thalo RS arrives what it does.
Jason, I noticed that two of the colors that you mentioned in your previous 'true primaries' video are not included in this 'split primaries' group (namely Quin. magenta and cobalt teal). For beginners just starting out in oils, would you recommend just using the true primaries or this split primary palette? Thanks!
Yes I would start as a beginner with the split primary palette. Actually I think Quinacridone Magenta could be the cool red in that split primary. Either that or the Rose shown in the video is fine. The "true primary" three colors, was really just for demonstrating color theory. It would be hard to actually use it as a normal palette of colors for painting. :)
I noticed in your previous True Primaries video you were using Quin Magenta as your cool red and here it is Quin Rose. What, if any would you say, are the mixing differences in these 2 colors? Does one mix better violets, or the other better oranges? I know I should probably just conduct my own experiments and mix up some batches myself, but I still wanted your opinion. Thank you!
Thanks for a great question Sharon! If you are only using three primaries then you'll get better violets with Quin. Magenta and better oranges with Quin Rose. Quin. Magenta is slightly cooler and a hair more pink than Quin. Rose. Quin. Magenta (PR 122) Is what is actually used as Process Magenta in CMYK color printing. I used Quin. Rose as a cool red in the second video because it's a bit more common in oil paint lines. It's really up to the individual to decide which they like best. That's why the Split Primary can be a better system, because you have a larger color range you can get. To do your own testing IS actually the best way to decide! :) I definitely encourage everyone to do that.
Thanks for watching! Yes, you can certianly use a limited palette of these colors a maybe two or three others... Most artists arrange the colors in their own way. Some light to dark, others warm to cool. There is no right way to do it...whatever works best for you. :)
Every time I get a smear of paint on my hand or shirt it's ALWAYS Phthalo Blue! Murphy's Law right? LOL :) Using a barrier cream like Gloves in a Bottle really helps with washing it off.
I tend to avoid the warm/cool by simply assigning the bias. I.e ultramarine has the violet or red bias....rather than debate warm or cool. Those categories are best left to general hue families where those distinctions work.
Good idea! I agree with you. Your way is probably more in line with what artists are actually doing when color mixing becomes intuitive. I've noticed people tend to get very emotional about whether a color is warm or cool. LOL Thanks for watching!
As I am very much a beginner...is it easier for me to set up by *warm* and *cool* pallet of my likes while I am learning about each individual pigment? IOW, will I be able to set my pallet up faster and get going by following a split primary template or would I be able to learn the biases of each individual and each mixed pigment just as quickly? I am so sorry this is likely clear as mud so I will try to rephrase is needed! LOL I just want to set it up and get going as fast as possible to start learning :)
@@watercolorseasons5321 Thanks for watching and great question! You may set up your pallete any way that works best for you as there is no "right" way. Grouping warm and cool together is a great way to go. The important thing is, once you find a way you like, then always stick with it and keep your colors in the same place. This will help your mixing become much faster and second nature. :)
@@walcottfineart5088 Thank you! One last ?. I am a mixed media/textile/fabric want to be artist lol and have been using the ROYGBV then browns and grays order for years. Is there a good reason that I would want to set up my pallet in the color wheel fashion which is different? Would I learn something important setting it up following say, Jane Blundell rather than the ROYGBV order....even though I would know where my colors are from the get go by habit if I use the rainbow order? Thank you again! I have chosen my pallet colors so setting it up is the final must do :) You ARE AMAZING! I will be watchin your videos daily and I have started sharing each one I watch LOL You have your own folder in my save files! :D
@@watercolorseasons5321 Thanks so much for the kind words! If your palette works for you as it is, there is no reason to change it. There is no one right way to do it, and it sounds like you are already comfortable with the order of the colors you use! :)
Thanks for watching! Quinacridone is the chemical name for the pigment, but it is sometimes also called "Permanent Rose" or "Primary Red" depending on the brand. Quinacridone reds/magentas tend to be much more saturated whereas Alizarin Crimson has a bit of a natural brownish dullness to it. Genuine Aliz. Crim. is very prone to fading though. The best one for one substitue I've found is the Rembrandt brand color called "Permanent Madder Deep". But it's easy to make that brownish tone with a Quinacridone red by mixing a tiny touch of Burnt Sienna into it. :)
Cobalt Teal is actually closer to a true cyan which would be the single "blue primary". A split primary means you have a warm and cool version of each primary color, hence the Phthalo and Ultramarine. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching! Yes, Phthalo is the same as Thalo. It also goes by a lot of other names like Winsor Blue, etc. The best way to make sure is to look for the pigment index number on the tube. For Phthalo Blue it is PB15 or PB 15:3.
I always thought Ultramarine was the warm blue because it has a little red in it_but seeing the two blues on your palette mixed with white and the winter vs tropical comparison I have reversed my opinion...Thanks again, this is really basic stuff boy do I feel dumb:)
Please don't feel dumb! There are really no right answers in art. While I do feel that Ultramarine is cool, and Phthalo warm, it really depends on the artist and how they use color. Thanks for watching!
