This seminar would normally be presented in a live setting in front of an audience. This format is new for our channel - more like a podcast with supporting graphs and images. Watch and let us know what you think!
Freshly graduated in a similar field and have been watching your videos throughout my college career. I love these videos and especially your graduate studies. Thank you for passing on this information! Maybe we will cross paths soon.
Don't know how I missed this when you did it, but I'm glad I found it. I'm a firm believer in feeding the soil. Been doing that with my 2500 sq ft garden for years
I'm a born and bred city boy who always wanted to live in the country. This is absolutely AMAZING! Add to the mix, even the commercials are interesting, focused upon those things that serve humanity. Thank you, Dr. Woods!
Loved the format, would love to see a 201 version the the class that digs solid structure more (mycorrhizal fungi, exudates, etc.). Keep up the great work Growing Deer family!
I have watched every video you put out and somehow, I still pick something up nearly every time. I loved this. I can’t wait for the next one. I feel like I owe you for books and tuition.
This system really works. I am looking forward to advanced classes to learn more to implement into my "Buffalo System" that I started in 2017.. Like you I have learned through mistakes and gaining knowledge through many resources. Your hands on videos were enough to reassure what I was doing was right and gave me tons of input to implement on my small Ohio Property.. I am looking forward to planting this year as each year does get better. My wife and I really enjoyed our visit with you last June and you sharing your time to with us. Thanks Again for this Class... What a great refresher of the many episodes I watched over the past 2 years. Have a Wonderful and Blessed Day.
Cant wait to apply these principles to my property in a week or two just south of you. Been scouting the last few weekends. Found lots of deer activity. Thanks for all of your videos!
Mr Woods thank you for these podcast! I wanted to let you know this is like the 10th time I’ve listened to this now! We try and mimic you in the west ark ouachita’s
Thanks for the great information! Looking forward to implementing it here in n.w. ok. Thanks again & i look forward to learning more about this process.
I liked the format. The extra length in time allowed you to cover the topic in pretty good depth which would not have happened in a 15 to 20 minute program. We will be looking forward to the Buffalo System 202 program.
Great info keep up the good work. Would like so see some info on starting from scratch. Like small food plots an acre or smaller. Step by step for year round plots.
Great vid!! I love the science behind growing good soil..Gabe brown has a great book on audible called dirt to soil and he hits on the all principles needed for regenerative growth and we can use those principles into growing our own paradise! Keep the vids comming!
Excellent presentation, Grant. I consider myself a rank amateur but after watching your videos for the past several years I’m sold on the buffalo system. Would you say cost is the biggest prohibiting factor in getting commercial farming operations to use the buffalo system? I would love to see these big farms in my local Western KY area and elsewhere in the Ohio and Mississippi River valleys use the system for soil conservation purposes.
Ragon - Thanks for your kind words! A no till drill and crimper is much less expensive than most of the implements big farmers use. Most farmers I visit with really dislike change and farm for the crop insurance checks. It's a broken system. I was driving between Paducah and Wickliffe yesterday and saw one farmer that used cover crops and his fields showed no sign of erosion and no weeds! Every other field had been plowed, sprayed (obvious dead weeds) and almost all showed erosion. It's very sad when you understand soil health and ways to improve the environment and reduce input costs.
Grant, My question for your next video is with regards to your perennial fields and burned areas. Have you or others you know used the crimper on early successional fields prior to a growing season burn? What might be the results of this? Would you plant a fall season annual into that burned field before or after the burn (perhaps for quail or turkey in the fall)?
Derek - Vegetation will burn better if it's up in the air and not mashed to the ground. If there's quality native forage there's no need to plant a crop. Native forage is often very drought resistant and adapted perfectly to that site!
I just purchased a 25 acre parcel that joins my dad's 35 acre parcel. About 50% of the 25 acre parcel was clear cut 3 years ago. There's a lot of broom grass, 6-12in pines, and hard soil, bald in some places. I think your buffalo method is absolutely the way to go, and planning the first year of work - spring/summer cover crop to try and get the soil improved. This first run, do I need to disc, lime, and fertilize before planting buckwheat, soybeans, etc.? Every property I've seen either already has native plants or has been worked in the past - my new property has had zero work since it was clear cut.
TGSR - Congratulation on the property! Discing will loosen the top few inches but always compacts the soil underneath where the disc reaches. So - it's 50/50 whether to disc and do damage or know the new crop will start slow due to the compacted soil surface. If you disc, be sure to not disc when the soil is wet or more compaction will occur! We've learned much since we started the Buffalo System and call the more advanced technique the Release Process - as we've learned to release the habitat and herd's potential. Keep me posted on your project!
