This guy is the only one on TH-cam that does this correctly I see so many other videos of people claiming they know what they're doing and they have no clue Mr Caruthers videos have helped me out tremendously over the last 10 to 15 years this guy's spot on thank you
As a beginner bass player these vids help a ton. My Ibanez sounded like shit and after following this guide it sounds amazing. I was a little scared to do it myself but its really not hard at all so long as you take your time and are careful.
This set of 4 tutorials on bass set-up is fantastic but there are a few additional points that some players who are new to doing their own set-up might not realise. Keep in mind that the bass should be tuned to concert pitch (or a step down if you prefer to play in a lower tuning) from the start, and keep re-checking the tuning (on every string - not just the one you're working on - because tuning affects the tension on the neck) throughout the process, right to the end. And in the step where he shows that the nut might need filing down, if you're measured height is lower than the recommended spec, you might need to replace the nut.
This guy is fantastic and really knows his SH!T... I have been all over uTube watching all sorts of idiots trying to show you bass set up. This is the most straight forward easiest to follow info on proper set up. All you need is basic tools and a feeler gauge set that cost $10 from Home Depot, Harbor Freight, Auto Zone.... And a tuner!
This is a great series - authoritative, clear and straight to the point. Such a refreshing change from the long drawn out and vague waffling that mars so many TH-cam vids. Thank you and well done.
John and I met in 1983 which is when I bought my Stratocaster from Carruther's Guitars. Since then all works done to all of my guitars have been performed by John and everyone of my guitars, acoustic and electrics are perfect instruments. Thanks you John, Rick and all. Happy and Safe Holidays from me to y'all...
I used to find the idea of adjusting my own bass (particularly truss rod adjustments) quite daunting. This series of videos really helped me. Was also very pleased to find that most of these tools and gauges are quite easily and cheaply available online . Thanks
I've owned a capo for 30 years, today is the FIRST time I've ever used it. all this time I thought it was for people to lazy to learn how to play chords besides G C and D. now I have a third leg AND a third hand. THANK YOU
Brilliantly explained John, many thank. As a complete novice with a first bass guitar that has strings about 4 ' from the neck ;-) , I have the confidence to approach setting the guitar up myself after watching your excellent and extremely clear explanation on what to do
recently purchased a new bass that had been "set up" by the store. I've never adjusted a bass before, but followed these instructions and it is amazing how much better it plays & sounds. No more rattle, no more buzz. Thank you!
Thank you for this video. Just got a Squier CV Jazz Bass with some really bad buzz turned out the truss Rod was very tight. These videos have been very helpful and informative.
Just set up Fender American Standard Jazz Bass and only took about 40mins! Went to Harbor Freight Tools and got the proper tools for under 7 bucks! Saved me from spending $70-80 to have someone set it up! Great videos! Thanks!!!
Holy sh*t! if your thinking of trying this...your wasting time by NOT getting it started! these four videos are priceless!!! i just got a bass about six months ago and it never really felt right. i kept getting string vibrations no matter what i tried. turned out to be a really overtightened truss bolt (it took over a full turn to get it right...wtf B&B?). now it sounds like a bass should...and much more fun to play! thx John C., you rock!
For people asking questions: 1. yes, your bass must be tuned before taking measurements. 2. yes, you should loosen the strings before adjusting the truss rod. 3. tune to pitch before checking neck relief. 4. you only need to check the E string for relief, not every string. 5. all tools are available in motor car stores or on the internet
I never heard anyone suggest to tune the truss with strings loosened beside you. That will just case your neck to be out of whack when you tune back up. It will cause a little more tension on the neck but you will be re tuning the truss over and over trying to get it right without your normal string tuning. I did that once and it took me about 10 trys to get it right. Remember were talking about fractions here not inches.
The farthest I go is down to Eb and gap the strings to my liking and slap the hell out of it. Eb is my normal tuning and I never had any issues. You shouldn't have to play with the truss rod long enough to worry about the tension.
I understand that. I never had any problems with truss rods or necks but have repaired a few that were stripped out from over tightening them. That's the worst scenerio I think,
I just set up my bass for the first time after watching your video, John. :) Thanks for this 4 part series. My bass is playing smooth like butter. Again, Thanks!
An easy way to remember the correct sequence for guitar setups is T.R.A.I.N. Tune. Relief (truss rod). Adjust (bridge height). Intonation (string length). Noodle (play every string at every fret). It's also important to remember to tune the guitar before and after each adjustment.
I'm so glad I found these videos. I received a $99 bass yesterday. The bridge height is way off. I've always had better quality guitars. So this was never an issue for me until now ! Thanks John
Excellent 4 part guide! I bought the proper tools and followed the guide. It made a world of difference with regard to playability. John, many thanks for explaining the dark art of bass setup.
