Thank you for the information. I have a 2021 JLUS EcoDiesel. It now has 52,000 miles on it. I use about 5 gallons of DEF every 3500 miles. I had my HPFP recall about 2 months ago. I prayed I was not going to have my old HPFP fail before they had one available. Whew! I have had a loss of power only once and that was in the summer in Arizona going up a long 7% incline on I-17 after a 2 1/2 inch lift and bigger tires. I also have a roof rack and carried a lot of weight inside. I pulled over to the shoulder and turned the engine off and then restarted. No big deal but not what I like to happen. Otherwise, I love the diesel. Fantastic torque, reasonable fuel economy and the diesel sound. Ninety nine percent of my "city" driving is on a 4 lane but 55 mph speed limit road with no traffic lights for 11 miles and then 45 mph limit with traffic lights. Some is off road in the desert for a few hours. The remainder is cross country driving to visit family with overlanding. IMHO driving a 3.6 gas engine in the city as a daily commuter is the best option for most people. I am retired and that is not my driving style so a diesel works for me.
Thank you for the kind feedback. Glad you r HPFP didn't make you walk one day! A few comments/notes. First, I've got a lot of updated info that I'll be posting to a below comment...I'll Ieave you a new reply once I get the info posted (just in case you have interest in it). Also, I know the exact section of road you are talking about...I lived in Phoenix for 2 years and took I-17 to Flagstaff many times. I fact, about 2/3rd of the way up that massive hill/grade, my 2001 Ram Cummins, with dual compound turbo setup, decided at 58 lbs of boost that an inner cooler hose didn't need to be connected anymore! I was pulling a trailer and passing everyone left and right (1100 ft lbs of torque allows you to do that!) when the hose blew off with a massive bang! Scare the crap out of me...thought I'd just lost the motor. However, all I lost was of the boost, but was motor was still running and keeping about 50 mph going up the hill...though the amount of black smoke was impressive. Lucky for me I keep all my off-road motorcycle tools in the bed of my truck (shell with plastic toolbox for the dirt bikes)...I had what I needed to put things right and continue on my way...just with not as much throttle...at least not till I could make a better friction fit for the boost hose. Have a nice one...
It's been pretty good for me too. Have a 2019. I use these eco fuel saving tabs that made the engine sound much quieter, gave it better performance and give better mpgs, also less regens. I always run shell or esso diesel never fill with no name stuff.
Buy Cetane diesel fuel addative: Diesel fuel combustion depends on the auto-ignition quality of the fuel. Super-Tane improves diesel fuel cetane rating from 4 to 8 points, thus improving fuel quality, combustion and engine efficiency. Higher cetane diesel fuel makes your diesel truck, car, boat or equipment run more efficiently and more quietly, gives you more power and makes the engines easier to start while cutting down on black smoke emissions.
Thank you for your info. It was very insightful. I am a current JK owner, 2011, and I am looking to upgrade either my gas motor to an LT or consider a newer used eco-diesel model similar to what you currently have.
Thank you for the kind feedback. I need to do an update video because I've learned a lot more since doing the current video. If you haven't read all the posts for this video, I highly recommend you skim over them because a few have some very detailed replies/info from me. Hope you find a good newer ride!!
Thank you for the kind feedback. Yes, big bummer on no more diesel JLs...I feel lucky to accidently decide to buy one during their short model option run. I just wish it was a Cummins! 😁
Truck looks awesome! I love how fastidious you are about the vehicle. Mind sharing your suspension decision/choices and the specs/brand of your wheels? Well done, friend.
Thank you for the feedback. I would strongly disagree that the mods are a byproduct of being fastidious. The mods where selected based on over 40 yrs of off roading experience…just not with a Jeep. Here are the answers to your questions: Wheels are KMC KM545 Trek 17x9 with (-)15 offset - Satin Black / Gray. Suspension Mods: IMHO the Rubicon platform is an excellent foundation to start with; however, it does have more than several areas that can benefit from significant improvement. The shocks are the 3.0 race IBPs … they make the medium speed trails not so slow going … and most trails we normal hit/plan to hit have at least a good percentage of medium speed or better (i.e., Dollhouse is 30 miles medium and 21 miles slow-4 and 7 ratings. With the Fox shocks and bumps stops I can usually double the speed, over the same terrain, of a slightly modified Jeep Rubicon. The suspension goal was a balanced mixture of Baja Pre-runner and 8 out of 10 trail capabilities (not a rock crawler … but capable of navigating terrain just short of rock crawling). The suspension is setup for maximum articulation where limit of shock shafts match limit of bump stops and limit of axle drop (shock shafts are using 100% of travel both up and down…usually not the case unless you do custom modifications to find the limiting factor, which IMHO should be checked against the shock shaft travel. I also accomplished a few other suspension mods (one custom and one vendor manufactured) … please see the following videos I posted -- a lot more info than what I would want to type in a reply. - Control Arms Mod: th-cam.com/video/E595V1JVX0k/w-d-xo.html - Rear Sway-Bar Mod: th-cam.com/video/fRuKUA8S9i4/w-d-xo.html Hope this answers your interests…
Thank you for the kind feedback. As a matter of fact I have at least 6 more JLU Diesel videos almost ready for upload...might have one uploaded next weekend.
I have a banks tuner on mine and it burns way less def fluid now..... be interesting to see the difference before and after with that handy dandy thing you got.
@@Escape.Idiocracy Good question...unfortunately I installed the SCANGAUGE post installing the piggyback tuner. But form a logic perspective...soot is extra heavy when in over fueling conditions (i.e., fuel for 5 psi of boost but turbo is still spooling up...so no 5 psi yet). I think in this situation it is a trade off between tunes with the stock tune having more turbo lag (soot in the lower RPMs)... and the aftermarket tune might have more soot at the upper RPM/LOAD levels (aftermarket tunes allow higher MAX fuel and boost conditions). One other tidbit...turbo temps are higher with aftermarket tunes...this helps add additional heat in the DPF...thus burning off some of the soot without being in REGEN mode. Sorry I cannot provide a more solid answer... have a nice one...
Ya'll newer jeep ( eco diesel)owners Do Know about the Def injection recall right ? Also, the high pressure fuel pump made by Bosch And a radio issue that interferes with the backup camera ( recalls # Z86 and #Z96 if I recall) Not sure if that includes the Alpine Radio upgrade ( which Really Chugs Loud !)
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Yes It probably was the Y81, I didn't get the # but it had something to do with the Def injection system, maybe it was a software chip(?) Anyway, No I didn't have the fuel pump recall done yet because they are still waiting on the replacement parts. And I just found out about the backup camera/radio interference issue.
ok Steve- i have almost the identical wrangler. Do you have the cricket/whistle/exhaust leak kinda sound under light throttle? I can hear it closed up or open top. Dealer said they fixed a leaky seal in the rear hatch that was the sound...which is wasn't. It's most definetely coming from the engine BUT only under load. sitting still and revving does not duplicate the sound. I know what sounds are associated w/ the diesel but this is different. It really does sound like air escaping somehow. This isn't it but if you look at your air intake there's only a flimsy 3/4 plastic clip on it...you can squeeze open the air intake easily -at least i don't think thats it. also did an online chat w/ jeep about the regen/filter clogging. My wife drives the jeep 2 miles each way to work. Learned early that was a BIG problem. I had no idea when i bought it for her that this would be a problem. We've just turned it into our road tripper and errand vehicle so we get enough miles now. Any idea or help appreciated on that cricket sound. It's probably there all the time but can't hear it past 50mph under load.