Thank you a ton for the reply. Do you ever recommend planting some pines or grasses to create cover in open areas? I’m concerned the property is too open and not providing enough cover for deer to travel between properties. My dads 35 is all wooded, my new 25 is basically open - there’s switch grass, weeds, and a handful of trees with slight rolling hills. But I can basically see from one end to the other. Thanks again, huge help.
Great stuff as always, I'm really looking forward to the next video. I'm going to be evaluating the "Cattle System" on some ground that I manage soon, that should be interesting. Question for you - do you do any kind of crop rotation with the buffalo system that prevents buildup of fungus or the like? I've always heard that you don't want to maintain brassicas long-term in the same plot for this reason.
Kevin - Many soil fungus species are very beneficial! They move nutrients and water to plant roots! I often vary the species in my warm and cool season crops and this works as a great rotation!
Hi there, loved the video. I would like to understand better for example once you have made ground cover by crushing the let's say plants down and then you plant your seed of what your cash crop is. So let's say you want to grow seed potatoes or cabbages. Once it has been planted it will come through the ground cover of the plants you crushed? Will the ground cover plants rot right down? Kind regards Mark
Mark - Yes - the seedlings from the recently planted crop will reach for the sun and grow through the mulch or recently crimped crop. Microbes and nematodes (earthworms, etc.) will consume the crimped vegetation but this will take months so it's serves as a weed suppressor and a great slow release fertilizer!
Hi, Thanks for getting back to me. I really appreciate it. So really if you for example are growing wheat for your cash crop once that has been harvested instead of burning the fields you would just simply seed wheat over it? I understand to grow things like carrots, Brussels, potatoes, cabbages etc. You would need to grow the other plants you mentioned to then crimp them so they rot. Would I be correct to say that? Thanks again. Mark
I’m a new property owner and looking for the right approach to my food plots. After watching several of your videos, the Buffalo System is what I’ve decided to go with. I want green beans during bow season so when do you recommend planting in the south central Oklahoma area? Also, what late maturing bean would you recommend?
Jeff - I assist several landowners in Oklahoma. That area has lots of potential! Eagle Seed has the only group 7 and 8 (the higher the group the later they mature) Roundup Ready forage soybeans that I'm aware. I like their Wildlife Manager's Blend as it covers many bases. These beans can be planted as soon as the soil temp is warm enough (60 degrees at 2" deep at 9 am) and still be green during the early bow season! Checkout the following website for soil temps in OK! www.mesonet.org/index.php/weather/map/2_in_sod_soil/soil_temperature
Thanks for your reply. Very helpful info. We have hogs in our region of Oklahoma. By growing the earthworm population with the Buffalo System, I’m concerned they will demolish my food plots. I would love to hear your thoughts on this.
When planting your fall and spring blends do you install the front coulters on the RTP drill to prevent the drill from riding up onto the thatch or standing beans? Are the double disc openers enough to cut through and plant the seed at the correct depth? Thank you for all the great information. It is much appreciated.
So very helpful! If I'm starting with a freshly cleared acre of old woods here in Virginia. What crop should I plant this summer to begin developing mulch?
Sam - There's some variables such as if weeds will be an issue, etc. In general grasses (like sorghum, etc.) make the most tonnage. Remember the roots are as important, if not more than what we see above the ground. I've designed a new summer blend that will be at GreenCoverSeed.com. You may wish to checkout there SmartMix Calculator and create some custom blends for your location!
Let’s go to level 2. I’m trying to figure how to best lay down the first layer of organic matter. Which Eagle Seed Blend would work best to start the Buffalo System on rocky ground in South Texas?
Tyler - Roots and their exudates (the stuff that leaks out of roots) contributes more to organic matter than the above ground. It's hard to understand since we see the above ground biomass. Checkout GreenCoverSeed.com and their SmartMix calculator to research the best plant varieties and blends for your exact area. I use that tool a lot!
What would you recommend to plant as a cover crop in Northeast GA that could be broadcast? Due to invasive species and not wanting to use herbicide, I had to cut part of my plot before the weeds came to seed, got some grasses and native plants about 3" high and would love to get some cover crop growing to buffalo before fall. P.S. I FINALLY got to try my first "stampede" this year in another part of the plot!
Cereal rye is a great cover crop that can be broadcast during the fall and sorghum- sudan grass during the early summer. I prefer blends to capture more sunlight and provide more benefits! - grant
I hired a tree mulching company to make a 1 acre clearing on a ridgetop. I have 2-6 inches of wood chips on the ground. Would you suggest a controlled burn to speed the compost process and plant or let the wood naturally rot in place?
Mark - It will take 2 years or more for 6" of chips to decompose. It's very rare for 6" of mulch to get dry enough to burn. If/when they do become dry enough to burn, be sure there's a very good fire break! You may be able to plant the areas with less chips first and wait on the other portions.
