I'd love to see a car install still. To a listener inside the car, it's effectively infinite baffle. Similar to being in a house with it ported to the outside. I'm not sure what it would be, but the resonance frequency of the internal volume of a car is almost definitely low enough to allow a rotary sub to "stretch its legs." Imagine rolling up to a stoplight blasting some 10 Hz bass. lol
truck rear window would be sweet!! or heck, installed in a plywood baffle in a truck canopy with the rear cab window open, effectively an infinite baffle with a literal "blowthrough" lmao. I gotta build one of these. I'm way too curious lol. What a rad device!
I installed my 16 inch rotary sub in my car just today and tried it at 18 hz. It got to the point where it felt like it was sucking on my eardrums and then it broke. It's blades hit the beams that were holding the sub and chipped.
It’s not just static pressure issues but also moving mass. The driver in a small enclosure has a high moving mass compared to this. Imagine a subwoofer with no foam surround - most of the restorative force is lost to the atmosphere and your system resonance shoots through the roof - well above the natural resonant frequency of this assembly. In laymen’s terms, the air is short circuiting around the edges of the blades.
Place an spl meter inside the box. Or build a rectangular box with a sliding wall to be able to move to find the efficiency zone. That box was way too small. I've seen rotory subs placed in theater rooms with tall stacks(columns) along the wall to implement the baffling area needed. 😀 I'm going to attempt this soon as well. You've inspired many people. Keep up the good work.
I wonder if its is because its stalling the rotor. While between large enclosures your have infinite conditions on both sides, here the pessure inside the box can increase, and by that stalling the airflow? Just a theory. If you make the bass reflex hole large enough that the pressure drop is almost not noticeable (and funneling the pressure wave somewhere else), this might actually work.
Hey I was wondering if you could upload the stl/3d files for your mini rotary sub that you used to make the 6in rotary sub but I also don't know how I can reach out to ask you about it because I am trying to make my own mini rotary sub but I just have no idea how to model what needs to be made
Bro thanks for the video and to show the ups and downs of every build...you last time answered and I'm proud of you for being true to your fans...so much love... Maurice
Thank you for this video again it shows that it requires a large or very large space to get the effects of a rotary sub. I still think it's very interesting 👍
Simple Rotarys work best at the lowest freqs, ... single digits. Box volume is way too small. As to not impede the performance, forcing the driver to pressurize that tiny backspace volume absolutely destroys the inherent advantage in single digit performance. (10hz wavelength is 34m, 112 feet)
I imagine with a different material used for the blades. And a tighter design that could be made even more efficient. Super cool though and impressive build.
I suppose you could take a movie theater as long as it's not a small, personal one, put the rotary subwoofer somewhere not too close behind the screen, and have the baffle go in the floor and snake it back and forth under the movie seats. It should make for a great effect for earthquakes and explosions. You're probably going to have a problem isolate it from the neighboring theaters, though.
they used to sell a ROCKFORD FOSGATE I-Beam tactical transducer. that did that exactly and will shake you out of your seat.I used to have one that was great for putting in an electric chair prop. when an unsuspecting victim sat in the chair it push a button under seat that the went with the along with two extension cord wires for the I beam (1cord(3wires)pos (2nd cord(3wires)neg (1 wire to spliced into power button of a boom box with Cd player then to a 200watt amp out to the I-beam (wooden)electric chair) That had about a 20-30 second delay for it to turn on and start playing the cd.if someone got up before that it just turned the radio off) but if not the whamo some people about hit thier heads on the ceiling jumping out of the chair. I felt bad one time a little girl sat in it and was stuck because she was bouncing around too much and couldn't get out. even though later she said it was fun,so i asked her if she wanted to do it again,( she shook her head "No" about as fast as that seat shook it) lol best halloween party gag ever. always the ones who sat in it in the beginning were trying to lure any newcomers to sit in it who had no idea. because everyone at the party knows when someone sat in the chair strategically placed right by the alcohol. whats funnier is that when they got drunk they forget, when waiting to get another drink and sit in it. but the chair dont forget ,and gottcha, instantly they become very sober. also I will sit in it knowing how long before it goes off and get up making people think its turned off. but nope it got another victim. Eventually the chair broke apart from so much vibration. and it was a beefy chair made with 4x4 posts, angle brackets ,t-brackets and lag bolts.
lets goooo!!! more rotary fans XD i have a weird liking to this topic its so cool! and way to powerfull what makes it even more funny. thanks for the constant. projects and vids!!!!
