Grr-Ripper vs GrabberPRO vs Delmar Adjustable Multi-Purpose Professional Push Blocks
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ธ.ค. 2021
- ✅ SHOP NOTES: How does the venerable MicroJig Grr-Ripper hold up against a couple new kids on the (push) block? The new Milescraft GrabberPRO and the Delmar adjustable push blocks are the first of what I have no doubt will be many such products on the market. For an in-depth walk-through of each of these products, check out the video links below.
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Here are links to a few of the products I used or discussed in this video:
🟢 The MicroJig Grr-Ripper 3D GR-100: (Basic model shown in this video) amzn.to/3pWHJpg
🟢 The MicroJig Grr-Ripper 3D GR-200: (Upgraded version) amzn.to/3qcM9sv
🟢 The Milescraft GrabberPRO: (Basic model shown in this video) amzn.to/3dUQScd
🟢 The Delmar Tools Push Block: amzn.to/31ZAGDS
🎬 Here's a promotional video of the MicroJig Grr-Ripper Gr-100 and GR-200 push blocks and their differences: • GRR-RIPPER GR-100 vs G...
🎬 Here's a promotional video of the Milescraft GrabberPRO: • Milescraft 3406 Grabbe...
🎬 Here's a promotional video of the Delmar push block: • Delmar Tools Push Bloc...
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#Grr-Ripper #GrabberPRO #AdjustablePushBlock - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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The discussion of potential US Patent infringement was covered in this video: th-cam.com/video/Fyo2TSVwhrg/w-d-xo.html
A widow neighbor gave me several of her husbands woodworking tools… among them was a brand new Gripper still in the package. I was satisfied with the Shopsmith safety set and the myriad of feather boards, push blocks and sticks that I had made. So, I stuck it on a high shelf where it remained out of sight and mind for 8-9 years.
Right after I added onto my shop my carpenter buddy came over to look at it. He is a couple of inches taller than me and saw it on the dusty shelf in the old section of the shop.
He knew what it was and grabbed it. Then he started telling me how wonderful it was and how he used it all the time when he was working on his table saw.
I told him that I didn’t know how to use it. I was happy with the tools that I already had and he could take it home with him.
That brought out the look of pity… you know the one… where some one who believes they are wiser than you… turns their head to the side so they have one eye fixed on you. Then they tilt their forehead toward you with that air of authority! Then he said, “No thanks, I have two.”
I picked up on his gesture and added, “Maybe I’ll watch some YT videos and figure it out some day.”
He was having none of that… he sat his beer on the workbench, walked over to the tablesaw and began showing me all the things that he used his for. As he did, one major difference in preferences popped up… he never ever used a saw guard. I do so every time it is appropriate.
I find the guard comforting and an aid in dust collection. He doesn’t worry about dust because he works on construction sites… not in a confined shop. As far as safety goes… he relies on the Gripper or a chunk of scrap wood for a push stick.
After about a half hour, I realized there were certain circumstances where the Gripper would be advantageous… so, I kept it.
That was 6 years ago… since then, I’ve used it a maybe a half dozen times on the tablesaw. I’d probably use it more but, I have spent 35 years using my Shopsmith tools and homemade tools… giving up those and the saw guard are old habits that are hard to break!
Perhaps I’m wrong but, he has all of his fingers and, I still have mine!
What I have found is that it is handy on my router table… where setting up the Gripper is faster than figuring another way to keep my fingers out of the bit!
Those other two knock-offs that you showed, look to me to be accidents awaiting discovery!
Great story, Dave. I can recall a few instances where one of these would have come in handy, but rarely would one of these have been an improvement over the Shopsmith safety kit. The GrabberPRO is actually quite nice, but the Delmar should have a hole in it where you can connect a leash to it, if you know what I mean. Scott
An interesting review! We will point out that we do currently make the GRR-RIPPER 100 and 200 in BOTH Taiwan and Ohio. Having a diverse supply chain is just good management in today's world.
Also, what we are used to is what we tend to be comfortable with. The ShopSmith is a great machine but that small table gives me the willies and I have been woodworking professionally for 30+ years! I'm just used to a bit more real estate.
