A watch snob wants the best mechanical horology has to offer, but the problem is that the best is expensive. This video shows how to be a watch snob on a tight budget.
I am a physician of 40 years practice (not poor). Good video for information, BUT... The problem I have had with Rolex, Petek, etc. is they require very expensive maintenance all the time. Why? Because they make money doing so and usually make the movements high beat. As for finish of the movement, it means very little to performance. high beat means service often. Lower beat means rugged and long service life. So a SNOB would say "if you have to ask, you can't afford it". i tell them at the car dealer or A.D. watch seller, "if you have to say that, you are trying to get as much of my money as possible for ego". Watches are either jewelry or time pieces or a combination. They make you neither better or worse as a person. Don't be a snob, be a collector of design and workmanship. Never care what any person thinks but yourself. Still a good video. PS: try a King Seiko or Grand Seiko.
Hey Clark, try some independents' watches. Watches for the soul... www.ahci.ch/members/ . All of the watches you mention are all excellent, but have no personal craftsmanship; and now that Patek has succumbed to silicon hairsprings, they sailed off the end of the horological edge AFAIC. Take care, Bill
I'm the owner of several fairly pricey mechanical/automatic watches, but I bought them in the full realization that they're obsolete technology and come with expenses. We're people that prefer the horse and buggy in the age of the automobile, and horses are expensive to maintain. If I was looking for a watch with long life, reliability, and long service intervals as my main concern I'd probably go for a high end quartz like a Grand Seiko, because it has plenty of jewels to keep friction down, and it has substantially fewer moving parts than a mechanical movement, and the ones it's missing are the ones that typically wear out the fastest. In addition to that: most GS owners will only set the watch a few times per year, so the keyless works is unlikely to wear out, .
@@ge48421I had a seiko sports 100 that was bought around 1984 ,it has a high quality quatz movement and apparently an aged quatz cyristal that makes it very accurate, it has kept perfect time and has never been serviced since it was bought.passed it on to my son now😊
Just my take... 50 year watch enthusiast and frequent visitor to Geneva. Almost all my watches are from one top tier manufacturer whom I have known for decades. Enjoying a personal relationship is important, but equally so is the history behind the firm and the family tradition itself. All my watches actually mark a significant milestone in life, and the story behind them means nearly as much as the watch itself. I never purchase a watch to impress others. The only person I seek to impress is myself. Simple, understated and elegant. - Lifelong entrepreneur and former vice chairman of an airline.
It is great for senior men to give an example in the elegance of living. I have just left hospital and am wearing my watches to tell others I am receiving people again. And it lifts my spirits too.
Indeed Bill. How to be a watch snob on a paupers wage. The Dandy's look most interesting. A while back, Federico also mentioned that Ralph Lauren were utilising JLC movements in some of their models. That has flown under the radar for some time. For a mid range brand, the Longines catalogue is full of surprises. My current daily wearer is a Longines Presence. While it is understated and not the most expensive in their line up, it certainly does have a certain presence lol.
@@watchartsci ..Goodness. I knew someone would ask. I can only describe the face….here goes. Called the Classique…42mm….in various types of gold/platinum…an entire guilloche face….roman numerals …..solid case back….very slim indeed…heavy crocodile straps, tang buckle…….a two hander only; breguet hands, no other complication on the model I saw. They were a thing about 15 years ago. Jolly nice looking, sadly at 42mm too large for me as a dress watch. They were heavily advertised and I saw one in RL on Bond St, London. Came with a Piaget 430 automatic (?) movement. Only second hand today I guess? 🇬🇧
Another great video Bill. It's good to see you having the Harry Winston in the mix with the Dandys. I've been looking at one for about a month now. I think I'm going to have to try to move some money around soon. It's good to see the Longines also. I remember the unboxing, and how excited you were. The Ralph Lauren looks interesting too, but it's only because of the movement. I'm not a fan of Roman numerals. I also have my eye on a Roger Dubuis, a Daniel Roth and a Vincent Calabrese. So many watches so little funds! Best regards, Brian
Had it not been for the Calvin edict in Geneva that jewelry making was forbidden and watchmaking encouraged, Paul, both Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin would have likely been jeweler. Take care, Bill
Thanks Bill for the great video, and as you say some people have champaigne taste but beer budget :D Finding about horology is one of my favorite things to do :D
Well one of your best under the radar watches would be the Girard Perregaux range. Very high end but for no money when you look at the quality. They make their own bracelets as well that beat any of the Rolex or Jeager.
@@watchartsci Gotta say, I like the idea of rich fashion brands buying good movements and putting them in "fashion watches". The depreciation is on the side of enthusiasts :D The RL looks great, but it's a big boy. You better start working out before purchasing.
