I find comfort in knowing that I’ve also got you guys every Saturday morning. The guys from Gears and Gasoline are wrapped up and unable to upload but my favorite Canadians made it!
They also turn gases which are not great for humans but basically harmless to the climate... into yet more carbon dioxide. Which is harmless to humans, but, um, yeah... 😂
Thinking about all the channels I just realized this is a perfect blend of donut and vtec academy. High production and personality meets actual knowledge and skill. Hope you guys hit 1m subs soon, you deserve it
Yes and no....... that is definitely true and the easiest way to avoid it but...... CHECK THIS OUT It also depends if you're doing a street build or track build.... I built over 30 Hondas since the early 2000s and.... I will say that now that we don't have cat on my built 95 Civic coupe or my 04 Honda Accord V6 6-speed manual coupe hfp Honda factory performance package with full bolt ons tuned IF YOU'RE GOING TO DELETE THE CAT...... The key is to getting a really really nice good custom exhaust built or even something like a yanaka exhaust may help keep some of that rasp down BUT A VIBRANT RESONATOR IS A MUST!! Now it's something like the V6 Accord you have to go no cats if you want to make power because they come with three cats from the factory and when you do the pre-cat deletes and then the j pipe that deletes the third cat it's basically like a header when you do all three of those things it really makes a significant difference in power compared to running high flows or keeping the cats on Now on my 95 Civic coupe when it was a fully built all motor d-series pushing almost 200 hp at the wheels yes I know it's crazy most people don't do that with an all motor d-series but believe me it is possible (seen people push even higher) that car I don't necessarily have to delete the cat but when I was running the d-series build every little bit counted especially when I came to my 4-1 header and custom exhaust was trying to get every horsepower I got out of that motor Now that it is and all motor k series with a k24 block and a K20 head I don't necessarily have to go decatted header but it didn't make a little bit more on the dyno with it that way The main way I say to do it is if you're going to run without a cat you're going to have a header and you're going to have a full exhaust the best way to avoid rasp is to get yourself a nice custom exhaust build and then do a really good vibrant resonator promise you that thing won't be raspy if you do it right But if you're just looking for a simple day-to-day build like maybe and take it as exhaust on it then yeah keep the cat man you avoid the rest and it's a lot easier that way I just don't mind taking it off because we took away emissions here in Washington state a few years back when we met the requirements of the EPA And honestly my 95 Civic coup e when it was still a semi Built d-series not even fully yet I PASS EMISSIONS WITH FLYING COLORS with NO CAT cold air header full 2.5 inch exhaust skunk 2 intake manifold and throttle body built head I remember watching something a long time ago that Honda actually built their cars to run clean enough that you didn't need catalytic converters that was the thing that America wanted to do and Honda referred to catalytic converters as putting scrubbers on your exhaust for cars that pollute a lot to try to cover up the fact that the American cars polluted a lot instead of just building an engine that ran clean enough that you didn't need one Sorry for the long comment dude
The dragonfire distributor is manufactured by AIP Electronics. The guts of their standard replacement distributors are identical to the dragonfire units, just without the super loud red powder coat on the body. I have confirmed this directly with the manufacturer. The quality is outstanding. I've run one for several years.
I had one of the AIP Electronics distributors on my daily driver EF. It lasted 3 years/64K miles, then it failed and left me stranded on the side of the highway.
I’m impressed. For anyone who’s tried, keeping a full size radiator AND a fan AND A/C on a b series swap with a header is NOT easy on an EF. It gets TIGHT. I’m saving this video because I’m going to try that plm header.
To replace the distributor you can go with a DigiDizzy that is a full one replacement for the oem distributor with all new parts. If not, you can go with the OEM one and a COP convertion kit to remove all the components of the distributor but just leave the sensors in place for the signals that the ECU needs.
@@cliby25 Well if there are some stand alone COP convertion kits that you don't need to modify the ECU but some others you need to actually add a board to the ECU, looking on their P72 they have a knock detection board that goes on the conector that is usually use for the COP boards. So they could use the Hondata one that is external and it connects to the S300 board, and just remove the coil, ignition module and rotor from the distributor. The main drawback is price, not sure if they have a built limit on their builds, I don't think so but that might be a good option to ensure they have a good spark if they want to push the rpm limit.
