I've had my patcher for about two years now. I did spend about a month cleaning, sanding, polishing, and learning its idiosyncrasies. But once the learning curve was over I've really enjoyed using it. I recently installed a servo motor, which works well, but I've been concerned about the arm bearings inside the flywheel. Happily, I ran across your website showing the replacement procedure, plus the link to Bantam's website where I just purchased the spare bearings and some other goodies. Thanks for sharing the information.
You are EXACTLY right! When you get one of these you have to be willing to put in the time to clean, sand, polish, etc and LEARN how they work. There is a super steep learning curve on these. If anyone thinks they are going to work well right out of the box, they are fooling themselves. But with some TIME and patience, they can become great additions to the shop. Better than dropping a grand on a "real" leather sewing machine. They are perfect for non-detail work. Thanks for watching and truly adding to the discussion. Stay well. Peace.
Your video was helpful to me because my Patchier arrived with a broken bearing. I have contacted Bantam to see if they still carry these since their website did not show them. Sure hope they do. Thanks for posting this video.
Their website is sketchy as heck. The image when you try to order the bearings is of "bobbins" not bearings (and you only get 2 instead of the 10 shown). But when I ordered them, everything turned out okay and they got to my house quick. Best of luck.
Ok, question... I didn't have broken bearing, but pulled the lower arm apart to clean the mill scale and nast off of everything. Put it back together and thread it up, everything seems to be running smooth...I go to out a first stitch thru a piece of leather and it makes less than a full rotation and locks up. It's like the machine won't turn that corner where the flywheel inside race turns to bring the bottom sliding gear rail back in the other direction. Just hits a wall. The needle had already pierced the work and bottomed out, everything just comes to a halt. Doesn't seem to be the top arm binding up or anything. Seems like the bobbin carrier is somehow bound up that quickly and stops the whole operation. How can the timing be that far off that quickly? Setting it up 11:00 crank handle to 3:00 on the little bobbin carrier thing. The hook seems to be catching the thread loop off the needle fine when run without any material but as soon as it's actually putting a stitch thru something, it binds up tighter than Dick's hatband. Ideas? Im about to put this damn thing thru the wall.
Not a bad idea to grab a scribe or a punch or something and making some witness marks before you remove that part for repair or cleaning, so you can easily get it back together at the correct adjustment so you don’t throw your timing off. Especially if you’re removing the rack that runs the bobbin at the same time. There’s a fair amount of adjustment in the slots where they bolt together and you can create some problems for yourself if you’re not intimately familiar with the machine. If you end up without any indication and don’t recall exactly where it should be adjusted, a good starting point is with the flywheel positioned for the maximum throw, the rack should just peek out the end of the arm. …at least that’s where mine is, I guess ya never know with the tolerances on these machines Anyway, sorry for rambling just thought I’d offer an idea that could save somebody a headache some time. Not that I’ve ever caused such a headache for myself, of course.
Thank you for taking the time to add this information to the discussion. I know people will find it useful. Once you get these machines dialed in correctly, they certainly do save a lot of time.
That is the main reason I got it (and the price). Wife said spend the money on an electronic one, but I wanted to see how much I'd actually use it and I wanted one I could work on if need be (learn more that way anyhow). I love the rugged "Cold War" aesthetic.
was wondering if a thrust bearing would be better for this application.
Not sure. Perhaps if you would find one the correct size it would be worth a try.
Did you locate a thrust bearing and was it usable
Did the thrust bearing work
Great job fixing it yourself. Being able to repair saves so much money and time
Love this little beast. Not the most practical for some things, but it can crank out (pun intended) small "non-detailed" items quickly.
I've had my patcher for about two years now. I did spend about a month cleaning, sanding, polishing, and learning its idiosyncrasies. But once the learning curve was over I've really enjoyed using it. I recently installed a servo motor, which works well, but I've been concerned about the arm bearings inside the flywheel. Happily, I ran across your website showing the replacement procedure, plus the link to Bantam's website where I just purchased the spare bearings and some other goodies. Thanks for sharing the information.
You are EXACTLY right! When you get one of these you have to be willing to put in the time to clean, sand, polish, etc and LEARN how they work. There is a super steep learning curve on these. If anyone thinks they are going to work well right out of the box, they are fooling themselves. But with some TIME and patience, they can become great additions to the shop. Better than dropping a grand on a "real" leather sewing machine. They are perfect for non-detail work. Thanks for watching and truly adding to the discussion. Stay well. Peace.
Well I was just going ask where to get the correct bearing, then I read your comment and you answered my question. Thanks.
Your video was helpful to me because my Patchier arrived with a broken bearing. I have contacted Bantam to see if they still carry these since their website did not show them. Sure hope they do. Thanks for posting this video.
Their website is sketchy as heck. The image when you try to order the bearings is of "bobbins" not bearings (and you only get 2 instead of the 10 shown). But when I ordered them, everything turned out okay and they got to my house quick. Best of luck.
What size bearings are those
I got mine from Bantam Saddle Tack, but they are currently out of stock.
@@HNXMedia size
Man oh man... I hate when this happens... You dis a great fix!!
I was a little chaffed about spending near $10 on two bearings, but at least it is working again.
Ok, question... I didn't have broken bearing, but pulled the lower arm apart to clean the mill scale and nast off of everything. Put it back together and thread it up, everything seems to be running smooth...I go to out a first stitch thru a piece of leather and it makes less than a full rotation and locks up. It's like the machine won't turn that corner where the flywheel inside race turns to bring the bottom sliding gear rail back in the other direction. Just hits a wall. The needle had already pierced the work and bottomed out, everything just comes to a halt. Doesn't seem to be the top arm binding up or anything. Seems like the bobbin carrier is somehow bound up that quickly and stops the whole operation. How can the timing be that far off that quickly? Setting it up 11:00 crank handle to 3:00 on the little bobbin carrier thing. The hook seems to be catching the thread loop off the needle fine when run without any material but as soon as it's actually putting a stitch thru something, it binds up tighter than Dick's hatband. Ideas? Im about to put this damn thing thru the wall.
Not a bad idea to grab a scribe or a punch or something and making some witness marks before you remove that part for repair or cleaning, so you can easily get it back together at the correct adjustment so you don’t throw your timing off. Especially if you’re removing the rack that runs the bobbin at the same time. There’s a fair amount of adjustment in the slots where they bolt together and you can create some problems for yourself if you’re not intimately familiar with the machine. If you end up without any indication and don’t recall exactly where it should be adjusted, a good starting point is with the flywheel positioned for the maximum throw, the rack should just peek out the end of the arm. …at least that’s where mine is, I guess ya never know with the tolerances on these machines Anyway, sorry for rambling just thought I’d offer an idea that could save somebody a headache some time. Not that I’ve ever caused such a headache for myself, of course.
Thank you for taking the time to add this information to the discussion. I know people will find it useful. Once you get these machines dialed in correctly, they certainly do save a lot of time.
Can't go wrong with manual fixable machines. That thing will outlive us 😄 We have too many electronic controlled disposable stuff these days.
That is the main reason I got it (and the price). Wife said spend the money on an electronic one, but I wanted to see how much I'd actually use it and I wanted one I could work on if need be (learn more that way anyhow). I love the rugged "Cold War" aesthetic.
$&@%# Chinese!!! Designed by the same guy that hides strainers deep inside a washing machine.
You're damned right!