Hi Ken i have been watching many of your garage videos they really show off your skills with a great easy going style fascinating to watch. I was intrigued by your ladder lift a really great tool, and your home made one is a great design and way cheaper than commercial ones thanks for sharing and look forward to many more garages.
Love it. This looks like something I would build. My only concern is the lack of "soft start", and watch out for galvanic corosion where you have added any bolts through the aluminum. If you could use stainless bolts, that would be good. As a kid, I used common, zinc plated bolts to afix aluminum handles to an aluminum boat. The aluminum, at that location, all corroded away!
Thank you for making this video my man. I am thinking of making one. From the city of Nogales, Sonora, Mexico i watch your channel. Keep up the good videos.
Look's good. It's only 1 to 1 ratio though. You'd have to put a pulley on the sled and take mount the cable back up top to get 2 to 1. Probably doesn't need it though.
I built one of these.. been using it for about 3.5/4 years now..only issue I have is the cable started cutting into the bottom rung.. put another guide wheel on it and problem solved
It looks like there are rollers on the carriage? I'd think it would need them since aluminum-to-aluminum sliding would gall pretty fast and gum it all up. What sort of rollers did you use?
Everyone with experience knows AL galls when sliding on AL. He mentions the wheels early in the video. As mentioned by D Bobby, a wood slider would be less expensive and more flexible in regards to length. Built out of 2x6 fir it would be more safe and do the same job@@lilysunshine3447
Hey. Beware on "doubling up" this didn't use the snatch block to gain mechanical advantage, it was used as a pulley. If it was used as a snatch block you would only get 8 feet of lift on this setup. It's still a "straight cable". Be careful, don't overload.
I think he could could use two "twin sheave" blocks and still get the same height/travel. You only loose a 3 or 6 inches per added sheave. You would double your cable amount and half your speed. Slow speed (or a "soft start" mechanism would probably be a good thing.
Hi Ken, I'm trying to help a friend who needs something like this as they have a bad back. Would you please list or link the items I would need ? I would love to get the items, and find someone that could assemble this (I don't have tools, or the know-how) and then surprise my friend. I think they would be over the moon. 🙏🙏🙏 Thank you again for the ingenuity!
I've built 350 of these and sold them online and one of my videos demonstrate lifting over 550 pounds... the commercial brands are only rated at 250 pounds. I think you can see the video listed on the right, it's had well over 100,000 views
Hello Ken I got everything to build a lift except have trouble finding those ball bearing shoulder washers could you give me details and maybe where to get them thank you in advance, Jeff from Sturgeon Bay Wisconsin
I bought mine from a local hardware store. They have since changed hands and don’t carry as large an inventory now. I don’t know if big box stores would have it or not
roofinghoist.com has links to many videos of a roofing hoist that lifts over 500 lbs and weighs only 70 pounds. Over 350 built since hurricane Katrina. You only have to attach a hoist motor and the platform to you own ladder.
Great idea. My only negative comment is the load capacity. The ladder is only rated to 175 lbs. You need to use a fiberglass ladder for a higher rating. Second is the L metal braces you used for the diagonals are only rated to 25 lbs. Obviously, you exceeded that, but load ratings are something you should not ignore. Solid L metal without holes and slots made with 12 gauge material are what you should use for the diagonal braces. Last, add a cross brace left to right on the diagonal braces. Someone copies your plan and gets hurt can sue you for claiming it can lift hundreds of pounds.
Brian G C Not sure where you get 175lbs from, this 32' ladder is likely rated to 300lbs. Not many guys in construction weigh under 175lbs! Engineering safety ratings are often 1/5th and even less of their tested failure.
And bear in mind, this ladder would have been tested at full 32' extension! With the extension removed, this is only being used at a bit over half that length without the complication of the leverage on the joint.
