Really like the channel. Very interesting. As a fully qualified veteran motor engineer dating back to the 1972 era I was weened on early Fords and all things BMC and beyond. Setting up MGB's, Mini Coopers, Lotus Cortina's, 'E' Types, Triumph TR's & P.I's and anything else that had a multiple carburettor/ induction set-up was right up my street and something I specialised in on a daily basis utilising my trusty Sun Tester 1120 diagnostic machine of the period.🙂 These PCV valves on the MGB's & Mini Coopers/'S' were always a very neglected service item. First job on any such vehicle with a running problem was to strip and clean these out, check the hoses for internal collapse and splits then reassemble and test with a new rubber diaphragm. Inlet manifold leaks, worn S.U throttle spindles, poorly adjusted dwell angle, timing and carburettor balancing/tuning will cause all sorts of running issues and in this particular scenario inappropriate wear/bedding in of newly machined components. The concern your client is complaining about has got nothing whatsoever to do with your engine machining and rebuild. It appears to be entirely due to installation of poorly maintained/calibrated ancillaries such as carburettors and the way the engine has been set up/tuned on completion. The oil contamination, shadowing on the piston rings and bore glazing of a newly machined engine are all classic signs of over fuelling/poorly tuned engine. This scenario is no different to having new tyres fitted to a car and then taking it back to the tyre shop 20 miles later complaining about a puncture!!🙄 Please, don't stand for any such buck passing or BS. All the best
@@baldrick1905 Agreed with everything you said except for the bit about "PCV" verses " Pollution Control Valve " as a description. Sorry but PCV is perfectly correct. It's simply the acronym for it, like "LCD" for "Liquid Crystal Display" or a million other things we use an acronym of the first letter of each word, that's something we do with a hell of a lot of things and it saves a lot of typing or wordy conversations when everyone knows exactly what it refers to.
@@baldrick1905 I get you but, it is in that acronym. If it wasn't we'd be calling them "PC Valves" rather than "PCV". It was something that bugged me every time I heard anyone describe an "LCD TV" as and "LCD Display" since that's what the "D" is for, here the "V" already stands for "Valve" so is superfluous. You've just got to remind yourself that each of those letters represents a whole word and the "V" already says valve.
A blind man can see the PCV valve is directly on the inlet manifold, if the ''garage mechanic'' was a mechanic the first thing he should have done was remove the PCV valve, blank the manifold hole off and run the engine, then he would have seen the carbs would have tuned perfectly and the smoke would have soon stopped, been there and done that myself on more than one occasion.
Good on you mate for Not taking on useless sponsors . Youre a Very Honest man and we Love that about you . Last thing you or anyone want is to see you go down that road and end up losing the most important thing, something money cant buy ..... Respect and Trust . Cheers
When an engine is running very rich at higher throttle positions fuel will go down the bores, the bores will glaze and the rings will wear precisely in the way those shown in the video have. There was clearly nothing wrong with your engine build, whatsoever. They caused ALL ISSUES THEMSELVES by the faulty valve and the associated mistuning of the carbs. Still I don´t think it looked all that serious. A functioning valve, properly tuned carbs, new oil and that engine would have worn in quite alright, and ran fully well for many years.
I agree about not sending the engine back to the garage in parts - who knows what they will do during re-assembly and the customer is caught up in the middle not knowing what is going on or why!
Lee, I am not a licensed mechanic nor do I play one on TV, but considering the very low mileage on the engine and the fact that it was running so rich that the colorization on the rings indicates that they haven't yet broken in and that along with the broken PCV could account for the smoking problem. So until the rings break in and a new PCV is installed the damn engine is going to pump oil into the combustion chambers and burn it i.e. smoke.
Regardless of what the engineer says, I know for a fact any and all the problems on the engine stem from the pcv valve, I've seen this a good few times back in the day. It's a crying shame you'll end up out of pocket but if the customer is a decent fella I can understand why you feel the need to do right for him. Those rings would probably still bedded in fine if the fueling was sorted, but what can you do in this position.
How can a PCV be drawing that much oil fumes or fuel vapour if the rings are good. Even if it was faulty why would there be that much fumes in the crank case. Also, if it was vacuuming the crank that extremely why was oil running out the side covers...
Those top compression rings on the mgb show classic overfuelling marks because the excess fuel dilutes the oil it causes ring and bore ware usually mainly at the top of the bore if unchecked for a while you end up with the piston vertical groove wearing and that makes for all kinds of problems with oil consumption. Its vital that you get the valve under control and the carbs set correctly otherwise a rebuild will waste your time and money
Hi Can't remember if I said it before about the mg's oil it's very black for only 59 miles that doesn't happen with a clean build did somone use an oil additive like molyslip? If so that would prevent proper bedding in of the ring pack
Cut out the waffle and test the pcb valve. It simply acts due to differential pressure across the top and bottom of the valve diaphragm, so it doesn't care whether it is on the engine, under vacuum, or anything other than the pressure being up the 1bar higher on one side compared to the other. So put it on an air compressor with normal air pressure on one side and normal air pressure plus up to 1bar on the other side. Then compare what it does as with a brand new valve. 1.8bar = overrun; 1.4bar=idle/cruise;1bar =wot, all assuming you have 1bar on the other side of the valve. The fact that it is "sucking" when on the engine but you are testing by "pushing" on the other side is irrelevant -it's the differential in the pressure on both sides which makes it open or close.
the valve functions fine...when the diaphragm seals not when its folded and not sealing like it was when they opened it for inspection....they would not reassemble it broken lol...i guess you missed the episode where they disassembled the engine.
It's VISUALLY OBVIOUSLY stuffed. No point "testing" when it's very obviously no good. This customer just can't deal with facts and the place that pulled the engine out and sent it for work didn't check it.