Rebuilt my distributer a year ago and OEM parts were very hard to come up with. I did it, but don't think I will be able in the future. It is so great to see the options - great community!
I love watching videos like this, and even though I know TH-cam pays the bills and you have sponsors, I would love it if you popped a price up in the corner every time you said “we went ahead and ordered up a blah, blah, blah”. I built a 1989 CR-X Si with USDM B16B for my son during Covid. With lots of parts from jdmlegends and other sources like the ones you used, a garage restoration was over $35k all in. A lot of young guys watching your videos think “affordable” means cheap and it REALLY isn’t so it would be a good reality check.
Love the little funny bits you throw in, got me chuckling every Saturday morning. Thanks so much for this quality content and your enthusiasm for these vintage Hondas 😄
For Dizzies I've always had good luck rebuilding them with some of the sensors from the cheap ones. Basically use as much as OEM as possible. Had to do this recently with a EG civic speed sensor. Kept the OE housing, and swapped the guts because the chinesium housing cracked.
Love the editing on this one, especially the quick intro with the history of the project make it joyful to watch. I also love the longer sections with wrenching and music. Keep it up like that!
Aww man. TH-cam haven't been giving me notifs of new Speed Academy videos for a while now, and I was so happy to see you guys still provide the best automotive content in TH-cam! I have lots of catching up with your videos and I'm 100% okay with that.
The 90's and early 2000's represent peak Honda high revving N/A VTEC development. What an era. It was an amazing time to have been part of the car scene here in Toronto during that era. I was VW guy but appreciated what Honda was putting out. Many of the muscle car guys at the time weren't to familiar with VTEC. The looks on some guys faces when they first heard a DC2 ITR with an AEM cold air hit its VTEC crossover was priceless. Love your content. Keep up the amazing work!
Must say one of videos i have been waiting. I had a EF a few years back that needed a engine swap but never found good hearted pips to help with build. Atleast i can see another EF happy and in great hands ..sounds amazing .💨💨👍🏻👍🏻😇
so glad i watched this. I thought I was the only one having so much trouble with these distributors. Glad for the comment section and I'll be looking into COP and AIP
With regards to the drilling, i found holding the battery against your body to stop the drill ripping around, it helps the drill break through the point that makes it grab cause it keeps the bit rotating instead of spinning the drill itself
I’ve been running an O’reilly distributor on my daily driven B Series for almost 3 years now. Recently had the CKP inside the distributor fail but was able to easily exchange it with the lifetime warranty.
I'm on a "rebuilt in Japan" reman distributor. I'm not sure where they source the parts but it has been solid for over a year and has a warranty. Obviously easier to get since I'm in Japan, but these might be the mid price option even including international shipping. They're more expensive than used OEM or new Rock Auto but cheaper than DigiDizzy, which is probably what I would have done with better timing and more money in the bank. Probably the route I'll go if this one dies. Keep up the good work - it's coming together amazingly!
Great, fun and informative vid as usual. 🙂One thing does puzzle me(and you guys wouldn't be the only ones to do it) ; why use a B16 instead of a B18? They're the same size dimension wise(VTEC = Very Tall Engine Construction😁), so face the same issues or not with installation. However the b18 has more usable power and torque and the R versions are going to be more common too. Back in the day I had a loaner EK9 R for a while and yes it was a screamer with a great chassis, but tbh(and IMHO of course) screamer summed it up. You had to drive the bag out of it to get anything but noise and too often it fell outside of the higher cam range between gears. It was just harder to exploit that great chassis. That same car blew its engine(wasn't me😀) and the owner got a b18c and gearbox and dropped that in(this was before K swaps being a thing and because it was cheaper than a rebuild, the B16 was essentially thrown away. How times change). It transformed the car. It was much easier to live with as a daily type car and noticeably perkier and easier to exploit when 'pressing on'.
