Sounds quick and easy, and you get good results. When I used to develop film, I used D76, acid stop bath, kodafix, I think, and kodak photoflo. Always used fresh chemicals, and results were always very good. Still have all the negatives, and they look good. The issue for me is that it all seems a little too involved now, and I really don't have the time and the patience, nor the wife's permission, to develop my own film, so the occasional roll of black and white film I shoot I have developed at the local photo lab. Like your results, though. Thanks for the information.
I have been using D76 for a few years and wanted to try something else. Someone gave me some Ilfosol 3 super cheap. I think I like it I can't believe the difference in sharpness. I was looking for something that wouldn't smoothen out the grain.
Ken, the reason D-76 is a "standard" by which other B&W developers are compared is because it is the standard reference developer officially adopted as such by the photo industry in the late 1930s. The status doesn't make it better or worse, just a reference.
Thank you for this video. Might you comment on what you consider to be best practice bleach for reversal processing of BW films intended for (motion picture) application. Generally, 12 ASA to say 50ASA. I am familiar with 35mm BW negative process, totally UNfamikiar with reversal processing. I am strongly considering a suggested bleach of 3% HydPeroxide/15ml white Vinegar at 100-105degrees F. Can it (above described bleach) really be effective ? Why so simple with other more widely known dichromate or permanganate sulfuric acid bleach? These more toxic bleaches spray a much more vigorous action than seemingly wimpy household vinegar and wimpy 3%peroxide. Your credentials form basis for my submission of the question. Looking forward to any reply thanks!
I don't know chemistry that well. I used to use color developer and blix in a machine at the newspaper, which was very scary dangerous, and was a bleach fix mix I believe. I haven't done my own color, though I have a pack of Cinestill C41 chemicals here. I'm just a basic HC110 developer, water stop bath and Ilford Rapid Fix kind of guy.
@@kennethwajda wow a newspaper! I remember those! I happen to like the idea of one’s photographs being one’s own property, not at the whim of an end user license agreement. Your newspaper work likely had lots of copyright permutations. I’d really like to hear anything you’d like to say about all that
down to my last bottle of hc-110, I have been thinking of venturing into the photographers cookbook of home made formulas. find out if it is a cost saver over current prices in the nj/ny area. I wondering if you are aware of any woodworking plans to build a view camera. Having the desire to make 3 for my nice & my 2 nephews. hopefully one of them picks up the torch and runs with it
D-76 1:3 is usually my jam, but I also use rodinal for large format because of the high dilution and low cost. D-76 is not that a big commitment, you mix it and you're set for 10 rolls. You can even use it stock and put it back in the bottle, wonderful for pushing film. The weird colour you got may be the anti-halation layers washing away. It does not have an effect on the development (but I usually rinse it away before Dev).
I've been the same thing but with d-76, somewhere I read that it is possible if you dont dilute it... ive used the same d-76 for about 5 rolls now and seems to be working just fine.
I have been a longtime fan of Agfa Rodinal. But since I moved to Colombia, I soon realized the easier to find were Hc-110 and D76. Now, not liking D76 lifespan, I opted for the Hc-110. Other reason being, suggestions I received through a Flickr contact, Ralph Lundvall, a living encyclopedia when it comes to chemicals for film (he sent me a very handy excel spreadsheet with all pre-calculations on dilutions, ratio, etc. for use of Hc-110.) It's now been approx. three years I almost exclusively use Hc-110, and am loving it more and more. Besides, if Ansel Adams used it, it can't be that bad! However, I prefer using dilutions 'H' and 'G' to the 'B' you use. But I must admit I never tried re-using Hc-110 'B' the same time over and over, also on different days. That, I must admit, caught my attention. I might give it a try. Thanks, as always, for your upload.
I need to find a new go-to developer, I have been using Ilford ID-11 which I buy in the 5 litre packets and keep in a big plastic jerry can but it never lasts for very long and it goes off, apparently ID-11 is designed for use in labs or by frequent developers, but a roll of film could last me weeks or months unless it's for something specific! As a student I've never taken the plunge on HC-110 or Ilfotec HC because it's a lot of money for something I've never used before, I think Ilford LC29 might a good match for me, I don't know if you've ever used it. Thanks for another great video :)
Kenneth Wajda I developed some FP4 and Tri-x yesterday with ID-11 that was going slightly brown and they were both fine (1+1 dilution to minimise the excessive grain of off developer) so maybe it's only HP5, my most used film, that suffers, either way I'm definitely tempted to treat myself to some HC-110!