So a 30 thou rebore in order to clean the bores up correctly and new pistons with rings that don't look like thrupenny bits, and new crankshells, hopefully fitted with something like Graphegene or similar assembly paste to prevent galling. But at least you got the crankshaft the right way round for them this time 🤣
On the e90, the fault is more than likely rusty scabs on the rear outer drive shaft joints causing the abs reluctor rings to swell. This causes the air gap from the wheel speed sensor to disappear.
Back in the late 60s, early 70s, new Volvos were equipped with Zenith-Stromberg carbs. We had a rash of brand-new engines flooded with gasoline due to faulty float bowl valves. Even after changing the oil and installing new float valves, these new engines often consumed too much oil and had to be re-ringed. Lots of irritated owners that wanted new engines.
Bought a Carly code reader a long time ago, but my MG is not evan on the list, so need to check before buying, thanks to the inspector, for independent assesment
MGB - there are about three different dipstick/tube in block combinations, and things can get mixed up together over time.. Shove the sump etc on, and put the exact of amount of oil in, and see what the dipstick says. Can tell then if overfilling has been happening..
Re the MG engine. Is the block pocketed? And yes do check the dip stick and if it has an oil cooler. We had one that was burning oil and the pockets on the block in conjunction with the style of piston the engine builder used, meant the top ring was above the pocket allowing oil to be burnt. The other issue we had which was an oil pressure issue was that the dipstick was wrong and therefore the engine didn’t have enough oil in it and despite a baffled sump, it meant the pick up didn’t have any oil to pick up under heavy braking and cornering.
Hi Lee, that oil should be almost as clean as it came out container with 50 miles on it, the over fueling causes bore washing, making the oil so dirty so quickly. if it was the rings the oil would be still clean ish, in the 70s i used gunson glass spark plugs, carb balancers and a Ti crypton tuner, to set engines up, worked a treat, now there is a lot of guess work tuners out their when it comes to older engines. no plug ins for laptop tuners.😁
or simply put a wideband lambda up the exhaust and know exactly what’s going on - which is far better than a colourtune which is all we had 30 years ago - but things have moved on
Wow! ( regarding the warranty issue ) I can not really understand how much Farer you could be, you have nearly bent over backwards to investigate and or resolve the issue or issues with this engine. For me from my own personal experiences from using engineering shops, I feel they could learn a lot from you, ie in how to use your negotiation skills in warranty claims.
Oil viscosity, Oil quantity, and needle position in the SU carb slide valves would be something to investigate. Been there done that with my MGB and Midgets/Sprites.
How's this fit your breather engine. *Breath valve broken so carbs set rich. *Rich mixture dilutes oil and the rich soot changes oil colour and gives you bore washing. *Bore washing marks the rings and glazes the bores. *Thinner oil will get burnt more easily adding to the valve also breathing heavily from its broken parts. The extra fuel will also smell in the petrol. I dud something similar when i over jetted a carb, and the engine started breathing more heavily, fixed after rejet and oil change, oil had been new to start with.
My MGB engine exhibited a similar problem caused by fuel wash. Diagnosed by a step worn in the top ring. The excessive fueling may have been caused by the PCV. An ex-Abingdon employee had dealt with several engines like this. His suggestion was to re-ring and run the engine in with a lot of throttle!
There's nothing wrong with doing sponsor ads. I appreciate that you want to keep the sponsors down to industry related stuff though. Anything but RAID SHADOW LEGENDS.
So the advert for how great Carly is showed a fault code that is either a) steering angle sensor b) lateral acceleration sensor or c) a rear wheel speed sensor. At least if you asked on a facebook group, each person would only give you one guess. It's generally a great example why you'd want to throw carly in the bin.
I would advise you to remove that PCV valve. After I had my car overbored to 1933cc it would never stop smoking. It seemed to fill up with oil on a light throttle then dump into the inlet manifold as you accelerated, like a smokescreen. Cleaning the valve, fitting a new one and changing to the later style tappet chest collector cover had no effect. It now has a small Pipercross filter over the breather with the pipe run so oil will drain back into the crankcase plus obviously the port on the manifold sealed. It works well, you don't get crankcase fumes it doesn't burn oil and the crankcase isn't pressurised. I wouldn't recommend taking MGB engine bores out that far now, I think the block lozenges a bit at high BMEPs.
Interesting things here. I hope to see the MGB engine clearly sorted out. If all the machining clearances are OK, then it must be an external valve/breather problem. On a technical point, The torque is not foot pounds, it is pounds feet! I know many call it foot pounds, but torque is force x distance. You call the metric equivalent correctly as Newton Metres which is Force x distance.
Any good mechanic who put a new engine in a car that had blue smoke on the overrun would go through the whole breather system anyways as a matter of diagnosing to see if it's functioning correctly and should have known there was a problem when he couldn't set up and balance the carbs even just blank off the inlet manifold where the PCV valve attaches to, then take it for a run to see if it smoked on overrun and see if he could balance the carbs and set the mixture.
It seems the inspector added nothing. Interested to see if you find anything wrong with your work, personally I doubt it, especially when you know there is a serious fault elsewhere. Id be astonished if the pcv was corrected there was still a problem.
Do you use torque plates when honing the block? If not, you will have block distortion when the head is installed. Then the rings can not seal in an out of round cylinder.
+1 on the over fueling. While the fuel in the oil is continuously evaporating while the oil sample is exposed to open air, sending the oil in for analysis by a laboratory would tell you very quickly as to whether or not there is a high level of fuel in the oil. If there is a load of fuel in the oil, that clears your name.
Oil through the inlet tract, is not as issue. Put a new finnish on the bores, pop it back together. Run the car up on a dyno for an hr, increase the load and rpm. At the end of an hr that old mgb should be giving 60ish hp by 4000 rpm. Check for leaks etc. Re- set the idle and mixture. Send it out, for the guy to enjoy. All those problems have been caused by folks playing when they shouldn't
We had loads of smoking problems from early MGBs with the diaphragm breather valves when the diaphragm rips. But however I have noticed on your valve on the inlet manifold has a tooth missing ( broken off) there should be four. This will cause a misalignment of the internal valve.
