Thanks for a well thought out & well presented series on building a solar kiln. I've watched a lot of folks's videos on this topic. Some (like yours) are very informative, and others have value in showing me how to NOT do it. I am just up & running with my new mill (considerably more than $4K) and will be building one of these at the ranch & possibly at my place in rural area just outside of Portland.
Hi Jonathan, I watched your video and I'm Glad our fans are working well for your purposes. I checked out your channel and your videos are not only informative but entertaining. Well wishes to you and yours. - Sarah from Amtrak Solar
Well you have done a good job on your start-up. You have some fine tuning to go. First you need to find a good heaver tarp that will fit tight from side wall to wall. So it does not lay on top of your stacks, for best air flow. Over & thru your stacks. Myself I stay-away from metal roofing & use a 90 lb black roll roofing. Easier to patch.
I like how your kiln turned out. Gave me some good things to think about when I build one for myself. Subbed as well as I know the grind it is to get to the magic 1k. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos.. Hopefully I'll be building a similar kiln soon. It seems odd to me that the fans area at the top in all solar kilns because of the natural convection of hot and cold air.
Was not aware that double walled polycarbonate was the preferred material. And it is expensive ($10/sf in my area). Love to know the thermal science behind the two layers. I heard "canvas" works well as baffle (less rigid then tarp). Enjoying the videos. Thanks for your time and effort.
Thanks Chris! If you plan on using the kiln in the winter, you’ll have a lot less heat loss from having an air gap in the polycarbonate. Don’t get me wrong, single walled like what I have is still a great option, but like I said, the best of kilns will utilize panels/a setup that contains an air gap.
@@HeartToHomeWoodworking You bring up a great point.... no snow in my life. And winter (and shoulder seasons) is a big part of a kiln's productivity. $10/sf can be paid for quickly with a March or November drying. You have great big-picture vision.
Hahaha I try to! The main reason why I built this kiln was to dry all of my burls and what not. I have no plans of drying a load of dimensional lumber every 2 months, but instead, 1 load of burls per year is all I need. At least for the next few years until the business grows some more!
I'd recommend maybe some heavy duty poly instead of the tarp? Still learning on my own kiln myself (indoor) But I've just been using cheap poly, with the expectation it gets replaced each time. Been thinking of trying heavy duty, and reusing it...
My kiln does expel air out the bottom vents, I have the gap between the fans and back of the kiln small, I also use rubber roofing as the tarp, at first don't open vents much to limit drying fast, as wood gets below 10%, open bottom vents More, also on solar panels, use a buck converter to control voltage from solar panels, as to high of voltage can damage fans if panels can make more than 14v
Basically, yes. The tarp/curtain seen in kilns, drapes down on top of the stacked wood, so the air is forced to go through the stack. When loading the kiln, you’ll need to make sure tarp doesn’t actually block the “front” (south side in the northern hemisphere) of the stack, only the top of it. Does this help at all?
Pushing the air around from the top is an inefficient and probably ineffective circulation method. Pull cooler air from a location close to the bottom up to the top with ducting like flex duct to warm the stack more evenly. May only require one fan. Right now you are just blowing around hot air in place.
Hey Mark, I appreciate the feedback. I’ve just built it as per the recommendations from here: vtechworks.lib.vt.edu/server/api/core/bitstreams/64394f45-484b-4267-9154-ed10e7d82c5b/content You should design something and build it! I’m quite curious to see how your design would work.
I don’t see why not. While they would certainly absorb heat, I’m not sure how you would insulate it, and attach the solar collector. If you do go with brick, please document that, cause I would love to see it!
Thanks for a well thought out & well presented series on building a solar kiln. I've watched a lot of folks's videos on this topic. Some (like yours) are very informative, and others have value in showing me how to NOT do it. I am just up & running with my new mill (considerably more than $4K) and will be building one of these at the ranch & possibly at my place in rural area just outside of Portland.
Hi Jonathan, I watched your video and I'm Glad our fans are working well for your purposes. I checked out your channel and your videos are not only informative but entertaining. Well wishes to you and yours. - Sarah from Amtrak Solar
Thank you, Sarah! That means a lot!! I’m very satisfied with your product, and I recommend it to anyone looking a good solar fan setup.
