I know i am a little late on this but to anyone else I definitely recommend smearing a nice heavy, compatible grease between non moving mating surfaces when you are putting it back together. like the ways and the head stock. it keeps any moisture from finding its way between them and causing problems because they are not exactly areas that get regular cleaning and lubrication. I also do the same with my vise on the mill because of how rarely i move it. Probably a good idea for any bare metal mating surface to be honest, saves a lot of work for the next person that takes that machine apart long after you are gone, that guy will be like "wow that guy was the best!"
@@adamjankowski7679 I use the canned aerosol cosmoline on most of my stuff that's exposed . I just like a thicker gease under fixed parts because it will prevent anything from seeping underneath them, dont use a ton just a finger smear and then slide it back and forth A bit to get it seated properly
This has got to be one of the most ambitious and impressive rebuilds on youtube. Hammered was a great choice. Nice to see a team working on one of these. Never listen to the haters when you're the one getting it done and great work guys.
A bar in a three jaw chuck is not a good reference to measure runout. Better take off the chuck and measure the inner taper runout on two different depths.
Well said. I could put another chuck on that spindle and be 10 out. So what we re level the bed????? Now I am 050 out because I have a messed up chuck. Always check the spindle.
In all seriousness, there's no reason to rescrape a machine until you make something with it and can evaluate its ability to make good parts. Lathes especially can be quite badly worn and still make very good parts.
Thanks Wes, I think this is a really good point. we did have a chance to adjust the apron and take some measurements before it came apart. Although we weren't able to make any chips, it was pretty clear the action on the apron was never going to be smooth enough for our satisfaction. It probably would have made good parts, but it would bug me every time I turned the handle.
...Guys I'm pretty (very) late to the party with your series and this lathe rebuild and not even being from an engineering background, but I have just binged on the lathe teardown/clean/paint/rebuild and I have fkn loved every minute of it 😁👌...Great viewing
Really great, great work....I love people who are meticulous and fussy with their work. Why do it half ass when you know you will never be happy. Keep up the good work
That's a good idea scraping the ways me and Grandpa used to do that get some good way scrapers to put on there when you're all done keep your ways in good shape
Hi guys i have just bought a Colchester Bantam exactly like the one you brought back from the dead and did this world a great service in doing so. This is probably the best lathe of its kind ever built and will look after you for many years to come, your videos on the rebuild are relay awesome.I have learned a huge amount about my lathe without haveing to take anything apart.I noticed that you had a parts manual that you were using in the reassembly part of the series,could you maybe help me on where I could get one printed or soft copy as I am also going to restore my Cochester even though it is not nearly as bad as yours was. Once again thank you for this awesome restore where others would have just melted her down and turned this treasure into something stupid you guys did a fantastic job on this.
I've enjoyed the hell out of this series! All the naysayers can f*%k off, you guys are doing a great job and this is how many of the best I know gained a lot of knowledge. We start with toasters and alarm clocks as kids and grow into lathes and computers as we mature. Good Luck!
Great series, fantastic job. And as long as you guys know how to scrape, knock yourselves out the lathe can only get as good as you want it. But...in that same respect, if done wrong, you'd be chasing your tails only to get it to a satisfactory standard due to this exhaustive, tedious process. Either way it's something you have to live with. But most important, better experience is gain in doing it. I've not failed yet, in my 20+ years of machining. And it all began with an oversized file, for me. So, have fun and EXCELSIOR!
I have to admit, I am nervous for you guys, not that I don't have faith in you guys, just my flashbacks harkening back to my halcyon days of ferromancing. LOL. Believe me, any mistakes is as an important tool as any in your tool box, literally, and allegorically, but like a bomb defuser at a fireworks display, I seriously can't wait to see THAT video. in all seriousness, you'll all do good.
Great work guys, I've been seriously enjoying this series. It's been noted earlier in the comments, but shear pins have an important purpose. The drill bit deal scared me a bit. Tension pin would have been a better option and they are readily available....and cheap.
The reason I left J&L was scraping in the those turret headstocks. a 10' straight shaft with bearing surfaces on it was chucked into the machine and checked with a dial indicator for run-out Very tight tolerance that caused me a lot of grief.
