Fantastic video. I just bought a 1968 Alexis Mk14 today and I’m binge watching every video I can on vintage formula fords. I can’t wait to get out on the track with all of you!!
Superb FFord with nice preparation ! as I'm thinking then working... on my VD RF76, I note for the adapted hose to empty the tank... thanks, more work to do! ! still hoping for a race at Brands from the other side of the channel !
Hello Richard, nice video, brings good memories...I wear one of this things with very little money, so I had to learn...I tell you what I did, you do what you want...the arrival to the carb used to come out, ask Roberto Moreno at Mallory...then you better have the extinguisher charged (I discharged it, I arrived to minimun weight, 3 kgs!) I put some safety wire from the corp to the clamp in the arriving hose. I have one of those twisting pliers, you know, like the Bugatti time, very useful!! and you chek visually if the things are tight. The chassis should be not twisted, if is the case, you always level le front, is with that you brake and get into the corner. Your ball joints must have the same number of turns every were, if not...mmm...look for the reason! I had welding bottles with the system giving the green flame, it makes clean brazings with naked rods, once you master this, your worries about twisting the chassis became very acceptable! If you are twisted, well, not you, your TOTS, you should get a good level, today there is cheap lasers I'm sorry they weren't available at the time. You have to cut the brazings, they are slippery, the rods are only bronze, 1.6 mm, naked, I had Nickel silver, but is not necessary, once you cut them close to the front bullkhead, get a 2x4 and chains. You start cutting at the top two or three, having secured the rear of the chassis, then you try with the 2x4 to twist it in the good sense, if you don't arrive, you continue to cut until you put the front bulkhead in the good position, paralel to the upper piece where the rear suspension is hoocked. Ik you need to change some tubes, you cut them to have the good form with tin scissors, it's easy! Is true the portable grinders of 125 mm diametre, have changed our lives! but you con do it by hand. If you have grinding machine...come on! cut oll those bolts too long! We used to leave half of the bolts in the air in the CV joint, is turning weight, but you can avoid doing that. The brakes have to be hard as the ground, if you push and the brake cylinders move, you should reinforce around the cylinders, as you have aeroequip tubes, the lines wil not swell and you will be able to controle your braking power. In my first race at Mallory I had a big one, and as I was not able to put the rest of the car on the truck, we decided to repair between practice and sunday of the race. There was nothing on the left side, it woudn't go through the first corner flat out, 6.2 was ok, 6.3 6.4 I felt would understeer...ten minutes to the end I wanted to be like every other driver and press both feets to the floor...it didn't pass...at the paddock i realised there was interference between the rolling bar and a tube hoding the pivot of the rocking arm, it was a Royale 26, two years old, it always touched the tube, Rory Byrne had put the holding point at the inner end of the rocking arm and it was slanted, so 6.2 it didn't sway enough to touch, but a 6.3 6.4...look at the next meeting the RP 26, many touch, and the drivers don't have experience on top of that...Rory was learning, me too. The seat with foam is not good, you will fell better your car if you mould a seat with the foam which becames hard. You take two rubbish bags, one inside the other, put your driving suit and seat in the car, then pour water in the bag to fill it up to your shoulders, then you mesure the water volume, knowing the foam I used grow 10-11 times. The first time I did it, I couldn't leave the car, if the suit gets the foam nothing cleans it, I had to cut my ass and put newer clothing... Another thing, now easy to control, you have to finish your race or practice with the same pressure at one axle's tyres, as they work differently they will heat up and mont your pressure differently, but if you have a softer tyre it will brake differently of the other one. Now a days they sale by internet little caps for the tyres which give temperature and pressures all the time for 45€!!! We didn't have them!! Very important to weight the same at one axle, other wise...you will block wheels and have understeer in one sense and oversteer on the other...not funny doing Riverside "S" with a car like that! believe me! I understand why a fellow kill himself braking at