Ran it for about 1.5 years with no issues, then sold my Revo and PA14 and replaced them were newer AI's. Last I hear, about a year ago they guy is still using the kayak. I figure he's mention if there were any leaks/issue but he did not.
After seeing your series on this mod, makes me wanna remove my already installed click-n-go's and do the tig weld. That way, no matter what, I can install ANY mirage drive. I have tolerated with the 1/2" raised pedal drive by just dremeling and shaving the plastic on the pedal drive, enough so it doesn't rub too hard against the hull. Not the greatest result, since it still makes contact and doesn't sit flush, but it's working without any issues or damage for years now and still going. If I do happen to perform the tig weld and follow your dimensions, do you think I would still be able to use the original Lightning Kayaks plastic housing? I don't think I really need to do the whole teak block like you did. Also, Great job with the series of videos and explanations on this project and giving credit to @Blue Summit Outdoors, whom I was also inspired to perform the click-n-go mod. His and your videos will definitely encourage and provide confidence to the rest of the older hobie kayak enthusiasts that seek to perform this awesome mod.
Did you attempt to do this tog weld upgrade, also would it be bad to grind out the groove where the drive sits down/locks in to lower it? But it’s good to hear you were still able to use it the way the other guy did it, does it affect speed or anything else noticeable?
I have a hoodoo kayak that has an issue of the fin drive popping out of the click And go latches. I reached out to hoodoo and they are gonna send me new latches with “improved” springs. It’s the same set up as hobies. I saw one of the latches in this video had a curved cut the looks like it would secure and follow the drive pins curve. Was that lighting kayaks parts? The current latches I have are the straight ones without the curved cut.
@@motleypixel ok well I also thought about sanding/ grinding down the plastic i have material to plastic if needed, but doing what you did was awesome but i can’t do all that
I'm attempting this build right now. Do you happen to have any of the measurements of the teak block? Did you taper the shape of the blocks to the contour of the opening or leave your edges 90 degrees?
Been awhile since I did this. Also I sold my Revo 13 almost 2 years ago and that person lived 2.5 hours away. I can say the second one I did for a local friend about 1.5 years ago has held up well. First, just want to confirm, you did the actual click-n-go cut/SS tig modification correct? For the teak block I did contour so it fit into the well more snug. It's really sort of organic once you do the clay mold and then use it for a rough cut on the teak. Just take your time, sand/carve slowly. I use a Rigid oscillating belt sander to shape, really sped things up. Andy, perhaps we can connect for a chat? Happy to spend 10/15 on a call. Good luck.
@@motleypixel Thanks for the reply. Yeah I’m trying to emulate exactly what you did more or less. I bought the lightning click and go. The teak block that I have happened to be the exact dimensions of the base, that’s why I was asking about if yours was tapered. I used a angle grinder and flap disc and got the teak fitting pretty good. I’m not the best tig welder out there but good enough for this project. I really appreciate the info
Ran it for about 1.5 years with no issues, then sold my Revo and PA14 and replaced them were newer AI's. Last I hear, about a year ago they guy is still using the kayak. I figure he's mention if there were any leaks/issue but he did not.
After seeing your series on this mod, makes me wanna remove my already installed click-n-go's and do the tig weld. That way, no matter what, I can install ANY mirage drive.
I have tolerated with the 1/2" raised pedal drive by just dremeling and shaving the plastic on the pedal drive, enough so it doesn't rub too hard against the hull. Not the greatest result, since it still makes contact and doesn't sit flush, but it's working without any issues or damage for years now and still going.
If I do happen to perform the tig weld and follow your dimensions, do you think I would still be able to use the original Lightning Kayaks plastic housing?
I don't think I really need to do the whole teak block like you did.
Also, Great job with the series of videos and explanations on this project and giving credit to @Blue Summit Outdoors, whom I was also inspired to perform the click-n-go mod.
His and your videos will definitely encourage and provide confidence to the rest of the older hobie kayak enthusiasts that seek to perform this awesome mod.
Did you attempt to do this tog weld upgrade, also would it be bad to grind out the groove where the drive sits down/locks in to lower it? But it’s good to hear you were still able to use it the way the other guy did it, does it affect speed or anything else noticeable?
I have a hoodoo kayak that has an issue of the fin drive popping out of the click
And go latches. I reached out to hoodoo and they are gonna send me new latches with “improved” springs. It’s the same set up as hobies. I saw one of the latches in this video had a curved cut the looks like it would secure and follow the drive pins curve. Was that lighting kayaks parts? The current latches I have are the straight ones without the curved cut.
Would it be easier to grind out that groove to lower it?
No because of the locking mechanism the shaft would not lock tight.
@@motleypixel ok well I also thought about sanding/ grinding down the plastic i have material to plastic if needed, but doing what you did was awesome but i can’t do all that
@@wesleybryant7334 someone near you should be able to SS tig it for you fairly cheap?
@@motleypixel I actually do have a guy that can do it probably wouldn’t even charge me
@@motleypixel thanks for your help and replies and this awesome video i did end up buying a model with the click and go in it a revo 13
Glad that i saw this video before doing it ;) Thanks buddy.
I'm attempting this build right now. Do you happen to have any of the measurements of the teak block? Did you taper the shape of the blocks to the contour of the opening or leave your edges 90 degrees?
Been awhile since I did this. Also I sold my Revo 13 almost 2 years ago and that person lived 2.5 hours away. I can say the second one I did for a local friend about 1.5 years ago has held up well. First, just want to confirm, you did the actual click-n-go cut/SS tig modification correct? For the teak block I did contour so it fit into the well more snug. It's really sort of organic once you do the clay mold and then use it for a rough cut on the teak. Just take your time, sand/carve slowly. I use a Rigid oscillating belt sander to shape, really sped things up. Andy, perhaps we can connect for a chat? Happy to spend 10/15 on a call. Good luck.
@@motleypixel Thanks for the reply. Yeah I’m trying to emulate exactly what you did more or less. I bought the lightning click and go. The teak block that I have happened to be the exact dimensions of the base, that’s why I was asking about if yours was tapered. I used a angle grinder and flap disc and got the teak fitting pretty good. I’m not the best tig welder out there but good enough for this project. I really appreciate the info
Thanks for sharing! Great vid!
Damn that's a lot of work for that mod. Great job going through with it.
Where can I get a replacement Hobie Mirage Drive Cam Lock for my old kayak that I want to sell?
Field test worked good, now it's time to make it bomb proof with Loctite 3035: th-cam.com/video/JyIrgvsLHu0/w-d-xo.html