Excellent video, I have been doing transfers of 7 colors for approximately 6 years and I also did tests with puff ink and they came out well, but my method is a little more rudimentary because here in Mexico there are few places where I can get special inks for transfer like this I only use plastisol inks for my shirt prints and transfers, thank you for showing us your work.
This video is great thank you. We are just getting started, I haven't even got my first machine set up, but this seems to make the most sense for starting a brand for multiple reasons, even though this seems more complex than printing to shirts. This video helps
Thank you! We have many videos so please check them out as needed and let us know if you have any questions! We offer free 1-on-1 guidance consultations too!
Oke 1. Awesome design!!! 2. What is gel? Like this is the first time hearing this term. 3. Thanks! This such an awesome video. Getting my 6x4 RH and conveyer next week imma try this out!
Gel cure is under curing your ink. So if it cures at 160C / 320F whatever it is, it needs to be 20-30% lower, touch dry like you would during flash. It’s literally so the inks don’t fall off after it’s pressed and washed. It lets them cure into the T-shirt properly.
Hey, happy Monday! Super exciting about your new equipment! Can't wait to see what you are going to do with it. @Jonny Clarke is correct. All inks have a gel temp, which is the temp where is starts to change under heat and kicks off the curing process. Imagine the ink being dry to the touch, but not fully cured. That ink is "gelled" Happy printing!
PET film absorbs very little moisture and is VERY stable overall. However, depending on how old it is and where/how it is stored you may want to hedge your bets and pre-shrink it. As for squeegee, use the same durometer you would normally use on press for flat colors, and go up to a 70/90/70 - maybe an 80 duro -for detail printing. The paper creates a very smooth and hard surface, so controlling pressure and edge sharpness of the squeegee is very important.
Transfers can be great in several situations! They can be convenient for a clothing brand if you plan to keep several transfers on hand and just press them on your apparel when that particular image is ordered. You can even print several small images on one sheet. I hope that helps, keep us posted!
Hi @Dagmar Hernández . You'll notice that at 7:11 he starts into the print process/print order. At the end of that he'll discuss a "base" or an overprint. That's the print that will get the powder adhesive. th-cam.com/video/tKZiUiAD2V8/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps!
Really excellent vedio. i have one question, what about using plastisol inks on heat transfer PET film as i'm facing trouble with registration because of the PET shrinkage
If your PET film is shrinking - I recommend keeping it in a dry area and you may want to run it through your dryer before printing to release any moisture it could be holding. With that said - PET film will hold far less moisture than paper and is much more stable overall. You could need a slightly heavier PET film that has greater dimensional stability.
Hi @Rian Wardana! the durability will be less than a standard print that has been screen printed direct to the tee/garment, but not by much. Like anything there's of course a bunch of variables. I've had hats w/ transfers that the transfer lasted longer than the hat. i've had tees with a transfer and a direct print and the direct print lasted longer than the transfer for sure. Hope that helps!
I've been DTF printing for awhile now and although the option is nice, I haven't found the perfect feel for it. It still feels like vinyl a bit. How does the screen print transfers feel? It had a shiny look in one of the shots which makes me ask. Thanks!
HI! DTF does feel kinda like a vinyl sticker. A plastisol transfer will be very flat and smooth like DTF (there is a way to get it to have texture/not too shiny with parchment paper during application though). But will not be stiff like DTF.
Great vid, thanks so much for this! I have a question...if you're running each color pass through the dryer to get a gel cure, by the time you get to that final color won't the first few colors be fully cured because it would have gone through the dryer 5-7 times?
Hi Erika! Great question. You are right. the 1st layers down are going to be going through the conveyor at that gel temp a few times on a design like this, and are probably pretty close to fully cured if not fully cured. However, the layer that is actually going to be adhered to the garment when we heat press will only be gelled because they will be the most recently printed and only through the conveyor on the last pass. So, all good. Hope that helps. Happy printing!
Hey Erika! I wanted to revise something i said in my previous response. In theory, if the ink on my transfer is only ever hitting gel temp, then... i guess it would never cure no matter how many times i sent it down. So... i retract my statement. HA! Sorry, Erika.
Ink cures at 260 but you heat pressed it at 350 why? Is it the adhesive that needs the extra heat? How are transfer companies able to make screen printed transfers that press at lower temperatures?
Hi @Steve Madrigal ! That's a great question. I believe it has to do w/ re-gelling the ink and bonding the adhesive, but does it HAVE to be the hot, not sure. I remember doing many transfers at a lower temp, so i believe there may be some play in that number. I'll rap with Colin (the guy in the video) and message you next week after the holiday. Happy printing!
@@bigmamabren3360 If heat pressing at sub 300° temps, you need specific paper that will release at those lower temps as well as adhesive powder that remelts/grips the fabric and ink at those lower temps. The paper and powder in the video can be used for both low cure and standard cure inks - but transfer at standard cure temps.
Greetings from Ecuador, excellent video. I need to contact you, some web address. I URGE information about "cmyk or simulated process heat transfers", only "multicolor printing" but "spots color" is shown.
