thank you man. 4 years later and the potentiometer was EXACTLY the reason my brake pedal on G923 kept registering pressure. All I did was straighten the metal and suddenly it's working lol
The potentiometers are the weak point with the G27 and G29 pedals, particularly the throttle one as it is used the most. I've removed them several times, opened them up and cleaned the contact surfaces with circuit board cleaner and cotton buds. This works well for some time but eventually the constant friction wears them out completely. Finding replacements is a problem. The 3dRap ones from Italy are 3D printed so the plastic gears are not particularly robust. But they work fine for quite a while before needing replacement again. I ordered some replacements from Digi-Key in the US which look exactly the same. The plastic threaded part is a fraction larger than the originals so a light touch with a Dremell was needed to enlarge the hole in the metal mounting slightly. Unfortunately the input shaft is keyed 180 degrees opposite to the originals so pedal position is incorrect. The brake for example is constantly full on. I'm going to open one up and see if I can modify it to work correctly. I think there must be clockwise and anti-clockwise rotation models. The new Logitech G923 pedals use exactly the same potentiometers so there will be problems down the track with them as well.
Thanks for your input, i already had potentiometer problem six months ago i sprayed with contact cleaner.This time the spraying did not help, i changed clutch to throtlle pedals because i do not use the clutch. But now brake pedal started to act up spraying won't work only have one good potentiometer from clutch which is accelrator now. Maybe it could help to take it totally apart and clean it rather than just spraying right into potentiometer or try to buy new ones wich is diffiicult. And do the 3d printed potentiometes have the 180 degree issue you mentioed. Because i have to do something try cleaning it by taking apart or search for 3d printed ones otherwise i cant race.
@@ahmadil I eventually took my faulty potentiometer apart, cleaned it out with circuit board cleaner, and lightly smeared the contacts with dialectric grease (doesn't conduct electricity). Put it back together and it has worked perfectly since. I think the dialectric grease is the answer, it stops the contacts from wearing.
@@ahmadil It's not a degreaser Darius, it's a lubricant. Degreaser is a solvent while dialectic grease is a lubricant that doesn't conduct electricity. So it's perfect for lubricating the fragile electrical contact surfaces inside the potentiometer. Any electronics shop or even a good hardware store will stock it. Comes in a small tube.
@@PropanePete Sorry i just wrote that word but i meant dialectic grease. I was typing with on screen keyboard with mouse so i got lazy. But thanks anyway. How soon your pontentiometer wore out completely after full clean + grease ? I hope that when i take everything apart it will work ordered the dialecric grease yesterday already bought contact cleaner now just left to wait an then try to fix one broken pedals. Do you think that i need to take apart my working clutch that i wasnt even using but it was still covered in dust but it now works fine as accelerator ? I hope i won't wreck the pedals. Thank you Pete
Cheers for this great tip, I had the bouncing ACC and my TrueBrake mod was also having issues, coming on during races so I knew there was something odd going on. After I took the acc peddle apart again and cleaned it for a second time with alchol, reassembled I noticed that movement in the pot, however it wasn't as bad as yours, tested it, didn't see anymore bounces and used your glue gun trick to keep it in position just in case!
Yo thank you for this video, this was all I needed to know and now my throttle is fixed, all the other videos didn’t know what they were explaining or were too long this was just perfect thanks
Omg Hooray 🥳🥳🥳🥳🥳🥳 Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou!!! Finished watching part 1 and got to cleaning mine and just like you I had this bouncy throttle issue still, so after watching this part 2 video I gave my potentiometers a lil wiggle and sure enough that was the issue 😅 Although this is awesome I’m still going to buy the AXC sim Potentiometer upgrade and get rid of this silly issue altogether
I've just started getting these problems, it makes you think, this alot of work for something worth so much money, you'd think it would be more sturdy.
I've pulled my pedals apart 5 times now and I'm still having issues. I've come to the conclusion that they're only fit for the bin. I would never buy Logitech again and wouldn't recommend them either. Hopefully in the next few months I will be able to upgrade to another make, then I may actually start enjoying racing games again. BTW I've had this G29 for less than 18 months and I regret getting it.
