You'll never stop adding to the stories... every journey is an adventure with an old Series 3- proper memory machines! After a decade of ownership, I can assure you it does get easier but there are very much easier vehicles to own. I would urge you to ignore the cosmetic issues to start with and get it mechanically/ structurally sorted first, it's so tempting to just get bolting stuff on. You'll also find ditching the hard top for a good canvas tilt will go a long way to making the vehicle weather tight and they are just so much better with the soft top- winter and summer! Looking at that chassis corrosion- I would suggest going as far as you can with stripping the old underseal before spending any money- from experience, you may be in for a shock. Have fun, I look forward to following along.. mine was in very similar condition when purchased- just about MOTable and I learnt so much, quickly..
Thanks Steamwally, I have been watching your videos for some time. You are right the canvas looks great and it made WRD look awesome. I was under Bob last night and found a few more holes in the chassis! Bit worrying and it's been patched pretty poorly in places. I've been getting ahead of myself this week with thinking about all the bits I can buy but your advice is hugely appreciated and I will focus on mechanicals and structure first. Get the brakes sorted and then I think it's onto chassis...I may have bitten off a little too much but it will just have to be a longer term project than I originally thought. Thanks for watching and commenting, you are a Series legend!
i think i may have been one of the commenters in the s3 fb group, saying if its not leaking its not a series land rover XD look like a fun project. glad you got it back all the security is just part n parcel of owning these old beautys, one of the best things i did to mine was sound deaden then with closed cell foam insulation and covered with 4 way stretch carpet made it look a bit more inviting inside.
Ah, I used to have a series 3 109, also ex MOD, 2.25 is an excellent engine, if quite juicy. Good luck with the project! If you need any help, always feel free to ask. Sam
Hey Sam, thanks for watching. Been enjoying your Austin van adventure!! Bob should be a good money pit but will be worth it in the end I am sure. May see you at Rustival this weekend, Dave
@@rustenuts Land rovers do have a habit of making your wallet light!, but they do it in an enjoyable way!! I we be at Rustival, not in the Austin sadly, hope to see you there!
Interesting to see this video, thought I recognised the registration, and then realised that I looked at this Land Rover recently when it was for sale. I ended up going for a 109 Safari I found. Keep the updates coming.
LPG tanks are stored under pressure - basically the same as a bbq gas bottle. Inside the tank the gas is a liquid. freezing isn't really an issue (says an Australian...). The problem of freezing comes when the liquid is expanded in the evaporator (the round thing under the bonnet on the left wing) and into the mixer (the bit on the carby). That's why you should start on petrol and convert over at running temperature, so the coolant can warm the evaporator, and the engine itself (and therefore the mixer) is also warm.
Thanks for the insight. I didn't know the science behind starting on petrol so that's helpful. LPG is phasing out here in the UK with more focus on EV. Shame really, makes some of the "gas guzzlers" a bit more viable to run
@@rustenuts There's still plenty of LPG here (we were pioneers of it back in the 70's), but you see a lot less cars on it these days. Partly because fuel injected cars are quite economical and complex, and partly because it's now half the price of petrol, when it used to be a quarter or less back in the day, so it's not so economical to be bothered with. It might also have something to do with our market being dominated by Turbo Diesel Utes (diesel LPG has never really caught on here). And this despite the modern injection LPG able to be tuned for more power than the petrol equivalent (the reverse is true for your system).
The spring looks weak, but no idea what it's supposed to be. If you restore it to original military look, you can rent it out to movie producers for use as a prop :) that would be cool
It does look weak, I don't think there should be a spring there but suspect its been used to help the throttle return. I will strip the carb off and have a look once some of the other bits are done. Great idea with getting him out there for movies, that would be very very cool!
The throttle linkage should go direct to the carb on a little swivel/ gimbal. Perhaps the height change of the carb with the lpg conversion caused an issue.
