I use a 10 frame deep brood chamber box. I have very good success and I catch large swarms. And truthfully I set it up just like the bees were in it. Landing board, inner and outer cover. Although one disadvantage is theft so you have to hide it. Put frames with existing comb and 5 or 6 drops of lemon grass oil on top of the wood frames and 1 at the entrance and check on it about once a week. I even set one up on my table saw in my shed. I got a swarm that I had to immediately give a second deep and they are going strong.
Sounds like a great setup! It always means you have equipment to put them in because they are already moving into it! Do you leave the entrance wide open or use a reducer of some sort? Thanks for sharing!
@@primitivedaisy No I set it up like it is an existing hive, but I put a ratchet strap around it(makes it easier to move). I will often put a jar with sugar water to get them to come close to the box. Other than that you can emulsify lemon grass oil into water and then put it in a spray bottle and spray around you swarm trap. That really puts out a strong smell. BE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN TO NOT DO THAT AROUND YOUR EXISTING HIVES LEMONGRASS CAN SET OFF A ROBBING SITUATION. Maintain a distance between your hives and your traps if at all possible. Sugar water and lemongrass oil will both attract lots of bees especially in dearth, those bees are hungry and will rob your hives given the chance.
@@primitivedaisy use a used deep for sent. Drill a hole and screw a board for a bottom and you are done. Lemongrass oil 8 drops on a paper in a plastic bag for sent. The sent goes trough the plastic for weeks so perfect and easy. Hand in a tree at a edge of a Woodline.
Here we see Science, yet again, delivering the goods. Hats off to Dr. Seeley and his team for being awesome. Thank you for a great video... liked/subscribing
I put out swarm traps and actively go catch swarms in trees & places. The largest of swarms I've picked up will not fit in a 5-frame nuc. Yet---I almost exclusively put out 5-frame nucs. Why?---cause they work 'good enough' AND I don't want some freakishly sized box which is only good for swarm trapping. I've just started stepping up my swarm catching racquet and last year I caught 50%. If I don't catch any swarms at my original spots, I'll move those boxes. There are lots of things to optimize catching swarms and I say...more power to all who use them. My very 1st swarm trap I ever made was precisely 40liters. AND it was placed 15' high in a tree. I had no takers for 3 years. Within that 3 years I had 15 swarms move into my empty boxes in the back yard. Some moved into 5-frame medium nucs too! The height of these 15 swarms which moved into my nucs was 18" above the ground (on my hive stands). Not one swarm moved into any of my 'full frame' equipment' (I exclusively 8-frame boxes for my big hives). Back to my bunch-o-swarm traps which I have all about Austin. They're all at between 4' and 6' high. A height which is simply convenient for me to place and convenient to retrieve. Maybe I can increase my odds...but I'm doing just fine by not 'following' the rules. I do use Swarm Commander and Lemongrass Oil. Although, I don't bait them very much and I still have had great luck. Damn...I wrote a mini-novel. Oh, one last thing. A buddy of mine keeps using these frosting tubs I get for free. She coats the inside with wax and at her magical property, a bit south of here...she has caught 7 swarms out of 7 traps (in 5 gallon tubs/buckets). That floored me! I was astounded she could even catch a swarm in a bucket much less 7/7 (that's just this year). My novel is even larger...wow!
Step 1: Set up a bee hive (4-5 stack Japanese Box hive is simplest). 2: Cut a 1 1/2 to 2" hole in one side about half way up and squirt some lemon grass oil inside. 3: Wait. 4: Once swarm has entered and bees are setting up house, close the hole with a piece of plywood and a screw. 5. Bees will now solely start using the entrance............If you build it, they will come.......Simple.....And this works best when the weather is warm and sunny....late spring, early summer......could also happen in late summer.........Z
Get video, as a new beekeeper, I would have enjoyed seeing your frame layout in a 10 frame deep. as i have extra of those but have no nuke boxes. but great work.
Spring is swarm season, a very small number in comparison occur in the summer and some in the fall. Fall swarms have much less likely chance of making it through winter. So while you can trap some swarms in summer and fall the best time is spring. Thanks for watching!