Walcott Fine Art Neither are there wrong answers , I mixed orange and cyan, I get purple, why? Paints are weird like Perylene Red and Ultramarine Blue mixed with Pyrrol Orange makes brighter violet/purples than you think it would! Ultramarine Violet and Nickel Azo Yellow are Colors that make black instead of yellow, that’s because violet and yellow make black! So the best way to mixing Colors is to mix your paints frequently! Cad Red Lt. and Ultramarine Blue are still red and blue but they are secondaries, cmy palette is basically a split primary palette with a second yellow and a Violety or cooler blue since violet is cooler than orange and green! but warmer than blue! but green is much warmer than blue than purple, So the true palette is Quinacridone Rose, Phthalocyanine Blue, Cad Yellow Lt. (a warm yellow), and Cad Red Lt. , Ultramarine Violet, Phthalocyanine Green
To everyone arguing about “temperature”: I have come to the conclusion that “temperature” of color-as it is being taught-as a basic theoretical teaching tool, should be discarded. It is confusing for many and inaccurate. It is naturally innate to us and completely relative to situations and it would be best-if even necessary to be taught at all to us beginners-to leave it stated in general: When considering color temperature think time of day, season of the year, light vs shadow, type of light source, etc. Gather references and study your subject. Paint what YOU SEE and/or FEEL. The “temperature” will take care of itself especially if other basic theory is taught and honed with experience through experiments. The real battle-and thus confusion-over temperature lay’s within mostly the Red to Blue Violet arena. Two theoretical problems arise here thus telling us that NO ONE can claim an indisputable law on the subject of warm/cool: 1. Red light waves hit our eyes with every color. Does this then mean that all color is “warm”? 2. Violet light waves transition from and to the Ultra Violet spectrum and Red light waves do this at the Infra Red spectrum and these are the beginnings and ends of our visible spectrum. Thus we enter and leave in color blindness area’s and when mixing these together how can we thus say for sure what is happening here? Here is a third problem in human experience and color theory: Lightness/Brightness vs Darkness/Dullness. In GENERAL the former brings warm associations and the latter cool associations but we find that a color can be both warm and cool ACHROMATICALLY and be modified naturally and this is why we should say “in GENERAL”, e.g. Winter scene in daylight. “White” takes on a dual role both warm and cold as does black because of all of the shades. But W&B can also be cool and warm respectively because W tends to reflect more waves and remain cooler than black because black tends to absorb rays and heat up. This is the same for ALL HUE’S. And with the theory of DC’s I can cool down ice even further by applying fire to it-blue and orange and vis-a-vie. NOW can we see the PROBLEM with defining color absolutely by TEMPERATURE? It is better to teach underlying bias and Value/Chroma at ALL TRIADIC POINTS (hue is “primary” at all Triadic points of the wheel in a subtractive system as well as in an additive system) coupled with substance uncertainty theory (such as V49 mixed with G50 should produce a low Value/chroma Violet according to bias and distance apart theory but it produces a high Value/low chroma Violet). Therefore, general theory (without temperature arguments-which is advanced and is being misused to teach what amounts to Bias theory), coupled with experience and charting with notes, is what should be taught in basics HARD CORE. Leave the advanced topics for later. My personal way of dividing the color wheel and teaching it-if I must according to “temperature”-is dividing it straight down the middle dividing Yellow and Violet with yellow at the top and violet at the bottom, left side warm and right side cool, light to dark. All else is relative and I do find that Ultramarine is “cooler” than Phthalo side by side with value/chroma equal in look, feel, and theory. May the yellow sunshine brighten and warm your day in a bright and cold winter and may the reds through yellow’s of your fire place warm you during your cold winters night and may you find peace among us over color and temperature. HAPPY NEW YEAR!
Thanks for watching and for such a well thought out, informative comment! I agree that artists shouldn't get hung up on "rules" too much. Just paint what you see and let it be intuitive. While guidelines and color theory can help beginners, it shouldn't be a rigid system.
@@walcottfineart5088 I love what you just said :) It is ironic to me that of all people...some...some...artists find it necessary that we should *follow rules explicitly*...LOL Artists to me by nature ... should, of all people, be able to express themselves *freely* as they see without concern for rules of theory :D Yes, we need to learn theory especially if we want to learn how to mix colors without creating the most unusual colors of weird*browns*, but after that, I want to be free to color any way I want, even if I want to make *mud* LOL
Interesting video. As an engineer and an artist, I feel the split primary is redundant. I can see that the intent for it is to have more range of colors. But that's six tubes of paint just to have an almost full range of hues. Why not go direct: yellow, vermilion, magenta, purple, blue, green for example?
Thanks for watching! You can paint with just those colors you listed....some artists do. But I think the split primary palette helps break it down in a more logical way for people, especially beginners.