I do not have any of the sounds you described...however...I do have unique sounds linked to my diesel wrangler. First off, I've been owning/driving diesel pickups since 2000 and one of the engine sounds generated from my Ecodiesel wrangler was definitely something new and different! Under partial throttle you get the air rushing whoosh sound (you can equate it sort of to a reverse air leak) coming from the air intake front driver side of the hood. It became even more pronounced once I upgraded my intake to an aFe performance model. The sound is coming from the turbo as it spools up...it is not a normal sound because it really doesn't have the typical turbo wine sound...it is more of a high volume low speed air passing sound. Try driving with the drivers window down...going about 20 mph...then hit the throttle for say a 50 mph accel and listen for the sound to start shortly after hitting the throttle. Then if you hear the sound release the throttle to start coasting and the sound should fade away shortly after relaxing the throttle input. If the sound follows this pattern then it almost definitely is coming from the turbo. If you hear the sound I'm describing, but determine that it is not the sound in question...then I'm afraid I cannot help any further. I'm definitely interested in hearing what you ultimately find as the source as well as the fix (if applicable). Yes, diesel need to be driven a certain way...not the same as gas vehicles. One simple piece of advice is to not baby the throttle...diesels need turbo spool to control over fueling (soot) and using the throttle like there is an egg under it is exactly the wrong thing to do. Also, when asking the vehicle to accel it is best to use extra throttle to drive a downshift vs light throttle without a downshift (i.e., lugging the motor). Diesels tend to like low RPM tall gear pulls, but the low RPMs really delay the turbo spooling up to cover the extra fuel (AFR is rich until boost matches fuel injected). So, if RPM is on the lower side (below 2000k ish) I'd give extra throttle to force a downshift to get the RPMs up quicker. You DO NOT want to move the throttle slowly when trying to get a downshift...a short quick movement usually works faster and better...a slow movement tends to tell the Computers to keep the same gear/no downshift. A lot of diesel truck owners always drive with the tow/haul mode selected because it drives quicker downshifts and less top gear slow speed engine RPM conditions (keeping the DPF and EGR systems much cleaner of soot). I other bit of info. I've noticed with my Ecodiesel wrangler that if I'm coming to a stop, but do not stop completely...say still moving around 5 mph...and then I hit the throttle to excel again (especially when making right hand turns at traffic lights) I get the deal throttle pedal event where more throttle doesn't produce more acceleration. If you get the same condition it is best to try and avoid the factors/situations causing/inducing the condition...but when you cannot you have to completely get out of the throttle and then push the throttle down again. If you just leave the throttle depressed when this happens it only causes a longer delay before you start feeling normal acceleration again. I hated this disconnect between what I did with the throttle vs how the engine responded...so I install an aFe piggyback turner box...jeep drives so much better now! I hope you find at least one bit of info in this reply useful...happy to provide more info/details if interested. Have a nice one..
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq All great info. I come from big duramax diesels so despite it being diesel almost everything related to this is different w/ this thing. Good to know on how these ecodiesels need to be driven. I'll repost if i figure out the sound i have. My wife says she doesn't care but it drives me nuts. I'll keep after it! Great channel
@@bigalforsyth sorry for the extra info you already knew about....i would have made my reply a lot shorter had I known you were a D-Max owner. Not sure if you know, but the ecodiesels are italian. D-max is GM Isuzu venture. My cummins doesn't run or act anything like my ecodiesel. I hope you find the source for the strange sound. Have a nice one...
Interesting... The manufacture create their own DEF burn/use formula and thus can have/program in more DEF used than needed (without harming anything)...say for the first couple thousand miles of a new vehicle. However, this does seem unlikely. What is true is that the amount of DEF used cannot by less the amount needed to handle reducing nitrogen oxides (EPA will not allow it!). So, the logic conclusion is that your engine was generating additional NOx and thus had to use/inject more DEF per mile. So, if you worked the engine harder during the first several thousand miles...more DEF used....or maybe part of it was caused by the engine break-in period...or it was programed to do just that...extremely hard to say. The simple rule seems to be around 2% DEF per Fuel burned (or 50 gallons of diesel to 1 gallon of DEF). Hope this info helps some...
Thank you for the info...I actually installed that package/setup about 4 months ago. I would have purchased it sooner, but the iDash gauge only came with a suction cup option and I didn't want the setup. Once they did the A-Pillar Pod I jumped on the full kit. I've been using Banks stuff on my Diesel vehicles since 2001...love their products! Have a nice one...
No, I cannot say that I have...and I cannot imagine that I wouldn't have noticed if it did pop-up. I use an aftermarket gauge setup to monitor my REGEN status and state (% and if active)....so, if I'm getting close to a REGEN cycle I'll take a more freeway route (to my destination) to allow the REGEN to happen under best driving conditions. I also (when driving conditions support) do one last trick once the soot level drops (burns off) to 25%...I come to a stop and do a full throttle accel (60+ ish) to get high exhaust gas velocity & slightly higher heat for the last portion of the REGEN cycle.
Yes, Y81 Recall. Lucky for me I have another diesel Def vehicle to do a comparison against (i.e., soot build up rate, def usage rate, etc.)...the Jeep doesn't seem to be working incorrectly/noticeably differently. Currently I do not plan to take my jeep in for the Y81 recall. The biggest improvement I got with all around performance was post installation of the aFe scorcher box...it really made the engine run/work correctly (more like my cummins).
I have a question have you by any chance changed out the factory none functional hood scoops or inner fender liners? Thank you for the video I ordered a rubicon wrangler echo diesel and it’s to be built April 6th I’m very excited
CONGRATS on your purchase! I had mine built as well...it was a good feeling day when it arrived for pick up. Regarding your questions: No to both. However, I plan on changing out both items...I already have the inner fender liners...just need to install them. I'll order the replacement Mopar Hoot Vents once they are in-stock. I went with the Rugged Ridge fender liners...I won't be able to provide any feedback on the them until after the install and some use.
UPDATE REPLY: I've installed the Rugged Ridge fender liners and I like them a lot (but they are the only ones I've used so I have no comparisons). Regarding the hood vents...I'm not sure if I'm going to get the open ones, but if I do I will NOT change out the driver side hood vent...reason...it HVAC outside air intake is just behind it (below windshield) and thus it would cause the hot air from the engine compartment to be sucked into the HVAC system when selecting outside air. I live out in the desert so I do not need more heat! I might change out the passenger side, but only if I start seeing higher temps under the hood...last summer was a non-issue...i.e., vent wouldn't gain much of anything. Have a nice one..
First Question: Emissions Recall Y81: calls for a reprogram of the PCM - Powertrain Control Module (recall first IDed on Canadian vehicles--2020 gladiators I believe). The recall changes DEF consumption; however, lots of people state they are getting ~2+ MPG after the REPROGRAM/FLASH (once again mostly Gladiators). I currently have no plans to take mine in for the recall. California will not allow you to renew vehicle reg if recall is not done!...I'm super happy to say I do NOT live in California!!! Second Question: Yes, I got CEL P026C right after I purchased my jeep (was still 100% stock). It is a known CEL dating back to 1st Gen Ecodiesels (2014 Rams & Jeeps). I kept getting the CEL so I researched it and resolved it. I will be posting a video, in a few weeks, on the P026C CEL and what I did to resolve it.
Now, we have something in common code P026C but I have another code P04DA. What was the fix on your fault code? I have a 2022 Rubicon EcoDiesel…with less than 100 miles I have to take it back to the dealership. It was there for over a month and I just got it back last Thursday.
@@armandotatad9950 IMHO, the engine tune (stock) is too tweaked for MPG and emissions...the P026C most Jeep owners get is actually a nuisance fault (nothing really wrong with anything). The good fix is an aftermarket ECM tune (or piggyback ECM controller)...so in your case I'd sit on the sidelines for now and regrettably deal with the BS at the dealership. I'd wait until the dealership gets the P04DA code resolved to see if by some strange chance your P026C goes away at the same time...because there actually could be something wrong when you get a P026C...though the statistics/odds state that you do not have anything wrong/fixable.
An engineer was involved in the troubleshooting…they replaced EGR valve, PCM, Map sensor and repined a connector…it was a long wait for parts but the quality of work at dealership is really poor for I found out that the technician didn’t put my Jeep the right way so I am bringing it back this coming Tuesday. FCA corporate is involved on this issue…
@@armandotatad9950 so very sorry for you...brand new jeep! They didn't know what was the issue because they changed too many parts...they where just guessing and hoping for the best....which unfortunately is not a good sign. I hope they got lucky and you end up good to go after your next visit. The video I made for the CELs has a part that could be you!... If you watch it remember that I made the video before I heard your story...that makes my video pretty accurate... 😉
Another issue we have found was that the engine stalls out on a failed attempt to climb a very steep obstacle. Very scary when you’re on a side of a cliff and engine shuts off with the jeep at over 45 degree incline
I've never had that happen...and I hope I never do! I've also never heard of it happening to anyone else either (JLURs). I wonder if you hit an angle large enough to trip the rollover engine kill switch/logic... thank you for passing the info along.
@@williammaguire5475 no- they offer an emissions compliant tune…. Which leaves the dpf and egr intact. Have not seen a company yet to offer a gen 3 delete.
I do the same on both my diesels (refill def around 1/2 tank...but Jeep usually around 3/4s). I also do one other thing...about once a year (to 1.5 yrs) I let the DEF tank run down pretty low to cycle out more of the DEF, but mostly to allow the tank system to read below half a tank (which it never would see). I cannot find (haven't look extremely hard yet) much info on what the DEF tank level sensor looks like or how it reads the level...I just know the sensor in my Jeep is very sensitive and quick to fluid level changes ((i.e., DEF sloshing around in the tank)--not the factory gauge...talking sensor input to the vehicle software. I plan on doing a DEF crystallization test in the coming months...I want to see what happens when DEF repeatedly gets a surface wet-then-dries...i.e., does it build up layers or just always have a dry dust surface until next wet cycle. I'm doing this more out of interest than any real concern. Have a nice one...
The engine will still fail as they have not addressed the main bearing issue, all they have done is re routed the egr system but it will contaminate the oil with soot, and eventually clog the oil way to the top of the main bearings.
