DIY: Easiest Way To Level An OLD WOOD FLOOR - Laying The Floor Deck
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- This DIY video continues demonstrating the easiest method to level an old floor. In part 2, the focus lies on correctly installing the floor decking over a vapor barrier.
Miss Part 1? Watch it here: • DIY: Easiest Way To Le...
HOW TO LEVEL AN OLD WOOD FLOOR
Laying The Floor Deck
(Part 2 of 2)
DIY Easiest Way To Level An Old Wood Floor Using Only Screws, Wood and A Level (Part 2 of 2)
In this episode, Deric (the Architect turned Handyman) tackles the leveling effort of his old uneven floor in his Fixer Upper using only screws, wood and a level. Here he finishes up installing a new level floor deck. Watch this video to learn how to correctly install sub floor decking.
Oh, and later on for fun, Frank and Ed try their hand at a round of bowling with some friends.
Recommended tools for the job:
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Subscribe to follow the progress on this Home Improvement renovation series and stay tuned for more Do it Yourself and How To videos as remodeling work progresses on the old 4th Avenue Fixer Upper.
Rundown Reborn - Episode 14
What project would you recommend starting with first? Or do you just go ground up?
I'm not sure I understand your question. What are you referring to? The floors? The house in general? Please elaborate...
@@RundownReborn the house in general.
Your first consideration is weather. You have to get the house safe from water damage and freezing temps. Then if you plan to live in it while fixing it up, you have to have water, power and heat. After that it is about setting priorities. For us, we had to get a small “livable” space established. Once we were able to settle in, I was able to start the upstairs and section that off. Once it is finished, we can move into that space to free up the remaining portion of the house for work. It’s a big juggling act centered around space, time and money. Hope that helps you. Thanks for the question and for watching.
This shit warms my heart. This is what life is all about. Doing the things you like/love with and for the ones you love. You're living the dream my friend. You may not be rich, I don't know what your finances look like, but you're wealthy where it matters. I know I'm tardy to the party but you earned my subscription. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the warm wishes and for watching
So glad I found your video. I am converting a 12x26 cedar shed into my woodworking shop. I have been researching methods on how to level a floor. By far your method makes the most sense and is most economical and still doing it right. Thank you for sharing. Good luck with your renovation. My house is 170, so I can relate to the challenges.
Best of luck with your project
First part was super helpful, started to watch the 2nd one now. Thanks for the technique of the screws, first time I see it!
Thanks so much for watching. I’m glad to hear that the video was helpful.
First time I saw it too! Amazing!
This is the best instructional video. I feel like I can it all myself now. Thanks for all your hard work! It’s not easy to do a great job and make a how to video! You’re a hero!
Thanks so much. Good luck on your project.
I'm a fan of this channel for sure.
Awesome! Glad to have you.
I'm surprised this guy doesn't have a million subs he's awesome!
Me too. Ha ha! Seriously tho, thanks for watching!
Very well explained. I will use this process to level my house flooring. Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
Good stuff. This is a lot like the stuff I do. One tip would be to invest in a good pair of knee pads for floor jobs. You got a subscriber.
Awesome Douglas and welcome! Thanks for watching. Yes - knee pads would be awesome - but I need a brad nailer even more. :)
Thanks for this video! Your instructions are very clear and helpful :)
Glad it was helpful. Thank you for watching
My husband and I just bought a house built back in 1947. Old plaster walls, uneven floors, and some really interesting design ideas as fas as how the ceiling meets the wall. (its curved and you literally cant paint the walls without also painting the ceiling because it would look weird.) The biggest project that I want to do is leveling that damn floor. Hardwood is great.. When its level and doesnt have gaps or rotted knots by the door. So I think this might be what we need. I really appreciate you putting this video out. I might be able to actually fix my floors and lay flooring I want. (I prefer luxury vinyl because the shit lasts better against pets and kids Dx)
So glad to hear the video is helpful! Regarding your ceiling. The rounded corners make the ceiling feel higher…a good thing IMO. If you want a different color above, use a picture rail trim or a lowered flat strip of cove trim about 4-6 inches below the ceiling. This will provide a nice trim detail element and provide a place to change colors between the wall and ceiling. Good luck with your project!
@@RundownReborn I didnt think about it that way. I like the rounded ceiling I just would love to paint it white and not have the big green room that I have now xD this is pretty good advice. Ill try it and see if it helps! Thank you so much!
Ha ha ha ha Awesome part 2! Thanks for the videos. You’ve helped me figure out what I’m gonna do with my bathroom that needs leveling. It’s a lot smaller thank God lol
Thanks for watching! Good luck with your project! 💪👍
Your fantastic. I ready to level my Yankee barn more sloped than the Himalayas Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Very good! Just what I needed to see! Thanks!
