Thanks for another enlightening video Bart. I enjoy seeing new tools I've never seen being used. It's those "so that's how it's done" moments I enjoy. Take care.
Bart, family is the most important thing in the world. Glad to see you are back at it, now. Am a new subscriber and love your vids! Keep up the good work :-)
Welcome back, Bart Rather than a big wheel, I would consider a foot-operated, reversible DC motor. This would solve your hand-cranking "perspective" viewing problem but more importantly, would allow both hands on the piece for best control Fancier, make the foot switch control a DC speed controller, so you could go slow on tight work, but speed up on long straight work.
Thanks, and I will make a motorized version in the future but I will do some quick modifications on this one first and leave it hand operated. If I have more time I will go 'all out' in designing and building my own.
@@bartharkemametalworks2299 rather that the plate+clamps as stiffener, how about a slotted plate, from your scraps, that slips over the two roller arms, where the slot fits perpendicularly ,snugly on the thickness of the arms?
@@satxsatxsatx Yes I could do that to but welding a bracket to the side seems faster and stronger. A also want to be able to use the full length of the throat.
I would have to agree with Juerg below, a foot-pedal-controlled geared motor would be ideal. And no need to apologize for taking time for family - family is way more important than our hobbies. I've been off-air for a month as our family has been occupied too, lol! Good to see you back at it though, I like your work!
Good to see you healthy and back! Always fun to learn new skills. Maybe route out slot for a movable stiffness bracket. As for building one your self some Angle or c channel should stop the deflection.
Just a suggestion; Eastwood.com has a 27” roller that is stiffened by using two plates with bushings bolted between them. I believe that this is a great way to reinforce to stop the flex.
Zekers geniet heel erg van, Ik heb in het buitenland een oldtimer en alle ervaringen die van je leert kan straks gebruiken, toevallig zat ook te denken om die bedroller van HBM later te kopen, dus ben benieuwd wat je daaraan kan verbeteren, TOP Man!!
Hallo Bart, leuke oplosing om een concaaf/radius frees tegebruiken bij het draaien. Een andere mogelijke oplossing voor de roller machine is om een strip 50x12 of 50x15 overde gehele lengte te bevestigen met een aantal M8 bouten op de smalle kant. mooie video
Hello, I enjoy your content very much. Recently started working with metal after a lifetime of wood working/furniture making. The TH-camr Mustie1 has an upgrade for the same bead roller using a power wheelchair motor. Also. The videos put out by Lazzemetalshaping I found to be very inspirational. He uses top quality tools that he sells but you still need the same techniques to achieve the finished product. Thanks for your being so generous with your skills.
Voor je eigen versie een elektromotor met voetpedaal maken. Zo heb je altijd perfect zicht op je werkstuk. Mooie optie is als je de aansturing variabel kan maken zodat je snelheid kan variëren.
It might help to get rid of the handle on the bead roller, and install a steering wheel from a wrecking yard. I saw this mod in another video, not my idea, so you are not reaching so far when you are using the machine. I have done it to my roller, for what it is worth... Great demo mudguard, by the way++++++++++
Thanks. And yes Practice will make it better. Fun fact is that the customer wanted to have a handmade look. I started with my pullmax to get a cleaner look but he didn't like that. It needed to have some inperfections.
Nice work, really enjoy your videos. But you dont need a beed roller, You have a Pullmax! Just make some dies and you can do all those things with the Pullmax. Great machine
Yes I know. I thought about it for some time but then decided to go for the bead roller. Its easier to make some costum dies and faster to experiment. And I thought the roller would be a little more controled. But I will definitly try the Pullmax to do the same.
So my question is: does the fender arc to fit the radius of the car tire? And does the fender have crown to make an arch over the tire perpendicular to the tire's diameter? If so you need to use your English wheel to crown the center and shrink the sides of the fender before you worry about a wired edge. Shrinking can be achieved in a variety of ways...even using simple hand tools.. also noticed that you used a Steel wire on an aluminum panel... unless you completely isolate any contact between the two dissimilar metals.. you will cause galvanic corrosion... you need to coat the wire so that the coating doesn't flake off during fabrication or use an aluminum wire.. not trying to be critical...just helpful... very cool looking car...just want you to be successful. I have a pullmax too but haven't had the time to really play with it. Metal shaping is a mysterious art but totally attainable with a little knowledge. Best of luck, and judging by your skill set already exhibited you will figure it out.
Hi Jeff, thanks for taking the time to write this. If you watch some later video's you see the bead roller with modifications and a video about making the fenders. I did a lot of testing on this what would be the best way to make it. I have an English wheel and shrinker. The fender is straight from front view (U shape down but not round the tire shape) and only sharp corners from the side view. I tried stretching and shrinking but the bent was to sharp. So I needed to weld the bent and make the wire edge first. About the wire brush, you are right. I use a stainless one that is dedicate to aluminum. That works fine. I still need some more time with the Pullmax. There is so much you can do with it but I need more experience with that and make different dies sets. But it is a very nice machine.
