File the bottom of the dash, and cut those lower corners off (maybe add press-on auto edge trim). The dash will act like a big blade if you contact it with legs etc.
@@TRIPPIE_OTX He doesn't have the knowledge required to take on a build like this. He proves that with every video. That thing is a death trap. There isn't much that is done correctly. The worst part is that he is constantly being told what a great job he is doing by people who clearly don't know what they are talking about.
@Lance Washington I'm all for learning a new skill but not at the expense of your life. He needs to have someone with who actually knows what he is doing to help him. He lacks the skills needed for this project.
@Lance Washington What is really scary is Vasily is actually a really good fabricator for his age. He could actually do a project like this. He made a simple mistake and shattered his leg. This guy is doomed.
@Lance Washington On the contrary, I would like to see him succeed with this build. That is why I've been hounding him to get help from someone with experience. Migs isn't stupid. He just needs guidance.
R7 kelley definitely. It’s rare to see kids nowadays tinkering with engines and using their imagination to build something! It’s all about Xbox’s and PlayStations now
you should connected the fuel pump to the engine power so when the engine kill switch is in the ON position the fuel pump engages and will disengage when the switch is off.
You unplugged the (-) wire from the coil and connected the teach that was WRONG you HAVE to keep both coils plugged in and tap into the (-) wire with both still connected...
The wheel speed sensor type thing is easily removable and I’m sure you could find a way to make it read the speed of the front wheels. You might have to to a little gearing to compensate for the different axle diameters
They have speedometers on Amazon just look up quad speedometer and they just use a magnet on the break caliper it's hard to explain but it's really easy to use and they aren't super expensive
See if the speedometer cable ends are the same as the tachometer cable cause it's longer. If there the same, is it long enough? Also can you possibly join them together? Or join it to the 40' you scene online? Side note when welding keep the circular or c motion going as you move along and play with the welder feed settings to match your speed along the work piece.make sure your as comfortable as possible well welding. Sometimes body placement is the difference between a good and a bad weld
The reason the tachometer your friend gave you didn't work on the CB750 is because a Briggs coil passes over a magnet which creates a charge and sends it to the spark plug and the tach. The faster the engine spins, the more electricity goes to the tachometer, giving it a higher rpm reading. So if you managed to use that flat bar on the valve cover to spin a little DC motor connected to a AC to DC rectifyer that sends electricity through the green wire on the tach, it should work just fine. Good luck man.
Is there wires from that cord for the tac? If so, cut the end off leaving yourself room to spice wire on. Get some wire to run between one end and splice both original ends on at each end. I don’t know if it’s just a cable or if it has actual wires going to each end but if it’s wires then you can extend it yourself reusing the original ends. Just throwing that out there. It may not even work like that. 🤷♂️
I would try using a speedometer cable for a Tack cable. It's just a flexible cable that turns inside the gauge. And you should utilize all that wall space for tool hooks and a dry erase board to make a to do list.
If I were you I’d get a soldering iron and solder those push button wire extensions together. Butt connectors don’t hold very good if you put any sort of tension on them. I’d also get more then one colored wire. Having different colored wires makes diagnostics easier if anything were to break
Maybe bend 1/4" lip at the bottom of that dash, so it isn't so sharp and it also gives some stiffnes to it. The lower end needs also some support, otherwise it will brake loose next to the weld seam. Maybe some round steel rods welded from the frame to the bottom of the dash, or extend the dash across whole cockpit?
Now usually most people would make sure it runs perfect drives like new and just drive the hell out of it before doing all the finishing touches so there isn’t any wasted time if it were to flop.
Harbor freight and many other places sell black plastic loom tubing that you can tuck all of your wiring in, also it would’ve been easier to weld three tabs to that front bar then pop rivet the dash plate to those three tabs.
That thing you took off of the switch is contact block. You should have looks like 2 connections across from each other and one side is normally closed if you want fire running through all the time unless you press the botton. The other is normally open which would be good for your starter. You get fire when you press and it goes away after you release. Put a meter on the ones across from each other and test it to see if you have continuity with or without the button pressed and the will tell you which is which but there should be a NC or NO on them that tells you normally open or normally closed.
Also if you take battery positive to the red switch you can switch on battery and switch off battery. Jumper hot across the switches through the red one used for battery and all gets cut off when you switch off red one. Would not hurt to put fuses inline so you don't fry the cart of something goes wrong.
