What is really nice about this particular video demo compared to others showing the same technique is the clarity of the camera work. Image is well focused and lighting is excellent. Well demonstrated, Alan.
Hi Alan, I am already familiar with this method of precise compound angle setting but it is really nice to see it demonstrated so clearly. I'm sure there will be a good number of viewers who find this helpful. I have a very similar inaccuracy with a ER32 holder I own. It has been on the to do list to set the tool post grinder up and correct it for a while now. I think you may have persuaded me to get it done. Look forward to the next installment in this series👍
Alan, many thanks for your help in sorting out my ER32 collets. I've bored my holder to 8 degrees, set up using your method and changed the collet nut. I've gone from a run-out of 6 thou on my 10mm collet to within 1 thou!
Very nicely explained Alan, this is going to solve a lot of my frustration because my mini lathe's compound vernier is really hit and miss. Thanks for taking the time and effort to post this.
Gday Alan, Mathematics and myself aren’t the best of friends but I think I could work this out after see this “the manual way not the internet way that is”, I’ll probably watch this a few more times to really get my head around it but this would most likely be the best way I’ve seen this explained, thanks Alan
i pretty well much keep my saddle locked at... wow, i forget its been so long. 6ish degrees fro the 1:10. do all my angles with a taper turner at the back, or a straightedge clamped to the cross-slide and a stop. i am yet to see anyone else do a steep taper with a taper turner at right angles... its just profiling... use a linkage instead of a stop and it does arcs...
That's one way, I guess but very slow? I use an inexpensive angle block set. Hold the block to the side of the compound slide with a magnet and indicate the block to zero. Simple eh?
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What is really nice about this particular video demo compared to others showing the same technique is the clarity of the camera work. Image is well focused and lighting is excellent. Well demonstrated, Alan.
I'm impressed as to how accurate your compound markings where already, nice little tutorial 👍
Hi Alan, I am already familiar with this method of precise compound angle setting but it is really nice to see it demonstrated so clearly. I'm sure there will be a good number of viewers who find this helpful. I have a very similar inaccuracy with a ER32 holder I own. It has been on the to do list to set the tool post grinder up and correct it for a while now. I think you may have persuaded me to get it done. Look forward to the next installment in this series👍
Good idea, Alan. Joe has a lot of excellent tips on his channel for the machinist.
Alan, many thanks for your help in sorting out my ER32 collets. I've bored my holder to 8 degrees, set up using your method and changed the collet nut. I've gone from a run-out of 6 thou on my 10mm collet to within 1 thou!
Very nicely explained Alan, this is going to solve a lot of my frustration because my mini lathe's compound vernier is really hit and miss. Thanks for taking the time and effort to post this.
Excellent. Just the way we did it back in the day.
Gday Alan, Mathematics and myself aren’t the best of friends but I think I could work this out after see this “the manual way not the internet way that is”, I’ll probably watch this a few more times to really get my head around it but this would most likely be the best way I’ve seen this explained, thanks Alan
Great description! Looking forward to the grind! Thanks for sharing
Looking forward to the next part! That is a great method to set up angles!
There is a nice little app for iPhone, called ‘right angle’, you fill in any two boxes and it fills the remaining two boxes.
Really useful. Many thanks
Awesome
Great info!
very good
Great video Alan. Will be following this closely as my er32 collets are very reluctant to let go, maybe this will be the solution. Thanks👍
i pretty well much keep my saddle locked at... wow, i forget its been so long. 6ish degrees fro the 1:10.
do all my angles with a taper turner at the back, or a straightedge clamped to the cross-slide and a stop. i am yet to see anyone else do a steep taper with a taper turner at right angles... its just profiling...
use a linkage instead of a stop and it does arcs...
That's one way, I guess but very slow?
I use an inexpensive angle block set. Hold the block to the side of the compound slide with a magnet and indicate the block to zero. Simple eh?
Interessanter Beitrag. Thank you
Frage: wie wäre die rote Filzstiftmarkierung wenn die Überwurfmutter leicht angezogen ist?
Ich weiß nicht, wie die Spannzange in die Bohrung gezwungen wird