Stoning them will do nothing except make it worse. Scripting isn't very hard. Keith Rucker and John Saunders have hosted scraping classes, which Abom79 also attended. With just a day of instruction, they were all doing scraping that was getting them into the sub "tenths" (tenths of a thousandth) to 10 millionths range. It is not very difficult, but your results are only as good as your reference plate is flat, otherwise you'll have problems with the bluing. These guys are very technically/mechanically able, so they will be able to do it. Though they should practice on some stuff before going to work on the ways. Being proficient and consistent are what take years, but they will be able to get it very flat. Provided they have some knowledge of technique and practice, have a flat reference surface, and do some practice.
belo trabalho o de voces...! so quem é da profição sabe o prazer que é de restaurar uma maquina assim! estão de parabens pelo o que fazem e compartilhão
If you want the chuck dead center open the Chuck and put piece of DOM in the back fare enough that you can bore the .0005 off the jaws. I did that to a factory 10 foot engine lathe with a 16 inch chuck and it Was dead on.
yep drill bit shear pin was a bad idea, drills are usually HSS or some type of A1 tool steel (drill rod). It's not going to shear properly and will likely cause another part to fail as a result.
The whole point of a shear pin is for it to break, a drill bit is hard so it is less likely to break. You should use brass or copper or something like that
Momci svaka vam čast na trudu....ali generalno jedne takve mašine podrazumeva i obradu kliznih površina i takodje je veoma bitna geometrija mašine kao i uglovi njeni...to treba proveravati mernim satom....super ste momci
Hi There, Great work! really inspired by the dedication, About that Brass alloy plate with company logo and other tech details. looks like you can actually improve the surface finish and get a nice Shine on it just by buffing it with calcium powder or lime stone powder. hope that will work out well! cheers
Hey Guys and Gal, I see that you edited out all the sware words. You may wish to spray a clear enamel on the hand wheels where you polished them up. Will prevent rust in the future. Have enjoyed the series. I have all this to go through for a Nebel Lathe I am restoring.
Get a digital level. You can still only get so close with the bubble level and you are still off. Just like a carburetor on a car it’s the perfect way to measure air and fuel exactly the wrong way at all RPMs. Close only counts in horseshoes and hand grenades. If you want it right do it right.
I want to find one of these GEMS soon after i build my garage... plqnning to build a 24x32 garage with 2 doors, and a side overhead for the tractor, and lawn tools. with the main doors on the short side. have 200AMP service to the house, so should be able to run a 100AMP service box and line to the garage for 220/240..
I think you're going to want a bit more clearance on those gears where you made a new shear pin. That is you will need to put them further apart. Gear mesh is kind of counter intuitive; you'd think you want maximum contact and have them as close together as possible, the reality is that will cause excessive wear. There should be a spec for tooth clearance or separation. From the video they look too tight.
Correct, you need to loosen that up bro. Also, please please please get a paintbrush, dip it in some oil, and paint over every bit of exposed steel on that machine. Follow it up with a rag to get rid of the excess.
It's called backlash, and if you don't have it you'll be crying one day in the future. If you don't know, don't fiddle with it. Or just ask a real engineer.
quickknowledge The chuck mounts on a backplate. They loosened the screws that hold the chuck onto the backplate, indicated it to find the area where the max TIR (total indicated runout) was, and tapped it in with a soft blow hammer.
You probably heard or seen this a million times, but I'll say it anyway. Check out Vintage Machinery. Keith Rucker is a genius and probably done all the things your doing a hundred times over. Looks great and don't worry about the haters👍🏻 they probably never seen a lathe in real life.
That shear pin is designed to break off if you have any foreign matter that gets in those gears you would rather have that shear pin break off then your break off one of those teeth or a row of those teeth on those gears also do not use hardened steel use brass or aluminum for a shear pin
I am confused at the centering attempt at 5 minutes in. If you center by using the router chucked in the jaws, I can't see how it will work as a 3-jaw chuck has got too much slop to truly center a part in the lathe. Even if you dialed it in now, the next time it'll be gone and it's not sure the chuck is truly centered either in relation to the spindle, because 3-jaws do not clamp even truly round objects properly centered. Trying to do it like this seems like chasing your own tail, I am no expert on this but it seems more logical to try and use the inner and outer surfaces of the chuck for reference to get it centered in the spindle. Then see what the jaws say.