So how does one go about determining the volumn of a swarm box ? I can measure in cubic inches or cubic centimeters, but how does that come out to cubic liters ? I'd really like to know. Bob
A quart and a liter are pretty much equal. There are four quarts to a gallon and 5 gallons in a bucket….. so there are about 20 liters in a five gallon bucket. I estimate the same space as two, 5 gallon buckets, as optimal for a swarm trap. Good luck!!!!
40 liters. All these channels but no one just telling you the cubic inches or feet. Or pints for that matter I guess. Am I the last American? Excellent video
Thank you Peter, I forgot to add that to the description! It is there now but here is that link: www.amazon.com/Skelang-Beehive-Disc-Gates-Diameter/dp/B07FLV375W?&tag=beekeepinguni-20 Thank you and Happy Trapping!
Timely video.
Just yesterday, a neighbor called me to help trap a swarm that migrated from one of his hives. Fun times, it was. Truly!
I caught swarms this year and last year in traps made from 10 frame brood boxes... ! What a feeling... what a Joy...
I just set out unused deep box with 1-2 drawn comb and new waxed frame and the bees just come to my house and move in, 4 swarms this past week.
I use a 10 frame deep brood chamber box. I have very good success and I catch large swarms.
And truthfully I set it up just like the bees were in it. Landing board, inner and outer cover.
Although one disadvantage is theft so you have to hide it.
Put frames with existing comb and 5 or 6 drops of lemon grass oil on top of the wood frames and 1 at the entrance and check on it about once a week.
I even set one up on my table saw in my shed. I got a swarm that I had to immediately give a second deep and they are going strong.
Sounds like a great setup! It always means you have equipment to put them in because they are already moving into it!
Do you leave the entrance wide open or use a reducer of some sort?
Thanks for sharing!
@@BeekeepingUniversity I reduce my opening to a small maybe 11/4 x 3/4
Thx for sharing this! I want to use an old 10 frame deep, but wasn’t sure if I needed to modify anything. Do you add any extra space on the bottom?
@@primitivedaisy No I set it up like it is an existing hive, but I put a ratchet strap around it(makes it easier to move). I will often put a jar with sugar water to get them to come close to the box. Other than that you can emulsify lemon grass oil into water and then put it in a spray bottle and spray around you swarm trap. That really puts out a strong smell. BE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN TO NOT DO THAT AROUND YOUR EXISTING HIVES LEMONGRASS CAN SET OFF A ROBBING SITUATION. Maintain a distance between your hives and your traps if at all possible. Sugar water and lemongrass oil will both attract lots of bees especially in dearth, those bees are hungry and will rob your hives given the chance.
@@primitivedaisy use a used deep for sent. Drill a hole and screw a board for a bottom and you are done. Lemongrass oil 8 drops on a paper in a plastic bag for sent. The sent goes trough the plastic for weeks so perfect and easy. Hand in a tree at a edge of a Woodline.
Here we see Science, yet again, delivering the goods. Hats off to Dr. Seeley and his team for being awesome. Thank you for a great video... liked/subscribing
I put out swarm traps and actively go catch swarms in trees & places.
The largest of swarms I've picked up will not fit in a 5-frame nuc.
Yet---I almost exclusively put out 5-frame nucs.
Why?---cause they work 'good enough' AND I don't want some freakishly sized box which is only good for swarm trapping.
I've just started stepping up my swarm catching racquet and last year I caught 50%.
If I don't catch any swarms at my original spots, I'll move those boxes.
There are lots of things to optimize catching swarms and I say...more power to all who use them.
My very 1st swarm trap I ever made was precisely 40liters. AND it was placed 15' high in a tree. I had no takers for 3 years.
Within that 3 years I had 15 swarms move into my empty boxes in the back yard.
Some moved into 5-frame medium nucs too!
The height of these 15 swarms which moved into my nucs was 18" above the ground (on my hive stands). Not one swarm moved into any of my 'full frame' equipment' (I exclusively 8-frame boxes for my big hives).
Back to my bunch-o-swarm traps which I have all about Austin.