Can see your logic on the blues but will never be able to think of them that way round as green is cooler than purple to me… and F. Ultramarine leans to purple and Phthalo leans to green
I agree, it's really a matter of opinion and there will never be a right answer! The main thing is to learn which blue to use in the right circumstance. Thanks for watching! :)
I would consider green to be warmer than violet. Green is sort of strange as it can be somewhat neutral in temperature depending on the shade. Thanks for watching! :)
It depends on who you talk to! LOL I consider Ultramarine to be a cool blue not warm. The important thing is to understand the color's bias. If both the red and the blue lean towards violet they will make a good clean violet when mixed, regardless of what we call them. Warm and cool are sort of arbitrary terms. Thanks for watching! :)
The Purple and Green areas of the color wheel are the most existentially confusing to me when it comes to cool vs warm. Both equidistant from absolute freezing (cyan) and sweltering (orange). They are neither hot nor cold, yet both at the same time, room temperature, if you will. "Thalo green yellowish is warmer than purple, i mean look at this color and tell me it looks cold." "True, but technically the red in Manganese Violet is closer to orange than the lemon yellow in thalo green yellowish so theres an arguement to be made that purple is warmer than green." Both are right, both are wrong, as the green's yellow and purple's red could both be equidistant from orange, bringing the debate to a stalemate. The arguement could continue ad-infinitum; even without an astronomer subverting the whole debate by talking about the color and temperature of stars in the cosmos whose temperatures are hotter the more cold the color is and colder the more hot the color is.
You are so right! Color temperature is all relative. Artists get hung up too much on the minutiae of it when just learning to compare the relationships is what matters most. I think what causes the issue is that of the three primary colors two are warm and one is cool so it is unequally balanced right from the start. Thanks for watching! :)
Yes, and I am still having problems deciding if ultramarine is warmer or cooler than cobolt blue. In a blue sky I often use ultramarine (and some other colors) in the higher parts, and cobolt blue/teal ( often mixed with a flesh tint color) over the horizon. The outermost zone of a burning candle is the hottest among all zones and is blue in color, and this is due to complete combustion. It is the non-luminous part of the flame. We tend to see the sun as yellowish because the atmosphere scatters blue light, but if you look at the Sun from outside the Earth's atmosphere it looks white. I don`t know if this has any significance when it comes to our understanding about which blue colors are more cool or warm than others, but there has to be a more objective truth to this question. What do you think?
@@eleojay401 Well, in your sky painting that would mean you are subconsciously using Ultramarine as a cool blue. Since the sky gets warmer near the horizon you are moving the blues there ever so slightly towards green. Cobalt is actually a pretty neutral blue so I would say it's warmer than Ultramarine by a tiny bit. Color relating to temperature as far as science goes, like the flame you mentioned and the sun, doesn't relate to art that much since we psychologically associate reds and yellow with warmth and blues with cold. Color theory in painting is based on that and not the true nature of color & temperature so you don't need to worry about it. :) Hope that helps.
Been watching you for 5 days on color-I must have at least 30 pages of notes on stuff I NEVER LEARNED in college art classes. I'm like a sponge, LOL Thank you SO MUCH for your wonderful, well made videos and clear teaching style, you ROCK Jason!
any other TH-cam channels this valuable relating to art?
Thanks for this, recently I’ve see TH-cam artists and read literature from Schmincke ,claiming Ultramarine blue was warm and Phthalo blue was cool. I almost lost my mind believing I had got this wrong for over a decade. Your explanation makes perfect sense and confirms my original instruction on this matter.
I think artists will probably always argue over the Ultramarine warm/cool thing! LOL Thanks for watching :)
I hear split primaries being mentioned but nobody really explains it, although it’s fairly obvious this was a good breakdown of the idea, and it’s 7 years old. First of your videos I have stumbled upon.
I decided I’m better off starting out (after using WAY too many colours for a while now) with a very limited palette of 3 single pigment colours, burnt umber and white. It is so much simpler to work with even if I can’t pull off every single colour match exactly. Working hard on values anyway.
I'm glad you found the video helpful! Thanks for watching :)
So glad you raised the blue debate - That was always a psychological dilemma for me. As an artist I always new phthalo blue / cyan were the cool blues... but in my head they always "felt warm". Is that the Sunny days spent splashing around in the pool as a kid - I don't know.
Thanks for watching! :)
So , are you saying cyan is a cool color?
i am very impressed with how you explain color mixing and the difference in cobalt blue verses ultramarine. The color wheel instruction was fantastic.
Thanks so much for the nice comment! I'm glad you found the video helpful. :)
That was one of the best explanations of basic color mixing and the warm and cool differences. Thank you.
Thanks so much for watching and for the nice comment!
Brilliant explanation of split primaries , thank you so much . 8:24
I'm so glad you enoyed the video! Thanks for watching :)
Great explaination and demo Jason...so many will still think ultramarine is cool. I think the confusion comes in is due to.. French ultramarine is frequently used for its depth of hue. But apply a thin glaze of this blue and it will appear slightly violet. Thus the violet is where it confuses many...
ultramarine is a warm blue as it is slightly biased towards red. You really explained this topic very clear and mixing the colors...helped a lot with the other colors....thanks so much. Valuable info...
Your color theory/ mixing tutorials are excellent. You’re a natural born instructor. Somehow you make this incredibly interesting 😊😊. Ty for putting out such quality tutorials. They’ve helped me immensely.
Wow, thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed it. :)
I watched many videos of yours and was so helpful for me. I loved the explanations in this video. It's make mixing the colours more easily to find the needed colour and to love the mixing more too 😄
Thank you so much 🌹
I'm so glad you found my video helpful! Thanks for the nice comment and for watching :)
I’m a big fan of the split primary palette. Interesting to see/hear another’s take a it. Cheers Jason.