They did mention that and in one of the earlier videos on this. But well spotted. The first video you see how bad it was with the valve and the diaphram.
I really like watching your Chanel Lee and I’ve been a sub for ages now. I’m starting to get the impression that some customers are jumping on the warranty / claim bandwagon, I don’t like getting an independent opinion to scrutinise your work because if you and your Barum engine team are 100% confident and happy with your work send the moaning customers packing your not going to loos in the long run because them types of customers are worthless to any business 🤷♂️
I think the engineer was a bit overly generous to the customer here, especially since that super rich running probably explains that slightly odd ring wear.
ring tension does not create the psi needed for the sealing/bedding of the rings psi(from combustion) does I would give him a set of rings, require a good PCV (the cause of the glazing and shape rings due to over fueling), check the dipstick length, and charge him for the refresh
I can't understand how anyone can disregard the state that MGB pcv is in. Its obvious it is not going to do what it is intended to and will cause problems with carburation and engine breathing. Surely the proof is the state of that oil. Also, as a matter of interest, you mentioned the length of the dipstick. The Austin Maxi engine had a tendancy to burn oil, the cure was to overfill the engine.
Uh-oh! "Problem with the Dynamic Stability Control"...that's the driver! It's fully understandable for the need of a sponsor to cover your costs for producing this channel. And I agree, if that's to be done, then best it be something you use and recommend whether sponsored or not. Carly is actually a very usable product, and they chose you well as you chose them. It's perfectly in tune with your viewers. Kudos on your diplomatic and professional response on the MGB. You look good on that. And on that point, you look younger and fitter since your knee-op. Sometimes these things can be a tap on the shoulder to take better care of yourself. You look ten years younger! Paul's VR6 vid is deeply satisfying. Smoother movement of the cam, excellent dialog, excellent job.
If the breathers are not working then this can pressure the crankcase forcing oil past the rings I had a rover doing this it just needed the breathers sorted
The problem lies entirely with the owner if he removed his head from his rectum and actually just listened for a moment he'd understand its the pcb valve at fault. Charge him the 4 hours labour Lee to strip and rebuild the engine. BTW, Vauxhalls are renowned for it. The pcb diaphragm splits and the engine smokes. Its easier to just replace the complete cam cover on these but the problem of smoking is solved instantly..
An independent inspection is just some one else’s opinion, if I was there I would give you my opinion and charge you nothing. That VR6 Tensioner doesn’t look like it will last long. Thanks for the vid.
After watching more of the video, he DID NOT use the TTY procedure. Just split the torque procedure into 3 steps which is quite appropriate. I'll go stand in the corner now.
I really don`t understand why you, or somebody, didn`t test the PCV valve, or fit a new one, in the first place. Surely that`s the simplest and easiest thing to do first. Anyone who knows anything about A or B series engines knows that they need lots of breathing. Personally I would bin the valve and just use at least 3 breathers into a catch tank.
hard call with many factors, it must not be an easy situation . i think if it were my name on the bill and in this situation.. original bill must be satisfied the work and costs were incurred. the other garage should either pay for the engineer or the new rings as it was there insistence it wasnt a pcv issue. you want to reassemble the engine so should eat those charges for the labor, but customer or other garage should be responsible for consumables . i dont think the customer should bear the majority of the new incurred costs as he got an incorrectly functioning engine and was given incorrect information as to its cause, you did what you were asked and correctly, the garage seems to be the one at "fault" they should bear the responsibility in my opinion. thanks for the videos
50 miles on the clock of your mg engine plus about 2+ hours on the tuning rig maybe more either way it won’t help if it’s been left ticking over for any length of time
The Carly diagnostic system is supposed to be very good. I looked at it before I bought my GAPII D system I didn't get the Carly for one reason and one reason only. They don't tell you upfront that the cost ( around £75) was a Yearly charge which I think is a bloody cheek. My GAP11 was not cheap( £400) but that's a one off payment and that's it, you can download any updates etc at any time. So I went that way. I would have rather paid £400 upfront and have done with it. That's my two penneth worth!
Sounds good except unless I was looking at the wrong thing somehow when I googled that "GAP ll D" it showed me a device that ONLY works for the Land and Rangerover series of cars while the Carly thing works for my Nissan Pathfinder and probably most other brands too from what I could tell.
You do know if fuel is going down the bores and into the sump the bores will glaze and the rings will wear without bedding in properly. 50 miles, I still don't think it's a Barum Engines issue.
I would put new rings in it, pistons and a bore if needed. Run engine on known good EGR for break in. Turn over for install Be present at start up with that same EGR if it still smokes than the problem is the EGR and they pay for all additional work and parts. If they disagree show them the break in video with good parts on a known good EGR, that is the only way to CYA and find out if you were the problem. The excessive fuel washed the walls glazing cylinder and the amount of fuel was pushing tops of rings away from wall wearing an irregular wear pattern on ring sides. The discoloration is normal wear, the shine spot on ring is cylinder wall contact also the Glazer and where there is no wear the rings were floating due excessive fuel in combination with compression being pushed past the rings and now glazed walls into the oil pan making oil excessively dirty and smell like fuel. Lucky it did not fluid lock and bead rods and more expensive parts. Had the same thing happen on a new EFI conversion, fuel washed walls glazed cylinder started smoking, rings looked just like that. Best of Luck. Oh, this an opinion, everyone has one just like everyone has a bumm and they stink! Including mine!
I'm surprised people are so averse to paid promotions. They are a great way to fund a channel and really easy to skip using the slider, unlike google pre roll and mid roll ads. If you wanted to shill ball shavers and crotch deodorant I'm all for it. (just wear a different colour top when you do the promo so it's easy to tell when scrubbing through when it starts and finishes). Also, have you thought of Amazon affiliate links. If you find a cool tool, add an affiliate links to the description. Who isn't into buying that life saving gadget that sits at the back of the tool box until that one time when you think 'thank truck I bought that!!!'...he who dies with the most tools wins, right?