turn 9...normally it was flat out. the pressure was around of 14 F 16 R, but as I said, in practice I would keep the pressure in the same axle, when tey cooled down i had 4 different pressures, and those are the ones to start the season next time. Richard, sorry I may be too long, but if my experience will go with me to the cimitery is not really usefull. I race in California a Merlyn 20 I bought crashed, they screwed me. In my second race al Riverside, I decided to stop, i was scared, I couldn't understand how people would take pleasure doing it! Then came some one from the public and told me I was very good...he had done some racing and told me my car was really bad and I had manage to finish the race...I was stonished, I argue the car was good I had bought it from Kastner, at Willow Springs, and then he went to the front and tried to lift one wheel...He couldn't, so he went to the other side and was very, very light!! To shorten the history, one day a friend loaned to me an old head Minister (it needed rebuilding) and gave me his old new model Firestone. I qualified 3/10 from the pole ADF, with new tyres and inboard brakes in the front...In England I bought the RP26 and with old tyres I did the same time than Weaver (3rd) with the new Reynard in the FFord Festival 1981, I was 8th, then start 16, then 8...in the final, I was like 8th again, Wallace with a new RP29 couldn't pass me a few series, they couldn't outbrake me even I was in the outside of the track for my braking, finally some one got impatient and pushed me at Druids, so there is a nice picture of me heading for the barrier, holding my head with my left arm and then the fotographer took a picture and sent it to me saying he didn't know if I was putting my galoches, but I look very sweet anyway...of course! the first thing you think is not to dirty your racing shoes, they could became slippery!! forget the broken toe! Richard, I know the FF, I hope it serves you, or some other lad...good lap!
Hey Stan, thanks for the message. The seat came with the car and the car was imported from the USA. I suspect it was it was locally made by a trim shop a few years ago. Now the old seat is gone, I was struggling with visibility as I was too reclined. I now have Van Diemen seat that’s les comfortable but gives me more support and the position gives me more control.
@@toooldandtooslow Thanks Richard, I had my '70 Caldwell D9 rebodied last year and the fiberglass seat was too tight for my 200lb/5' 11" So I've just laid a leather seat cover over the tank with foam under the forward of the seat but it lacks lateral support. I'm also looking at the Tillett W3 seat which some use. I guess a pro type foam insert seat would be best, but don't feel like I could make it. One other question. What are the most popular dampers that historic FF1600s use over there? I had a set of non adjustable Bilsteins built for me. I gave the shop all the specs, weights etc. but they are no quicker than the old Carreras they replaced. Did you do the FF Festival last weekend? I watched it on the live stream. That Cam Jackson seems very quick. The title of your TH-cam page attracted me because I'm even older than you at 72. I'm still enjoying keeping the kids honest over here. One other thing. As you know our main club is the SCCA but as you may know a few years ago they claimed that the Kent was becoming hard to find so they allowed the Honda Fit engine too. Funny thing now they have fewer Formula F entries and most of the loyal Formula Ford guys have gone vintage racing. The SCCA has small fields of 12 to 15, while the vintage races often feature over 30. I think that's great.
@@stanvann8347 Butting in here.. I got a Kirkey aluminum seat. They make a 'custom' seat foam that you can use.. Basically a plastic bag you tape on the seat frame and have someone pour the foam mix in while your sitting in it.. I tried it with spray foam and it actually worked.. but then within a week, it lost its form.. so if you decide to look into it go with the recommended foam..
![[Live สด] การออกรางวัลสลากกินแบ่งรัฐบาล งวดวันที่ 16 พฤศจิกายน 2567](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wPd7VFfWHIA/mqdefault.jpg)
Fantastic video. I just bought a 1968 Alexis Mk14 today and I’m binge watching every video I can on vintage formula fords. I can’t wait to get out on the track with all of you!!
Enjoy your videos Richard. Keep growing the channel
Thanks, I'm pushing for the 1000 subs
Fantastic build.
Just love this car and I can't believe it's 50 years old.
Veeery nice! Sounds way enough to have good fun!
It's the best fun ever, I have the best weekends of my year at the race track.
