Gonna give this a try so I don't have to keep buying new drill bits. I only ever use maybe a 1/4" of the bit but they're all over an inch long so it's always felt like a waste to not sharpen them. Thanks man!
Man that soft platten looks like it works a charm! Also I need to try this technique. I have always started at the cutting edge and rolled away from it when sharpening drills. I think your way may be easier to get lined up as you get to the cutting edge. Thanks for the podcast shout out!
Cool. I’ve been sharpening my drills this way for years, but I only have a hard platen. Way better than bench grinder, but now I want to try with a soft backer. Also, magnification visor is a must for my old eyes. Great video!
Thanks so much, Ben! I think with practice I could easily do this on a hard platen but anything that makes the process faster, I’m gonna do it that way and get back to the bigger project. It’s enjoyable to take a few minutes and do this though!🤘🏻
I'm going to make a soft platen with leather on flat bar with magnets to stick to the existing platen. Speedy change over. Thanks for the idea. I'm impressed with the blending on flat stock ability. 👍
Another great video!! I’ve tried every kind of jig and drill bit sharpening system that’s out there, bottom line learning how to sharpen by hand is the fastest way to get it done, the more you practice the better you get, this just goes to show that the 2x72 belt grinder is by far the most useful tool in the shop!!
I find that the bits cut more symmetrical when you focus on flat grinding the cutting edges into a centered V using a rest, and then freehand concave off the back side of the cutting edge to leave room for the chips. Edit: having them symmetrical keeps them from chattering.
The Ti coating on the sides is helpful in chip removal/extraction because it helps keep things from sticking to the bit and flutes...removing it from the tip isn't going to be detrimental to drilling as long as it's sharp
What a great Idea to use the soft platen. By any chance did you try your 10 inch wheel? I have the first drill doctor, it is garbage. It’s been sitting on my shelf for years.
Great video, Brian. The wider belt makes it easy to sharpen big drills, too. I regularly sharpen 25mm/1" to 50mm/2" drills on mine. Just a top on sharpening your deburing tool or single point countersink. If you just grind back the flat cutting face and leave the factory geometry, you will keep the correct angle on the tool. The same for the single point tool, use a die grinder stone and just grind the hole if that makes sense?
Great video as always. Can't wait to see more videos soon. Wow that's very informational and helpful video this week. Thank you so much. I will definitely keep this in mind. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Weld on. Fab on. Keep making. God bless.
PS - a few tips: the single chip-coil indicates one cutting edge is a slightly shallower angle and is doing all the cutting. Use a gauge to ensure the angles are ground identical on both sides. Trouble starting the hole (and the visible heat) is because non-split drill tips can’t cut. That’s why you need a pilot hole or split tip. If you lose the split from sharpening you should drill a pilot or the tip will overheat. You probably know all that but I hope my comment might help someone else. Again, great video 👍
Why are you deburring with a drill bit? A reamer would be a better solution for opening the holes if needed, a deburr tool, chamfer or countersink bit would clean up the Rim
I really like "zero" flute countersink bits. Turn as slow as possible with firm pressure to raise a "chip". Light pressure and higher speed produces excess abrasive action on the part and the bit. Great videos. Thanks.
Yeah... I needed this one 😅
Got a bag of bits that need help!? 😆
@@HouseMadeUS Man you know it... I need to get me a soft platten too.
Great video man! I don't know how many drill bits I've chucked across the shop because I got irritated that they weren't cutting!!!
Gonna give this a try so I don't have to keep buying new drill bits. I only ever use maybe a 1/4" of the bit but they're all over an inch long so it's always felt like a waste to not sharpen them. Thanks man!
Yeah man! I sharpen on the fly all the time. 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Great tutorial. When I was a mechanic, I always sharpened my bits on a bench grinder. I later had a Drill doctor to use, and it worked well.
Thanks Stephen! I like the drill doctor as well, works great. 🤩
Good stuff, I’ve sharpened my drill bits for years. Saves a lot of$$
Right on, same here and with gas prices I save that running back and forth to the hardware store. Thanks Al!
Man that soft platten looks like it works a charm! Also I need to try this technique. I have always started at the cutting edge and rolled away from it when sharpening drills. I think your way may be easier to get lined up as you get to the cutting edge. Thanks for the podcast shout out!
You got it brother! ⚡️ Yes the soft platen can be a game changer for sure. Def give it a shot.
Great video! Another use for the soft platen!