Thanks, the worry is the stuff you can't see under the underseal and the hidden bits of the bulkhead. Fingers crossed it's all fixable. I have had a good go at the chassis with a screwdriver and it all looks patchable down there. Yeah I'm not convinced with the LPG system. Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
Ah I seen your stolen post on youtube,so glad you got it back! I'm just down the road from you (Kingstanding) and also have a Series 3 (88) that is LPG converted. The LPG has saved me a fortune over the years but its not without its troubles. I have never had issues with cold needing insulation abound the tank. In fact It probably runs just as well if not better on LPG in the cold!
Also I think I have some good 109 outriggers that will clean up in the garage that I got with a joblot of other s3 chassis bit's. If your on a budget I don't mind digging around and seeing what I have, 👍
Thanks for the comment. It's great to know some other owners locally especially as you have experience with running LPG. I'm definitely going to strip back all the lagging around the tank and the wood off of the side walls. I need to get underneath and make a list of all the chassis sections that I'm going to need. Thanks for offering up the help of your parts department 😉👍
@@rustenuts 👍 It's always good to know local owners,I had my landy since 17 (34 now) and would of been lost without the local club (now defunct). Most the people I knew locally have given up on landys, it can be a lonely hobby 😂.. Incidentally I have a rotten moggy In the garage too - I think that's why TH-cam algorithm popped up you channel
I have a similiar age 109 petrol used by the Indonesian military, but clearly more a civilian model. The lugging when you open the throttle may be sticky advance weights, the Lucas distributors are well known for it. Lack of advance will bog it, then the weights move and you are off. Lots of work for you to get on with, as always the condition of the bulkhead is more of a concern than the chassis holes. Doors are easy to change. I have leaks on my front tank and can get my hand inside thanks to that huge filler, still waiting to find the right putty but defo worth a go. Hand painting with the right paint and brush is perfectly permissible for a Series. You will find coach building enamel was hand painted back in the day. The top looks like it may have holes in it, they can and do fit with the right gaskets. It needs to come off and you need to strip it all back to assess condition rather than add bathroom sealant. That LPG tank is a waste of space and very badly fitted. Depending on which tanks youhave replacing the rear tank with one makes more sense. The front tank has a good range anyway if not leaking and there is room for one on both sides. And that LPG conversion under the hood looks home made, no way you should have a hole in the bonnet when a modified air horn would not be as tall.
Lpg was the first thing we removed, it turns out it also did some damage to the engine but you will see that in our other videos. As this is a FFR the ignition system was all shielded so difficult to find issues. We have now progressed to a full restore to its original Military condition. hope you enjoy the journey of BOB.
Hi its original body colour from the factory was probably bronze green . They gain NATO green or camouflage or sand /white ( peace keeping ) or winter deployment .once they reach there units .Your probably find as you sand though the layers of paint that it’s history will be revealed by the colours you find ? A word of warning on this wear a mask as radar reflective paint is cardiogenic ! So be careful and check out what you need to do to keep safe ! Your vehicle is a FFR that’s fitted for Radio judging by the box on the wing and that huge alternator . Should be 24volt if it’s not been converted to 12V other FFR bits are more blades on the fan and an oil cooler in front of the radiator. This was so it could be run to charge the batteries whilst parked up . All could be changed since it left the forces . Its ID plate and military reg could still be on the side of the seat box ( drivers side normally ) you can if you want to trace its military history with its old reg . I think this is though the Royal logistics corps. A search on google will probably provide how you do this . The roof rack could have been fitted during its time in the military as some were ? If it has military green paint on that would be a clue ? Not sure about the spring on the carb as all my LR have been diesel. I do know that an extra return spring were a requirement on LR used when doing off road trials but most people use SWB for trailing. I’m sure someone will know more than me on that . Good luck with your LR I look forward to following your progress .
Hey, thanks for watching. I think this is the military setup. It's got two tanks, one under each seat with a switch on the seat box to control where it draws the fuel from. Both the bloomin things leak though 😂
You could fit either a standard SWB or LWB tank but would need to modify the LH outer wing. The cost of parts would possibly be the same as a new military style tank though..
I saw your post on Facebook about the theft 😬, try and get a different tank fof the LPG, ice got the donut one on my l322 ( you could fit it in the spare wheel pocket behind the drivers seat ?
