Thanks for this guide, because of wear and tear some of my Roccat Vulcan switches starting failing and this helped massively. Tore down the keyboard and replaced the affected switches and now everything works again. Again much thanks!
@@h4x3_ yes I had to desoder the old switches. Then I had to get them out from the platine. I replaced them with a new switch and had to resoder the holes I produced before
hi, thanks for the video. do you need to deassemble entire keyboard to take out a switch? my shift is getting stuck and i want to remove it and look what needs cleaning so that it moves normally
Watching this video for hints on getting a Vulcan TKL Pro open for cleaning after my son dropped half a cup of tea into it. Why do they hide the screws behind the feet and the label? Seems like anti-repairability bastardry to me.
no i think it is to have a more clean design, honestly i thought it was common knowledge nowadays that maufacturers do this, especial since they do this for years if not decades now...
@TheFlow2006 8 of the 11 screws are just in normal open holes. Two are behind the serial number sticker and one is out of alignment with the others in its line just to make it go behind a rubber foot. This isn't an appearance thing, it's an anti-repair thing.
I agree, they are very good for browns. What I like the most of them in the fast "spring-up" time, which is way better on the Titan's than on Cherry browns.
Thanks for the guide. I have a Vulvan Pro I wanted to mod a hit and thought it was just the 3 visible screws + the 2 under the flip-up stands and was wondering what was going on. I guess I know why I can't get it apart now 😢
So I've had the vulcan since it came out, ive been having issues for about 2 years now, having to take apart the keys that stop working and remove dust/hairs from the switches one by one, I've been wondering if I were to change the switches but keep the origional key caps would i have better tolerences on the gap around the switch with some OEM Gateron or MX switches? or is the issue down to the weird top only Roccat keycap the keyboard came with. I've always assumed the key cap just doesn't provide enough dust ingress protection due to not going down over the side of the switch, any feedback is welcome, im 50/50 on wether to throw away/replace the keyboard at this point as missing keystrokes is realllllly bad for gaming and even worse for typing.
Thx i sadly feel like i need to open my keyboard to replace the arrow up key as it keep crapping out when held down. So for almost all games... It just stops accepting input for some reason. Also the numpad led is almost dead so the quality of the leds is terrible.
Did u replace it? And did it help actually? Because my W starts Makin problems... Won't take input some times ... Well, I just cleaned it from outside and hope for the best that some hairs or dust fucked the connection somehow...
@@sebastianleister355 no i ended up buying a new one as key after key started to not respond 100% reliable. i still have it for a rainy day project. i feel it might actualy be dust that gets in the switches as even switches that i barely use are suffering from it. i got the laser version now.
sad i tried to remove the switches but they are kind of glued to the circuit board therefore i kind of damaged a connector and no longer have a functioning right ctrl key
I have questions. Are there any other switch that is as close to the titan brown switches? Because I love the tactile feeling they give, but have no idea if there are other switches that are the same, but that I can buy in bulk. Don't really see myself buying tons of Vulcans to steal the switches.
Awesome Content and very easy Guide if someone really tries to follow your steps one by one. Subbed ! Hope you keep having fun with doing more Videos in the future and i wish you more and more success !
Actually, I am a successful "corporate guy" that is just a techie to the core, so this is why I have no pressure to do videos and I do them to help users (not to make a buck) and this is why it is actually real fun for me to make these when i see clear helping value (vs commercial value). Thanks for feedback, i appreciate.
Hiya, i was wondering if you can swap the keycaps on these keyboards and if yes which would you say are the best, considering steelseries prisms, thanks for the help
I'm using Roccat 121 AIMO and my keyboard has one switch is broken the switch stem ("plus" thing), it is red switch. Where do i can buy this Roccat switch for replacing?
I liked the roccat brown switches on this keyboard, but I absolutely hated the keycaps, as I found them unstable. I also didn't have any problems fitting the "normal" keycaps I have. Replacing switches on this keyboard with soldering is a bit too much of a bother, I think. It is indeed much easier if you have a desoldering tool (and know what are you doing), but if you don't and you would only need the tool a few times, not sure how good investment it is really. With plenty of hot swap boards available, it is much easier to just buy and place any switches you like.