Scratchy, uneven wear on the rings, slightly glazed bores, oil on top of the pistons, fuel odour from the oil and dirty oil all together points to fuel-washed cylinders. Every engine I've done had cleaner oil than that at 1000 miles and as you know, there shouldn't be any fuel odour to oil. The intake may be clean of oil for the same reason, fuel wash.
I know that the days of the British empire are long gone but your videos are released a day ahead here in the antipodes so if you could just move your calander a day on when you introduce the video it would be much appreciated.
I couldn’t imagine trying to be in the buisness of rebuilding engines that are know to suck, at least from an an American perspective, most of our available engines can be reringed and do another 100k miles with little complaint
At 7:54 you can see that one of the four "teeth" inside the pcv valve is broken off. Where did the piece go? That piece would be perfect size to jam the valve......
the missing tooth is certainly not helping with the correct function of the valve - potentially valve never fully closing as the plunger can tilt to one side?
@@fuelrail So since the engine contained all new and to-spec parts and the customer re-used broken parts, the argument is over. Not Barums fault regardless of how the rings looked when half way bedded in. Customer should pay for diagnostics and reassembly since it is their fault.
I would just tell the customer we will replace the rings and do everything on our end but if you don't replace that PCV valve and it still smokes don't bother contacting us again and all Warranty claims will be ignored. As for them wanting the engine back in bits, they want it back like that so they can see that you have changed the rings on it so to me it looks like either the customer doesn't trust you to change them or his garage has put that into his head because it's probably something he would do so thinks everyone is like him, i don't care if owner or his garage sees my comment.
Early A and B series engines just had an open swan neck tube on that crankcase followers-pushrod cover - oil mist was just dumped on the road. That and truck diesel used to dissolve tarmac roads then.
tipical overfeuling on that mgb, And the smoke is from a bad pcv valve. Be sure you have the right dipstick in it, Do not overfil, There was a bulletin on these engines for the wrong, To short dipstick what also made it burn a lot of oil.. That pcv valve is junk and needs replacement tho you can adjust the carbs on idle, so it sounds ok, It is realy rich.. But they are way to rich iff the valve is stuck open or the diapram in it is leaking. The smoking has nothing to do (Or very little iff not fully run in.. ) whit the rings.. Over feuling is the cause. Fix the pcv valve, And let them adjust the carbs way leaner. Overfueling is the cause of the very dark oil after sutch a short run time... YOU CANT ADJUST THAT CARBS CORRECT IF THE PCV VALVE IS LEAKING!. That garage should know. The second opinion inspector is correct!
Really like the channel. Very interesting.
As a fully qualified veteran motor engineer dating back to the 1972 era I was weened on early Fords and all things BMC and beyond. Setting up MGB's, Mini Coopers, Lotus Cortina's, 'E' Types, Triumph TR's & P.I's and anything else that had a multiple carburettor/ induction set-up was right up my street and something I specialised in on a daily basis utilising my trusty Sun Tester 1120 diagnostic machine of the period.🙂
These PCV valves on the MGB's & Mini Coopers/'S' were always a very neglected service item. First job on any such vehicle with a running problem was to strip and clean these out, check the hoses for internal collapse and splits then reassemble and test with a new rubber diaphragm.
Inlet manifold leaks, worn S.U throttle spindles, poorly adjusted dwell angle, timing and carburettor balancing/tuning will cause all sorts of running issues and in this particular scenario inappropriate wear/bedding in of newly machined components.
The concern your client is complaining about has got nothing whatsoever to do with your engine machining and rebuild. It appears to be entirely due to installation of poorly maintained/calibrated ancillaries such as carburettors and the way the engine has been set up/tuned on completion.
The oil contamination, shadowing on the piston rings and bore glazing of a newly machined engine are all classic signs of over fuelling/poorly tuned engine.
This scenario is no different to having new tyres fitted to a car and then taking it back to the tyre shop 20 miles later complaining about a puncture!!🙄 Please, don't stand for any such buck passing or BS.
All the best
Auto expert thank you
I absolutely agree with your diagnosis sir.
@@baldrick1905 Agreed with everything you said except for the bit about "PCV" verses " Pollution Control Valve " as a description. Sorry but PCV is perfectly correct. It's simply the acronym for it, like "LCD" for "Liquid Crystal Display" or a million other things we use an acronym of the first letter of each word, that's something we do with a hell of a lot of things and it saves a lot of typing or wordy conversations when everyone knows exactly what it refers to.
@@baldrick1905 I get you but, it is in that acronym. If it wasn't we'd be calling them "PC Valves" rather than "PCV". It was something that bugged me every time I heard anyone describe an "LCD TV" as and "LCD Display" since that's what the "D" is for, here the "V" already stands for "Valve" so is superfluous. You've just got to remind yourself that each of those letters represents a whole word and the "V" already says valve.
@Dave Stennett PCV Valve is the correct description. PCV is Positive Crankcase Ventilation, the valve is what controls it.
A blind man can see the PCV valve is directly on the inlet manifold, if the ''garage mechanic'' was a mechanic the first thing he should have done was remove the PCV valve, blank the manifold hole off and run the engine, then he would have seen the carbs would have tuned perfectly and the smoke would have soon stopped, been there and done that myself on more than one occasion.
Good on you mate for Not taking on useless sponsors . Youre a Very Honest man and we Love that about you . Last thing you or anyone want is to see you go down that road and end up losing the most important thing, something money cant buy ..... Respect and Trust . Cheers
When an engine is running very rich at higher throttle positions fuel will go down the bores, the bores will glaze and the rings will wear precisely in the way those shown in the video have.