For those who don't have a feeler gauge, I've seen some use a piece of paper folded up 2 times. Regular printer paper is approx. .003" so 4 plies is .012, not perfect but it works
Hello,which wrench of truss rod is best for my fender cv 70s bass? 3/16 is too big obviously, and 4mm is a little bit loose , it almost makes me crazy😢 thanks
This is such a badass. I live in his town so I was looking around for solutions to fret buzz, and wondering if I should just take my bass in to him since he did a great job on my guitar... and then the first video I click on, there he is. XFD I'm fucking dying
Yeah. You'll always get more from learning to setup your instruments yourself. For one, you care about the result a whole lot more than Joe Schmoe at Guitar Center. Secondly, you save money. And thirdly, you gain valuable experience and knowledge and an a deeper understanding of how your instrument functions. I changed out the pickups and setup my guitar myself. It was a troublesome experience learning how to wire the pups correctly, but I'm so glad I learned to do it myself!
Thank you so much for uploading these videos. I ran out and bought a feeler gauge and 6" scale (already had the other tools) and followed along. My bass has never sounded better! These vids made it so easy I'm still in awe. John you have my thanks, you rock!
@@fenderjazzface999 The guy on this video is doing it wrong on at least four things, according to Fender support pages: 1. You should loosen the strings before adjusting the truss rod. 2. Depress the string at the LAST fret, check the gap at the 8th fret. 3. As to the 9.5" neck radius, which is pretty much the standard, use a .012" feeler gauge. 4. Check your tuning, then re-check the gap. Reference: support.fender.com/hc/en-us/articles/214343843-How-do-I-set-up-my-bass-guitar-properly Read the Truss rod paragraph.
i realized, after playing a friends bass, that i had such a hard time playing mine because my strings were literally half an inch off the frets, this tutorial really helped, thanks! p.s. managed to adjust the truss rod without the capo by using my elbow to fret
I respectfully would add a step and make it #1 before the others - check the frets with a fret level tool - it might save you the from the issues I had after performing all the steps twice - fret buzz in the higher frets. I thought I had done something wrong so I redid everything before I finally realized I had a problem with my Mighty Mite neck frets. Also you might hit an instrument where you have to "bend the rules" a little for playability - I'm working on a "Frankenstein" bass so I had to shim the neck slot to get it right. John gives us great info for most basses and his knowledge is invaluable - thanks for sharing.
His specs are a bit higher than Fender specs. I setup my Fender Jazz using his exact same recommendations. The action was quite a bit higher than was comfortable for me but it did ease the tension on the strings though which are Rotosound swingbass 66.
An extremely useful instructional series. My only point of concern, as it is a pretty commonly advised step in these guides, is the use of the feeler gauge to measure the distance between the fret and the string. There's simply no way to do this and get a reliable result as the human hand introduces a significant and immeasurable degree of variance. You can even see in this video where he wobbles the angle a little bit. Trying to get it perfectly flat with the fret and not introducing an angle, whether due to the gauge bowing or due to the fact that a human hand can't be brought to mechanical stillness, seems a vain attempt at shooting in the dark and has been so in my own experience. I'd be happy to hear any input on this that some readers might be willing to share.
So if i take the bow out of my truss rod is that tightening the relief or loosening the relief....my truss screw is at the bottom of the neck...can you explain clockwise and counter clockwise...tightening and loosening the truss rod more please
Sweet! My bass plays awesome, now. Instead of the feeler gauge, I did what the British guy in another video said, imagining just fitting a piece of paper in there. Thanks.
Interesting that you set the string height at .015" rather than .008" (2.0 MM) as recommended by Fender. I'm not questioning it, and it's only a difference of .007, but I'm curious if this is a measurement drawn from long experience.
The truss rod on mi Fender MIM jazz bass loosens the next day that i tight it and bows too much with normal gauge strings and i have to adjust it once or twice a week. I'm sending it to warranty but i'm afraid they just adjust it to corrrect the fret buzz and send it back with the same problem.
I have all but nut files honestly you can get by without them just allen wrenches a capo and a paper business card will get you to about .020 then you can tighten it up a little more let it settle in before you make any more adjustments and always make sure if you're tightening your truss rod dont do any more then a quarter turn at a time (if its already tight if its super loose you can do a little more till you feel tension on it..) But rule of thumb is no more then a quarter turn at a time so you dont 1) break the truss rod 2) strip the bolt and make your seasonal adjustment into a more expensive repair 3) so it doesnt settle and be back bowed as this will cause excess fret noise like buzzing every where you play.
Thanks so much for a clear & concise video on Bass Guitar set-up John! I did want to ask, would it have been acceptable to leave the Truss rod as is before you adjusted it, to leave the "action" lower as long as there are no issues with strings hitting frets? Thanks!
I'm a newbie in this matter... I've recently changed the neck plate of my Jazz Bass. Everything seems to be Ok. Is it necessary to make others adjustments? Thank You!
Thank you for a fantastically clear, concise set of video tutorials on setting up a bass guitar! I have fiddled around before and never really nailed it, but your videos have changed all that. I thought I'd try it out on a cheap Precision copy I have before touching my genuine Fender bass and this copy now plays better than either my Fender or Rickenbacker basses! AAA+++
Why does he fret the beck where neck touches the body? Most other videos, articles say to fret the last fret on the neck. I tried both, and it does produce different measurements. Any advice on this point?