Mr grant I've heard this from you 100 times. I can listen to you 1000 more. I'll get there monetarily later. Great podcast! Boy I would love to see what you can do with our soil in the Ms River delta her in Mississippi.
I live and own about 650 acres of hunting property in southern Louisiana. Trying the buffalo system, but getting resistance from farmers and other land owners. They say I will be able to do the no till drill for a couple years but will have to chop the ground eventually because of how much clay we have. They say my soybean and other planting seed will not be able to penetrate that clay without ground being broken. Is there any proof to this? Have you had experience with heavy clay soil? Any suggestions?
Unfortunately, some farmers are resistant to change. If you have a good fall cover crop/food plot the species in there will break the hard pan and covert the clay to high quality soil. Disking/tillage always reduces soil quality. You may wish to search TH-cam for David Brandt - a very successful farmer in Ohio. By using these techniques he's turned nasty yellow clay into rich black soil! - grant
Has anyone planted corn with the Genesis no-till drill and did you broadcast the fertilizer and leave it on top of the soil and was it a successful crop? I've done some research and it seems that leaving the fertilizer on top of the soil is not as effective as tilling it in and with corn requiring so much fertilizer I'm hesitant to take the plunge on purchasing the Genesis without some knowledge of how to effectively deal with the fertilizer situation especially for corn for my dove food plots. Thanks.
Marc - Folks do plant corn with a Genesis and yes, the nitrogen fertilizer is volatile. However, millions of acres of corn are planted with a no-till annually! As the soil heals, less and less fertilizer will be required! I haven't applied any fertilizer in 8 years!
if I had beans planted should i just leave the dead beans from the previous year stand and plant through them or would it be beneficial to mow them the next year before planting?
How would a modified version of this work on small plots? Broadcast cereal grains and buckwheat in mid July (north central Illinois) in with whatever plot I put in this coming spring?
Aubrey - I believe my assistant, Jamie helped you. I stopped publishing in peer reviewed journals long ago. I can help many more folks using other platforms. There's much information about improving soil health but the best information is from practitioners in the field. Typically they figure out systems that work and then universities confirm. The Release Process is simply replicating natural systems. Let me know if I may be of assistance.
Let's see a version on virgin land that has never been planted, also one for individuals that do not have Drills. Here in Pa, most people have minimum acreage, and cannot justify a drill, or crimper. Maybe a poor man's plot from scratch.
Hey Ryan - virgin land would be very productive - like the prairie was when first farmed! Discing, addition of synthetic fertilizer, etc., degrades soils and reduces it's productivity. We have several episodes about how we use hand tools to establish small plots and most NRCH offices rent no till drills at very reasonable rates! I also hear of a few guys partnering and purchasing a drill so they all can use!
@@GrowingDeerTVThank you so much. Bought my first no till drill. Kasko. Excited to try the summer and fall release systems! Also planting corn and bean soybean relays. Any advice on that front? I am leaning toward tilling just to get enough fertilizer in the ground, but could be persuaded. I will also have e a lot of last year corn stubble to cut through.
Jesse - we put the blend in the drill and then calibrate for the entire blend! Different seed shapes, textures, etc., will calibrate differently. I only use charts or guides as a rough starting point.
It ain't perfect, but I seed into the previous crop, then weed eat creating a mulch layer on top of the germinating seeds...works pretty good and doesn't require all that equipment. More sweat equity, but I work with what I have...wildlife loves it.
I like this and believe it but I’d have to go purchase $50,000 worth of equipment to make this happen. How can I accomplish the same thing on my deer property with a UTV and some smaller implements?
Cajun Jim - We plant several plots each year with a hand seeder, rake, herbicide when needed, and a foot operated crimper. Where there's a will, there's a way!
@@GrowingDeerTV I found your other video on doing small plots after making this comment. I also think I have an idea for a crimper to build that can easily be pulled behind a UTV. Thanks!
@@melissabarrett681 I disagree too a certain extent. The dust bowl occured due too consistent tillage and draining of nutrients from the soil thru crop growth and never feeding the soil thus ultimately killing the soil. I've worked for UGA Crop and Soil sciences for several years and farmed nearly my entire life and have always chiseled, disced, and VTd my soil and in the fall it gets fed with manure and grain straw. Plus crop rotation every other year. Dr.Grant saying we lose ex amount of topsoil each time we till is like saying don't pour that bottle of water out you're wasting water. If tilling wasn't an effective method literally 1000s of row crop farmers would be in big trouble. Feed your soil, plant cover crops, and rotate your cash crops. It's as simple as that.