Good for the horological mind, Steven. Quality and popularly are not the same, nor is the value of a watch truly measured by its price. Like you, I prefer finding horological value where others do not look. 👀 Take care, Bill
Reservoir is producing biretrograde chronographs. They claim to have their own movement, though most of it may be the underlying La Joux Perret L1C0 biretrograde calibre. But skipping over the biretrograde, their main bread-and-butter are the retrograde watches, with retrograde minute hands, jumping hour, and a power meter. Three complications in a watch that costs between a Tudor and a Rolex.
Reservoir is unique in the general application of the jumping hour and retrograde minutes, Brain. Happy to see what they did with the LJP base caliber. Take care, Bill
@@watchartsci I just purchased from ebay in Japan with papers and soft case, one of the booklets have 1889-1989 on the front. The buy price was $5300 AUD. I offered $3000 and the offer to my surprise was accepted. $1900 USD. I’m officially a complication snob now . 👍
It was a Christies auction price (sold for) and that's not much help ... here's one that's close www.chrono24.com/ralphlauren/ralph-lauren-rl-sporting-chronograph--jlc-movement-white-dial-watch-only--id25502122.htm RL with a JLC movement for around $3,400. What do you think🤔 Take care, Bill
@@watchartsci A Patek is only a watch you take care of for the Honduran motorcycle robber duo that will rip it off your wrist at unregistered glockpoint. The Shrek Happy Meal Digital is the height of high horology, except for maybe the Spider-Man Royal Oak. Imagine cutting someone off while they pitch a startup idea to you to beg for investment capital. You roll up your suit sleeve to glance at Shrek, before dismissing the guy with "I'm very sorry, but it seems we've... _run ogre time._ Good day. Security will show you to the door."
Ivan, the "reason" is often the reason of sluggish imaginations and the willingness to follow the other lemmings over the cliff. As H. L. Mencken quipped, "No one ever went broke underestimating the taste of the American public." So off you go with your lemmings, and I'll be more than happy to find value where it really is and not in the price of the watch. Take care, Bill
@@watchartsci A lemming buys a watch from MB&F? If there ever was a watch made for an independent thinker it would be MB&F. But you won’t find them for 5000$. I think the taste of the American public is just fine. Jerry Lewis was a god in France.
@@watchartsci Jerry Lewis was an American icon who crossed cultural barriers thus the American palette is not as bad as you say it is. Be proud of your heritage.
@@ivansmith4242 Thank you for proving my point. I said nothing bad about American tastes ... just no one went broke underestimating it. MB&F is Swiss, but you know that. I can never tell what your POV is ... unclear. But it's yours; so rejoice in it.
I am a physician of 40 years practice (not poor). Good video for information, BUT... The problem I have had with Rolex, Petek, etc. is they require very expensive maintenance all the time. Why? Because they make money doing so and usually make the movements high beat. As for finish of the movement, it means very little to performance. high beat means service often. Lower beat means rugged and long service life. So a SNOB would say "if you have to ask, you can't afford it". i tell them at the car dealer or A.D. watch seller, "if you have to say that, you are trying to get as much of my money as possible for ego". Watches are either jewelry or time pieces or a combination. They make you neither better or worse as a person. Don't be a snob, be a collector of design and workmanship. Never care what any person thinks but yourself. Still a good video. PS: try a King Seiko or Grand Seiko.
Hey Clark, try some independents' watches. Watches for the soul... www.ahci.ch/members/ . All of the watches you mention are all excellent, but have no personal craftsmanship; and now that Patek has succumbed to silicon hairsprings, they sailed off the end of the horological edge AFAIC. Take care, Bill
Thank you. Yes, never buy for others, only what makes you happy. 🙂 Is there a King Seiko with chronometre accuracy? 🙂
I'm the owner of several fairly pricey mechanical/automatic watches, but I bought them in the full realization that they're obsolete technology and come with expenses. We're people that prefer the horse and buggy in the age of the automobile, and horses are expensive to maintain.
If I was looking for a watch with long life, reliability, and long service intervals as my main concern I'd probably go for a high end quartz like a Grand Seiko, because it has plenty of jewels to keep friction down, and it has substantially fewer moving parts than a mechanical movement, and the ones it's missing are the ones that typically wear out the fastest. In addition to that: most GS owners will only set the watch a few times per year, so the keyless works is unlikely to wear out, .
@@ge48421I had a seiko sports 100 that was bought around 1984 ,it has a high quality quatz movement and apparently an aged quatz cyristal that makes it very accurate, it has kept perfect time and has never been serviced since it was bought.passed it on to my son now😊
Just my take... 50 year watch enthusiast and frequent visitor to Geneva. Almost all my watches are from one top tier manufacturer whom I have known for decades. Enjoying a personal relationship is important, but equally so is the history behind the firm and the family tradition itself. All my watches actually mark a significant milestone in life, and the story behind them means nearly as much as the watch itself. I never purchase a watch to impress others. The only person I seek to impress is myself. Simple, understated and elegant. - Lifelong entrepreneur and former vice chairman of an airline.