Also digging the chilled vibes you had playing in the background...
Thanks for watching! Glad you enjoyed it. :)
You are such a good teacher! Thank you so much.
I'm so glad you found the video useful! Thanks for watching :)
Ok. I think I've just learned more about colour mixing in this 10 minute video than in the last year I have spent oil painting. Thankyou Jason. Very informative.
Wow thanks for such a nice comment! I'm glad you enjoyed the video :)
Hi Jason, your videos on colors are gems! Expecially this one: now color mixing is all clear (or....colorfully clear). You explain concepts so well! Thsnk you!
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. :)
Fantastic idea.....split primary.....! I agree on the ultramarine being cool instead of warm: I suppose it is considered warm on the assumption that it is nearer to red on the wheel than phtalo blue but that does not mean anything: even reds can be warm or cool, so maybe it has got to due with relating the color red with fire, which is warm and that leads to the assumption that ultramarine is warm.
Yes, the Ultramarine "warm or cool" argument is very dependent on how the artist uses it. Thanks for watching and for the great comment! :)
Thanks for bringing up the which blue is cooler question. I'm actually with robert gamblin (color man for his paint brand, and a good painter of course) and others considering the opposite to be our pick- thalo blue cool, ultra.blue warm. Landscape painters often pick your choice probably due to the yellow of sunlight is the warming factor which makes sense... maybe it's a video topic for me to do "which blue is cooler" to say why my pick, it doesn't really matter which blue although warm and cool theory is still very very important, anyway well done video "dude" i did the same one, practically, once but maybe wasn't so clearly explained took it down.
Hi Peter and thanks for the great comment! You're right that it depends on the style you work in as well as personal color perception as to which is which. Neither one is wrong or right. It's definitely a great topic for a future more in-depth video. :) Glad you enjoyed it.
All blue colours are cool. Some are cooler than others.
It's a bit of an oxymoron to argue about warm vs cool blues. Our psychological perception depends on many factors ( tinting strength , relation with other nearby colours etc).
In a simple desert landscape, with a pale ochre sand on the lower side and a blue sky above, phthalo plus a little white looks more sunny , while ultramarine plus white feels more like a cloudy day..( given a similar value for both ). I think that I agree with this video, that considers ultramarine on the cooler side of blues..
I recently discovered the violet thing after someone gave me a tube of magenta and a tube of cyan. It was so much brighter and striking than the ultramarine/red mix. I couldn't figure it out, but now it all makes sense! Thank you. I love your videos. On another note, I notice you sometimes complain that the true colour doesn't show on camera. You should do a white balance before you put your paint down.
Thanks for watching! I actually did try the white balance but my camera is so crappy it didn't work LOL. Maybe someday I'll get a better one! :)
Great job ....love your videos
you are so good at teaching and explaining , love your videos
Thanks for the nice comment and for watching! :)
This is a very helpful way to mix colors. I will remember it.
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you found the video useful. :)
Thanks for sharing. You are a rock star!
Thanks for watching! :)
Me ha resultado muy interesante, muchas gracias
De nada! Thanks for watching :)
Thanks for your terrific informative videos. On the subject of a warm and cool blue, the opposite problem actually exists for orange, but we rarely discuss this because a cool orange is not often considered. Colours can only "lean" towards a contiguous colour or adjacent colour on the wheel, if they lean any further than that then they've really moved into the next colour frequency. So the ultramarine/phthalo debate becomes a debate about which is warmer, purple or green, the answer is neither. It all comes down to subjectivity or context, you can't talk about blues being warm or cool in absolute terms, they're only cool or warm in relative terms. The temperature of blue is dependent on which other colours are juxtaposed with it. Because blue sits smack between two cool colours on the colour wheel, purple and green, therefore any variant of blue can only "lean" towards a cool colour, either purple/violet (cool) or green (cool). Blue can't lean towards a warm green because it sits on the cool side of green. Equally with warm purple because it's on the cool side of purple. If it leans across the wheel instead of contiguously, then it enters the realm of greys or colour mixes and is no longer a true blue. Therefore when viewed on their own all blues are cool, just as all oranges are warm. Blue can only truly appear cool or warm in context with other colours. The same is not true for red for example, because red borders with both a cool (purple) and warm (orange) so it can literally lean towards cool or warm. etc etc.
Thanks for watching and for a great comment! I think you touched on the heart of the matter which is that it is really subjective to what how you paint. It doesn't really matter if one artist thinks Ultramarine is cool and another warm as long as they can mix the right color/value for that painting.
Fantastic thank you so much!!!
I can't leave without thanking you! Thank you so much!
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching! :)
Hi Jason, thanks for the great videos. I'm new to oil painting and learned a lot from you already. I sure hope you continue! :)
+Darren P. Thanks for the comment. I'm so glad you found the video helpful! I am definitely going to continue to create new videos. I've just been busy with a big project the last two weeks. :)
I am new to color mixing. I took notes. However, I thought that the cadmium lemon + quinacridone rose made a deeper orange than the mixture of cadmium yellow deep + cadmium red light. Maybe it was just the lighting. I still have a lot to learn, especially about “seeing” violet and yellow in colors to help me determine if they are warm or cool.