I would like to see this mounted on a large-ish open baffle (maybe 10x the surface area of the blades), so that you can move it around and experiment with different parts of the room; eg. doorway, fireplace alcove, corners, etc. Use the room to fake infinite baffle. Also, are you using a low pass filter for the audio?
Bigger Port might help but I just think you need lot of room to resonate/baffle. The port would already be 'chuffing' and basically overloaded. But really I think physics has you beat, you need IB or equivalent enclosure. Keep it up man.
I'm impressed. I never thought you would respond to a comment I made before with a video. Excellent video + thanks for the demonstration . This is how most youtubers should be !
I disagree. If everyone wasted time and materials to shut up Ignorant people... it would be a mess and a waste. Nobody owes you a custom, detailed, demonstration. Learn to accept that your Theories, are almost certainly Wrong... and that unless you are willing to prove otherwise... that you should accept that others know Far more about the technology that they are speaking about... than you.
I recently did a infinte baffle build in my car with 2 skar ix-10 sounds amazing nothing better then infinite baffle but how would this sound in the same scenario?
thats because the spining blades produce ~15 more air movement so you need to calculate the enclosure like having 15" of those, and propper port surface area.
Cut a hole at the bottom the same size and put legs or maybe try a deflector at the back or sides and try running fan in reverse can't see port's doing much but I didn't think it would be that good on a window until I seen it, now I want one😅
I still wanna make one and use it for home theater but I got decent sized windows I could easily fit a 15inch one with spare room lol and I have no idea how powerful that would be
A killer song to really test those speakers out would be Kira May by weedeater there's long sustained very low bass sections that blow most subs good luck 🤞
I just watched the bt speaker video and was thinking maybe if you could get ahold of one of those Bose speaker chambers. The Bruce Thigpen invented these and used to have under floor chambers to tune the speaker. I also imagine a little more distance helped mitigate mechanical noises. maybe if you can find some of the 8 inch concrete column forms. Have 2 feet on the intake side and at least 8 on the sound side? could be interesting.
Looks good! Keep on troubleshooting! Maybe an infinite or passive baffle to increase "virtual" internal volume. I'm building an EV Outback and will be removing the gas tank, leaving a BIG hole! If I had this, it would go in that big hole, vented downward, under the rear seats.
Hey great video! Been watching all your rotary subwoofer stuff. Do you think you could go over a video where you setup all the wiring? I'm thinking of attempting this and your build guide had everything but that information. Thanks so much!
Heres the thing about cars they have vents around the car to prevent the windows from shattering when you close a door. so I have a feeling the rotary sub Might do very well in a car application.
@@Pupp3tmaster-uq3yz Trust me I have Im just interested in this cause technically in a car it'd almost give it a infinite baffle due to the vents as I mentioned above. So it could be possible for it to sound very well in a car.
What are you using to get the infrasonic sound? I’m hoping to make one connected to my home audio system and I can’t seem to find anything advertised being able to go that low
I would have like to have heard it from outside the garage, having that in a box, in a room, gives it 2 peak frequencies, which can only be heard outside the larger enclosure (the room)
on a rotary sub binge, damn this looking good, if i can suggest, possibly an open baffle design, or semi open baffle, pretty much a sheet of =plywood, 3-6 ft, tall, or in a c shape, so 2 or 3 ft wide, and 4-8 ft tall, with short 1ft backign pieces and lean it against a wall, so the top part is open pretty much a 3'wide-6'tall-1ftdeep sub box, without the top and back XD, chimney
I think you're missing the point of the fan. It's to push/pull the air in/out of the room, if the R. sub is properly installed in the wall or window of the room. This increases/decreases the pressure inside the room,sorta like opening and closing a door. What you are describing is just a bigger ported enclosure, which does not vent the back to the outside.
@theglengineer well the way he had it was just a small posted enclosure technically so incresing its size fertically or horizontally would have improved it.
I want to try this so badly. I'm just curious about the distortions, I can't understand if it's the microphone clipping or if it's the plasting that rattles sometime
It's the plastic rattling, that thing looks super flimsy at best and i'm chocked it dident fly apart. If you look at a real rotary sub the shafts for the blades are like a half inch diameter or more and the diameter of the whole thing is still bigger than most cone type subs. Real life installations of these has a longish channel like a vent duct with sound deadening insulation on the inside to filter out the fan wind turbulence noise before it enters the actual listening room/movie theatre. And if im not mistaken they were a bit of a flop due to the installation requirements, i've only ever seen one single video here on youtube demoing the low frequency rumble in a theatre that supposedly had one installed, but knowing how much clickbait and scam videos are on here it could very well have been just a regular cone woofer as well. All other vids has just been like this one where ppl have cut a hole in a door in their home and plopped one in, and all you hear in the video is that door rattling and the wind noise from the blades.
