With watching all you're videos, I'm now completely confident in replacing all the components in my 1971 well setup. Turns out i have a bad pump, switch and tank so im just going to replace everything. Thank you for all the valuable information!
I have replaced mine 4 times since 2007 because of some plumbers using bad parts or not doing their job right . The squire D garbage is garbage . That is what the well driller put in and they rusted after and failed after only 3 years and then again in 2014 and I got a better switch but that finally failed and my well drained dry after the automatic flush filter kept flushing because of the bad switch . I had plumbers here and guess what they did not do theiir job right either . I had to have them come back and made them flush the 40 gallon pressure tank when they moved my filter and asked them because pressure gauge was not showing right pressure . Had a friend come over to help me put on new pressure switch and gauge as the other one was so clogged with gunk from the well . I had no choice but to buy a square D one for now but ordered a pressure switch from H 20 today . american made
After seeing yard hydrants in a couple of your videos I had to search online until I found the name of what it was. I had never seen one before as we don't worry about pipes freezing here.
Use poly for temp surface irrigation needs on farm, but never have used for potable water always prefer PVC even did sch 80 threaded drop pipe with stainless couplings for my well, just what I have done, we have miles of plumbing on the farm, not just irrigation but many well drilled and shallow and several buildings so I have had to become my own plumber, but I have had training not just a DIY'er
I was trying to subscribe .... but I found out I was already subscribed. Big surprise : / I luv this channel ... except it is lacking more pipe screwing footage . Lets see a well big enough to screw pipe together . (The riser pipe)
Wondering what your well house cover is made of and if it has any R value of insulation and if it would support weight of a snow and the ease of taking off and on and if you have any trouble with mice getting in. I have 2” styrofoam sheet under my wood frame with 5v metal roof but the mice love shredding it. Getting expensive replacing about every year and getting heavier every year it seems as my old back ain’t what it used to be.
how do can or do you trace water/electric line from well to house. trying to add a hydrant but not sure if line runs under ground under house or out from under house and around to front yard
Great video, thank you, I've gotta do this soon. What goo are you using on your brass 90 threads and also what did you use on the threads of the SS transition to PVC? Thanks again!
The hydrant you installed here is downstream of the filter. At my house, the well is up by the street and the bladder and filter is in the basement of the house 70 feet away. Can I still put in a hydrant upstream of the bladder/filter? Or is that a bad idea?
I have an outside hydrant that looks like the one in this video. When I raise the handle to turn it on it has a flow of water coming out around the stem that goes up and down. Are they repairable or do I have to replace the whole hydrant?I’m assuming a seal is bad down inside the pipe.
I sell them on my website. By the box of 10. There's links to the website on some of my newest Vids. I just opened up the online store for people like yourself looking for quality parts
Another thank you for this, really appreciate your sharing information. Question - I have a barbed coupler in black pipe that weeps. I cut it back on both sides, re-coupled, and have 2 hose clamps on each side. Pipe end looked fine. Any tricks to get it to seal? I was thinking of taking the clamps back, heating the area, and re-clamping quickly. Any better advise?
@@h2omechanic 3rd try, still leaks! I think it's partly the pvc barb couplers I have. Having trouble finding metal barb couplers. Can I use pex 1" barb couplers on this well pipe? Can find those all over the place.
In the future I'm actually opening up a online store to supply products to diy'rs but I'm still at the beginning stages and seeing who can ship those types of larger items. Unfortunately pipes hard to find everywhere! So if you can find a 300ft roll that is 200psi, buy it. It's a rare item even for us installers
The gravel is not supposed to "cover up the valve at the bottom". I mean it is supposed to cover it by about 3 inches, but the majority should be at the bottom of your pit to provide a void for the water to drain into. Putting all of the gravel above the drain defeats the purpose and increases the chances the drain gets plugged resulting in a busted pipe when it freezes.... which you have concreted in. 🤨
If they are tied into a water system, yes. A well pump, tank, & switch is all needed to run a hydrant. My install was 2 separate wells . One for the house, one for lawn watering.
Replacement is easy. Dry bag it. If you dig around it & hit with a hammer, it breaks in half. If you don't use cement, it will move in the ground and break the fitting. Ppl hit them with mowers & tractors. My way lasts 10-15 years. But to each there own. Next time you buy one, read the install guide.