Yes, the colors on the video aren't that accurate. to be honest. The Cad Lemon + Quinacridone orange is "deeper" in the sense it has a lower value but the saturation (chroma) is less becuase the quinacridone is a violet red. The other orange was much purer and bright in terms of its color. Thanks for watching! :)
Your vids are always helpful. There seems to be so many colors available, to me it's like trying to keep track of the actors in a soap opera.
That's an excellent comparison! Yes, there are a lot of colors out there to choose from. It can be a challenge for new artists to choose what they need, so I'm glad my videos are helpful. Thanks! :)
Super cool ❤❤❤❤
Well explained and illustrated
I have literally never heard of ultramarine being considered a cool blue. It must come down to how people perceive them like you mentioned. How I look at it is that ultramarine mixes warm colors - warm greens and warm purples. Phthalo blue (green shade) mixes cool greens and cool purples. Therefore I definitely consider ultramarine warm and phthalo blue cool. Phthalo blue (red shade) on the other hand could be considered warm since has a similar tone to ultramarine. Would you consider the phthalo blue red shade a cool color?
Thanks for a great comment! Yes, it has a lot to do with your own perception and how you see and use color. There is no one objective answer. Personally, yes, I would consider Phthalo Blue Red Shade to be cooler than Phthalo Blue Green Shade, but warmer than Ultramarine. I can see both sides of the argument.
Just saw this comment! Thanks for watching and yes you are right about "cooler" colors being given off by hotter objects. :)
In Liquid Color Interesting especially when one considers that in general Ultramarine makes duller/darker and thus cooler greens...
In Liquid Color no ultramarine makes a cooler blue since it has a purpler tone, pthalo Blue has a bit of yellow, which is warmer than Quinacradpne rose.
In Liquid Color Personally, I agree with you entirely.
Have you tried any of the colors from Geneva? Right now, my palette consists of Lukas 1862 Ultramarine, Gamblin Manganese Blue Hue (looking into getting some genuine barium manganate so I can grind my own PB33), Quinacrodone Magenta PR122, and Strontium Yellow. I can get a really deep range of colors from those alone, but I would like a rich red for mixing oranges and certain shades of purples (I also generally prefer the traditional RBY palette for mixing "dirty" colors). I've thought of trying Cad Red Light or Pyrrole Red, but they seem too bright for what I'm looking for. Geneva's red, PR 264 "Pyrrole Rubine," is beautiful, but I'm not sure I'm ready to drop $58 on a nice red...
Thanks for watching! Great question. Cadmium Red Light is a wonderful rich color, but it won't give you good purples since it tends towards the warm (orangey) side. Pyrrole Rubine is very dark, and is a near clone of Alizarin Crimson. So it will give good purples, but less saturated oranges. I have never tried Geneva so I can't attest to their quality, but I do know that Rembrandt's "Permanent Madder Deep" is actually Pyrrole Rubine (PR264) and less expensive. You might actually do OK with the Pyrrol Red (PR254) since it is a pretty neutral red, or maybe Perylene Red (PR149) which Gamblin sells. You can always try a small tube of each to see what you like before investing in large tubes. :)
@@walcottfineart5088 Thanks for the reply! I picked up a tube of W&N Pyrrole Red (PR254, they call it "Bright Red") for $5 last week, and I actually love it very much; I can mix a dead-on Alizarin Crimson shade with the PR122, which kind of signals to me that I really might not need another red on my palette
@@robertrosenfeld7458 Awesome! Sounds like you're good to go :)
Your videos are so useful, entertaining and well done!
Thanks so much for watching! I'm glad you enjoyed it. :)
Watched this many times and that is what I want to go with been using too many colors and gets confusing. What would make a good brown earth tone? 😎😎
You will get brown/neutral tones from a mix with all three primaries in it. Try mixing some orange and then add a little blue to it, just a touch and it should go brownish. And there's nothing wrong with adding burnt sienna and burnt umber to this split primary palette for convenience :) Thanks for watching!
Can this explain anything about why we might percieve something as more warm than cool?
Violet 380-450 nm 668-789 THz
Blue 450-495 nm 606-668 THz
Green 495-570 nm 526-606 THz
Yellow 570-590 nm 508-526 THz
Thanks for watching! I think color theory in art is based solely on psychological perception of color...not the scientific wavelengths of light.
Yes, I think you are right about that.
Thanks 😊
Awesome lesson. Learnt so much from this
Thanks for watching!
As you said at the start: any red will be warmer than the warmest blue.. the question about whether ultramarine or pthalo is warmer can be looked at as is the yellow present in pthalo warmer than the red present in ultramarine.
Now taking what you said about red, I would say that red is warmer than yellow in general and therefore, ultramarine is warmer. Also.. you say that Ultramarinegoes towards the cooler side of the wheel... but, does that mean the wheel goes from getting cooler (at violet) to immediately becoming the warmest possible (at red) ?