Should have used multiple colours for the wiring. If I could show you a picture of the wiring of my bolens 1053 I restored with a Citroen 2cv engine you’d be amazed. That wire looks quite thin also. I used 12 gauge wire generally all over and over short lengths with a few fuses throughout the wiring. This kept a low resistance and no heating in the wires... starter wires need to be thick chunky wires also. Like a 2 gauge
Get a Digital bicycle speedometer it should work... and that new tack should work you might have to get a three way Splitter hook up to tap into both negative wires on coil and the one on tack and make sure you have a good ground and it should work
For wire next time instead of using individual strands get some 14/6 trailer wire it comes with 6 sets of 14 gauge wire a whole lot neater looking. or if you need they also make 12/6 wire which is 12 gauge. the wire is in a protective sleeve and not very expensive by the foot.
There may be witchcraft and wizardry on a honda 750 engine, Idk. Ive only ever synced carbs on one. BUT, the coil grounds should not be tied together. That may be + instead.
The cable on the bike you were talking about works by a magnet one of the bolts on the disc brake are magnetic and it reads it by how fast and how many times it goes past the magnet on the cable
I may stand corrected. And correct me if I’m wrong. But the tach he tried using half way through the video that he says so of a briggs. It isn’t.... pretty sure it’s connected to a coil that runs in association with a points and condenser guys?????
Wont work with it tied to both coils. Wont fire right. Even though this is a 4 cyclinder its 2 double coils. Hook it to one coil negative and set it to 2 cylinder it will take the 2 pulses per rotation an half it to read correctly
You can go to your local hardware store and get a universal tachometer they're cheap they are made to set up for 4 cylinder 6 cylinder and 8 cylinder they're easy to adapt easy to hook up take you 15 minutes to hook it up and it will work great for that application and they're cheap I'm sure it's probably I don't know 22 $40 I'm sure they're not very much
Fyi, the speedometer from the bike will not work. It goes by revelutions of the tire, so if the tires are not the same size as the bike, it won't put the right speed
That sharp thin metal is going to feel great on the legs when you hit a bump
Bahahahah
True! xd
It's still probably one of the least dangerous thing about this build.
Its gonna feel good daddy😂
That true
Oh yea fo sho
This is how many people think Cars and Cameras should help Moto Migs
👇
H. Weaver I just put that lil
H. Weaver lol
car and cameras is so good
RBG
File the bottom of the dash, and cut those lower corners off (maybe add press-on auto edge trim). The dash will act like a big blade if you contact it with legs etc.
I'm pretty convinced that this build is either going to kill or seriously injure you at some point in the near future.
Kent Campbell how
@@TRIPPIE_OTX He doesn't have the knowledge required to take on a build like this. He proves that with every video. That thing is a death trap. There isn't much that is done correctly. The worst part is that he is constantly being told what a great job he is doing by people who clearly don't know what they are talking about.
@Lance Washington I'm all for learning a new skill but not at the expense of your life. He needs to have someone with who actually knows what he is doing to help him. He lacks the skills needed for this project.
@Lance Washington What is really scary is Vasily is actually a really good fabricator for his age. He could actually do a project like this. He made a simple mistake and shattered his leg. This guy is doomed.
@Lance Washington On the contrary, I would like to see him succeed with this build. That is why I've been hounding him to get help from someone with experience. Migs isn't stupid. He just needs guidance.
Who else been here since before 20k subs? Great job dude nearly 100k!
Haha he says half-scale nascart... but it sounds like half-skow nascart the way he says it
Bin since 80,000 but watch this guy everyday and love every vid
R7 kelley definitely. It’s rare to see kids nowadays tinkering with engines and using their imagination to build something! It’s all about Xbox’s and PlayStations now
Good job 👍 it’s funny how you made the push button/ start button
Man your gonna be going faster than Ricky Bobby in that thing! *shake and bake baby* lol keep up the awesome vids!👍🏼
Good job man. Anyone else wish they could build something like this
you should connected the fuel pump to the engine power so when the engine kill switch is in the ON position the fuel pump engages and will disengage when the switch is off.
You unplugged the (-) wire from the coil and connected the teach that was WRONG you HAVE to keep both coils plugged in and tap into the (-) wire with both still connected...
Ι cringed so much when i saw that😨😨😨 i had the same face
This guy gets it lol
“Didn’t weld the center just Incase I need to take it out”. Haha.
Coming along nicely man ! You should put better steering wheel on it tho. Would look sick with a nice black suede style race wheel or a saas ! 👌🤷♂️😎
The red switch should be a emergency engine shutdown just in case there’s a fire
It should be "every thing off"
Music Remixed yeah like a battery cut off just in case
Most briggs tachometer works with induction from the plug wire it just wraps around the wire
The wheel speed sensor type thing is easily removable and I’m sure you could find a way to make it read the speed of the front wheels. You might have to to a little gearing to compensate for the different axle diameters
They have speedometers on Amazon just look up quad speedometer and they just use a magnet on the break caliper it's hard to explain but it's really easy to use and they aren't super expensive
Can't wait for it to start ripping. Another great video dude
Almost to 100k!!