There was clearly nothing wrong with your engine build, whatsoever. They caused ALL ISSUES THEMSELVES by the faulty valve and the associated mistuning of the carbs.
Still I don´t think it looked all that serious. A functioning valve, properly tuned carbs, new oil and that engine would have worn in quite alright, and ran fully well for many years.
Spot on, it's bore washed itself from first turn of the key.
Perhaps a light hone and then use the same rings, fix the PCV valve and Bob's your uncle.
I agree about not sending the engine back to the garage in parts - who knows what they will do during re-assembly and the customer is caught up in the middle not knowing what is going on or why!
Lee, I am not a licensed mechanic nor do I play one on TV, but considering the very low mileage on the engine and the fact that it was running so rich that the colorization on the rings indicates that they haven't yet broken in and that along with the broken PCV could account for the smoking problem. So until the rings break in and a new PCV is installed the damn engine is going to pump oil into the combustion chambers and burn it i.e. smoke.
The only issue with an 'independent' inspection is that there opinion depends on whose paying.
Both pay 50%, so it should be fair.
Regardless of what the engineer says, I know for a fact any and all the problems on the engine stem from the pcv valve, I've seen this a good few times back in the day. It's a crying shame you'll end up out of pocket but if the customer is a decent fella I can understand why you feel the need to do right for him.
Those rings would probably still bedded in fine if the fueling was sorted, but what can you do in this position.
Diplomacy and good business practice is based on more than that.
Has the pcv valve caused the ring issue?
If it went to court , the court would use the engineers report as evidence,
How can a PCV be drawing that much oil fumes or fuel vapour if the rings are good. Even if it was faulty why would there be that much fumes in the crank case. Also, if it was vacuuming the crank that extremely why was oil running out the side covers...
@@robertburrows6612 Yup, but even the engineer hedged his bets on what it was. Just one of those things.
Those top compression rings on the mgb show classic overfuelling marks because the excess fuel dilutes the oil it causes ring and bore ware usually mainly at the top of the bore if unchecked for a while you end up with the piston vertical groove wearing and that makes for all kinds of problems with oil consumption. Its vital that you get the valve under control and the carbs set correctly otherwise a rebuild will waste your time and money
Hi
Can't remember if I said it before about the mg's oil it's very black for only 59 miles that doesn't happen with a clean build did somone use an oil additive like molyslip? If so that would prevent proper bedding in of the ring pack
Cut out the waffle and test the pcb valve.
It simply acts due to differential pressure across the top and bottom of the valve diaphragm, so it doesn't care whether it is on the engine, under vacuum, or anything other than the pressure being up the 1bar higher on one side compared to the other. So put it on an air compressor with normal air pressure on one side and normal air pressure plus up to 1bar on the other side. Then compare what it does as with a brand new valve. 1.8bar = overrun; 1.4bar=idle/cruise;1bar =wot, all assuming you have 1bar on the other side of the valve. The fact that it is "sucking" when on the engine but you are testing by "pushing" on the other side is irrelevant -it's the differential in the pressure on both sides which makes it open or close.
Auto expert appreciated 👍
the valve functions fine...when the diaphragm seals not when its folded and not sealing like it was when they opened it for inspection....they would not reassemble it broken lol...i guess you missed the episode where they disassembled the engine.
It's VISUALLY OBVIOUSLY stuffed. No point "testing" when it's very obviously no good. This customer just can't deal with facts and the place that pulled the engine out and sent it for work didn't check it.
PCV Positive crankcase ventilation. It doesn't do a lot, but it does have the potential to really mess up the tune if it isn't working.
As an auto electrician, carly "diagnosing" something is as likely as refacing with a bastard file.
Made by Weight Watchers 🐖🍔🍟🍰
Lol
Totally agree... especially the monthly costs. 🙄
So a 30 thou rebore in order to clean the bores up correctly and new pistons with rings that don't look like thrupenny bits, and new crankshells, hopefully fitted with something like Graphegene or similar assembly paste to prevent galling. But at least you got the crankshaft the right way round for them this time 🤣
On the e90, the fault is more than likely rusty scabs on the rear outer drive shaft joints causing the abs reluctor rings to swell. This causes the air gap from the wheel speed sensor to disappear.
Absolutely, it’s a massive common fault with them 👍
Back in the late 60s, early 70s, new Volvos were equipped with Zenith-Stromberg carbs. We had a rash of brand-new engines flooded with gasoline due to faulty float bowl valves. Even after changing the oil and installing new float valves, these new engines often consumed too much oil and had to be re-ringed. Lots of irritated owners that wanted new engines.
Bought a Carly code reader a long time ago, but my MG is not evan on the list, so need to check before buying, thanks to the inspector, for independent assesment
This video needs Paul McCartneys Check My Machine playing when there’s a Barum Balls Up or perusal of interest
MGB - there are about three different dipstick/tube in block combinations, and things can get mixed up together over time.. Shove the sump etc on, and put the exact of amount of oil in, and see what the dipstick says. Can tell then if overfilling has been happening..
A new PCV valve is about £70, why doesn't the customer just replace the thing?
Got an independent inspector in to smell the oil. He said it could be anything. Money well spent.
No actually the engineer deemed the bores to be bored to large so they're having to put new pistons and rings in. He won't show that though. 😂
@@Karsandklassics the bores measure fine
@@Karsandklassics ouch! If you cannot show that comment is in fact true, a good lawyer will take 20 odd K out of your pocket for slander
@@IsaacBarum no they didn't 😂. He just can't bare to tell people he messed up
@@Karsandklassics you know that do you?
Another great video Lee. I just wanted to let you know that I like the new picture of the blue engine as Barum engine logo!!
Re the MG engine. Is the block pocketed?
And yes do check the dip stick and if it has an oil cooler.
We had one that was burning oil and the pockets on the block in conjunction with the style of piston the engine builder used, meant the top ring was above the pocket allowing oil to be burnt.