Thanks for the great comment! I have thought about that exact way of looking at it myself, but came to the conclusion that yellow is warmer than red and therefore to me Phthalo Blue is warm. LOL The important thing to remember with art is that warm and cool is relative. Painting is a series of relationships so as long as you keep that in balance, the temperature of an individual color by itself isn't all that important. Thanks for watching! :)
Walcott Fine Art oh I see ! See I just thought of red as the warmer because if I was making an orange from red and yellow, I don’t think I’d ever add more yellow to make it warmer. Clearly this is just a personal thing
Great video, thank you
Thanks for watching! :)
Very useful, thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you. Video is very helpful 👍🏻
Thanks for watching and for the comment! :)
BTW, Blue Ridge sells two types of Thalo Blue: RS (Red Shade)pBlue 15:1warm and Thalo Blue GS (Green Shade) pBlue 15:3 cool. I got the Thalo Blue RS , I already have Blue Ridge Ultramarine Blue: p Blue 29, which Eric Silver describes as warm?? We'll have to see when my thalo RS arrives what it does.
So we would get the thalo blue (GS) to make vibrant greens and use the ultramarine to get more vibrant purples.. right?
Yes! That is correct. In fact I did a more in depth demo of the color mixing on my recent video about Limited Palettes. Thanks for watching! :)
Nvm, you answered it. Did you flip the ultramarine and phthalo for warm and cool blues? I thought ultramarine is warm and phthalo cool 😮
Thanks
Jason, I noticed that two of the colors that you mentioned in your previous 'true primaries' video are not included in this 'split primaries' group (namely Quin. magenta and cobalt teal). For beginners just starting out in oils, would you recommend just using the true primaries or this split primary palette? Thanks!
Yes I would start as a beginner with the split primary palette. Actually I think Quinacridone Magenta could be the cool red in that split primary. Either that or the Rose shown in the video is fine. The "true primary" three colors, was really just for demonstrating color theory. It would be hard to actually use it as a normal palette of colors for painting. :)
This is really cool man
Thanks for watching :)
I noticed in your previous True Primaries video you were using Quin Magenta as your cool red and here it is Quin Rose. What, if any would you say, are the mixing differences in these 2 colors? Does one mix better violets, or the other better oranges? I know I should probably just conduct my own experiments and mix up some batches myself, but I still wanted your opinion. Thank you!
Thanks for a great question Sharon! If you are only using three primaries then you'll get better violets with Quin. Magenta and better oranges with Quin Rose. Quin. Magenta is slightly cooler and a hair more pink than Quin. Rose. Quin. Magenta (PR 122) Is what is actually used as Process Magenta in CMYK color printing. I used Quin. Rose as a cool red in the second video because it's a bit more common in oil paint lines. It's really up to the individual to decide which they like best. That's why the Split Primary can be a better system, because you have a larger color range you can get. To do your own testing IS actually the best way to decide! :) I definitely encourage everyone to do that.
awesome stuff here thank you
I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching! :)
How would you arrange these colors on your palette? It seems you'd need only these plus white and a few earth colors.
Thanks for watching! Yes, you can certianly use a limited palette of these colors a maybe two or three others... Most artists arrange the colors in their own way. Some light to dark, others warm to cool. There is no right way to do it...whatever works best for you. :)
Pthalo blue,man I get that stuff all over me when I paint.
Every time I get a smear of paint on my hand or shirt it's ALWAYS Phthalo Blue! Murphy's Law right? LOL :) Using a barrier cream like Gloves in a Bottle really helps with washing it off.
I tend to avoid the warm/cool by simply assigning the bias. I.e ultramarine has the violet or red bias....rather than debate warm or cool. Those categories are best left to general hue families where those distinctions work.
Good idea! I agree with you. Your way is probably more in line with what artists are actually doing when color mixing becomes intuitive. I've noticed people tend to get very emotional about whether a color is warm or cool. LOL Thanks for watching!
As I am very much a beginner...is it easier for me to set up by *warm* and *cool* pallet of my likes while I am learning about each individual pigment? IOW, will I be able to set my pallet up faster and get going by following a split primary template or would I be able to learn the biases of each individual and each mixed pigment just as quickly? I am so sorry this is likely clear as mud so I will try to rephrase is needed! LOL I just want to set it up and get going as fast as possible to start learning :)
@@watercolorseasons5321 Thanks for watching and great question! You may set up your pallete any way that works best for you as there is no "right" way. Grouping warm and cool together is a great way to go. The important thing is, once you find a way you like, then always stick with it and keep your colors in the same place. This will help your mixing become much faster and second nature. :)
@@walcottfineart5088 Thank you! One last ?. I am a mixed media/textile/fabric want to be artist lol and have been using the ROYGBV then browns and grays order for years. Is there a good reason that I would want to set up my pallet in the color wheel fashion which is different?
Would I learn something important setting it up following say, Jane Blundell rather than the ROYGBV order....even though I would know where my colors are from the get go by habit if I use the rainbow order?
Thank you again! I have chosen my pallet colors so setting it up is the final must do :)
You ARE AMAZING! I will be watchin your videos daily and I have started sharing each one I watch LOL You have your own folder in my save files! :D
@@watercolorseasons5321 Thanks so much for the kind words! If your palette works for you as it is, there is no reason to change it. There is no one right way to do it, and it sounds like you are already comfortable with the order of the colors you use! :)
awesome videos...thank you
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. :)
I have never heard of Quinacridone. How does Alizarin Crimson differ?