These guys put out the highest quality and entertaining car videos. No bro vibes like Donut and all the other channels. I only trust these guys, AHC and vtec academy.
I had the same type exhaust in my civic. The AC line touched the headers while driving and blew refrigerant and ac oil everywhere. It was quite a shock 😂
Most people are ditching the distributor all together since there are kits out there to convert to COP with a factory ecu, like burton racing, or digidizzy
Would highly recommend ditching the OE cross member in favour of an Innovative traction bar, it massively improves the front end response on the EF and gives a ton more clearance
Well I don’t think it helps the OBD2 guys, but I went with a Cardone new distributor from RockAuto for my 94 GSR back about 10 years ago when the OEM unit went out. That new one went out after about 3 years, but it has a lifetime warranty so they sent another one right out. That one has been on the car for over 6 years now. I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend the Cardone distributor for OBD1 applications. Unfortunately I don’t think they make an OBD2 version, and the other ones on RA for OBD2 VTEC engines only have a 12 month warranty.
The EF SiR was my dream car back in 90 .... but never went for it. Maybe bcoz my mom got the 88' sedan and my sister got the 90' Civic Profile and 60% of my mates got the EF SiR. I went for a 86' G11 Daihatsu Charade Turbo with DeTomaso OEM bodykit ... engine swap to 92' G100 Daihatsu Charade GTti, CB90 Twin Cam 12valve DOHC Intercooler Turbo. It was my 1st ever factory turbo hot hatch.
Make sure you guys do an ek cluster swap to run an electronic VSS and have higher redline Tach etc, its real easy, I did one to my old ef over 10yrs ago
I had a cheap eBay short shifter in my fully built turbo EK coupe and I bought a K-tuned shifter, TOTALLY different and SO much better and more precise shifts with solid aluminum bushings.
open the valve to prime the hose with coolant while its pulling vacuum then close it as soon as the coolant reaches the tool. allow the vacuum to continue to pull. that way when you open the valve there is no air going into the system.
Dragon Fire Distributors sure sound gaudy from their brand name, but I can attest that they are very high quality! The only reason I even bought one is because they meet the IATF standard, in the first place. See, I had my OEM dizzy fail on me half a year ago, but I bit the bullet and bought one of theirs for my D-Series (booo, I know) and it works flawlessly. Apparently, their dizzies either work perfectly straight out of the box, or they are dead on arrival. So, if any of you buy one and it's DOA, just RMA it and you should have better luck with the next one.
For b series with working ac the best is the rmf narrow it’s the exhaust manifold that overheats the ac compressor the narrow collects towards the transmission to disperse heat away from the ac compressor
I find comfort in knowing that I’ve also got you guys every Saturday morning. The guys from Gears and Gasoline are wrapped up and unable to upload but my favorite Canadians made it!
Haha it’s like Saturday cartoons as an adult first G&G then SpeedAcademy. Definitely a great combo to start the weekend!
Exactly
Agreed, but I quit watching G&G years ago. Those dudes are trash.
@@phunkdoctaspock that’s to bad. Why do you say that?
Speed Academy and Crucible Coachworks make my Saturday mornings amazing.
I love that you guys use cats in your cars. Modern high flow cats are super efficient and lose little to no power. Plus it keeps the feds happy haha
Agree!
They also turn gases which are not great for humans but basically harmless to the climate... into yet more carbon dioxide. Which is harmless to humans, but, um, yeah... 😂
Thinking about all the channels I just realized this is a perfect blend of donut and vtec academy. High production and personality meets actual knowledge and skill.
Hope you guys hit 1m subs soon, you deserve it
There content is original, not just a clip show basically from other people like Donut tends to be.
Their*@@TougeSolo
@@earnestbunbury2103*They're
The Digidizzy is a great aftermarket coil on plug setup!
over where I'm at, we go for K20 oem COP when ditching the old distributor, from b16 to 4g63T and watever in between
Keeping the CAT on a Honda engine is NECESSARY to avoid rasp! Most people don’t know or believe it but I’m a firm believer in it.
