About fuse sizing. Since we are always learning. Common error is to fuse to the device. We fuse to protect the wire not the device. A 5 amp device will draw 5 amps. Wire size to that draw, then fuse to that wire size and length with desired volt drop in mind. We do not “burn up” a device because the wire or fuse is too large. Comment welcome.
Fuses can be used to protect devices as well as wire. In the instance of this project I used the fuses to protect the devices all the wiring was capable of easily handling the current of the fuse. In the instance of a motor load the fusing will protect the wiring and the overloads will protect the motor. I won't fall on a sword and say there's only one way to do it both methods are valid. In this project I chose to protect both the switches and the devices with my fuse sizes. Hopefully that helped.
woow nice build love it i have 3000 watts 48V 120V 60Hz 40A I i have breaker in my tool box 4 breaker 2 15A breaker and 2 20A breaker for my out let them make my own breaker panel for my inverter cause i have one out let coming from my inverter and my inverter is 3000 watts pure sine wave
That sounds really neat. With mine being 500w, I wasn't too worried about needing power distribution. If I ever make a bigger version, multiple circuits and distribution breakers would be part of it. It sounds like you have a nice assortment with two 15A and to 20A circuits. Did you build your entire rig or just the power distribution part?
The schematic is in the slide show at the end of the first video, I run through all my versions. Like any good projects it evolved a bit as I put it together. I run through all the major components in the first video also. The parts are for my application, I was going for a 2 hour runtime at 350w I should get close. That said the performance of this will be very frustrating to someone wanting to run higher loads. Different products would be advisable to increase performance. With these things they almost need to be built to a purpose. This one has a pretty firm 500w limitation which isn't all that large.
@@TalkingHandsTools What would you suggest if I was wanting to run a tool that caps at 1300 watts (Leister Heat Gun)? Im a commercial roofer and sparkies dont like putting outlets on the roof unless the tinbangers spec them on the a/c units.
That would be around 200-250 ah of battery and I'd stay above 1500w inverter. It's doable but it would be a costly rig to build. Do any of the other cordless heat guns hit the Temps you need?
found the schematic but not your componets list your design is very clean and professional and would like very much to reproduce for personal use thank you Sir.
I don't have a formal components list other than they are all in the schematic. I could try to make a list at some point. I will not be able to share any sale links, only a quantity and type of component.
I posted a schematic as a community post. You should be able to work up a BOM from that. I sourced most the parts from many different sources some don't sell on the internet. You should be able to get close from the schematics.
Skipping through your video. Using relays I guess you can use very small switches if you use small transistors or microcontroller. So no worries of burning out the switches. That's why they use electronics. So no overloading the switches. But other than that you are better making your build professional. So I would think you would be using electronics.
I like to be a bit old school with things. But in all seriousness, I might use some solid state stuff in a future project. I chose relays for this project to try to make things like this fairly simple and obtainable for people. A big goal I had with this build was to try and keep the components as simple and readily available as possible. Thanks again for the comments. I hope you enjoyed the build.
Again, this was so beautifully built, I’d be hard pressed to come close. I did build a similar box, for a ham radio (on TH-cam) many years ago. But I’m about to build one like this. It would be nice to have a charge controller for solar hook up, but you’ve maxed out your internal real estate. Which is amazing. I have no criticism, this was a piece of art. I’m a fan, and will love watching any future projects. Total eye candy! Thanks for sharing, I’d give this a hundred likes, if I could.