I'm sorry, but I'm not tracking all that you mentioned. And regarding "engine will still fail"...that is a pretty solid statement...and has been said about tons of motors on the market. For example, the BMW E9X motors had crank/rod bearing issues that doomed every motor (not my words) and I had well over 100k without any issues ... when according to the internet gods my motor should have blown up before 80k! Soot is controllable more than most people think...meaning drive your diesel wrong and you will gen 10x+ more soot than someone that drives in correct. The fix for the issue you mentioned can easily be addressed by changing the engine oil more often and driving in a way that lessens soot gen...both can be easily done via the vehicle owner. Yea, the extra oil changes will suck, but are not that big of a deal. I plan on keeping my diesel jeep until I'm dead or cannot drive anymore...so I'll be able to see if your statement comes true or not. Happy trails...
Great video! What are your current thoughts on the ecodiesel? I dumped my JKU recently. My buddy has a Ecodiesel and he’s trying to convince me to get one. I’ve had Powerstrokes in the past and that’s all my diesel experience but I don’t want to have a nightmare on my hands. I want it to be like a 7.3L or a 5.9!! Are they going to last a long time? What do you think? I would appreciate your thoughts. I would keep the thing for a long time. - Geoff
(updated 26 Jan 24 -- see end of this post) First off, thank you for the kind comment. Second, before I answer your question, I'll give you some of my background so you can add some level of value/weight to my answer. Because this cannot be a short answer...at least not with the amount of new info I've learned since making the above video...I'm going to use bullets to list the most important observations/analysis/findings. Here's my quick background: been off-roading since late 70s, first jeep was a 76 AMC CJ5, been racing off-road since mid 80s, vocationally trained for automotive repair/maintenance, do all my own mods/work/fab on my vehicles, started owning diesels in 2000, my JLUR EcoDiesel is my fifth diesel. If you haven't already, I recommend you watch the following JLUR videos I posted...these videos give you a small glimpse into my capabilities. I do all my own research, issue troubleshooting/isolation, and issue solution (if someone hasn't already posted how they resolved the issue -- and if I trust the resolution to work for my IDed issue/concern). th-cam.com/video/yq3bPwqqSW4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=tAP7-4VSkTYRzsET th-cam.com/video/543t2aVCjOA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=iU3O8qzF9wsWbmzp th-cam.com/video/fRuKUA8S9i4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=zhuRbnsEQFkX4jqb th-cam.com/video/A1Ct7QeCKVs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=_qu8Ntis4S0xDPEh (note: I have a Jeep playlist on my TH-cam channel)... - Bullet info in work...check back for an updated post...have a nice one... - Bullet info added to additional reply to your first post...I think it was too long to add to this post...Note: Post starts out with "Sorry if there are typos..."
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Steve, thank you for your reply! I appreciate it. I watched several of those other videos of yours and they are great as well. I am not as experienced as you with vehicle repair but do all of my own maintenance and most repairs as well! I just hate doing electrical work :) I just keep wondering if this motor is going to turn out to be a good one or not? It always takes time for this to unfold as well. The 3.6L Pentastar has turned out to be a nice little engine that I think lasts a long time. It has its typical issues but they are easy and cheap to fix. I just wonder if the 3.0L Ecodiesel is going to be the same? I really want to get one but I am concerned about some sort of catastrophic failure at 100K miles that ends up grenading the entire engine like what happened on some of the 6.0L Powerstrokes (the early ones that is, I owned one and bulletproofed it and never had any problems). Thanks! - Geoff
Did you get the full BULLET info I left -- it was extremely long??? I just came back for a new post and noticed that my reply didn't have the updated info I added.
If it was 3/4 full you still had over 5k miles left on the fluid so why does it matter dude? Making something out of nothing. Other than that, solid video. Thanks for sharing
It is about the level sensor having difficulty reading correctly several hours after off road...and I never said it is an issue...just passing alone an observation. Also, nothing to do with the def sensor observation...the best I've ever done with 3/4 of a tank of def is 3500...there is no way I'd ever see 5k from a tank of def.
If I understand your statement correctly...you are saying that you put in a Tune where the Tune software deleted portions (or all) of your emissions systems...correct?? The answer depends...my two cents are... if you software deleted only the EGR system, so the EGR valve is never commanded to open, then a tune only mod logically should be fine. However, if the Tune also deleted the DPF, without actually removing the DPF, then same logic applied means you most likely will have problems. Here is why (IMHO for both)... the EGR allows exhaust gases back into the intake to reburn the already burnt exhaust gases. Not having the EGR valve commanded open means all exhaust gases go out the exhaust (just like before the EGR was invented). You just have to have the Tune modified to reflect the EGR never opening...and everything should be fine. But, it is a completely different story for the DPF. The DPF has to be cleaned out via a burn cycle...removing captured soot. If this burn cycle doesn't happen then the DPF will get plugged up...greatly increasing exhaust backpressure...thus greatly reducing engine power output. If the Tune doesn't account/control DPF management (i.e., DPF cleaning/burn cycles are turned off in the Tune) then the DPF system should be removed IMHO.
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Yes, only program delete. The tune is from MrTuning Canada. It disables EGR and not sure about the detail. Thank you very much for your amazing analysis. That's educational and high quality. I will ask my tuner's customer service for more detail. Edit: the customer service said only the EGR is deleted, the DPF system functions as normal.
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Hey buddy, how many liters of oil does an EcoDiesel JGC need for oil change with oil filter? And do we change the oil at 1% oil health gauge or what? First time oil change here
@@Vziera An ED JGC takes 7.7 L of oil (an ED JLU takes 10 L)...so with a new oil filter you're most likely looking at just over 7 L for an oil change (not all the old oil will drain out). Also, do not forget the replace the Fuel Filter (critical for diesel engines)...it is to be replaced every other oil change not to exceed 20K miles or 32k klicks. I highly recommend you replace it if you do not know the last time it was done. One last POUSA, I highly recommend you only go with top quality engine oil if you plan on keeping your JGC a long time. Note: I'm not going to edit my reply...just going to type...so there might be some jumping around and/or repeating. Regarding the 1% or what cycle. The engine oil most likely has some remaining life even at 0%...a safety margin is factored in from the manufacture. However, if you plan on keeping your ED JGC for a very long time then I recommend you change the oil before hitting 8% remaining (it is not a big difference...but it is a difference). Why you ask (earlier vs later on the oil change)? Well, engine oil does two primary things... lubricates the parts and cleans/traps contaminates (internal engine stuff that an oil filter is not designed to capture). Now you might hear tons of BS from the internet community...but this is my logic with factual real world data. A gas engine produces a lot less black soot as compared to a diesel engine (gas engines have to be extremely rich to have black smoke come out of the exhaust tips...while diesels do it every time you hit the throttle and the turbo hasn't spooled up enough yet). The newer diesels do not have the black smoke/soot blowing out of the exhaust because of the DPF...the DPF catches all that blackness. However, your motor/engine is still seeing the same amount of black soot while making power and thus your engine oil still has to capture all the soot when it blows past the piston and into the crankcase (all motors, even new motors, have piston blow-by). So even though your engine oil might still be good for lubricating the internal engine parts...it might be at its max for doing its cleaning/capturing responsibilities...thus your engine will start developing excessive sludge that will ultimately cause reliability issues. The more stop and go driving you do the more soot your motor will have to clean via the engine oil. So, if you do a lot of highway driving then the oil is completely good to go for the full %, but not as good to go if you do a lot of stop and go driving. If I do a lot of off-roading with my ED JLR then I change that oil just over 5k miles (about 2k early) -- because of the soot levels in the oil. If you have never done a diesel oil change before, but have done gas engine before, then you will see what I'm talking about... because the engine oil out of a diesel will stain your skin black if you get engine oil on you! Note: Jeep puts out a Diesel Supp for ED owners... you can find it here -- just select ED option in the pulldown menu: www.mopar.com/jeep/en-us/my-vehicle/additional-publications.html Hope you find this info useful...best of luck with your first oil change...
I have question. I’m planning on getting new Jeep Wrangler unlimited rubicon. For the engine witch one u recommend. The eco diesel or 3.6 v6. That being said I’m planning on lifting and putting 40” tires and do a lot of off roading and it’s going to be my daily drive. Has well
They both have an equal amount of Pros and Cons IMHO. The diesels really do not need re-gearing with 37" and you could get away without gearing if you run 40". The 3.6 will have to be re-geared to run 40"...and most likely 37" as well. The 3.6 is 400 lbs (ish) lighter on the front axle, so if you plan on running a bunch of stuff on the front you will have a lot more options for finding the correct spring rate for the front (non-diesel). Also, the diesel engine is being dropped from the state-side S/FCA line up...so if you want a new diesel jeep the window is closing quickly....used ones might be difficult to find as well seeing that they didn't sell in high numbers and people that have them (without issues) seem to want to keep them. Lastly, if your daily drive is not hwy speeds ... if it has a lot of city type driving I would opt for the 3.6. The diesel DEF/DPF system really doesn't like a lot of city type driving...it needs hwy speeds at least 50%+ of the time to keep cleaned out correctly (this is just my strong opinion after owning diesel vehicles of over 20 yrs). Hope this info helps out some...