You are absolutely correct, I got many hot swappables from Drop, Glorious, Keychrons and all, so hot swappable for the win. I absolutely love my Keychron V5, as it is lighter and 1800 format, so it is light and complete for business travel and is QMK compatible, so customizable to your heart content.
Hey thank you for the vid! I'm doing the same, but I can't seem to desolder the switches even using high temps such as 380. Any tips? I don't have a gun, I have a normal iron, soldering wick, and a solder pump
Iron , wick and pump is slow and difficult. The only thing that can help is to use flux. Use " no clean flux"... Other than that, it's a game of patience.
@@cac2244 thanks! yeah, it took awhile. Do you think it is possible to change the wire from the PCB to USB-A into a pcb to usb c port? I'm a bit unfamiliar with what I would even be looking for, but you seem very insightful! Thanks for all your help. BIg help in disassembling.
I have the Roccat Vulcan too but one button isnt working idk if its the fault of the switches i bought this keyboard a week ago for my birthday im just sad because now the keyboard is 159Euro and i bough it for 122Euro i dont know what to do you think if i change the switch it will work?
I replaced mine not because of faulty switches but because it was a fun project. If you hate it, do yourself a favor and get a hot swappable Keychron or Glorious.
i don't think the preference of tactile over clicky is a region thing. it's the fact that many people who are into mechanical keyboards also game a lot. and you rarely see gamers using clicky switches.
Great video! Do you have any recommendations on keycaps to use with the roccat stabilizers? HyperX and Glorious Keycaps are too large on thr stabilizer connections, so the space bar is way too lose :(
I dont know if you figured ths out yet, assuming you probably did, but unfortunately no. You would need to still fully take off the bottom part with screws to even replace one switch.
@@Cloutair thank you i contact roccat support for this issue the switch was going crazy with the lights and they replaced me it with a new one they are a great support tbh
nice video, so my wasd keys and the shift key are dying on me, is it possible to replace them with a normal soldering iron? do i need something else to do it properly?
If it's just a few keys, a normal soldering iron should be feasible, just desoldering the switches will be tricky, but very feasible and its only 4. Make sure you get some soldering wick. It's cheap.
It is just inserted with pressure...no screw on the original knob, so just put pressure to lift it and it will come out. Just lift straight so you don't damage it in case you want to reuse it.
anyone know of a video where someone actually takes apart the titan switches? my U key broke on my Roccat vulcan pro, and I really do not want to have to buy a whole other keyboard to fix it.
hello, I have the vulcan 121 with red switch. I started having problems double tapping with a few keys... for the moment, I don't have the strength to open the case, and unsolder the keys... since I really like this keyboard , I bought a second hand keyboard for 50 euros to have spare parts... From what I know, the switches are soldered to the PCB. So you can't easily remove the switch to clean it... A hazardous solution but one that works (without dismantling everything...): 1) remove the flat surface of the black key 2) take a very very fine flat screwdriver 3) insert the flat of the screwdriver between the transparent plastic and the black frame of the keyboard. either to the left or to the right of the switch 4) pry to uncap the transparent plastic from the outside. You will have access to the spring, to the red piece that goes up and down. Afterwards, lubricate the spring and the red part. If necessary, carefully clean the electrical contact. This is a “normally closed” (NC) contact. When you press the switch, the electrical contact is open... I wasn't reassured about opening a switch from the outside but it works! good luck !
i dont think so. just you cant remove the whole switch. its complete soldered to the pcb :( i actually break 2 connection of 2 switches. naah missed one part of the video. maybe its possible, but i need 2 new titan switches xD
When making a video about dissasembly. Maybe actuly show jow you do things and not just skip frames where in one frame all keys are on and the next they're all gone without showing how to even take them out
Hello Alex ..good question.... 100% of commercial keyboards come with same switch for space bar as all the other switches. Many enthusiasts do put a different switch for space bar but I don't. What I have done in some keyboards is to put an 80gr spring in the switch so it doesn't register while I'm hovering above the space bar... Hope this helps.
it's possible to change this black things what are holding key from both sides? i mean from ,,+" key to space key? cause my space works like sh** cause of this things.
So if i were to do a switch replacement with some Gateron Silent Silvers would I need to re-solder the switches down or were they only for getting the original titans off?
@@cac2244 so I finally got around to soldering my new switches in but about 12 of the replaced switches do not respond in switch hitter. Also the 4,5,6 keys don’t respond on the num pad and i never did anything to them. Any ideas?
