Exactly! Do it right or stay home! I hate when people say "you get what you pay for" and then do shitty work, cut corners and deliver garbage just because they believe they are underpaid. If they do not intend to do it right better not to start, but if they start they should do it the proper way no matter what.
Great videos and attention to detail. These will become the “go to” references for OD gear box overhaul. Looking forward to the next bit as I have a leak to fix between the gearbox and OD plate where the fixing bolts appear to be inside OD with those 8 springs and the pump drive ? Keep up the good work. H
In the next video you will see how Carlos "fixed" this issue before. It is unbelievable. I had to take the plate out and change the gasket so you will see the process
Nice videos. I do have a tip for you. When checking ball bearings instead of spinning them on your fingers, pre-load then in a vice slightly. If there is any defect you will feel the roughness right away as you turn the inner race.
Elin, Just put it in the vice horizontal and squeeze the outer race, it doesn't take a lot of pressure. Any defect will make turning the inner race rough feeling. Ken
Did the unit originally have a gasket between the main casting and the rear casting? If so do you have to account for gasket thickness between the main casting and the rear casting when checking the end play of the 'sun gear'? When you applied your 'Permatex Aviation form a gasket I noticed a bit of a miss on the application to the tail shaft on the part where the flat is in the outside of the casting. I hope it doesn't develope a leak there.
No, there is no gasket between the two castings and the brake plate. I have no idea why, but this is how it was designed. But if there was one, yes, it should be taken into account. A gasket can vary between .005 and .020" so it will affect the endplay for sure. And actually there will have to be two gaskets if you decide to use them so they would change the endplay a lot. You made me re-watch the whole Permatex applying thing twice and I couldn't see what you are talking about. Can you tell me the exact time in the video? Anyways it is too late now, since everything is assembled, but if a leak develops it is going to be your fault, because you didn't stop me LOL
Hey Elin, I was wondering which model of Type A OD you are overhauling? As I got inside my OD, I discovered that it uses different operating pistons and a different oil accumulator. Instead of a housing, spacer tube and single spring, I have a larger piston and two springs for my oil accumulator. I believe my OD is 1374, the earlier model.
Ah yes - it's all basically the same, except for those parts I mentioned. The one difference in operation, should you ever come across one in the future is that the engagement of OD in the earlier models is a little more aggressive - less "marshmallow". There is also a difference in the input shaft nose length, it's slightly too long for a TR6 crank. Oh and one more thing to remember - if you have an old OD, make sure you swap an older TR6 flange sleeve (the part where the throwout bearing rides on) for a newer one. The newer models, after 71 i think, are a little shorter... so you don't get the dreaded "sticky clutch" syndrome!
Hi Elin, great videos. Currently rebuilding my AH 3000 overdrive and this is really helpful. You mentioned what gasket maker you use, can you repeat this please, I'm trying to source it in the UK?
You are now a certified overdrive specialist!!!! Excellent work and attention to detail as usual. Like my father used to say"do it right or stay home"
Exactly! Do it right or stay home! I hate when people say "you get what you pay for" and then do shitty work, cut corners and deliver garbage just because they believe they are underpaid. If they do not intend to do it right better not to start, but if they start they should do it the proper way no matter what.
I LOVE THE ZIP TIE METHOD WELL DONE!
Great videos and attention to detail.
These will become the “go to” references for OD gear box overhaul.
Looking forward to the next bit as I have a leak to fix between the gearbox and OD plate where the fixing bolts appear to be inside OD with those 8 springs and the pump drive ?
Keep up the good work.
H
In the next video you will see how Carlos "fixed" this issue before. It is unbelievable. I had to take the plate out and change the gasket so you will see the process
Big thumbs up for the wiping of the spilled gasket! I can die when i see the red rubber gasket overall the covers...
Great video! Did you use any specific torque on the bolts when you mate the two parts together on the end of the video? Thank you
Nice videos. I do have a tip for you. When checking ball bearings instead of spinning them on your fingers, pre-load then in a vice slightly. If there is any defect you will feel the roughness right away as you turn the inner race.
Thank you! Wow, that makes sense. But how exactly you preload them in a vice? Thanks!
Elin, Just put it in the vice horizontal and squeeze the outer race, it doesn't take a lot of pressure. Any defect will make turning the inner race rough feeling. Ken
OK, I will try thy that next time. Thank you for the tip!
Wow so far so good great work
Thanks!
Did the unit originally have a gasket between the main casting and the rear casting? If so do you have to account for gasket thickness between the main casting and the rear casting when checking the end play of the 'sun gear'? When you applied your 'Permatex Aviation form a gasket I noticed a bit of a miss on the application to the tail shaft on the part where the flat is in the outside of the casting. I hope it doesn't develope a leak there.
No, there is no gasket between the two castings and the brake plate. I have no idea why, but this is how it was designed. But if there was one, yes, it should be taken into account. A gasket can vary between .005 and .020" so it will affect the endplay for sure. And actually there will have to be two gaskets if you decide to use them so they would change the endplay a lot.
You made me re-watch the whole Permatex applying thing twice and I couldn't see what you are talking about. Can you tell me the exact time in the video? Anyways it is too late now, since everything is assembled, but if a leak develops it is going to be your fault, because you didn't stop me LOL
Hey Elin, I was wondering which model of Type A OD you are overhauling? As I got inside my OD, I discovered that it uses different operating pistons and a different oil accumulator. Instead of a housing, spacer tube and single spring, I have a larger piston and two springs for my oil accumulator. I believe my OD is 1374, the earlier model.
Yes, the ones I rebuilt were the later model. I never worked on an early one, but I know that it has some different parts like the ones you mentioned.
Ah yes - it's all basically the same, except for those parts I mentioned. The one difference in operation, should you ever come across one in the future is that the engagement of OD in the earlier models is a little more aggressive - less "marshmallow". There is also a difference in the input shaft nose length, it's slightly too long for a TR6 crank. Oh and one more thing to remember - if you have an old OD, make sure you swap an older TR6 flange sleeve (the part where the throwout bearing rides on) for a newer one. The newer models, after 71 i think, are a little shorter... so you don't get the dreaded "sticky clutch" syndrome!
Hi Elin, great videos. Currently rebuilding my AH 3000 overdrive and this is really helpful. You mentioned what gasket maker you use, can you repeat this please, I'm trying to source it in the UK?
James Amour Aviation Form-a-gasket by Permatex. Hope that helps. Good luck with your Od
Looking great!
You still at part 6? Wow, next time I will be second on your vids!
Elin Yakov I'm watching them in slow motion to make sure you didn't miss anything :-)
HI ELIN ONE JOB AT A TIME FROM BOB IN THE UK IN DERBY 10/10
I have no choice. I was going parallel with both OD's but now I have to leave one behind :)