Maybe. 3 volts is on the high side for being switched on - 4 or 5 and it would not fire at all. Could be the module or just bad connections - I'm betting this engine is not too happy and is misbehaving. Check all connections and return path Jay: things that are half broken [wires, switches, solder joints] or really loose can test ok with a meter, but voltage drops are not right under normal current load. If that all looks good, you probably have a bad module. Yeah, it could be internal to the coil, but odds are against that - opticouplers tend to last longer when they feed a higher impedance [like switching another transistor that will control current pulling in a relay] than if their output just gets slammed to return for an extended period of time. Look at that rotor on the distributor and note that light gets blocked probably 95% of the time, which is the comparative resting state for that circuit - its never on for more than a few milliseconds at a time with the engine running. But... turn ignition on trying to sort out something else and forget to disconnect the distributor, you may have been unlucky enough to have the rotor slot land in front of the opticoupler and its cooked. Put in a ballast resistor on the (+) side of the coil - it will limit current some and help the module last longer. Something in the 0.8 to 1.6 ohm range seems typical - Accel's #150250 perhaps? But brand doesn't really matter. Do you lose coil output with a resistor? Just a tiny bit - but beats the pants of a system that won't spark at all. It's not like we have sponsors that can throw parts at us every month.
WHY CAN NOT WE FLAG THIS USELESS ATTEMPT AT WASTING OUR TIME?????????????
Take this off youtube
one of the worst vids on TH-cam (what is the (conclusion) is the module good or bad?
Maybe. 3 volts is on the high side for being switched on - 4 or 5 and it would not fire at all. Could be the module or just bad connections - I'm betting this engine is not too happy and is misbehaving.
Check all connections and return path Jay: things that are half broken [wires, switches, solder joints] or really loose can test ok with a meter, but voltage drops are not right under normal current load. If that all looks good, you probably have a bad module. Yeah, it could be internal to the coil, but odds are against that - opticouplers tend to last longer when they feed a higher impedance [like switching another transistor that will control current pulling in a relay] than if their output just gets slammed to return for an extended period of time. Look at that rotor on the distributor and note that light gets blocked probably 95% of the time, which is the comparative resting state for that circuit - its never on for more than a few milliseconds at a time with the engine running. But... turn ignition on trying to sort out something else and forget to disconnect the distributor, you may have been unlucky enough to have the rotor slot land in front of the opticoupler and its cooked. Put in a ballast resistor on the (+) side of the coil - it will limit current some and help the module last longer. Something in the 0.8 to 1.6 ohm range seems typical - Accel's #150250 perhaps? But brand doesn't really matter. Do you lose coil output with a resistor? Just a tiny bit - but beats the pants of a system that won't spark at all. It's not like we have sponsors that can throw parts at us every month.
The module is good.
That was very useless