I just can't thank you enough for this video. I recently picked up a 1989 kx 500. Seemed to have no top end power . I looked up into the cylinder with the pipe off and immediately could tell there was an issue . Took top end off and apart and the power valves were installed correctly. Watched your videos and reassembled exactly how you did it and now it is running mint ! Thank you so much for the great detailed video! - JORDAN
You're a life saver, I didn't realize the exhaust valve should be loose while assembling, my clymer's manual says to tighten securely. This was a much easier method to use, thanks!
Great video man thanks! There are a lot of great write-ups on this, but it's so much easier to just play and pause a video then read and look at still pictures. Great work.
Found out my problem and fixed it. My Jug had a brand new "LA Sleeve Stock Insert" which was touching against the KIPS valve. This is a thick sleeve. I had to reshape the last flapper Kips valve so that it would not touch the sleeve. Also, my PINS had dents and were crushed on the tips (not round) from badly carbonized deposits that formed and prevented the kips valve from fully opening and closing. When I saw you pull the valves open and closed with your hands I knew I had a problem. Took me one day but starts up one kick now. Hope this confusion helps other KX owners. If you get a sleeve make sure the KIPS valves move freely and with your fingers.
Forgot to say thank you for all the info , i finished my top end and the clean powervalves got rid of my kickbacks and it now fires up on first kick when cold , thankz for taking the time to make the video , i also jetted it according to your video and it runs like a beast !!! I havent met a 4 stroke that can beat me yet !!!
Glad people are watching these videos ! I just got a Husky 701 enduro and for the first 5/8 throttle it can't hold a candle to the KX - after that the 701 really starts to blur the scenery.
+yellow72bronco Hopefully the doing becomes as simple as the viewing. I can tell you the Clymer manual is certainly confusing ! Good luck ! Just posted a new riding video out at Carnegie OHV
+Clark Rupp It went pretty well, the left drum took a couple efforts to time correctly so the open and close position worked perfectly. I'm waiting for more snow here in Upper Michigan, I put a Timbersled Mountainhorse Kit on the bike. This is a low hours 500, first rebuild and power valves were nasty!. Thx again for an informative Vid!!
Nice Video Clark on putting that clock work together! I picked up a 1990 KX 250 cheap which I thought would be a nice project over the winter. I was stripping the cylinder so that I could send it out to get relined. When I got to removing the KIPS components I was flying blind. I found your video AFTER I took it apart, but putting it together using your video should be much easier. I did damage some teeth on one valve when removing it but I hope you're right and that I can buy these new, because I just may replace them both? But I just wanted to comment that on the 90 KX 250, the markings on the valves for proper positioning when reassembly are little different. I didn't see any index punch mark over the teeth for proper alignment like you have, but what I did notice is what looks one tooth on each valve is milled lower so that you can notice this when you look like you did from the top down on the teeth. Now I just have to see how lucky I am buying new power valves. :)
Thanks ! I know the the 250's are a little different but at least the basics are here if you're totally lost. I'm sure there must be some stuff out there on the 250's though.....
@@clarkruppJust getting back to this but wanted to add some comments. First, I couldn't find a replacement right valve/drum so I ended up taking the right valve/drum to a local welder who was able to add some aluminium on the teeth I had broken off when taking the kips apart. I did have to refile the teeth that he added the aluminum to in order to build the teeth back up. He charged me $40. So with the teeth filed back into shape on the drum and it put back in place it seems to be operating fine. Another note i wanted to add for others is that OVEN CLEANER works great for cleaning the carbon off the valve and the drums. There is concern that oven cleaner may pit aluminium, but I didn't leave these parts soaking in it. I sprayed them and let them sit with the foam on them for 10 minutes at most and then took a scrub brush to them. Came out nice and clean. One thing not covered in your video is how the rack can only go in so far because it will bottom out when pushed in all the way on the plug that screws in from the other side.. It does this on my 1990 KX 250 anyway. So I had to put the plug in all the way, then make the rack hit that plug by pushing it in all the way to bottom it out or fully seat it. Then I could adjust the drums on the rack for proper opening/closing. It seems ok, but I'm not sure what/how the mechanism works that connect to the rack? I mean will it open the rack fully? Is the rack sitting at the right spot left to right? Again, it seems to work ok by hand but I won't know until I reconnect the fork that operates the rack.
thank you for uploading this video. i had some trouble with a kx 125 kips system, it is not exactly the same but the principle is the same. thanks again, greetings from Holland.
I noticed that when I pulled the little rod out the one on the right side of head, it doesn't want to go back in to close the valves. It only does it when the head is upside down. Is this normal?
+TheJonyman3 That happens (upside down) because the exhaust valve is falling out enough that the rod can slide past the timing gear. If you're doing that you've probably messed up the timing on that "far" valve.