Alex, if your watches mean a lot to you, no matter what brand or horological quality you've found the sweet spot in watch collection. Take care, Bill
It is great for senior men to give an example in the elegance of living. I have just left hospital and am wearing my watches to tell others I am receiving people again. And it lifts my spirits too.
Harry Winston has some stunning pieces
Vinnie, still overlooked and some great buys available Vinnie. Take care, Bill
Thanks Bill. Being a snob on a budget appeals to both my English and Scottish heritage.
Even better Paul-a connection to your heritage. (Tell your wife... I couldn't help myself; it's my heritage!) Take care, Bill
@@watchartsci yup I’ll that to my repertoire of responses 😉
Love this manifesto of being a connoisseur on a budget.
Maybe that's what it is Tersono-a manifesto. Take care, Bill
Thanks for all that good kind of snobbery
Arent, 'good kind' is the only kind of snobbery I can afford! Take care, Bill
I’m don’t know how to thank you for sharing such quality content here. I really appreciate it.
My pleasure Amir! Take care, Bill
Indeed Bill. How to be a watch snob on a paupers wage. The Dandy's look most interesting. A while back, Federico also mentioned that Ralph Lauren were utilising JLC movements in some of their models. That has flown under the radar for some time. For a mid range brand, the Longines catalogue is full of surprises. My current daily wearer is a Longines Presence. While it is understated and not the most expensive in their line up, it certainly does have a certain presence lol.
Tuna, after getting a Longines I realized how underrated they are. Take care, Bill
RL also uses Piaget movements too. It’s never mentioned though.
That's interesting Mike. Do you know the models? Take care, Bill
@@watchartsci ..Goodness. I knew someone would ask. I can only describe the face….here goes. Called the Classique…42mm….in various types of gold/platinum…an entire guilloche face….roman numerals …..solid case back….very slim indeed…heavy crocodile straps, tang buckle…….a two hander only; breguet hands, no other complication on the model I saw. They were a thing about 15 years ago. Jolly nice looking, sadly at 42mm too large for me as a dress watch. They were heavily advertised and I saw one in RL on Bond St, London. Came with a Piaget 430 automatic (?) movement. Only second hand today I guess? 🇬🇧
@@mikewinston8709 Thanks man!
Another great video Bill. It's good to see you having the Harry Winston in the mix with the Dandys. I've been looking at one for about a month now. I think I'm going to have to try to move some money around soon. It's good to see the Longines also. I remember the unboxing, and how excited you were. The Ralph Lauren looks interesting too, but it's only because of the movement. I'm not a fan of Roman numerals. I also have my eye on a Roger Dubuis, a Daniel Roth and a Vincent Calabrese.
So many watches so little funds!
Best regards, Brian
Hey Brian, I may have devised a way to go broke more slowly in watch collection ... but still going broke! Mend quickly! Take care, Bill
Vincent Calabrese’s watches are undervalued. The problem is that some model cases are small (35-37 mm). But the jumping hour one is a classic.
Good points Amatrice... I'd really like to do something with his CalaSys hairspring replacement. Take care, Bill
Bill thanks again for the informative video. I have a few of the "jewelry" brands and they are fantastic values.
Had it not been for the Calvin edict in Geneva that jewelry making was forbidden and watchmaking encouraged, Paul, both Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin would have likely been jeweler. Take care, Bill
Thanks Bill for the great video, and as you say some people have champaigne taste but beer budget :D
Finding about horology is one of my favorite things to do :D
Doing watch research is the most fun part and the cheapest, Abdul. I don't know why more people don't do it. Take care, Bill
Like your approach. Good channel. Thanks.
Hey Leonardo, thanks, man! Take care, Bill
Perfect definition of what a watch snob really is Dr. Thanks for sharing, and great picks 👍
Hey Javi ... I knew you were a 'secret snob!' (Me-2)😉Take care, Bill
Great video! Very insightful
Glad you enjoyed it Andrew! Take care, Bill
Heya Bill 🤠 . I hope you were a good boy & 🎅 left you some nice 🎁🎁's & Happy New year 🤓 ..
Hi Idletime...no I was not good-ate the coal in my stocking and gained weight. Happy New Year!🥳 Take care, Bill
Well one of your best under the radar watches would be the Girard Perregaux range. Very high end but for no money when you look at the quality. They make their own bracelets as well that beat any of the Rolex or Jeager.
It would indeed Pater! Take care, Bill
Great picks and I actually consider buying H08. The other two are harder to find with good movements, they are mostly ETA.
The H08 is the perfect mix of sport and dress, Black Clock, and it's easy to tell time! I have a hankering for the RL with the JLC movement.