Hi Kenneth, another great common sense video. I have been thinking of moving to HC-110 (or at least Ilford's equivalent since I'm in the UK) because I don't develop that frequently. Seems like this will solve a lot of problems. I did try Rodinal but wasn't impressed with the results. However what do you do for paper dev assuming you do prints? Paper dev is another one of those chemicals I buy but it doesn't last long once opened (or even unopened for that matter). Thanks.
Are you using this "honey"-textured hc110 and dilute it from this or are you using the more watery kind of stuff? Hc110 is really great for everything. Aspecially for pushing!
A little history, if you please. At one time there were many hundreds of semi-automatic B&W film processing machines located in every drugstore, camera shop , and you name it. A cry went out to Kodak for a developer which would be easier and cheaper to use. Kodak said "Let there be HC-110." And so it came to pass, and it was good. Liquid concentrate replaced mixing up dry stock. Long storage life replaced a relatively short mixed life. Stability for extended use in machine processing was improved. Image quality? Similar to D-76 use straight stock in the machine. So, dust off your deep dunk processing machine and hit that HC-110. Or, use HC-110 for its usage convenience, but please do not praise its technical image superiority, "cause it ain't got any. HC-110 is just average, and that's not so bad, is it?
Update: On their website, Cinestill has a comparison display of image quality from their new monobath (Df96) and several popular B&W conventional developers. Two conclusions are driven home: (1) Their monobath is pretty good technically, and (2) HC-110 is the worse developer in the group used when comparing grain (its mushy), sharpness (its not). Good old D-76 comes out as the best of the group, but neither Xtol or Ifosol 3 were compared.
Sounds quick and easy, and you get good results. When I used to develop film, I used D76, acid stop bath, kodafix, I think, and kodak photoflo. Always used fresh chemicals, and results were always very good. Still have all the negatives, and they look good. The issue for me is that it all seems a little too involved now, and I really don't have the time and the patience, nor the wife's permission, to develop my own film, so the occasional roll of black and white film I shoot I have developed at the local photo lab. Like your results, though. Thanks for the information.
Thanks! Local labs need work, too!
I have been using D76 for a few years and wanted to try something else. Someone gave me some Ilfosol 3 super cheap. I think I like it I can't believe the difference in sharpness. I was looking for something that wouldn't smoothen out the grain.
I used to use D76 when I was younger.
Kenneth Wajda there is a reason why it is a standard because it is consistent and very versatile!
Ken, the reason D-76 is a "standard" by which other B&W developers are compared is because it is the standard reference developer officially adopted as such by the photo industry in the late 1930s. The status doesn't make it better or worse, just a reference.
Thank you for this video. Might you comment on what you consider to be best practice bleach for reversal processing of BW films intended for (motion picture) application. Generally, 12 ASA to say 50ASA.
I am familiar with 35mm BW negative process, totally UNfamikiar with reversal processing. I am strongly considering a suggested bleach of 3% HydPeroxide/15ml white Vinegar at 100-105degrees F.
Can it (above described bleach) really be effective ? Why so simple with other more widely known dichromate or permanganate sulfuric acid bleach?
These more toxic bleaches spray a much more vigorous action than seemingly wimpy household vinegar and wimpy 3%peroxide.
Your credentials form basis for my submission of the question. Looking forward to any reply thanks!
Speak not spray
I don't know chemistry that well. I used to use color developer and blix in a machine at the newspaper, which was very scary dangerous, and was a bleach fix mix I believe. I haven't done my own color, though I have a pack of Cinestill C41 chemicals here. I'm just a basic HC110 developer, water stop bath and Ilford Rapid Fix kind of guy.
@@kennethwajda wow a newspaper! I remember those! I happen to like the idea of one’s photographs being one’s own property, not at the whim of an end user license agreement. Your newspaper work likely had lots of copyright permutations.
I’d really like to hear anything you’d like to say about all that
down to my last bottle of hc-110, I have been thinking of venturing into the photographers cookbook of home made formulas. find out if it is a cost saver over current prices in the nj/ny area. I wondering if you are aware of any woodworking plans to build a view camera. Having the desire to make 3 for my nice & my 2 nephews. hopefully one of them picks up the torch and runs with it
The blue color of a pre-rinse is the anti-halation layer being washed off and has no impact of development
Good to know, thank you.
D-76 1:3 is usually my jam, but I also use rodinal for large format because of the high dilution and low cost. D-76 is not that a big commitment, you mix it and you're set for 10 rolls. You can even use it stock and put it back in the bottle, wonderful for pushing film.