@@robiocraft I think the best method is to use flux and use your soldering iron while pushing with a pair of tweezers. But I'm really bad at soldering so
@CAC2244, hey man great video! I too have a vulcan 120, and I dont like the keycaps anymore. I have 2 questions if you dont mind: 1) I was thinking of Ducky pudding keycaps instead of hyperX pudding keycaps, will they fit? and 2) How much better is the green switches over the titan? I dont really like titan and ive had this kb for almost 2 years now, thank you!
@@battosaijenkins946 Hello, thanks for your comment... i have tons of keyboards with Browns, which are tactile so i gave a shot at the Gateron greens since they are clicky and i like them a lot, so if you are into clickies, then go for it, they are great. They are heavy switches at 80gr with but if you don't have a gazillion keyboards like i do and want to stick to one switch, then go for what you like... in my case, i love tactiles, so i love right now my tactile pandas, and since the Drop Holy Pandas (i have 3 full sets and are great) are so expensive then i recommend the Glorious Pandas. I have both and they are very close, so the Glorious (if you can put your hands on them) would be my recommendation. I am typing with these right now on my Coolermaster MK750 that i retrofitted yesterday and i am in love with them... I might post a video about it this week-end. As for the Ducky puddings vs Hyper X, they will fit on it, but they might not fit on the keys that use the stabs, since they are not typical stabs.
@@cac2244 Thanks for the info. I bought gateron switch samplers on amazon and decided to go with gateron yellows. Apparently ducky pudding keycaps are on backorder and I read on reddit that its much thicker and higher quality than the thinner hyperx pudding keycaps available at bestbuy. Anyway, I hope i can also change the stems inside the titan switches. I also notice the upper housing is much clearer allowing the rgb light to shine through, as opposed to the other clear upper housings (gateron, mx, etc..)
@@cac2244 Sorry I have another question, do you know if the titan switch (clear upper housing) will fit any of the other clear bottom housing as well? I know the housing is black, but I couldn't find any information on swapping just the bottom portion so I would have both transparent for rgb. (the reason being is the upper clear housing for titan seems more smoother/transparent, than the gateron upper clear).
i have roccat vulcal 121 is it the same design under the hood? Having no trouble with my switches but some of them become harder to press than the others. I would like to replace them somehow if possible. Anyone tried this on vulcan 121? many thanks in advance!
hello, I have the vulcan 121 with red switch. I started having problems double tapping with a few keys... for the moment, I don't have the strength to open the case, and unsolder the keys... since I really like this keyboard , I bought a second hand keyboard for 50 euros to have spare parts... From what I know, the switches are soldered to the PCB. So you can't easily remove the switch to clean it... A hazardous solution but one that works (without dismantling everything...): 1) remove the flat surface of the black key 2) take a very very fine flat screwdriver 3) insert the flat of the screwdriver between the transparent plastic and the black frame of the keyboard. either to the left or to the right of the switch 4) pry to uncap the transparent plastic from the outside. You will have access to the spring, to the red piece that goes up and down. Afterwards, lubricate the spring and the red part. If necessary, carefully clean the electrical contact. This is a “normally closed” (NC) contact. When you press the switch, the electrical contact is open... I wasn't reassured about opening a switch from the outside but it works! good luck !
Hey, I have a Problem with my vulcan 120 some bottons dont react when I press them just after few klicks ther react do someone think of i chance them like in the Video ist Can solve my Problem? Or someone had the Same Problem?
Hey, Same problem here. The switches suck big time. My friend had exactly the same problem but was still within warranty so he could send it back. Im stuck with the letter W not working half of the time. Contacted Roccat and their reply was: you can suck a big one. They wont acknowledge that they made a sucky keyboard.
If you pop the top of the switch shell off, try cleaning the copper contacts with either electrical contact cleaner or 70-99% rubbing alcohol, worked for me when that issue came up
@@cac2244 I just found someone who brings these switches back online by dousing them in isopropyl alcohol. And it works! But still. What a terrible keyboard.
This is biggest garbage keyboard I ever bought. w,s,u,p,m, space, enter and home buttons stopped working in first 3 months. store refused to give me back money and told me I have to sent it to ANOTHER COUNTRY for repairs. Never again roccat.