Great suggestion Tone, the donut one would be ideal. I'll strip all that wood back and see what I'm dealing with. Guessing it's a torpedo tank under there. Thanks for commenting 👍🏻
Just a tip, steering locks are easily defeated, and those cylinder locks on the pedals are not much of a challenge either. Granted, in your yard pinned in by the other car it's a lot less of a factor but still.
Thanks for the pointers. I've got a couple of other plans for security but at the moment the cars on the drive are the last line of defence. Hopefully they don't just smash through them 😅
@@rustenuts Just park a tiny bit more forward and to the left so it's closing off more space. They'd need a lot more of a running start to make it through and in any case it'll do so much damage as to not even be worth it to them.
Yeah defo do everything you can to secure it. A modern cordless angle grinder would probably have those locks off in a minute or two. Noisy, yes, but criminals are very brazen these days.
Hi as an owner of a series 3 109" ex military canvas tilt the door locks are no use it comes with a kill switch key in the front which is isolating the electrics, slows a thief right down, if it's not in the garage, if it didn't have the switch, I'd run an ignition coil wire inside to a hidden switch.
This is the correct carb from what I can see, a Zenith 361V. Originall fitment from landrover. They can be problematic so I would buy a used genuine one as spare and rebuild it (I've done a few they're pretty simple). If the throttle spindle is warn and you don't have a lathe get a professional to re bush the spindle hole. I recommend fuggles Fettling highly for this service. A good carb in top condition will transform the motor 🤙
Also the reason it looks different is because there is an LPG 'mixer' sat on top of the original carburettor. It's probably secured with little grub screws but it is a separate part to the carb and not a integral part of some special lpg carb 👌
@@stuartsturgess2199 most of these basic types use a simple mixer (like a gas hob ring) and still rely on the origiona throttle body to control the flow of air/gas.. All very crude really 🤣 but it works
Looks like a great project. Will be following to see how it turns out. Have you checked with insurance company regarding the LPG conversion? I have heard that a lot of them can be reluctant to quote for it or put a big premium on it when its fitted on a classic vehicle.
The rear door will have got moisture into it and the aluminium will give electrons to the steel as it rusts. This causes holes in the door skin which makes the paint bubble and fall off. Could be a new door. Galvanized doors are better and I have seen companies sell the 3 doors as a set which is cheaper. Craddock can be expensive so do a price check first.
Thanks Mark, appreciate the advice. I had real about the chemical reaction between the two metals, a shame really as the back door is generally ok just that bottom section that's gone
@@rustenuts You can get new door skin but the delivery is expensive. Cheap if you can pick up from dealer. Look up Britannica restoration. It will help you alot.
@@rustenutsLook up SP Land Rover - they do replacement doors, frames or skins with galvanised steel that stops the problem for good. Once the bimetallic corrosion starts, it’s hard to stop. You can try removing the skin, clean up the skin and frame and prime them well, then reassemble with a plastic sheet barrier (tape works well). YRM Metal Solutions make good chassis and bulkhead parts, and some body parts too, for sensible prices. Genuine door tops shut properly, but those are cheap aftermarket replacements, probably Britpart (almost all rubbish), and their studs through the lower door frame are straight instead of bent at the correct angle. The vehicle would have been painted Olive Drab (not NATO, which was a slightly different shade that came later) at the factory (SIIs were Bronze Green and painted olive by the REME). It would have had a green soft top and fold-down tailgate. The rear door and hard top are modifications. Brake switches are fine if you buy genuine. Again, Britpart are hopeless. LPG is being phased out, so you’d probably be better off stripping out that whole system and those nasty side panel reinforcing strips. The spring on the carb is added - motor sports often require an additional spring on the accelerator linkage, but I don’t think it is the cause of the delay. A carb rebuild would be wise. They do get condensation inside, but yours is particularly bad. It’ll be the moisture in those rotten wooden panels. Be ware of John Craddock - they fib about stock, taking your money and then leaving you waiting for months without your parts. They are also expensive. Paddock are cheap and reliable, but their stock is almost all Britpart. PA Blanchard are more expensive but all genuine stock and have A LOT of stock of the special MoD parts. LR Centre in Speke are good.