@@BuckhornConstruction disking destroys soil structure. The way soil aggregates group together creates pores for air and water to move thru. Disking also increases oxygen into the soil. Causes rapid oxidation of soil organic matter. Its causes an initial release of stored nitrogen, phosphorus, and some sulfer, which some see as good. But over the long haul is a neg loss for the soil. Organic matter is created over a long period of time and is a stable source of slow release nutrients and has a huge water holding capacity. Tillage of any kind interferes with that. Adding manure is great for enhancing soild microbial activity, i have used it in large scale ag systems for years. Would just recommend zero tillage. Just surface application. As far as farmers of the past and people who have always disked and tilled, well they did it because they didn't understand the science behind it. The amount of organic matter lost in the average iowa farm compared to the original virgin soils is estimated between 2.5 to 3%. That loss is directly related to tillage and is huge. Grants usage of this system and the term restorative agricultural is scientifically proven. I love hearing him speak about soil conservation and I love seeing the results of his success building soil on rock. Feeding the soil is absolutely necessary.. but soil left untilled will definitely be healthier
@@melissabarrett681 I'm not against non tilling we drill certain crops every year just because it's easier but in all honesty we've drilled soil beans in one field and disked/VTd the other and planted with a 12 row planter and literally no yield difference in the end.
This seminar would normally be presented in a live setting in front of an audience. This format is new for our channel - more like a podcast with supporting graphs and images. Watch and let us know what you think!
Freshly graduated in a similar field and have been watching your videos throughout my college career. I love these videos and especially your graduate studies. Thank you for passing on this information! Maybe we will cross paths soon.
Levi - Congratulations on graduating and I look forward to visiting!
grant
I really enjoy this format
Great format!
Did you do the second one?
Don't know how I missed this when you did it, but I'm glad I found it. I'm a firm believer in feeding the soil. Been doing that with my 2500 sq ft garden for years
I'm a born and bred city boy who always wanted to live in the country. This is absolutely AMAZING! Add to the mix, even the commercials are interesting, focused upon those things that serve humanity. Thank you, Dr. Woods!
Thanks and enjoy!
This seminar will be required viewing for our 2 new employees. Crimper being delivered this week. Thanks Grant! Rob
Rob - Thanks! I hope your crops do well! = grant
Loved the format, would love to see a 201 version the the class that digs solid structure more (mycorrhizal fungi, exudates, etc.). Keep up the great work Growing Deer family!
Thanks!
I have watched every video you put out and somehow, I still pick something up nearly every time. I loved this. I can’t wait for the next one. I feel like I owe you for books and tuition.
Dan - I'm glad you enjoy as we learn together! grant
This was almost like a virtual "Field Day" at The Proving Grounds!" Awesome video and can't wait for Buffalo System Class 201!
Thanks for the kind words!
I am so ready for the next level
Very educational and informative. Dr. Grant is an awesome virtual mentor. I have been following him for years. Thanks for helping us landowners.
Bob - Thanks for sharing the kind words! - grant
This system really works. I am looking forward to advanced classes to learn more to implement into my "Buffalo System" that I started in 2017..
Like you I have learned through mistakes and gaining knowledge through many resources. Your hands on videos were enough to reassure what I was doing was right and gave me tons of input to implement on my small Ohio Property..
I am looking forward to planting this year as each year does get better.
My wife and I really enjoyed our visit with you last June and you sharing your time to with us.
Thanks Again for this Class... What a great refresher of the many episodes I watched over the past 2 years.
Have a Wonderful and Blessed Day.
Mark - I hope you are well and look forward to your observations from your plots! - grant
Level 2 seminar please! This info is absolutely incredible, I love everything you stand for. God bless!
Late this winter!
It's late this winter and where is the 2nd seminar?
Its almost next winter. Is there going to be another one?
Cant wait to apply these principles to my property in a week or two just south of you. Been scouting the last few weekends. Found lots of deer activity. Thanks for all of your videos!
Spencer - Sounds like you will have a great season!
Great stuff GD team!!! Can’t wait for Buffalo System 102!!! God bless you and yours!
Thanks! You too!
Excellent presentation. Would definitely watch additional videos. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Bill!
Excellent information, Grant. I hope you’ll continue this format to the next level. Thank you
That's the plan!
This video is absolutely great. Very informative and easy to understand.
Thanks Caleb!
Mr Woods thank you for these podcast! I wanted to let you know this is like the 10th time I’ve listened to this now! We try and mimic you in the west ark ouachita’s
Eric - Let me know how your plots are going!
Thanks for the great information! Looking forward to implementing it here in n.w. ok. Thanks again & i look forward to learning more about this process.
Richard! More soon!
More please!! Love this stuff!! Great information!! Thank you! 🙏 🙏 🙏
More to come!