Hi Steve, thanks for your question. Unfortunately Mr. Carruthers is unable to respond. We suggest that you contact a local luthier for more assistance. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this incredibly helpful video! I want to ask everyone for a little bit of help, can anyone recommend a capo that works really well on a four-string fender bass? The one in this video looks really easy to use, but I can't find it anywhere. I checked some on Amazon and they all say not for the bass in their description. I could really use some help if anyone can possibly help me find one. Thanks a lot!
Most people who are mechanically inclined, know that most bolts and screws have righthanded threads. These standard types of bolts are tightened when turned clockwise and loosened when turned counterclockwise. This is explains the old saying for newbie mechanics, "Righty tighty, lefty loosie". The reference point has always been, when you are facing the head of the bolt or screw. For newbie mechanics and technicians, this can sometimes be confusing. For example, if you're standing up and you are reaching underneath an object and you are working on an unseen bolt, with the head facing toward the ground. A newbie will often over tighten or break off the screw because they failed to realize that their mental perspective needs to be to turned upside down. If they lied down on the ground and looked up at the head of the bolt, they would realize their mistake immediately. Unfortunately, you can't always do this, because you might not have visual access to the head of a bolt, plus, who wants to lie on the ground when you don't have to? Other examples would be, in situations that are similar to this video, where you are reaching away from your body, to your right or left and you're accessing an unseen bolt from an opposing direction. This also confuses newbies sometimes. Here's a trick that many seasoned mechanics use, when accessing hidden screws from odd directions. Position your hand as though the head of the screw were a large knob that you want to turn with your fingers. Start moving your fingers as though you are dialing the knob in what you believe is the counterclockwise direction to loosen the screw or the clockwise direction to tighten the screw. Now, while you are still continuously dialing with you fingers, remove your hand from it's working position and place it directly in front of your face, with the back of your hand toward your face. Take note of which direction your fingers are dialing. If your fingers are moving in the wrong direction for the job that you are trying to perform, then reverse your dialing direction. If you are moving in the correct direction, then keep dialing. Now, return your hand to it's working position. You have now verified which way to turn your tool. Many mechanics and technicians will do this with just a few quick dials. We do it without even really thinking about it. I gave you the exaggerated version. There are some rare cases where bolts actually have reversed threads. But, this usually only applies to a nut on one end of a rotating axle or shaft.
I still going back to these video series whenever I forget how to setup my bass. Thanks Mr. John Carruthers! For those who want to follow this series: STEP 2 of 4: BRIDGE ACTION HEIGHT th-cam.com/video/c2DlwxSIPA0/w-d-xo.html STEP 3 of 4: NUT SETUP th-cam.com/video/cI9Y9MsmnEc/w-d-xo.html STEP 4 of 4: INTONATION th-cam.com/video/FC30nJgIAJM/w-d-xo.html
Great video series and thanks. I do have a question. I have a standard Fender Jazz (MN but assembled in US (1993)) and my space at the 7th fret is at ~0.035" which is over 2X what is stated here after I tightened the truss rod maybe 2/3 turn in small increments. The truss rod still has reasonable resistance when I move it (not "unreasonable" tension. Does not seem to be at a stop) but I am very afraid of breaking it. The action does seem to be high. Any advice anyone?
So clock wise from the way you holding it ,right? You sitting.You said you turn it counter clock wise ,but turned it to the right. Also ,not everyone knows what a tight neck is .Does tight ,mean bowed ?
CW and CCW are always! referenced from the POV of the actual mechanism being rotated by the tool. In other words, looking at the mechanism from the top (where the tool is inserted). He is turning the Truss Rod Adjustment Nut CCW, as stated.
And what about if the truss rod adjustment is at the other end of the neck (where it meets the body)? Is it still clockwise to tighten, or the opposite? Clockwise at that end would be counterclockwise from the other end.
David Gleaves truss rod tightens and loosens like a screw. Doesn’t matter if you are upper or below the neck. Tightening the truss makes the neck flatter, loosening adds the bow in the neck. Righty tightly lefty loosie :)
I followed all. My problem is at step 2, bridge action.. Mine still buzzing and went away after I raised action to about 2.8mm shy of 3mm for strings A-G, but E string is worst reaching about 3.2mm-3.4mm for the buzz to go away. 😂 I guess it depends on what Jazz bass are you using. Setup and built quality might vary. I have Jazz bass Highway One year 2011.
What if the string heights are different? The E string is 0.33mm but the A string is 0.13mm, when I'm doing the measurement that you are doing after 3:00
HELP SOMEONE PLEASE , my low e string keeps buzzing cus' its too near the first freat , ive adjusted the bride so the action is pretty high but its causing a problem. any help would be appreciated . thanks in advance :)
+Matthew Nash I had a similiar problem where playing the F note in general (the first fret on the E string is an F) and it turned out to be a problem with my amplifier, I don't know if you've got the same problem but try fiddling around with things on your amp
+Hector Woods Is the bass a cheapo? If yes and you have adjusted all the other parts in extreme cases you may need to shim the nut at the head stock. I would let a music store handle that if that is the fix you need.