One of the main advantages of the GRR-RIPPER system is that with legs on both sides of the blade, we are controlling both sides of the cut, and keeping both the rip and offcut parts from rubbing on the rear of the blade which can cause toolmarks, burning and even kickback.
We will also point out that there is a reason that other brands are copying the GR-100: Because it works!
We have subscribed to your channel and will be happy to answer questions your viewers may have.
Thank you for dropping in and I appreciate you joining in the conversation. Good to hear that you are still making product in Ohio. I too was made in Ohio! I’ve been using my Shopsmith equipment since the mid 80s, and though I’ve worked in some commercial shops as well, I appreciate the intimate nature of the mark five model 510/520 table. The earlier versions have my much smaller table which I find uncomfortable and intimidating. You’re correct that the success of your product speaks for itself, and it clearly is a versatile accessory. Happy to count you among my subscribers. Scott
Its a knock off and its so obvious! I have two grippers i love them and theres nothing that comes close! Best and safest tool i have, well worth the money! Thanks
It's the price point of your product that turns me off. You are certainly selling a valuable safety tool and you know it and I feel $70 is very exploitative profiteering. Nothing made of silicone and blow mould plastic should be so expensive. There are many woodworkers who cannot justify what you ask for this when we can simply cut a notch into a 2 x 4 and basically make the same level of safety.
@@kupariusa4202 Sorry you feel that way. The GRR-RIPPER is injection molded, not blow molded, and the feet are molded rubber not silicone. We guarantee our tools for three years and every piece in the GRR-RIPPER can be replaced if damaged.
Assemble a GRR-RIPPER and you will see the myriad of details we add to make it a top performing tool.
And bottom line, it is inexpensive insurance. Save one saw injury and your GRR-RIPPER has paid for itself many times over.
@@Microjig At $70 for plastic and rubber? No. This is an overpriced safety tool I can make out of a 2 x 4 and likely be safer with.
Good video, thanks. I have been meaning to get one of these, and have looked at all three.
Have used both, much prefer the Grabber PRO
When pushing in long stock you'll have to reposition your block maybe 2 or 3 times as you're feeding.. The Grabber just seems to be more solid as the larger size is gripping more surface
Great video, very nice comparison of the three products and contrast against the Shopsmith safety kit. Also, Thanks for the very generous mention!
I have 2 GRR-RIPPERs and use them frequently for rips and special cuts. Micro Jig recommends a hand-over-hand motion for ripping log boards. It really works, that could be an advantage to the smaller footprint of the GRR-RIPPER. In addition to a stable blade (little wobble and flex) and proper table saw alignment, I credit my GRR-RIPPERs with my ability to get glue ready rips cuts 90% of the time.
I REALLY like the "3D Push Block" concept; push down, push forward, push against the fence. That being said, I still use my Shopsmith safety kit the majority of the time, because as others have mentioned, it is compatible with the upper saw guard. I will also add that the GRR-RIPPER is good peace of mind when ripping with the fence too close to the blade to allow the fence straddler and upper guard to fit.
Thanks Tom, and thanks again for the heads-up on your video. I’ll make sure to add a link to it once it goes live. Scott
You asked for my comments, so here they are:
1. I don't want a push block that requires removal of the riving knife/upper saw guard. That's just asking for trouble.
2. If the riving knife/upper saw guard can't be used; I don't want a push block that covers the blade during a cut. I want the ability to see the blade at anytime during the cut.
3. I don't want to focus on keeping a pusher against the fence. I want to be focused on the cut as it happens.
For you fans of aftermarket push blocks, I'm sorry, but the Shopsmith fence straddler is the pinnacle of pushers.
You'll get no argument from me! It really is amazing how well Shopsmith thought this through all those years ago. Scott
I have both the gripper 3d and the grip block and while I bought the gripper to be used on the tablesaw I rarely use it in that application. mostly I use it on the router table and jointer along with the grip block. These tools are very well built and I have no complaints whatsoever.
Having said that the milescraft tools were not on the market (to my knowledge) at the time I purchased the other products and I likely would have gone with the milescraft tools just due to price. Its a push block. no need to spend extra.
Thanks for the video. Keep up the good work.
Thanks, will do! Scott
Thanks for the great video Scott 👍 I, like you, use my Shopsmith safety kit and have never felt the need for the Gripper. If I did I think that I would build one.