It is not a dumb idea. The blades on the fan are made of plastic and flex too much. They don't seem to push the air very much. It very well may also be that you need a much bigger box. These things are made for windows to make house rattlers. Translation? You need a bigger box than this tiny thing.
i think you would of had better results if you had a dual 12 inch box, had this rotary setup on a single 12 inch sub and then left the other sub hole open wide
The whole idea with this is that your supposed to be "inside" the box. This is mainly because the pressure from this is not very strong and can't reverberate off a box very well
I think if there was a circular frame around the edge of the fan fins that would also move with them up and down, it way eliminate the rattling sounds?
I believe you need to have the rear of the fan to infinity and the front is the part that goes into the box, but the box needs to be tune with a series of chambers. Its a very complicated design not easy to achieve or put together, its why they cost thousands. Movies only go down to 20hz and music is is recorded around 50hz so really its unesesarry to go below 16 hz. Its more easy to put a sub in a large enclosure and achieve this frequencies needed. Unless you want to hear 10 hz or 1 hz , but then nothing like this is recorded in film or music .
You need an infinite baffle as it is a fan. Subs move back and forth creating vacuum and pressure whereas a rotary is a fan so it needs a constant flow of air behind it to pull through.
AIR FLOW. VOLUME OF AIR IN BOX IS NOT THE SAME AS A HOUSE. SPEED OF FAN TO HIGH. Perhaps drilling 4" holes will allow for more airflow pushing the bass forward (projection) ?
@@jakhazardzn9862 i wasn't joking when i commented that, they really do work well inside containers. One guy even made a container subwoofer using normal drivers, its known as The Matterhorn, you should look it up, its really interesting
I would have to say that a rotary sub would work best in a transmission line box because it is not limited to an X-Max like a conventional subwofer. The reason for an encloser box is due to the X-max of the sub. So yes, the rotary sub would need a near-infinite volume box.
Let's simplify this, if you have ever hear a helicopter flying over you know how much noise they can make but if you limit (choke ) the amount of air needed for lift off, It would never fly. This design is not or never will work in a enclosure. It needs to breath and the enclosure keeps it from doing that very thing. Thats why it works so well in the window of a house. The house becomes the enclosure
What he said! Might work in a car, with the windows closed and the back of the R. sub open to the outside. Better idea than those beer-can crushers that 'vent' the smooshed beercan to the bed of the pickup!
I did something similar to this but I opened the trunk and put the woofer in a board where the seats go down. It did get pretty loud and made me feel like I was bouncing in the chair at really low frequencies
Nothing dumb about the idea. I would have tried the same, knowing rotary subs are for infinite baffle. If it worked, even if extremely remote.... would have been worth it.
@@nathanbulle5782 Exactly. No other way to learn. I do professional audio with a wide bandwidth system and was looking into one of these to complement my existing 21" horn loaded subwoofers to get it to near zero at the bottom end. If a guy could make an unused nearby access door of the building they were performing into an infinite baffle rotary sub.....whoah nelly!? You would prop the door open and the rotary subwoofer enclosure/frame would roll up against the open door frame. Like a hand truck concept for portability...and then seal against the frame with carpeted adjustable clamping blocks that grip against the door frame to securely hold it in place. There, you have something you can sell for big money when you perfect this. Just don't forget your buddy The Dollar Guy here. A portable, roll up to a door rotary subwoofer for professional audio applications for 15Hz and lower. He would like to buy one.
Yes. 2-3 rotors for maximum air volume. Hand truck type chassis you roll up to open door. Then devise best sealing method to door. Perhaps drop down struts from the motor side Or at least sell the rotor assembled or kits, :). Do you?
@@gavincurtis I want to sell the rotors probably assembled but first I need either a resin printer or some molds to make parts fast and some kind of efficient assembly line.