Worked at McNamara late sixties early 70. We made almost everything in house, very busy machine shop. This Crossle is a nicely built car.
As a owner/driver of a 1970 Caldwell D9, I enjoyed this video so much. It was needed.
Superb FFord with nice preparation ! as I'm thinking then working... on my VD RF76, I note for the adapted hose to empty the tank... thanks, more work to do! ! still hoping for a race at Brands from the other side of the channel !
Good description! Maurizio, former mechanic Scuola Piloti Henry Morrogh
Hello Richard, nice video, brings good memories...I wear one of this things with very little money, so I had to learn...I tell you what I did, you do what you want...the arrival to the carb used to come out, ask Roberto Moreno at Mallory...then you better have the extinguisher charged (I discharged it, I arrived to minimun weight, 3 kgs!) I put some safety wire from the corp to the clamp in the arriving hose. I have one of those twisting pliers, you know, like the Bugatti time, very useful!! and you chek visually if the things are tight. The chassis should be not twisted, if is the case, you always level le front, is with that you brake and get into the corner. Your ball joints must have the same number of turns every were, if not...mmm...look for the reason! I had welding bottles with the system giving the green flame, it makes clean brazings with naked rods, once you master this, your worries about twisting the chassis became very acceptable! If you are twisted, well, not you, your TOTS, you should get a good level, today there is cheap lasers I'm sorry they weren't available at the time. You have to cut the brazings, they are slippery, the rods are only bronze, 1.6 mm, naked, I had Nickel silver, but is not necessary, once you cut them close to the front bullkhead, get a 2x4 and chains. You start cutting at the top two or three, having secured the rear of the chassis, then you try with the 2x4 to twist it in the good sense, if you don't arrive, you continue to cut until you put the front bulkhead in the good position, paralel to the upper piece where the rear suspension is hoocked. Ik you need to change some tubes, you cut them to have the good form with tin scissors, it's easy! Is true the portable grinders of 125 mm diametre, have changed our lives! but you con do it by hand.
If you have grinding machine...come on! cut oll those bolts too long! We used to leave half of the bolts in the air in the CV joint, is turning weight, but you can avoid doing that. The brakes have to be hard as the ground, if you push and the brake cylinders move, you should reinforce around the cylinders, as you have aeroequip tubes, the lines wil not swell and you will be able to controle your braking power. In my first race at Mallory I had a big one, and as I was not able to put the rest of the car on the truck, we decided to repair between practice and sunday of the race. There was nothing on the left side, it woudn't go through the first corner flat out, 6.2 was ok, 6.3 6.4 I felt would understeer...ten minutes to the end I wanted to be like every other driver and press both feets to the floor...it didn't pass...at the paddock i realised there was interference between the rolling bar and a tube hoding the pivot of the rocking arm, it was a Royale 26, two years old, it always touched the tube, Rory Byrne had put the holding point at the inner end of the rocking arm and it was slanted, so 6.2 it didn't sway enough to touch, but a 6.3 6.4...look at the next meeting the RP 26, many touch, and the drivers don't have experience on top of that...Rory was learning, me too. The seat with foam is not good, you will fell better your car if you mould a seat with the foam which becames hard. You take two rubbish bags, one inside the other, put your driving suit and seat in the car, then pour water in the bag to fill it up to your shoulders, then you mesure the water volume, knowing the foam I used grow 10-11 times. The first time I did it, I couldn't leave the car, if the suit gets the foam nothing cleans it, I had to cut my ass and put newer clothing...