Hey, everyone starts off not knowing what needs to be known! 😉 Luckily you can quickly get a lot smarter on things via some really good TH-cam videos. Also my video only regards to Jeep/Ram Diesels...which is an extremely small percentage of the 4x4s out there...if you buy a GAS 4x4 then all the info in this video is not applicable. I'm not sure what level 4x4 knowledge you are at, so I'll just provide the same type advice I give to people buying their first motorcycle (hope you are not offended). The top questions to answer are: clearly define what you want from the vehicle, define what you plan on doing with it, take your best guess at what percentage of different types of terrain do you think you will hit(i.e., 20% dirt -- 80% hwy, etc.. For example, if you are not sure on the questions...and you are not too mechanically inclined...but you are still interested in getting your feet wet...then buy used but fairly new so you do not need to worry about all the maintenance required on an older purchase. If you think you will only drive graded/maintained dirt roads then Subi (similar or better) would be just fine. The more unmaintained the roads/trails the more ground clearance is needed, which means taller tires (33" and up)...so you are starting to talk 4x4 truck or jeep (not Cars or SUVs). To start going off the beaten paths you are now talking about have diff lockers, taller tires, lift kits, etc... (i.e., starting to get into heavily modified vehicles. Hope this info helps out some...drop me a comment if you want to chat more.
Most of the time the term Delete refers to removing parts of the factory emissions system(s). There are two main systems that some diesel owners buy delete kits for. 1) EGR Delete -- Exhaust Gas Recirculate System (takes part of the exhaust gases and pipes them back into the intake to mix the already burnt gases with the next clean air combustion cycle). 2) DPF Delete -- Diesel Particulate Filter (part of the DEF system - Diesel Exhaust Fluid). Both of these systems have been proven to hurt (to some degree) fuel mileage, power, oil life, and certain engine reliability -- thus the reason so many people want to get the Delete Kits. Hope this answers your question well enough...
100% agree!! However, I've learned that most of the emissions reliability hits can be corrected with pretty basic maintenance skills...so I'm not as concerned as I used to be.
... and you make the human race an overall negative experience! My guess is that you most likely are an absolute joy to be around (sarcasm)... Good for you...
@@whocares264 You bring so much unintentional entertainment... what you said is not fact, because you didn't even state it correctly!!! Your statement implies I pollute for fun...which has nothing to do with owning/using a Jeep off-road. I'm assuing that what you meant to say is that I pollute while having fun...meaning the Jeep is fun and pollution is a byproduct of the activity I'm undertaking. So, NO! It is not fact that I pollute for fun...I do not see anything about polluting as being fun. So, I can very easily and accurately deny your statement as not factual at all. However, you would be correct to state that I pollute while having fun. And since you like to strongly play the fact card...how about this...anything you own that was purchased because you want it means you pollute just to get things you want .... not things you need. If you drove your car to point of sale...you pollute to satisfy a want. And then, the item purchased has manufacturing, transportation, marketing, point-of-sale display, etc.. pollution trail for all stages ... and since you added to the supply-demand cycle you just added unnecessary extra pollution just to satisfy a craving! Almost everything you do in life adds some amount of extra pollution to the environment that otherwise wouldn't have been added had you not been born! That is actually a solid fact that you cannot hide from nor deny! I can only assume that you are one of those selective enforcement type people...i.e., a hypocrite!!!
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq looks like all that pollution has damaged your brain.. pollution is for necessities is different than pollution for fun.... why don't you and your vehicle stay in your closed garage with the engine running for fun .
@@whocares264 Wants vs Needs....I stated wants...you stated necessities...which is a Need!! You cannot even communicate correctly (at least two significant mistakes in this thread). The data more indicates that you are the one with brain damage. You want to try showing even more of your lack of intelligence...I can use the entertainment... lol Have a nice one...
You are entitled to your opinion...and as I clearly stated in the video I just provided info on my observations & opinion...not telling anyone what "they" should or shouldn't do. However, to say someone is OCD because of one video is an amazing leap! I do not think a person with a double PhD in Psychological could come to the same conclusion after just one video... and most likely a video that was not watched in its entirety. At least 9 people thanked me for sharing the info...I guess all of them are OCD as well...and only one person commented that it is a waste of a video and info...you! Thank you for the entertainment though...you unintentionally put a big smile on my face! 😂😂
I knew you were one gay person. Off the jump. I'm the looking for a dumb brunette type . wife looking ones. Maybe take a pic and go from there types. EnterChange faces and bodies would also have to be an option. Paying ass kissers would also have to be a must and only...!!! Advertising can go so many ways. P.R. a nightmare. Security never ending. Trouble you betcha. . But you'd own the world ,in short order...!!! Soon it will be good vs. evil. Good and bad. Light and Dark. But my Angel guides me. And blesses me. I know I'm suppose to lead. But it makes me afraid. But I know I'm suppose to kill it. Everyone start just praying to bless our Angels. I'm always apologizing to mine. I an not good at being there as told. Peace brothers.
If it is bad as you state then it wouldn't still be around since hitting the public market back in 2014! It definitely is no Cummins...and it definitely has some reliability issues...but not all of these engines will crap themselves...it is an absolute statistical impossibility!! At least one engine will last it full wear life...just saying...
Yes you are kind of right, but only if you delete the EGR and stop the soot getting into the oil, then it’s a great engine, the 3rd Gen has a slightly different EGR set up but soot still creeps past the rings. Best to avoid still.
These engines have been around for decades and in use in Europe for a long time. They do have problems with proper lubrication of the bearings and turbo bearings due to diesel dilution of the oil. Jeep used this engine from 2002-2004 in the Liberty and the current version is much more refined and powerful. I'm on my third year with my 2020 Rubicon diesel and I am pretty happy with it, so far. I have a lot of miles towing a popup camper, about 3000 lbs. and it gets great fuel mileage towing. But when towing, DEF consumption goes way up, especially when I go through the mountain West. I tend to not push the vehicle on upgrades when towing, especially in hot weather. Pulling Donner summit on a hot day is going to get the temp gauge moving. I use the manual function of the transmission a lot for downhill compression braking, and for merging onto a freeway. Using the automatic kickdown when merging is not the best way to get to merge speed. Enter the on ramp at 2000-2200 RPM and shift to keep the rpms in that range while accelerating onto the freeway. Trying to use the throttle to initiate shifts leads to a lot of lag. Keeping the speed down on long downgrades is quite easy with the manual shifting, especially effective when towing. Longevity in the newer versions of this engine remains to be seen. I was quite unhappy that Jeep discontinued offering the diesel after this year.
What, the fact that your parents had you! You seem like such a nice addition to the human race....I bet you're an absolute joy to be around ... Always bring such positive vibes into people's life. Thank you for the comment ... I like a good laugh to start the day....
Thank you for the information. I have a 2021 JLUS EcoDiesel. It now has 52,000 miles on it. I use about 5 gallons of DEF every 3500 miles. I had my HPFP recall about 2 months ago. I prayed I was not going to have my old HPFP fail before they had one available. Whew! I have had a loss of power only once and that was in the summer in Arizona going up a long 7% incline on I-17 after a 2 1/2 inch lift and bigger tires. I also have a roof rack and carried a lot of weight inside. I pulled over to the shoulder and turned the engine off and then restarted. No big deal but not what I like to happen. Otherwise, I love the diesel. Fantastic torque, reasonable fuel economy and the diesel sound. Ninety nine percent of my "city" driving is on a 4 lane but 55 mph speed limit road with no traffic lights for 11 miles and then 45 mph limit with traffic lights. Some is off road in the desert for a few hours. The remainder is cross country driving to visit family with overlanding. IMHO driving a 3.6 gas engine in the city as a daily commuter is the best option for most people. I am retired and that is not my driving style so a diesel works for me.
Thank you for the kind feedback. Glad you r HPFP didn't make you walk one day! A few comments/notes. First, I've got a lot of updated info that I'll be posting to a below comment...I'll Ieave you a new reply once I get the info posted (just in case you have interest in it). Also, I know the exact section of road you are talking about...I lived in Phoenix for 2 years and took I-17 to Flagstaff many times. I fact, about 2/3rd of the way up that massive hill/grade, my 2001 Ram Cummins, with dual compound turbo setup, decided at 58 lbs of boost that an inner cooler hose didn't need to be connected anymore! I was pulling a trailer and passing everyone left and right (1100 ft lbs of torque allows you to do that!) when the hose blew off with a massive bang! Scare the crap out of me...thought I'd just lost the motor. However, all I lost was of the boost, but was motor was still running and keeping about 50 mph going up the hill...though the amount of black smoke was impressive. Lucky for me I keep all my off-road motorcycle tools in the bed of my truck (shell with plastic toolbox for the dirt bikes)...I had what I needed to put things right and continue on my way...just with not as much throttle...at least not till I could make a better friction fit for the boost hose. Have a nice one...