Awesome. Thanks for watching!
Would love to see the final look of your floor. Subscribed and liked!
Coming Soon! :)
In the meantime, check this video out: th-cam.com/video/lGhpXJFN8ak/w-d-xo.html
Excellent videos
Thank you for watching!
Thank you for sharing all the videos you share you do an amazing job... I have a two family duplex.. Just moved to the front apartment so i can slowly remodel the apartment i was living in and then I'll make it on big home for us... My floor is just as bad its a home from 1910. I have been watching ur videos over and over so i can memorize as much as possible. Question i have for you is. Where is the best place to find a high spot? Would it be by a door entrance next to perimeter wall?
Generally the perimeter is lower than the center. If you have a laser level, you can figure it out fairly quickly. Otherwise use a level on the floor and try to determine which way things are sloping. Start at an outer corner and keep working your way across the floor up hill. Eventually you will find the peak of the slope. Sometimes it can be the opposite corner of the house. Just depends which parts of the foundation have settled the most.
Good luck with your project!
Great dad and carpenter!
Thanks so much!
Great video.
Why did u not run sleepers parallel to joists?
Going perpendicular allowed be to distribute the new dead load evenly and stiffen up the floor diaphragm a bit more.
Thank you for both videos I’m redoing an old 1 room schoolhouse do you can imagine the level of those! Will be putting your technique to work.. also how did you start your channel? My wife and I are looking to do something similar?
Hello and thanks for joining the channel. I am sure the school house will test you but keep the faith. I encourage you to consider your own channel. It’s an exciting and creative thing but producing videos takes as much time as the house does. I have a video that explains how I started. Check it out.
th-cam.com/video/P_BhNnWLYHo/w-d-xo.html
Hmmm wouldn't adding that plastic keep the moisture in that cavity? Great vids btw I can see you did a lot of good work
It’s a vapor barrier keeping the basement moisture where it belongs… in the basement
thanks please keep making videos........you will get. Subs- viewers
Thanks for watching! Subs are coming!!! New videos too!
Do you think a band saw will be better to cut the sleeper wood? Thank you
A band saw would probably do the job. Not sure if it would be easier or not. Try both ways and let us all know what works best. Thanks for watching!
I had LVF installed “professionally” and it’s failing due to the unlevel subfloor. We also have a significant drop in one room especially. I want to try this. I have to remove all the flooring, fix the subfloor and then replace the flooring. My biggest concern was that the subfloor is thick, will the transition be weird, or did you calculate the thickness into your sleeper measurements?
Yes. I allowed for the thickness of the deck material. If you can’t get things level… you can use a transitional strip at door openings
What thickness osb did you end up using for this? Looks like 3/4 but could you have gone thinner?
Yes. I used 3/4” T&G. You don’t want to use thinner on floors. Too much flex. For a strong and stiff floor deck, use 3/4”.
I love the boys
Thanks for watching!
Can I use partical board instead?
Particle board is a loose term for oriented strand board (OSB). I recommend 23/32” thick tongue and groove osb which is what I used in the video. Plywood is not necessary. OSB is more than strong enough...and cheaper.
Question isn’t the osb floor supposed to be laid the other way so that the 8 ft would land on half of the joist and the tongue and groove would be between the joists
Good question. When overlaying the osb as a 2nd deck (where existing deck remains) I am running it perpendicular to the joists. This is because I wanted each sleeper wedge to be able to tie into multiple joists. If you are attaching the osb directly to the joists, you will want them running parallel to the joists so the t&g rests on a joists.
Rundown Reborn sounds good i was just curious great job
One other thing. When you run the 2nd layer of decking perpendicular to the existing floor joists and deck, the entire floor system becomes stronger and stiffer.
What size where the decking
I used 23/32 (3/4”) tongue and groove osb. It’s a very stiff sheet.
@@RundownReborn thanks!
The OSB T&G subfloor was not oriented correctly. It should have been oriented in the same manner as the adjoining room. This so that the tongue and groove supported the edges of the sheets across the joist (sleeper) bays. As oriented the butt joints can move independently instead of together. This orientation is problematic in another way... Due to the orientation of the strands, OSB is more rigid in it's length than in it's width. As such, the OSB will flex more the way it is oriented. Combined with the T&G not being oriented correctly that floor is going to have too much flex, potentially enough flex for things like laminate flooring, sheet flooring and tiles to crack at the OSB joints.
