Very nicely structured, informative, and well shot video. But I do have a question: I am currently preparing for a project where I want to make a new leather harcover for a book. I landed on "Apple leather", because it is very thin, appearently nice to work with and reasonably priced. Would you happen to have any pointers on painting synthetic leather? Can I just stick to your tutorial or is there something I have to be aware of? Best wishes
Hey, with synthetic leathers, it's really about understanding the material and surface, since they're essentially unique when compared to natural leathers. Key would be understanding what the surface is coated with, and what the underlying material is. For example, some solvents might help prepare leather, while possibly damaging plastic (in some synthetic leathers). Some deglazers work well on leather since they'll remove coatings, waterproofers, etc., though not the underlying leather. So mainly just check out that what you're prepping with will be ok with the unique apple leather you're using. If it's a coating similar to what's found on synthetic leather sneakers, etc, then the angelus line of products can likely work great. And best tip would be just to try it on a sample piece. Deglazer work or ruin it? No biggie, it's just a scrap. Then when you know all is good, can proceed with the real-deal. Sounds like a fun project, good luck!
@@internationalleatherclub Thank you very much for the reply! I'll definetly try with the scrap-piece first thank you again and have a lovely day/night
I enjoyed this simple video...I enjoy redoing Vintage LOUIS VUITTON bags and have issued where I should use the Acrylic finisher or the 4 coat Finisher on my leather project..what do u suggest?
Hello 😃 The Finisher might be a little more forgiving and easier to apply, and has that range of finish styles from matte to gloss. The 4-Coat might dry a little faster, giving less working time especially for larger surfaces (to blend and such), while it can have some enhanced durability after a few coats. For ease and overall good performance, the acrylic finisher is probably useful. For more durability and a little tricker application, the 4 coat could be worth trying. Some finishes can even be "thinned" to preference, so often if I'll be doing repeated work (like you might be with the bags), it can be great to test a few things out and then see what gives the best results for that application. Hope that helps some!
Relatively new to leather working and haven't used leather paint at all yet. I have an idea for a small project which requires me to paint white lines on some green dyed veg tan. Just to be clear: I do NOT need to use the deglazer for dyed leather, right? Would I be able to paint directly onto a brand new piece of leather? Thanks in advance!
Hello 😃 In general, it can be ok to paint over dyed leather without using a deglazer. There are a few variables such as the type of leather where it might impact the result (such as a waxy leather, or an oiled leather, or just a vegetable tanned piece of leather), where the surface might make the paint look a little different. Also, if there are any protective coatings on the leather (water resistance, scratch-resistance, etc.), they might impact the adherence of the paint. In those cases, applying a deglazer can help remove those layers and allow for application of the paint right on the leather surface for better adherence. While also deglazer might remove some of the dye color along with the surface coatings, so testing in a tiny area first is always recommended. Though if there is no protective coating it should be ok to try applying paint right on the leather and see if the result is liked. And one can even consider, after painting, adding a sealer or protective coating over it to help protect the paint.
@@internationalleatherclub Thank you for your quick reply! I plan on using some Buttero green vegtan. It's a bit pricey for a newbie like myself but it;s the exact shade of green I need. The site says the finish is 100% aniline so I worried the deglazer might strip away the color. I will try both methods (with deglazer and painting diretly) and see what offers the best results. Thanks again!
@@alocasio5896 You're very welcome! That's a very nice material you're planning on. I think you're right the deglazer would likely remove some of the color. Can definitely be a candidate to try right on it how it is. Sounds like a fun project, good luck with it!
I am looking to apply acrylic to veg tanned leather that I have dyed myself. Would you recommend that after dying and conditioning this would be the best time to apply the acrylic paint? I would like the final finish on my leather to be sealed with Resoline would I put an acrylic finish after painting acrylic and then Resoline over top or just Resoline on top of the acrylic paint?
Hey, yep you've got a good approach in mind: dye, condition, acrylic, then resolene. It can often be good to test on scrap if you can, to make sure that whatever formulations of those products work smoothly and don't have any unexpected reactions (even though each will be dry before applying the next). Sounds like a fun project, good luck with it!
Very nicely structured, informative, and well shot video.