Thanks for the info this was very helpful.
Thank you for the kind feedback...
It's been pretty good for me too. Have a 2019. I use these eco fuel saving tabs that made the engine sound much quieter, gave it better performance and give better mpgs, also less regens. I always run shell or esso diesel never fill with no name stuff.
You did a fine job.
Thank you for the kind feedback...
Absolutely fill def and all fluids before going off road!
It is surprising how many people do not check their vehicle over before an off roading adventure....
Buy Cetane diesel fuel addative: Diesel fuel combustion depends on the auto-ignition quality of the fuel. Super-Tane improves diesel fuel cetane rating from 4 to 8 points, thus improving fuel quality, combustion and engine efficiency. Higher cetane diesel fuel makes your diesel truck, car, boat or equipment run more efficiently and more quietly, gives you more power and makes the engines easier to start while cutting down on black smoke emissions.
Thank you for your info. It was very insightful. I am a current JK owner, 2011, and I am looking to upgrade either my gas motor to an LT or consider a newer used eco-diesel model similar to what you currently have.
Thank you for the kind feedback. I need to do an update video because I've learned a lot more since doing the current video. If you haven't read all the posts for this video, I highly recommend you skim over them because a few have some very detailed replies/info from me. Hope you find a good newer ride!!
Thanks for sharing.
You're very welcome...thank you for the kind feedback...
Awesome video! Hope to trade this ol 3.8 jku someday! Just finding out jeep quit putting them in… dang… anyway thank you!
Thank you for the kind feedback. Yes, big bummer on no more diesel JLs...I feel lucky to accidently decide to buy one during their short model option run. I just wish it was a Cummins! 😁
Truck looks awesome! I love how fastidious you are about the vehicle. Mind sharing your suspension decision/choices and the specs/brand of your wheels? Well done, friend.
Thank you for the feedback. I would strongly disagree that the mods are a byproduct of being fastidious. The mods where selected based on over 40 yrs of off roading experience…just not with a Jeep. Here are the answers to your questions: Wheels are KMC KM545 Trek 17x9 with (-)15 offset - Satin Black / Gray. Suspension Mods: IMHO the Rubicon platform is an excellent foundation to start with; however, it does have more than several areas that can benefit from significant improvement. The shocks are the 3.0 race IBPs … they make the medium speed trails not so slow going … and most trails we normal hit/plan to hit have at least a good percentage of medium speed or better (i.e., Dollhouse is 30 miles medium and 21 miles slow-4 and 7 ratings. With the Fox shocks and bumps stops I can usually double the speed, over the same terrain, of a slightly modified Jeep Rubicon. The suspension goal was a balanced mixture of Baja Pre-runner and 8 out of 10 trail capabilities (not a rock crawler … but capable of navigating terrain just short of rock crawling). The suspension is setup for maximum articulation where limit of shock shafts match limit of bump stops and limit of axle drop (shock shafts are using 100% of travel both up and down…usually not the case unless you do custom modifications to find the limiting factor, which IMHO should be checked against the shock shaft travel. I also accomplished a few other suspension mods (one custom and one vendor manufactured) … please see the following videos I posted -- a lot more info than what I would want to type in a reply.
- Control Arms Mod: th-cam.com/video/E595V1JVX0k/w-d-xo.html
- Rear Sway-Bar Mod: th-cam.com/video/fRuKUA8S9i4/w-d-xo.html
Hope this answers your interests…
Great vid more diesel stuff please
Thank you for the kind feedback. As a matter of fact I have at least 6 more JLU Diesel videos almost ready for upload...might have one uploaded next weekend.
You must work on aircraft or been in the military. Not to many people know of f4 tape. Ps thanks for the great info 👍
Thank you for the kind feedback...and...I did work on aircraft when I was in the military (F4 tape, Wax string, Solder sleeves, etc..!!!) 😉👍
I have a banks tuner on mine and it burns way less def fluid now..... be interesting to see the difference before and after with that handy dandy thing you got.
I have the afe scorcher tuner on mine...same...way less def used for same driving.
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq I am assuming by way less def fluid being used, a decrease in soot levels as well??
@@Escape.Idiocracy Good question...unfortunately I installed the SCANGAUGE post installing the piggyback tuner. But form a logic perspective...soot is extra heavy when in over fueling conditions (i.e., fuel for 5 psi of boost but turbo is still spooling up...so no 5 psi yet). I think in this situation it is a trade off between tunes with the stock tune having more turbo lag (soot in the lower RPMs)... and the aftermarket tune might have more soot at the upper RPM/LOAD levels (aftermarket tunes allow higher MAX fuel and boost conditions). One other tidbit...turbo temps are higher with aftermarket tunes...this helps add additional heat in the DPF...thus burning off some of the soot without being in REGEN mode. Sorry I cannot provide a more solid answer... have a nice one...
Thanks
Nice jeep
Thank you for your kind feedback. Hope you have an enjoyable holiday season...
My 21' Rubicon Sips Def after the recall replacement.
Ya'll newer jeep ( eco diesel)owners Do Know about the Def injection recall right ?
Also, the high pressure fuel pump made by Bosch And a radio issue that interferes with the backup camera ( recalls # Z86 and #Z96 if I recall) Not sure if that includes the Alpine Radio upgrade ( which Really Chugs Loud !)
Are you talking about the Y81 recall?? If so, did you have other recall stuff done during the same visit to the dealership???
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Yes It probably was the Y81, I didn't get the # but it had something to do with the Def injection system, maybe it was a software chip(?) Anyway, No I didn't have the fuel pump recall done yet because they are still waiting on the replacement parts. And I just found out about the backup camera/radio interference issue.
I think it all depends on what plant your jeep was built-in
@@HoboHiney Copy...
ok Steve- i have almost the identical wrangler. Do you have the cricket/whistle/exhaust leak kinda sound under light throttle? I can hear it closed up or open top. Dealer said they fixed a leaky seal in the rear hatch that was the sound...which is wasn't. It's most definetely coming from the engine BUT only under load. sitting still and revving does not duplicate the sound. I know what sounds are associated w/ the diesel but this is different. It really does sound like air escaping somehow. This isn't it but if you look at your air intake there's only a flimsy 3/4 plastic clip on it...you can squeeze open the air intake easily -at least i don't think thats it.
also did an online chat w/ jeep about the regen/filter clogging. My wife drives the jeep 2 miles each way to work. Learned early that was a BIG problem. I had no idea when i bought it for her that this would be a problem. We've just turned it into our road tripper and errand vehicle so we get enough miles now.
Any idea or help appreciated on that cricket sound. It's probably there all the time but can't hear it past 50mph under load.
I do not have any of the sounds you described...however...I do have unique sounds linked to my diesel wrangler. First off, I've been owning/driving diesel pickups since 2000 and one of the engine sounds generated from my Ecodiesel wrangler was definitely something new and different! Under partial throttle you get the air rushing whoosh sound (you can equate it sort of to a reverse air leak) coming from the air intake front driver side of the hood. It became even more pronounced once I upgraded my intake to an aFe performance model. The sound is coming from the turbo as it spools up...it is not a normal sound because it really doesn't have the typical turbo wine sound...it is more of a high volume low speed air passing sound.
Try driving with the drivers window down...going about 20 mph...then hit the throttle for say a 50 mph accel and listen for the sound to start shortly after hitting the throttle. Then if you hear the sound release the throttle to start coasting and the sound should fade away shortly after relaxing the throttle input. If the sound follows this pattern then it almost definitely is coming from the turbo. If you hear the sound I'm describing, but determine that it is not the sound in question...then I'm afraid I cannot help any further. I'm definitely interested in hearing what you ultimately find as the source as well as the fix (if applicable).
Yes, diesel need to be driven a certain way...not the same as gas vehicles. One simple piece of advice is to not baby the throttle...diesels need turbo spool to control over fueling (soot) and using the throttle like there is an egg under it is exactly the wrong thing to do. Also, when asking the vehicle to accel it is best to use extra throttle to drive a downshift vs light throttle without a downshift (i.e., lugging the motor). Diesels tend to like low RPM tall gear pulls, but the low RPMs really delay the turbo spooling up to cover the extra fuel (AFR is rich until boost matches fuel injected). So, if RPM is on the lower side (below 2000k ish) I'd give extra throttle to force a downshift to get the RPMs up quicker. You DO NOT want to move the throttle slowly when trying to get a downshift...a short quick movement usually works faster and better...a slow movement tends to tell the Computers to keep the same gear/no downshift. A lot of diesel truck owners always drive with the tow/haul mode selected because it drives quicker downshifts and less top gear slow speed engine RPM conditions (keeping the DPF and EGR systems much cleaner of soot).