Thank you very much for the kind words. The 20A 12v outlet kinda serves double duty for a provision for a solar array in future. I also have a larger version of this in planning stages that will incorporate other means of charging among them will be solar. Thank you again for the kind words these projects take a while to build on camera and it makes me happy people are able to take something away from it. If the size case is no big deal you could likely bump up a size with the packouts and have more space. I was trying to keep this as small as I could to keep it portable and meet a specific purpose (the remote controlled outlet is part of that aswell)
I understand people are frustrated. I haven't shared links to what I bought. If I did that, you would find dead links or auctions for items that are out of stock. Unfortunately, even if I provided an up to date Bill of material to copy what I made, you would be spending a significant amount of time assembling everything. What I designed works for my purpose. Someone may consider its performance horrible and say this project is a waste of time. If you want to build a custom project, there's unfortunately not an easy button. You're always going to have some work on your own end. Sourcing parts isn't all that bad. It seems overwhelming, but break it down to necessary items and find items that meet your size requirements. Another large part of a custom project is what you would like it to do. This has been specifically designed to meet my purpose, and it does that, but it may not meet yours. However, if you're building it, you can tweak the design to meet your own needs. Then you'll have your own one of a kind purpose built unit for your own needs. I'll be happy to answer any questions about key components and help you work through your own design where I can. I don't do affiliate links, nor do I really want to suggest to people where to buy their gear. What if a link I suggest is a bad seller? I prefer to stay away from all that. I hope you understand. Thank you for the comment, and I'll help you where I can.
That is very nice build cool love it 🥰🥰🥰🥰 the only thing i never see no body have breaker in them i build one i have 20Amp breaker from that gose to 110A/C outlet so nothing will worng with my inverter the breaker will just flip
@@TalkingHandsTools That cool not lot people put breaker in them you are only one and i see put breaker inside of it i have 3000 watts need to get fixed broke some off it keep up good work
I have 48V solar charger controller its 30A ok am in Toronto Canada how solar i need or how much 12 volt panel i need to put together to charge my battery 4 battery 18A each
I'm not following your question exactly but I'll do my best. Wattage is always going to be equal to amperage times voltage. So an example would be an 18AH battery would take a 1 Amp charger approximately 18 hours to charge. There's always so loss so it won't be exact. That being said a 100W solar panel at 12V is Approximately 8 amps. With no shading the and no other loads 100W panel would charge the 18 Amp hour battery in just over 2 hours. Hopefully that helps out. I know you were talking about a 48v system but again wattage equals voltage times amperage. Or Amperage equals wattage divide by voltage. By doing this you can figure out the amperage output your array will have. From there divide your battery Amp Hours to figure out how long it'll take to charge your batteries. Make sure your charge controller can handle both the voltage and current of your planned array. You mention a 30A charger. Make sure you follow the voltage spec for that current and remember the charger will only put out as much power as the array supplies it.
I used the Milwaukee 48-22-8424 case. I designed this with portable lighting for photography in mind (thus the remote) the lighting load is around 350w so it's within 80 percent of the inverter. I'm sure I'll use this for other things as well but I designed it for the photography application. I may also consider making a larger scale version with the lessons learned on this one. Stay tuned next week you'll see it run a few things.
Thank you for the comment, I didn't consider removing the inverter from the case. I wonder if taking it out of the aluminum case would impact its ability the dissipate heat. That would be a great experiment if space was needed on a future project.
It seems that you left out a lot of detail about the aluminum framework that holds everything into place as well as grounds it all. Overall just a brilliant project and along the lines of what I want to build. I'm a carpenter and more interested in the structural details for obvious reasons, but I do field work as a bicycle mechanic. I can see a similar setup (perhaps with solar charging capabilities) getting me through a long weekend of charging phones, running a computer or perhaps a power tool.
I had an unfortunate moment of "Thought the camera was recording" when I built the aluminum framework, so unfortunately the detailed shots of building that didn't make it in the video. This has been a great project, and it has been super handy to have. If you're looking for a lower capacity rig, I think you would be really pleased with something like this.
If I'm running it with about 80% load I can get around an hour out of it. It was designed with intermittent use in mind as well as remote charging. It lasts quite a while. This was a super fun project to put together.
Thank you very much! It was a very fun project. What size systems do you put together? I'm on learning curve with solar myself. I'm toying with making a slightly larger version of this and incorporating solar in that project.