Thanks for watching! Quinacridone is the chemical name for the pigment, but it is sometimes also called "Permanent Rose" or "Primary Red" depending on the brand. Quinacridone reds/magentas tend to be much more saturated whereas Alizarin Crimson has a bit of a natural brownish dullness to it. Genuine Aliz. Crim. is very prone to fading though. The best one for one substitue I've found is the Rembrandt brand color called "Permanent Madder Deep". But it's easy to make that brownish tone with a Quinacridone red by mixing a tiny touch of Burnt Sienna into it. :)
Why did cobalt teal became pthalo blue in this video?
Cobalt Teal is actually closer to a true cyan which would be the single "blue primary". A split primary means you have a warm and cool version of each primary color, hence the Phthalo and Ultramarine. Thanks for watching!
Jason, is Phthalo blue the same as Thalos blue ? Love your lessons; and thank you, much appriciated.
Thanks for watching! Yes, Phthalo is the same as Thalo. It also goes by a lot of other names like Winsor Blue, etc. The best way to make sure is to look for the pigment index number on the tube. For Phthalo Blue it is PB15 or PB 15:3.
Thank you, it has been very inspiring!
Thanks for watching! :)
Great video 😊
+Fifi Onafuwa Thank you! I'm so glad you enjoyed it. :)
Great video
Thanks for watching! :)
I always thought Ultramarine was the warm blue because it has a little red in it_but seeing the two blues on your palette mixed with white and the winter vs tropical comparison I have reversed my opinion...Thanks again, this is really basic stuff boy do I feel dumb:)
Please don't feel dumb! There are really no right answers in art. While I do feel that Ultramarine is cool, and Phthalo warm, it really depends on the artist and how they use color. Thanks for watching!
Walcott Fine Art Neither are there wrong answers , I mixed orange and cyan, I get purple, why? Paints are weird like Perylene Red and Ultramarine Blue mixed with Pyrrol Orange makes brighter violet/purples than you think it would! Ultramarine Violet and Nickel Azo Yellow are Colors that make black instead of yellow, that’s because violet and yellow make black! So the best way to mixing Colors is to mix your paints frequently!
Cad Red Lt. and Ultramarine Blue are still red and blue but they are secondaries, cmy palette is basically a split primary palette with a second yellow and a Violety or cooler blue since violet is cooler than orange and green! but warmer than blue! but green is much warmer than blue than purple, So the true palette is Quinacridone Rose, Phthalocyanine Blue, Cad Yellow Lt. (a warm yellow), and Cad Red Lt. , Ultramarine Violet, Phthalocyanine Green
The best thing is to make sure the colors you use work for you and your needs. Playing around is a great way to get to know what mixes you can get!
TYVM
To everyone arguing about “temperature”: I have come to the conclusion that “temperature” of color-as it is being taught-as a basic theoretical teaching tool, should be discarded. It is confusing for many and inaccurate. It is naturally innate to us and completely relative to situations and it would be best-if even necessary to be taught at all to us beginners-to leave it stated in general: When considering color temperature think time of day, season of the year, light vs shadow, type of light source, etc. Gather references and study your subject. Paint what YOU SEE and/or FEEL. The “temperature” will take care of itself especially if other basic theory is taught and honed with experience through experiments.
The real battle-and thus confusion-over temperature lay’s within mostly the Red to Blue Violet arena. Two theoretical problems arise here thus telling us that NO ONE can claim an indisputable law on the subject of warm/cool:
1. Red light waves hit our eyes with every color. Does this then mean that all color is “warm”?
2. Violet light waves transition from and to the Ultra Violet spectrum and Red light waves do this at the Infra Red spectrum and these are the beginnings and ends of our visible spectrum. Thus we enter and leave in color blindness area’s and when mixing these together how can we thus say for sure what is happening here?
Here is a third problem in human experience and color theory: Lightness/Brightness vs Darkness/Dullness. In GENERAL the former brings warm associations and the latter cool associations but we find that a color can be both warm and cool ACHROMATICALLY and be modified naturally and this is why we should say “in GENERAL”, e.g. Winter scene in daylight. “White” takes on a dual role both warm and cold as does black because of all of the shades. But W&B can also be cool and warm respectively because W tends to reflect more waves and remain cooler than black because black tends to absorb rays and heat up. This is the same for ALL HUE’S. And with the theory of DC’s I can cool down ice even further by applying fire to it-blue and orange and vis-a-vie. NOW can we see the PROBLEM with defining color absolutely by TEMPERATURE?
It is better to teach underlying bias and Value/Chroma at ALL TRIADIC POINTS (hue is “primary” at all Triadic points of the wheel in a subtractive system as well as in an additive system) coupled with substance uncertainty theory (such as V49 mixed with G50 should produce a low Value/chroma Violet according to bias and distance apart theory but it produces a high Value/low chroma Violet). Therefore, general theory (without temperature arguments-which is advanced and is being misused to teach what amounts to Bias theory), coupled with experience and charting with notes, is what should be taught in basics HARD CORE. Leave the advanced topics for later.
My personal way of dividing the color wheel and teaching it-if I must according to “temperature”-is dividing it straight down the middle dividing Yellow and Violet with yellow at the top and violet at the bottom, left side warm and right side cool, light to dark. All else is relative and I do find that Ultramarine is “cooler” than Phthalo side by side with value/chroma equal in look, feel, and theory.