Although it has been quite a while since your post I thought I would respond to your comment. The chance of galvanic corrosion does exist with dissimilar metals like steel and aluminum but typically is accelerated by electrical current passing through the materials. This aluminum fender steel wire assembly will last literally for decades if not for a century before the need for inspection may be necessary. Galvanic corrosion is typically only a problem with aluminum wing spars with titanium bolts retaining them to the airframe. Even in this application it takes decades to create a significant issue as has been proven by the aircraft industry. I'm sure you're a great guy but this vid is about the bead roller and not really the place for an in depth discussion of a rarely destructive event even when used for decades or until the steel itself would have rusted to the point of destruction. Do you seriously think parts like this are produced with some kind of magic plating that won't scratch when formed like this by auto manufacturers?
Bart, the link that AJ Kolodziejski provided to Mustie1's videos, includes an unboxing video of a similar tool to yours. However, though its hard to be sure only from the video, the backplate of that tool looks to be substantially thicker plate, and in the video, the upper arm does not deflect anywhere near as much as yours does. I suspect your version has been "value engineered" to the point of almost non functionality. Your tool seems to be crying out for a substantial angle iron reinforcement welded along the top of the backplate. As far as I can see that would not interfere with the operation.
Thanks. Yes it would help a little bit. I already made the fenders and it worked fine. I just had to be careful not to put to much pressure on the dies.
Greetings from India. Nice machine shop and enjoy what you create. Take care and be safe. Regards
Thanks!
Thanks for another enlightening video Bart. I enjoy seeing new tools I've never seen being used. It's those "so that's how it's done" moments I enjoy. Take care.
Thanks Bret!
It's good to see you back Bart. I hope you and yours are healthy and well.
Thanks!
Bart, family is the most important thing in the world. Glad to see you are back at it, now. Am a new subscriber and love your vids! Keep up the good work :-)
Great job for first time, using the bead roller!
Thanks!
Welcome back, Bart
Rather than a big wheel, I would consider a foot-operated, reversible DC motor.
This would solve your hand-cranking "perspective" viewing problem
but more importantly, would allow both hands on the piece for best control
Fancier, make the foot switch control a DC speed controller, so you could go slow on tight work, but speed up on long straight work.
Thanks, and I will make a motorized version in the future but I will do some quick modifications on this one first and leave it hand operated. If I have more time I will go 'all out' in designing and building my own.
@@bartharkemametalworks2299
rather that the plate+clamps as stiffener,
how about a slotted plate, from your scraps, that slips over the two roller arms, where the slot fits perpendicularly ,snugly on the thickness of the arms?
@@satxsatxsatx Yes I could do that to but welding a bracket to the side seems faster and stronger. A also want to be able to use the full length of the throat.
I would have to agree with Juerg below, a foot-pedal-controlled geared motor would be ideal. And no need to apologize for taking time for family - family is way more important than our hobbies. I've been off-air for a month as our family has been occupied too, lol! Good to see you back at it though, I like your work!
Good to see you healthy and back! Always fun to learn new skills. Maybe route out slot for a movable stiffness bracket. As for building one your self some Angle or c channel should stop the deflection.
Thank you. I will weld a bracket to the side for more strength. And do some more modifications as well.
Just a suggestion; Eastwood.com has a 27” roller that is stiffened by using two plates with bushings bolted between them. I believe that this is a great way to reinforce to stop the flex.
@@frankherring6253 Thanks. I looked at it and its a nice design. Maybe i'll use it.
Zekers geniet heel erg van, Ik heb in het buitenland een oldtimer en alle ervaringen die van je leert kan straks gebruiken, toevallig zat ook te denken om die bedroller van HBM later te kopen, dus ben benieuwd wat je daaraan kan verbeteren, TOP Man!!
Dank je! Ik zal wel wat aanpassingen doen en hier ook een video van maken.
Gaaf, wou dat ik kort bij jou zou wonen om dingen te leren, groeten uit Heerde 👍
I look forward to your version. I'm sure it will be awesome 👍
Glad you’re back in the shop
Great to see you back, looking forward to your future projects.
Your workshop impressive!
Thanks!
👍😎👍 - hope the family is doing better.
Hope everyone is doing well
Hallo Bart, leuke oplosing om een concaaf/radius frees tegebruiken bij het draaien. Een andere mogelijke oplossing voor de roller machine is om een strip 50x12 of 50x15 overde gehele lengte te bevestigen met een aantal M8 bouten op de smalle kant. mooie video
Hello, I enjoy your content very much. Recently started working with metal after a lifetime of wood working/furniture making. The TH-camr Mustie1 has an upgrade for the same bead roller using a power wheelchair motor. Also. The videos put out by Lazzemetalshaping I found to be very inspirational. He uses top quality tools that he sells but you still need the same techniques to achieve the finished product. Thanks for your being so generous with your skills.
Thank you! And I did watch a lot of Lazze video's. He's great! I will check out Mustie1 upgrade video.