Thanks for this guide, because of wear and tear some of my Roccat Vulcan switches starting failing and this helped massively. Tore down the keyboard and replaced the affected switches and now everything works again. Again much thanks!
I have a question: when replacing the switches, did you have to completely disassemble it and solder something as shown in the video?
@@h4x3_ yes I had to desoder the old switches. Then I had to get them out from the platine. I replaced them with a new switch and had to resoder the holes I produced before
why don't you have a link for the desoldering tool?
hi, thanks for the video. do you need to deassemble entire keyboard to take out a switch? my shift is getting stuck and i want to remove it and look what needs cleaning so that it moves normally
Watching this video for hints on getting a Vulcan TKL Pro open for cleaning after my son dropped half a cup of tea into it. Why do they hide the screws behind the feet and the label? Seems like anti-repairability bastardry to me.
no i think it is to have a more clean design, honestly i thought it was common knowledge nowadays that maufacturers do this, especial since they do this for years if not decades now...
@TheFlow2006 8 of the 11 screws are just in normal open holes. Two are behind the serial number sticker and one is out of alignment with the others in its line just to make it go behind a rubber foot. This isn't an appearance thing, it's an anti-repair thing.
I love the titan browns
I agree, they are very good for browns. What I like the most of them in the fast "spring-up" time, which is way better on the Titan's than on Cherry browns.
Thanks for the guide. I have a Vulvan Pro I wanted to mod a hit and thought it was just the 3 visible screws + the 2 under the flip-up stands and was wondering what was going on. I guess I know why I can't get it apart now 😢
So I've had the vulcan since it came out, ive been having issues for about 2 years now, having to take apart the keys that stop working and remove dust/hairs from the switches one by one, I've been wondering if I were to change the switches but keep the origional key caps would i have better tolerences on the gap around the switch with some OEM Gateron or MX switches? or is the issue down to the weird top only Roccat keycap the keyboard came with.
I've always assumed the key cap just doesn't provide enough dust ingress protection due to not going down over the side of the switch, any feedback is welcome, im 50/50 on wether to throw away/replace the keyboard at this point as missing keystrokes is realllllly bad for gaming and even worse for typing.
Thx i sadly feel like i need to open my keyboard to replace the arrow up key as it keep crapping out when held down. So for almost all games... It just stops accepting input for some reason. Also the numpad led is almost dead so the quality of the leds is terrible.
Did u replace it?
And did it help actually? Because my W starts Makin problems... Won't take input some times ... Well, I just cleaned it from outside and hope for the best that some hairs or dust fucked the connection somehow...
@@sebastianleister355 no i ended up buying a new one as key after key started to not respond 100% reliable. i still have it for a rainy day project. i feel it might actualy be dust that gets in the switches as even switches that i barely use are suffering from it. i got the laser version now.
What type of volume knob do you have there ? Would like to get the same
4:46, how did you remove the PCB from the front plate? Mine is very rigidly held in place.
I dont know it either, you got it? I need help
You have to desolder every key then you can remove the PCB from the front plate
Just to let you know there are more screws under the rubber stoppers. Assuming someone has the new model of this keyboard.
Thanks for that, yeah, me i modded the first original Vulcan 120... so newer gens will be different.
either i already tried taking mine apart or someone was lazy at roccat cause some of my screws are missing.
Did you have to de-soulder anything to take off the PCB panel?
Thanks for making this video! I ordered BOX Jades to convert this keyboard a few days ago. Wish me luck
why tho, are you like that one guy at the office that likes annoying people?
My backspace rgb led is died and i wonna know where can i buy it new one to replacement
sad i tried to remove the switches but they are kind of glued to the circuit board therefore i kind of damaged a connector and no longer have a functioning right ctrl key
I have questions. Are there any other switch that is as close to the titan brown switches? Because I love the tactile feeling they give, but have no idea if there are other switches that are the same, but that I can buy in bulk. Don't really see myself buying tons of Vulcans to steal the switches.
Awesome Content and very easy Guide if someone really tries to follow your steps one by one. Subbed ! Hope you keep having fun with doing more Videos in the future and i wish you more and more success !
Actually, I am a successful "corporate guy" that is just a techie to the core, so this is why I have no pressure to do videos and I do them to help users (not to make a buck) and this is why it is actually real fun for me to make these when i see clear helping value (vs commercial value). Thanks for feedback, i appreciate.