I poured a ltr of isopropanol into the brake and throttle things that this guy is moving around. After half a ltr each my sick was full of dust muk hairs and millions of tiny bits of black plastic marbles
I have same issues with only three month old peddles. First noticed the ABS light flickering down straights, now starting to notice throttle flickering on and off :( For this reason I couldn't recommend Logitech G29 to anyone, durability is a big issue it seems.
my g27 pedals are going strong and 5+ years old. My g29 pedals have failed within a year.....(6months to be almost exact) Its just the accelerator pedal for me but i find it really weird that my g27 after taking 5 years of RBR beatings still goes strong yet my g29 pedals fail under a year with not much thrashing at all!
@@jasonstranthon5183 Yes i got the same issue with my g29... I got flickering input that got up to 20%-30% of the pedals, and i got it for both clutch accelerator and brake, fortunately It worked well for a full year but its so sad because It was quite expensive i spent 450 euros for the whole bundle with manual shifter too and even After cleaning the internal parts and after swapping clutch with accelerator because It was in Better condition and after even swapping the spring because It was too hard to Press i still have to take off from the game the First 10-15% of pedals (idk how its called i dont speak english so well)
Hi can you please help? I have a problem that as soon as i plug in my pedals the wheel power cuts off and when i unplug them the power returns. This is an electrical issue. I'm not certain if it's the PINS on the wheel where you plug in the pedals OR the wire itself or the contact plugs on the pedals with the red and black (positive and negative wires). Obviously something is shorting out along this relay. Are you able to shed some light or make a short video showing the EXACT cables position where they plug onto that potentiometer on the pedal plate? I'll see if mine were wired wrong or if potentiometer isn't making connection. Thank you kindly.
I have a g920, when on the logitech g hub, my brake calibration only reaches 20% with my brake pedal pushed in until it hits the extra pressure part (the square sponge lol) my mates reaches over 50% at that point? What could be wrong about mine?
I have a G27 and what it does is on straightaways,I am full throttle and my car will drop in speed alot and then pick back up again. It's an on and off thing. Wondering if it could be a dirty potentiometer or failing one. Thinking of changing the clutch to the gas since I don'tuse the clutch. Your thoughts?
Don't use that ELVI 60 spray, it's a penetrant not a cleaner. However you certainly can use a spray can of circuit board cleaner. They come with a small insertion tube that you can poke into the potentiometer and spray the insides while working the pedal back and forth. Be liberal, you can't hurt anything. As per my comment up the top the problem will eventually return at some stage.
Cheers dude. I have a G29 problem and don't know if by any chance you may know the solution. My pedals suddenly stopped working in GT7, I connect it to PC and check with the Logitech software and see with any movement of the pedal there is barely any response reading. I took apart the pedal set and tried to clean (previously applied WD40 to solve pedal sticking issue), but this time I have no luck fixing the new issue. Now if I fully press one of the pedals, the software reading is only about 5% of the travel. Thanks in advance.
Are you sure there’s no movement at all. Even the tiniest bit makes a difference. Is held I’m position with plastic tabs on the back of the potentiometer that go into the peddle frame. They ware a bit from use and you get some movement. What is the problem with your peddles?
@@Stefano-YT I did but there was alot of hair in my pedals from the dogs and I had to clean the potentiometer with electronic cleaner and then they worked like jew
thank you man. 4 years later and the potentiometer was EXACTLY the reason my brake pedal on G923 kept registering pressure. All I did was straighten the metal and suddenly it's working lol
The potentiometers are the weak point with the G27 and G29 pedals, particularly the throttle one as it is used the most. I've removed them several times, opened them up and cleaned the contact surfaces with circuit board cleaner and cotton buds. This works well for some time but eventually the constant friction wears them out completely. Finding replacements is a problem. The 3dRap ones from Italy are 3D printed so the plastic gears are not particularly robust. But they work fine for quite a while before needing replacement again. I ordered some replacements from Digi-Key in the US which look exactly the same. The plastic threaded part is a fraction larger than the originals so a light touch with a Dremell was needed to enlarge the hole in the metal mounting slightly. Unfortunately the input shaft is keyed 180 degrees opposite to the originals so pedal position is incorrect. The brake for example is constantly full on. I'm going to open one up and see if I can modify it to work correctly. I think there must be clockwise and anti-clockwise rotation models. The new Logitech G923 pedals use exactly the same potentiometers so there will be problems down the track with them as well.