From a performance standpoint its not a huge impact. Low end and throttle response are crisper. I was putting in a new piston and rings. Kawasaki recommends tearing down and cleaning after 50 hours or something like that. Of course nobody does....
Can the kips keep me from firing up easy ? I have a 93 kx500 with a starting problem it wont start unless i push start it even after warm its hard to start . What jettihg should i use ? Also what fuel ratio do u recommend
You can use any high quality synthetic 2 stroke oil. I mix at 50:1 Assuming you're within 1,500 feet of sea level I would recommend a 55 or 58 pilot jet and a 168 main. Needle 2nd from the top. The bike won't start because its too lean. To richen it up check your pilot jet and once warmed up turn in your air screw on the carburetor and until the engine won't idle and back it out 1/2 turn. I also have to put the bike on its side to overflow the carb floats to get raw fuel into the cylinder for cold starts. Keep the throttle closed with the choke on. Should fire up in three manly kicks.
Hey clark i got 120 psi so im installing new top end. I get some kickbacks , what you suppose that is am i just bieng too scared ? Also im thinking of a decompresiion valve what do u think
Clark Rupp when its time to install the governor arm back on to the kips what position does the rod that travels in and out have to be ? Does it have to be all out or all In . I notice theres spring tension on the governor . I really need help on this part .
The arm "pin" rides in the groove and valve timing rod is positioned based on rpm. When putting on the cover just make sure the arm is in the groove. the in and out part will take of itself......
@@clarkrupp hi Clark, this is basically the same question I had in my post. It sounds like the governor will adjust to the closed position on the rack?
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I just can't thank you enough for this video. I recently picked up a 1989 kx 500. Seemed to have no top end power . I looked up into the cylinder with the pipe off and immediately could tell there was an issue . Took top end off and apart and the power valves were installed correctly. Watched your videos and reassembled exactly how you did it and now it is running mint ! Thank you so much for the great detailed video!
- JORDAN
Got to keep these old bikes running !
You're a life saver, I didn't realize the exhaust valve should be loose while assembling, my clymer's manual says to tighten securely. This was a much easier method to use, thanks!
Great video man thanks! There are a lot of great write-ups on this, but it's so much easier to just play and pause a video then read and look at still pictures. Great work.
Thanks Ryan, We gotta keep these old bikes going !
I'm working on a 1991 kx250 and the kips system is the same and you gave great detail thanks for video.
2 kx500, 2002 year. You just helped me. I cleaned off the dots ..badly carbonized. The ring around the right side saved me pain. Thanks again.
I figured if I was having a hard time trying to find good detailed info on this others would too. Glad it helped you out
Found out my problem and fixed it. My Jug had a brand new "LA Sleeve Stock Insert" which was touching against the KIPS valve. This is a thick sleeve. I had to reshape the last flapper Kips valve so that it would not touch the sleeve. Also, my PINS had dents and were crushed on the tips (not round) from badly carbonized deposits that formed and prevented the kips valve from fully opening and closing. When I saw you pull the valves open and closed with your hands I knew I had a problem. Took me one day but starts up one kick now. Hope this confusion helps other KX owners. If you get a sleeve make sure the KIPS valves move freely and with your fingers.
Forgot to say thank you for all the info , i finished my top end and the clean powervalves got rid of my kickbacks and it now fires up on first kick when cold , thankz for taking the time to make the video , i also jetted it according to your video and it runs like a beast !!! I havent met a 4 stroke that can beat me yet !!!
Glad people are watching these videos ! I just got a Husky 701 enduro and for the first 5/8 throttle it can't hold a candle to the KX - after that the 701 really starts to blur the scenery.
Many thanks for your video.
I have just brought a bike with this engine , will be relying on this handy video to strip and rebuild the old girl!
Good luck !
Thx for posting, doing the top end of my '00 KX 500 right now and this makes reassembly of the power valves look simple. Cheers!
+yellow72bronco Hopefully the doing becomes as simple as the viewing. I can tell you the Clymer manual is certainly confusing ! Good luck ! Just posted a new riding video out at Carnegie OHV
+Clark Rupp It went pretty well, the left drum took a couple efforts to time correctly so the open and close position worked perfectly. I'm waiting for more snow here in Upper Michigan, I put a Timbersled Mountainhorse Kit on the bike. This is a low hours 500, first rebuild and power valves were nasty!. Thx again for an informative Vid!!
Thank you for the video!! Currently rebuilding my kx500 right now, video was on point!
what a great job you did !!! explaining everything in detail , Excellent work my friend , really appreciated:)
Awesome video, perfect word for word and broke down to the T,,,, helped me alot thank you
Una maravilla de vídeo
Estoy restaurando una kx250 del 91 y más o menos se como va pero con tu vídeo me queda muy claro como funciona .un saludo 👋
Great video! Its the same system on the kdx 250 helped alot!
thanks vor the Video.i have build it this morning,< and i cant belive how the bad power!!blody two stroke forever!!!
