Thank you for covering this, I love the properties of polypropylene and want to master printing with it! One thing I found that helped on my Artillery Sidewinder was to drop the bed temp to 70°C, it seemed like at higher temps the adhesive on the tape gets soft and let's the part pull it up off the bed too easily. Best of luck!
There is actually a very simple solution with a counterintuitive trick. When you use the packing tape, set the print bed temp to 0 yes ZERO not 90 or 100. The heat loosens the glue (on the tapes) sticking strength. Tape will stick perfectly during the print and the shrinkage of PP is not as much as you would think if the part being printed does not have sharp corners ,or does not have a large surface contact with the print bed (Any shell shaped components print perfect). I have been printing without any problems for years. I also printed fiber reinforced PP and that prints perfect.
yes it warps very well. presumably shrinking quite a bit when solidifying. maybe since it's partially crystalline. One big flat object lifted in the corner from the Anycubic ultrabase/packing tape. I read some packing tape melts so I didn't want to go too hot. Using a raft, it would stick, but does not detach cleanly. With a brim, it forms a smooth shiny surface on the base. One tip I saw in a paper on fluidics was printing with 110% flow for no leaks. They used polypropylene interior part to be in contact with fluid channel and PLA from a second extruder outside to form threaded fittings. Too bad I don't have dual extruder setup. The tip here using small contact area should help a lot with warping. Smaller parts are better.
My tape was pulling up on my ender bed when it warped, So I flipped the metal sheet over and stuck the tape on the metal side and it stopped coming up. I find having the super hot bed 90 degrees works better than at 60 degrees
Whoaa looks amazing. Just got my printer working with tpu using a bontech direct setup with e3d v6. That alone was such a mountain so im gonna print here for a while but im gonna get some of this stuff. Great video keep going bro!
ive seen folks with dual extruders lay down a .2mm layer of tpu then print PP on top and it eliminates the need for the tape and warps a lot less. BTW have you tried to post process the PP to make it clear ?
Awesome video! Been printing a bit with polypropylene (fiberlogy black pp). Love the smooth matte surface finish it gives and that soft to touch feeling like car interior parts. You have covered all but in my opinion the glue on the tape you are using isn't strong enough and that's why your part is warping. I've used 80°C for bed with cheap tape and it did fuse to the tape and made it imposible to remove the bits of the tape from the print, now i gave it a go at 55-60°C and the prints do not fuse to the tape. Also i'm printing with 60/30mms 20mm first layer, brim or raft if it's tiny contact area, fan 100% above 6th layer or so. Retractions are the same i use for pla.
Have you tried sugar water for bed adhesion for me it does wonders works with abs pla petg pet tpu. Here is how you do it 100ml of water in a bottle or cup mix until dissolved 1 or 2 table spoons of sugar. Use a painting brush to spread on heat bed then heat the bed to 60 - 70 degrees C wait until the water has evaporated and the bed is sticky like wet candy start printing.
Try cutting off an even layer of a PET bottle and using it as a 3D printer table cover. Pet and polypropylene can be printed on top of each other, but with little effort they usually come apart. At 100*C - 180*C, the PET substrate should not melt or deform. When the table cools down, the part can be torn off. Попробуй обрезать ровный слой бутылки из пэт и использовать её в качестве покрытия для стола 3д принтера . Пэт и полипропилен могут печататься друг на друге , но при небольшом усилии обычно рассоединяются . При 100*С - 180*С подложка из пэт не должна расплавиться и деформироваться . При остывании стола деталь можно оторвать . Another option is to try reinforced window film, they are sold separately. I somehow tried to heat it with a hair dryer at 230 * C - she didn’t want to sit down at all !!! Ешё вариант - попробуй армированную плёнку для окон , они продаются отдельно . Я как - то пробовал её греть феном при 230*С - она усаживаться совсем не хотела !!! Есть ещё вариант th-cam.com/video/oqjrygzhZkk/w-d-xo.html
Great Video ! i just ordered a small sample of Polyrplene off of Aliexpress just to check out this material.I have also heard that the best way to print this material would be to able to print on a 3mm thick PP sheet. You could probably try that out and print longer without bed adhesion issues.
Print polypropylene easily. Glass or aluminum or steel bed with Zillagrip coating glue allows you to print the most type of plastics and works with a cold bed. Just heat the bed to release. PLA ABS Nylon PETG PP POM PC with one glue coating adhesive.