All good points. I turned the orientation because the floor structure below turned. To prevent the flex at the butt seam, shim underneath the joint.
@@RundownReborn I'd have been inclined to put nailer sleepers between the main sleepers at the end joints if needed.
Anyone who takes their kids bowling after remodeling deserves a thumbs up and subscribe! Thanks for your video! You young one has a great hook.
Thanks Ed. Did you notice my son’s name? 😁
@@RundownReborn I did not at first but I watched again then saw the boys were mentioned in the episode description. They both had some amazing hooks and must have done well for their ages even though no gutter pads were employed. Their hooks reminded of my Mom's. I do admire a father who spend time with their son(s) even after a hard day of DIY! Thanks for posting.
@@newgardener thanks for the kind words. Check out the video I posted this weekend (episode 43). It has some fantastic family time footage in it. It’s my best video to date imho.
This video and part 1 were super helpful! I just had a contractor come look at my 120 yo floors and recommend I try the same leveling technique myself. How long did it take you to level the flooring in your room? (And maybe how long do you think it would take an apprentice/beginner to do the same lol?)
It’s not hard. Spend a day clearing the room and getting the screws into position. Then spend a day laying out the shim sleepers. Then a third day installing the deck sheets. If you are quick..,you might get it done in two days. Glad to hear that the video was helpful.
I want to start off by saying your instructions on using sleepers to level the floor are very well done.
However you shouldnt have put the plastic between the 2 plywood floors because now you cant glue the flooring plywood to the sleepers. Glueing is absolutely necessary to insure your floors don't squeak. Also you are trapping moisture between the floors
One last thing plywood is not supposed to run parallel with the framing. The grain of the plywood is meant to run perpendicular to the framing. The plywood looses its strength when you run it parallel with the framing. You can check with the manufacturer to see im right
Hi Scott. Thanks for the feedback and for watching!
The plastic shouldn't be a problem. Laying the plastic vapor barrier over the floor will keep the moisture from getting into the living space. Its only on one side so the floor structure will still "breathe" from the underside. For me - my original floor boards are cedar so I am not too worried about the old floor rotting.
Regarding squeaky floors. The squeak you hear in floors is due to nails moving up and down in the wood. I used screws to secure the deck to the wood. I've nearly done the entire house with this process and have been walking on most of the floor for almost a year and haven't had any squeaks.
The plywood is running perpendicular to the floor joists under the original floor as are the sleepers. This is not a structural floor deck as I left the original floor in place. I used OSB (not plywood) which really has no grain direction. The intention of this top deck is to simply level the floor and add some stiffness to the overall floor system.
Hope this clears a few things up and thanks again for engaging with the video!
Hi there i liked your method, i was wondering if we didnt want to remove drywall, if cutting only what we need at the bottom is possible?
Also do you think contractors would be itnerested in this kind of project or would they think its too involved or charge a lot for it?
Cutting out the drywall seems appropriate. Contractor prices are from materials and labor. More labor = more costs
extremely helpful! you're an inspiration as I prepare to dive into my own home renovation. Question for you though, do you now have different ceiling heights on each side of the room? I'm trying to decide if I should jack up my house, or just level with a new subfloor like you've done here but the floors may have 3" of drop from one side of the room to the other, and I worry that the ceiling height difference will be noticeable, and that I may be creating more problems later down the road. Would love your thoughts!
Hi Trevor. Awesome to hear that you too are embarking on this new adventure. I can safely say that you will never be able to tell if your ceiling isn’t parallel with the floor. You might have some tricky drywall fitting and trimming if you are planning to drywall the house but once everything is finished and painted, you will never know if the ceiling is level or not. Check out my completed room video here: th-cam.com/video/lGhpXJFN8ak/w-d-xo.html
This room has about 2 inches of drop across it. It is the room I leveled in this video we are commenting on.
Good luck with your project and thanks for watching!
Felt tip line a lot easier to see on OSB.
Good tip! Thanks
Lemonade
👍😀
Great videos and planning to do this for a bathroom. Any concerns with putting tile down over this floor? I was thinking I would level, then add hardi board, then membrane/thinset/tile.
You got the right idea. Need the cement board to stiffen up the floor to prevent cracking in the grout
This video was SO helpful to me. I'm dealing with a 100+ years old planked subfloor, discovered after pulling up 20+ years old carpet laid by a previous owner of this house. The old subfloor is comprised of 4 and 6 in planks laid in an alternating pattern. It's only a small room and on an upper floor so, there's ceiling to the living area below under the planked subfloor in this room. Not certain on location of joists but it's only an 8 x 8 ft den space that's going to be a craft room/office and, the solid wood planks may do to rip and use some sleepers for levelling this floor as it's only one corner that's severe and it's at a wall junction on the interior walls. Someone please correct me if my thinking on that just won't do.