Thanks the information, It will allow me to start my land preservation and habitat formation in the right track!
Tarzan - Enjoy - improving land is a great feeling!
Info like this is priceless and I would watch more of this content. Thank you for all the hard work.
I appreciate your kind words!
I just want to say thank you for your advice it has helped me the last 2 years. So thanks a lot.
Thanks for watching! - grant
Keep them coming. I give this a big HELL YEAH!!!!
Thanks Aaron!
Great information!! Looking forward to the next episode, level 2.
Thanks Jesse!
I liked the format. The extra length in time allowed you to cover the topic in pretty good depth which would not have happened in a 15 to 20 minute program. We will be looking forward to the Buffalo System 202 program.
Thanks Tom!
Great info keep up the good work. Would like so see some info on starting from scratch. Like small food plots an acre or smaller. Step by step for year round plots.
We'll share that soon! I'm waiting for a crop to mature in one of my small plots! - grant
Great video on the system you use. Been very interested in how you had this set up. I’ll keep an eye out for the next class
Thanks Brian!
Nice video, going to be planting a summer plot this long weekend in Ontario Canada
Adam - Great! Enjoy creation - grant
Great vid!! I love the science behind growing good soil..Gabe brown has a great book on audible called dirt to soil and he hits on the all principles needed for regenerative growth and we can use those principles into growing our own paradise! Keep the vids comming!
Mike - Gabe's book is very good! Gabe is a pioneer in improving soil health and reducing input costs!
I know this was a yr ago Grant but I really enjoyed this. Will look at GrowingDeer to see if Buffalo 2.0 is out. Thanks
Keith - We'll be sharing a lot about our processes and techniques this spring!
Thank you for the lesson.
Juan - Thanks for watching!
Great stuff! Grant, you said the second video would be a 202 college course. I'm looking forward to the 2 hour second video!
John - We are working on 202!
Very interesting and informative. Look forward for more. Thanks
Thanks Terry! Stay tuned!
Just watched your video and I really enjoyed it. Great system, I have used s similar system but I need one of the crimpers now.
Scott - The Goliath Crimpers are a great tool! Checkout RTPOutdoors.com for more information.
Great educational video, please do more
We will!
Yep, been there, done that! Trying to get it baby smooth. Lol. Gonna try a no till option this year
Let me know how it goes! - grant
Wonderful video, very informative!!
Thanks!
Thanks for doing this! Very helpful!
Thanks!
I liked it keep up the good work love your vids
Thanks!
This was awsome. Good principles to steer by
Thanks!
Great stuff - more please!
Thanks!
Excellent presentation, Grant. I consider myself a rank amateur but after watching your videos for the past several years I’m sold on the buffalo system. Would you say cost is the biggest prohibiting factor in getting commercial farming operations to use the buffalo system? I would love to see these big farms in my local Western KY area and elsewhere in the Ohio and Mississippi River valleys use the system for soil conservation purposes.
Ragon - Thanks for your kind words! A no till drill and crimper is much less expensive than most of the implements big farmers use. Most farmers I visit with really dislike change and farm for the crop insurance checks. It's a broken system. I was driving between Paducah and Wickliffe yesterday and saw one farmer that used cover crops and his fields showed no sign of erosion and no weeds! Every other field had been plowed, sprayed (obvious dead weeds) and almost all showed erosion. It's very sad when you understand soil health and ways to improve the environment and reduce input costs.
Grant,
My question for your next video is with regards to your perennial fields and burned areas.
Have you or others you know used the crimper on early successional fields prior to a growing season burn? What might be the results of this? Would you plant a fall season annual into that burned field before or after the burn (perhaps for quail or turkey in the fall)?
Derek - Vegetation will burn better if it's up in the air and not mashed to the ground. If there's quality native forage there's no need to plant a crop. Native forage is often very drought resistant and adapted perfectly to that site!
I just purchased a 25 acre parcel that joins my dad's 35 acre parcel. About 50% of the 25 acre parcel was clear cut 3 years ago. There's a lot of broom grass, 6-12in pines, and hard soil, bald in some places. I think your buffalo method is absolutely the way to go, and planning the first year of work - spring/summer cover crop to try and get the soil improved. This first run, do I need to disc, lime, and fertilize before planting buckwheat, soybeans, etc.? Every property I've seen either already has native plants or has been worked in the past - my new property has had zero work since it was clear cut.
TGSR - Congratulation on the property! Discing will loosen the top few inches but always compacts the soil underneath where the disc reaches. So - it's 50/50 whether to disc and do damage or know the new crop will start slow due to the compacted soil surface. If you disc, be sure to not disc when the soil is wet or more compaction will occur! We've learned much since we started the Buffalo System and call the more advanced technique the Release Process - as we've learned to release the habitat and herd's potential. Keep me posted on your project!
