I'd have to re-watch my own video to see what I exactly said, however, your first link said in the first few seconds: "it sends light in every direction" as in another definition for diffusion. If I had said "softening" then my intended meaning was basically the same. Most of my videos are based on personal experience of actually doing photography. As for HSS, that specific flash requires that it be switched on all of the time for the system to utilize higher shutter speeds in p-TTL.
Thanks for this video. I could use the help with camera (Pentax K-5II) and hot shoe mounted flash (Pentax AF360FZ) settings. I don't do much flash photography but it seems I keep getting asked to photograph in dimly lit restaurants, homes and business functions. This vid will be a big help.
Now that I watched the entire video, I see the point you are trying to make . "Soft" based on his definition is different than "diffuse." In the case of my technique, the goal is to use semi-automatic mode in fast paced settings where the diffusion material has a number of benefits. Yes, I do use some of my diffusers, but not the sto-fen. There is a difference in results from a bare flash and diffuser outside or inside. Try things yourself and don't pay too much attention to us. :)
im trying to use my flash as an optical slave and using the on camera flash to trigger it. I am using the k5 ii and it seems to be triggering the flash before the actual exposure. Its my first time using flash and im not familiar with the flash settings on pentax
I haven't used Pentax equipment in many years so I can't give you specifics on camera settings. Check your flash to see if you can switch it to a second type of slave mode. If your camera is in TTL mode then it will fire off two bursts of light. The first being a pre-flash that that camera uses to judge the exposure. If you remote trigger is set to the normal slave mode then it will try to flash before the picture is taken.
This is an old video, so not sure what I had said. Flash would "freeze" part of the exposure for the duration of the flash burst of a slow shutter speed capture. The positive there is that you will get a sharp photo that's lit by the flash, but the side-effect is that there could be visible ghosting/bluring as well due to the long exposure. "Dragging the shutter" with flash is a popular technique in event photography: www.slrlounge.com/create-reception-images-drag-shutter/
Yes I often forget about dragging shutter for cool effects but when you are shooting a corporate award show at a Hilton, the client isn’t interested in that. Manual mode is the only way to keep ISO down and shutter speed tolerable doing events hand held. I would love to find a way to do something like AP mode but it’s not feasible in many situations. For instance. I have two girls that want a photo and I’m at 3.5 it’s ok. But then 4 more girls jump in and I have to now bump it up to around 8.0. I have to have the manual control to keep the shutter speed getting too slow.
@@SeanP7195 Yeah, manual mode certainly gives you a reliable result (and isn't too difficult if lighting is somewhat consistent). I'm probably not going to re-watch the video to see what I said, so just think of it as one potential option for some uses cases rather than something that would fit your specific needs. I don't even recall how Pentax aperture priority worked (some forms of aperture priority give an option to set a minimum shutter speed, and I'd assume the camera would compensate with whatever exposure variables are not fixed, which would be flash power in that case. The Nikons I had even had an option for foreground/background exposure priority). All of the flash I do these days is with wireless manual flash (Godox TT600 with a RF commander unit) and in manual camera mode, but none of it is in a fast paced situation. Though, I haven't even used flash since my switch from Nikon D600/750 to these consumer Canon M50/M100 bodies. Most of my photography lately is nature related. Best of luck finding an ideal solution.
I'm glad it helped. I should think about this and see if I can come up with more camera settings videos.
I bought i K-5 too, always good learning about it.
I'd have to re-watch my own video to see what I exactly said, however, your first link said in the first few seconds: "it sends light in every direction" as in another definition for diffusion. If I had said "softening" then my intended meaning was basically the same. Most of my videos are based on personal experience of actually doing photography. As for HSS, that specific flash requires that it be switched on all of the time for the system to utilize higher shutter speeds in p-TTL.
Thanks for this video. I could use the help with camera (Pentax K-5II) and hot shoe mounted flash (Pentax AF360FZ) settings. I don't do much flash photography but it seems I keep getting asked to photograph in dimly lit restaurants, homes and business functions. This vid will be a big help.
thanks for the tips.. was really usefull
Now that I watched the entire video, I see the point you are trying to make . "Soft" based on his definition is different than "diffuse." In the case of my technique, the goal is to use semi-automatic mode in fast paced settings where the diffusion material has a number of benefits. Yes, I do use some of my diffusers, but not the sto-fen. There is a difference in results from a bare flash and diffuser outside or inside. Try things yourself and don't pay too much attention to us. :)
im trying to use my flash as an optical slave and using the on camera flash to trigger it. I am using the k5 ii and it seems to be triggering the flash before the actual exposure. Its my first time using flash and im not familiar with the flash settings on pentax
I haven't used Pentax equipment in many years so I can't give you specifics on camera settings. Check your flash to see if you can switch it to a second type of slave mode. If your camera is in TTL mode then it will fire off two bursts of light. The first being a pre-flash that that camera uses to judge the exposure. If you remote trigger is set to the normal slave mode then it will try to flash before the picture is taken.
@@ScottJWaldron I got a cheap old flash and there is only one slave setting
But won’t your SS be too slow like this? With only 800 ISO the cameras SS would get real slow and hand held you’d get a lot of shake.
This is an old video, so not sure what I had said. Flash would "freeze" part of the exposure for the duration of the flash burst of a slow shutter speed capture. The positive there is that you will get a sharp photo that's lit by the flash, but the side-effect is that there could be visible ghosting/bluring as well due to the long exposure. "Dragging the shutter" with flash is a popular technique in event photography: www.slrlounge.com/create-reception-images-drag-shutter/
Yes I often forget about dragging shutter for cool effects but when you are shooting a corporate award show at a Hilton, the client isn’t interested in that. Manual mode is the only way to keep ISO down and shutter speed tolerable doing events hand held. I would love to find a way to do something like AP mode but it’s not feasible in many situations. For instance. I have two girls that want a photo and I’m at 3.5 it’s ok. But then 4 more girls jump in and I have to now bump it up to around 8.0. I have to have the manual control to keep the shutter speed getting too slow.
@@SeanP7195 Yeah, manual mode certainly gives you a reliable result (and isn't too difficult if lighting is somewhat consistent). I'm probably not going to re-watch the video to see what I said, so just think of it as one potential option for some uses cases rather than something that would fit your specific needs. I don't even recall how Pentax aperture priority worked (some forms of aperture priority give an option to set a minimum shutter speed, and I'd assume the camera would compensate with whatever exposure variables are not fixed, which would be flash power in that case. The Nikons I had even had an option for foreground/background exposure priority). All of the flash I do these days is with wireless manual flash (Godox TT600 with a RF commander unit) and in manual camera mode, but none of it is in a fast paced situation. Though, I haven't even used flash since my switch from Nikon D600/750 to these consumer Canon M50/M100 bodies. Most of my photography lately is nature related. Best of luck finding an ideal solution.
Do you have any references to your claim that diffusers don't diffuse light? I'm sorry your don't agree, but using expletives won't help your case.
can you make a tutorial for people who only use the built-in flash? (for dslr)
thanks :)
Sorry. Fell asleep watching this one
Same
You talk very slowly one really needs a lot of patient .
I could bear you only for 43 seconds.