This video is now years old, but for the record, I don't think that this gentleman is using the Prussian Blue correctly. He said he was unfamiliar with it, having looked for his yellow gear-marking compound to do the same task. I do believe that this is meant to be applied to the valve uniformly and sparingly -- which he certainly did -- after which the valve is inserted in a stationary manner, not turned at all, and pulled out directly to reveal any points there may be where there is no contact between the valve and the seat. Rotating the valve distributes the Prussian Blue just like lapping distributes grinding compound, making it difficult to identify areas of concern. The wide spot looks narrower after the valve seat was touched up, which may suggest that the seat was also not precise but now is after the follow-up visit to the machine shop. I'd guess that the valve was coated and turned in the seat like it was for the previous effort. The valves aren't squeaking, and there's no apparent reason to assume the valve guides are worn and allowed a valve wobble great enough to produce that pattern, so I think this is the result of the valve being turned. a recessed area on the valve surface, or removal of the valve that wasn't directly up and out with no twisting.
That is why every valve job I did I always took the time and lapped them in. Did the machine shop check your recession? It also appears in the video that the seat is contacting the valve in the wrong spot. You will have a problem with that valve down the road. Looks like the liners were installed nicely.
Yep. I'd be taking it to a different shop. Still look off. Still has that slight wobble too. I wonder if that valve is showing that same pattern in other seats. It would be "fine" if you're selling it, but for long term use. No way. Probably the same machine shop that disregarded and left the rags in the oil holes. ugg
I found this stuff in my grandpa’s workshop drawers (he passed away awhile ago but I’m trying to rescue as much of his tools and stuff as possible since I have a relative that wants to throw it all away which drives me insane) I got excited when I saw “Prussian Blue” thinking it was paint. Then I saw “non-drying”, which made me wonder where would you use this for? So this is exactly what I thought it would do but I’m not sure if I have a use for it. I wonder if I can somehow add something to it so I can use it as a paint, but that’s gonna require lots of research. I have several tubes of the stuff.
As a fellow artistic soul, I commend you for both your curiosity and your intolerance of your relative who appears to be one of those "It's junk, just throw it out" types. They infuriate me, they're everywhere, and they sometimes have the ability to make life miserable. Through a heartless bureaucratic loophole I was evicted from my apartment of 12 years, about 14 months ago. I have hoarding tendencies, and the problem wasn't appropriately addressed. As a result I'm now without many items of great sentimental value, and some of a possible monetary value that means nothing to me in contrast with the historical, heirloom worth of absolutely irreplaceable things. Onward! : ] I watched this video because I'm looking for an example of proper use of this task-specific 'Prussian Blue'. I presume that this is oil-based to make it 'non-drying'. I have a tube but haven't read the ingredient list. Treat it like you would an oil paint and see what happens. ; ] Make sure you get all of your Gramp's stuff. Let your relative's garbage be your gold. ; ]
Just so you know some of those balances the blue is a little thick. And FYI the cummins does not have a valve rotator. So they don’t rotate while running. Also before you do that you should always check that the valves are true.
AHHHH. Here in Australia I have a ford repair manual (printed by ford) from the 90s and it mentions Prussian Blue when doing valves. Now I know it's still around.
its fun stuff, try putting some on the bottom a your friends car door handles, and stand back and watch the show. they wont be able to figure out where the blue on there hands is coming from.
Is it me, or are the stock seats drilled out and press ins installed? I bought a brand new one-ringed head on eBay and one of the oEM cast hardened valve seats are pitted from a casting void, thus I need to replace it. Any suggestions?
I don't think I would use that head as is, I would have to look at a factory Cummins head again but I suspect the seats are not ground into the cast iron but instead are inserts. I think first step would be to return it to seller, if that doesn't work then maybe check with a machine shop to see what it would cost to have that seat machined and have an insert installed, assuming your there is enough cast iron there to have it machined for such.