Sanitys Void The bass was cheap, but it was the amplifier. The amp i was using was worth about £40 new and the one i'm using now is worth £900 new (i got it second hand for a lot less than that). I'm still using the same bass which is worth just under £200
Hello John, I followed your method to get good action on my off brand P Bass and after setting the relief at .015" I went to the bridge to lower the strings but found the setting at the bridge was as low as it would go. The E string was running 6/32 and the G string was running 5/32. Any advice as to how I could get them lower? Would I have to pull the bridge off and router out some of the wood to get the strings lower for better action? Any help from anyone would be appreciated. Thanks for the great videos. Elixir strings are awesome.
Is it normal if my bass doesn't have a truss rod nut? Is it just unadjustable? It's a pretty cheap bass for learning rather than playing, so it's not that big of a deal for me, but I'd like to know.
Thank you for this video, I own a thunderbird so it's different in some ways. This video really helped me on my set up for it. Brilliant!! I've shared with my Facebook group , this is the go to vid for some us do it yourself guys. Thanks again!
Hi, can I ask, did you use the same measurements on your Thunderbird as the ones given in the video? I own a Epiphone Les Paul Special bass and I believe the setup is pretty much the same as the Thunderbird. Thanks!
Brilliant. I have been looking for a decent setup tutorial for ages and this one is easily the best. Everything else seems daunting and fails to explain that you need to do things in a certain order. Only daunting thing on this one is filing the nut, but if you don't change string gauges this shouldn't be an issue, right?
I'm glad I found this channel! I've been playing bass for a few years now and I've started to realize that maybe my bass doesnt sound as good as it could. I was looking at the nut action just a few minutes ago (which led me to looking up something like this video) and noticed that my strings seem to hover just above the first fret... It's really easy to hit a note on that fret but it seems way too low. I think I'm going to look up a luthier. I wonder if Guitar Center will have one among their staff?
It's not uncommon for Guitar Center to have someone on staff who does guitar repair. It is common for them to not be very good. It's an issue with Guitar Center in general. Chain stores tend to have less knowledgeable staff. Hopefully your experience is better than mine has been.
After 10 years, this continues to be the best series on guitar setup available on TH-cam
thanks!
For real, nothing comes close. No bullshit, no shenanigans, no annoying youtubers like nowadays.
My go-to for sure.
@@ElixirStringsMedia and in 4 minutes. Thank you.
x2
This guy is the only one on TH-cam that does this correctly I see so many other videos of people claiming they know what they're doing and they have no clue Mr Caruthers videos have helped me out tremendously over the last 10 to 15 years this guy's spot on thank you
As a beginner bass player these vids help a ton. My Ibanez sounded like shit and after following this guide it sounds amazing. I was a little scared to do it myself but its really not hard at all so long as you take your time and are careful.
This set of 4 tutorials on bass set-up is fantastic but there are a few additional points that some players who are new to doing their own set-up might not realise. Keep in mind that the bass should be tuned to concert pitch (or a step down if you prefer to play in a lower tuning) from the start, and keep re-checking the tuning (on every string - not just the one you're working on - because tuning affects the tension on the neck) throughout the process, right to the end. And in the step where he shows that the nut might need filing down, if you're measured height is lower than the recommended spec, you might need to replace the nut.
Your instructions are easy to follow and to-the-point. Now I set up my own instruments, and I know they're done right. Thank you, John.
This guy is fantastic and really knows his SH!T... I have been all over uTube watching all sorts of idiots trying to show you bass set up. This is the most straight forward easiest to follow info on proper set up. All you need is basic tools and a feeler gauge set that cost $10 from Home Depot, Harbor Freight, Auto Zone.... And a tuner!
This is a great series - authoritative, clear and straight to the point. Such a refreshing change from the long drawn out and vague waffling that mars so many TH-cam vids. Thank you and well done.
John and I met in 1983 which is when I bought my Stratocaster from Carruther's Guitars. Since then all works done to all of my guitars have been performed by John and everyone of my guitars, acoustic and electrics are perfect instruments. Thanks you John, Rick and all. Happy and Safe Holidays from me to y'all...
What a relief
If you were making a joke I get it.
mkfanforever58 hahahaha
Glad I tuned in here. Some good action
@Bill Ding the constructor what the hell was that..
Thanks John and Elixir for making these recordings. Every few months when I buy a new set of strings I watch them again.
I used to find the idea of adjusting my own bass (particularly truss rod adjustments) quite daunting. This series of videos really helped me. Was also very pleased to find that most of these tools and gauges are quite easily and cheaply available online . Thanks
Great to hear!
Why I choose Elixir strings, the best ones I know th-cam.com/video/aHVGMpnpu_w/w-d-xo.html
"Most people don't have three hands" got me.
I've owned a capo for 30 years, today is the FIRST time I've ever used it. all this time I thought it was for people to lazy to learn how to play chords besides G C and D. now I have a third leg AND a third hand. THANK YOU
Good stuff. I bought an inexpensive bass with a lousy setup and using these easy to follow videos I got great results
this series is the best and easiest i've found on youtube! i feel confident to try it now. thank you Mr. Carruthers
Thanks for the positive feedback, Danny!
These 8 year old videos helped me out a GREAT deal. Thanks!!