Great video! Certainly lots to do and makes me feel a bit better about the one on my channel 😂 Will be watching with interest. I hadn't considered removing the roof rack on mine off, but might do that now. Was it definitely not military spec....?
Well if you went out a bought a really decent Land Rover then you wouldn’t have any content for your Chanel , I look forward to watching it get fixed 👍🏻
Before you go any further, stop. Howmuch did you pay for the vehicle? Work howmuch for tyres. Converting back to petrol. As the gas runs a bit dryer has it worn the engine? Do a compression test. The blue colour of the engine denotes a replacement engine by the army. Get a hammer and hit the chassis everywhere to find holes. Take the windscreen out and have a look at the top of the bulkhead. At the same time you can replace the seals between screen and body, top and bottom. A guy bought a series 3 lightweight and was chuffed but paid alot. He took it to a mechanic and asked howmuch to do it up. The list was eye wateringly expensive. The original colour was probably green bronze. The army were told to scuff the surface so that it did not reflect too much. Nato paint then came out which was matt. Infra red paint was supposed to be repainted app. every 5 years. It depends on the demob year of the vehicle. Did the previous owner have the original mod registration number recorded. This would help with its history.
Hi Mark, I paid 4.5 fornthe old chap. It's original military reg is 06HH02. I have gone pretty hard on the chassis with a screwdriver and found a few holes. It all looks repairable at the moment. The bulkhead is a worry but I'm hoping I can eek out a couple of years on it. I will do as you said with the screen. Makes sense to refresh the seals. Interesting about the bronze green, I love that colour. I would like to go to a canvas roof but it's so damn expensive and as you have alluded to weighing up the cost of all the work is very important. I think I know the lightweight story, the guy got quoted about 14k didn't he....I never saw it after that so I'm guessing he maybe cut his losses. I really appreciate your advice 👍
@@rustenuts Canvas looks great but it rains a lot here. I thought that in hindsight it would have been better to have found a rust bucket and bought a galvernised chasis etc. Or a vehicle that someone had partially restored. You end up with a vehicle that is sound and enjoyable because the problems have been deleted. Best wishes for the the task.
unfortunately it was all far too gone to leave it the roof isn't staying as its not in good shape and the tub was very bad. we are returning it to its original state as a military FFR. thank you for the comment though.
![ค้าง (STILL) - GEMINI [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ftxx3hk5vkU/mqdefault.jpg)
lets make bob great again
Bob WILL be great again!
Make Bob great again! Soft top is the way to go!
Thanks for stopping by Antimosh, and for introducing us to Mick!
You'll never stop adding to the stories... every journey is an adventure with an old Series 3- proper memory machines! After a decade of ownership, I can assure you it does get easier but there are very much easier vehicles to own. I would urge you to ignore the cosmetic issues to start with and get it mechanically/ structurally sorted first, it's so tempting to just get bolting stuff on. You'll also find ditching the hard top for a good canvas tilt will go a long way to making the vehicle weather tight and they are just so much better with the soft top- winter and summer!
Looking at that chassis corrosion- I would suggest going as far as you can with stripping the old underseal before spending any money- from experience, you may be in for a shock. Have fun, I look forward to following along.. mine was in very similar condition when purchased- just about MOTable and I learnt so much, quickly..
Thanks Steamwally, I have been watching your videos for some time. You are right the canvas looks great and it made WRD look awesome. I was under Bob last night and found a few more holes in the chassis! Bit worrying and it's been patched pretty poorly in places. I've been getting ahead of myself this week with thinking about all the bits I can buy but your advice is hugely appreciated and I will focus on mechanicals and structure first. Get the brakes sorted and then I think it's onto chassis...I may have bitten off a little too much but it will just have to be a longer term project than I originally thought. Thanks for watching and commenting, you are a Series legend!
Overall , as these things go , Bob is a very reasonable Project .