If the SEAT is not properly centered with the guide it will show an irregular wiped path on the SEAT. That's not your issue at all! If the VALVE is bent or slightly warped or cut improperly, it will clean a perfect path on the seat but the valve "being bent" will rub on one side of it which is what is seen to be your issue. The way to correct this is replace the valve or grind the valve to center up the grind on it.
if it was the valve seat the valve would be wiping a clean line around the entire valve surface but the seat would have an irregular wiped path being off to one side so the seelat would have a clean wipe favoring the opposite of the side it is offset to.. that looked like a bent valve that maybe he reground the face to center the valve, even if it was slightly bent or due to a miss grind... that would be the ONLY way my brain can make sense of this correction is to address the valve. If it was a miss cut seat, the uneven results would show up on the seat example if the seat was off to the left, the right side of SEAT would be cleanly wiped while the right side of seat would show blue. NOT the valve face if your turning the valve 360° while seated and get your result its the valve or the grind on the valve
Thanks for the info now one more thang on a 12 valve same engine if I redo head I'll have to rebuild the bottom part cause if like gasburners if I don't it may blow out rings is that right?
@@rickstanphill6945 no the top end won’t make the bottom end blow. Usually a worn engine will have a little blow by but not excessive. Mine has 260k on 2000 and has no blow by when hot.
@Budget Boost DIY valve seat contact width and check the valve margin size also note that the seat well be wider when lapped or ground too much and will effect the valve height. Cracks are a thing too look for in the valves or seats...
Been a while but I think in a later video I took a questionable valve back out and turned it by hand with valve grinding compound, If I remember right it looked much better after, and at even a later time, I did not make a video but I removed all the valves to seat them with valve grinding compound.
I have a ford manual printed by ford that talks about using Prussian Blue for valves. If a machine shop is paid to do it, why should he play around with valve grinding compound for half an hour.....
Good morning spudly1234567I don't mind, it got a comment thread started and he means no harm and he also watched my video, it's 4:32 am for me so thanks spudly for being one of the first to watch early this morning
![Save Money And Lap Your Own Valves! [Measured Results]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TPCrR-R7cTY/mqdefault.jpg)
This video is now years old, but for the record, I don't think that this gentleman is using the Prussian Blue correctly. He said he was unfamiliar with it, having looked for his yellow gear-marking compound to do the same task. I do believe that this is meant to be applied to the valve uniformly and sparingly -- which he certainly did -- after which the valve is inserted in a stationary manner, not turned at all, and pulled out directly to reveal any points there may be where there is no contact between the valve and the seat. Rotating the valve distributes the Prussian Blue just like lapping distributes grinding compound, making it difficult to identify areas of concern.
The wide spot looks narrower after the valve seat was touched up, which may suggest that the seat was also not precise but now is after the follow-up visit to the machine shop. I'd guess that the valve was coated and turned in the seat like it was for the previous effort. The valves aren't squeaking, and there's no apparent reason to assume the valve guides are worn and allowed a valve wobble great enough to produce that pattern, so I think this is the result of the valve being turned. a recessed area on the valve surface, or removal of the valve that wasn't directly up and out with no twisting.
That is why every valve job I did I always took the time and lapped them in. Did the machine shop check your recession? It also appears in the video that the seat is contacting the valve in the wrong spot. You will have a problem with that valve down the road. Looks like the liners were installed nicely.
Yep. I'd be taking it to a different shop. Still look off. Still has that slight wobble too.
I wonder if that valve is showing that same pattern in other seats.
It would be "fine" if you're selling it, but for long term use. No way.
Probably the same machine shop that disregarded and left the rags in the oil holes. ugg
scrimmy6969 I ended up lapping the valve in question and it turned out nice, it is a planned video after the next one
I found this stuff in my grandpa’s workshop drawers (he passed away awhile ago but I’m trying to rescue as much of his tools and stuff as possible since I have a relative that wants to throw it all away which drives me insane) I got excited when I saw “Prussian Blue” thinking it was paint. Then I saw “non-drying”, which made me wonder where would you use this for?
So this is exactly what I thought it would do but I’m not sure if I have a use for it.
I wonder if I can somehow add something to it so I can use it as a paint, but that’s gonna require lots of research. I have several tubes of the stuff.