The only problem here is phase cancelation. Behind the box there's negative air pressure, while in front it's positive. So they cancel each other out. That's why people install these into windows.
dude your port is way , way too small for that sub and probably the box as well. That box and the port hole was made for a regular sub. I think a ported box that size is too small for even that chepo subwoofer( maybe if it was a sealed box and a good sub) . So with a rotary sub that has forced air how the heck you think its supposed to to move air in and out through that tiny hole. probably need a hole at least half the size as the fan hole. And preferably not directly behind it and in a long of tube as possible.( on the bottom of sub with two 6 inch pipe going up inside about 3/4 from the top. Or at least four 4" black ABS pipe(maybe even 6 trial and error what sounds best.) in the bottom corners up 3/4 the way inside.( although the subwoofer might float all across the floor the or two the further the air bounces around in the box before escaping the Better( within reason). Also turn the fan to the back or make some type of sound catcher that covers the fan to not hear the fan running so much. Like a big metal salad bowl the size of the box that is at least 14" inches and mounted on the front 3-4 inches out.. basically like four 2"x2"x3" blocks on the front corners to screw the salad bowl on. It may look like a big bubble but it will hide a lot of the fan noise and maybe act like a resonance chamber and make it sound louder or give the sub a higher. sound range 🤷 its worth a shot,but at least add more holes because its fighting its self and cant move air fast enough and the motor will get really hot ,maybe start smoking if you played it for too long that way.
I love when people roast me for this vid because I think it's stupid too. Don't worry I'm going to solve the ridiculously tinny box issue. I'm going to use a box with 3 3' by 6' passive radiators so that should be better
I'd love to see a car install still. To a listener inside the car, it's effectively infinite baffle. Similar to being in a house with it ported to the outside. I'm not sure what it would be, but the resonance frequency of the internal volume of a car is almost definitely low enough to allow a rotary sub to "stretch its legs." Imagine rolling up to a stoplight blasting some 10 Hz bass. lol
truck rear window would be sweet!! or heck, installed in a plywood baffle in a truck canopy with the rear cab window open, effectively an infinite baffle with a literal "blowthrough" lmao. I gotta build one of these. I'm way too curious lol. What a rad device!
I installed my 16 inch rotary sub in my car just today and tried it at 18 hz. It got to the point where it felt like it was sucking on my eardrums and then it broke. It's blades hit the beams that were holding the sub and chipped.
did you record the installation and the test?
Phoenix Gold did this a long time ago with the Cyclone.
Cut a hole in the floor. Bass for days - and everyone around you.
I am infinitely baffled 😂
Good one 🤣
😂😂
I like what you did there
Soooo clever. Coz it's ment to be 8nfinilatly baffled. 😂😂😂
Fannnnntastic
It’s not just static pressure issues but also moving mass. The driver in a small enclosure has a high moving mass compared to this. Imagine a subwoofer with no foam surround - most of the restorative force is lost to the atmosphere and your system resonance shoots through the roof - well above the natural resonant frequency of this assembly.
In laymen’s terms, the air is short circuiting around the edges of the blades.
Place an spl meter inside the box. Or build a rectangular box with a sliding wall to be able to move to find the efficiency zone. That box was way too small. I've seen rotory subs placed in theater rooms with tall stacks(columns) along the wall to implement the baffling area needed. 😀 I'm going to attempt this soon as well. You've inspired many people. Keep up the good work.
I like how you added "dumb idea" as rotary subs need a ton of volume to be efficient.
This is definitely a "fan in a box" demo
lmfaooo
I wonder if its is because its stalling the rotor. While between large enclosures your have infinite conditions on both sides, here the pessure inside the box can increase, and by that stalling the airflow? Just a theory. If you make the bass reflex hole large enough that the pressure drop is almost not noticeable (and funneling the pressure wave somewhere else), this might actually work.
Hey I was wondering if you could upload the stl/3d files for your mini rotary sub that you used to make the 6in rotary sub but I also don't know how I can reach out to ask you about it because I am trying to make my own mini rotary sub but I just have no idea how to model what needs to be made
@@Triangle1234 the 6 inch rotary sub I made is not worth building because it doesn't work.
@nathanbulle5782 aw man :(
What about the 3in?
Bro thanks for the video and to show the ups and downs of every build...you last time answered and I'm proud of you for being true to your fans...so much love... Maurice
I think that an eight to ten cubic foot transmission line cabinet would have a chance of working.
It'll work but a rotary sub needs a lot more than that to stretch it's legs.
For your next iteration try putting more weight on the outside edge of the blades. I think the centrifugal force is contributing to. The stiffness.
Thank you for this video again it shows that it requires a large or very large space to get the effects of a rotary sub. I still think it's very interesting 👍
THANK YOU FOR TESTING THIS IDEA!
Simple
Rotarys work best at the lowest freqs, ... single digits.
Box volume is way too small.