Thanks John, he certainly is a good project!
i think i may have been one of the commenters in the s3 fb group, saying if its not leaking its not a series land rover XD look like a fun project. glad you got it back all the security is just part n parcel of owning these old beautys, one of the best things i did to mine was sound deaden then with closed cell foam insulation and covered with 4 way stretch carpet made it look a bit more inviting inside.
😂 they certainly are loud inside!! Thanks for watching and commenting 😄
Ah, I used to have a series 3 109, also ex MOD, 2.25 is an excellent engine, if quite juicy. Good luck with the project! If you need any help, always feel free to ask.
Sam
Hey Sam, thanks for watching. Been enjoying your Austin van adventure!! Bob should be a good money pit but will be worth it in the end I am sure. May see you at Rustival this weekend, Dave
@@rustenuts Land rovers do have a habit of making your wallet light!, but they do it in an enjoyable way!!
I we be at Rustival, not in the Austin sadly, hope to see you there!
Interesting to see this video, thought I recognised the registration, and then realised that I looked at this Land Rover recently when it was for sale. I ended up going for a 109 Safari I found. Keep the updates coming.
I hope your Safari is going well! Bob is a bit rough but hopefully I can get him back to a safe and usable standard. Thanks for watching 👍🏻
Yes will definitely keep watching. I’m having a whole ton of electrical issues 🤣🤣🤣
LPG tanks are stored under pressure - basically the same as a bbq gas bottle. Inside the tank the gas is a liquid. freezing isn't really an issue (says an Australian...).
The problem of freezing comes when the liquid is expanded in the evaporator (the round thing under the bonnet on the left wing) and into the mixer (the bit on the carby).
That's why you should start on petrol and convert over at running temperature, so the coolant can warm the evaporator, and the engine itself (and therefore the mixer) is also warm.
Thanks for the insight. I didn't know the science behind starting on petrol so that's helpful. LPG is phasing out here in the UK with more focus on EV. Shame really, makes some of the "gas guzzlers" a bit more viable to run
@@rustenuts There's still plenty of LPG here (we were pioneers of it back in the 70's), but you see a lot less cars on it these days.
Partly because fuel injected cars are quite economical and complex, and partly because it's now half the price of petrol, when it used to be a quarter or less back in the day, so it's not so economical to be bothered with.
It might also have something to do with our market being dominated by Turbo Diesel Utes (diesel LPG has never really caught on here).
And this despite the modern injection LPG able to be tuned for more power than the petrol equivalent (the reverse is true for your system).
I've had landrovers for 30 years, Disklok and a clutch claw, they have broken into them but never got any of them away...
Thanks, I will look at getting a disklock. Shame we have to go to such lengths isn't it 😢
I haven't got that spring on mine, ive added a spring to the lower bar and fixed it to the inner wing. Returns the throttle nicely.
Great idea, when I get round to the carb I'll have a look and potentially do something similar. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment 😀
The spring looks weak, but no idea what it's supposed to be. If you restore it to original military look, you can rent it out to movie producers for use as a prop :) that would be cool
It does look weak, I don't think there should be a spring there but suspect its been used to help the throttle return. I will strip the carb off and have a look once some of the other bits are done. Great idea with getting him out there for movies, that would be very very cool!
The throttle linkage should go direct to the carb on a little swivel/ gimbal. Perhaps the height change of the carb with the lpg conversion caused an issue.
Thanks 👍🏻 I've found a tension spring snapped on the wing so hoping that makes a difference when replaced. If not the it's investigation time again.
Good luck. Doesn't look too bad. I'm considering buying a 'lemoner' one than that :-) Personally I'd ditch the LPG set-up.
Thanks, the worry is the stuff you can't see under the underseal and the hidden bits of the bulkhead. Fingers crossed it's all fixable. I have had a good go at the chassis with a screwdriver and it all looks patchable down there. Yeah I'm not convinced with the LPG system. Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻
Ah I seen your stolen post on youtube,so glad you got it back! I'm just down the road from you (Kingstanding) and also have a Series 3 (88) that is LPG converted. The LPG has saved me a fortune over the years but its not without its troubles. I have never had issues with cold needing insulation abound the tank. In fact It probably runs just as well if not better on LPG in the cold!