Amazing video, thank you!
Bomb-Track, You Rock!
Excellent Video
Nice Video Clark on putting that clock work together! I picked up a 1990 KX 250 cheap which I thought would be a nice project over the winter. I was stripping the cylinder so that I could send it out to get relined. When I got to removing the KIPS components I was flying blind. I found your video AFTER I took it apart, but putting it together using your video should be much easier. I did damage some teeth on one valve when removing it but I hope you're right and that I can buy these new, because I just may replace them both?
But I just wanted to comment that on the 90 KX 250, the markings on the valves for proper positioning when reassembly are little different. I didn't see any index punch mark over the teeth for proper alignment like you have, but what I did notice is what looks one tooth on each valve is milled lower so that you can notice this when you look like you did from the top down on the teeth. Now I just have to see how lucky I am buying new power valves. :)
Thanks ! I know the the 250's are a little different but at least the basics are here if you're totally lost. I'm sure there must be some stuff out there on the 250's though.....
@@clarkruppJust getting back to this but wanted to add some comments. First, I couldn't find a replacement right valve/drum so I ended up taking the right valve/drum to a local welder who was able to add some aluminium on the teeth I had broken off when taking the kips apart. I did have to refile the teeth that he added the aluminum to in order to build the teeth back up. He charged me $40. So with the teeth filed back into shape on the drum and it put back in place it seems to be operating fine.
Another note i wanted to add for others is that OVEN CLEANER works great for cleaning the carbon off the valve and the drums. There is concern that oven cleaner may pit aluminium, but I didn't leave these parts soaking in it. I sprayed them and let them sit with the foam on them for 10 minutes at most and then took a scrub brush to them. Came out nice and clean.
One thing not covered in your video is how the rack can only go in so far because it will bottom out when pushed in all the way on the plug that screws in from the other side.. It does this on my 1990 KX 250 anyway.
So I had to put the plug in all the way, then make the rack hit that plug by pushing it in all the way to bottom it out or fully seat it. Then I could adjust the drums on the rack for proper opening/closing.
It seems ok, but I'm not sure what/how the mechanism works that connect to the rack? I mean will it open the rack fully? Is the rack sitting at the right spot left to right? Again, it seems to work ok by hand but I won't know until I reconnect the fork that operates the rack.
thank you for uploading this video.
i had some trouble with a kx 125 kips system, it is not exactly the same but the principle is the same.
thanks again, greetings from Holland.
Great video thankyou..
Excellent tutorial!!
Very helpful. Thankyou!
Dont need to do this with my CR500, but it will come in handy for my '97 KX500.
Has anyone tried polishing ot coating these for easy cleaning?
I noticed that when I pulled the little rod out the one on the right side of head, it doesn't want to go back in to close the valves. It only does it when the head is upside down. Is this normal?
+TheJonyman3 That happens (upside down) because the exhaust valve is falling out enough that the rod can slide past the timing gear. If you're doing that you've probably messed up the timing on that "far" valve.
What kind of issues were you having lat led you to want to pull these and clean them out?
From a performance standpoint its not a huge impact. Low end and throttle response are crisper. I was putting in a new piston and rings. Kawasaki recommends tearing down and cleaning after 50 hours or something like that. Of course nobody does....
respect
What fuel oil ratio do you mix?
50:1 synthetic…. Could go leaner to 80:1 for easy woods riding.
Can the kips keep me from firing up easy ? I have a 93 kx500 with a starting problem it wont start unless i push start it even after warm its hard to start . What jettihg should i use ? Also what fuel ratio do u recommend
You can use any high quality synthetic 2 stroke oil. I mix at 50:1 Assuming you're within 1,500 feet of sea level I would recommend a 55 or 58 pilot jet and a 168 main. Needle 2nd from the top. The bike won't start because its too lean. To richen it up check your pilot jet and once warmed up turn in your air screw on the carburetor and until the engine won't idle and back it out 1/2 turn. I also have to put the bike on its side to overflow the carb floats to get raw fuel into the cylinder for cold starts. Keep the throttle closed with the choke on. Should fire up in three manly kicks.
Hey clark i got 120 psi so im installing new top end. I get some kickbacks , what you suppose that is am i just bieng too scared ? Also im thinking of a decompresiion valve what do u think
Clark Rupp when its time to install the governor arm back on to the kips what position does the rod that travels in and out have to be ? Does it have to be all out or all In . I notice theres spring tension on the governor . I really need help on this part .
The arm "pin" rides in the groove and valve timing rod is positioned based on rpm. When putting on the cover just make sure the arm is in the groove. the in and out part will take of itself......
@@clarkrupp hi Clark, this is basically the same question I had in my post. It sounds like the governor will adjust to the closed position on the rack?