@@TalkingHandsTools My units are roughly the same size as yours, but are much simpler in their design and build. I HEARTILY agree with the Battery you chose-I use the same ones. They're a good value for the money.
With your external underside countersunk screws, what is to stop those from simply pulling through the underside plastic case wall over time ? Plastic isn't metal, and the obvious pliability of the plastic against the superior hardness of your stainless steel externally countersunk screws will easily pull through your thin plastic underside external case wall.
There is a decent amount of surface area on the screws. It'll be interesting to see how things hold up. So far, I've not had anything work loose. I don't tend to throw my gear around, and I normally do what I can to take care of things. That being said, if this were aimed toward a more commercial market, I would agree 100 percent that things may not be as robust as they should be. Taking the extreme size limitations into consideration, how do you feel I could make things more robust and still maintain the ability to utilize the packouts functionality with locking into other packouts? I played around with a few ideas, and I figured I'd give this a go and see how it held up. Thank you for the comment. You bring up a very good point. If I build a larger version on this, maybe I can try another method. If anyone else in the comments had any ideas, I would love to hear them.
The first one was in a Rigid box, same size a yours here. The second one was in a Packout Roller. But in neither video did I explain in as much detail as you did on this build. So when people say they wish I'd explain what I'm doing in more detail.. I just reply with a link to this video. Good job on this build.
@i.b.lancer Thank you very much, I swung by your channel and checked out your two builds. I think you did a really nice job on them. I really liked your editing. Editing is something I need to learn more about one of these days.
@i.b.lancer Most everything I do is one shot and spliced in order. I feel it shows, but it's within my abilities, and I'm able to get content out. That being said, I've not put anything up for a while. Work and editing has got in the way. I am slowly working on a much larger version of the inverter, it'll have a 3500W inverter as well as a different approach than my original. I think a few other projects will probably hit the channel first, though.
Great video and assembly! Have a question about diods - use use only one 100a with the relay that operates inverter and 50a with 12v outlet? No smarrer diods? On part 1 video you show a scheme with a lot of diods) As I understand - no diods needed with AC relays, only with DC? Thanks ahead!
I do actually use smaller diodes on all the relay coils and DC loads. I had a recording issue that resulted in me missing some content. The smaller diodes are among the items missed. I ended up putting them in shrink tubing, which may be why you don't see them. Generally, the collapsing field in DC circuits can have an impact on contact tips. The diode allows the reverse current created to flow back into the circuit and not out the contact tips. There are other ways to do this, but we went basic on this project. I did loosely size the diodes to the load, and I've not had issues so far.
@@TalkingHandsTools Thanks for quick answer and sorry for my poor English. Im from Ukraine and russians started to shell owr civil electricity distribution again. So Im making something similar to yours. To clarify - no diods (Ive already wached part 3 with v7 diagramm) with AC relays, no need. A big 100a on a relay to inverter and smaller 40-50a on circuit to power output. And small to other components. Ive added a screenshot - photo.travel/user_files/sfs/270/file_18056.png
Send me an email it's the channels name at Gmail. I'll send you a PDF version of the drawing. The one diode isn't shown twice the 100A one is across the load of the inverter and the lower is a smaller diode across that relays coil. I'll answer what I can for you.
The 20A plug can double as an input. If I go solar I'd likely install a flanged outlet to take a female plug. I don't have an array to charge at this time but it can easily be done. How many amps does an array normally run?
Thats under 10 amps. Are they safe to hook directly to the batteries or do they need auxiliary equipment? I honestly didn't look into them when I did this project.
Well you see, here in the states we'd rather use a unit of measure established on a kings foot....I don't have an answer for you it's how we do fasteners and measuring here. We do end up with two sets of tools though as a result.
@@TalkingHandsTools ok. Fair enough. I’ll have to watch again and convert all measurements. I’m purchasing parts at the moment to build a system and was undecided as to how I’d house the emergency solar station. I’ll defo watch again. Thanks.