Also I think I have some good 109 outriggers that will clean up in the garage that I got with a joblot of other s3 chassis bit's. If your on a budget I don't mind digging around and seeing what I have, 👍
Thanks for the comment. It's great to know some other owners locally especially as you have experience with running LPG. I'm definitely going to strip back all the lagging around the tank and the wood off of the side walls. I need to get underneath and make a list of all the chassis sections that I'm going to need. Thanks for offering up the help of your parts department 😉👍
@@rustenuts 👍 It's always good to know local owners,I had my landy since 17 (34 now) and would of been lost without the local club (now defunct). Most the people I knew locally have given up on landys, it can be a lonely hobby 😂.. Incidentally I have a rotten moggy In the garage too - I think that's why TH-cam algorithm popped up you channel
Will miss seeing Oscar but this looks like a great project!
Oscar was great but Bob should be good fun! Thanks for the comment and watching 🙂
You should paint it NATO green and black. Just subscribed to your channel.
Thanks Matt, I think that's going to be the plan. Maybe a khaki canvas top as well 🤔 thanks for subscribing, it's really appreciated
Love Bob
Thanks! Bobs great 👍🏻
I have a similiar age 109 petrol used by the Indonesian military, but clearly more a civilian model.
The lugging when you open the throttle may be sticky advance weights, the Lucas distributors are well known for it. Lack of advance will bog it, then the weights move and you are off.
Lots of work for you to get on with, as always the condition of the bulkhead is more of a concern than the chassis holes. Doors are easy to change.
I have leaks on my front tank and can get my hand inside thanks to that huge filler, still waiting to find the right putty but defo worth a go.
Hand painting with the right paint and brush is perfectly permissible for a Series. You will find coach building enamel was hand painted back in the day.
The top looks like it may have holes in it, they can and do fit with the right gaskets. It needs to come off and you need to strip it all back to assess condition rather than add bathroom sealant.
That LPG tank is a waste of space and very badly fitted. Depending on which tanks youhave replacing the rear tank with one makes more sense. The front tank has a good range anyway if not leaking and there is room for one on both sides. And that LPG conversion under the hood looks home made, no way you should have a hole in the bonnet when a modified air horn would not be as tall.
Lpg was the first thing we removed, it turns out it also did some damage to the engine but you will see that in our other videos. As this is a FFR the ignition system was all shielded so difficult to find issues. We have now progressed to a full restore to its original Military condition. hope you enjoy the journey of BOB.
Hi its original body colour from the factory was probably bronze green . They gain NATO green or camouflage or sand /white ( peace keeping ) or winter deployment .once they reach there units .Your probably find as you sand though the layers of paint that it’s history will be revealed by the colours you find ? A word of warning on this wear a mask as radar reflective paint is cardiogenic ! So be careful and check out what you need to do to keep safe ! Your vehicle is a FFR that’s fitted for Radio judging by the box on the wing and that huge alternator . Should be 24volt if it’s not been converted to 12V other FFR bits are more blades on the fan and an oil cooler in front of the radiator. This was so it could be run to charge the batteries whilst parked up . All could be changed since it left the forces . Its ID plate and military reg could still be on the side of the seat box ( drivers side normally ) you can if you want to trace its military history with its old reg . I think this is though the Royal logistics corps. A search on google will probably provide how you do this . The roof rack could have been fitted during its time in the military as some were ? If it has military green paint on that would be a clue ? Not sure about the spring on the carb as all my LR have been diesel. I do know that an extra return spring were a requirement on LR used when doing off road trials but most people use SWB for trailing. I’m sure someone will know more than me on that . Good luck with your LR I look forward to following your progress .
Good vid. I’ll look forward to following the progress. Can’t you use a plastic fuel tank ???
Thanks Steve, I'm not sure on the plastic fuel tank but I'll definitely have a look into it 👍🏻
Got a swb fule tank in there ? 109s are normaly at the back not under the seat but could be a army thing
Hey, thanks for watching. I think this is the military setup. It's got two tanks, one under each seat with a switch on the seat box to control where it draws the fuel from. Both the bloomin things leak though 😂
You could fit either a standard SWB or LWB tank but would need to modify the LH outer wing. The cost of parts would possibly be the same as a new military style tank though..