Brilliantly explained John, many thank. As a complete novice with a first bass guitar that has strings about 4 ' from the neck ;-) , I have the confidence to approach setting the guitar up myself after watching your excellent and extremely clear explanation on what to do
Most people don't have 3 hands..awesome.. the series is informative and you don't stutter, stammer waste my time while giving the info. Thanks, dude!
I saw a really cool acronym once or set up order of operations. T. R. A. I. N. Tune, relief, action, intonation, noodle.
recently purchased a new bass that had been "set up" by the store. I've never adjusted a bass before, but followed these instructions and it is amazing how much better it plays & sounds. No more rattle, no more buzz. Thank you!
Thank you for this video. Just got a Squier CV Jazz Bass with some really bad buzz turned out the truss Rod was very tight. These videos have been very helpful and informative.
Great to hear!
Just set up Fender American Standard Jazz Bass and only took about 40mins! Went to Harbor Freight Tools and got the proper tools for under 7 bucks! Saved me from spending $70-80 to have someone set it up! Great videos! Thanks!!!
Holy sh*t! if your thinking of trying this...your wasting time by NOT getting it started! these four videos are priceless!!! i just got a bass about six months ago and it never really felt right. i kept getting string vibrations no matter what i tried. turned out to be a really overtightened truss bolt (it took over a full turn to get it right...wtf B&B?). now it sounds like a bass should...and much more fun to play! thx John C., you rock!
The only friggin' decent explanation on the whole internet - thank you :)
For people asking questions:
1. yes, your bass must be tuned before taking measurements.
2. yes, you should loosen the strings before adjusting the truss rod.
3. tune to pitch before checking neck relief.
4. you only need to check the E string for relief, not every string.
5. all tools are available in motor car stores or on the internet
hihosilver666 thanks!
I never heard anyone suggest to tune the truss with strings loosened beside you. That will just case your neck to be out of whack when you tune back up. It will cause a little more tension on the neck but you will be re tuning the truss over and over trying to get it right without your normal string tuning. I did that once and it took me about 10 trys to get it right. Remember were talking about fractions here not inches.
The farthest I go is down to Eb and gap the strings to my liking and slap the hell out of it. Eb is my normal tuning and I never had any issues. You shouldn't have to play with the truss rod long enough to worry about the tension.
I understand that. I never had any problems with truss rods or necks but have repaired a few that were stripped out from over tightening them. That's the worst scenerio I think,
How can you both have the bass tuned, and loosen the strings?
I just set up my bass for the first time after watching your video, John. :) Thanks for this 4 part series. My bass is playing smooth like butter. Again, Thanks!
Been my bass guy now for 36 years.
@Glenn Henry Bro, it’s forty now
Spot on. When I started out, nobody would even talk about this until you and others like Dan Erlewine
"most people dont have three hands"
unless they play N64
Victor Wooten seems to have 3 hands.
Some of them have 5 hands
I caught that too😂
First time I heard, I was like, It was a joke? Are you serious?
I didn’t have a feeler gauge so I found that two index cards was about 0.4 mm and that worked fine for me
An easy way to remember the correct sequence for guitar setups is T.R.A.I.N. Tune. Relief (truss rod). Adjust (bridge height). Intonation (string length). Noodle (play every string at every fret).
It's also important to remember to tune the guitar before and after each adjustment.
Thanks for your comment, Sky!
Very good job! May I suggest that you put a link to where we can get your book?
These four videos helped me turn a cheap bass into a decent one. Thank you! All it takes is a little patience and visual attention to detail, right?
Most people don't have three hands! Love it! Good video, very informative.
I'm so glad I found these videos. I received a $99 bass yesterday. The bridge height is way off. I've always had better quality guitars. So this was never an issue for me until now ! Thanks John
You do a very good job of explaining each step in a very clear, understandable manner. Thank you.
Excellent 4 part guide! I bought the proper tools and followed the guide. It made a world of difference with regard to playability. John, many thanks for explaining the dark art of bass setup.
For those who don't have a feeler gauge, I've seen some use a piece of paper folded up 2 times. Regular printer paper is approx. .003" so 4 plies is .012, not perfect but it works
Hello,which wrench of truss rod is best for my fender cv 70s bass? 3/16 is too big obviously, and 4mm is a little bit loose , it almost makes me crazy😢 thanks
This is such a badass. I live in his town so I was looking around for solutions to fret buzz, and wondering if I should just take my bass in to him since he did a great job on my guitar... and then the first video I click on, there he is. XFD I'm fucking dying
What town is this?
@@brendancody9538 seems like we will never know
@@brendancody9538 Its Carruthers guitars in Camarillo CA
I have over adjusted my truss rod and snapped the truss rod. Had to get a new neck. Brother that sucked....
Yeah. You'll always get more from learning to setup your instruments yourself. For one, you care about the result a whole lot more than Joe Schmoe at Guitar Center. Secondly, you save money. And thirdly, you gain valuable experience and knowledge and an a deeper understanding of how your instrument functions. I changed out the pickups and setup my guitar myself. It was a troublesome experience learning how to wire the pups correctly, but I'm so glad I learned to do it myself!