I get that too, Mark.
Scott, 3 minor points.
1) the gripper comes with a balance beam like the grabber.
2) a plastic sacrificial push block is available at extra cost however a lot of people make their own out of Masonite
3) if you look at the top of the gripper you will see a pair of slots. this allows you to change the balance or rotate the handle so that it is at an angle. I find that this angle encourages me to maintain pressure against the fence.
Stay healthy, Russ
Russell, you are correct about the balance beam. I took it off (or maybe I never installed it) because it wasn't needed for the cut I was making. Great tip about using Masonite! I also played around with positioning the handle as I assembled it. Speaking of that, I should include some footage of the assembly process in my follow-up video, because the process was VASTLY different between these three. Thanks for the tips and observations. Scott
You can't lean the Microjig one's handle without buying an expensive accessory.
I have had my Grr-Ripper GR-200 for several years, and I love it. With the Grr-Ripper, I can rip strips as small as 1/8x1/8-inch. I could go smaller if I could bring myself to sacrifice one of the legs.
If the MilesCrsaft version had been around, I would likely have tried it.
Robert, isn't it funny how even though they are made to be sacrificial how you try not to saw through them? I don't blame you one bit. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Yes, thatsame thought had occurred to me.
My old Craftsman tablesaw actually has a microjig splitter kit since it had no blade guard or riving knife (seldom use SS tablesaw except for batch operations) because of this the Grrripper works very well for me
That was a smart choice.
The problem with that push block that straddles the fence is that it doesn't exert a force to push the stock against the fence. It actually would have a tendency to do the opposite.
You would want to use a feather board in conjunction with it.
Thank you for the demonstration. I just started using a table saw. I think I like the Milescraft better. Appreciate the video. I subscribed.
Thanks, and it’s good to have you here. Be safe and have fun. Scott
Thanks for the comparison! Esp. including the Milescraft entry, that is apparently quite new and I hadn't seen yet. (Have a few of their other items and their quite nice for the price.) Previously had my eye on the Delmar, but the lack of grip (and wobble) turned me off.
Happy to help. Yeah, the Delmar was a disappointment. Scott
I have a 2 pack of the gripper complete. Purchased at a wood show and glad I did. Safety of the gripper is great and It is not that much more... get the best.
Once you amortize an investment in a good tool it's easy to justify paying a little more. Scot
Shopsmith sells a riving knife that is compatible with the GRR-RIPPER, model 556223. I bought this part new from Shopsmith when I received a GRR-RIPPER from my wife for Christmas. I never run the table saw (except for the dado blade) with out either the upper guard or the riving knife, including while using the GRR-RIPPER.
That aspect of this demo made me very uncomfortable and I sure wish I had a SS in hand for this occasion. I don’t see myself making a habit of making cuts this way. Scott
Tom… I was wondering if there was a standalone SS riving knife… thanks for reminding me to research it!
Looking at the Milescraft, I like the features. I don't know who else is saying this in the comments, but the back part you took off is to help push wood through the planer. Its also why the angles handle. Best way to apply things evenly. Also I saw the orange slip and you as you made the last cut, worried me you get hit by kick back.
Yes, the orange one slipped like crazy! You are right about the little pusher. For face jointing it would come in very handy. Scott
I own the Gripper and always use it where appropriate. I have never seen the other 2.
I hadn’t seen them either. There is a faithful Chinese “clone” circulating outside of the USA that I suspect we’ll be seeing soon. Probably at Harbor Freight. Scott
i can confirm that SS makes a nice smooth cut on the Grr-Ripper when you push it into the blade......
Ha! Well, that's good to know. Scott
Comprei a Milescraft GrabberPRO, excelente produto...
Not sure you touched on the main advantages of thes tools and that is the pressure they provide simultaneously, forward pressure (parallel to the fence) inward pressure (toward the fence) and downward pessure (towards the table).
I've always like the idea of Microjigs "Gripper" but wasn't too keen on their price so i purchased the Milescraft version for roughly half the cost and so far i'm completely satisfied!