They're all at between 4' and 6' high. A height which is simply convenient for me to place and convenient to retrieve.
Maybe I can increase my odds...but I'm doing just fine by not 'following' the rules.
I do use Swarm Commander and Lemongrass Oil.
Although, I don't bait them very much and I still have had great luck.
Damn...I wrote a mini-novel.
Oh, one last thing. A buddy of mine keeps using these frosting tubs I get for free.
She coats the inside with wax and at her magical property, a bit south of here...she has caught 7 swarms out of 7 traps (in 5 gallon tubs/buckets).
That floored me! I was astounded she could even catch a swarm in a bucket much less 7/7 (that's just this year).
My novel is even larger...wow!
Swarm Trapping is like Christmas every time, but you're gonna have to convince me to abandon Swarm Commander for your brand!
How do you keep wasps from moving into a swarm trap?
I catch swarms in deeps or medium size 10-frame boxes. In spring I have deadouts and I can't leave one out or it will get bees. For me it is THAT EZ..
Do you just leave the trap set up like a normal hive or do you attach it to trees?
I use 2 8-frame mediums fastened together vertically and have excellent results.
Step 1: Set up a bee hive (4-5 stack Japanese Box hive is simplest). 2: Cut a 1 1/2 to 2" hole in one side about half way up and squirt some lemon grass oil inside. 3: Wait. 4: Once swarm has entered and bees are setting up house, close the hole with a piece of plywood and a screw. 5. Bees will now solely start using the entrance............If you build it, they will come.......Simple.....And this works best when the weather is warm and sunny....late spring, early summer......could also happen in late summer.........Z
Should there be such a large notch into a swarm trap?
Get video, as a new beekeeper, I would have enjoyed seeing your frame layout in a 10 frame deep. as i have extra of those but have no nuke boxes. but great work.
Do the entrance disks get hot in the summer? Will they burn the bees?
Hi great video thanks. Did as you said but this season all I caught was wax moth in the old comb. Any hints on keeping the wax moth out please?
Watching from south africa durban👌
Inland, Notties
Do you have an issue with wax moths or ants putting in a foundation frame?
When can you trap swarms? I have heard basically anytime other than winter. Is this true or just early Spring?
Spring is swarm season, a very small number in comparison occur in the summer and some in the fall. Fall swarms have much less likely chance of making it through winter. So while you can trap some swarms in summer and fall the best time is spring. Thanks for watching!
So how does one go about determining the volumn of a swarm box ? I can measure in cubic inches or cubic centimeters, but how does that come out to cubic liters ? I'd really like to know. Bob
Great question, there are 1,000 cubic centimeters in a liter, so you can calculate the volume in cubic centimeters, then divide by 1,000. Thanks
geometry.
LxWxH=volume
A quart and a liter are pretty much equal. There are four quarts to a gallon and 5 gallons in a bucket….. so there are about 20 liters in a five gallon bucket. I estimate the same space as two, 5 gallon buckets, as optimal for a swarm trap. Good luck!!!!
Bees don't use metric
Could anyone explain why the scouts showing up fight and kill each other in the entrance?
I prefer the 10 frame box method. How do you set up the inside of that?
Great video!! A lot of great advice!! Good luck this year!! God bless
Thank you for the kind words! I hope you have a great season as well! Happy trapping!
Greetings from Uzbekistan
Привет из Узбекистана
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40 liters. All these channels but no one just telling you the cubic inches or feet. Or pints for that matter I guess. Am I the last American? Excellent video
The size of a ten frame box.
good luck with your work
Great info! Did you share the link for the disks?
Thank you Peter, I forgot to add that to the description! It is there now but here is that link: www.amazon.com/Skelang-Beehive-Disc-Gates-Diameter/dp/B07FLV375W?&tag=beekeepinguni-20 Thank you and Happy Trapping!
Very educative
Nice information
Love your ideas
good video
👍🐝
I'd like to try it, but I couldn't find the coupon code.
Check the math on the round entrance hole.
i got 2.41 freedom units^2
You need to kashmiri honey🍯
Pure honey