Hi @Kristen Richmond. Good question. I do think that it can effect them, while i can't say definitively. I live in Oregon and i've always been in the habit of keeping in the in sealable bags just to prevent too much moisture and humidity.
Good morning, @Tucson Airbrush ! In my experience a vacuum platen works well for posters, transfers, etc... no need for adhesive at all. no risk of tearing or warping the paper what so ever. I've certainly done quite a few transfers with out one, but i would prefer to do it with a vac pallet. You gotta do what fits you and your shop best tho! Screen printing is never a one size fits all.
Hi @Sonya Cantu! Great question. I'm not super familiar with Supacolor (though they have a pretty dope site). I believe they are doing either direct to film or digital transfers of some type. Not screen printed. they may do screen printed as well. This technique is called screen printed plastisol transfers. Hope that helps.
The size of the project is not something you would necessarily do in a smaller shop. Typically you will be doing transfers with lower color counts and sending the bigger color count jobs out to a business that specializes in it. But we wanted to show you that it can 100% be done in house and that you should not be intimidated by the process!
Someone orders 240 6 colour prints a year, but orders 20 per month. Set up 6 colours every month or set it up once and run off 240 transfers….. Saves time and time = money.
@suls Oner Totally understand where you are coming from. Imagine taking a couple hundred printed tees to an event (fair, show, etc...) and only selling 150 of them. Sucky. now imagine taking 200 transfers and blank tees. and selling only 150 of them. Much less sucky (still sucky, but....) OR what if you had a return screen print customer that was a great customer, but needed smaller quantities fulfilled. These are on the shelf and ready to go when that customer returns for those smaller quantities, with out having to set up on press every time. Happy printing, Suls!
Excellent video, I have been doing transfers of 7 colors for approximately 6 years and I also did tests with puff ink and they came out well, but my method is a little more rudimentary because here in Mexico there are few places where I can get special inks for transfer like this I only use plastisol inks for my shirt prints and transfers, thank you for showing us your work.
Patience must be your friend on a project like this. Great talking points. Very well explained. Good stuff.
This video is great thank you. We are just getting started, I haven't even got my first machine set up, but this seems to make the most sense for starting a brand for multiple reasons, even though this seems more complex than printing to shirts. This video helps
Nice video
Thank you! We have many videos so please check them out as needed and let us know if you have any questions! We offer free 1-on-1 guidance consultations too!
Amazing impressive work 👍
Wow.... I need 500 of those by tomorrow! Excellent job!
Nice, hope it goes smoothly!
I guess the raster multi color plastisol heat transfer would demand more accuracy and precision than block images.
Oke 1. Awesome design!!! 2. What is gel? Like this is the first time hearing this term. 3. Thanks! This such an awesome video. Getting my 6x4 RH and conveyer next week imma try this out!
Gel cure is under curing your ink.
So if it cures at 160C / 320F whatever it is, it needs to be 20-30% lower, touch dry like you would during flash.
It’s literally so the inks don’t fall off after it’s pressed and washed. It lets them cure into the T-shirt properly.
Hey, happy Monday! Super exciting about your new equipment! Can't wait to see what you are going to do with it. @Jonny Clarke is correct. All inks have a gel temp, which is the temp where is starts to change under heat and kicks off the curing process. Imagine the ink being dry to the touch, but not fully cured. That ink is "gelled"
Happy printing!
Colin, please what squeegee durometer would you recommend? We are using PET films would you recommend preshrinking for this substrate? Thanks you.
PET film absorbs very little moisture and is VERY stable overall. However, depending on how old it is and where/how it is stored you may want to hedge your bets and pre-shrink it.
As for squeegee, use the same durometer you would normally use on press for flat colors, and go up to a 70/90/70 - maybe an 80 duro -for detail printing. The paper creates a very smooth and hard surface, so controlling pressure and edge sharpness of the squeegee is very important.
What "Clear" underbase did you use? Did you use for this awesome project? Need it asap!
Hi Jeff. Its a clear ink that is not yet in our line up of products. Any clear ink will work for this step though.
@@Ryonetcan you use tht Clear and not white if the transfer is going on a dark shirt?
So, with this be a good idea for my clothing brand or just to sell? For small one time use
Transfers can be great in several situations! They can be convenient for a clothing brand if you plan to keep several transfers on hand and just press them on your apparel when that particular image is ordered. You can even print several small images on one sheet. I hope that helps, keep us posted!
I have a Question that I have to powder every color or just the last color that I print ?
Hi @Dagmar Hernández . You'll notice that at 7:11 he starts into the print process/print order. At the end of that he'll discuss a "base" or an overprint. That's the print that will get the powder adhesive. th-cam.com/video/tKZiUiAD2V8/w-d-xo.html
Hope that helps!
Really excellent vedio. i have one question, what about using plastisol inks on heat transfer PET film as i'm facing trouble with registration because of the PET shrinkage
If your PET film is shrinking - I recommend keeping it in a dry area and you may want to run it through your dryer before printing to release any moisture it could be holding.