Thanks for sharing your slicer settings. My prints stick to my print bed really well. I have however these blobs, will be trying to get rid of the by increading my part cooling and changing my retraction settings
Great video I would like to see you print HDPE or hemp filament,and perhaps try using a pellet extruder to print recycled plastic. Thanks for taking the time to share your findings,a true scientist.
Regarding your exploration of materials, do you have some experience with food safe materials? Like the ones one could use for instance inside water well or pump
I hope someone sees this or can help me but I've been trying to print pp on my creality cr10 smart and oh my God I'm on the struggle bus bad adhesion I've spaghettied its been all over the place and I'm desperate for help
Just clicked onto the video, but I’m super excited to watch a video about a different material. I’ve really been enjoying your channel! Keep doing what you’re doing!!!!!!
Thank you for covering this, I love the properties of polypropylene and want to master printing with it!
One thing I found that helped on my Artillery Sidewinder was to drop the bed temp to 70°C, it seemed like at higher temps the adhesive on the tape gets soft and let's the part pull it up off the bed too easily. Best of luck!
There is actually a very simple solution with a counterintuitive trick.
When you use the packing tape, set the print bed temp to 0 yes ZERO not 90 or 100.
The heat loosens the glue (on the tapes) sticking strength.
Tape will stick perfectly during the print and the shrinkage of PP is not as much as you would think if the part being printed does not have sharp corners ,or does not have a large surface contact with the print bed (Any shell shaped components print perfect).
I have been printing without any problems for years.
I also printed fiber reinforced PP and that prints perfect.
so we dont need bed temperature to printing pp?
@@adipurwanto2826 No
What have you used the carbon fiber pp for? Is it decently rigid?
@@paintballercali I used it for light stand structure, aluminum beam connector and other. It is very stiff and has no shrinkage.
@@RamiRouhana nice and it's still holding up a year later?
You should use tree supports and float your models in the slicer to make a very small/sparse bed contact.
I was thinking the same thing, and was also wondering how, or if it would work.
@@jayedwin98020 I am unsure. Please let me know if you try this and it succeeds. I do not currently have this problem but may in the future.
Did anyone ever try this? I was thinking the same thing and wondering if anyone already has relevant findings.
yes it warps very well. presumably shrinking quite a bit when solidifying. maybe since it's partially crystalline.
One big flat object lifted in the corner from the Anycubic ultrabase/packing tape. I read some packing tape melts so I didn't want to go too hot. Using a raft, it would stick, but does not detach cleanly. With a brim, it forms a smooth shiny surface on the base.
One tip I saw in a paper on fluidics was printing with 110% flow for no leaks. They used polypropylene interior part to be in contact with fluid channel and PLA from a second extruder outside to form threaded fittings. Too bad I don't have dual extruder setup.
The tip here using small contact area should help a lot with warping. Smaller parts are better.
My tape was pulling up on my ender bed when it warped, So I flipped the metal sheet over and stuck the tape on the metal side and it stopped coming up. I find having the super hot bed 90 degrees works better than at 60 degrees
Whoaa looks amazing. Just got my printer working with tpu using a bontech direct setup with e3d v6. That alone was such a mountain so im gonna print here for a while but im gonna get some of this stuff. Great video keep going bro!
Nice video. Was the bottle water tight?
Hiwnis it for VOCs and toxicity when printi g, in comparison to PLA and PETG?
What about the fumes? Any harmful fumes?
I like that brand, they make good filaments !
Awesome channel man!!
Very cool video my man
Merci pour l’info
What retraction settings do you recommend when printing polypropylene with a bowden tube? (Ender-3 v2 neo)
Thank you!
What cura profile do you use for you Genius printer?
Hey Chris!
Доброго. Актуально.Доходчиво.Спасибо за труд.Удачи!
Does this filament print well on a ender 3 v2? Or any other printer with a bowden system?
I've printed it on an Ender 3.
@@stevenmcculloch5727 thanks!
not showing any squeezing or throwing :\
🔥👍
I'm thinking a carbon fiber version would be perfect for 3d printed guns.
This guy looks like the corporate boss from Avatar
Maybe you should have printed with a Raft
doesn't work. the raft just warps too and then the printer head collides with the previous layers.
Geez I waited the whole time for you to say pee pee and make a joke about it but it looks like you tried your best to avoid saying it 😭
It was probably the glue on the tape that released when it was heated.
ive seen folks with dual extruders lay down a .2mm layer of tpu then print PP on top and it eliminates the need for the tape and warps a lot less. BTW have you tried to post process the PP to make it clear ?