Yeah, they are hardened, but as long as you have a scraper that's harder then the ways it will still scrape. We will be using carbide. At least that's what I found in my research. it may take longer of course then none hardened ways.
It is. You can't (or don't) scrape hardened ways. I'm not sure his are hardened, but most Bantams that I've seen are, if they are he won't be able to scrape them no matter how much he wants to. If he's dead set on scraping something he could do the apron and gibs, but he very likely to do more harm than good unless he spends a couple months of studying and practicing on scrap cast pieces. Also if they are more than a couple thou out he will need to mill them to within that before he starts scraping unless he wants to scrap for a solid year of evenings/weekends or so and I don't see a milling machine anywhere around there....or a large surface plate....or a precision straight edge/prismatic straight edge ....or a carbide grinder... and so and so forth...and none of that stuff is even remotely cheap. For him to say "there's nothing anyone can say to make me change my mind" he's either done most of that and got the rest planned out OR he's totally ignorant on what goes into scraping a machine like that and will be eating those words after he destroys his ways and figures out to have them properly ground it will cost 5-10 times what that machine is worth even after the restoration. Regardless I wish him the best of luck, it does look pretty good so far.
+Physics Anonymous Have you physically tried to scrape a Hardened material by hand? Cast iron is hard enough to scrape let alone something hardened. I'm not saying it can't be done, while in theory carbide would/could scrape a hardened cast or steel it would take you a very very long time to do it with a Biax or other ($2000) power scraper and a LIFETIME to do it by hand and a couple generations if it's out more than a couple thou. You've probably already proved a lot of people wrong with this project so far, don't go and mess your record up now.=)
Thanks Steve, I really do appreciate your comments. chances are pretty high I will eat my words. I have no problem doing that. we do have a large surface plate, and some large precision granite parallels we will be using. indecently we do have a CNC mill that we built. its been hiding in the background for a long time, though we wont be using that for this effort. But a small point of confusion in what you are saying. you say the ways are much to hard to scrape, but you also say we will destroy them. Seems to me the worst we can do is barely effect them. we will be taking it slow (as if we had a choice) and checking our progress regularly. my bets on you and future me being right, and we wont make it very far, but that's not going to stop us from trying.
I shouldn't have said destroy as that would imply that they'd be junk. I don't believe you are are to junk anything and I have no doubt with the work ethic you've displayed that you can do whatever you set your mind to and trust me I know you will be taking it slow =). I am by no means an expert on scraping or machining, but I have read a lot on it and done some myself, but I've talked to many guys that are about this subject because I was thinking about doing it myself on my Leblond and by far the consensus was not to try and scrap the hardened ways. I also had a very hard time finding someone that had successfully completed this task. In the end I obviously decided not to and just do the cast surfaces that ran on the hardened ways as these surfaces are obviously are meant to wear before the ways because they are softer and in the end I have a machine that can make parts way beyond the tolerances I work in and frankly am capable of producing on a regular basis. If nothing else I would encourage you to start with the apron and cast surfaces first and at least see how tight you can get the machine before messing with the hardened ways, if nothing else to have a better understanding of what it takes and who knows maybe you will be happy with it w/o doing the hard ways or maybe you won't, but at least you'll know. Also if the surfaces are very bad you might think about use Turcite or something like it to build them back up, but you will have to mill first and honestly if there's any appreciable wear you will need to do that anyway to avoid trying to scrap out 10 or 20 thou because if your planning to scrap out that much by hand you are for sure setting yourself for failure. Your surface should be within at least 5 thou before you think about scraping. I'm guessing you've already watched all the vids on YT about scraping but if not, Keith at Vintage Machinery recently did a video on his lathe regarding this very subject you should check it out. All the best and good luck.