I have a pair of the Grr-Rippers and like them very much. I don't use them on any wider cuts, but for narrow cuts they work really well. I haven't yet mastered the hand over hand method of using two on long cuts. Perhaps that's because I'm left handed. :). I doubt very much the the much longer Chinese knock-off would offer any advantage. It's super Chinese size reminded me of the time I bought a Super Shop that bragged about how much beefier it was than Shopsmith. Yes, it was beefier, but the machining was poor and just a few years later they stopped making the tool or supplying parts. I am back in the wonderful land of Shopsmith! Glen
Great point, Glen. It’s like some of the knock-off air buds that look just like the Apple AirBuds, but are 30% larger and don’t fit comfortable into ear canals. More isn’t always better. Scott
Been using one for years. Works great on a router table too
Good to hear! Do you use your upper guard? Scott
@@MyGrowthRings most of the time. But when I need to I put the riving knife in , I find I get better vision of the piece than with the guard and the over fence pusher. I tend to Inadvertently push the guard into the blade.
I've always set my grippers handle at an angle towards the fence. I noticed it gave me a leverage feeling much lile the standard shopsmith.
I played with that a little as I was assembling it. Did you add the handle bridge to yours? Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I didn't even know there was one. Honestly when it comes to tools I've found that less moving parts the better. I have anxiety issues when pushing stock through as it is and not being as close to 100% confident as possible with any tool or machine is what causes safety mistakes. Usually most mistakes are made because people get "Too Comfortable". It's already hard enough being left handed and learning from a right handers perspective. Do you have the bridge on yours? Have you seen any real improvements? I honestly wish shopsmith would bring out a push block and stick holder (mostly a stick) I keep mine in my pocket until needed but I've made the mistake of feeding stock halfway through and the stick vibrate off the table in the process 😅 😬 and I'm stuck in a "hmmm" moment of what do I do??!! I end up hitting the safety switch, gathering up my push stick, and starting the cut again. Thought about adding some velcro to the push blocks and stick but can't decide where to actually hang them that's any more awkward to reach for as is keeping it in my pocket. I watch your videos and quite a few others like Doug and all that and yall make it seem so effortless and I know it "just comes with practice" over many years but also have respect for the piece of machinery and know it isn't forgiving, won't say it's sorry, during the learning process.
1. Its amazing how much sawdust gets into the air without the upper guard on.
2. I'd feel less tense watching you touching the blade if there wasn't something, possibly big and gray, plugged into the wall in the background. Also seems to happen if you're just waving your hands close to sharp cutty things.
Yes, I really don’t like having the guard off and it does trap or at least divert dust away. The cord that is plugged in is the cord for the Mark V I’m using. The big grey thing at 12:00 is a bandsaw in a Power Station (motorized stand) and the thing on the floor below the outlet is a spare main table for a Mark V model 510. Nothing to feel tense about and they are both 6’ beyond what I am doing, though it might not look like it. Scott
I did buy a used one, but haven’t used it. I was thinking of it for making angle cuts. I hear that our upper guard can be a pain when making those cuts. I have tilted my table with the guard on and it slide down in to the saw blade. Now I have never tried this with the blade running and it could be that theirs something defective with my guard? I believe I also seen a video where someone else had the same thing going on.
From your testing I’m going to stay with the grr-ripper. You same to have the best control with it. Like you the only thing I like about the grabber was the length.
Kirk, you do have to keep an eye on the upper guard to make sure it doesn't slide down into the blade when the table is tilted. Once you get the technique down it isn't a problem, but if you do eliminate the guard then either the Grr-Ripper or the GrabberPro would be a wise investment for sure. And if you already own one, that's even better! Scott
There is a learning curve to these. I noticed you were sliding them toward the rear of the boards as if they were a push stick. Best to center then over the middle of the board and on long pieces you can use multiples.
Do you use a Shopsmith? The table on the Shopsmith is shallower than many table saws, so yes, I do use these in a manner that is similar to a traditional push block because if I don’t slide it back I’m putting pressure on the stock as it is leaving the rear of the table. Scott
I got two grippers use them all the time
That’s great, Cole. Mostly for sawing? Scott
Seems to me there is more time adjusting the push block to fit the cutting operation than the setup of the saw for the cut in the first place. Being conscious of the cut one is making without the addition of "Is the push block set up right?" or I'd end up with a compromised Grr-Ripper? I have been tempted by the Grr-Ripper but the Shopsmith and shopmade pushers are working well for me.