@@h2omechanic lol I've installed at least a hundred of them. You cement it it has no movement. Need to use tubing instead of pvc or steel so it has flex. And cement makes it hard as hell to replace because Instead of being able to just twist off the hydrant and replace it by twisting another one in you have to break 50 pounds of concrete. If You break concrete that easily you must buy shit concrete... that concrete aint doing anyone any good in the 1st place. As soon as something like a tractor hits it it will break the pipe under the concrete because it has zero flex. I've been doing this for over 20 years son. Making a youtube video don't make YOU an expert 😂😆😂
@@h2omechanic I did see you used flex pipe which was good. I am guilty of fast forwarding to the dumb part where you used concrete because I wanted to see if you concreted the base of the faucet or if you concreted where the water hit the ground. Should've just clamped a t post to the hydrant and you would have been better off. But if you are an actual plumber I see why you did it... Repeat business and money in your pocket 😉😉
@@-CHaPPy- Repeat business? Maybe some people will call back a company or independent contractor who deliberately performed sub standard work knowing that it will fail with the idea they'll get repeat business. I am not one of them. If that is your work ethic, I would be surprised you're still in business.
With watching all you're videos, I'm now completely confident in replacing all the components in my 1971 well setup. Turns out i have a bad pump, switch and tank so im just going to replace everything. Thank you for all the valuable information!
I have replaced mine 4 times since 2007 because of some plumbers using bad parts or not doing their job right . The squire D garbage is garbage . That is what the well driller put in and they rusted after and failed after only 3 years and then again in 2014 and I got a better switch but that finally failed and my well drained dry after the automatic flush filter kept flushing because of the bad switch . I had plumbers here and guess what they did not do theiir job right either . I had to have them come back and made them flush the 40 gallon pressure tank when they moved my filter and asked them because pressure gauge was not showing right pressure . Had a friend come over to help me put on new pressure switch and gauge as the other one was so clogged with gunk from the well . I had no choice but to buy a square D one for now but ordered a pressure switch from H 20 today . american made
After seeing yard hydrants in a couple of your videos I had to search online until I found the name of what it was. I had never seen one before as we don't worry about pipes freezing here.
In my humble opinion, Merrill Manufacturing of Ohio makes the best yard hydrants. I just think they're better made. Great video!
A lot of good info here. Thanks for sharing your 'tricks of the trade'.
Anytime!
you might just be my new fav channel lol
That was awesome!…thanks for the video!
This is the video that blew you up man.
Use poly for temp surface irrigation needs on farm, but never have used for potable water always prefer PVC even did sch 80 threaded drop pipe with stainless couplings for my well, just what I have done, we have miles of plumbing on the farm, not just irrigation but many well drilled and shallow and several buildings so I have had to become my own plumber, but I have had training not just a DIY'er
❤love this work 🏁👍😊😎
Great video on what not to do
Great job on this install but what kind of black tubing is being used?
I was trying to subscribe .... but I found out I was already subscribed. Big surprise : /
I luv this channel ... except it is lacking more pipe screwing footage .
Lets see a well big enough to screw pipe together . (The riser pipe)
Wondering what your well house cover is made of and if it has any R value of insulation and if it would support weight of a snow and the ease of taking off and on and if you have any trouble with mice getting in. I have 2” styrofoam sheet under my wood frame with 5v metal roof but the mice love shredding it. Getting expensive replacing about every year and getting heavier every year it seems as my old back ain’t what it used to be.
Awesome
how do can or do you trace water/electric line from well to house. trying to add a hydrant but not sure if line runs under ground under house or out from under house and around to front yard
Great video, thank you, I've gotta do this soon. What goo are you using on your brass 90 threads and also what did you use on the threads of the SS transition to PVC? Thanks again!
Liquid Teflon pipe dope. Happy to have Helped!
The hydrant you installed here is downstream of the filter. At my house, the well is up by the street and the bladder and filter is in the basement of the house 70 feet away. Can I still put in a hydrant upstream of the bladder/filter? Or is that a bad idea?
I have an outside hydrant that looks like the one in this video. When I raise the handle to turn it on it has a flow of water coming out around the stem that goes up and down. Are they repairable or do I have to replace the whole hydrant?I’m assuming a seal is bad down inside the pipe.