Yes and no....... that is definitely true and the easiest way to avoid it but...... CHECK THIS OUT It also depends if you're doing a street build or track build.... I built over 30 Hondas since the early 2000s and....
I will say that now that we don't have cat on my built 95 Civic coupe or my 04 Honda Accord V6 6-speed manual coupe hfp Honda factory performance package with full bolt ons tuned
IF YOU'RE GOING TO DELETE THE CAT...... The key is to getting a really really nice good custom exhaust built or even something like a yanaka exhaust may help keep some of that rasp down BUT A VIBRANT RESONATOR IS A MUST!!
Now it's something like the V6 Accord you have to go no cats if you want to make power because they come with three cats from the factory and when you do the pre-cat deletes and then the j pipe that deletes the third cat it's basically like a header when you do all three of those things it really makes a significant difference in power compared to running high flows or keeping the cats on
Now on my 95 Civic coupe when it was a fully built all motor d-series pushing almost 200 hp at the wheels yes I know it's crazy most people don't do that with an all motor d-series but believe me it is possible (seen people push even higher) that car I don't necessarily have to delete the cat but when I was running the d-series build every little bit counted especially when I came to my 4-1 header and custom exhaust was trying to get every horsepower I got out of that motor
Now that it is and all motor k series with a k24 block and a K20 head I don't necessarily have to go decatted header but it didn't make a little bit more on the dyno with it that way
The main way I say to do it is if you're going to run without a cat you're going to have a header and you're going to have a full exhaust the best way to avoid rasp is to get yourself a nice custom exhaust build and then do a really good vibrant resonator promise you that thing won't be raspy if you do it right
But if you're just looking for a simple day-to-day build like maybe and take it as exhaust on it then yeah keep the cat man you avoid the rest and it's a lot easier that way
I just don't mind taking it off because we took away emissions here in Washington state a few years back when we met the requirements of the EPA
And honestly my 95 Civic coup e when it was still a semi Built d-series not even fully yet I PASS EMISSIONS WITH FLYING COLORS with NO CAT cold air header full 2.5 inch exhaust skunk 2 intake manifold and throttle body built head I remember watching something a long time ago that Honda actually built their cars to run clean enough that you didn't need catalytic converters that was the thing that America wanted to do and Honda referred to catalytic converters as putting scrubbers on your exhaust for cars that pollute a lot to try to cover up the fact that the American cars polluted a lot instead of just building an engine that ran clean enough that you didn't need one
Sorry for the long comment dude
The dragonfire distributor is manufactured by AIP Electronics. The guts of their standard replacement distributors are identical to the dragonfire units, just without the super loud red powder coat on the body. I have confirmed this directly with the manufacturer. The quality is outstanding. I've run one for several years.
Do you have a link to the non performance ones. I hate the red color and want a more oem look.
I had one of the AIP Electronics distributors on my daily driver EF. It lasted 3 years/64K miles, then it failed and left me stranded on the side of the highway.
@@speedacademyhave you ever considered coil on plug? @Digidizzy has a good one ☝️
@@speedacademy yep, I'll send it to you.
@camerongrady580 the aip dohc vtec distributors are out of stock
That exhaust note is a breath of fresh air compared to what I'm used to hearing xD
Digidizzy for the distributor!
Comment I was looking for
Was about to suggest the same! 👌🏽
I’m impressed. For anyone who’s tried, keeping a full size radiator AND a fan AND A/C on a b series swap with a header is NOT easy on an EF. It gets TIGHT. I’m saving this video because I’m going to try that plm header.
I run the plm header with my b16b swap and a full size skunk 2 rad with a slim fan.
the digidizzy conversion is a really cool option. It converts to coil on plug
Digidizzy is an excellent solution for a distributor… not the cheapest solution, but of all the cop kits it’s probably the best…
To replace the distributor you can go with a DigiDizzy that is a full one replacement for the oem distributor with all new parts. If not, you can go with the OEM one and a COP convertion kit to remove all the components of the distributor but just leave the sensors in place for the signals that the ECU needs.