Just adjusted my 1994 Japanese P-Bass using this video. Flattened the action out quite nicely. Thanks!
Thank you so much for uploading these videos. I ran out and bought a feeler gauge and 6" scale (already had the other tools) and followed along. My bass has never sounded better! These vids made it so easy I'm still in awe.
John you have my thanks, you rock!
2007 Mexican P Bass. I just checked my 2016 Am P Bass Pro, and it looks like it was set up pretty good.
Where does the spec come from? Why. 015? Is there a fender manual or something that says what it should be? Do all basses have that?
4 years later and still no answer. I'll ask around
@@fenderjazzface999 The guy on this video is doing it wrong on at least four things, according to Fender support pages:
1. You should loosen the strings before adjusting the truss rod.
2. Depress the string at the LAST fret, check the gap at the 8th fret.
3. As to the 9.5" neck radius, which is pretty much the standard, use a .012" feeler gauge.
4. Check your tuning, then re-check the gap.
Reference:
support.fender.com/hc/en-us/articles/214343843-How-do-I-set-up-my-bass-guitar-properly
Read the Truss rod paragraph.
@@fenderjazzface999 check out Dave's fun world of good stuff he highlights fender specs more in depth...
3:22 Will the neck adjust itself so quickly that you can measure again right away after loosening the rod? I don't think so.
i realized, after playing a friends bass, that i had such a hard time playing mine because my strings were literally half an inch off the frets, this tutorial really helped, thanks!
p.s. managed to adjust the truss rod without the capo by using my elbow to fret
Thanks for sharing your expertise - just ordered your book!
I'm a novice at the bass that this was very helpful. Thanks
I respectfully would add a step and make it #1 before the others - check the frets with a fret level tool - it might save you the from the issues I had after performing all the steps twice - fret buzz in the higher frets. I thought I had done something wrong so I redid everything before I finally realized I had a problem with my Mighty Mite neck frets. Also you might hit an instrument where you have to "bend the rules" a little for playability - I'm working on a "Frankenstein" bass so I had to shim the neck slot to get it right. John gives us great info for most basses and his knowledge is invaluable - thanks for sharing.
His specs are a bit higher than Fender specs. I setup my Fender Jazz using his exact same recommendations. The action was quite a bit higher than was comfortable for me but it did ease the tension on the strings though which are Rotosound swingbass 66.
What are the fender specs?
An extremely useful instructional series. My only point of concern, as it is a pretty commonly advised step in these guides, is the use of the feeler gauge to measure the distance between the fret and the string. There's simply no way to do this and get a reliable result as the human hand introduces a significant and immeasurable degree of variance. You can even see in this video where he wobbles the angle a little bit. Trying to get it perfectly flat with the fret and not introducing an angle, whether due to the gauge bowing or due to the fact that a human hand can't be brought to mechanical stillness, seems a vain attempt at shooting in the dark and has been so in my own experience. I'd be happy to hear any input on this that some readers might be willing to share.
Thanks for this video! Where did you get your wood files?
So if i take the bow out of my truss rod is that tightening the relief or loosening the relief....my truss screw is at the bottom of the neck...can you explain clockwise and counter clockwise...tightening and loosening the truss rod more please
Revisiting this again. Now I know more about the feeler gauge!
how can u both have bass tuned and loosen the string? Please explain to me Thanks
I want that feeler gauge set. It's small enough to get on the frets without being too wide.
Sweet! My bass plays awesome, now. Instead of the feeler gauge, I did what the British guy in another video said, imagining just fitting a piece of paper in there. Thanks.
Interesting that you set the string height at .015" rather than .008" (2.0 MM) as recommended by Fender. I'm not questioning it, and it's only a difference of .007, but I'm curious if this is a measurement drawn from long experience.
The truss rod on mi Fender MIM jazz bass loosens the next day that i tight it and bows too much with normal gauge strings and i have to adjust it once or twice a week. I'm sending it to warranty but i'm afraid they just adjust it to corrrect the fret buzz and send it back with the same problem.
Is 0.015" a standard amount of relief? Are there reasons or situations to use more or less relief than that?
"your gonna need an Allen Wrench" k got it
"your gonna need these other tools" k, guess my bass isnt getting fixed...
Holy my God dude literally just had that thought like 2 mins ago.
I have all but nut files honestly you can get by without them just allen wrenches a capo and a paper business card will get you to about .020 then you can tighten it up a little more let it settle in before you make any more adjustments and always make sure if you're tightening your truss rod dont do any more then a quarter turn at a time (if its already tight if its super loose you can do a little more till you feel tension on it..) But rule of thumb is no more then a quarter turn at a time so you dont 1) break the truss rod
2) strip the bolt and make your seasonal adjustment into a more expensive repair 3) so it doesnt settle and be back bowed as this will cause excess fret noise like buzzing every where you play.
LOL same
@@Jihadbearzwithgunz You have no nut files. Your showers must be very boring;0
@@Jihadbearzwithgunz - But seriously, 1) -a) - adjust lightly and wait several hours. Measure again.. repeat. Wood is funky, hence shower comment.