I suspect that once you become familiar with them there would be far less fiddling involved. You are right about the concern about pushing them into the blade. The legs are replaceable and sacrificial, but why would I destroy them if I didn’t have to? For the type of cuts I made here I would reach for my shop made “Jack the Stipper”. Scott
After 50 years of woodworking, I was ripping an 18 inch board - the blade picked up the offcut FOR NO REASON and drove it into the drywall behind me... Freaked me out... Bought a Gripper because it controls the offcuts... Works great! Just sayin'
Glade it all worked out well for you.
Scott, it seems to me you were more comfortable while using the Milescraft push block. Could it have been the angled handle?
As you mentioned the angled handle of the Milescraft is very similar to the Shopsmith push block, which would be a big selling feature to me.
I can also see where the Milescraft would be good to use with the jointer; being it has the "catch" that can hang down and can catch the end of the stock to help push it. And again, with the angled handle to help keep the stock against the jointer fence.
Years ago I took a Shopsmith push block and glued a narrow strip of 1/4" plywood to the back edge just for use with the jointer, and does the same thing as what the Milescraft push block does right out of the package for that.
I think you are absolutely right. The angle of the handle on the Milescraft is much more comfortable to me. I’ve also added a pusher to a couple SS push blocks. I cut them off flat on one end and used wood screws and it works great. Scott
My 2 Grrrippers have been one of my go to tools in my shop for years .the grabberpro looks like could be a complement to my shop the Delmar ,on the other hand, looks downright dangerous
I haven't seen anything in this video to convince me to switch away from the SS tools. The straddler, combined with the feather board allow me to use the top guard/riving knife which I won't work without for through cuts. I also have Jack the Stripper and use that frequently. The only problem with Jack is that there is no hold down force. But, I also know that I can combat that with some double sided tape.
I suppose I need to go back to the drawing board...
I have a gripper, I use it for thin pieces and that's about it. Push sticks of various shapes for the rest. The gripper is good but over priced in my opion
The rear push piece on the GrabberPro would be for use on the jointer or router table. I really don't think they intend for you to cut through it on the table saw.
Scott, I find that I use the Gripper more often when running stock across my SS mounted router table because of the control it gives me. Your thoughts?
I can see that. Of course the Shopsmith push block always did fine there too. Thanks for chiming in, Michael. Scott
I have learned never to use the table saw without the riving knife. You are asking for a catch as you swing the grabber across the back of the blade. Take care.
Yep, it’s a wise practice.
as with many of the jigs, it seems shopsmith has already covered pretty much everything with their own stuff. not to mention, those things can be had for ridiculously low price on the second hand market - my ProFence stratler cost $10!
I need a profence stradler. Did you find yours on ebay?
Very good point, Todd.
@@danasmith8950 yes but because i bought other stuff no shipping cost!
Hi , nice video ... I cant seem to find the 'fence straddler' ... where can I buy this ? thank you
It is made and sold by Shopsmith and is available on their website and on eBay. Scott
I didn't know there were clones to the gripper.
I use my gripper all the time. I like the way it controls both sides of the cut. Instead of dropping one to the floor.
What I see cost wise is milescraft includes a lot of the features that the gripper charges extra for
Another great video, thanks.
You are right about the GrabberPRO having a few extras that don't come with the Grr-Ripper. And yes, I suspect that we'll be seeing a lot more clones soon. Scott
I don't have to remove the riving knife to use the gripper on my Sawstop, it goes right over it. I also have a grabber pro and I really like it better than the gripper.
Hey Jim. Shopsmith also has a riving knife that can be used in place of the upper saw guard in riving Main combo, I just haven’t been smart enough to purchase one yet! Thanks for chiming in. Scott.
I have the gripper but feel that SS tools are more than adequate!
I totally agree!
The Dalmar one looked like it is hot garbage, even before you used it.
I got a 2 pack of the Gripper "Complete" a few years ago and use them for a lot of things.