Concern lovely job, but the sheer pin needs to be and not a drill bit. The function of a sheer pin is to protect all the running gear. Now your not, your running on luck! Cheers
+joseph crowley good eye, these gear sets actually sit in oil, like a car transmission. I just have to remember to fill it with oil before I run it the first time
i would want to examine the ways carefully with a long straight edge. when you bolted the lathe to the chip table and base i wonder if that distorted the ways.. the base could be far more rigid than the lathe. loosen the lower mounting bolts and see if it springs back.. some companies use to sell a dial indicator bracket that could slide along the top of a straight edge to let you see what the surface below was doing. if you are going to scrape the ways. better take it all apart again.. you may also want to check out this weeks video on flat stones. th-cam.com/video/DVLXsq7pi9Y/w-d-xo.html
The Colchester Lathe is just a thing of beauty, to look at and a dream to operate.
A shear pin is designed to fail before you damage something expensive, use brass or even aluminum nnot harened steel.
That piece of drillbit is probably going to brake like glass under any sudden impact, it would probably brake better than brass honestly
Mild steel
Ideally, use the material that was originally specified...
I know i am a little late on this but to anyone else I definitely recommend smearing a nice heavy, compatible grease between non moving mating surfaces when you are putting it back together. like the ways and the head stock. it keeps any moisture from finding its way between them and causing problems because they are not exactly areas that get regular cleaning and lubrication. I also do the same with my vise on the mill because of how rarely i move it.
Probably a good idea for any bare metal mating surface to be honest, saves a lot of work for the next person that takes that machine apart long after you are gone, that guy will be like "wow that guy was the best!"
I use rp342 and put it together before the solvents flash off. You will never have rust and less settling than greasegrease
@@adamjankowski7679 I use the canned aerosol cosmoline on most of my stuff that's exposed . I just like a thicker gease under fixed parts because it will prevent anything from seeping underneath them, dont use a ton just a finger smear and then slide it back and forth A bit to get it seated properly
This has got to be one of the most ambitious and impressive rebuilds on youtube. Hammered was a great choice. Nice to see a team working on one of these. Never listen to the haters when you're the one getting it done and great work guys.
I love how well the gears mesh on the Colchester lathe, and they run quiet quiet and smooth.
Seriously one of the best TH-cam series I've seen. Thoroughly enjoyed watching!
"Make the Noise !"... Amazing, beautiful work gentlemen, feel proud !
+StepCorn Grumbleteats my brother says that all the time when leveling things! Go project binky.
StepCorn Grumbleteats man, it's not just me that says that every time i see a level... waiting for the next Binky update
Like the vids. Great little skit at the end. Really summed up the obsessed feeling you get while refurbishing a tool and start feeling a bond with it.
A bar in a three jaw chuck is not a good reference to measure runout. Better take off the chuck and measure the inner taper runout on two different depths.
Absolutely. The two different depths is very important here! Need two concentric circles not just one.
Exactly a three jaw chuck with hardened chucks never and i mean never runs zero, and you cannot take a runout on that....never!!
Well said. I could put another chuck on that spindle and be 10 out. So what we re level the bed????? Now I am 050 out because I have a messed up chuck. Always check the spindle.
this video series is such a great journey to watch......!!
In all seriousness, there's no reason to rescrape a machine until you make something with it and can evaluate its ability to make good parts. Lathes especially can be quite badly worn and still make very good parts.
Thanks Wes, I think this is a really good point. we did have a chance to adjust the apron and take some measurements before it came apart. Although we weren't able to make any chips, it was pretty clear the action on the apron was never going to be smooth enough for our satisfaction. It probably would have made good parts, but it would bug me every time I turned the handle.
Did you use a good slideway oil ?
This makes much of a difference.
yeah because in Germany/Austria we usually aim for 1- 0.5 hundredth of a millimeter, which are about 0.4 to 0.2 Thou
In all honesty, I aim for whatever is within my tolerances and GDNT. As long as the part is fit to sell, it's a good part.