I was wondering why they didn't do the C.O.P setup.
@@cliby25 Well if there are some stand alone COP convertion kits that you don't need to modify the ECU but some others you need to actually add a board to the ECU, looking on their P72 they have a knock detection board that goes on the conector that is usually use for the COP boards.
So they could use the Hondata one that is external and it connects to the S300 board, and just remove the coil, ignition module and rotor from the distributor.
The main drawback is price, not sure if they have a built limit on their builds, I don't think so but that might be a good option to ensure they have a good spark if they want to push the rpm limit.
Rebuilt my distributer a year ago and OEM parts were very hard to come up with. I did it, but don't think I will be able in the future. It is so great to see the options - great community!
@@NightWalkerasd yes I agree with u on the build budget. Thought of it after the comment. Thanks for the info same way
I love watching videos like this, and even though I know TH-cam pays the bills and you have sponsors, I would love it if you popped a price up in the corner every time you said “we went ahead and ordered up a blah, blah, blah”. I built a 1989 CR-X Si with USDM B16B for my son during Covid. With lots of parts from jdmlegends and other sources like the ones you used, a garage restoration was over $35k all in. A lot of young guys watching your videos think “affordable” means cheap and it REALLY isn’t so it would be a good reality check.
perfect timing for morning car-toons
In my 30s, and have had a 90s civic every 3 years or so since I learned to drive. I think I'm due again.
The winter conditions are a real bummer 🇨🇦
Love the little funny bits you throw in, got me chuckling every Saturday morning. Thanks so much for this quality content and your enthusiasm for these vintage Hondas 😄
My version of Saturday morning ‘car’toons. Great combo on the EF.
It feels weird watching speed acadamy without watching gears and gasoline first.... My saturday is all thrown off... lol
same gears and gas didnt upload :(
Saturday morning car-tune inspiration. That’s what I need in my EF. Good job guys.
SAME✅
Absolutely love your channel guys. And I must say it’s so nice to see work done right!!! Keep up the awesome work Speed Academy
This series really has me yearning to drive my ITR. Spring can't come soon enough.
For Dizzies I've always had good luck rebuilding them with some of the sensors from the cheap ones. Basically use as much as OEM as possible. Had to do this recently with a EG civic speed sensor. Kept the OE housing, and swapped the guts because the chinesium housing cracked.
the ef is coming along nicely. sounds great too!
Just got with a digidizzy! It replaces the distributor for a digital one with coil packs!!!
Love the editing on this one, especially the quick intro with the history of the project make it joyful to watch. I also love the longer sections with wrenching and music. Keep it up like that!
Absolutely loving these Honda builds! ❤👍
Aww man. TH-cam haven't been giving me notifs of new Speed Academy videos for a while now, and I was so happy to see you guys still provide the best automotive content in TH-cam! I have lots of catching up with your videos and I'm 100% okay with that.
Coil on plug conversion boys! Cheaper, better looking unless you want the real OEM look.
Its the way to go but certainly not cheaper. Its double the price.
Can't wait to see it on the dyno. I would throw a LHT performance Jackson Supercharger kit with intercooler. It would fly. Great build Dave and Kevin.
The 90's and early 2000's represent peak Honda high revving N/A VTEC development. What an era. It was an amazing time to have been part of the car scene here in Toronto during that era. I was VW guy but appreciated what Honda was putting out. Many of the muscle car guys at the time weren't to familiar with VTEC. The looks on some guys faces when they first heard a DC2 ITR with an AEM cold air hit its VTEC crossover was priceless. Love your content. Keep up the amazing work!
Digidizzy distributor are also good which eliminates the old school style distributors.
Yyeesss drink my morning coffee with the Speed Academy boys!!
That B16B looks so good. I bet this will be really fun to drive. I need one!