Yes, I love this, I've saved it for future reference. I want to clarify one thing though, it's not real important since it's not the weakest link in the design but... You mentioned that the winch was rated for 440# but you doubled it. The statement is true but I want to clarify where the 880# is acting in a force diagram. The 880# is at the pulley at the top of the ladder, not at the hook end of the cable in this design. So, assuming the ladder could hold it, the carriage and it's load can only be the 440#. For the carriage capacity to be 880# the hoist and hook would need to be at the top, pulling up on the pulley, carriage, and load.
i9.ytimg.com/vi/l8rKoIPjlC4/default.jpg?v=599b5fe7&sqp=COzorM0F&rs=AOn4CLDKMRlbwXD6z0vmJC3mJBDTShKVuQ This is a link to a garage I built using the ladder hoist.
![[UNCUT] เพื่อไทยดันอุ๊งอิ๊งนั่งนายกฯ หลังเศรษฐาถูกถอดถอน | คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ | 15 ส.ค. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/SpprmDJ6QEE/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi Ken i have been watching many of your garage videos they really show off your skills with a great easy going style fascinating to watch. I was intrigued by your ladder lift a really great tool, and your home made one is a great design and way cheaper than commercial ones thanks for sharing and look forward to many more garages.
Thanks for watching
That makes a job much easier Thanks for sharring the video.
Regards
Eco from Indonesia
Love it. This looks like something I would build. My only concern is the lack of "soft start", and watch out for galvanic corosion where you have added any bolts through the aluminum. If you could use stainless bolts, that would be good. As a kid, I used common, zinc plated bolts to afix aluminum handles to an aluminum boat. The aluminum, at that location, all corroded away!
Thanks
Great idea and simple design - durable; well done
P B I
Thank you for making this video my man. I am thinking of making one. From the city of Nogales, Sonora, Mexico i watch your channel. Keep up the good videos.
Thanks for watching
Great job man. My hoist ladder will only lift 2 bundles and I paid 1200 bucks for it
trying to get my husband and son to make this. Great job!
Look's good. It's only 1 to 1 ratio though. You'd have to put a pulley on the sled and take mount the cable back up top to get 2 to 1. Probably doesn't need it though.
I built one of these.. been using it for about 3.5/4 years now..only issue I have is the cable started cutting into the bottom rung.. put another guide wheel on it and problem solved
Very nice
Very good....Excellent.
Great idea Thanks!!!
I had this idea too but my roof is 35' flat. I'm making a boom at the top.
Great idea, I need to make one. Thank you
Thanks
Man I'm gonna build me 1 .
Thank you!!
Very NICE and simple. Good Job!
Thanks
Brilliant idea. Thanks
Wonderful job, but I wonder the means of attachment carriage and the ladder itself!!! Please let me know if possible.
Do you have a parts list? I like what you have built. I want to build this.
ladder pully hoist
This is amazing
Thanks
It looks like there are rollers on the carriage? I'd think it would need them since aluminum-to-aluminum sliding would gall pretty fast and gum it all up. What sort of rollers did you use?
Can you tell me how you understand aluminums sliding causes gall? Are you a designer or engineer?
Everyone with experience knows AL galls when sliding on AL. He mentions the wheels early in the video.
As mentioned by D Bobby, a wood slider would be less expensive and more flexible in regards to length. Built out of 2x6 fir it would be more safe and do the same job@@lilysunshine3447
At 2:24 you can see the bearings/rollers.
Great idea thanks
Thanks for w
I know a genius when I see one. 🤔
Haha thanks
Cool tool dude
Hey. Beware on "doubling up" this didn't use the snatch block to gain mechanical advantage, it was used as a pulley. If it was used as a snatch block you would only get 8 feet of lift on this setup. It's still a "straight cable". Be careful, don't overload.
I think he could could use two "twin sheave" blocks and still get the same height/travel. You only loose a 3 or 6 inches per added sheave. You would double your cable amount and half your speed. Slow speed (or a "soft start" mechanism would probably be a good thing.