As to not impede the performance, forcing the driver to pressurize that tiny backspace volume absolutely destroys the inherent advantage in single digit performance.
(10hz wavelength is 34m, 112 feet)
I imagine with a different material used for the blades. And a tighter design that could be made even more efficient.
Super cool though and impressive build.
You could try a much smaller fan assembly. Maybe a 4" rotary sub to get an idea of box volume needed .
Yaaay, new vid!!!
Interesting experiment!!
I suppose you could take a movie theater as long as it's not a small, personal one, put the rotary subwoofer somewhere not too close behind the screen, and have the baffle go in the floor and snake it back and forth under the movie seats. It should make for a great effect for earthquakes and explosions. You're probably going to have a problem isolate it from the neighboring theaters, though.
they used to sell a
ROCKFORD FOSGATE
I-Beam tactical transducer. that did that exactly and will shake you out of your seat.I used to have one that was great for putting in an electric chair prop. when an unsuspecting victim sat in the chair it push a button under seat that the went with the along with two extension cord wires for the I beam (1cord(3wires)pos
(2nd cord(3wires)neg
(1 wire to spliced into power button of a boom box with Cd player then to a 200watt amp out to the I-beam (wooden)electric chair) That had about a 20-30 second delay for it to turn on and start playing the cd.if someone got up before that it just turned the radio off)
but if not the whamo some people about hit thier heads on the ceiling jumping out of the chair. I felt bad one time a little girl sat in it and was stuck because she was bouncing around too much and couldn't get out. even though later she said it was fun,so i asked her if she wanted to do it again,( she shook her head "No" about as fast as that seat shook it) lol best halloween party gag ever. always the ones who sat in it in the beginning were trying to lure any newcomers to sit in it who had no idea. because everyone at the party knows when someone sat in the chair strategically placed right by the alcohol. whats funnier is that when they got drunk they forget, when waiting to get another drink and sit in it. but the chair dont forget ,and gottcha, instantly they become very sober. also I will sit in it knowing how long before it goes off and get up making people think its turned off. but nope it got another victim. Eventually the chair broke apart from so much vibration. and it was a beefy chair made with 4x4 posts, angle brackets ,t-brackets and lag bolts.
lets goooo!!! more rotary fans XD i have a weird liking to this topic its so cool! and way to powerfull what makes it even more funny. thanks for the constant. projects and vids!!!!
I would like to see this mounted on a large-ish open baffle (maybe 10x the surface area of the blades), so that you can move it around and experiment with different parts of the room; eg. doorway, fireplace alcove, corners, etc. Use the room to fake infinite baffle. Also, are you using a low pass filter for the audio?
Bigger Port might help but I just think you need lot of room to resonate/baffle. The port would already be 'chuffing' and basically overloaded. But really I think physics has you beat, you need IB or equivalent enclosure. Keep it up man.
I'm impressed. I never thought you would respond to a comment I made before with a video.
Excellent video + thanks for the demonstration . This is how most youtubers should be !
I disagree. If everyone wasted time and materials to shut up Ignorant people... it would be a mess and a waste. Nobody owes you a custom, detailed, demonstration. Learn to accept that your Theories, are almost certainly Wrong... and that unless you are willing to prove otherwise... that you should accept that others know Far more about the technology that they are speaking about... than you.
I always try to listen to my viewers because a lot of the time what they are saying I should do would work better than what I did.
great vids been watching them lately
You need to drill some speed holes in the side to give the air a path to escape
@HackaDay WHERE ARE YOU GUYS? Drinking Margaritas? *GET THIS MAN ON THE FRONT PAGE* !
I recently did a infinte baffle build in my car with 2 skar ix-10 sounds amazing nothing better then infinite baffle but how would this sound in the same scenario?
You should make an opening out the back as big as the fan, and then you should see if you can redirect the air that comes out toward the listener
thats because the spining blades produce ~15 more air movement so you need to calculate the enclosure like having 15" of those, and propper port surface area.
Can't decide if that sounds asstacular or asstastic!
Cut a hole at the bottom the same size and put legs or maybe try a deflector at the back or sides and try running fan in reverse can't see port's doing much but I didn't think it would be that good on a window until I seen it, now I want one😅
I wonder if some kind of outer flywheel would help reduce the choppyness of the blades
I still wanna make one and use it for home theater but I got decent sized windows I could easily fit a 15inch one with spare room lol and I have no idea how powerful that would be
A killer song to really test those speakers out would be Kira May by weedeater there's long sustained very low bass sections that blow most subs good luck 🤞
"Infinitely baffled" nice pun :D
I just watched the bt speaker video and was thinking maybe if you could get ahold of one of those Bose speaker chambers. The Bruce Thigpen invented these and used to have under floor chambers to tune the speaker. I also imagine a little more distance helped mitigate mechanical noises. maybe if you can find some of the 8 inch concrete column forms. Have 2 feet on the intake side and at least 8 on the sound side? could be interesting.
