That's a good idea. But not until after painting has been done...provided, of course, I ever get to that stage. I have, at some point, replaced the cable with a very slightly smaller diameter one, and that made a HUGE difference.
@@TheEnigmaThatIsDrIce I know that it's been three years since you've posted this video but I was going to say that perhaps marine grease or graphite powder down in the cowling flap hinge points as well as down in where the actuator cable feeds, in addition to your own solution of going with a smaller diameter cable, to the binding issue might be another option for you. Awesome work! I would like to build a WWII 1/8 scale P-61C Black Widow and your approach to incorporating functional cooling baffling and cowl flaps is certainly inspiring while at the same time addresses the all important cooling issues while adding to the scale realism. Hopefully, you are still doing things in the radio control world since I've just became a new subscriber to your channel. So, do keep up the good work!
Nice work there. I can see that you may need to add more support to the servo base (the bottom side) as they wiggle a little bit and might stress the screw to break point at some time.
Good point. I have since replaced the .062 actuating cable with an 050 cable, which moves MUCH more smoothly through the 25 or so little Nyrod tubes. The torque required to move the flaps now is a great deal less. Yay!
I know this is an reply to an old video but what most people misunderstand about servo ratings is that it is a holding torque not a moving torque. You put 30 ounces on it and it should hold it not move it.
Hello i want to do the same job and corsaire hangar 9 (60cc) , and what do you use for the to do the hinge ?? I think i ask you alredy on last video ! is verry good job , I'll have to study your video on cowl flaps installation ....
On the full scale, they are used to regulate engine temperature. On the model...I I expect the engine cooling will not be a problem (I hope), but they will probably act as air brakes. Mostly, I made them operational for the COOL appeal. :-)
Hi there, I'm experimenting with cowl flaps in a science fair project for school and I am going to build an engine model. Where can I buy the servo motors used in this video to move the wires attached to the cowl flaps? Thanks for your help!
Yes, DS388HV to be exact, but if you are using less than 7V, you can use regular DS388's.Also...depending on how many cowl flaps you have, and how smooth they move, you can use a much cheaper servo, like a Hitec HS85MG, which will save you $100 or more. The JR servos are NOT cheap.
Ok. Thanks for the information! I'm only building a basic model of an engine with cowl flaps. I was wondering what kind of servo do you recommend for me to buy? (I'm looking for a cheap servo for under $20 and is strong enough to perform with very smooth flaps.) There is also the same amount of flaps in my engine model as yours. Thanks!
I would give the Hitec HS85MG a try. They almost worked for me, but I needed a bit more torque and some margin, which I didn't hae with the Hitec servos.
I was one of those people for a long time. JR does have the best equipment out there. Those 388s are now 390's and great little servos.
Excellent job. Very impressive! Thanks Don, for showing me how to do that.
you are an amazing builder
Really really cool ------ loved watching this and I too, would love to build one of these ....... just don't have the time with everything else !
That looks amazing well done been binge watching your videos
that Corsair looks amazing
Very cool, try putting a drop of oil on ALL hinges and cables to help keep the stuff from binding
That's a good idea. But not until after painting has been done...provided, of course, I ever get to that stage.
I have, at some point, replaced the cable with a very slightly smaller diameter one, and that made a HUGE difference.
@@TheEnigmaThatIsDrIce
I know that it's been three years since you've posted this video but I was going to say that perhaps marine grease or graphite powder down in the cowling flap hinge points as well as down in where the actuator cable feeds, in addition to your own solution of going with a smaller diameter cable, to the binding issue might be another option for you.
Awesome work!
I would like to build a WWII 1/8 scale P-61C Black Widow and your approach to incorporating functional cooling baffling and cowl flaps is certainly inspiring while at the same time addresses the all important cooling issues while adding to the scale realism.
Hopefully, you are still doing things in the radio control world since I've just became a new subscriber to your channel. So, do keep up the good work!
Not to pry, but are you a machinist? I'm just amazed at the level of workmanship and precision that you've put into this model!
Thank you Pink. No...not a machinist. I am an Electronics Engineer...so my head came pre-wired with the prerequisite level of anal retentivity...
Nice work there. I can see that you may need to add more support to the servo base (the bottom side) as they wiggle a little bit and might stress the screw to break point at some time.
Good point. I have since replaced the .062 actuating cable with an 050 cable, which moves MUCH more smoothly through the 25 or so little Nyrod tubes. The torque required to move the flaps now is a great deal less. Yay!
Very nice, Don!
I know this is an reply to an old video but what most people misunderstand about servo ratings is that it is a holding torque not a moving torque. You put 30 ounces on it and it should hold it not move it.
That's excellent information. Thank you
very good frandy
Looks great.
thats very awesome
Hello i want to do the same job and corsaire hangar 9 (60cc) , and what do you use for the to do the hinge ?? I think i ask you alredy on last video ! is verry good job , I'll have to study your video on cowl flaps installation ....
brill job
Don- nice job and very cool. Do the cowl flaps help slow the plane down? Or does it help cool the engine?
On the full scale, they are used to regulate engine temperature. On the model...I I expect the engine cooling will not be a problem (I hope), but they will probably act as air brakes. Mostly, I made them operational for the COOL appeal. :-)
Hi there, I'm experimenting with cowl flaps in a science fair project for school and I am going to build an engine model. Where can I buy the servo motors used in this video to move the wires attached to the cowl flaps? Thanks for your help!
Those servo motors can be bought at any local hobby shop, or online at places like horizonhobby.com.
Thanks for the quick reply, I was also wondering what their specific name was. Were they the JR ds 388?
Yes, DS388HV to be exact, but if you are using less than 7V, you can use regular DS388's.Also...depending on how many cowl flaps you have, and how smooth they move, you can use a much cheaper servo, like a Hitec HS85MG, which will save you $100 or more. The JR servos are NOT cheap.
Ok. Thanks for the information! I'm only building a basic model of an engine with cowl flaps. I was wondering what kind of servo do you recommend for me to buy? (I'm looking for a cheap servo for under $20 and is strong enough to perform with very smooth flaps.) There is also the same amount of flaps in my engine model as yours.
Thanks!
I would give the Hitec HS85MG a try. They almost worked for me, but I needed a bit more torque and some margin, which I didn't hae with the Hitec servos.
Cool...
i gave up the Hitec because of unprovoked failures, too many 645's stopped working for no reason!
Very cool Don!