If the lower level is also not level in the same corner, most likely the house foundation settled in that area. If the lower floor is level, then there is a structural concern on the upper floor structure. Determine the cause for the floor structure drop and unevenness first. If the problem is structural, then a structural solution is needed such as floor joist reinforcement. If it’s a result of 100+ years of settlement, then most likely it was improper drainage of the yard in that area and the house settled unevenly. So long as the house isn’t continuing to settle at a noticeable rate, then a cosmetic fix such as floor leveling is probably the solution. Joists will be located perpendicular to the deck floor boards. Nails should be visible as to where they are located. End joints also occur at joist locations.
Thanks for these videos! I’m in the same boat here with my 114 yr old house. Structurally good but sagging joists and someone cut a few to put in a furnace. I put support beams in the basement which helped raise things a lot but this method is just what I need to do to level everything out and match it up with an extension that was added on 1.5 inches higher!
Glad it helped. Good luck with your project
thank you for the videos
Thank you so much for watching!
Think it would be easier to put the plastic down first, then the sleepers.
That would be fine too but airspace is always an extra thermal value
Hi. Are you putting subfloor over existing floor here?
Yes. I floated a new 7/8” deck that is level over the existing cedar plank deck.
Thank you so much for these videos! We're doing a kitchen remodel next year and my floor is pretty unlevel and I was sweating trying to fix it but this answers it!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
I think you don't know the purpose of tongue and groove .
How so?
My dude... your channel seems like a professional channel and I love in.
Thanks so much. I try. 🤪
what thickness OSB did you use for the 2nd floor? Do you have recommendations on getting it somewhat cheaper nowadays since lumber prices have skyrocketed?
I used 25/32 tongue and groove (aka "5 striped" osb). Its nominal size is 3/4 inch. As far as the price - you are at the mercy of supply and demand. Lumber mill production is slowed due to Covid and new home construction is booming. Also - do it yourselfer demand has also exploded as a result of Covid (people are home more). To add to all of this, much of the lumber comes from Canada and 20% trade tariffs are now in place which has also added to the price.
I have heard rumors that the price may start to come down in a couple of months time - or as soon as Covid issues start to calm. If you are in a rush - you may be needing to pony up about $30-35 per sheet right now. That is about a $10 premium to what prices were just 6-8 months ago before Covid hit.
Good luck with your project!
@@RundownReborn Thanks boss, I started putting some strips of wood into my floor to level my cabinets and I realized it just was not worth doing a part of the kitchen and might as well do the whole house since the wife and I want floating floors. Got a lot of projects to do. Thanks for all your help!
Would you do this same technique in leveling the subfloor in a second story bathroom?
I would. I did both levels of my house. But doing a bathroom means you may need to modify your plumbing fixtures
@@RundownReborn thanks. Seems like the joist has sank as well if I were to level it back out, the plumbing fixtures should be at the perfect height again.
Thank you
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
You’re the man!
LOL! Thanks 🙏
good job
Thanks
Nice instructional video. One question: won't laying the visqueen plastic sheeting over the joists lead to #moisture entrapment, causing #mold and #mildew if you are doing this in the #humid #deepSouth?
Thanks for watching Eric. Good Question!
Laying the plastic vapor barrier over the floor will keep the moisture from getting into the living space. Its only on one side. The floor structure will still "breathe" from the underside. If you have overly humid conditions (and where I am we do) and you are concerned about it - you can always ventilate your basement or crawl space with vents or an exhaust fan that is switched by a humidity sensor.
For me - my floor are cedar so I am not too worried about the old floor rotting. As for mold - the mold is already there in my basement on the underside of the floor deck. I am more concerned about the dirt, mold and bugs entering my living space than I am about any additional mildew formation. My basement does indeed need some ventilation - but I haven't dealt with that yet. Maybe down the road.
Hope this helps you out.
@RundownReborn
"but joints", "sleepers', etc... When you use terms like this and don't explain them, you make your video BORING!
Thanks for the feedback. I will try to do better.
Butt joints are when two edges meet together flush such as the edges of two boards or two deck sheets. Sleepers are the strips of wood I am attaching the deck sheets to. They are called this because they are non-structural and "sleep" below the deck.
Everything has a name - its part of the terms and vocabulary used in construction and home improvement. I try to use the proper names when explaining rather than refer to things as chunks of scrap wood (actually referred to as blocking) or plywood (actually called tongue and groove OSB deck sheets).
Thanks!