May the yellow sunshine brighten and warm your day in a bright and cold winter and may the reds through yellow’s of your fire place warm you during your cold winters night and may you find peace among us over color and temperature. HAPPY NEW YEAR!
Thanks for watching and for such a well thought out, informative comment! I agree that artists shouldn't get hung up on "rules" too much. Just paint what you see and let it be intuitive. While guidelines and color theory can help beginners, it shouldn't be a rigid system.
@@walcottfineart5088 I love what you just said :) It is ironic to me that of all people...some...some...artists find it necessary that we should *follow rules explicitly*...LOL Artists to me by nature ... should, of all people, be able to express themselves *freely* as they see without concern for rules of theory :D Yes, we need to learn theory especially if we want to learn how to mix colors without creating the most unusual colors of weird*browns*, but after that, I want to be free to color any way I want, even if I want to make *mud* LOL
Interesting video. As an engineer and an artist, I feel the split primary is redundant. I can see that the intent for it is to have more range of colors. But that's six tubes of paint just to have an almost full range of hues. Why not go direct: yellow, vermilion, magenta, purple, blue, green for example?
Thanks for watching! You can paint with just those colors you listed....some artists do. But I think the split primary palette helps break it down in a more logical way for people, especially beginners.
I want to use a split primary cause im a beginner
What injury?
❤️👍
👍🏻👍🏻
do you draw portrait?
I am not really a portrait artist, I mostly do landscapes and still life. Thanks for watching!
👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿
Can see your logic on the blues but will never be able to think of them that way round as green is cooler than purple to me… and F. Ultramarine leans to purple and Phthalo leans to green
I agree, it's really a matter of opinion and there will never be a right answer! The main thing is to learn which blue to use in the right circumstance. Thanks for watching! :)
So helpful!
Thanks for the nice comment! I'm glad you found my video useful. :)
Green is cooler than violet, no?
I would consider green to be warmer than violet. Green is sort of strange as it can be somewhat neutral in temperature depending on the shade. Thanks for watching! :)
>uses the CYM wheel
This is a man I can trust.
LOL Thanks for watching! :)
Since Violet is in between red & blue it has to be Cool red & Warm Blue not Cool red & Cool blue.
It depends on who you talk to! LOL I consider Ultramarine to be a cool blue not warm. The important thing is to understand the color's bias. If both the red and the blue lean towards violet they will make a good clean violet when mixed, regardless of what we call them. Warm and cool are sort of arbitrary terms. Thanks for watching! :)
The Purple and Green areas of the color wheel are the most existentially confusing to me when it comes to cool vs warm. Both equidistant from absolute freezing (cyan) and sweltering (orange). They are neither hot nor cold, yet both at the same time, room temperature, if you will.
"Thalo green yellowish is warmer than purple, i mean look at this color and tell me it looks cold."
"True, but technically the red in Manganese Violet is closer to orange than the lemon yellow in thalo green yellowish so theres an arguement to be made that purple is warmer than green."
Both are right, both are wrong, as the green's yellow and purple's red could both be equidistant from orange, bringing the debate to a stalemate. The arguement could continue ad-infinitum; even without an astronomer subverting the whole debate by talking about the color and temperature of stars in the cosmos whose temperatures are hotter the more cold the color is and colder the more hot the color is.
You are so right! Color temperature is all relative. Artists get hung up too much on the minutiae of it when just learning to compare the relationships is what matters most. I think what causes the issue is that of the three primary colors two are warm and one is cool so it is unequally balanced right from the start. Thanks for watching! :)
@@walcottfineart5088 thanks for the reply btw!
Cesar Santos describes ultramarine blue as being a warm blue, not cool.
Yes, artists are divided on that issue...some will tell you Ultramarine is warm, others cool. It all depends on how you use it. Thanks for watching!
Yes, and I am still having problems deciding if ultramarine is warmer or cooler than cobolt blue. In a blue sky I often use ultramarine (and some other colors) in the higher parts, and cobolt blue/teal ( often mixed with a flesh tint color) over the horizon.
The outermost zone of a burning candle is the hottest among all zones and is blue in color, and this is due to complete combustion. It is the non-luminous part of the flame. We tend to see the sun as yellowish because the atmosphere scatters blue light, but if you look at the Sun from outside the Earth's atmosphere it looks white.
I don`t know if this has any significance when it comes to our understanding about which blue colors are more cool or warm than others, but there has to be a more objective truth to this question. What do you think?
@@eleojay401 Well, in your sky painting that would mean you are subconsciously using Ultramarine as a cool blue. Since the sky gets warmer near the horizon you are moving the blues there ever so slightly towards green. Cobalt is actually a pretty neutral blue so I would say it's warmer than Ultramarine by a tiny bit. Color relating to temperature as far as science goes, like the flame you mentioned and the sun, doesn't relate to art that much since we psychologically associate reds and yellow with warmth and blues with cold. Color theory in painting is based on that and not the true nature of color & temperature so you don't need to worry about it. :) Hope that helps.
Ok. Thanks.
Cesar Santos also likes Jordan Peterson, so ...
What happened to your face?
I was in an accident when I was four years old that caused some nerve damage on the left side. Thanks for watching!