...Guys I'm pretty (very) late to the party with your series and this lathe rebuild and not even being from an engineering background, but I have just binged on the lathe teardown/clean/paint/rebuild and I have fkn loved every minute of it 😁👌...Great viewing
Really great, great work....I love people who are meticulous and fussy with their work. Why do it half ass when you know you will never be happy. Keep up the good work
That's a good idea scraping the ways me and Grandpa used to do that get some good way scrapers to put on there when you're all done keep your ways in good shape
If you want accuracy get a 4 jaw chuck and use a dial indicator to set your workpiece. Never trust a 3 jaw they are not repeatable accuracy.
Hi guys i have just bought a Colchester Bantam exactly like the one you brought back from the dead and did this world a great service in doing so. This is probably the best lathe of its kind ever built and will look after you for many years to come, your videos on the rebuild are relay awesome.I have learned a huge amount about my lathe without haveing to take anything apart.I noticed that you had a parts manual that you were using in the reassembly part of the series,could you maybe help me on where I could get one printed or soft copy as I am also going to restore my Cochester even though it is not nearly as bad as yours was. Once again thank you for this awesome restore where others would have just melted her down and turned this treasure into something stupid you guys did a fantastic job on this.
Wiets, PM me, I will send you a hard copy if you want. Here is the soft copy as well:
drive.google.com/open?id=1wuU4BVSiTttArd5EHhh9shTDsNjfz56q
I've enjoyed the hell out of this series! All the naysayers can f*%k off, you guys are doing a great job and this is how many of the best I know gained a lot of knowledge. We start with toasters and alarm clocks as kids and grow into lathes and computers as we mature.
Good Luck!
gifrific.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Step-Brothers-Did-we-just-become-best-friends.gif
Dan Ingwersen do
Hell yeah bro! It's all boats and ho's from here ;)
Don't forget that shear pins are supposed to shear to protect more expensive stuff. Consider a head crash or other jam that stops it dead.
You guys did a hell of a job.
My anxiety level reduces with every part that gets put back on.
Seeing that towel in the gear box lol. Would really stink if it got left in. Y'all are great GJ
this channel is so cool! Keep up the good work guys
Great series, fantastic job. And as long as you guys know how to scrape, knock yourselves out the lathe can only get as good as you want it. But...in that same respect, if done wrong, you'd be chasing your tails only to get it to a satisfactory standard due to this exhaustive, tedious process. Either way it's something you have to live with. But most important, better experience is gain in doing it. I've not failed yet, in my 20+ years of machining. And it all began with an oversized file, for me. So, have fun and EXCELSIOR!
eddie Towers can I just say this is my favorite comment so far? Especially the part about getting experience by doing it, even if it doesn't work out!
I have to admit, I am nervous for you guys, not that I don't have faith in you guys, just my flashbacks harkening back to my halcyon days of ferromancing. LOL. Believe me, any mistakes is as an important tool as any in your tool box, literally, and allegorically, but like a bomb defuser at a fireworks display, I seriously can't wait to see THAT video. in all seriousness, you'll all do good.
You just traded a shear pin for a shear- gear or worse. A nail segment or softer would be much better.
That BTTF bit was great!
Great work guys, I've been seriously enjoying this series. It's been noted earlier in the comments, but shear pins have an important purpose. The drill bit deal scared me a bit. Tension pin would have been a better option and they are readily available....and cheap.
The reason I left J&L was scraping in the those turret headstocks. a 10' straight shaft with bearing surfaces on it was chucked into the machine and checked with a dial indicator for run-out Very tight tolerance that caused me a lot of grief.
And You got the Time Warp handle to work like this Old Tony, I really need that option.
SOOOOOOOO SATISFYING.
Love this series so much.
Looks amazing guys great job
You guys got so lucky on this deal
Fabulous video and the music was just right 👍🏻😆🇬🇧
Yea, scraping is a skill that takes years to not just master, learn at all without destroying the matching surfaces. Better off stoning them.