Speed Academy is keeping my car dreams alive. This is the car ive wanted to build since HS. It sounds so damn nice
Must say one of videos i have been waiting. I had a EF a few years back that needed a engine swap but never found good hearted pips to help with build. Atleast i can see another EF happy and in great hands ..sounds amazing .💨💨👍🏻👍🏻😇
Thats stunning guys.... truly a lovely, clean build
Best Honda Civic swap 👌 I've ever seen 👏
I love that you guys keep cats on whenever you can.
Car sounds great and strong! Exhaust sounds really good ! Great job guys can’t wait to see what comes next !
Success! Congrats on the healthy motor! Cannot wait to hear it hit VTEC for the 1st time.
so glad i watched this. I thought I was the only one having so much trouble with these distributors. Glad for the comment section and I'll be looking into COP and AIP
Looking forward to the suspension work on this!! 👍🏽
With regards to the drilling, i found holding the battery against your body to stop the drill ripping around, it helps the drill break through the point that makes it grab cause it keeps the bit rotating instead of spinning the drill itself
Always appreciate the clean work you guys do 👏
I'm really happy to see you making the effort to have a catalytic converter on there.
I’ve been running an O’reilly distributor on my daily driven B Series for almost 3 years now. Recently had the CKP inside the distributor fail but was able to easily exchange it with the lifetime warranty.
I'm on a "rebuilt in Japan" reman distributor. I'm not sure where they source the parts but it has been solid for over a year and has a warranty. Obviously easier to get since I'm in Japan, but these might be the mid price option even including international shipping.
They're more expensive than used OEM or new Rock Auto but cheaper than DigiDizzy, which is probably what I would have done with better timing and more money in the bank. Probably the route I'll go if this one dies.
Keep up the good work - it's coming together amazingly!
That exhaust is so stealth looking! Great job, it’s alive!
Coil on plug conversion is the best dizzy replacement
this channel deserves more viewers!! absolutely loving this series, keep it up guys
I can hardly wait for the upcoming episodes, lovely cars, nice guys, great show.🙂
Another great episode gents! The car sound really good with that exhaust.
Great, fun and informative vid as usual. 🙂One thing does puzzle me(and you guys wouldn't be the only ones to do it) ; why use a B16 instead of a B18? They're the same size dimension wise(VTEC = Very Tall Engine Construction😁), so face the same issues or not with installation. However the b18 has more usable power and torque and the R versions are going to be more common too.
Back in the day I had a loaner EK9 R for a while and yes it was a screamer with a great chassis, but tbh(and IMHO of course) screamer summed it up. You had to drive the bag out of it to get anything but noise and too often it fell outside of the higher cam range between gears. It was just harder to exploit that great chassis. That same car blew its engine(wasn't me😀) and the owner got a b18c and gearbox and dropped that in(this was before K swaps being a thing and because it was cheaper than a rebuild, the B16 was essentially thrown away. How times change). It transformed the car. It was much easier to live with as a daily type car and noticeably perkier and easier to exploit when 'pressing on'.
There are some sweet coil-on-plug kits for B series!
You guys are killing it! Loving the series so far
Perfect time to convert it to coil plugs since your going boost. It will eliminate the issue of finding distributors as well
That thing sounds so lovely, I can't wait until we hear that thing open up!
You need a innovative cross member/ traction bar . Gives you way more header clearance
Digidizzy hands down #1 solution 💯💯💯
Sounds great! Can't wait to see these rip!
Looking forward to seeing it on the dyno, something so satisfying about hitting vtec in a B series EF
You could use DigiDizy as a plug and play alternative over the stock Distributor.
These guys put out the highest quality and entertaining car videos. No bro vibes like Donut and all the other channels. I only trust these guys, AHC and vtec academy.
I had the same type exhaust in my civic. The AC line touched the headers while driving and blew refrigerant and ac oil everywhere. It was quite a shock 😂
The exhaust sounds amazing !!
Thanks from Northern Ireland. Great channel guys, keep the Honda content coming
Most people are ditching the distributor all together since there are kits out there to convert to COP with a factory ecu, like burton racing, or digidizzy
Am I the only one who mistook EP3 which means episode 3 for the Civic EP3 😂 and got even more excited
B is the way. Vibrant dual tips looking right
The former Fastbrakes EF looks pretty good! Wish I'd been able to do the ITR engine swap into it, but it just wasn't in the cards.