As a fellow artistic soul, I commend you for both your curiosity and your intolerance of your relative who appears to be one of those "It's junk, just throw it out" types. They infuriate me, they're everywhere, and they sometimes have the ability to make life miserable. Through a heartless bureaucratic loophole I was evicted from my apartment of 12 years, about 14 months ago. I have hoarding tendencies, and the problem wasn't appropriately addressed. As a result I'm now without many items of great sentimental value, and some of a possible monetary value that means nothing to me in contrast with the historical, heirloom worth of absolutely irreplaceable things. Onward! : ]
I watched this video because I'm looking for an example of proper use of this task-specific 'Prussian Blue'. I presume that this is oil-based to make it 'non-drying'. I have a tube but haven't read the ingredient list. Treat it like you would an oil paint and see what happens. ; ] Make sure you get all of your Gramp's stuff. Let your relative's garbage be your gold. ; ]
Just so you know some of those balances the blue is a little thick. And FYI the cummins does not have a valve rotator. So they don’t rotate while running. Also before you do that you should always check that the valves are true.
When they bounce when they hit the seat ,ya know yer purty close ;-)
yes sir! also tap on the circumference with your finger, if you hear a ticking noise, it ain't seated.
AHHHH. Here in Australia I have a ford repair manual (printed by ford) from the 90s and it mentions Prussian Blue when doing valves. Now I know it's still around.
its fun stuff, try putting some on the bottom a your friends car door handles, and stand back and watch the show. they wont be able to figure out where the blue on there hands is coming from.
Is it me, or are the stock seats drilled out and press ins installed?
I bought a brand new one-ringed head on eBay and one of the oEM cast hardened valve seats are pitted from a casting void, thus I need to replace it. Any suggestions?
I don't think I would use that head as is, I would have to look at a factory Cummins head again but I suspect the seats are not ground into the cast iron but instead are inserts. I think first step would be to return it to seller, if that doesn't work then maybe check with a machine shop to see what it would cost to have that seat machined and have an insert installed, assuming your there is enough cast iron there to have it machined for such.
If the SEAT is not properly centered with the guide it will show an irregular wiped path on the SEAT. That's not your issue at all!
If the VALVE is bent or slightly warped or cut improperly, it will clean a perfect path on the seat but the valve "being bent" will rub on one side of it which is what is seen to be your issue. The way to correct this is replace the valve or grind the valve to center up the grind on it.
if it was the valve seat the valve would be wiping a clean line around the entire valve surface but the seat would have an irregular wiped path being off to one side so the seelat would have a clean wipe favoring the opposite of the side it is offset to.. that looked like a bent valve that maybe he reground the face to center the valve, even if it was slightly bent or due to a miss grind... that would be the ONLY way my brain can make sense of this correction is to address the valve.
If it was a miss cut seat, the uneven results would show up on the seat example if the seat was off to the left, the right side of SEAT would be cleanly wiped while the right side of seat would show blue. NOT the valve face if your turning the valve 360° while seated and get your result its the valve or the grind on the valve
At 4:10 what is that port all the way to the left of the head? Is that for the thermostat?🙃
Yes sir it is
Can you replace valve stems and seats in a 89 12 valve cummins
I’m thinking not sense they have to be machined once there installed
Thanks for the info now one more thang on a 12 valve same engine if I redo head I'll have to rebuild the bottom part cause if like gasburners if I don't it may blow out rings is that right?
@@rickstanphill6945 no the top end won’t make the bottom end blow. Usually a worn engine will have a little blow by but not excessive. Mine has 260k on 2000 and has no blow by when hot.
i still hand Lapp mine cant beat it lol
@Budget Boost DIY valve seat contact width and check the valve margin size also note that the seat well be wider when lapped or ground too much and will effect the valve height. Cracks are a thing too look for in the valves or seats...
I would have took that head back again I don't not see any seating on that valve you took back
Been a while but I think in a later video I took a questionable valve back out and turned it by hand with valve grinding compound, If I remember right it looked much better after, and at even a later time, I did not make a video but I removed all the valves to seat them with valve grinding compound.
Geez, these backyarders. Quit screwing around and lap them with 400 grit. You will be in for a surprize.
I have a ford manual printed by ford that talks about using Prussian Blue for valves. If a machine shop is paid to do it, why should he play around with valve grinding compound for half an hour.....
First 😎
Good morning spudly1234567I don't mind, it got a comment thread started and he means no harm and he also watched my video, it's 4:32 am for me so thanks spudly for being one of the first to watch early this morning
And good morning to you as well EL DIESTRO DIY