Awesome video! Been printing a bit with polypropylene (fiberlogy black pp). Love the smooth matte surface finish it gives and that soft to touch feeling like car interior parts. You have covered all but in my opinion the glue on the tape you are using isn't strong enough and that's why your part is warping. I've used 80°C for bed with cheap tape and it did fuse to the tape and made it imposible to remove the bits of the tape from the print, now i gave it a go at 55-60°C and the prints do not fuse to the tape. Also i'm printing with 60/30mms 20mm first layer, brim or raft if it's tiny contact area, fan 100% above 6th layer or so. Retractions are the same i use for pla.
awesome, that's fast
Have you tried sugar water for bed adhesion for me it does wonders works with abs pla petg pet tpu. Here is how you do it 100ml of water in a bottle or cup mix until dissolved 1 or 2 table spoons of sugar. Use a painting brush to spread on heat bed then heat the bed to 60 - 70 degrees C wait until the water has evaporated and the bed is sticky like wet candy start printing.
after using just wipe with wet cloth carefully not get water on the electronics printer should be unplugged.
Try cutting off an even layer of a PET bottle and using it as a 3D printer table cover. Pet and polypropylene can be printed on top of each other, but with little effort they usually come apart. At 100*C - 180*C, the PET substrate should not melt or deform. When the table cools down, the part can be torn off.
Попробуй обрезать ровный слой бутылки из пэт и использовать её в качестве покрытия для стола 3д принтера . Пэт и полипропилен могут печататься друг на друге , но при небольшом усилии обычно рассоединяются . При 100*С - 180*С подложка из пэт не должна расплавиться и деформироваться . При остывании стола деталь можно оторвать .
Another option is to try reinforced window film, they are sold separately. I somehow tried to heat it with a hair dryer at 230 * C - she didn’t want to sit down at all !!!
Ешё вариант - попробуй армированную плёнку для окон , они продаются отдельно . Я как - то пробовал её греть феном при 230*С - она усаживаться совсем не хотела !!!
Есть ещё вариант
th-cam.com/video/oqjrygzhZkk/w-d-xo.html
Great Video ! i just ordered a small sample of Polyrplene off of Aliexpress just to check out this material.I have also heard that the best way to print this material would be to able to print on a 3mm thick PP sheet. You could probably try that out and print longer without bed adhesion issues.
Print polypropylene easily. Glass or aluminum or steel bed with Zillagrip coating glue allows you to print the most type of plastics and works with a cold bed. Just heat the bed to release. PLA ABS Nylon PETG PP POM PC with one glue coating adhesive.
Came back just to say: thanks a lot for the packing tape tip. PP straight up FUSES to it!!! Works like a charm! Thanks!
"It's also resistant to a wide range of chemicals including WATER" yes that is the impressive thing, not its hydrofluoric acid resistance!
Great video! I'm new to 3D printing, so trying to learn everything I can. Your content was well presented and clearly explained. Liked and subscribed.
Magigoo is amazing. When my beds failed to heat this glue came in and saved the day even at near freezing temperatures
Thanks for sharing your slicer settings. My prints stick to my print bed really well. I have however these blobs, will be trying to get rid of the by increading my part cooling and changing my retraction settings
Great video
I would like to see you print HDPE or hemp filament,and perhaps try using a pellet extruder to print recycled plastic.
Thanks for taking the time to share your findings,a true scientist.
Regarding your exploration of materials, do you have some experience with food safe materials? Like the ones one could use for instance inside water well or pump
Polypropylene is the lightest filament as well
Did you try using a Raft? It might be good way to avoid part warping
I was wondering the same thing. As it sticks well to itself, wonder if it stick too well to a raft?
@@alanjones4747 nope. Raft just warps too. I've tried everything and PP is a nightmare to print with.
Sir, how much is your "Artillery" 3D printer?
This stuff should be very hard to print, nice vídeo.
Pp filement benzine dayanıklımi bide op filementi kaç derece ısıya dayanıklı
How about the strength between layers?
I hope someone sees this or can help me but I've been trying to print pp on my creality cr10 smart and oh my God I'm on the struggle bus bad adhesion I've spaghettied its been all over the place and I'm desperate for help
Interesting material👍
Great video as always
Thanks for sharing👍😀
I wonder to know if I could 10Litre 2 layer water galon
What about using a polypropylene build plate?
Just clicked onto the video, but I’m super excited to watch a video about a different material. I’ve really been enjoying your channel! Keep doing what you’re doing!!!!!!
Great video! Thanks for the information.
Brilliant content must try
Another great video, very helpful.
You used the tape method! :D
stop touching your nose
I just rubbed my nose while replying.