Just like you my brain doesn't work in the other system I'm getting better as I get into more stuff. There are larger packouts available if you went a little larger you should be able to cram in your solar controller. I may make a larger version of this on the channel at some point.
@@TalkingHandsTools ok great. I was thinking of mounting on ply that painted with fire retardant paint. With castors. A bit heavy but easy for me to build with my arthritic hands
Everyone has their own application for their own gear. I wanted this project to be portable which is why it ended up a smaller inverter and smaller batteries. If you wouldn't need portability building it the way your saying would be perfect. You would have lots of space to nicely lay everything out and even have plenty of room to add stuff if you want to later. That sounds like a fun project, I had a blast laying out sizing and designing this. Is it perfect , nope, could it be better, absolutely but we got a very functional build that is working great for the application we designed it for. Let me know what you build I'd love to hear about it. Like I said I'm toying with the idea of building one of these on a larger scale and it would be great to hear what other guys include in their builds.
About fuse sizing. Since we are always learning. Common error is to fuse to the device. We fuse to protect the wire not the device. A 5 amp device will draw 5 amps. Wire size to that draw, then fuse to that wire size and length with desired volt drop in mind. We do not “burn up” a device because the wire or fuse is too large. Comment welcome.
Fuses can be used to protect devices as well as wire. In the instance of this project I used the fuses to protect the devices all the wiring was capable of easily handling the current of the fuse. In the instance of a motor load the fusing will protect the wiring and the overloads will protect the motor.
I won't fall on a sword and say there's only one way to do it both methods are valid. In this project I chose to protect both the switches and the devices with my fuse sizes. Hopefully that helped.
This project was by far, the best I’ve seen. Your attention to detail was outstanding.
I could stare at this for hours.
Well done!
Not sure how I missed your comment but thank you.
woow nice build love it i have 3000 watts 48V 120V 60Hz 40A I i have breaker in my tool box 4 breaker 2 15A breaker and 2 20A breaker for my out let them make my own breaker panel for my inverter cause i have one out let coming from my inverter and my inverter is 3000 watts pure sine wave
That sounds really neat. With mine being 500w, I wasn't too worried about needing power distribution. If I ever make a bigger version, multiple circuits and distribution breakers would be part of it. It sounds like you have a nice assortment with two 15A and to 20A circuits.
Did you build your entire rig or just the power distribution part?
One guy burn out his 3000 watts 48V inverter show the video on here just trying safe i used tools table saw 120V 15A ,skillsaw 10A,jigsaw 7A etc
best compact build; they should have a competition for these kind of project
Next video please put parts list and schematic please.
The schematic is in the slide show at the end of the first video, I run through all my versions. Like any good projects it evolved a bit as I put it together. I run through all the major components in the first video also. The parts are for my application, I was going for a 2 hour runtime at 350w I should get close. That said the performance of this will be very frustrating to someone wanting to run higher loads. Different products would be advisable to increase performance. With these things they almost need to be built to a purpose. This one has a pretty firm 500w limitation which isn't all that large.
@@TalkingHandsTools What would you suggest if I was wanting to run a tool that caps at 1300 watts (Leister Heat Gun)? Im a commercial roofer and sparkies dont like putting outlets on the roof unless the tinbangers spec them on the a/c units.
How much run time are you looking for?
@@TalkingHandsTools maybe an hour or 2
That would be around 200-250 ah of battery and I'd stay above 1500w inverter. It's doable but it would be a costly rig to build. Do any of the other cordless heat guns hit the Temps you need?
found the schematic but not your componets list your design is very clean and professional and would like very much to reproduce for personal use thank you Sir.
I don't have a formal components list other than they are all in the schematic. I could try to make a list at some point. I will not be able to share any sale links, only a quantity and type of component.
oorah 👌excellent design Sir please include a scematic and parts list please thank you
I posted a schematic as a community post. You should be able to work up a BOM from that. I sourced most the parts from many different sources some don't sell on the internet. You should be able to get close from the schematics.