Stoning them will do nothing except make it worse. Scripting isn't very hard. Keith Rucker and John Saunders have hosted scraping classes, which Abom79 also attended. With just a day of instruction, they were all doing scraping that was getting them into the sub "tenths" (tenths of a thousandth) to 10 millionths range. It is not very difficult, but your results are only as good as your reference plate is flat, otherwise you'll have problems with the bluing. These guys are very technically/mechanically able, so they will be able to do it. Though they should practice on some stuff before going to work on the ways. Being proficient and consistent are what take years, but they will be able to get it very flat. Provided they have some knowledge of technique and practice, have a flat reference surface, and do some practice.
amazing work guys 👍👍👍💪💪💪
belo trabalho o de voces...! so quem é da profição sabe o prazer que é de restaurar uma maquina assim! estão de parabens pelo o que fazem e compartilhão
If you want the chuck dead center open the Chuck and put piece of DOM in the back fare enough that you can bore the .0005 off the jaws. I did that to a factory 10 foot engine lathe with a 16 inch chuck and it Was dead on.
Wow looks great.
Great fine tuning.
Sheer Pin Made to Shear for a reason... s to prevent further damage or Injury to one self... Use a drift pin instead...
Why this channel dosen't have 100k subscribers boggles my mind. Great work!
Really nice lathe. The gearbox is much different than the popular South Bend brand
This video re-enstates the perpetual fact of life :
There is hard work !
and
There is great work !
Worlds apart.
The music added real excitement
Nice leveling bro 👏👏👏
yep drill bit shear pin was a bad idea, drills are usually HSS or some type of A1 tool steel (drill rod). It's not going to shear properly and will likely cause another part to fail as a result.
The whole point of a shear pin is for it to break, a drill bit is hard so it is less likely to break. You should use brass or copper or something like that
You have to use ballistol gun oil on the instruction panel. Just apply it on a cloth and rub it on.
Amazing work and documentation! Keep up the work man, subscribing now.
Reason is in the mind of the reasoner. Not necessary to be reasonable to you. It is to them.
Momci svaka vam čast na trudu....ali generalno jedne takve mašine podrazumeva i obradu kliznih površina i takodje je veoma bitna geometrija mašine kao i uglovi njeni...to treba proveravati mernim satom....super ste momci
É uma delicia recuperar uma maquina sempre fiz isso.
O gatinho estava duvidando do resultado final né?
Alumabright or alumaprep will take the tarnish right off the brass with a cotton cloth a d some rubbing.
perhaps I missed it with the time-lapse, but were new gaskets installed?
I enjoyed watching a film about your work. Attaboy. Greetings from Moscow.
Also- if you need hardware for similar projects in the future - try McMaster-Carr. Unreal selection!
The Marty McFly got me subbed
this is awesome keep itup guys!
i messed up a spindle by using wrong (too hard) sheerpins... be careful!
Induction harden bed. Good luck at scraping in that
Hi There, Great work! really inspired by the dedication, About that Brass alloy plate with company logo and other tech details. looks like you can actually improve the surface finish and get a nice Shine on it just by buffing it with calcium powder or lime stone powder. hope that will work out well! cheers
Hey Guys and Gal, I see that you edited out all the sware words. You may wish to spray a clear enamel on the hand wheels where you polished them up. Will prevent rust in the future. Have enjoyed the series. I have all this to go through for a Nebel Lathe I am restoring.
Hope you thought to oil all that stuff you are reinstalling!
het resultaad is geweldig proficiat mannen
Get a digital level. You can still only get so close with the bubble level and you are still off. Just like a carburetor on a car it’s the perfect way to measure air and fuel exactly the wrong way at all RPMs. Close only counts in horseshoes and hand grenades. If you want it right do it right.
A drill bit won’t sheer unless annealed. Serious damage.
I want to find one of these GEMS soon after i build my garage... plqnning to build a 24x32 garage with 2 doors, and a side overhead for the tractor, and lawn tools. with the main doors on the short side. have 200AMP service to the house, so should be able to run a 100AMP service box and line to the garage for 220/240..
a shear pin is like a clutch,put there to release before failure to expensive parts.
use a long rod ant put the gauge on the carousel and measure across the length to see the difference between the center axes.
Put some paper on the gear mesh when its remove it will have a good clearance and grease it...