I saw your post on Facebook about the theft 😬, try and get a different tank fof the LPG, ice got the donut one on my l322 ( you could fit it in the spare wheel pocket behind the drivers seat ?
Great suggestion Tone, the donut one would be ideal. I'll strip all that wood back and see what I'm dealing with. Guessing it's a torpedo tank under there. Thanks for commenting 👍🏻
Just a tip, steering locks are easily defeated, and those cylinder locks on the pedals are not much of a challenge either. Granted, in your yard pinned in by the other car it's a lot less of a factor but still.
Thanks for the pointers. I've got a couple of other plans for security but at the moment the cars on the drive are the last line of defence. Hopefully they don't just smash through them 😅
@@rustenuts Just park a tiny bit more forward and to the left so it's closing off more space. They'd need a lot more of a running start to make it through and in any case it'll do so much damage as to not even be worth it to them.
Yeah defo do everything you can to secure it. A modern cordless angle grinder would probably have those locks off in a minute or two. Noisy, yes, but criminals are very brazen these days.
Hi as an owner of a series 3 109" ex military canvas tilt the door locks are no use it comes with a kill switch key in the front which is isolating the electrics, slows a thief right down, if it's not in the garage, if it didn't have the switch, I'd run an ignition coil wire inside to a hidden switch.
Me acabo de suscribir, tengo ganas de ver como dejas ese land rover 😇
Gracias por mirar y suscribirse. Bob va a ser un proyecto divertido.
I have the 2.5 5mb engine you have the wrong carb ..not sure if it's for the LPG kit someone fitted it
Thanks Stuart, do you know what carb I should be running? I will have a look into it. Thanks for watching 👍🏻
This is the correct carb from what I can see, a Zenith 361V. Originall fitment from landrover. They can be problematic so I would buy a used genuine one as spare and rebuild it (I've done a few they're pretty simple). If the throttle spindle is warn and you don't have a lathe get a professional to re bush the spindle hole. I recommend fuggles Fettling highly for this service. A good carb in top condition will transform the motor 🤙
Also the reason it looks different is because there is an LPG 'mixer' sat on top of the original carburettor. It's probably secured with little grub screws but it is a separate part to the carb and not a integral part of some special lpg carb 👌
ah I thought the gas would be beneith it
@@mully89
@@stuartsturgess2199 most of these basic types use a simple mixer (like a gas hob ring) and still rely on the origiona throttle body to control the flow of air/gas.. All very crude really 🤣 but it works
Looks like a great project. Will be following to see how it turns out. Have you checked with insurance company regarding the LPG conversion? I have heard that a lot of them can be reluctant to quote for it or put a big premium on it when its fitted on a classic vehicle.
Hi Dermot, that's a great shout. Stupidly I hadn't even considered the fueling mod when I insured it. I might have to do some digging now! 👍
I have notified my insurance and the premium doesn't really go up and never have I been asked for a certificate 👍
The rear door will have got moisture into it and the aluminium will give electrons to the steel as it rusts. This causes holes in the door skin which makes the paint bubble and fall off.
Could be a new door. Galvanized doors are better and I have seen companies sell the 3 doors as a set which is cheaper. Craddock can be expensive so do a price check first.
Thanks Mark, appreciate the advice. I had real about the chemical reaction between the two metals, a shame really as the back door is generally ok just that bottom section that's gone
@@rustenuts You can get new door skin but the delivery is expensive. Cheap if you can pick up from dealer.
Look up Britannica restoration.
It will help you alot.
@@rustenutsLook up SP Land Rover - they do replacement doors, frames or skins with galvanised steel that stops the problem for good. Once the bimetallic corrosion starts, it’s hard to stop. You can try removing the skin, clean up the skin and frame and prime them well, then reassemble with a plastic sheet barrier (tape works well).
YRM Metal Solutions make good chassis and bulkhead parts, and some body parts too, for sensible prices.