I other bit of info. I've noticed with my Ecodiesel wrangler that if I'm coming to a stop, but do not stop completely...say still moving around 5 mph...and then I hit the throttle to excel again (especially when making right hand turns at traffic lights) I get the deal throttle pedal event where more throttle doesn't produce more acceleration. If you get the same condition it is best to try and avoid the factors/situations causing/inducing the condition...but when you cannot you have to completely get out of the throttle and then push the throttle down again. If you just leave the throttle depressed when this happens it only causes a longer delay before you start feeling normal acceleration again. I hated this disconnect between what I did with the throttle vs how the engine responded...so I install an aFe piggyback turner box...jeep drives so much better now!
I hope you find at least one bit of info in this reply useful...happy to provide more info/details if interested. Have a nice one..
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq All great info. I come from big duramax diesels so despite it being diesel almost everything related to this is different w/ this thing. Good to know on how these ecodiesels need to be driven. I'll repost if i figure out the sound i have. My wife says she doesn't care but it drives me nuts. I'll keep after it! Great channel
@@bigalforsyth sorry for the extra info you already knew about....i would have made my reply a lot shorter had I known you were a D-Max owner. Not sure if you know, but the ecodiesels are italian. D-max is GM Isuzu venture. My cummins doesn't run or act anything like my ecodiesel. I hope you find the source for the strange sound. Have a nice one...
I know I have something completly different but my DEF fluid use fell way off after the first couple thousand miles in my Silverado.
Interesting... The manufacture create their own DEF burn/use formula and thus can have/program in more DEF used than needed (without harming anything)...say for the first couple thousand miles of a new vehicle. However, this does seem unlikely. What is true is that the amount of DEF used cannot by less the amount needed to handle reducing nitrogen oxides (EPA will not allow it!). So, the logic conclusion is that your engine was generating additional NOx and thus had to use/inject more DEF per mile. So, if you worked the engine harder during the first several thousand miles...more DEF used....or maybe part of it was caused by the engine break-in period...or it was programed to do just that...extremely hard to say. The simple rule seems to be around 2% DEF per Fuel burned (or 50 gallons of diesel to 1 gallon of DEF). Hope this info helps some...
Get a pedal monster and derringer from Banks Power. With it you can monitor emissions and regen status
Thank you for the info...I actually installed that package/setup about 4 months ago. I would have purchased it sooner, but the iDash gauge only came with a suction cup option and I didn't want the setup. Once they did the A-Pillar Pod I jumped on the full kit. I've been using Banks stuff on my Diesel vehicles since 2001...love their products! Have a nice one...
Nice!!!
Everytime I go on an off road trip, I fill up my def tank and never have any issues.
👍👍
Have you ever gotten the "exhaust system regenartion in process continue driving" I got that message twice on my last trip.
No, I cannot say that I have...and I cannot imagine that I wouldn't have noticed if it did pop-up. I use an aftermarket gauge setup to monitor my REGEN status and state (% and if active)....so, if I'm getting close to a REGEN cycle I'll take a more freeway route (to my destination) to allow the REGEN to happen under best driving conditions. I also (when driving conditions support) do one last trick once the soot level drops (burns off) to 25%...I come to a stop and do a full throttle accel (60+ ish) to get high exhaust gas velocity & slightly higher heat for the last portion of the REGEN cycle.
have you looked in the recall there is in the def ? there is some OEM flash dealers are doing to make it better
Yes, Y81 Recall. Lucky for me I have another diesel Def vehicle to do a comparison against (i.e., soot build up rate, def usage rate, etc.)...the Jeep doesn't seem to be working incorrectly/noticeably differently. Currently I do not plan to take my jeep in for the Y81 recall. The biggest improvement I got with all around performance was post installation of the aFe scorcher box...it really made the engine run/work correctly (more like my cummins).
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq make a good cace to delete
PS MY FORD X IS 7.3 Love IT
LOOKING TO GET A JTRD IN 2023 REFRESH
@@WoodworthPatrick 👍
I have a question have you by any chance changed out the factory none functional hood scoops or inner fender liners? Thank you for the video I ordered a rubicon wrangler echo diesel and it’s to be built April 6th I’m very excited
CONGRATS on your purchase! I had mine built as well...it was a good feeling day when it arrived for pick up. Regarding your questions: No to both. However, I plan on changing out both items...I already have the inner fender liners...just need to install them. I'll order the replacement Mopar Hoot Vents once they are in-stock. I went with the Rugged Ridge fender liners...I won't be able to provide any feedback on the them until after the install and some use.
UPDATE REPLY: I've installed the Rugged Ridge fender liners and I like them a lot (but they are the only ones I've used so I have no comparisons). Regarding the hood vents...I'm not sure if I'm going to get the open ones, but if I do I will NOT change out the driver side hood vent...reason...it HVAC outside air intake is just behind it (below windshield) and thus it would cause the hot air from the engine compartment to be sucked into the HVAC system when selecting outside air. I live out in the desert so I do not need more heat! I might change out the passenger side, but only if I start seeing higher temps under the hood...last summer was a non-issue...i.e., vent wouldn't gain much of anything. Have a nice one..
Thanks for the video Steve…What is a Y81 recall? Do you ever have a check engine light on your Eco-Diesel?
First Question: Emissions Recall Y81: calls for a reprogram of the PCM - Powertrain Control Module (recall first IDed on Canadian vehicles--2020 gladiators I believe). The recall changes DEF consumption; however, lots of people state they are getting ~2+ MPG after the REPROGRAM/FLASH (once again mostly Gladiators). I currently have no plans to take mine in for the recall. California will not allow you to renew vehicle reg if recall is not done!...I'm super happy to say I do NOT live in California!!!
Second Question: Yes, I got CEL P026C right after I purchased my jeep (was still 100% stock). It is a known CEL dating back to 1st Gen Ecodiesels (2014 Rams & Jeeps). I kept getting the CEL so I researched it and resolved it. I will be posting a video, in a few weeks, on the P026C CEL and what I did to resolve it.
Now, we have something in common code P026C but I have another code P04DA. What was the fix on your fault code? I have a 2022 Rubicon EcoDiesel…with less than 100 miles I have to take it back to the dealership. It was there for over a month and I just got it back last Thursday.
@@armandotatad9950 IMHO, the engine tune (stock) is too tweaked for MPG and emissions...the P026C most Jeep owners get is actually a nuisance fault (nothing really wrong with anything). The good fix is an aftermarket ECM tune (or piggyback ECM controller)...so in your case I'd sit on the sidelines for now and regrettably deal with the BS at the dealership. I'd wait until the dealership gets the P04DA code resolved to see if by some strange chance your P026C goes away at the same time...because there actually could be something wrong when you get a P026C...though the statistics/odds state that you do not have anything wrong/fixable.
An engineer was involved in the troubleshooting…they replaced EGR valve, PCM, Map sensor and repined a connector…it was a long wait for parts but the quality of work at dealership is really poor for I found out that the technician didn’t put my Jeep the right way so I am bringing it back this coming Tuesday. FCA corporate is involved on this issue…
@@armandotatad9950 so very sorry for you...brand new jeep! They didn't know what was the issue because they changed too many parts...they where just guessing and hoping for the best....which unfortunately is not a good sign. I hope they got lucky and you end up good to go after your next visit. The video I made for the CELs has a part that could be you!... If you watch it remember that I made the video before I heard your story...that makes my video pretty accurate... 😉
Another issue we have found was that the engine stalls out on a failed attempt to climb a very steep obstacle. Very scary when you’re on a side of a cliff and engine shuts off with the jeep at over 45 degree incline
I've never had that happen...and I hope I never do! I've also never heard of it happening to anyone else either (JLURs). I wonder if you hit an angle large enough to trip the rollover engine kill switch/logic... thank you for passing the info along.
Hoping there will be delete kits in the future. Love my ecodiesel tho
Agree!!
There are some out there gde is one company
@@williammaguire5475 no- they offer an emissions compliant tune…. Which leaves the dpf and egr intact. Have not seen a company yet to offer a gen 3 delete.
Honestly, I refill the Def anytime it's near half a tank... much like the fuel tank.
I do the same on both my diesels (refill def around 1/2 tank...but Jeep usually around 3/4s). I also do one other thing...about once a year (to 1.5 yrs) I let the DEF tank run down pretty low to cycle out more of the DEF, but mostly to allow the tank system to read below half a tank (which it never would see). I cannot find (haven't look extremely hard yet) much info on what the DEF tank level sensor looks like or how it reads the level...I just know the sensor in my Jeep is very sensitive and quick to fluid level changes ((i.e., DEF sloshing around in the tank)--not the factory gauge...talking sensor input to the vehicle software. I plan on doing a DEF crystallization test in the coming months...I want to see what happens when DEF repeatedly gets a surface wet-then-dries...i.e., does it build up layers or just always have a dry dust surface until next wet cycle. I'm doing this more out of interest than any real concern. Have a nice one...