@@watchartsci Gotta say, I like the idea of rich fashion brands buying good movements and putting them in "fashion watches". The depreciation is on the side of enthusiasts :D
The RL looks great, but it's a big boy. You better start working out before purchasing.
@@Big_Black_Clock Whatdoyamean?! Those big watches are my gym! 😉Take care, Bill
Very interesting. You're a wealth of information.
Hey Mike thanks man! Take care, Bill
Excellent video. I love finding these hidden gems
Good for the horological mind, Steven. Quality and popularly are not the same, nor is the value of a watch truly measured by its price. Like you, I prefer finding horological value where others do not look. 👀 Take care, Bill
Reservoir is producing biretrograde chronographs. They claim to have their own movement, though most of it may be the underlying La Joux Perret L1C0 biretrograde calibre. But skipping over the biretrograde, their main bread-and-butter are the retrograde watches, with retrograde minute hands, jumping hour, and a power meter. Three complications in a watch that costs between a Tudor and a Rolex.
Reservoir is unique in the general application of the jumping hour and retrograde minutes, Brain. Happy to see what they did with the LJP base caliber. Take care, Bill
Great title.
Hey Chiller, thanks man.😉 Take care, Bill
Hi Bill, I think you meant to have "metronome" instead of "metrodome" for the Chaumet watch (which is a really nifty piece!)
Do'ah! Yes, Koji! Thanks for noting that ... be a fun watch as a metronome for a maestro! Kindest regards, Bill
Out of 10, what would you score the equation of time complication against other complications like perpetual calendars and the such?.
Good question Shane! I guess it comes down to what makes you smile the most. Take care, Bill
@@watchartsci I just purchased from ebay in Japan with papers and soft case, one of the booklets have 1889-1989 on the front. The buy price was $5300 AUD. I offered $3000 and the offer to my surprise was accepted. $1900 USD. I’m officially a complication snob now . 👍
@@shanereid5663 congratulations 🎉🎊🍾
Interesting video.
For the record, LVMH = Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy
Thanks Cap'in Canuck! Yes, I always manage to foul that up. 🙄Take care, Bill
Damn - where are you finding the LV Voyager for $2400 US? Link me!
It was a Christies auction price (sold for) and that's not much help ... here's one that's close www.chrono24.com/ralphlauren/ralph-lauren-rl-sporting-chronograph--jlc-movement-white-dial-watch-only--id25502122.htm RL with a JLC movement for around $3,400. What do you think🤔 Take care, Bill
Recommended books for learning about Horology from the beginning ?
Hi Philip-start with Ryan Schmidt's "The Wristwatch Handbook:" available on eBay and Amazon or anywhere books are sold. Take care, Bill
Thank You I ordered it today.@@watchartsci
Great video sign me up as a watch snob
Presto! Chango Peter! You are now a Watch Snob!🧙💪 Take care, Bill
-Casio F-91 Obama/Osama Special
-Timex Ironman that Bill Clinton wore
-Shrek® Forever After© McDonald's Watch
-Yo-Kai Watch
😎
Political watches? Interesting Valley Man! Take care, Bill
@@watchartsci A Patek is only a watch you take care of for the Honduran motorcycle robber duo that will rip it off your wrist at unregistered glockpoint.
The Shrek Happy Meal Digital is the height of high horology, except for maybe the Spider-Man Royal Oak. Imagine cutting someone off while they pitch a startup idea to you to beg for investment capital. You roll up your suit sleeve to glance at Shrek, before dismissing the guy with "I'm very sorry, but it seems we've... _run ogre time._ Good day. Security will show you to the door."
@@SFVYachtClub 😅
Stick to unpopular brands and stay in your lane. You won’t find a mb&f for 5000$ unless it needs 25000$ worth of work. Things are cheap for a reason.
Ivan, the "reason" is often the reason of sluggish imaginations and the willingness to follow the other lemmings over the cliff. As H. L. Mencken quipped, "No one ever went broke underestimating the taste of the American public." So off you go with your lemmings, and I'll be more than happy to find value where it really is and not in the price of the watch. Take care, Bill
@@watchartsci A lemming buys a watch from MB&F? If there ever was a watch made for an independent thinker it would be MB&F. But you won’t find them for 5000$. I think the taste of the American public is just fine. Jerry Lewis was a god in France.
@@ivansmith4242 ?🤔
@@watchartsci Jerry Lewis was an American icon who crossed cultural
barriers thus the American palette is not as bad as you say it is. Be proud of your heritage.
@@ivansmith4242 Thank you for proving my point. I said nothing bad about American tastes ... just no one went broke underestimating it. MB&F is Swiss, but you know that. I can never tell what your POV is ... unclear. But it's yours; so rejoice in it.