With that said - PET film will hold far less moisture than paper and is much more stable overall.
You could need a slightly heavier PET film that has greater dimensional stability.
is it durable? how is the durability of plastisol heat transfer on tee shirt?
Hi @Rian Wardana! the durability will be less than a standard print that has been screen printed direct to the tee/garment, but not by much. Like anything there's of course a bunch of variables. I've had hats w/ transfers that the transfer lasted longer than the hat. i've had tees with a transfer and a direct print and the direct print lasted longer than the transfer for sure. Hope that helps!
I've been DTF printing for awhile now and although the option is nice, I haven't found the perfect feel for it. It still feels like vinyl a bit. How does the screen print transfers feel? It had a shiny look in one of the shots which makes me ask.
Thanks!
HI! DTF does feel kinda like a vinyl sticker. A plastisol transfer will be very flat and smooth like DTF (there is a way to get it to have texture/not too shiny with parchment paper during application though). But will not be stiff like DTF.
Great vid, thanks so much for this! I have a question...if you're running each color pass through the dryer to get a gel cure, by the time you get to that final color won't the first few colors be fully cured because it would have gone through the dryer 5-7 times?
Hi Erika! Great question. You are right. the 1st layers down are going to be going through the conveyor at that gel temp a few times on a design like this, and are probably pretty close to fully cured if not fully cured. However, the layer that is actually going to be adhered to the garment when we heat press will only be gelled because they will be the most recently printed and only through the conveyor on the last pass. So, all good. Hope that helps. Happy printing!
Hey Erika! I wanted to revise something i said in my previous response. In theory, if the ink on my transfer is only ever hitting gel temp, then... i guess it would never cure no matter how many times i sent it down. So... i retract my statement. HA! Sorry, Erika.
Ink cures at 260 but you heat pressed it at 350 why? Is it the adhesive that needs the extra heat? How are transfer companies able to make screen printed transfers that press at lower temperatures?
Hi @Steve Madrigal ! That's a great question. I believe it has to do w/ re-gelling the ink and bonding the adhesive, but does it HAVE to be the hot, not sure. I remember doing many transfers at a lower temp, so i believe there may be some play in that number. I'll rap with Colin (the guy in the video) and message you next week after the holiday. Happy printing!
@@Ryonet and the answer to this question was??? Please share for the rest of the class.
@@bigmamabren3360 If heat pressing at sub 300° temps, you need specific paper that will release at those lower temps as well as adhesive powder that remelts/grips the fabric and ink at those lower temps.
The paper and powder in the video can be used for both low cure and standard cure inks - but transfer at standard cure temps.
@@Ryonet ok, that makes sense. Using FN Ink, so I'm just a little nervous.
Greetings from Ecuador, excellent video. I need to contact you, some web address. I URGE information about "cmyk or simulated process heat transfers", only "multicolor printing" but "spots color" is shown.
Check out our site under the LEARN dropdown menu for info!
I have a question. If you store your transfers in a humid place, will the moisture in the paper ruin them?
Hi @Kristen Richmond. Good question. I do think that it can effect them, while i can't say definitively. I live in Oregon and i've always been in the habit of keeping in the in sealable bags just to prevent too much moisture and humidity.
Why is a vacuum platen needed? I have printed hundreds of stunning multicolor images on paper with precise registration using spray adhesive.
Good morning, @Tucson Airbrush ! In my experience a vacuum platen works well for posters, transfers, etc... no need for adhesive at all. no risk of tearing or warping the paper what so ever. I've certainly done quite a few transfers with out one, but i would prefer to do it with a vac pallet. You gotta do what fits you and your shop best tho! Screen printing is never a one size fits all.
Is this considered supacolor transfers is this the method that’s done
Hi @Sonya Cantu! Great question. I'm not super familiar with Supacolor (though they have a pretty dope site). I believe they are doing either direct to film or digital transfers of some type. Not screen printed. they may do screen printed as well. This technique is called screen printed plastisol transfers. Hope that helps.
Focusing on simpler multiple color designs I imagine easier to hide being off register, while you are learning and less waste
This seems like something that you would do on a very slow day so that you could file away some designs that people order here and there consistently
The size of the project is not something you would necessarily do in a smaller shop. Typically you will be doing transfers with lower color counts and sending the bigger color count jobs out to a business that specializes in it. But we wanted to show you that it can 100% be done in house and that you should not be intimidated by the process!
That’s dope but just a waste of time lol.. you can just print on the tshirt lol
Someone orders 240 6 colour prints a year, but orders 20 per month. Set up 6 colours every month or set it up once and run off 240 transfers…..
Saves time and time = money.
@suls Oner Totally understand where you are coming from. Imagine taking a couple hundred printed tees to an event (fair, show, etc...) and only selling 150 of them. Sucky. now imagine taking 200 transfers and blank tees. and selling only 150 of them. Much less sucky (still sucky, but....) OR what if you had a return screen print customer that was a great customer, but needed smaller quantities fulfilled. These are on the shelf and ready to go when that customer returns for those smaller quantities, with out having to set up on press every time. Happy printing, Suls!