Need a sort of bandpass enclosure. Still infinite baffle, but it could help filter out the fan turbulence
Try it in an open baffle H frame design.
finally someone did it!
Id love to see this concept but larger and hooked up to a bass guitar/ amplifier, maybe try an ampeg 8×10 cabinet?
Interesting
Looks good! Keep on troubleshooting! Maybe an infinite or passive baffle to increase "virtual" internal volume. I'm building an EV Outback and will be removing the gas tank, leaving a BIG hole! If I had this, it would go in that big hole, vented downward, under the rear seats.
that’s a fucking awesome idea dude
you should make this to do that. you’d be the only person in the entire world
I'm going to make a large passive box with cardboard and see what that does
Hey great video! Been watching all your rotary subwoofer stuff. Do you think you could go over a video where you setup all the wiring? I'm thinking of attempting this and your build guide had everything but that information. Thanks so much!
The wiring is very simple. Just connect your motor wires to 12v DC and connect the voice coil wires to an amp
Heres the thing about cars they have vents around the car to prevent the windows from shattering when you close a door. so I have a feeling the rotary sub Might do very well in a car application.
you should see what a regular sub can do to a window
@@Pupp3tmaster-uq3yz Trust me I have Im just interested in this cause technically in a car it'd almost give it a infinite baffle due to the vents as I mentioned above. So it could be possible for it to sound very well in a car.
Blades spin to fast maybe? Also you need much nore air flow and theres lots of extra noise from the sub mudding the sound up to. Keep up the work 😀
What are you using to get the infrasonic sound? I’m hoping to make one connected to my home audio system and I can’t seem to find anything advertised being able to go that low
To clarify, I’m talking more about the pair of 9” ones you used in your windows but this video reminded me of it
I would have like to have heard it from outside the garage, having that in a box, in a room, gives it 2 peak frequencies, which can only be heard outside the larger enclosure (the room)
Regardless, this is still cool!
*Hmm maybe try an Open baffle setup with this Rotary sub in a room and let us know how it does*
And if you seal the drawer with an external lid?
on a rotary sub binge, damn this looking good, if i can suggest, possibly an open baffle design, or semi open baffle,
pretty much a sheet of =plywood, 3-6 ft, tall, or in a c shape, so 2 or 3 ft wide, and 4-8 ft tall, with short 1ft backign pieces and lean it against a wall, so the top part is open
pretty much a 3'wide-6'tall-1ftdeep sub box, without the top and back XD, chimney
I think you're missing the point of the fan. It's to push/pull the air in/out of the room, if the R. sub is properly installed in the wall or window of the room. This increases/decreases the pressure inside the room,sorta like opening and closing a door. What you are describing is just a bigger ported enclosure, which does not vent the back to the outside.
@theglengineer well the way he had it was just a small posted enclosure technically so incresing its size fertically or horizontally would have improved it.
Dang, that's exactly what I was going to do except with cardboard. Thanks!
I want to try this so badly. I'm just curious about the distortions, I can't understand if it's the microphone clipping or if it's the plasting that rattles sometime
It's the plastic rattling, that thing looks super flimsy at best and i'm chocked it dident fly apart. If you look at a real rotary sub the shafts for the blades are like a half inch diameter or more and the diameter of the whole thing is still bigger than most cone type subs.
Real life installations of these has a longish channel like a vent duct with sound deadening insulation on the inside to filter out the fan wind turbulence noise before it enters the actual listening room/movie theatre.
And if im not mistaken they were a bit of a flop due to the installation requirements, i've only ever seen one single video here on youtube demoing the low frequency rumble in a theatre that supposedly had one installed, but knowing how much clickbait and scam videos are on here it could very well have been just a regular cone woofer as well.
All other vids has just been like this one where ppl have cut a hole in a door in their home and plopped one in, and all you hear in the video is that door rattling and the wind noise from the blades.
@@rovhalgrencparselstedt8343yeah, why does no one ever play music on them?
Amazing
Maybe aluminum blades will be better?