Thanks so much for a clear & concise video on Bass Guitar set-up John! I did want to ask, would it have been acceptable to leave the Truss rod as is before you adjusted it, to leave the "action" lower as long as there are no issues with strings hitting frets? Thanks!
"Most people don't have three hands", I am only 2:30 in, and I've already learned something useful! :). Seriously though, good stuff!
I'm a newbie in this matter... I've recently changed the neck plate of my Jazz Bass. Everything seems to be Ok. Is it necessary to make others adjustments? Thank You!
Thank you for a fantastically clear, concise set of video tutorials on setting up a bass guitar! I have fiddled around before and never really nailed it, but your videos have changed all that. I thought I'd try it out on a cheap Precision copy I have before touching my genuine Fender bass and this copy now plays better than either my Fender or Rickenbacker basses! AAA+++
Very helpful! Thanks John! I had some fret buzz when playing on the first 3 frets, and this totally solved the problem.
Why does he fret the beck where neck touches the body? Most other videos, articles say to fret the last fret on the neck. I tried both, and it does produce different measurements. Any advice on this point?
Peter Diaz the rod stops about there
My question is should each string be positioned between the 2 magnets for each string for the pick ups to perform correctly?
Hi Steve, thanks for your question. Unfortunately Mr. Carruthers is unable to respond. We suggest that you contact a local luthier for more assistance. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this incredibly helpful video! I want to ask everyone for a little bit of help, can anyone recommend a capo that works really well on a four-string fender bass? The one in this video looks really easy to use, but I can't find it anywhere. I checked some on Amazon and they all say not for the bass in their description. I could really use some help if anyone can possibly help me find one. Thanks a lot!
My feeller gauge is in metric system, so there is .35 or .40 and no .381
so should I use .35 or .40 to measure the space?
Do you use these same measurements for a fretless bass too. If not Is there a video showing how to set up a fretless bass. I couldnt find anything.
2 years later, ever find anything?
At 3:26 : to losen, go counterclockwise direction, but I see a turn clock being done (assuming the luthier viewpoint) ??
If you are looking down at the nut he went counter
Most people who are mechanically inclined, know that most bolts and screws have righthanded threads. These standard types of bolts are tightened when turned clockwise and loosened when turned counterclockwise. This is explains the old saying for newbie mechanics, "Righty tighty, lefty loosie". The reference point has always been, when you are facing the head of the bolt or screw.
For newbie mechanics and technicians, this can sometimes be confusing. For example, if you're standing up and you are reaching underneath an object and you are working on an unseen bolt, with the head facing toward the ground. A newbie will often over tighten or break off the screw because they failed to realize that their mental perspective needs to be to turned upside down. If they lied down on the ground and looked up at the head of the bolt, they would realize their mistake immediately. Unfortunately, you can't always do this, because you might not have visual access to the head of a bolt, plus, who wants to lie on the ground when you don't have to?
Other examples would be, in situations that are similar to this video, where you are reaching away from your body, to your right or left and you're accessing an unseen bolt from an opposing direction. This also confuses newbies sometimes.
Here's a trick that many seasoned mechanics use, when accessing hidden screws from odd directions. Position your hand as though the head of the screw were a large knob that you want to turn with your fingers. Start moving your fingers as though you are dialing the knob in what you believe is the counterclockwise direction to loosen the screw or the clockwise direction to tighten the screw. Now, while you are still continuously dialing with you fingers, remove your hand from it's working position and place it directly in front of your face, with the back of your hand toward your face. Take note of which direction your fingers are dialing. If your fingers are moving in the wrong direction for the job that you are trying to perform, then reverse your dialing direction. If you are moving in the correct direction, then keep dialing. Now, return your hand to it's working position. You have now verified which way to turn your tool.
Many mechanics and technicians will do this with just a few quick dials. We do it without even really thinking about it. I gave you the exaggerated version.
There are some rare cases where bolts actually have reversed threads. But, this usually only applies to a nut on one end of a rotating axle or shaft.
is there a common household item that can be a suitable substitute for the feelers gauge if you do not have one on you?
these videos are absolutely invaluable, and things like this make me continue to buy elixir strings
I still going back to these video series whenever I forget how to setup my bass. Thanks Mr. John Carruthers!
For those who want to follow this series:
STEP 2 of 4: BRIDGE ACTION HEIGHT
th-cam.com/video/c2DlwxSIPA0/w-d-xo.html
STEP 3 of 4: NUT SETUP
th-cam.com/video/cI9Y9MsmnEc/w-d-xo.html
STEP 4 of 4: INTONATION
th-cam.com/video/FC30nJgIAJM/w-d-xo.html
We're glad that you find them helpful!
is there any device / tools that has the same thickness with that gauge tools 2:56 ?
my new Yamaha pickup volumes was well out the d and g really quiet just wouldn't set till I did the trust rod.
Great video series and thanks.
I do have a question. I have a standard Fender Jazz (MN but assembled in US (1993)) and my space at the 7th fret is at ~0.035" which is over 2X what is stated here after I tightened the truss rod maybe 2/3 turn in small increments. The truss rod still has reasonable resistance when I move it (not "unreasonable" tension. Does not seem to be at a stop) but I am very afraid of breaking it. The action does seem to be high.