Yeah, the Delmar was unimpressive. Scott
Whoops, forgot to ask my question. On the Milescraft GrabberPro, what is the bar on which the middle legs slides on made of? It appears to be metal, if aluminum that could be okay for carbide blades should the blade be set too high. Is that bar replaceable? If so I see that as an advantage over the GRR-RIPPER, where if you nick the sliders you basically would need to replace the body.
I’ll have to check and that’s an excellent question. Aluminum would be my guess but will have to confirm.
I know this is primarily a Shopsmith channel, but as a SawStop user, hitting the metal bar would be an expensive proposition as I would be out the cost of a brake cartridge and a blade in addition to the Grabber push block itself. So that's a no for me.
Mark, quite a bit off topic, but I'm wondering if we can revisit tablesaw setup sometime. My question is, if I make a crosscut sled, how can I set up the saw so that the blade cuts in exactly the same place with each setup? My thinking is, everytime I tear down and reset up the tablesaw, the blade will be in a slightly different position. Is there a way to set up the saw, so the blade is always in exactly the same position in relation to the table, so I'm not enlarging the zero clearance insert, or the cross cut sled with each successive use and setup?
Hey Albert, Mark isn’t available but this is Scott. the only way to ensure that the blade would land in exactly the same spot every time you’d have to replace the rubber number between the headstock and the carriage with something rigid, like a slice of PVC pipe. The 1960’s Mark VII had a connecting rod between the headstock and carriage that actually locked them together, and that did the trick. I’ve never had an issue with this because I always slowly lower the table over the blade with the carriage loose and make fine adjustments between the two as I lower the table. If you lock everything down first there’s a good chance it will be slightly different each time. Scott
What do you use a sliding crosscut table for that can’t be done as well and as safely using a miter gauge extension with a sliding stop on it. There are plans for one in the Power Tool For Woodworking book. Mine is on pg. 23. Modern power tool woodworking also has similar but not the same drawings.
@@daveschmitt6369 I used to use one all the time before I got a chop saw. They are great for cross-cutting long stock that might otherwise be unwieldy with the miter gauge. They are also very safe when cutting small stock that might otherwise get sucked into the blade slot or thrown out of the blade. I didn’t use it for everything, but once you have one you’ll use it for a lot of cross-cutting. Scott
Put that orange one straight in the bin!
What about the patents? I didn't hear you talk about them. Did I miss that?
That was covered in this video: th-cam.com/video/Fyo2TSVwhrg/w-d-xo.html
Didn't know Ron White was into woodworking.
They call me Tater Salad
I have a gripper but the price will stop me from ever having another I am going to try the grabber price is a factor in my situation , retired.
How do you like the grabber?
What kind of grip do they have if the board is dusty?
The Grr-Ripper had the best traction in the presence of dust, followed closely by the GrabberPRO, but the Delmar slipped even without dust! Not impressed with that one. Scott
They recommend when it becomes dusty to wipe with alcohol and the grippyness is returned.
Thank you Scott. That was the information I was looking for.
All seem to work, but I'll stay with the Grr-Ripper. It is better built IMHO and more flexible than the others (the Grr-Ripper 200 particularly). It costs more, but you get what you pay for. I like it so much I just picked up a 2nd on holiday sale.
As a side note... it works very well on larger table saws, like my 10" Craftsman 113 series with extension wings added (I have 36" of rip capacity, 27" table length front to back). Smaller saws, like yours shown, tend to not have enough table size and I noted that you tipped the workpiece several times while feeding it. That can be dangerous.
Yes, it never tips in “normal” use with my feather board and a fence extension that I made that offers support after the cut. I’ve been working with the Mark V using the Shopsmith safety kit for so long that these felt totally alien to me.
I don't know why people keep repeating this myth about getting what you pay for. Pricing does not necessarily correlate with quality, durability or usefulness.
I had thought about getting a Gripper but the time and effort setting it up seems like a waste. Shop made, disposable push devices work best. I have lots of fun designing, building and when wore out, fire pit! I don’t like the idea of not being able to see and feel hitting the fence. My nickels worth (inflation).
Thomas, the idea of pressing any push block against the fence runs against my instincts too. It would be very easy to miss a gap between the stock and the fence. Scott
Worried about kickback without a securiry fence ..
Kickback is a scary thing, for sure.