Simple genius
Haha thanks
Hi Ken, I'm trying to help a friend who needs something like this as they have a bad back. Would you please list or link the items I would need ? I would love to get the items, and find someone that could assemble this (I don't have tools, or the know-how) and then surprise my friend. I think they would be over the moon. 🙏🙏🙏
Thank you again for the ingenuity!
Sorry I don’t really have a list. I had to go to the hardware store and find the parts
I would appreciate a parts list
What wench you use(brand & lbs)
I'd real want to build one
Total how much u r spent..
This can be built with 2x4s instead of ruining a ladder.
so cool
Should of put the motor on the other part so you could ride it up with the remote in hand
Can you post plans of this I would love to build one
ben shaffer Why plans it is obvious!?
It looks like it would be pretty light in weight. Good job!
I've built 350 of these and sold them online and one of my videos demonstrate lifting over 550 pounds... the commercial brands are only rated at 250 pounds.
I think you can see the video listed on the right, it's had well over 100,000 views
Great! build thank you.
What is the title of you TH-cam video?@@Terryblount
Hello Ken I got everything to build a lift except have trouble finding those ball bearing shoulder washers could you give me details and maybe where to get them thank you in advance, Jeff from Sturgeon Bay Wisconsin
I bought mine from a local hardware store. They have since changed hands and don’t carry as large an inventory now. I don’t know if big box stores would have it or not
thank you big box didn't have them I'll check local hardware store, I also appreciate you posting this it should help me build my garage!
Forgot to mention, you claimed you doubled up the cable, but it is actually a straight pull design. 1:1 ratio, no leverage advantage.
roofinghoist.com has links to many videos of a roofing hoist that lifts over 500 lbs and weighs only 70 pounds. Over 350 built since hurricane Katrina. You only have to attach a hoist motor and the platform to you own ladder.
What is call motor
I bought it from harbor freight I don’t know the name of it
Where do I get the rollers?
Hardware store has them
Hello sir, How much would you charge me to make me 1. I'm serious
Sorry I won’t be able to do that
Great idea. My only negative comment is the load capacity. The ladder is only rated to 175 lbs. You need to use a fiberglass ladder for a higher rating. Second is the L metal braces you used for the diagonals are only rated to 25 lbs. Obviously, you exceeded that, but load ratings are something you should not ignore. Solid L metal without holes and slots made with 12 gauge material are what you should use for the diagonal braces. Last, add a cross brace left to right on the diagonal braces. Someone copies your plan and gets hurt can sue you for claiming it can lift hundreds of pounds.
Brian G C you’re right. I probably didn’t word it well. A fiberglass Ladder would be nice.
Seems to me that just using another section of the original ladder as bracing instead of the perforated L-angles would be the elegant solution.
Brian G C Not sure where you get 175lbs from, this 32' ladder is likely rated to 300lbs. Not many guys in construction weigh under 175lbs! Engineering safety ratings are often 1/5th and even less of their tested failure.
And bear in mind, this ladder would have been tested at full 32' extension! With the extension removed, this is only being used at a bit over half that length without the complication of the leverage on the joint.
Yes, I love this, I've saved it for future reference. I want to clarify one thing though, it's not real important since it's not the weakest link in the design but... You mentioned that the winch was rated for 440# but you doubled it. The statement is true but I want to clarify where the 880# is acting in a force diagram. The 880# is at the pulley at the top of the ladder, not at the hook end of the cable in this design. So, assuming the ladder could hold it, the carriage and it's load can only be the 440#. For the carriage capacity to be 880# the hoist and hook would need to be at the top, pulling up on the pulley, carriage, and load.
i9.ytimg.com/vi/l8rKoIPjlC4/default.jpg?v=599b5fe7&sqp=COzorM0F&rs=AOn4CLDKMRlbwXD6z0vmJC3mJBDTShKVuQ This is a link to a garage I built using the ladder hoist.