Cant wait to see this thing ripping around!!!!
Thats what i call combining alcoholic drinks with starting karts, in a safe way..
On the tach, are multiple extensions not an an option?
konijnenkop hij kan echt goed lassen🤣
@@shab036 t zit iig vast 😁
As for the speedo u might as well just fab up a little phone mount and track your speed by GPS 🤷🏼♂️ just an idea
See if the speedometer cable ends are the same as the tachometer cable cause it's longer. If there the same, is it long enough? Also can you possibly join them together? Or join it to the 40' you scene online?
Side note when welding keep the circular or c motion going as you move along and play with the welder feed settings to match your speed along the work piece.make sure your as comfortable as possible well welding. Sometimes body placement is the difference between a good and a bad weld
The rpm gauge needs to be hooked up to both the coils for it to work
I think I read on other tachs you're supposed to wrap one of the wires around the plug wires hope it helps 👍
The reason the tachometer your friend gave you didn't work on the CB750 is because a Briggs coil passes over a magnet which creates a charge and sends it to the spark plug and the tach. The faster the engine spins, the more electricity goes to the tachometer, giving it a higher rpm reading. So if you managed to use that flat bar on the valve cover to spin a little DC motor connected to a AC to DC rectifyer that sends electricity through the green wire on the tach, it should work just fine. Good luck man.
Is there wires from that cord for the tac? If so, cut the end off leaving yourself room to spice wire on. Get some wire to run between one end and splice both original ends on at each end. I don’t know if it’s just a cable or if it has actual wires going to each end but if it’s wires then you can extend it yourself reusing the original ends. Just throwing that out there. It may not even work like that. 🤷♂️
I would try using a speedometer cable for a Tack cable.
It's just a flexible cable that turns inside the gauge. And you should utilize all that wall space for tool hooks and a dry erase board to make a to do list.
Nice vid bro! U could buy some led light and put it under the naskart and hook it up to the dash!
If I were you I’d get a soldering iron and solder those push button wire extensions together. Butt connectors don’t hold very good if you put any sort of tension on them. I’d also get more then one colored wire. Having different colored wires makes diagnostics easier if anything were to break
u need to fold the panel so you dont cut ur legs up in an accedent
I agree bend the edges over on that thing
Maybe bend 1/4" lip at the bottom of that dash, so it isn't so sharp and it also gives some stiffnes to it. The lower end needs also some support, otherwise it will brake loose next to the weld seam. Maybe some round steel rods welded from the frame to the bottom of the dash, or extend the dash across whole cockpit?
I use to make speedo and tach cables all the time when I worked for Freightliner. Tractor dealer might have something.
Nice video
Just need + & - on the coil not the battery for rev counter.it will pnly work when engine is running😵
Wrong title it should be,, NASKART,, not,,NASCAR,, or is it just me?
It’s just you it says HALF SCALE nascar
@@quancast1141 ok
Get 2 40 inch taco extenders
Hey you should’ve just wrapped that mess of green wires in electrical tape and made it one wire
Boston showing love man keep up the good work hit the like button show the love .
And keep up the great work on the videos
Migs. Sporting the Boston tshirt 👍 from one of your Boston mass subscribers .
Hey men very nice work but we want to see y painting the frame and all the weels at the same colour ! It is going to look awesome
Use some apoxy to get the cork stuck in there
Now usually most people would make sure it runs perfect drives like new and just drive the hell out of it before doing all the finishing touches so there isn’t any wasted time if it were to flop.
Harbor freight and many other places sell black plastic loom tubing that you can tuck all of your wiring in, also it would’ve been easier to weld three tabs to that front bar then pop rivet the dash plate to those three tabs.
That thing you took off of the switch is contact block. You should have looks like 2 connections across from each other and one side is normally closed if you want fire running through all the time unless you press the botton. The other is normally open which would be good for your starter. You get fire when you press and it goes away after you release. Put a meter on the ones across from each other and test it to see if you have continuity with or without the button pressed and the will tell you which is which but there should be a NC or NO on them that tells you normally open or normally closed.
Also if you take battery positive to the red switch you can switch on battery and switch off battery. Jumper hot across the switches through the red one used for battery and all gets cut off when you switch off red one. Would not hurt to put fuses inline so you don't fry the cart of something goes wrong.