Well you have done a good job on your start-up. You have some fine tuning to go. First you need to find a good heaver tarp that will fit tight from side wall to wall. So it does not lay on top of your stacks, for best air flow. Over & thru your stacks. Myself I stay-away from metal roofing & use a 90 lb black roll roofing. Easier to patch.
Love your videos! You make me laugh and that makes the topics more interesting. Love Brandy!
Thanks mom ❤️
Try turning the fans the other way, so the heated air can rise naturally and be drawn through the wood and into the bottom of the heating area.
I like how your kiln turned out. Gave me some good things to think about when I build one for myself. Subbed as well as I know the grind it is to get to the magic 1k. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos.. Hopefully I'll be building a similar kiln soon. It seems odd to me that the fans area at the top in all solar kilns because of the natural convection of hot and cold air.
Was not aware that double walled polycarbonate was the preferred material. And it is expensive ($10/sf in my area). Love to know the thermal science behind the two layers. I heard "canvas" works well as baffle (less rigid then tarp). Enjoying the videos. Thanks for your time and effort.
Thanks Chris! If you plan on using the kiln in the winter, you’ll have a lot less heat loss from having an air gap in the polycarbonate. Don’t get me wrong, single walled like what I have is still a great option, but like I said, the best of kilns will utilize panels/a setup that contains an air gap.
@@HeartToHomeWoodworking You bring up a great point.... no snow in my life. And winter (and shoulder seasons) is a big part of a kiln's productivity. $10/sf can be paid for quickly with a March or November drying. You have great big-picture vision.
Hahaha I try to! The main reason why I built this kiln was to dry all of my burls and what not. I have no plans of drying a load of dimensional lumber every 2 months, but instead, 1 load of burls per year is all I need. At least for the next few years until the business grows some more!
Thanks nice set of 5 vids
I'd recommend maybe some heavy duty poly instead of the tarp?
Still learning on my own kiln myself (indoor)
But I've just been using cheap poly, with the expectation it gets replaced each time.
Been thinking of trying heavy duty, and reusing it...
My kiln does expel air out the bottom vents, I have the gap between the fans and back of the kiln small, I also use rubber roofing as the tarp, at first don't open vents much to limit drying fast, as wood gets below 10%, open bottom vents More, also on solar panels, use a buck converter to control voltage from solar panels, as to high of voltage can damage fans if panels can make more than 14v
So heat goes down
Yes, the fans move the air over the top of the stack, and force air through the stack, some air is expelled out the bottom vents, some is recirculated
So how did the kiln work out? What kind of changes did you make? I’m thinking about making one and I live up in northern Maine, USA.
nice build! Do you feel confident that your kiln will kill all bugs and larva?
Instead of a tarp use black rubber roof used for flat roofs.
How much time does it take to dry lumber ?
How awesome would this be in cedar?
Instead of tarp, how about roofing fabric?
Do you leave a gap at the bottom of the tarp for airflow ?
Basically, yes. The tarp/curtain seen in kilns, drapes down on top of the stacked wood, so the air is forced to go through the stack. When loading the kiln, you’ll need to make sure tarp doesn’t actually block the “front” (south side in the northern hemisphere) of the stack, only the top of it. Does this help at all?
@@HeartToHomeWoodworking Yes , thank you. I've changed it so its like yours and there's much better airflow now, thank you
@@Lushahx no problem! If there are any other questions, don’t hesitate to ask.
Pushing the air around from the top is an inefficient and probably ineffective circulation method. Pull cooler air from a location close to the bottom up to the top with ducting like flex duct to warm the stack more evenly. May only require one fan. Right now you are just blowing around hot air in place.
Hey Mark, I appreciate the feedback. I’ve just built it as per the recommendations from here: vtechworks.lib.vt.edu/server/api/core/bitstreams/64394f45-484b-4267-9154-ed10e7d82c5b/content
You should design something and build it! I’m quite curious to see how your design would work.
Can i use typical bricks for the structure instead of wood;
I don’t see why not. While they would certainly absorb heat, I’m not sure how you would insulate it, and attach the solar collector. If you do go with brick, please document that, cause I would love to see it!
@@HeartToHomeWoodworking I was thinking about painting them black inside out.
@@Arkoudeides. that would definitely help!
Shipping container 👍