Thank you a ton for the reply. Do you ever recommend planting some pines or grasses to create cover in open areas? I’m concerned the property is too open and not providing enough cover for deer to travel between properties. My dads 35 is all wooded, my new 25 is basically open - there’s switch grass, weeds, and a handful of trees with slight rolling hills. But I can basically see from one end to the other. Thanks again, huge help.
Next level for sure!!
Thanks Jamon!
Loved it. I’m ready for 202!
Me too!
Good stuff! Can't wait to see next class. :-)
Soon!
Loved it. Thank you so much for all the great information. Keep it coming :)
Thanks Doug!
Thanks for all the information. I’m interested in the next Buffalo system class, if you decide to do it. Thanks again...
Buck - We are working on the 202 class!
Great stuff as always, I'm really looking forward to the next video. I'm going to be evaluating the "Cattle System" on some ground that I manage soon, that should be interesting. Question for you - do you do any kind of crop rotation with the buffalo system that prevents buildup of fungus or the like? I've always heard that you don't want to maintain brassicas long-term in the same plot for this reason.
Kevin - Many soil fungus species are very beneficial! They move nutrients and water to plant roots! I often vary the species in my warm and cool season crops and this works as a great rotation!
Hi there, loved the video. I would like to understand better for example once you have made ground cover by crushing the let's say plants down and then you plant your seed of what your cash crop is. So let's say you want to grow seed potatoes or cabbages. Once it has been planted it will come through the ground cover of the plants you crushed? Will the ground cover plants rot right down? Kind regards Mark
Mark - Yes - the seedlings from the recently planted crop will reach for the sun and grow through the mulch or recently crimped crop. Microbes and nematodes (earthworms, etc.) will consume the crimped vegetation but this will take months so it's serves as a weed suppressor and a great slow release fertilizer!
Hi,
Thanks for getting back to me. I really appreciate it. So really if you for example are growing wheat for your cash crop once that has been harvested instead of burning the fields you would just simply seed wheat over it?
I understand to grow things like carrots, Brussels, potatoes, cabbages etc. You would need to grow the other plants you mentioned to then crimp them so they rot. Would I be correct to say that? Thanks again. Mark
I’m a new property owner and looking for the right approach to my food plots. After watching several of your videos, the Buffalo System is what I’ve decided to go with. I want green beans during bow season so when do you recommend planting in the south central Oklahoma area? Also, what late maturing bean would you recommend?
Jeff - I assist several landowners in Oklahoma. That area has lots of potential! Eagle Seed has the only group 7 and 8 (the higher the group the later they mature) Roundup Ready forage soybeans that I'm aware. I like their Wildlife Manager's Blend as it covers many bases. These beans can be planted as soon as the soil temp is warm enough (60 degrees at 2" deep at 9 am) and still be green during the early bow season! Checkout the following website for soil temps in OK!
www.mesonet.org/index.php/weather/map/2_in_sod_soil/soil_temperature
Thanks for your reply. Very helpful info. We have hogs in our region of Oklahoma. By growing the earthworm population with the Buffalo System, I’m concerned they will demolish my food plots. I would love to hear your thoughts on this.
next level
When planting your fall and spring blends do you install the front coulters on the RTP drill to prevent the drill from riding up onto the thatch or standing beans? Are the double disc openers enough to cut through and plant the seed at the correct depth? Thank you for all the great information. It is much appreciated.
James - Great question! The answer depends on how much thatch there is. I error on the side of leaving the front coulters on!
So very helpful! If I'm starting with a freshly cleared acre of old woods here in Virginia. What crop should I plant this summer to begin developing mulch?
Sam - There's some variables such as if weeds will be an issue, etc. In general grasses (like sorghum, etc.) make the most tonnage. Remember the roots are as important, if not more than what we see above the ground. I've designed a new summer blend that will be at GreenCoverSeed.com. You may wish to checkout there SmartMix Calculator and create some custom blends for your location!
@@GrowingDeerTV Amazing! thank you!
Yes! lets do Buffalo method 202!
Jason - Ok!
Let’s go to level 2. I’m trying to figure how to best lay down the first layer of organic matter. Which Eagle Seed Blend would work best to start the Buffalo System on rocky ground in South Texas?
Tyler - Roots and their exudates (the stuff that leaks out of roots) contributes more to organic matter than the above ground. It's hard to understand since we see the above ground biomass. Checkout GreenCoverSeed.com and their SmartMix calculator to research the best plant varieties and blends for your exact area. I use that tool a lot!
Love the vids
Thanks!