Skipping through your video. Using relays I guess you can use very small switches if you use small transistors or microcontroller. So no worries of burning out the switches. That's why they use electronics. So no overloading the switches. But other than that you are better making your build professional. So I would think you would be using electronics.
I like to be a bit old school with things. But in all seriousness, I might use some solid state stuff in a future project.
I chose relays for this project to try to make things like this fairly simple and obtainable for people.
A big goal I had with this build was to try and keep the components as simple and readily available as possible.
Thanks again for the comments. I hope you enjoyed the build.
Again, this was so beautifully built, I’d be hard pressed to come close. I did build a similar box, for a ham radio (on TH-cam) many years ago.
But I’m about to build one like this. It would be nice to have a charge controller for solar hook up, but you’ve maxed out your internal real estate.
Which is amazing. I have no criticism, this was a piece of art. I’m a fan, and will love watching any future projects. Total eye candy!
Thanks for sharing, I’d give this a hundred likes, if I could.
Thank you very much for the kind words. The 20A 12v outlet kinda serves double duty for a provision for a solar array in future. I also have a larger version of this in planning stages that will incorporate other means of charging among them will be solar.
Thank you again for the kind words these projects take a while to build on camera and it makes me happy people are able to take something away from it.
If the size case is no big deal you could likely bump up a size with the packouts and have more space. I was trying to keep this as small as I could to keep it portable and meet a specific purpose (the remote controlled outlet is part of that aswell)
Fantastic build! How much does it weigh?
Too bad you don't have all the links to all the stuff you used. I would of made me one but I'm not spending days looking for all that stuff.
I understand people are frustrated. I haven't shared links to what I bought. If I did that, you would find dead links or auctions for items that are out of stock. Unfortunately, even if I provided an up to date Bill of material to copy what I made, you would be spending a significant amount of time assembling everything. What I designed works for my purpose. Someone may consider its performance horrible and say this project is a waste of time.
If you want to build a custom project, there's unfortunately not an easy button. You're always going to have some work on your own end. Sourcing parts isn't all that bad. It seems overwhelming, but break it down to necessary items and find items that meet your size requirements. Another large part of a custom project is what you would like it to do. This has been specifically designed to meet my purpose, and it does that, but it may not meet yours. However, if you're building it, you can tweak the design to meet your own needs. Then you'll have your own one of a kind purpose built unit for your own needs.
I'll be happy to answer any questions about key components and help you work through your own design where I can. I don't do affiliate links, nor do I really want to suggest to people where to buy their gear. What if a link I suggest is a bad seller? I prefer to stay away from all that. I hope you understand. Thank you for the comment, and I'll help you where I can.
That is very nice build cool love it 🥰🥰🥰🥰 the only thing i never see no body have breaker in them i build one i have 20Amp breaker from that gose to 110A/C outlet so nothing will worng with my inverter the breaker will just flip
My larger 2.0 version has breakers. I'm slowly building that project as I have time.
@@TalkingHandsTools That cool not lot people put breaker in them you are only one and i see put breaker inside of it i have 3000 watts need to get fixed broke some off it keep up good work
The one I'm currently designing should be about the same size as yours. I'm hoping to add quite a few features over what you see in this video series.
I have 48V solar charger controller its 30A ok am in Toronto Canada how solar i need or how much 12 volt panel i need to put together to charge my battery 4 battery 18A each
I'm not following your question exactly but I'll do my best. Wattage is always going to be equal to amperage times voltage. So an example would be an 18AH battery would take a 1 Amp charger approximately 18 hours to charge. There's always so loss so it won't be exact. That being said a 100W solar panel at 12V is Approximately 8 amps. With no shading the and no other loads 100W panel would charge the 18 Amp hour battery in just over 2 hours.
Hopefully that helps out. I know you were talking about a 48v system but again wattage equals voltage times amperage. Or Amperage equals wattage divide by voltage. By doing this you can figure out the amperage output your array will have. From there divide your battery Amp Hours to figure out how long it'll take to charge your batteries.