Thanks for your input, i already had potentiometer problem six months ago i sprayed with contact cleaner.This time the spraying did not help, i changed clutch to throtlle pedals because i do not use the clutch. But now brake pedal started to act up spraying won't work only have one good potentiometer from clutch which is accelrator now. Maybe it could help to take it totally apart and clean it rather than just spraying right into potentiometer or try to buy new ones wich is diffiicult. And do the 3d printed potentiometes have the 180 degree issue you mentioed. Because i have to do something try cleaning it by taking apart or search for 3d printed ones otherwise i cant race.
@@ahmadil I eventually took my faulty potentiometer apart, cleaned it out with circuit board cleaner, and lightly smeared the contacts with dialectric grease (doesn't conduct electricity). Put it back together and it has worked perfectly since. I think the dialectric grease is the answer, it stops the contacts from wearing.
@@PropanePete Thanks for your reply i will try take apart and buy that degreaser
@@ahmadil It's not a degreaser Darius, it's a lubricant. Degreaser is a solvent while dialectic grease is a lubricant that doesn't conduct electricity. So it's perfect for lubricating the fragile electrical contact surfaces inside the potentiometer. Any electronics shop or even a good hardware store will stock it. Comes in a small tube.
@@PropanePete Sorry i just wrote that word but i meant dialectic grease. I was typing with on screen keyboard with mouse so i got lazy. But thanks anyway. How soon your pontentiometer wore out completely after full clean + grease ? I hope that when i take everything apart it will work ordered the dialecric grease yesterday already bought contact cleaner now just left to wait an then try to fix one broken pedals. Do you think that i need to take apart my working clutch that i wasnt even using but it was still covered in dust but it now works fine as accelerator ? I hope i won't wreck the pedals. Thank you Pete
Cheers for this great tip, I had the bouncing ACC and my TrueBrake mod was also having issues, coming on during races so I knew there was something odd going on. After I took the acc peddle apart again and cleaned it for a second time with alchol, reassembled I noticed that movement in the pot, however it wasn't as bad as yours, tested it, didn't see anymore bounces and used your glue gun trick to keep it in position just in case!
Yo thank you for this video, this was all I needed to know and now my throttle is fixed, all the other videos didn’t know what they were explaining or were too long this was just perfect thanks
Omg Hooray 🥳🥳🥳🥳🥳🥳
Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou!!! Finished watching part 1 and got to cleaning mine and just like you I had this bouncy throttle issue still, so after watching this part 2 video I gave my potentiometers a lil wiggle and sure enough that was the issue 😅
Although this is awesome I’m still going to buy the AXC sim Potentiometer upgrade and get rid of this silly issue altogether
I've just started getting these problems, it makes you think, this alot of work for something worth so much money, you'd think it would be more sturdy.
Finally my problem is solved
Your tweak is work
I've pulled my pedals apart 5 times now and I'm still having issues. I've come to the conclusion that they're only fit for the bin. I would never buy Logitech again and wouldn't recommend them either. Hopefully in the next few months I will be able to upgrade to another make, then I may actually start enjoying racing games again. BTW I've had this G29 for less than 18 months and I regret getting it.
I poured a ltr of isopropanol into the brake and throttle things that this guy is moving around. After half a ltr each my sick was full of dust muk hairs and millions of tiny bits of black plastic marbles
I have same issues with only three month old peddles. First noticed the ABS light flickering down straights, now starting to notice throttle flickering on and off :( For this reason I couldn't recommend Logitech G29 to anyone, durability is a big issue it seems.
my g27 pedals are going strong and 5+ years old.
My g29 pedals have failed within a year.....(6months to be almost exact)
Its just the accelerator pedal for me but i find it really weird that my g27 after taking 5 years of RBR beatings still goes strong yet my g29 pedals fail under a year with not much thrashing at all!