An other channel has a video on how to change the packings & other wear items; th-cam.com/video/qYiF3y5f9yI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=vY_7Sk_-cbMwqlQa
Thanks for the great video content! Any chance you could post a link to the ss clamps you use? All the clamps I’ve used lately are awful.
I sell them on my website. By the box of 10. There's links to the website on some of my newest Vids. I just opened up the online store for people like yourself looking for quality parts
Another thank you for this, really appreciate your sharing information. Question - I have a barbed coupler in black pipe that weeps. I cut it back on both sides, re-coupled, and have 2 hose clamps on each side. Pipe end looked fine. Any tricks to get it to seal? I was thinking of taking the clamps back, heating the area, and re-clamping quickly. Any better advise?
Yes, use some heat & adjust clamps to be on opposite side of each other. I always heat it & double clamp it.
@@h2omechanic 3rd try, still leaks! I think it's partly the pvc barb couplers I have. Having trouble finding metal barb couplers. Can I use pex 1" barb couplers on this well pipe? Can find those all over the place.
@@Cliflyri slap some pvc glue on it & then push in the fitting and tighten the clamps. That'll stop it!
Any suggestions on where to buy the black pipe in 150 or 200ft continuous rolls?
In the future I'm actually opening up a online store to supply products to diy'rs but I'm still at the beginning stages and seeing who can ship those types of larger items.
Unfortunately pipes hard to find everywhere! So if you can find a 300ft roll that is 200psi, buy it. It's a rare item even for us installers
Can you provide a link to where I can get a stainless steel barbed fitting like that? Having trouble finding one that long.
Lowes should carry them in brass. 1"barb by 1 1/4" Male thread NPT. Google that.
My fault thats 3/4". Both ways. Brass is still good to use
@@h2omechanic Thanks for the help.
The gravel is not supposed to "cover up the valve at the bottom". I mean it is supposed to cover it by about 3 inches, but the majority should be at the bottom of your pit to provide a void for the water to drain into. Putting all of the gravel above the drain defeats the purpose and increases the chances the drain gets plugged resulting in a busted pipe when it freezes.... which you have concreted in. 🤨
Do all yard hydrants have to have a tank?
If they are tied into a water system, yes. A well pump, tank, & switch is all needed to run a hydrant. My install was 2 separate wells . One for the house, one for lawn watering.
first step buy an iowa hydrant
… a woodsfords Y-34 i believe …
You should reverse one of those clamps so one is pulling in each direction. Couldn't even stop smoking for the 30 minutes while making the video?
unloosen them... lol it's just LOOSEN
You don't put concrete in there in case you ever have to replace hydrant 😂😆😂
Replacement is easy. Dry bag it. If you dig around it & hit with a hammer, it breaks in half. If you don't use cement, it will move in the ground and break the fitting. Ppl hit them with mowers & tractors. My way lasts 10-15 years. But to each there own. Next time you buy one, read the install guide.
@@h2omechanic lol I've installed at least a hundred of them. You cement it it has no movement. Need to use tubing instead of pvc or steel so it has flex. And cement makes it hard as hell to replace because Instead of being able to just twist off the hydrant and replace it by twisting another one in you have to break 50 pounds of concrete. If You break concrete that easily you must buy shit concrete... that concrete aint doing anyone any good in the 1st place. As soon as something like a tractor hits it it will break the pipe under the concrete because it has zero flex. I've been doing this for over 20 years son. Making a youtube video don't make YOU an expert 😂😆😂
@@h2omechanic I did see you used flex pipe which was good. I am guilty of fast forwarding to the dumb part where you used concrete because I wanted to see if you concreted the base of the faucet or if you concreted where the water hit the ground. Should've just clamped a t post to the hydrant and you would have been better off. But if you are an actual plumber I see why you did it... Repeat business and money in your pocket 😉😉
@@-CHaPPy- Repeat business? Maybe some people will call back a company or independent contractor who deliberately performed sub standard work knowing that it will fail with the idea they'll get repeat business. I am not one of them. If that is your work ethic, I would be surprised you're still in business.
@@h2omechanicyea cement was a bad idea.