By the way I have the roccat Vulcan 120 aimio and sir yours may not be legit
Magic how did you get the pcb out since mine seems stuck to the aluminium, you skipped that step
I failed to mention you also failed to say the switches were soldered down, so yet another step, it's the same roccat.
Hiya, i was wondering if you can swap the keycaps on these keyboards and if yes which would you say are the best, considering steelseries prisms, thanks for the help
Where can i buy the roccat titan mechanical switches? Is there a way to buy them?
are the new key still compatible with the roccat-swarm? looks like it in the final shot but would like confirmation
Of course swarm works .. the keyboard brain has no idea what switches are in there, so yes swarm is all good with whatever mechanical switches.
@@cac2244 awesome thanks
I'm using Roccat 121 AIMO and my keyboard has one switch is broken the switch stem ("plus" thing), it is red switch. Where do i can buy this Roccat switch for replacing?
I liked the roccat brown switches on this keyboard, but I absolutely hated the keycaps, as I found them unstable. I also didn't have any problems fitting the "normal" keycaps I have. Replacing switches on this keyboard with soldering is a bit too much of a bother, I think. It is indeed much easier if you have a desoldering tool (and know what are you doing), but if you don't and you would only need the tool a few times, not sure how good investment it is really.
With plenty of hot swap boards available, it is much easier to just buy and place any switches you like.
You are absolutely correct, I got many hot swappables from Drop, Glorious, Keychrons and all, so hot swappable for the win. I absolutely love my Keychron V5, as it is lighter and 1800 format, so it is light and complete for business travel and is QMK compatible, so customizable to your heart content.
Cool so i might lube up my Vulcan aimo 122 as a little project someday.
Hey thank you for the vid! I'm doing the same, but I can't seem to desolder the switches even using high temps such as 380. Any tips? I don't have a gun, I have a normal iron, soldering wick, and a solder pump
Iron , wick and pump is slow and difficult. The only thing that can help is to use flux. Use " no clean flux"... Other than that, it's a game of patience.
@@cac2244 thanks! yeah, it took awhile. Do you think it is possible to change the wire from the PCB to USB-A into a pcb to usb c port? I'm a bit unfamiliar with what I would even be looking for, but you seem very insightful! Thanks for all your help. BIg help in disassembling.
I have the Roccat Vulcan too but one button isnt working idk if its the fault of the switches i bought this keyboard a week ago for my birthday
im just sad because now the keyboard is 159Euro and i bough it for 122Euro i dont know what to do you think if
i change the switch it will work?
Are the switches the problem with these? I have so many keys that dont even register on mine.. I hate the damn thing
I replaced mine not because of faulty switches but because it was a fun project. If you hate it, do yourself a favor and get a hot swappable Keychron or Glorious.
i don't think the preference of tactile over clicky is a region thing. it's the fact that many people who are into mechanical keyboards also game a lot. and you rarely see gamers using clicky switches.
Will it work on my suora FX ? "W" button stopped working and I want to change it to some very rarely used by me button like ins or "X" on the numpad
Gateron - G Pro 3.0 it will fit?
Great video! Do you have any recommendations on keycaps to use with the roccat stabilizers? HyperX and Glorious Keycaps are too large on thr stabilizer connections, so the space bar is way too lose :(
my Z key in roccat 121 aimo is a bit heavy i can put whole switch off to check it without take off nails and doing as u did in video?
I dont know if you figured ths out yet, assuming you probably did, but unfortunately no. You would need to still fully take off the bottom part with screws to even replace one switch.
@@Cloutair thank you i contact roccat support for this issue the switch was going crazy with the lights
and they replaced me it with a new one they are a great support tbh
Does the Ducky keycaps work with the Roccat 120 aimo? Only keys i can get with fast delivery. Nice video
nice video, so my wasd keys and the shift key are dying on me, is it possible to replace them with a normal soldering iron? do i need something else to do it properly?
If it's just a few keys, a normal soldering iron should be feasible, just desoldering the switches will be tricky, but very feasible and its only 4. Make sure you get some soldering wick. It's cheap.
Is it possible to spray paint the aluminum sheet of that keyboard? If so let me know please
How do you remove the original knob?, i have a vulcan and want to swap the knob.
It is just inserted with pressure...no screw on the original knob, so just put pressure to lift it and it will come out. Just lift straight so you don't damage it in case you want to reuse it.