The other issue we had which was an oil pressure issue was that the dipstick was wrong and therefore the engine didn’t have enough oil in it and despite a baffled sump, it meant the pick up didn’t have any oil to pick up under heavy braking and cornering.
Hi Lee, that oil should be almost as clean as it came out container with 50 miles on it, the over fueling causes bore washing, making the oil so dirty so quickly. if it was the rings the oil would be still clean ish, in the 70s i used gunson glass spark plugs, carb balancers and a Ti crypton tuner, to set engines up, worked a treat, now there is a lot of guess work tuners out their when it comes to older engines. no plug ins for laptop tuners.😁
or simply put a wideband lambda up the exhaust and know exactly what’s going on - which is far better than a colourtune which is all we had 30 years ago - but things have moved on
loved watching the engine build.
Wow! ( regarding the warranty issue ) I can not really understand how much Farer you could be, you have nearly bent over backwards to investigate and or resolve the issue or issues with this engine.
For me from my own personal experiences from using engineering shops, I feel they could learn a lot from you, ie in how to use your negotiation skills in warranty claims.
Oil viscosity, Oil quantity, and needle position in the SU carb slide valves would be something to investigate. Been there done that with my MGB and Midgets/Sprites.
How's this fit your breather engine.
*Breath valve broken so carbs set rich.
*Rich mixture dilutes oil and the rich soot changes oil colour and gives you bore washing.
*Bore washing marks the rings and glazes the bores.
*Thinner oil will get burnt more easily adding to the valve also breathing heavily from its broken parts.
The extra fuel will also smell in the petrol.
I dud something similar when i over jetted a carb, and the engine started breathing more heavily, fixed after rejet and oil change, oil had been new to start with.
Thanks guys! Carly...wow where is it all heading.
My MGB engine exhibited a similar problem caused by fuel wash. Diagnosed by a step worn in the top ring. The excessive fueling may have been caused by the PCV. An ex-Abingdon employee had dealt with several engines like this. His suggestion was to re-ring and run the engine in with a lot of throttle!
There's nothing wrong with doing sponsor ads. I appreciate that you want to keep the sponsors down to industry related stuff though. Anything but RAID SHADOW LEGENDS.
So the advert for how great Carly is showed a fault code that is either a) steering angle sensor b) lateral acceleration sensor or c) a rear wheel speed sensor.
At least if you asked on a facebook group, each person would only give you one guess.
It's generally a great example why you'd want to throw carly in the bin.
I would advise you to remove that PCV valve. After I had my car overbored to 1933cc it would never stop smoking. It seemed to fill up with oil on a light throttle then dump into the inlet manifold as you accelerated, like a smokescreen. Cleaning the valve, fitting a new one and changing to the later style tappet chest collector cover had no effect. It now has a small Pipercross filter over the breather with the pipe run so oil will drain back into the crankcase plus obviously the port on the manifold sealed. It works well, you don't get crankcase fumes it doesn't burn oil and the crankcase isn't pressurised.
I wouldn't recommend taking MGB engine bores out that far now, I think the block lozenges a bit at high BMEPs.
Happy 4.08pm Friday to you too Lee
Are OBD systems (connections on up) the same in Europe and the U.S.?
Interesting things here. I hope to see the MGB engine clearly sorted out. If all the machining clearances are OK, then it must be an external valve/breather problem. On a technical point, The torque is not foot pounds, it is pounds feet! I know many call it foot pounds, but torque is force x distance. You call the metric equivalent correctly as Newton Metres which is Force x distance.
the result is the same. it does not depend on the order, Example: 2x5=10. 5x2=10.
force x distance = distance x force = torque
Halfway through your promo I got an advert for Sainsburys! 😠
Any good mechanic who put a new engine in a car that had blue smoke on the overrun would go through the whole breather system anyways as a matter of diagnosing to see if it's functioning correctly and should have known there was a problem when he couldn't set up and balance the carbs even just blank off the inlet manifold where the PCV valve attaches to, then take it for a run to see if it smoked on overrun and see if he could balance the carbs and set the mixture.
It seems the inspector added nothing. Interested to see if you find anything wrong with your work, personally I doubt it, especially when you know there is a serious fault elsewhere. Id be astonished if the pcv was corrected there was still a problem.
Interesting stuff enjoyed keep up the good work 👍
Do you use torque plates when honing the block? If not, you will have block distortion when the head is installed. Then the rings can not seal in an out of round cylinder.
if the inspector comes in and favors the engine problem caused by the customer, then the bill is the customers inc strip down charges
Am I missing something here???
Surely by disabling the PCV valve and venting it to atmosphere would prove whether that's the smoke issue ???
+1 on the over fueling. While the fuel in the oil is continuously evaporating while the oil sample is exposed to open air, sending the oil in for analysis by a laboratory would tell you very quickly as to whether or not there is a high level of fuel in the oil. If there is a load of fuel in the oil, that clears your name.
How long will that plastic timing chain guide thing last? Toyota 22re lasts about 180,000 miles.The replacement part is metal.
Oil through the inlet tract, is not as issue.
Put a new finnish on the bores, pop it back together. Run the car up on a dyno for an hr, increase the load and rpm. At the end of an hr that old mgb should be giving 60ish hp by 4000 rpm.
Check for leaks etc. Re- set the idle and mixture.
Send it out, for the guy to enjoy.
All those problems have been caused by folks playing when they shouldn't
Lovely to see more torque and less talk.
Also crankcase pressure problems can make the dipstick hover if bad enough. MGB.
Carly is great.
But what if I want to check a cars history before buying it? Vertically?
Or surf the Web like a shark?
I've always fancied myself as a Laird of the Scottish Highlands. If only there was a way of fulfilling my dreams......