I like plm headers definitely. But another good fitting header is the skunk 2 alpha header it has really good ground clearance on EF chassis.
Great content! The lack of quality b-series ignition (distributor) options is leading to more people converting to COP conversions these days.
Would highly recommend ditching the OE cross member in favour of an Innovative traction bar, it massively improves the front end response on the EF and gives a ton more clearance
Well I don’t think it helps the OBD2 guys, but I went with a Cardone new distributor from RockAuto for my 94 GSR back about 10 years ago when the OEM unit went out. That new one went out after about 3 years, but it has a lifetime warranty so they sent another one right out. That one has been on the car for over 6 years now. I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend the Cardone distributor for OBD1 applications. Unfortunately I don’t think they make an OBD2 version, and the other ones on RA for OBD2 VTEC engines only have a 12 month warranty.
The EF SiR was my dream car back in 90 .... but never went for it. Maybe bcoz my mom got the 88' sedan and my sister got the 90' Civic Profile and 60% of my mates got the EF SiR.
I went for a 86' G11 Daihatsu Charade Turbo with DeTomaso OEM bodykit ... engine swap to 92' G100 Daihatsu Charade GTti, CB90 Twin Cam 12valve DOHC Intercooler Turbo. It was my 1st ever factory turbo hot hatch.
Best auto channel on TH-cam, keep it guys!
Er...
Make sure you guys do an ek cluster swap to run an electronic VSS and have higher redline Tach etc, its real easy, I did one to my old ef over 10yrs ago
also maxspeeding rods has a $100 traction bar that fits great
The exhaust sounds so good
I know this build is run on a budget but a coil on plug conversion is worth it imo.
Didn't even mention the TE's. They look WAY better!
Choice plus from eBay works well/ installed five of them with zero issues
I had a cheap eBay short shifter in my fully built turbo EK coupe and I bought a K-tuned shifter, TOTALLY different and SO much better and more precise shifts with solid aluminum bushings.
Great episode!
I think that I'm digging on Vibrant to supply this car with a much better flowing and better sounding exhaust for this car! 😉😉😉
open the valve to prime the hose with coolant while its pulling vacuum then close it as soon as the coolant reaches the tool. allow the vacuum to continue to pull. that way when you open the valve there is no air going into the system.
DA works, you just have to get for a 92-93 GSR as it is VTEC and uses a B16.
The 92-93 gsr is actually a b17a
Awesome video! Excited to see this thing rip!
Dragon Fire Distributors sure sound gaudy from their brand name, but I can attest that they are very high quality! The only reason I even bought one is because they meet the IATF standard, in the first place. See, I had my OEM dizzy fail on me half a year ago, but I bit the bullet and bought one of theirs for my D-Series (booo, I know) and it works flawlessly.
Apparently, their dizzies either work perfectly straight out of the box, or they are dead on arrival. So, if any of you buy one and it's DOA, just RMA it and you should have better luck with the next one.
You should prime the coolant fill tube so it doesn’t suck in that air first
We do. Look closely its filled with water
Sounds good!!! I wanna hear that vtech hit!
My Saturday morning go to. I look forward to this.cheers
adding CAT to my stainless catless exhaust (b16a2) I've actually felt more torque in the basement
My Honda dream is to make the USDM EK Civic Si that Honda should have made. A hatch with all Si parts. This EF build would be next on my list.
You guys should buy the digidizzy, plug and play solution that switches to coil on plug even works with stock ecus
For b series with working ac the best is the rmf narrow it’s the exhaust manifold that overheats the ac compressor the narrow collects towards the transmission to disperse heat away from the ac compressor
Only Honda blue filters should be used on such a legendary engine !!!!
I always had good luck with any new Honda distributor made by Richporter technologies
So when/if you ever decide to sell this one - please let me know. Love the build so far, and looking forward to the EG build.
they should sell that exhaust system. Id buy one right now.