@@jasonstranthon5183 Yes i got the same issue with my g29... I got flickering input that got up to 20%-30% of the pedals, and i got it for both clutch accelerator and brake, fortunately It worked well for a full year but its so sad because It was quite expensive i spent 450 euros for the whole bundle with manual shifter too and even After cleaning the internal parts and after swapping clutch with accelerator because It was in Better condition and after even swapping the spring because It was too hard to Press i still have to take off from the game the First 10-15% of pedals (idk how its called i dont speak english so well)
Hi can you please help? I have a problem that as soon as i plug in my pedals the wheel power cuts off and when i unplug them the power returns. This is an electrical issue. I'm not certain if it's the PINS on the wheel where you plug in the pedals OR the wire itself or the contact plugs on the pedals with the red and black (positive and negative wires). Obviously something is shorting out along this relay. Are you able to shed some light or make a short video showing the EXACT cables position where they plug onto that potentiometer on the pedal plate? I'll see if mine were wired wrong or if potentiometer isn't making connection. Thank you kindly.
if you dont use the clutch pedal, you can just swap the pedals and that works a treat.
Swap the whole pedals? Because I don't think the wire stretches that far. Or are u just changing the potentiometers
@@CSM13 you can unplug each pedal unit.
Then swap them over. I've done it for a mate
I have a g920, when on the logitech g hub, my brake calibration only reaches 20% with my brake pedal pushed in until it hits the extra pressure part (the square sponge lol) my mates reaches over 50% at that point? What could be wrong about mine?
Open usb controller and calibrate. Then when you press your brake as far as you like it will read 100%
Dude, you're a life saver! Thank you very much!
Great video. Do you think it could be a good idea to glue the pots to their places before they start to move around like this?
Sure it wouldn’t hurt. Not a bad idea.
I have a G27 and what it does is on straightaways,I am full throttle and my car will drop in speed alot and then pick back up again. It's an on and off thing. Wondering if it could be a dirty potentiometer or failing one. Thinking of changing the clutch to the gas since I don'tuse the clutch. Your thoughts?
If ye haven’t tried cleaning them, start there.
Can I use ELVI 60 MULTIPURPOSE spray on potentiometer?? (Please respond I need your help)
Do what I do on this vid and you should be able to stop your problem. If the potentiometer has moved it can think your pushing the peddle
I don’t think you should use that spray. Contact cleaner only.
Don't use that ELVI 60 spray, it's a penetrant not a cleaner. However you certainly can use a spray can of circuit board cleaner. They come with a small insertion tube that you can poke into the potentiometer and spray the insides while working the pedal back and forth. Be liberal, you can't hurt anything. As per my comment up the top the problem will eventually return at some stage.
Cheers dude. I have a G29 problem and don't know if by any chance you may know the solution. My pedals suddenly stopped working in GT7, I connect it to PC and check with the Logitech software and see with any movement of the pedal there is barely any response reading. I took apart the pedal set and tried to clean (previously applied WD40 to solve pedal sticking issue), but this time I have no luck fixing the new issue. Now if I fully press one of the pedals, the software reading is only about 5% of the travel. Thanks in advance.
Which bit do u loosen to adjust the angle of the potentiometer? Mine is stiff in its position
Are you sure there’s no movement at all.
Even the tiniest bit makes a difference.
Is held I’m position with plastic tabs on the back of the potentiometer that go into the peddle frame. They ware a bit from use and you get some movement.
What is the problem with your peddles?
What glue did you use
hello can i have an email I would have a video to show because I don’t know what could be wrong? thanx
Upload the video on your channel and I’ll have a look.
Solution: Sensor Hall
It's worked for me! At least, so far haha
Thank you
Still works?
@@Kwibus51 slid you fixed yours?
@@Stefano-YT I did but there was alot of hair in my pedals from the dogs and I had to clean the potentiometer with electronic cleaner and then they worked like jew
I fixed it, thanks man
Thanks dude you are bro.
Obviously if you have a random brake problem, you wouldnt adjust the throttle....
Thx man 🙏