@@cac2244 Thank you, i thought it was but didn't want to accidentally break it.
Can I buy after market Stabilizers?
Great Vid !!
anyone know of a video where someone actually takes apart the titan switches? my U key broke on my Roccat vulcan pro, and I really do not want to have to buy a whole other keyboard to fix it.
hello, I have the vulcan 121 with red switch. I started having problems double tapping with a few keys... for the moment, I don't have the strength to open the case, and unsolder the keys... since I really like this keyboard , I bought a second hand keyboard for 50 euros to have spare parts...
From what I know, the switches are soldered to the PCB. So you can't easily remove the switch to clean it...
A hazardous solution but one that works (without dismantling everything...):
1) remove the flat surface of the black key
2) take a very very fine flat screwdriver
3) insert the flat of the screwdriver between the transparent plastic and the black frame of the keyboard. either to the left or to the right of the switch
4) pry to uncap the transparent plastic from the outside.
You will have access to the spring, to the red piece that goes up and down.
Afterwards, lubricate the spring and the red part. If necessary, carefully clean the electrical contact. This is a “normally closed” (NC) contact. When you press the switch, the electrical contact is open...
I wasn't reassured about opening a switch from the outside but it works! good luck !
does this work with the roccat vulcan 121 aimo i really want to use cherry mx on my 121 aimo but i dont wanna break it
i dont think so. just you cant remove the whole switch. its complete soldered to the pcb :( i actually break 2 connection of 2 switches. naah missed one part of the video. maybe its possible, but i need 2 new titan switches xD
Do you know where I could purchases titan brown switches. A few of my switches don't work well and I simply want to replace them with the same type.
i found a pack of 3 original tactile brown switches for 13€ on ebay but also a 70pcs Pack gateron tactile brown switches on banggood
When making a video about dissasembly. Maybe actuly show jow you do things and not just skip frames where in one frame all keys are on and the next they're all gone without showing how to even take them out
What switch i have to use for Space . I heard that Space button is diffrent than others. Greetings Alex :)
Hello Alex ..good question.... 100% of commercial keyboards come with same switch for space bar as all the other switches. Many enthusiasts do put a different switch for space bar but I don't. What I have done in some keyboards is to put an 80gr spring in the switch so it doesn't register while I'm hovering above the space bar... Hope this helps.
it's possible to change this black things what are holding key from both sides? i mean from ,,+" key to space key? cause my space works like sh** cause of this things.
So if i were to do a switch replacement with some Gateron Silent Silvers would I need to re-solder the switches down or were they only for getting the original titans off?
Yes, you need to resolder...
@@cac2244 so I finally got around to soldering my new switches in but about 12 of the replaced switches do not respond in switch hitter. Also the 4,5,6 keys don’t respond on the num pad and i never did anything to them. Any ideas?
Are the switches on the 122 aimo removable
watch the video^^ you cant just pull them out like the keycaps.
Is the removal possible on the 100 aimo too? They seem pretty similar
Should be...
can i upgrade with optical switches or only normal version? gateron red switches ?
No you can use any mx switch you want
Is it possible to change the stabilizers? If so, has anyone recommendations?
So Cherrymx Brown switches are compatible?
Yes...
Thx mate
Do you own a Suora FX, and does the pcb look like it could get its switches desoldered to something else?
this is possible with any mechanical keyboard , but can't really get a good way to desolder it, it's a long and hard job to do
@@benjaminthurkow491 Thanks for insight. For me if there is a way, means it’s possible
@@robiocraft I think the best method is to use flux and use your soldering iron while pushing with a pair of tweezers. But I'm really bad at soldering so
Hey I seen your directions on the tt sync fan hub and was wondering if those rgb headers could be 12v
@CAC2244, hey man great video! I too have a vulcan 120, and I dont like the keycaps anymore. I have 2 questions if you dont mind:
1) I was thinking of Ducky pudding keycaps instead of hyperX pudding keycaps, will they fit? and
2) How much better is the green switches over the titan? I dont really like titan and ive had this kb for almost 2 years now, thank you!