I made a straddle push years ago 3/4 inch wood on all 3 sides glued with a small handle on top. Must have cost me 3 bucks my hand rests on top of block on fence. You don't need all this stuff
I don’t think that “need” is an applicable word here. People want what they want and some of them want it now. Lots of people would never take the time to make a taper jig, for example, but some of us will spend more time designing and building a jig than what we will ever spend using it. People are the craziest people! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings guess so, My stradle is so close to the fence that the weather makes a difference hence that plastic stradle would be worth looking at
@@dgale1023 Have you seen my jig that I call “Jack the stripper”? I use it more times than not when making these types of cuts. Search for the video, it’s simple and works awesome.
@@MyGrowthRings no I haven't but I will look for it. Thank you
@@dgale1023 Thanks for chiming in, and I agree with you more than you know.
Spooky. I rarely take my saw guard off. I could see a situation after making a bunch of cuts with the grabber and then wanting to make just one more cut and saying to myself that I don’t need the blade guard and seeing the grabber over in another corner of the shop. What the heck, it’s just one cut. Letting your guard down both figuratively and literally.
I agree, Philip. I always make through cuts like this with the upper guard in place and won’t change that approach.
Stumpy Numbs (James Hamilton) made a video about a year ago for a fence riding type push block. I wonder where he got the idea from...? Looks like a design I've seen somewhere before, but I can't quite put my finger on it, lol. th-cam.com/video/UIqsT2VESk4/w-d-xo.html
Hummm, you have to wonder.
From the tone of this comment I take it that this channel may have had a similar push block at some point? I never saw it, but push blocks of that design have been featured in woodworking magazines and other sources for years. It's funny how people seem to think the first place THEY saw it was the first place it ever appeared. :)
@@StumpyNubs No, this channel has not had a similar push block at some point. The fence riding type push block design I was referring to has been available from Shopsmith since the late 1980's. Which your own design bares a striking resemblance to, and was what I was referring to. Other viewers of this channel might draw the same conclusion I had, if they have seen your video on your fence riding type push block, and also know of, and perhaps own the Shopsmith version of the "fence straddler", as I do. So, no "tone" to my comment, just a simple observation.
P.S. With all due respect; how the heck did you find this video and my comment? Your channel is Huge compared to this one. I mean that as a complement to you, James. I've been a long time subscriber to your channel, and a loyal viewer.
@@chadnevels246 I just did a Cool Tools that included the GrabberPRO and I decided to watch this video about it to see what it said. I skimmed the comments for more opinions and saw this comment :)
@@StumpyNubs If it's the video you just put out, then I'll be watching it here this evening.
I'm sorry but for a woodworker on a budget the grabber is the better deal its 20 dollars cheaper and works just as well
Why are you sorry?
You mean to tell me that your ShopSmith saw does NOT have a riving knife other than the blade guard riving knife? So you are supposed to make non-thru cuts without any riving knife?? Wow, that sucks!
No Larry, Shopsmith does make a riving knife for non-through cuts.
Here’s the webpage: www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/non_thru_cut_riving_knife.htm
Looks like a whole lot of misinformation from a fundamental misunderstanding of how to properly use the tool, mixed with your own bias. Watch the official tutorial and you'll see the ONLY time you pick up the Microjig Gripper is if you have two of them and doing leap-frog pattern for long cuts.
Additionally, all these comments and people saying they gotta have their blade guard... The Gripper is marketed as a MOVING blade guard. It does all of the same things.
Can you please cite the misinformation you heard? Thanks for dropping by. Scott
My SawStop blade guard also serves as a dust collector, so that function is lost when it is removed. Maybe there will be a Grripper 2.0 with dust collection!
I don't get the appeal of these risky accessories.
It really is interesting what folks will do in the name of safety while not using the saw guard! Scott
I noticed the “Jack the Stripper” in my Power Tool for wood working book on page 26. They call it a spacing tool. I use repurposed wood for most of my woodworking projects, so I would need to make a new base each time I use it.
@@daveschmitt6369 I don’t recall it being there. Does it have a flop stop that keeps it from moving when ripped the bulk of the board and that pushes the stock through at the end of the cut?
Rip off! I bought it. I should have made my own blocks!