Any advice anyone?
its where the neck meets the body, it could be any fret depending on the scale length.
Is it the same process (capo on 1st fret) if you're adjusting the truss rod from the neck heel?
I don’t have a feeler gauge, would a business card work for measurement?
So clock wise from the way you holding it ,right? You sitting.You said you turn it counter clock wise ,but turned it to the right. Also ,not everyone knows what a tight neck is .Does tight ,mean bowed ?
CW and CCW are always! referenced from the POV of the actual mechanism being rotated by the tool. In other words, looking at the mechanism from the top (where the tool is inserted). He is turning the Truss Rod Adjustment Nut CCW, as stated.
I have the same question
And what about if the truss rod adjustment is at the other end of the neck (where it meets the body)? Is it still clockwise to tighten, or the opposite? Clockwise at that end would be counterclockwise from the other end.
David Gleaves truss rod tightens and loosens like a screw. Doesn’t matter if you are upper or below the neck. Tightening the truss makes the neck flatter, loosening adds the bow in the neck. Righty tightly lefty loosie :)
I followed all. My problem is at step 2, bridge action.. Mine still buzzing and went away after I raised action to about 2.8mm shy of 3mm for strings A-G, but E string is worst reaching about 3.2mm-3.4mm for the buzz to go away. 😂 I guess it depends on what Jazz bass are you using. Setup and built quality might vary. I have Jazz bass Highway One year 2011.
What if the string heights are different? The E string is 0.33mm but the A string is 0.13mm, when I'm doing the measurement that you are doing after 3:00
I could've sworn you have to let the bass rest a while after making each truss rod adjustment....Is this guy a magician or something?
I never knew that was something you were supposed to do
HELP SOMEONE PLEASE , my low e string keeps buzzing cus' its too near the first freat , ive adjusted the bride so the action is pretty high but its causing a problem. any help would be appreciated . thanks in advance :)
+Matthew Nash I had a similiar problem where playing the F note in general (the first fret on the E string is an F) and it turned out to be a problem with my amplifier, I don't know if you've got the same problem but try fiddling around with things on your amp
+Hector Woods Is the bass a cheapo? If yes and you have adjusted all the other parts in extreme cases you may need to shim the nut at the head stock. I would let a music store handle that if that is the fix you need.
Sanitys Void The bass was cheap, but it was the amplifier. The amp i was using was worth about £40 new and the one i'm using now is worth £900 new (i got it second hand for a lot less than that). I'm still using the same bass which is worth just under £200
+Hector Woods Roger that!
get a feeler gadge and start over your nut might be cut to deep so you may need a new nut
Where can I get a capo for bass?
Hello John, I followed your method to get good action on my off brand P Bass and after setting the relief at .015" I went to the bridge to lower the strings but found the setting at the bridge was as low as it would go. The E string was running 6/32 and the G string was running 5/32. Any advice as to how I could get them lower? Would I have to pull the bridge off and router out some of the wood to get the strings lower for better action? Any help from anyone would be appreciated. Thanks for the great videos. Elixir strings are awesome.
Hi Franko, Mr. Carruthers is unable to respond to your questions. We suggest that you contact a local luthier for assistance. Thanks for watching.
Is it normal if my bass doesn't have a truss rod nut? Is it just unadjustable? It's a pretty cheap bass for learning rather than playing, so it's not that big of a deal for me, but I'd like to know.
Do I need to loose the tension of my strings before working on the truss rod? Or is not necessary?
Thank you for this video, I own a thunderbird so it's different in some ways. This video really helped me on my set up for it. Brilliant!! I've shared with my Facebook group , this is the go to vid for some us do it yourself guys. Thanks again!
Hi, can I ask, did you use the same measurements on your Thunderbird as the ones given in the video? I own a Epiphone Les Paul Special bass and I believe the setup is pretty much the same as the Thunderbird. Thanks!
If you were restringing your bass also, would you do all of this before or after?
Brilliant. I have been looking for a decent setup tutorial for ages and this one is easily the best. Everything else seems daunting and fails to explain that you need to do things in a certain order. Only daunting thing on this one is filing the nut, but if you don't change string gauges this shouldn't be an issue, right?
I'm glad I found this channel!
I've been playing bass for a few years now and I've started to realize that maybe my bass doesnt sound as good as it could. I was looking at the nut action just a few minutes ago (which led me to looking up something like this video) and noticed that my strings seem to hover just above the first fret... It's really easy to hit a note on that fret but it seems way too low. I think I'm going to look up a luthier. I wonder if Guitar Center will have one among their staff?
It's not uncommon for Guitar Center to have someone on staff who does guitar repair. It is common for them to not be very good. It's an issue with Guitar Center in general. Chain stores tend to have less knowledgeable staff. Hopefully your experience is better than mine has been.
Does anyone know what size allen wrench you need for the bridge? I can't find the right size anywhere
I would absolutely love to let this man loose with my bass collection. If only.
Okay, you said "Turn counter clockwise", but turned the key clockwise. It that counter clockwise from looking at the headstock down the neck then?
What are the measurement for string height and truss rod for a fretless fender bass?