@@battosaijenkins946 Hello, thanks for your comment... i have tons of keyboards with Browns, which are tactile so i gave a shot at the Gateron greens since they are clicky and i like them a lot, so if you are into clickies, then go for it, they are great. They are heavy switches at 80gr with but if you don't have a gazillion keyboards like i do and want to stick to one switch, then go for what you like... in my case, i love tactiles, so i love right now my tactile pandas, and since the Drop Holy Pandas (i have 3 full sets and are great) are so expensive then i recommend the Glorious Pandas. I have both and they are very close, so the Glorious (if you can put your hands on them) would be my recommendation. I am typing with these right now on my Coolermaster MK750 that i retrofitted yesterday and i am in love with them... I might post a video about it this week-end. As for the Ducky puddings vs Hyper X, they will fit on it, but they might not fit on the keys that use the stabs, since they are not typical stabs.
@@cac2244 Thanks for the info. I bought gateron switch samplers on amazon and decided to go with gateron yellows. Apparently ducky pudding keycaps are on backorder and I read on reddit that its much thicker and higher quality than the thinner hyperx pudding keycaps available at bestbuy. Anyway, I hope i can also change the stems inside the titan switches. I also notice the upper housing is much clearer allowing the rgb light to shine through, as opposed to the other clear upper housings (gateron, mx, etc..)
@@cac2244 Sorry I have another question, do you know if the titan switch (clear upper housing) will fit any of the other clear bottom housing as well? I know the housing is black, but I couldn't find any information on swapping just the bottom portion so I would have both transparent for rgb. (the reason being is the upper clear housing for titan seems more smoother/transparent, than the gateron upper clear).
Im not getting a single switch out
Does this work with the 121 Aimo too?
Works with every Vulcan keyboard as far as I know
Of course if it has mechanical and not optical switches
i have roccat vulcal 121 is it the same design under the hood? Having no trouble with my switches but some of them become harder to press than the others. I would like to replace them somehow if possible. Anyone tried this on vulcan 121? many thanks in advance!
hello, I have the vulcan 121 with red switch. I started having problems double tapping with a few keys... for the moment, I don't have the strength to open the case, and unsolder the keys... since I really like this keyboard , I bought a second hand keyboard for 50 euros to have spare parts...
From what I know, the switches are soldered to the PCB. So you can't easily remove the switch to clean it...
A hazardous solution but one that works (without dismantling everything...):
1) remove the flat surface of the black key
2) take a very very fine flat screwdriver
3) insert the flat of the screwdriver between the transparent plastic and the black frame of the keyboard. either to the left or to the right of the switch
4) pry to uncap the transparent plastic from the outside.
You will have access to the spring, to the red piece that goes up and down.
Afterwards, lubricate the spring and the red part. If necessary, carefully clean the electrical contact. This is a “normally closed” (NC) contact. When you press the switch, the electrical contact is open...
I wasn't reassured about opening a switch from the outside but it works! good luck !
Could you do a tear down of the vulcan pro or the Vulcan tkl pro?
How do I take the plate out?
Hey,
I have a Problem with my vulcan 120 some bottons dont react when I press them just after few klicks ther react do someone think of i chance them like in the Video ist Can solve my Problem?
Or someone had the Same Problem?
Hey, Same problem here. The switches suck big time. My friend had exactly the same problem but was still within warranty so he could send it back. Im stuck with the letter W not working half of the time.
Contacted Roccat and their reply was: you can suck a big one.
They wont acknowledge that they made a sucky keyboard.
If you pop the top of the switch shell off, try cleaning the copper contacts with either electrical contact cleaner or 70-99% rubbing alcohol, worked for me when that issue came up
Why?
What I shitty keyboard
Indeed... took the way side years ago...
@@cac2244 I just found someone who brings these switches back online by dousing them in isopropyl alcohol. And it works! But still. What a terrible keyboard.
Roccat = crap. Led's on the keys started failing after a couple of month and they do not give any support.
I feel like this keyboard is trash for the price
What a waste, reason why you buy that particular keyboard is because its fast and silent.
I bought this keyboard because I buy all keyboards...
I dont know.
It looks like you just ruined a great keyboard.
Then I'm not gonna tell you want I did with my Durgod Nebula TKL today... You'd be upset. 😂
This is biggest garbage keyboard I ever bought.
w,s,u,p,m, space, enter and home buttons stopped working in first 3 months.
store refused to give me back money and told me I have to sent it to ANOTHER COUNTRY for repairs.
Never again roccat.