Genuine door tops shut properly, but those are cheap aftermarket replacements, probably Britpart (almost all rubbish), and their studs through the lower door frame are straight instead of bent at the correct angle.
The vehicle would have been painted Olive Drab (not NATO, which was a slightly different shade that came later) at the factory (SIIs were Bronze Green and painted olive by the REME). It would have had a green soft top and fold-down tailgate. The rear door and hard top are modifications.
Brake switches are fine if you buy genuine. Again, Britpart are hopeless.
LPG is being phased out, so you’d probably be better off stripping out that whole system and those nasty side panel reinforcing strips. The spring on the carb is added - motor sports often require an additional spring on the accelerator linkage, but I don’t think it is the cause of the delay. A carb rebuild would be wise.
They do get condensation inside, but yours is particularly bad. It’ll be the moisture in those rotten wooden panels.
Be ware of John Craddock - they fib about stock, taking your money and then leaving you waiting for months without your parts. They are also expensive. Paddock are cheap and reliable, but their stock is almost all Britpart. PA Blanchard are more expensive but all genuine stock and have A LOT of stock of the special MoD parts. LR Centre in Speke are good.
Still running on 24volts?
Hi Nathan, yep it's still 24v. Cheers for watching
Great video! Certainly lots to do and makes me feel a bit better about the one on my channel 😂 Will be watching with interest.
I hadn't considered removing the roof rack on mine off, but might do that now. Was it definitely not military spec....?
Hi Rich, I don't believe the roof rack was military spec. I don't like the aesthetic and it certainly wont help getting under some barriers 🤣
Hi Bob
Well if you went out a bought a really decent Land Rover then you wouldn’t have any content for your Chanel , I look forward to watching it get fixed 👍🏻
Very true Pezza, thanks for watching!
Before you go any further, stop.
Howmuch did you pay for the vehicle?
Work howmuch for tyres.
Converting back to petrol.
As the gas runs a bit dryer has it worn the engine? Do a compression test.
The blue colour of the engine denotes a replacement engine by the army.
Get a hammer and hit the chassis everywhere to find holes.
Take the windscreen out and have a look at the top of the bulkhead. At the same time you can replace the seals between screen and body, top and bottom.
A guy bought a series 3 lightweight and was chuffed but paid alot.
He took it to a mechanic and asked howmuch to do it up.
The list was eye wateringly expensive.
The original colour was probably green bronze.
The army were told to scuff the surface so that it did not reflect too much. Nato paint then came out which was matt.
Infra red paint was supposed to be repainted app. every 5 years.
It depends on the demob year of the vehicle.
Did the previous owner have the original mod registration number recorded. This would help with its history.
Hi Mark, I paid 4.5 fornthe old chap. It's original military reg is 06HH02. I have gone pretty hard on the chassis with a screwdriver and found a few holes. It all looks repairable at the moment. The bulkhead is a worry but I'm hoping I can eek out a couple of years on it. I will do as you said with the screen. Makes sense to refresh the seals. Interesting about the bronze green, I love that colour. I would like to go to a canvas roof but it's so damn expensive and as you have alluded to weighing up the cost of all the work is very important. I think I know the lightweight story, the guy got quoted about 14k didn't he....I never saw it after that so I'm guessing he maybe cut his losses. I really appreciate your advice 👍
@@rustenuts Canvas looks great but it rains a lot here.
I thought that in hindsight it would have been better to have found a rust bucket and bought a galvernised chasis etc. Or a vehicle that someone had partially restored.
You end up with a vehicle that is sound and enjoyable because the problems have been deleted.
Best wishes for the the task.
Don't paint the bodywork - leave the patina look...
unfortunately it was all far too gone to leave it the roof isn't staying as its not in good shape and the tub was very bad. we are returning it to its original state as a military FFR. thank you for the comment though.
I'm gonna miss Oscar 🥲 As someone who's just decided to buy my first welder, I'd be interested to see more on that learning curve!
I know, he was great! I'm looking forward to getting going on Bob. I will be documenting my welding journey...its not going to be pretty 🤣