Cool. I’ve been sharpening my drills this way for years, but I only have a hard platen. Way better than bench grinder, but now I want to try with a soft backer. Also, magnification visor is a must for my old eyes. Great video!
Thanks so much, Ben! I think with practice I could easily do this on a hard platen but anything that makes the process faster, I’m gonna do it that way and get back to the bigger project. It’s enjoyable to take a few minutes and do this though!🤘🏻
I'm going to make a soft platen with leather on flat bar with magnets to stick to the existing platen. Speedy change over. Thanks for the idea. I'm impressed with the blending on flat stock ability. 👍
That's an excellent idea. I may join you on that.
Another great video!! I’ve tried every kind of jig and drill bit sharpening system that’s out there, bottom line learning how to sharpen by hand is the fastest way to get it done, the more you practice the better you get, this just goes to show that the 2x72 belt grinder is by far the most useful tool in the shop!!
Totally agree on all points, thank you!! 👊🏻⚡️
Great demo, thanks for sharing.
I got a set of those glass/magnifiers with the lights on them. I'm in my early 50's and the eyes are knackered my bro. I need them badly these days..
I find that the bits cut more symmetrical when you focus on flat grinding the cutting edges into a centered V using a rest, and then freehand concave off the back side of the cutting edge to leave room for the chips.
Edit: having them symmetrical keeps them from chattering.
Makes sense-thanks for the tip JJ! 👊🏻⚡️
The Ti coating on the sides is helpful in chip removal/extraction because it helps keep things from sticking to the bit and flutes...removing it from the tip isn't going to be detrimental to drilling as long as it's sharp
Gotcha, MBKS - thank you for the answer on that! 👊🏻⚡️
Great Video Brother!
What a great Idea to use the soft platen. By any chance did you try your 10 inch wheel? I have the first drill doctor, it is garbage. It’s been sitting on my shelf for years.
The wheel works great too. I like my drill doctor but it's a later version. The 750 I think.
Great video, Brian. The wider belt makes it easy to sharpen big drills, too. I regularly sharpen 25mm/1" to 50mm/2" drills on mine. Just a top on sharpening your deburing tool or single point countersink. If you just grind back the flat cutting face and leave the factory geometry, you will keep the correct angle on the tool. The same for the single point tool, use a die grinder stone and just grind the hole if that makes sense?
Great video as always. Can't wait to see more videos soon. Wow that's very informational and helpful video this week. Thank you so much. I will definitely keep this in mind. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Weld on. Fab on. Keep making. God bless.
Thank you Jared. I really appreciate your support as always. I am trying to bring value to the community with my videos. Thanks again my friend. 🙏🏼
Now I kno what to do!!
Take all my dull drill bits and send them to you
Just let me kno when they’re ready
Sure thing Marc LOL I’ll get right on that 😆😉
Thanks for the tips. What camera do you use to record?
This is the camera I use: amzn.to/3BWe05x. - main lens is a 1.8 - 50mm
@@HouseMadeUS do you use any filters or the video quality is straight from the camera and lens?
I just have to say your video quality looks amazing.
PS - a few tips: the single chip-coil indicates one cutting edge is a slightly shallower angle and is doing all the cutting. Use a gauge to ensure the angles are ground identical on both sides. Trouble starting the hole (and the visible heat) is because non-split drill tips can’t cut. That’s why you need a pilot hole or split tip. If you lose the split from sharpening you should drill a pilot or the tip will overheat. You probably know all that but I hope my comment might help someone else. Again, great video 👍
Awesome tips Ben, thank you for adding this note! (helps me too) 👊🏻⚡️
@HouseMade, who makes the awesome Leather Apron you are wearing???
That would be Ben Butler. My cohost on the podcast. He makes them for sale so go check it out. Love this thing!
do you see that plane cross the Atlantic with no lites , holy fuck
I did, it was awesome.
The coating makes them gold….which is obviously way better than silver or black!
😂😂😂
Couldn't you just do it on the slack of the belt
I tried it and I got way too much bevel that way. I needed something tougher behind it. Rotary platen could work.
Pro tip- you don't have to sharpen bits if you just snap them off
Why are you deburring with a drill bit? A reamer would be a better solution for opening the holes if needed, a deburr tool, chamfer or countersink bit would clean up the Rim
I prefer a single fluted chamfer.
I really like "zero" flute countersink bits. Turn as slow as possible with firm pressure to raise a "chip". Light pressure and higher speed produces excess abrasive action on the part and the bit.
Great videos. Thanks.