It is not a dumb idea. The blades on the fan are made of plastic and flex too much. They don't seem to push the air very much. It very well may also be that you need a much bigger box. These things are made for windows to make house rattlers. Translation? You need a bigger box than this tiny thing.
And you also need to sit in that box
Really goes to show that people who live in cardboard boxes would really enjoy this aspect of their life
i think you would of had better results if you had a dual 12 inch box, had this rotary setup on a single 12 inch sub and then left the other sub hole open wide
I bet it would sound way better in bigger box, bigger port and tuned way lower. Maybe tuned to like 20hz
The whole idea with this is that your supposed to be "inside" the box. This is mainly because the pressure from this is not very strong and can't reverberate off a box very well
ever hear of a phoenix gold cyclone? It was an amazing sounding woofer, under 50 hz.
invert the mechanism(fan)? pull air through the box? I'd be curious to know the results...
Same result
maybe ported box with sub cone sticking out, 32hz and 42hz are magical.
Giant passive radiator chamber 😉
Would have been probably a little bit better if there was an passive hole on the back or side haha
I think if there was a circular frame around the edge of the fan fins that would also move with them up and down, it way eliminate the rattling sounds?
You need put it in a ported box with at least a 2-3 inch port
I believe you need to have the rear of the fan to infinity and the front is the part that goes into the box, but the box needs to be tune with a series of chambers. Its a very complicated design not easy to achieve or put together, its why they cost thousands. Movies only go down to 20hz and music is is recorded around 50hz so really its unesesarry to go below 16 hz. Its more easy to put a sub in a large enclosure and achieve this frequencies needed. Unless you want to hear 10 hz or 1 hz , but then nothing like this is recorded in film or music .
Sweet
Is the enclosure or power 🔋 on par with requirements 🤷 for f sake??
MAYBE try with passive radiators? or a smaller fan?
Yes I'm going to try a box with three passive radiators that are 3' by 6'!
For what I understand, in order to fight air resistance inside the enclosure the fan should rotate a shit ton faster, fun experiment though lololol
You need an infinite baffle as it is a fan. Subs move back and forth creating vacuum and pressure whereas a rotary is a fan so it needs a constant flow of air behind it to pull through.
AIR FLOW. VOLUME OF AIR IN BOX IS NOT THE SAME AS A HOUSE. SPEED OF FAN TO HIGH. Perhaps drilling 4" holes will allow for more airflow pushing the bass forward (projection) ?
I wondered how bad they would sound like this.. Well, there you go, No wonder their spec is Infinity air.
nah they just like ultra massive enclosures, put one of them in a container and itll play just fine
LMFAO Container subs for the win@@FPSzky
@@jakhazardzn9862 i wasn't joking when i commented that, they really do work well inside containers. One guy even made a container subwoofer using normal drivers, its known as The Matterhorn, you should look it up, its really interesting
hey man im trying to make one of these myself any chance you could tell me what motor you used 🙏
Just use an old radiator cooling fan motor (a small one)
It would be interesting to see how a rotary sub behaves in a transmission line
I would have to say that a rotary sub would work best in a transmission line box because it is not limited to an X-Max like a conventional subwofer. The reason for an encloser box is due to the X-max of the sub. So yes, the rotary sub would need a near-infinite volume box.
@@metalgearrc2166 yeah, exactly what I was thinking
it makes weird sounds, so it works
Nice! 👆💪
lasko 33SB box fan
Can you attach a rotary sub on a house or on a car? Would be very interesting!
Ha, did that!😏😉
Let's simplify this, if you have ever hear a helicopter flying over you know how much noise they can make but if you limit (choke ) the amount of air needed for lift off, It would never fly. This design is not or never will work in a enclosure. It needs to breath and the enclosure keeps it from doing that very thing. Thats why it works so well in the window of a house. The house becomes the enclosure
What he said! Might work in a car, with the windows closed and the back of the R. sub open to the outside. Better idea than those beer-can crushers that 'vent' the smooshed beercan to the bed of the pickup!
Very well said man
Try it in a large sealed enclosure
It won't work. As soon as the fan turns on and a vacuum is created in the enclosure, it'll fail miserably.
i think you created and intimidation weapon
Instal a rubber side. Make one side of rubber
What if the back of the enclosure or side was cut out and into a window or outside door?
That would work
Most people will use the attic or an entire spare room (preferably with door open) to feed these.
That's why I just put it in the window by itself
U have much speed
Correction it does work in a vehicle just roll the windows down and its infinite
Actually open the trunk
Is air goin in or out?