The Mustie1 upgrade: th-cam.com/video/kANvNkBwfnU/w-d-xo.html
Good video! I bought one of them today and it needs some reinforcement. 👌
Voor je eigen versie een elektromotor met voetpedaal maken. Zo heb je altijd perfect zicht op je werkstuk. Mooie optie is als je de aansturing variabel kan maken zodat je snelheid kan variëren.
Ja klopt, mijn eigen versie krijgt zeker een motor met variabele snelheid en voetpedaal. Deze laat ik nog even handmatig.
It might help to get rid of the handle on the bead roller, and install a steering wheel from a wrecking yard. I saw this mod in another video, not my idea, so you are not reaching so far when you are using the machine. I have done it to my roller, for what it is worth... Great demo mudguard, by the way++++++++++
You truly are a craftsman!!
For your first time + the metal is thick not to bad , as they said in my apprentice days practice practice!
Thanks. And yes Practice will make it better. Fun fact is that the customer wanted to have a handmade look. I started with my pullmax to get a cleaner look but he didn't like that. It needed to have some inperfections.
Nice work, really enjoy your videos. But you dont need a beed roller, You have a Pullmax! Just make some dies and you can do all those things with the Pullmax. Great machine
Yes I know. I thought about it for some time but then decided to go for the bead roller. Its easier to make some costum dies and faster to experiment. And I thought the roller would be a little more controled. But I will definitly try the Pullmax to do the same.
So my question is: does the fender arc to fit the radius of the car tire? And does the fender have crown to make an arch over the tire perpendicular to the tire's diameter? If so you need to use your English wheel to crown the center and shrink the sides of the fender before you worry about a wired edge. Shrinking can be achieved in a variety of ways...even using simple hand tools.. also noticed that you used a Steel wire on an aluminum panel... unless you completely isolate any contact between the two dissimilar metals.. you will cause galvanic corrosion... you need to coat the wire so that the coating doesn't flake off during fabrication or use an aluminum wire.. not trying to be critical...just helpful... very cool looking car...just want you to be successful. I have a pullmax too but haven't had the time to really play with it. Metal shaping is a mysterious art but totally attainable with a little knowledge. Best of luck, and judging by your skill set already exhibited you will figure it out.
Hi Jeff, thanks for taking the time to write this. If you watch some later video's you see the bead roller with modifications and a video about making the fenders. I did a lot of testing on this what would be the best way to make it. I have an English wheel and shrinker. The fender is straight from front view (U shape down but not round the tire shape) and only sharp corners from the side view. I tried stretching and shrinking but the bent was to sharp. So I needed to weld the bent and make the wire edge first. About the wire brush, you are right. I use a stainless one that is dedicate to aluminum. That works fine. I still need some more time with the Pullmax. There is so much you can do with it but I need more experience with that and make different dies sets. But it is a very nice machine.
Although it has been quite a while since your post I thought I would respond to your comment. The chance of galvanic corrosion does exist with dissimilar metals like steel and aluminum but typically is accelerated by electrical current passing through the materials. This aluminum fender steel wire assembly will last literally for decades if not for a century before the need for inspection may be necessary. Galvanic corrosion is typically only a problem with aluminum wing spars with titanium bolts retaining them to the airframe. Even in this application it takes decades to create a significant issue as has been proven by the aircraft industry. I'm sure you're a great guy but this vid is about the bead roller and not really the place for an in depth discussion of a rarely destructive event even when used for decades or until the steel itself would have rusted to the point of destruction. Do you seriously think parts like this are produced with some kind of magic plating that won't scratch when formed like this by auto manufacturers?
Try annealing the aluminum first with a o/a torch and that will make bending easier...
Thanks, I will give it a try.
Bart, the link that AJ Kolodziejski provided to Mustie1's videos, includes an unboxing video of a similar tool to yours. However, though its hard to be sure only from the video, the backplate of that tool looks to be substantially thicker plate, and in the video, the upper arm does not deflect anywhere near as much as yours does. I suspect your version has been "value engineered" to the point of almost non functionality. Your tool seems to be crying out for a substantial angle iron reinforcement welded along the top of the backplate. As far as I can see that would not interfere with the operation.
Thanks, and yes I will weld some heavy iron on the side of the frame and do some more modification to make it more usable.
I beams their beautiful critters. On 2nd thought I'm thinking square tubing
What type of plastic did you use for your custom rounding Dies ?
Thanks, I did learn something.
Just curious, but if you bevel the edges, I bet that mark would pretty much disappear. Just in case you wanna use these dies with your version.
Thanks. Yes it would help a little bit. I already made the fenders and it worked fine. I just had to be careful not to put to much pressure on the dies.
@@bartharkemametalworks2299 awesome, I will do that also, if they're like that on mine. Thanks for the feedback
good job👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks!
Check out "jere kirkpatrick valley forge welding". He is a beadroller guru and has a lot of tips and mods
Yes I did see some of his video's. He did some nice modifications and its a nice channel.
Motorize that thing... 😉 with a foot pedal so you have two hands to control your work.
👍👍👍🌹