But I do have a question:
I am currently preparing for a project where I want to make a new leather harcover for a book. I landed on "Apple leather", because it is very thin, appearently nice to work with and reasonably priced.
Would you happen to have any pointers on painting synthetic leather? Can I just stick to your tutorial or is there something I have to be aware of?
Best wishes
Hey, with synthetic leathers, it's really about understanding the material and surface, since they're essentially unique when compared to natural leathers.
Key would be understanding what the surface is coated with, and what the underlying material is. For example, some solvents might help prepare leather, while possibly damaging plastic (in some synthetic leathers).
Some deglazers work well on leather since they'll remove coatings, waterproofers, etc., though not the underlying leather.
So mainly just check out that what you're prepping with will be ok with the unique apple leather you're using.
If it's a coating similar to what's found on synthetic leather sneakers, etc, then the angelus line of products can likely work great.
And best tip would be just to try it on a sample piece. Deglazer work or ruin it? No biggie, it's just a scrap. Then when you know all is good, can proceed with the real-deal.
Sounds like a fun project, good luck!
@@internationalleatherclub Thank you very much for the reply!
I'll definetly try with the scrap-piece first
thank you again and have a lovely day/night
@@neroheind4388 You're very welcome, you too! 😃
I enjoyed this simple video...I enjoy redoing Vintage LOUIS VUITTON bags and have issued where I should use the Acrylic finisher or the 4 coat Finisher on my leather project..what do u suggest?
Hello 😃 The Finisher might be a little more forgiving and easier to apply, and has that range of finish styles from matte to gloss.
The 4-Coat might dry a little faster, giving less working time especially for larger surfaces (to blend and such), while it can have some enhanced durability after a few coats.
For ease and overall good performance, the acrylic finisher is probably useful. For more durability and a little tricker application, the 4 coat could be worth trying.
Some finishes can even be "thinned" to preference, so often if I'll be doing repeated work (like you might be with the bags), it can be great to test a few things out and then see what gives the best results for that application.
Hope that helps some!
Relatively new to leather working and haven't used leather paint at all yet. I have an idea for a small project which requires me to paint white lines on some green dyed veg tan. Just to be clear: I do NOT need to use the deglazer for dyed leather, right? Would I be able to paint directly onto a brand new piece of leather? Thanks in advance!
Hello 😃 In general, it can be ok to paint over dyed leather without using a deglazer.
There are a few variables such as the type of leather where it might impact the result (such as a waxy leather, or an oiled leather, or just a vegetable tanned piece of leather), where the surface might make the paint look a little different.
Also, if there are any protective coatings on the leather (water resistance, scratch-resistance, etc.), they might impact the adherence of the paint.
In those cases, applying a deglazer can help remove those layers and allow for application of the paint right on the leather surface for better adherence.
While also deglazer might remove some of the dye color along with the surface coatings, so testing in a tiny area first is always recommended.
Though if there is no protective coating it should be ok to try applying paint right on the leather and see if the result is liked.
And one can even consider, after painting, adding a sealer or protective coating over it to help protect the paint.
@@internationalleatherclub Thank you for your quick reply! I plan on using some Buttero green vegtan. It's a bit pricey for a newbie like myself but it;s the exact shade of green I need. The site says the finish is 100% aniline so I worried the deglazer might strip away the color. I will try both methods (with deglazer and painting diretly) and see what offers the best results. Thanks again!
@@alocasio5896 You're very welcome! That's a very nice material you're planning on. I think you're right the deglazer would likely remove some of the color.
Can definitely be a candidate to try right on it how it is. Sounds like a fun project, good luck with it!
I am looking to apply acrylic to veg tanned leather that I have dyed myself. Would you recommend that after dying and conditioning this would be the best time to apply the acrylic paint? I would like the final finish on my leather to be sealed with Resoline would I put an acrylic finish after painting acrylic and then Resoline over top or just Resoline on top of the acrylic paint?
Hey, yep you've got a good approach in mind: dye, condition, acrylic, then resolene.
It can often be good to test on scrap if you can, to make sure that whatever formulations of those products work smoothly and don't have any unexpected reactions (even though each will be dry before applying the next).
Sounds like a fun project, good luck with it!