The engine will still fail as they have not addressed the main bearing issue, all they have done is re routed the egr system but it will contaminate the oil with soot, and eventually clog the oil way to the top of the main bearings.
I'm sorry, but I'm not tracking all that you mentioned. And regarding "engine will still fail"...that is a pretty solid statement...and has been said about tons of motors on the market. For example, the BMW E9X motors had crank/rod bearing issues that doomed every motor (not my words) and I had well over 100k without any issues ... when according to the internet gods my motor should have blown up before 80k! Soot is controllable more than most people think...meaning drive your diesel wrong and you will gen 10x+ more soot than someone that drives in correct. The fix for the issue you mentioned can easily be addressed by changing the engine oil more often and driving in a way that lessens soot gen...both can be easily done via the vehicle owner. Yea, the extra oil changes will suck, but are not that big of a deal. I plan on keeping my diesel jeep until I'm dead or cannot drive anymore...so I'll be able to see if your statement comes true or not. Happy trails...
Great video! What are your current thoughts on the ecodiesel? I dumped my JKU recently. My buddy has a Ecodiesel and he’s trying to convince me to get one. I’ve had Powerstrokes in the past and that’s all my diesel experience but I don’t want to have a nightmare on my hands. I want it to be like a 7.3L or a 5.9!! Are they going to last a long time? What do you think? I would appreciate your thoughts. I would keep the thing for a long time. - Geoff
(updated 26 Jan 24 -- see end of this post) First off, thank you for the kind comment. Second, before I answer your question, I'll give you some of my background so you can add some level of value/weight to my answer. Because this cannot be a short answer...at least not with the amount of new info I've learned since making the above video...I'm going to use bullets to list the most important observations/analysis/findings. Here's my quick background: been off-roading since late 70s, first jeep was a 76 AMC CJ5, been racing off-road since mid 80s, vocationally trained for automotive repair/maintenance, do all my own mods/work/fab on my vehicles, started owning diesels in 2000, my JLUR EcoDiesel is my fifth diesel. If you haven't already, I recommend you watch the following JLUR videos I posted...these videos give you a small glimpse into my capabilities. I do all my own research, issue troubleshooting/isolation, and issue solution (if someone hasn't already posted how they resolved the issue -- and if I trust the resolution to work for my IDed issue/concern). th-cam.com/video/yq3bPwqqSW4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=tAP7-4VSkTYRzsET th-cam.com/video/543t2aVCjOA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=iU3O8qzF9wsWbmzp th-cam.com/video/fRuKUA8S9i4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=zhuRbnsEQFkX4jqb th-cam.com/video/A1Ct7QeCKVs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=_qu8Ntis4S0xDPEh (note: I have a Jeep playlist on my TH-cam channel)...
- Bullet info in work...check back for an updated post...have a nice one...
- Bullet info added to additional reply to your first post...I think it was too long to add to this post...Note: Post starts out with "Sorry if there are typos..."
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Steve, thank you for your reply! I appreciate it. I watched several of those other videos of yours and they are great as well. I am not as experienced as you with vehicle repair but do all of my own maintenance and most repairs as well! I just hate doing electrical work :) I just keep wondering if this motor is going to turn out to be a good one or not? It always takes time for this to unfold as well. The 3.6L Pentastar has turned out to be a nice little engine that I think lasts a long time. It has its typical issues but they are easy and cheap to fix. I just wonder if the 3.0L Ecodiesel is going to be the same? I really want to get one but I am concerned about some sort of catastrophic failure at 100K miles that ends up grenading the entire engine like what happened on some of the 6.0L Powerstrokes (the early ones that is, I owned one and bulletproofed it and never had any problems). Thanks! - Geoff
@@Colorado4x4 We are on the same page...wanting to keep the vehicle over 100k miles with major expenses on the engine..
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq for sure!!!
Did you get the full BULLET info I left -- it was extremely long??? I just came back for a new post and noticed that my reply didn't have the updated info I added.
Thanks for rambling, lol Learned a lot.
Glad to ramble! Thank you for the kind feedback...
Get it deleted. I may or may not have had my Gladiator deleted! It’s the best!
What company is out there that’s selling the Down pipes and tunes?
How? In Florida and can’t find anything
If it was 3/4 full you still had over 5k miles left on the fluid so why does it matter dude? Making something out of nothing. Other than that, solid video. Thanks for sharing
It is about the level sensor having difficulty reading correctly several hours after off road...and I never said it is an issue...just passing alone an observation. Also, nothing to do with the def sensor observation...the best I've ever done with 3/4 of a tank of def is 3500...there is no way I'd ever see 5k from a tank of def.
I deleted my 2nd gen eco with only a tune and no physical alterations. Would I be ok?
If I understand your statement correctly...you are saying that you put in a Tune where the Tune software deleted portions (or all) of your emissions systems...correct?? The answer depends...my two cents are... if you software deleted only the EGR system, so the EGR valve is never commanded to open, then a tune only mod logically should be fine. However, if the Tune also deleted the DPF, without actually removing the DPF, then same logic applied means you most likely will have problems. Here is why (IMHO for both)... the EGR allows exhaust gases back into the intake to reburn the already burnt exhaust gases. Not having the EGR valve commanded open means all exhaust gases go out the exhaust (just like before the EGR was invented). You just have to have the Tune modified to reflect the EGR never opening...and everything should be fine. But, it is a completely different story for the DPF. The DPF has to be cleaned out via a burn cycle...removing captured soot. If this burn cycle doesn't happen then the DPF will get plugged up...greatly increasing exhaust backpressure...thus greatly reducing engine power output. If the Tune doesn't account/control DPF management (i.e., DPF cleaning/burn cycles are turned off in the Tune) then the DPF system should be removed IMHO.
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Yes, only program delete. The tune is from MrTuning Canada. It disables EGR and not sure about the detail. Thank you very much for your amazing analysis. That's educational and high quality. I will ask my tuner's customer service for more detail.
Edit: the customer service said only the EGR is deleted, the DPF system functions as normal.
@@Vziera That is good news on the tune.... glad you are good to go. 👍
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Hey buddy, how many liters of oil does an EcoDiesel JGC need for oil change with oil filter? And do we change the oil at 1% oil health gauge or what? First time oil change here
@@Vziera An ED JGC takes 7.7 L of oil (an ED JLU takes 10 L)...so with a new oil filter you're most likely looking at just over 7 L for an oil change (not all the old oil will drain out). Also, do not forget the replace the Fuel Filter (critical for diesel engines)...it is to be replaced every other oil change not to exceed 20K miles or 32k klicks. I highly recommend you replace it if you do not know the last time it was done. One last POUSA, I highly recommend you only go with top quality engine oil if you plan on keeping your JGC a long time.
Note: I'm not going to edit my reply...just going to type...so there might be some jumping around and/or repeating.
Regarding the 1% or what cycle. The engine oil most likely has some remaining life even at 0%...a safety margin is factored in from the manufacture. However, if you plan on keeping your ED JGC for a very long time then I recommend you change the oil before hitting 8% remaining (it is not a big difference...but it is a difference). Why you ask (earlier vs later on the oil change)? Well, engine oil does two primary things... lubricates the parts and cleans/traps contaminates (internal engine stuff that an oil filter is not designed to capture). Now you might hear tons of BS from the internet community...but this is my logic with factual real world data. A gas engine produces a lot less black soot as compared to a diesel engine (gas engines have to be extremely rich to have black smoke come out of the exhaust tips...while diesels do it every time you hit the throttle and the turbo hasn't spooled up enough yet). The newer diesels do not have the black smoke/soot blowing out of the exhaust because of the DPF...the DPF catches all that blackness. However, your motor/engine is still seeing the same amount of black soot while making power and thus your engine oil still has to capture all the soot when it blows past the piston and into the crankcase (all motors, even new motors, have piston blow-by). So even though your engine oil might still be good for lubricating the internal engine parts...it might be at its max for doing its cleaning/capturing responsibilities...thus your engine will start developing excessive sludge that will ultimately cause reliability issues. The more stop and go driving you do the more soot your motor will have to clean via the engine oil. So, if you do a lot of highway driving then the oil is completely good to go for the full %, but not as good to go if you do a lot of stop and go driving. If I do a lot of off-roading with my ED JLR then I change that oil just over 5k miles (about 2k early) -- because of the soot levels in the oil. If you have never done a diesel oil change before, but have done gas engine before, then you will see what I'm talking about... because the engine oil out of a diesel will stain your skin black if you get engine oil on you! Note: Jeep puts out a Diesel Supp for ED owners... you can find it here -- just select ED option in the pulldown menu:
www.mopar.com/jeep/en-us/my-vehicle/additional-publications.html
Hope you find this info useful...best of luck with your first oil change...