The weird colour you got may be the anti-halation layers washing away. It does not have an effect on the development (but I usually rinse it away before Dev).
I don't like the weird color because then I don't feel as comfortable using it for extra rolls of film. But you're right about what's causing it!
I've been the same thing but with d-76, somewhere I read that it is possible if you dont dilute it... ive used the same d-76 for about 5 rolls now and seems to be working just fine.
I have been a longtime fan of Agfa Rodinal. But since I moved to Colombia, I soon realized the easier to find were Hc-110 and D76. Now, not liking D76 lifespan, I opted for the Hc-110. Other reason being, suggestions I received through a Flickr contact, Ralph Lundvall, a living encyclopedia when it comes to chemicals for film (he sent me a very handy excel spreadsheet with all pre-calculations on dilutions, ratio, etc. for use of Hc-110.)
It's now been approx. three years I almost exclusively use Hc-110, and am loving it more and more. Besides, if Ansel Adams used it, it can't be that bad!
However, I prefer using dilutions 'H' and 'G' to the 'B' you use. But I must admit I never tried re-using Hc-110 'B' the same time over and over, also on different days. That, I must admit, caught my attention. I might give it a try.
Thanks, as always, for your upload.
Matteo Prezioso hello, is there any chance you can share that spreadsheet with us??:)
Still wish I lived in Wheat Ridge... I'd be game for that Durst.
Sweet. That'd be right next door.
I need to find a new go-to developer, I have been using Ilford ID-11 which I buy in the 5 litre packets and keep in a big plastic jerry can but it never lasts for very long and it goes off, apparently ID-11 is designed for use in labs or by frequent developers, but a roll of film could last me weeks or months unless it's for something specific! As a student I've never taken the plunge on HC-110 or Ilfotec HC because it's a lot of money for something I've never used before, I think Ilford LC29 might a good match for me, I don't know if you've ever used it. Thanks for another great video :)
HC110 isn't that pricey and you get to use it a tiny bit at a time and it lasts forever, so there's that!
Kenneth Wajda I developed some FP4 and Tri-x yesterday with ID-11 that was going slightly brown and they were both fine (1+1 dilution to minimise the excessive grain of off developer) so maybe it's only HP5, my most used film, that suffers, either way I'm definitely tempted to treat myself to some HC-110!
I'm sorry if you already stated this or not but I'm a newbie at film. What fixer do you use?
Ilford Rapid Fix
Thank you so much. More people need to find your channel.
Hi Kenneth, another great common sense video. I have been thinking of moving to HC-110 (or at least Ilford's equivalent since I'm in the UK) because I don't develop that frequently. Seems like this will solve a lot of problems. I did try Rodinal but wasn't impressed with the results. However what do you do for paper dev assuming you do prints? Paper dev is another one of those chemicals I buy but it doesn't last long once opened (or even unopened for that matter). Thanks.
Are you using this "honey"-textured hc110 and dilute it from this or are you using the more watery kind of stuff?
Hc110 is really great for everything. Aspecially for pushing!
Honey type. Yep!
Kenneth Wajda Great! BTW the recipe of the hc110 is available in the Darkroom cookbook!
Hc110 lasts forever but the grain appearance, not so nice with Arista film, oh well.
that blue color is antihalation dye coming out that's normal
Good to know, thanks!
A little history, if you please. At one time there were many hundreds of semi-automatic B&W film processing machines located in every drugstore, camera shop , and you name it. A cry went out to Kodak for a developer which would be easier and cheaper to use. Kodak said "Let there be HC-110." And so it came to pass, and it was good. Liquid concentrate replaced mixing up dry stock. Long storage life replaced a relatively short mixed life. Stability for extended use in machine processing was improved. Image quality? Similar to D-76 use straight stock in the machine. So, dust off your deep dunk processing machine and hit that HC-110. Or, use HC-110 for its usage convenience, but please do not praise its technical image superiority, "cause it ain't got any. HC-110 is just average, and that's not so bad, is it?
Update: On their website, Cinestill has a comparison display of image quality from their new monobath (Df96) and several popular B&W conventional developers. Two conclusions are driven home: (1) Their monobath is pretty good technically, and (2) HC-110 is the worse developer in the group used when comparing grain (its mushy), sharpness (its not). Good old D-76 comes out as the best of the group, but neither Xtol or Ifosol 3 were compared.
All I got from the comments, that you gathered some folks preaching to the preachers