What would you recommend to plant as a cover crop in Northeast GA that could be broadcast? Due to invasive species and not wanting to use herbicide, I had to cut part of my plot before the weeds came to seed, got some grasses and native plants about 3" high and would love to get some cover crop growing to buffalo before fall.
P.S. I FINALLY got to try my first "stampede" this year in another part of the plot!
Cereal rye is a great cover crop that can be broadcast during the fall and sorghum- sudan grass during the early summer. I prefer blends to capture more sunlight and provide more benefits! - grant
I hired a tree mulching company to make a 1 acre clearing on a ridgetop. I have 2-6 inches of wood chips on the ground. Would you suggest a controlled burn to speed the compost process and plant or let the wood naturally rot in place?
Mark - It will take 2 years or more for 6" of chips to decompose. It's very rare for 6" of mulch to get dry enough to burn. If/when they do become dry enough to burn, be sure there's a very good fire break! You may be able to plant the areas with less chips first and wait on the other portions.
Would love to hear more!!! I really enjoy the content!!!
We are working on the second course - grant
In your trials did you see any difference between drilling then crimping or crimping then drilling in the direction you crimped?
Mike - I strongly prefer planting first then drilling for several reasons! grant
Love the basics! ... but would love some more advanced stuff then like this like you mentioned.
Stay tuned!
Mr grant I've heard this from you 100 times. I can listen to you 1000 more. I'll get there monetarily later. Great podcast! Boy I would love to see what you can do with our soil in the Ms River delta her in Mississippi.
The Delta soils can be super productive!
I live and own about 650 acres of hunting property in southern Louisiana. Trying the buffalo system, but getting resistance from farmers and other land owners. They say I will be able to do the no till drill for a couple years but will have to chop the ground eventually because of how much clay we have. They say my soybean and other planting seed will not be able to penetrate that clay without ground being broken.
Is there any proof to this? Have you had experience with heavy clay soil? Any suggestions?
Unfortunately, some farmers are resistant to change. If you have a good fall cover crop/food plot the species in there will break the hard pan and covert the clay to high quality soil. Disking/tillage always reduces soil quality. You may wish to search TH-cam for David Brandt - a very successful farmer in Ohio. By using these techniques he's turned nasty yellow clay into rich black soil! - grant
Has anyone planted corn with the Genesis no-till drill and did you broadcast the fertilizer and leave it on top of the soil and was it a successful crop? I've done some research and it seems that leaving the fertilizer on top of the soil is not as effective as tilling it in and with corn requiring so much fertilizer I'm hesitant to take the plunge on purchasing the Genesis without some knowledge of how to effectively deal with the fertilizer situation especially for corn for my dove food plots. Thanks.
Marc - Folks do plant corn with a Genesis and yes, the nitrogen fertilizer is volatile. However, millions of acres of corn are planted with a no-till annually! As the soil heals, less and less fertilizer will be required! I haven't applied any fertilizer in 8 years!
if I had beans planted should i just leave the dead beans from the previous year stand and plant through them or would it be beneficial to mow them the next year before planting?
Justin - Leaving the dead beans is fine.. There's no need to spend the time mowing the dead stems. If there are weeds you'll need to address them.
Nice. The Liquid Carbon Pathway. Dr Christine Jones
Dr. Jones is brilliant! I enjoy learning from her.
@@GrowingDeerTV Good stuff, and I assume you have watched Walter Jehne
Please do the grad school episode! I have become addicted o regenerative Ag and the likes of Ray Archuletta Dave Brandt and you as well!
Chris - Thanks! We work on this soon! - grant
How would a modified version of this work on small plots? Broadcast cereal grains and buckwheat in mid July (north central Illinois) in with whatever plot I put in this coming spring?
Michael - Seeds need to make contract with the soil which is difficult if there's much duff covering the soil.
Can you plant Corn and Soybeans at the same time in the spring, then plant your fall seed before the Soybeans flower and not damage your corn crop?
Ken - Maybe by broadcasting but a drill will likely harm standing corn.
Do you have any of this data in a document format? Peer reviewed?
Aubrey - I believe my assistant, Jamie helped you. I stopped publishing in peer reviewed journals long ago. I can help many more folks using other platforms. There's much information about improving soil health but the best information is from practitioners in the field. Typically they figure out systems that work and then universities confirm. The Release Process is simply replicating natural systems. Let me know if I may be of assistance.
Let's see a version on virgin land that has never been planted, also one for individuals that do not have Drills. Here in Pa, most people have minimum acreage, and cannot justify a drill, or crimper. Maybe a poor man's plot from scratch.
Hey Ryan - virgin land would be very productive - like the prairie was when first farmed! Discing, addition of synthetic fertilizer, etc., degrades soils and reduces it's productivity. We have several episodes about how we use hand tools to establish small plots and most NRCH offices rent no till drills at very reasonable rates! I also hear of a few guys partnering and purchasing a drill so they all can use!