How much did it cost to refurbish it, including tape, rust removal, paint, sand paper, ect.
I think you're going to want a bit more clearance on those gears where you made a new shear pin. That is you will need to put them further apart. Gear mesh is kind of counter intuitive; you'd think you want maximum contact and have them as close together as possible, the reality is that will cause excessive wear. There should be a spec for tooth clearance or separation. From the video they look too tight.
Correct, you need to loosen that up bro.
Also, please please please get a paintbrush, dip it in some oil, and paint over every bit of exposed steel on that machine. Follow it up with a rag to get rid of the excess.
It's called backlash, and if you don't have it you'll be crying one day in the future. If you don't know, don't fiddle with it. Or just ask a real engineer.
Use reg or riding paper place it in between 2 gears when you take the paper out you'll find a backlash is correct
So insperional.....Im picking a vintage lathe that i want/try to restore....😅
Nice work..dobar posao
The world turns, on Colchester lathes.
Woah, that adjustment of the bit looked really interesting! Could you go into more detail on what it was you did to center it exactly? Thanks!
quickknowledge The chuck mounts on a backplate. They loosened the screws that hold the chuck onto the backplate, indicated it to find the area where the max TIR (total indicated runout) was, and tapped it in with a soft blow hammer.
Hope you changed that shear pin. Should be something soft like aluminum
Many many theow!
there was no need for the seal on the gear box cover?
You probably heard or seen this a million times, but I'll say it anyway. Check out Vintage Machinery. Keith Rucker is a genius and probably done all the things your doing a hundred times over. Looks great and don't worry about the haters👍🏻 they probably never seen a lathe in real life.
Where did you get the manual? It looks like a lot more detailed than the 6 pager I've found for my Craftsman 12" lathe.
That shear pin is designed to break off if you have any foreign matter that gets in those gears you would rather have that shear pin break off then your break off one of those teeth or a row of those teeth on those gears also do not use hardened steel use brass or aluminum for a shear pin
Did I understand you to say you were laser cutting your own gaskets? Drill bit pin, bad idea if it is a shear pin; good idea if its a drive pin.
Beauuuutiful!
I am confused at the centering attempt at 5 minutes in. If you center by using the router chucked in the jaws, I can't see how it will work as a 3-jaw chuck has got too much slop to truly center a part in the lathe. Even if you dialed it in now, the next time it'll be gone and it's not sure the chuck is truly centered either in relation to the spindle, because 3-jaws do not clamp even truly round objects properly centered.
Trying to do it like this seems like chasing your own tail, I am no expert on this but it seems more logical to try and use the inner and outer surfaces of the chuck for reference to get it centered in the spindle. Then see what the jaws say.
3 jaw chucks ALWAYS have runout, if you want perfection get a 4 jaw chuck
mabye some rust under the Name plate, shuld tear down to clean
dont let nobody tell you what to do.
Aren't the ways hardened? They are on the Bantam I use. I thought grinding/lapping was the only option with hardened ways?
Yeah, they are hardened, but as long as you have a scraper that's harder then the ways it will still scrape. We will be using carbide. At least that's what I found in my research. it may take longer of course then none hardened ways.
It is. You can't (or don't) scrape hardened ways. I'm not sure his are hardened, but most Bantams that I've seen are, if they are he won't be able to scrape them no matter how much he wants to. If he's dead set on scraping something he could do the apron and gibs, but he very likely to do more harm than good unless he spends a couple months of studying and practicing on scrap cast pieces. Also if they are more than a couple thou out he will need to mill them to within that before he starts scraping unless he wants to scrap for a solid year of evenings/weekends or so and I don't see a milling machine anywhere around there....or a large surface plate....or a precision straight edge/prismatic straight edge ....or a carbide grinder... and so and so forth...and none of that stuff is even remotely cheap. For him to say "there's nothing anyone can say to make me change my mind" he's either done most of that and got the rest planned out OR he's totally ignorant on what goes into scraping a machine like that and will be eating those words after he destroys his ways and figures out to have them properly ground it will cost 5-10 times what that machine is worth even after the restoration. Regardless I wish him the best of luck, it does look pretty good so far.