I have question. I’m planning on getting new Jeep Wrangler unlimited rubicon. For the engine witch one u recommend. The eco diesel or 3.6 v6. That being said I’m planning on lifting and putting 40” tires and do a lot of off roading and it’s going to be my daily drive. Has well
They both have an equal amount of Pros and Cons IMHO. The diesels really do not need re-gearing with 37" and you could get away without gearing if you run 40". The 3.6 will have to be re-geared to run 40"...and most likely 37" as well. The 3.6 is 400 lbs (ish) lighter on the front axle, so if you plan on running a bunch of stuff on the front you will have a lot more options for finding the correct spring rate for the front (non-diesel). Also, the diesel engine is being dropped from the state-side S/FCA line up...so if you want a new diesel jeep the window is closing quickly....used ones might be difficult to find as well seeing that they didn't sell in high numbers and people that have them (without issues) seem to want to keep them. Lastly, if your daily drive is not hwy speeds ... if it has a lot of city type driving I would opt for the 3.6. The diesel DEF/DPF system really doesn't like a lot of city type driving...it needs hwy speeds at least 50%+ of the time to keep cleaned out correctly (this is just my strong opinion after owning diesel vehicles of over 20 yrs). Hope this info helps out some...
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq thank u that help me out a lot
@@Maxoff-roading Glad I could provide some info/help...
@@SteveSmith-wl8yqhelped me! Thanks
@@BCBoost420 Thank you for the kind feedback... glad the info was useful.
I was looking to buy my first jeep/4x4/offroad car but after watching this I'm reconsidering. Everything you said was like Chinese to me. 😕
Hey, everyone starts off not knowing what needs to be known! 😉 Luckily you can quickly get a lot smarter on things via some really good TH-cam videos. Also my video only regards to Jeep/Ram Diesels...which is an extremely small percentage of the 4x4s out there...if you buy a GAS 4x4 then all the info in this video is not applicable.
I'm not sure what level 4x4 knowledge you are at, so I'll just provide the same type advice I give to people buying their first motorcycle (hope you are not offended). The top questions to answer are: clearly define what you want from the vehicle, define what you plan on doing with it, take your best guess at what percentage of different types of terrain do you think you will hit(i.e., 20% dirt -- 80% hwy, etc.. For example, if you are not sure on the questions...and you are not too mechanically inclined...but you are still interested in getting your feet wet...then buy used but fairly new so you do not need to worry about all the maintenance required on an older purchase. If you think you will only drive graded/maintained dirt roads then Subi (similar or better) would be just fine. The more unmaintained the roads/trails the more ground clearance is needed, which means taller tires (33" and up)...so you are starting to talk 4x4 truck or jeep (not Cars or SUVs). To start going off the beaten paths you are now talking about have diff lockers, taller tires, lift kits, etc... (i.e., starting to get into heavily modified vehicles. Hope this info helps out some...drop me a comment if you want to chat more.
What does deleted it mean?
Most of the time the term Delete refers to removing parts of the factory emissions system(s). There are two main systems that some diesel owners buy delete kits for. 1) EGR Delete -- Exhaust Gas Recirculate System (takes part of the exhaust gases and pipes them back into the intake to mix the already burnt gases with the next clean air combustion cycle). 2) DPF Delete -- Diesel Particulate Filter (part of the DEF system - Diesel Exhaust Fluid). Both of these systems have been proven to hurt (to some degree) fuel mileage, power, oil life, and certain engine reliability -- thus the reason so many people want to get the Delete Kits. Hope this answers your question well enough...
Regulations have killed Diesels in America. Before all this emissions stuff Diesels were the most reliable option on the market.
100% agree!! However, I've learned that most of the emissions reliability hits can be corrected with pretty basic maintenance skills...so I'm not as concerned as I used to be.
So you pollute for fun,good for you...
... and you make the human race an overall negative experience! My guess is that you most likely are an absolute joy to be around (sarcasm)... Good for you...
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq What i said is a fact , this you can't deny.
@@whocares264 You bring so much unintentional entertainment... what you said is not fact, because you didn't even state it correctly!!! Your statement implies I pollute for fun...which has nothing to do with owning/using a Jeep off-road. I'm assuing that what you meant to say is that I pollute while having fun...meaning the Jeep is fun and pollution is a byproduct of the activity I'm undertaking. So, NO! It is not fact that I pollute for fun...I do not see anything about polluting as being fun. So, I can very easily and accurately deny your statement as not factual at all. However, you would be correct to state that I pollute while having fun. And since you like to strongly play the fact card...how about this...anything you own that was purchased because you want it means you pollute just to get things you want .... not things you need. If you drove your car to point of sale...you pollute to satisfy a want. And then, the item purchased has manufacturing, transportation, marketing, point-of-sale display, etc.. pollution trail for all stages ... and since you added to the supply-demand cycle you just added unnecessary extra pollution just to satisfy a craving! Almost everything you do in life adds some amount of extra pollution to the environment that otherwise wouldn't have been added had you not been born! That is actually a solid fact that you cannot hide from nor deny! I can only assume that you are one of those selective enforcement type people...i.e., a hypocrite!!!
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq looks like all that pollution has damaged your brain..
pollution is for necessities is different than pollution for fun....
why don't you and your vehicle stay in your closed garage with the engine running for fun .
@@whocares264 Wants vs Needs....I stated wants...you stated necessities...which is a Need!! You cannot even communicate correctly (at least two significant mistakes in this thread). The data more indicates that you are the one with brain damage. You want to try showing even more of your lack of intelligence...I can use the entertainment... lol Have a nice one...
People focus to much attention DEF usage and REGENS - just drive it and enjoy it. ALL that info you gleaned just makes you OCD
You are entitled to your opinion...and as I clearly stated in the video I just provided info on my observations & opinion...not telling anyone what "they" should or shouldn't do. However, to say someone is OCD because of one video is an amazing leap! I do not think a person with a double PhD in Psychological could come to the same conclusion after just one video... and most likely a video that was not watched in its entirety. At least 9 people thanked me for sharing the info...I guess all of them are OCD as well...and only one person commented that it is a waste of a video and info...you! Thank you for the entertainment though...you unintentionally put a big smile on my face! 😂😂
Or just delete it
I 100% agree!!!!!!
I knew you were one gay person. Off the jump. I'm the looking for a dumb brunette type . wife looking ones. Maybe take a pic and go from there types. EnterChange faces and bodies would also have to be an option. Paying ass kissers would also have to be a must and only...!!! Advertising can go so many ways. P.R. a nightmare. Security never ending. Trouble you betcha. . But you'd own the world ,in short order...!!! Soon it will be good vs. evil. Good and bad. Light and Dark. But my Angel guides me. And blesses me. I know I'm suppose to lead. But it makes me afraid. But I know I'm suppose to kill it. Everyone start just praying to bless our Angels. I'm always apologizing to mine. I an not good at being there as told. Peace brothers.
Eco diesel is kaka i just trade my never buy another sorry fiat
Ok...whatever works for you ...
Don’t buy any vehicle with this engine, it will shit itself even if you service it right.
If it is bad as you state then it wouldn't still be around since hitting the public market back in 2014! It definitely is no Cummins...and it definitely has some reliability issues...but not all of these engines will crap themselves...it is an absolute statistical impossibility!! At least one engine will last it full wear life...just saying...
Yes you are kind of right, but only if you delete the EGR and stop the soot getting into the oil, then it’s a great engine, the 3rd Gen has a slightly different EGR set up but soot still creeps past the rings. Best to avoid still.
These engines have been around for decades and in use in Europe for a long time. They do have problems with proper lubrication of the bearings and turbo bearings due to diesel dilution of the oil. Jeep used this engine from 2002-2004 in the Liberty and the current version is much more refined and powerful. I'm on my third year with my 2020 Rubicon diesel and I am pretty happy with it, so far. I have a lot of miles towing a popup camper, about 3000 lbs. and it gets great fuel mileage towing. But when towing, DEF consumption goes way up, especially when I go through the mountain West. I tend to not push the vehicle on upgrades when towing, especially in hot weather. Pulling Donner summit on a hot day is going to get the temp gauge moving. I use the manual function of the transmission a lot for downhill compression braking, and for merging onto a freeway. Using the automatic kickdown when merging is not the best way to get to merge speed. Enter the on ramp at 2000-2200 RPM and shift to keep the rpms in that range while accelerating onto the freeway. Trying to use the throttle to initiate shifts leads to a lot of lag. Keeping the speed down on long downgrades is quite easy with the manual shifting, especially effective when towing. Longevity in the newer versions of this engine remains to be seen. I was quite unhappy that Jeep discontinued offering the diesel after this year.
What a stupid waste of time!
What, the fact that your parents had you! You seem like such a nice addition to the human race....I bet you're an absolute joy to be around ... Always bring such positive vibes into people's life. Thank you for the comment ... I like a good laugh to start the day....
Jeep are very stupid they need to use Cummins no def small are very clean california need to relax
That is one opinion out of billions of opinions ...
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the kind feedback...