Make sure your charge controller can handle both the voltage and current of your planned array. You mention a 30A charger. Make sure you follow the voltage spec for that current and remember the charger will only put out as much power as the array supplies it.
With only 500 watts what your use case ? What do you have in mind ? Cool Engineering !
I used the Milwaukee 48-22-8424 case. I designed this with portable lighting for photography in mind (thus the remote) the lighting load is around 350w so it's within 80 percent of the inverter. I'm sure I'll use this for other things as well but I designed it for the photography application. I may also consider making a larger scale version with the lessons learned on this one. Stay tuned next week you'll see it run a few things.
I would take the case off the inverter for extra air flow because this is all encased. Great build btw. I love these builds.
Thank you for the comment, I didn't consider removing the inverter from the case. I wonder if taking it out of the aluminum case would impact its ability the dissipate heat. That would be a great experiment if space was needed on a future project.
@@TalkingHandsTools true it might be a good heat sink at that.
It seems that you left out a lot of detail about the aluminum framework that holds everything into place as well as grounds it all. Overall just a brilliant project and along the lines of what I want to build. I'm a carpenter and more interested in the structural details for obvious reasons, but I do field work as a bicycle mechanic. I can see a similar setup (perhaps with solar charging capabilities) getting me through a long weekend of charging phones, running a computer or perhaps a power tool.
I had an unfortunate moment of "Thought the camera was recording" when I built the aluminum framework, so unfortunately the detailed shots of building that didn't make it in the video. This has been a great project, and it has been super handy to have. If you're looking for a lower capacity rig, I think you would be really pleased with something like this.
I love ❤️ it
How dose it last full charge
If I'm running it with about 80% load I can get around an hour out of it. It was designed with intermittent use in mind as well as remote charging. It lasts quite a while. This was a super fun project to put together.
VERY nice Build! How much $$$$ are you invested in this setup?
Thank you very much, I'd guess between 4 and 5 hundred. The batteries and inverter are the most expensive parts.
@@TalkingHandsTools I design and build small scale Solar Systems for locals in my area. I'm TRULY impressed with how CLEAN your unit looks!
Thank you very much! It was a very fun project. What size systems do you put together? I'm on learning curve with solar myself. I'm toying with making a slightly larger version of this and incorporating solar in that project.
@@TalkingHandsTools My units are roughly the same size as yours, but are much simpler in their design and build. I HEARTILY agree with the Battery you chose-I use the same ones. They're a good value for the money.
With your external underside countersunk screws, what is to stop those from simply pulling through the underside plastic case wall over time ? Plastic isn't metal, and the obvious pliability of the plastic against the superior hardness of your stainless steel externally countersunk screws will easily pull through your thin plastic underside external case wall.
There is a decent amount of surface area on the screws. It'll be interesting to see how things hold up. So far, I've not had anything work loose. I don't tend to throw my gear around, and I normally do what I can to take care of things. That being said, if this were aimed toward a more commercial market, I would agree 100 percent that things may not be as robust as they should be.
Taking the extreme size limitations into consideration, how do you feel I could make things more robust and still maintain the ability to utilize the packouts functionality with locking into other packouts? I played around with a few ideas, and I figured I'd give this a go and see how it held up.
Thank you for the comment. You bring up a very good point. If I build a larger version on this, maybe I can try another method. If anyone else in the comments had any ideas, I would love to hear them.
When people say they wish I’d explained more about my suitcase power pack build… I just reply with a link to this video. Lol.
Thank you for the kind words. What did you build? Did you use a packout? This was a really fun project. I hope you had fun building yours as well.
The first one was in a Rigid box, same size a yours here. The second one was in a Packout Roller. But in neither video did I explain in as much detail as you did on this build. So when people say they wish I'd explain what I'm doing in more detail.. I just reply with a link to this video. Good job on this build.