+Physics Anonymous Have you physically tried to scrape a Hardened material by hand? Cast iron is hard enough to scrape let alone something hardened. I'm not saying it can't be done, while in theory carbide would/could scrape a hardened cast or steel it would take you a very very long time to do it with a Biax or other ($2000) power scraper and a LIFETIME to do it by hand and a couple generations if it's out more than a couple thou. You've probably already proved a lot of people wrong with this project so far, don't go and mess your record up now.=)
Thanks Steve, I really do appreciate your comments. chances are pretty high I will eat my words. I have no problem doing that. we do have a large surface plate, and some large precision granite parallels we will be using. indecently we do have a CNC mill that we built. its been hiding in the background for a long time, though we wont be using that for this effort. But a small point of confusion in what you are saying. you say the ways are much to hard to scrape, but you also say we will destroy them. Seems to me the worst we can do is barely effect them. we will be taking it slow (as if we had a choice) and checking our progress regularly. my bets on you and future me being right, and we wont make it very far, but that's not going to stop us from trying.
I shouldn't have said destroy as that would imply that they'd be junk. I don't believe you are are to junk anything and I have no doubt with the work ethic you've displayed that you can do whatever you set your mind to and trust me I know you will be taking it slow =). I am by no means an expert on scraping or machining, but I have read a lot on it and done some myself, but I've talked to many guys that are about this subject because I was thinking about doing it myself on my Leblond and by far the consensus was not to try and scrap the hardened ways. I also had a very hard time finding someone that had successfully completed this task. In the end I obviously decided not to and just do the cast surfaces that ran on the hardened ways as these surfaces are obviously are meant to wear before the ways because they are softer and in the end I have a machine that can make parts way beyond the tolerances I work in and frankly am capable of producing on a regular basis. If nothing else I would encourage you to start with the apron and cast surfaces first and at least see how tight you can get the machine before messing with the hardened ways, if nothing else to have a better understanding of what it takes and who knows maybe you will be happy with it w/o doing the hard ways or maybe you won't, but at least you'll know. Also if the surfaces are very bad you might think about use Turcite or something like it to build them back up, but you will have to mill first and honestly if there's any appreciable wear you will need to do that anyway to avoid trying to scrap out 10 or 20 thou because if your planning to scrap out that much by hand you are for sure setting yourself for failure. Your surface should be within at least 5 thou before you think about scraping. I'm guessing you've already watched all the vids on YT about scraping but if not, Keith at Vintage Machinery recently did a video on his lathe regarding this very subject you should check it out. All the best and good luck.
Concern lovely job, but the sheer pin needs to be and not a drill bit. The function of a sheer pin is to protect all the running gear.
Now your not, your running on luck! Cheers
Эль Гато рыжий пришел заценить волшебство. Заценил, но Вискас не получил. Наверно из другой бригады.
3:15 he reading a book .did get him from the internet
I was interested in seeing you laser cut the gasket
I would have changed those round control knobs to red, yellow or blue
a shear pin should be of a softer metal than the mating part.
I didn't see any lubrication applied at all when all the gear sets were assembled and sealed up..
+joseph crowley good eye, these gear sets actually sit in oil, like a car transmission. I just have to remember to fill it with oil before I run it the first time
playlist?
One doesn't just indicate the cat!
lol
HI GUYS, IM NOT SURE BUT ..ITS OK BACKLASH OF GEARBOX GEARS ?..TNX FOR THE TUTORIAL?
i would want to examine the ways carefully with a long straight edge. when you bolted the lathe to the chip table and base i wonder if that distorted the ways.. the base could be far more rigid than the lathe. loosen the lower mounting bolts and see if it springs back.. some companies use to sell a dial indicator bracket that could slide along the top of a straight edge to let you see what the surface below was doing.
if you are going to scrape the ways. better take it all apart again.. you may also want to check out this weeks video on flat stones. th-cam.com/video/DVLXsq7pi9Y/w-d-xo.html
Sheer pins should be of a softer metal. Like coal roll