Good vid question is forte liquid good for engines bmw in particular thanks
We had loads of smoking problems from early MGBs with the diaphragm breather valves when the diaphragm rips. But however I have noticed on your valve on the inlet manifold has a tooth missing ( broken off) there should be four. This will cause a misalignment of the internal valve.
They did mention that and in one of the earlier videos on this. But well spotted. The first video you see how bad it was with the valve and the diaphram.
is that engine considered a straight 6 or a V 6
I really like watching your Chanel Lee and I’ve been a sub for ages now. I’m starting to get the impression that some customers are jumping on the warranty / claim bandwagon, I don’t like getting an independent opinion to scrutinise your work because if you and your Barum engine team are 100% confident and happy with your work send the moaning customers packing your not going to loos in the long run because them types of customers are worthless to any business 🤷♂️
I think the engineer was a bit overly generous to the customer here, especially since that super rich running probably explains that slightly odd ring wear.
ring tension does not create the psi needed for the sealing/bedding of the rings psi(from combustion) does
I would give him a set of rings, require a good PCV (the cause of the glazing and shape rings due to over fueling), check the dipstick length, and charge him for the refresh
What oil was used ?
I can't understand how anyone can disregard the state that MGB pcv is in. Its obvious it is not going to do what it is intended to and will cause problems with carburation and engine breathing. Surely the proof is the state of that oil. Also, as a matter of interest, you mentioned the length of the dipstick. The Austin Maxi engine had a tendancy to burn oil, the cure was to overfill the engine.
Uh-oh! "Problem with the Dynamic Stability Control"...that's the driver!
It's fully understandable for the need of a sponsor to cover your costs for producing this channel. And I agree, if that's to be done, then best it be something you use and recommend whether sponsored or not. Carly is actually a very usable product, and they chose you well as you chose them. It's perfectly in tune with your viewers.
Kudos on your diplomatic and professional response on the MGB. You look good on that. And on that point, you look younger and fitter since your knee-op. Sometimes these things can be a tap on the shoulder to take better care of yourself. You look ten years younger!
Paul's VR6 vid is deeply satisfying. Smoother movement of the cam, excellent dialog, excellent job.
Description of Fault: Ethanol Reservoir Overfilled
If the breathers are not working then this can pressure the crankcase forcing oil past the rings I had a rover doing this it just needed the breathers sorted
The problem lies entirely with the owner if he removed his head from his rectum and actually just listened for a moment he'd understand its the pcb valve at fault.
Charge him the 4 hours labour Lee to strip and rebuild the engine.
BTW, Vauxhalls are renowned for it. The pcb diaphragm splits and the engine smokes. Its easier to just replace the complete cam cover on these but the problem of smoking is solved instantly..
Where is the link
VR6 build is very nice job so no more sweeping the floor you have done your apprenticeship😆
You should some T-shirts for sale with "ITS ALL BEEN DONE" on it
An independent inspection is just some one else’s opinion, if I was there I would give you my opinion and charge you nothing. That VR6 Tensioner doesn’t look like it will last long. Thanks for the vid.
I would like to know how much the vr6 rebuild cost
ARP studs torque-to-yield? That "turn another XX degrees" is procedure for TTY bolts which they want to stretch to X dimension.
Should mark them with 🖊 to get right stretch. Converting the 90 into a torque setting defeats the purpose.
@@sampsonsunny6298 You missed my point. I didn't think ARP made TTY studs. Period.
After watching more of the video, he DID NOT use the TTY procedure. Just split the torque procedure into 3 steps which is quite appropriate. I'll go stand in the corner now.
Ring wash. Fuel in the oil. PVC definitely. Carry on
What's the most dangerous part on a car. . . . The "Nut" that holds the steering wheel . . . . ha ha ha ha ha ha ha
Problem with doing rings and pcv valve is that you won't pin down the smoking gun, literally.
One bad customer cancels out numerous good customers , as Barum Engines know its damage limitation , good practice ..
I really don`t understand why you, or somebody, didn`t test the PCV valve, or fit a new one, in the first place. Surely that`s the simplest and easiest thing to do first. Anyone who knows anything about A or B series engines knows that they need lots of breathing. Personally I would bin the valve and just use at least 3 breathers into a catch tank.
hard call with many factors, it must not be an easy situation . i think if it were my name on the bill and in this situation.. original bill must be satisfied the work and costs were incurred. the other garage should either pay for the engineer or the new rings as it was there insistence it wasnt a pcv issue. you want to reassemble the engine so should eat those charges for the labor, but customer or other garage should be responsible for consumables . i dont think the customer should bear the majority of the new incurred costs as he got an incorrectly functioning engine and was given incorrect information as to its cause, you did what you were asked and correctly, the garage seems to be the one at "fault" they should bear the responsibility in my opinion. thanks for the videos
The fuel might have preferred one side of the cylinder washing away more oil on that side, causing uneven wear.
50 miles on the clock of your mg engine plus about 2+ hours on the tuning rig maybe more either way it won’t help if it’s been left ticking over for any length of time
The Carly diagnostic system is supposed to be very good. I looked at it before I bought my GAPII D system I didn't get the Carly for one reason and one reason only. They don't tell you upfront that the cost ( around £75) was a Yearly charge which I think is a bloody cheek. My GAP11 was not cheap( £400) but that's a one off payment and that's it, you can download any updates etc at any time. So I went that way. I would have rather paid £400 upfront and have done with it. That's my two penneth worth!
Sounds good except unless I was looking at the wrong thing somehow when I googled that "GAP ll D" it showed me a device that ONLY works for the Land and Rangerover series of cars while the Carly thing works for my Nissan Pathfinder and probably most other brands too from what I could tell.
My Audio All OK
Mmmm the off set 6 cylinder motor.....never seen one of those before....what engine is it please anybody.
Very interesting channel.