Is another session of this available?
Brian - There are several videos about the Buffalo System on this channel.
Do you terminate the Milo sunflower and buckwheat, or just broadcast/drill in your fall blend?
I usually drill into the standing summer crop with the Fall Release Blend.
@@GrowingDeerTVThank you so much. Bought my first no till drill. Kasko. Excited to try the summer and fall release systems!
Also planting corn and bean soybean relays. Any advice on that front? I am leaning toward tilling just to get enough fertilizer in the ground, but could be persuaded. I will also have e a lot of last year corn stubble to cut through.
When calibrating, what seed size are you calibrating for when all different seed sizes?
Jesse - we put the blend in the drill and then calibrate for the entire blend! Different seed shapes, textures, etc., will calibrate differently. I only use charts or guides as a rough starting point.
Hey Grant if i can't afford these drills how can I still do plots without tilling
Bart - There are lots of variables! In addition, many local NRCS offices rent drills!
It ain't perfect, but I seed into the previous crop, then weed eat creating a mulch layer on top of the germinating seeds...works pretty good and doesn't require all that equipment. More sweat equity, but I work with what I have...wildlife loves it.
@@paulsell2438 yeah I've got a tractor and tiller but I'd like to get away from tilling but those machines are expensive lol
do yall feed protiene during the summer
Mason - We don't use any supplemental feed. It's much less expensive to grow quality protein with plots and native vegetation!
@@GrowingDeerTV oh ok
Do you have issues with Grubs eating the roots of crops?
Jerrid - No. This works to reduce that issue. Grubs prefer the cereal rye roots to soybeans so it protects the next crop!
@@GrowingDeerTV thanks for the quick reply
Where do you buy these crimpers
Gramp and Rich - Checkout RTPOutdoors.com
Thought you should keep your cereal grains no more then 6inches high
Wayne - I want as much food as can be grown! In addition, more biomass does a much better job of suppressing weeds!
I like this and believe it but I’d have to go purchase $50,000 worth of equipment to make this happen. How can I accomplish the same thing on my deer property with a UTV and some smaller implements?
Cajun Jim - We plant several plots each year with a hand seeder, rake, herbicide when needed, and a foot operated crimper. Where there's a will, there's a way!
@@GrowingDeerTV I found your other video on doing small plots after making this comment. I also think I have an idea for a crimper to build that can easily be pulled behind a UTV. Thanks!
What if you disc but feed with organic matter such as cows manure and straw?
Disking hurts the soil. Just apply to top.
@@melissabarrett681 I disagree too a certain extent. The dust bowl occured due too consistent tillage and draining of nutrients from the soil thru crop growth and never feeding the soil thus ultimately killing the soil. I've worked for UGA Crop and Soil sciences for several years and farmed nearly my entire life and have always chiseled, disced, and VTd my soil and in the fall it gets fed with manure and grain straw. Plus crop rotation every other year. Dr.Grant saying we lose ex amount of topsoil each time we till is like saying don't pour that bottle of water out you're wasting water. If tilling wasn't an effective method literally 1000s of row crop farmers would be in big trouble. Feed your soil, plant cover crops, and rotate your cash crops. It's as simple as that.
@@BuckhornConstruction disking destroys soil structure. The way soil aggregates group together creates pores for air and water to move thru. Disking also increases oxygen into the soil. Causes rapid oxidation of soil organic matter. Its causes an initial release of stored nitrogen, phosphorus, and some sulfer, which some see as good. But over the long haul is a neg loss for the soil.
Organic matter is created over a long period of time and is a stable source of slow release nutrients and has a huge water holding capacity. Tillage of any kind interferes with that.
Adding manure is great for enhancing soild microbial activity, i have used it in large scale ag systems for years. Would just recommend zero tillage. Just surface application.
As far as farmers of the past and people who have always disked and tilled, well they did it because they didn't understand the science behind it. The amount of organic matter lost in the average iowa farm compared to the original virgin soils is estimated between 2.5 to 3%. That loss is directly related to tillage and is huge.
Grants usage of this system and the term restorative agricultural is scientifically proven. I love hearing him speak about soil conservation and I love seeing the results of his success building soil on rock.
Feeding the soil is absolutely necessary.. but soil left untilled will definitely be healthier
@@melissabarrett681 I'm not against non tilling we drill certain crops every year just because it's easier but in all honesty we've drilled soil beans in one field and disked/VTd the other and planted with a 12 row planter and literally no yield difference in the end.
@@BuckhornConstruction takes years to build soil structure. Not an instant thing.
I am up for a 201 video Series
Thanks for watching!