@i.b.lancer Thank you very much, I swung by your channel and checked out your two builds. I think you did a really nice job on them. I really liked your editing. Editing is something I need to learn more about one of these days.
Thanks but be careful what you wish for. On most videos the editing takes longer to do than the project itself.. lol.
@i.b.lancer Most everything I do is one shot and spliced in order. I feel it shows, but it's within my abilities, and I'm able to get content out. That being said, I've not put anything up for a while. Work and editing has got in the way.
I am slowly working on a much larger version of the inverter, it'll have a 3500W inverter as well as a different approach than my original. I think a few other projects will probably hit the channel first, though.
Great video and assembly! Have a question about diods - use use only one 100a
with the relay that operates inverter and 50a with 12v outlet? No smarrer diods?
On part 1 video you show a scheme with a lot of diods)
As I understand - no diods needed with AC relays, only with DC? Thanks ahead!
I do actually use smaller diodes on all the relay coils and DC loads. I had a recording issue that resulted in me missing some content. The smaller diodes are among the items missed. I ended up putting them in shrink tubing, which may be why you don't see them.
Generally, the collapsing field in DC circuits can have an impact on contact tips. The diode allows the reverse current created to flow back into the circuit and not out the contact tips. There are other ways to do this, but we went basic on this project. I did loosely size the diodes to the load, and I've not had issues so far.
@@TalkingHandsTools Thanks for quick answer and sorry for my poor English. Im from Ukraine and russians started to shell owr civil electricity distribution again. So Im making something similar to yours.
To clarify - no diods (Ive already wached part 3 with v7 diagramm) with AC relays, no need. A big 100a on a relay to inverter and smaller 40-50a on circuit to power output. And small to other components. Ive added a screenshot - photo.travel/user_files/sfs/270/file_18056.png
Send me an email it's the channels name at Gmail. I'll send you a PDF version of the drawing. The one diode isn't shown twice the 100A one is across the load of the inverter and the lower is a smaller diode across that relays coil. I'll answer what I can for you.
Looking good and neat.... I like it 👌
Thank you very much this was a really fun project.
Is the 12 volt plug input or out ? Would be nice to have solar input.
The 20A plug can double as an input. If I go solar I'd likely install a flanged outlet to take a female plug. I don't have an array to charge at this time but it can easily be done. How many amps does an array normally run?
The cheap one 100 watts
Thats under 10 amps. Are they safe to hook directly to the batteries or do they need auxiliary equipment? I honestly didn't look into them when I did this project.
@@TalkingHandsTools for my u understanding you need to connect to the batter charge controller
Nice build. Why imperial measurements. Thought the world was moving to metric. I lost focus watching as a result. Sorry mate.
Well you see, here in the states we'd rather use a unit of measure established on a kings foot....I don't have an answer for you it's how we do fasteners and measuring here. We do end up with two sets of tools though as a result.
@@TalkingHandsTools ok. Fair enough. I’ll have to watch again and convert all measurements. I’m purchasing parts at the moment to build a system and was undecided as to how I’d house the emergency solar station. I’ll defo watch again. Thanks.
Just like you my brain doesn't work in the other system I'm getting better as I get into more stuff. There are larger packouts available if you went a little larger you should be able to cram in your solar controller. I may make a larger version of this on the channel at some point.
@@TalkingHandsTools ok great. I was thinking of mounting on ply that painted with fire retardant paint. With castors. A bit heavy but easy for me to build with my arthritic hands
Everyone has their own application for their own gear. I wanted this project to be portable which is why it ended up a smaller inverter and smaller batteries. If you wouldn't need portability building it the way your saying would be perfect. You would have lots of space to nicely lay everything out and even have plenty of room to add stuff if you want to later. That sounds like a fun project, I had a blast laying out sizing and designing this. Is it perfect , nope, could it be better, absolutely but we got a very functional build that is working great for the application we designed it for. Let me know what you build I'd love to hear about it. Like I said I'm toying with the idea of building one of these on a larger scale and it would be great to hear what other guys include in their builds.