Vr6 a VW engine I think
Surely the fact that it was smoking before and is still smoking points to the valve. Sounds like the garage bloke is covering his arse
"Obviously"
You do know if fuel is going down the bores and into the sump the bores will glaze and the rings will wear without bedding in properly.
50 miles, I still don't think it's a Barum Engines issue.
Fuel isn't going down the bores though is it. It's them boring it too big. Man these comments are something else 😂
@@Karsandklassics Independent engineer should check the bore / piston sizes especially if it goes to court, ?
@@Me1234utube It's not going to court. That's the whole point of bending to accommodate all considerations. I guess you missed that...
How much is this cost of that broken valve? Only dump mechanic will not replaced a broken part. Must be the pride of the mechanic needed replacement.
Get a oil sample done, tells you allot
I would put new rings in it, pistons and a bore if needed. Run engine on known good EGR for break in. Turn over for install Be present at start up with that same EGR if it still smokes than the problem is the EGR and they pay for all additional work and parts. If they disagree show them the break in video with good parts on a known good EGR, that is the only way to CYA and find out if you were the problem. The excessive fuel washed the walls glazing cylinder and the amount of fuel was pushing tops of rings away from wall wearing an irregular wear pattern on ring sides. The discoloration is normal wear, the shine spot on ring is cylinder wall contact also the Glazer and where there is no wear the rings were floating due excessive fuel in combination with compression being pushed past the rings and now glazed walls into the oil pan making oil excessively dirty and smell like fuel. Lucky it did not fluid lock and bead rods and more expensive parts. Had the same thing happen on a new EFI conversion, fuel washed walls glazed cylinder started smoking, rings looked just like that. Best of Luck. Oh, this an opinion, everyone has one just like everyone has a bumm and they stink! Including mine!
I'm surprised people are so averse to paid promotions. They are a great way to fund a channel and really easy to skip using the slider, unlike google pre roll and mid roll ads. If you wanted to shill ball shavers and crotch deodorant I'm all for it. (just wear a different colour top when you do the promo so it's easy to tell when scrubbing through when it starts and finishes).
Also, have you thought of Amazon affiliate links. If you find a cool tool, add an affiliate links to the description. Who isn't into buying that life saving gadget that sits at the back of the tool box until that one time when you think 'thank truck I bought that!!!'...he who dies with the most tools wins, right?
Just pay for Premium. Get on with life.
@Gail Taylor unfortunately you still see the Paid Promotions which is a real pain
@@bobdavey1195 I FF past them.
Scratchy, uneven wear on the rings, slightly glazed bores, oil on top of the pistons, fuel odour from the oil and dirty oil all together points to fuel-washed cylinders. Every engine I've done had cleaner oil than that at 1000 miles and as you know, there shouldn't be any fuel odour to oil. The intake may be clean of oil for the same reason, fuel wash.
Driven 50 miles... to the chassis dyno?
Tbh, couldn't care less about sponsor ads as I never watch those segments on YT videos...
This guy is Maliciously damaging people's engines and then sending them out to spite them! Or so it seems??
Obd2 code reader is mainly for German car's but Very good to have 👍🏻,your videos are getting better and better keep it up 👍🏻😀💂🏻🇬🇧
Your carly gadget doesn't work on my mk1 escort or my 1990 golf rallye, i'm obd free thank god🤣
I know that the days of the British empire are long gone but your videos are released a day ahead here in the antipodes so if you could just move your calander a day on when you introduce the video it would be much appreciated.
I couldn’t imagine trying to be in the buisness of rebuilding engines that are know to suck, at least from an an American perspective, most of our available engines can be reringed and do another 100k miles with little complaint
At 7:54 you can see that one of the four "teeth" inside the pcv valve is broken off. Where did the piece go? That piece would be perfect size to jam the valve......
The broken teeth was In the pcv valve, it was shown in a earlier video.
the missing tooth is certainly not helping with the correct function of the valve - potentially valve never fully closing as the plunger can tilt to one side?
@@fuelrail So since the engine contained all new and to-spec parts and the customer re-used broken parts, the argument is over. Not Barums fault regardless of how the rings looked when half way bedded in.
Customer should pay for diagnostics and reassembly since it is their fault.
I would just tell the customer we will replace the rings and do everything on our end but if you don't replace that PCV valve and it still smokes don't bother contacting us again and all Warranty claims will be ignored.
As for them wanting the engine back in bits, they want it back like that so they can see that you have changed the rings on it so to me it looks like either the customer doesn't trust you to change them or his garage has put that into his head because it's probably something he would do so thinks everyone is like him, i don't care if owner or his garage sees my comment.
What you got here is just the blaming game if it was the pcv the garage is now trying to cover it's ass . 80 quid now has cost a fortune
That treacle only done 40 - 50 miles my arse.
As they say, never buy a car of a mechanic lol 🤦♂️🤣
Early A and B series engines just had an open swan neck tube on that crankcase followers-pushrod cover - oil mist was just dumped on the road. That and truck diesel used to dissolve tarmac roads then.
100 present, the brether valve, will smoke more than counsel estate chafe,😁😁😁😁😁😁 ( 40 years in job, but still learning)
tipical overfeuling on that mgb, And the smoke is from a bad pcv valve. Be sure you have the right dipstick in it, Do not overfil, There was a bulletin on these engines for the wrong, To short dipstick what also made it burn a lot of oil.. That pcv valve is junk and needs replacement tho you can adjust the carbs on idle, so it sounds ok, It is realy rich.. But they are way to rich iff the valve is stuck open or the diapram in it is leaking. The smoking has nothing to do (Or very little iff not fully run in.. ) whit the rings.. Over feuling is the cause. Fix the pcv valve, And let them adjust the carbs way leaner. Overfueling is the cause of the very dark oil after sutch a short run time... YOU CANT ADJUST THAT CARBS CORRECT IF THE PCV VALVE IS LEAKING!. That garage should know. The second opinion inspector is correct!
Why so many car keys on one bunch 🤦♂️