Another thing, now easy to control, you have to finish your race or practice with the same pressure at one axle's tyres, as they work differently they will heat up and mont your pressure differently, but if you have a softer tyre it will brake differently of the other one. Now a days they sale by internet little caps for the tyres which give temperature and pressures all the time for 45€!!! We didn't have them!! Very important to weight the same at one axle, other wise...you will block wheels and have understeer in one sense and oversteer on the other...not funny doing Riverside "S" with a car like that! believe me! I understand why a fellow kill himself braking at turn 9...normally it was flat out.
the pressure was around of 14 F 16 R, but as I said, in practice I would keep the pressure in the same axle, when tey cooled down i had 4 different pressures, and those are the ones to start the season next time. Richard, sorry I may be too long, but if my experience will go with me to the cimitery is not really usefull. I race in California a Merlyn 20 I bought crashed, they screwed me. In my second race al Riverside, I decided to stop, i was scared, I couldn't understand how people would take pleasure doing it! Then came some one from the public and told me I was very good...he had done some racing and told me my car was really bad and I had manage to finish the race...I was stonished, I argue the car was good I had bought it from Kastner, at Willow Springs, and then he went to the front and tried to lift one wheel...He couldn't, so he went to the other side and was very, very light!! To shorten the history, one day a friend loaned to me an old head Minister (it needed rebuilding) and gave me his old new model Firestone. I qualified 3/10 from the pole ADF, with new tyres and inboard brakes in the front...In England I bought the RP26 and with old tyres I did the same time than Weaver (3rd) with the new Reynard in the FFord Festival 1981, I was 8th, then start 16, then 8...in the final, I was like 8th again, Wallace with a new RP29 couldn't pass me a few series, they couldn't outbrake me even I was in the outside of the track for my braking, finally some one got impatient and pushed me at Druids, so there is a nice picture of me heading for the barrier, holding my head with my left arm and then the fotographer took a picture and sent it to me saying he didn't know if I was putting my galoches, but I look very sweet anyway...of course! the first thing you think is not to dirty your racing shoes, they could became slippery!! forget the broken toe! Richard, I know the FF, I hope it serves you, or some other lad...good lap!
Very good.
Great Videos, keep posting
Can't wait for the next one
Looking really good! How durable is the vinyl wrapping in comparison to regular paint?
I reckon it will be just as tough as the paint. I hope to avoid stones and gravel anyway.
What an odd question as it is nothing new and has been proven to be more durable.
@@tipsysmichigander6483 So sorry for not knowing. Hope I didn´t ruin your day totally with my three years old question-
Richard, I really enjoy your videos. I've got a question. Where did you get your seat insert? Are these available from a supplier over there?
Hey Stan, thanks for the message. The seat came with the car and the car was imported from the USA. I suspect it was it was locally made by a trim shop a few years ago.
Now the old seat is gone, I was struggling with visibility as I was too reclined. I now have Van Diemen seat that’s les comfortable but gives me more support and the position gives me more control.
@@toooldandtooslow Thanks Richard, I had my '70 Caldwell D9 rebodied last year and the fiberglass seat was too tight for my 200lb/5' 11" So I've just laid a leather seat cover over the tank with foam under the forward of the seat but it lacks lateral support. I'm also looking at the Tillett W3 seat which some use. I guess a pro type foam insert seat would be best, but don't feel like I could make it. One other question. What are the most popular dampers that historic FF1600s use over there? I had a set of non adjustable Bilsteins built for me. I gave the shop all the specs, weights etc. but they are no quicker than the old Carreras they replaced. Did you do the FF Festival last weekend? I watched it on the live stream. That Cam Jackson seems very quick. The title of your TH-cam page attracted me because I'm even older than you at 72. I'm still enjoying keeping the kids honest over here. One other thing. As you know our main club is the SCCA but as you may know a few years ago they claimed that the Kent was becoming hard to find so they allowed the Honda Fit engine too. Funny thing now they have fewer Formula F entries and most of the loyal Formula Ford guys have gone vintage racing. The SCCA has small fields of 12 to 15, while the vintage races often feature over 30. I think that's great.
@@stanvann8347 Butting in here.. I got a Kirkey aluminum seat. They make a 'custom' seat foam that you can use.. Basically a plastic bag you tape on the seat frame and have someone pour the foam mix in while your sitting in it.. I tried it with spray foam and it actually worked.. but then within a week, it lost its form.. so if you decide to look into it go with the recommended foam..