Both in the form of bass
10'pvc tube with speaker at back of tube so sound has to travel through 10' of tube.....backwards of traditional cannons
I think I tried something like this and it slowed the airflow down
it needs more room
I think you'd have to do IB with a car. Or IB using a door in a room.
Yeah I did both you can see the other vids on my channel 😉
Таких приколов я еще не видел😂😂😂
пару таких в БП 4 и будет 160+
Ахахаххахахах
Стив Мет оценит )))
I’ve never heard anything but motor noise coming out of one of these?
Yeah, doesn't work in the box
Mount it on a window without the back
Cut a hole in the spare tire compartement of a car. Could be pretty extreme
I did something similar to this but I opened the trunk and put the woofer in a board where the seats go down. It did get pretty loud and made me feel like I was bouncing in the chair at really low frequencies
epic
install it to a car window!
Welp now we know lol 😅
Nothing dumb about the idea. I would have tried the same, knowing rotary subs are for infinite baffle. If it worked, even if extremely remote.... would have been worth it.
It was an extremely easy thing to try so it was fine to try
@@nathanbulle5782 Exactly. No other way to learn. I do professional audio with a wide bandwidth system and was looking into one of these to complement my existing 21" horn loaded subwoofers to get it to near zero at the bottom end.
If a guy could make an unused nearby access door of the building they were performing into an infinite baffle rotary sub.....whoah nelly!?
You would prop the door open and the rotary subwoofer enclosure/frame would roll up against the open door frame. Like a hand truck concept for portability...and then seal against the frame with carpeted adjustable clamping blocks that grip against the door frame to securely hold it in place.
There, you have something you can sell for big money when you perfect this. Just don't forget your buddy The Dollar Guy here. A portable, roll up to a door rotary subwoofer for professional audio applications for 15Hz and lower. He would like to buy one.
@@gavincurtis so I would sell the wood thing that would hold the rotary sub as well as the sub itself?
Yes. 2-3 rotors for maximum air volume. Hand truck type chassis you roll up to open door. Then devise best sealing method to door. Perhaps drop down struts from the motor side
Or at least sell the rotor assembled or kits, :). Do you?
@@gavincurtis I want to sell the rotors probably assembled but first I need either a resin printer or some molds to make parts fast and some kind of efficient assembly line.
The only problem here is phase cancelation. Behind the box there's negative air pressure, while in front it's positive. So they cancel each other out. That's why people install these into windows.
Partially correct. You also need to be able to feed the fan. That doesn't work in a sealed box.
@@mephInc There's a port, but yeah the airflow is probably really stifled
so...when you gonna start selling these kits? LOL
Does it work?
No
@@nathanbulle5782 ok, thanks
Normal subwoofers are fine. Rotary subs are capable of doing lower frequencies but is pointless in general circumstances
Exactly what I was trying to prove.
@@nathanbulle5782 totally got what you were getting at
Now just cut a big hole in the back and put in a window
The fan is facing the wrong direction and that enclosure is the wrong size.
Literally just flip it inside out. 180 degrees.
Bro, just cur a hole of the same size in the back of the subwoofer
dude your port is way , way too small for that sub and probably the box as well. That box and the port hole was made for a regular sub. I think a ported box that size is too small for even that chepo subwoofer( maybe if it was a sealed box and a good sub) . So with a rotary sub that has forced air how the heck you think its supposed to to move air in and out through that tiny hole. probably need a hole at least half the size as the fan hole. And preferably not directly behind it and in a long of tube as possible.( on the bottom of sub with two 6 inch pipe going up inside about 3/4 from the top. Or at least four 4" black ABS pipe(maybe even 6 trial and error what sounds best.) in the bottom corners up 3/4 the way inside.( although the subwoofer might float all across the floor the or two the further the air bounces around in the box before escaping the Better( within reason).
Also turn the fan to the back or make some type of sound catcher that covers the fan to not hear the fan running so much. Like a big metal salad bowl the size of the box that is at least 14" inches and mounted on the front 3-4 inches out.. basically like four 2"x2"x3" blocks on the front corners to screw the salad bowl on. It may look like a big bubble but it will hide a lot of the fan noise and maybe act like a resonance chamber and make it sound louder or give the sub a higher. sound range 🤷 its worth a shot,but at least add more holes because its fighting its self and cant move air fast enough and the motor will get really hot ,maybe start smoking if you played it for too long that way.
I love when people roast me for this vid because I think it's stupid too. Don't worry I'm going to solve the ridiculously tinny box issue. I'm going to use a box with 3 3' by 6' passive radiators so that should be better