Great job 👏👏👏👏👏👏
U need to label the wires since u made them all green lol cool video
YOU can get it to work just make sure you have a good connection
Great job migs👍👍👍👍✅
Should have used multiple colours for the wiring. If I could show you a picture of the wiring of my bolens 1053 I restored with a Citroen 2cv engine you’d be amazed. That wire looks quite thin also. I used 12 gauge wire generally all over and over short lengths with a few fuses throughout the wiring. This kept a low resistance and no heating in the wires... starter wires need to be thick chunky wires also. Like a 2 gauge
Watch cars and cameras video on how the did the Spedo
Good work
Just get the 48 inch one and add a six or two sixes on to it
You should get a small fuel cell
Get a Digital bicycle speedometer it should work... and that new tack should work you might have to get a three way Splitter hook up to tap into both negative wires on coil and the one on tack and make sure you have a good ground and it should work
If you want to connect the new tachometer you have to connect the wire that reads the rpm to the spark generator wire instead of the coil!
Wassup been watching for years
You should put your clutch on a hand shifter like u got so u can turn your steer wheel all the way around
Loving the content man
I would have taken the key switch off and wired the ignition to one of the toggle switches. So you can have everything on the same panel
For wire next time instead of using individual strands get some 14/6 trailer wire it comes with 6 sets of 14 gauge wire a whole lot neater looking. or if you need they also make 12/6 wire which is 12 gauge. the wire is in a protective sleeve and not very expensive by the foot.
Work for the fire department I don’t have any fire extinguisher in the shed hmmm
Connect a couple extension for the tach cable together
You can use a Honda spree Or Honda Express speedometer cable
Sweet 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🤑
To the speedometer then buy at digits one that you can adjust to the size of the tire
There may be witchcraft and wizardry on a honda 750 engine, Idk. Ive only ever synced carbs on one. BUT, the coil grounds should not be tied together. That may be + instead.
Cut the ground wire for the coil in half and join it to the tacho so that the tacho is reading both coils
The cable on the bike you were talking about works by a magnet one of the bolts on the disc brake are magnetic and it reads it by how fast and how many times it goes past the magnet on the cable
Seriously migs reach out to John and ike
Speedo cable will work
You should put a better seat in it
Port the speedometer cable on the front wheel it will be more accurate and will be much shorter
I may stand corrected. And correct me if I’m wrong. But the tach he tried using half way through the video that he says so of a briggs. It isn’t.... pretty sure it’s connected to a coil that runs in association with a points and condenser guys?????
Try to do little c when you are weld over and over it looks alot better
You should put a trail tech vapor it has a tach and speedo and easy to Install
You have to join into both coils or it won’t read accurately
There should be a switch on the tach to choose 2, 4, 6, 8 cylinders.
Wont work with it tied to both coils. Wont fire right. Even though this is a 4 cyclinder its 2 double coils. Hook it to one coil negative and set it to 2 cylinder it will take the 2 pulses per rotation an half it to read correctly
You could have cut the old wires off the original starter and attach the connector given to make it easier
you probably shouldn't but it would be funny if you got like 10 extensions for the tachometer and made it work
My dads a firefighter (migs) what you gonna do for headlights and tailights itd be sick if you kinda made real lights into the body
You can use a skateboard wheel but you need it somewhere it can roll go look at cars and cameras they just ran into the same problem
look into trailtechs....they show rpm speed engine temp
Do a harbor freight review on tools you have from there and see if it was harbor great or harbor fate
Get more than one 6" extension link them together
You can go to your local hardware store and get a universal tachometer they're cheap they are made to set up for 4 cylinder 6 cylinder and 8 cylinder they're easy to adapt easy to hook up take you 15 minutes to hook it up and it will work great for that application and they're cheap I'm sure it's probably I don't know 22 $40 I'm sure they're not very much
How about you make it run first
even if you did get the speedometer to work the wheels on the NASCAR are smaller so it would be off by a lot
I could not be driving around with a brake/clutch lever on the steering wheel
Flaught Modz its the clutch and its not permanent he said he’ll be getting a pedal
Yesssir another BANGER😂😂😭
Make sure u have ur basics ground and power red should be your hot wire ground should be dead
First love the new nascar
Solder 2 rev count cables together boom
Lucky he didn’t melt damn switch’s come on dude
Your ears are the only tachometer that you need.
Ya you should put the battery in the front
Fyi, the speedometer from the bike will not work. It goes by revelutions of the tire, so if the tires are not the same size as the bike, it won't put the right speed
It looks like your whole engine is crooked and that would make the chain have problems
Wrap the wires up with black tape jack
Wire brush your welds it will clean them up
That electronic tachometer should work. You just need to figure out the wiring. I can't tell you how to wire it since i don't know what tach is this.
The Speedometer is not electric its mechanical. There are gears in the front Wheeling That spinns the wire insuge the Cabel. Same thing with the tach